coach every moment; at five, however, the vittureno came to state that
one of his passengers was taken very ill, and could not proceed, and
that he must defer going until the next day, when he hoped the gentleman
would be able to set off. This was provoking, and we could not help
doubting the truth of the story, but on sending our servant to the
gentleman’s lodgings, he returned with a confirmation, and we thought
best to acquiesce. We made him sign, however, a yet stronger obligation,
by which we were empowered, if he did not set off on the Wednesday, to
take post-horses at his expense. We kept very close to-day, not wishing
to be laughed at by our friends; in the evening, however, we walked down
to the mole, amongst the shipping, where we saw an embarkation of horses
for the Austrian army in Sicily; and a Neapolitan seventy-four-gun-ship,
the Capri, secured to the wharf, and near to the remains of another
seventy-four-gun-ship, the St. Ferdinand, which, a short time before had
taken fire, and been burned down to the water’s edge.
We felt a strong inclination to avail ourselves of this last evening
to visit the magnificent theatre of San Carlos, which had only very
lately been opened; but the advantage of retiring early to bed, in
order to prepare for our journey on the morrow, induced us to forego
the gratification. I had, however, lately been to the Il Fondo, which
some prefer to the larger theatre, as its size is better adapted to give
effect to the performances. As, however, I could not understand the
language, the music alone interested me; but this was indeed exquisite,
and fully sufficient to afford the most heart-touching gratification. It
was of that kind which
“Thrills through imagination’s tender frame
From nerve to nerve: all naked and alive
They catch the spreading rays: till now the soul
At length discloses every tuneful spring,
To that harmonious movement from without
Responsive. Then the inexpressive strain
Diffuses its enchantment: Fancy dreams
Of sacred fountains and Elysian groves,
And vales of bliss: the intellectual power
Bends from his awful throne a wondering ear,
And smiles: the passions, gently sooth’d away,
Sink to divine repose, and love and joy
Alone are waking; love and joy serene
As airs that fan the summer.”—AKENSIDE.
CHAP. XXII.
JOURNEY FROM NAPLES TO ROME AND FLORENCE.
At length, on Wednesday the 13th of June, we commenced our journey from
Naples, although not without much insolence and altercation on the part
of the vittureno, with respect to our fare; we finally settled this, by
agreeing to pay six dollars each for our conveyance, dinners and beds
included; which, as we were to occupy four days on the journey, was not
unreasonable.
We had, however, to provide our own breakfasts, for which purpose we
took with us the requisite materials for one in the English fashion and
in particular a supply of butter, an article which is rarely to be met
with in travelling through this country; even the bread is not always
eatable, as the corn of which it is made, is thrashed out by horses or
oxen trampling upon it, and then gathered up with not a little of the
accompanying dirt, and which they are not always careful to purify it
from, before sending it to the mill.
The innkeepers on the road, however, looked shy at our travelling
provisions; but contrived, whenever they supplied us with eggs or milk,
to make us pay exorbitantly for them.
We set off in company with the voiture for which we had delayed our
journey on the Monday, but did not get clear of Naples before seven
o’clock; after which we breakfasted at Capua, and reached St. Agatha in
the evening; at the latter place we witnessed a violent quarrel between
two Austrian officers, which however was carried through with the same
weapons that it commenced with—their tongues.
Before setting off in the morning, we were informed that the courier
from Rome to Naples, had been obliged to return to Mola on the previous
night, to procure a stronger escort, in consequence of intelligence from
a peasant, that he was way-laid by a band of thirteen robbers, near
the spot where Mrs. A⸺’s carriage had been attempted at the time of my
journey to Naples. On our way, we observed a number of sledges loaded
with hay, and which were similar to those used for travelling over the
snow in North America. We breakfasted at Mola, and arrived at Terracina
about eight in the evening, after a considerable detention at Fondi,
by custom-house officers, and which was repeated on entering the papal
territories; throughout the Neapolitan states, we passed numerous parties
of Austrian soldiers posted on the road.
At Terracina our passports were again examined, but we avoided the
inspection of baggage by getting the trunks leaded with the custom-house
stamps; and afterwards, unexpectedly escaped inspection at Rome, in
consequence of one of our party having had the precaution to write for a
lascia passare. This gentleman was the person whose illness had detained
us a day longer in Naples; and which, after we came to know him, we had
no cause to regret, as he proved a most agreeable gentlemanly companion.
Major le Chevalier de S⸺, was gentleman of the chamber, and aid-de-camp
to the king of Denmark; and we had afterwards the gratification of a
considerable intercourse with him. It is singular that many years before,
I should have had the pleasure of waiting upon his father, who was
governor of St. Thomas’s at the time I visited that island in a British
frigate.
On Friday the 15th, the morning being fine, we walked several miles by
the side of the voiture, until our driver found it necessary to push
on faster. After this we arrived for breakfast, in the middle of the
Pontine marshes, where we were put into an apartment only fit for the
accommodation of cattle, and congratulated ourselves in being provided
with our own breakfast. The afternoon proved cold and wet. At seven
o’clock we reached Veletri, where from our bed-room windows might be seen
extensive views over the Pontine marshes, reaching as far as Terracina.
On Saturday, we arrived at Albano for breakfast, when my friend C⸺ walked
to the lake, to view the famous tunnel constructed by the ancient Romans,
to convey water by a magnificent aqueduct to Rome. At three o’clock in
the afternoon we arrived at the latter city; at the gates whereof Major
S⸺ found his lascia passare which enabled us to proceed without delay
to C⸺’s old lodgings, where we not only met with accommodations for
ourselves, but also for Major S⸺, who was induced to attach himself to
our party: after securing this point, we dined together at the Armellino.
We spent only three days in the, now comparatively deserted, city of
Rome; during which time we occupied ourselves, chiefly, in preparations
for our journey to Florence, and purchasing little articles of mosaic,
&c. for our friends. The only time devoted to _vertu_, was on the Monday,
when we accompanied Major S⸺ to Count Therwaston’s collection of statues.
In one room, in order to ascertain whether I knew the difference, my
friends placed my hand on the leg of a living man, put into a posture
for having a mould taken from him, and this without apprising me that it
consisted of animate, instead of inanimate nature. In this collection,
amongst others, were busts of Lord Byron, and the crown prince and
princess of Denmark.
On Tuesday the 19th, we took our departure from Rome for Florence, by
way of Perrugia, at six o’clock in the morning. When we had proceeded
about sixteen miles, before descending a hill for Baccano, my friends had
a last view of this once famous, and yet interesting city. Besides Mr.
C⸺, and Major S⸺, and myself, our voiture contained a Prussian medical
officer, a very intelligent agreeable gentleman, and a member of the
regency, who had travelled in our consort voiture from Naples, and with
whom we had in consequence, a previous acquaintance, so that we were as
comfortable as if we had occupied our own carriage, although we had to
pay only ten dollars each for a seven days’ journey, supper and beds
included.
We breakfasted at Baccano, contrary to the wish of our driver, which we
afterwards regretted that we did not comply with, as, according to his
representation, we found a most insolent unaccommodating landlord. After
this, we passed over Monte Rosi, through the deserted looking town of
Nepi, and arrived at Civita Castellana between seven and eight in the
evening. In the course of this afternoon, we passed a beautiful female on
horseback, riding after the fashion of men.
After sleeping at Civita Castellana, where our supper and bed were both
intolerably bad, we recommenced our journey at day-break, and passed
through Borghetto, when we crossed the Tiber at _Ponte Felice_, a stately
bridge, built by the popes Sextus V. and Clement VIII. upon the ruins of
the old and magnificent one of Augustus.
From hence we proceeded to Otricoli and Narsi. At noon, we reached the
once celebrated city of Terni, anciently Interamnia, which, however, has
now only to boast of its former greatness, and of having given birth to
Tacitus the historian, and the emperors Tacitus and Florian. After a
hasty breakfast, we engaged a small open carriage, and went to _view_
the falls of the Velino, distant about five miles. This river, formed by
various streams and mountain torrents, from the Appennines, flows quietly
for some miles, along a nearly level plain, which at length terminates in
one precipitous fall of three hundred feet in depth, exclusive of minor
ones, one of which is two hundred, and another eighty feet perpendicular;
over these, the stream rushes with tremendous force, dashing upon the
rocky bed below with such violence, that a vast cloud of watery smoke is
raised around it, and which, to the eye of the spectator placed above,
appears to throw the bottom into profundity. From this point, the river
runs foaming over a rocky bed, successively tumbling over the minor
precipices, until shortly afterwards, it finishes its course in the Nera.
This grand and romantic spectacle will be best witnessed from below, to
which a guide should be taken to conduct you, by a narrow steep footway,
the carriage returning and awaiting your arrival at the termination of
the falls; there will be however, a considerable distance to walk.
We did not return to Terni before five o’clock, when, at the instance
of our driver, although contrary to my own inclinations, my companions
were induced to drive on to Spoletto, to accomplish which journey, we had
an additional horse for the first post, and afterwards a pair of oxen
attached to our voiture, to enable us to ascend to Mount Somma, said
to be two thousand feet in height; it was, however, too dark to see,
from this elevated spot, the delightful scenery around it, and over the
beautiful plains of Terni, which we had just quitted, and Clitumnus, on
which we were entering.
At ten o’clock, we arrived at Spoletto, which appeared to be a fine
ancient town, with a beautiful cathedral, fountains, and other public
buildings. The inhabitants are not a little proud of their city having
held out against Hannibal, when he besieged it, after his signal defeat
of the Romans at Thrasymene.
At Spoletto we had a comfortable bed and supper, in comparison to
what we enjoyed the preceding night, when we were unfortunate enough
to be anticipated by a large party of English ladies, attended by
one gentleman; and I suppose we should have been placed in the same
situation, throughout our journey, had not the latter been taken so
seriously ill at Terni, as to be unable to proceed.
On Thursday, we set out with day-light; breakfasted at Foligno, and
reached Perrugia at nine in the evening, between which places, the road
turns off on the right for Lorretto, Ancona, and Venice. On our arrival,
it was so cold, that, notwithstanding, we were in the centre of Italy at
Midsummer, it was necessary to order a fire; indeed the sensation was so
urgent, that, I believe, had we been compelled to give up this or our
supper, the latter would have been abandoned. Perrugia is situated on
very elevated ground, so that we were obliged to call in the assistance
of a couple of oxen, for the last hour, to drag us up to it, and had
experienced cold heavy rain throughout the greater part of the day. In
the course of the afternoon, we were rather surprised at having once more
to cross the Tiber.
The following morning was exceedingly cold as we left Perrugia, but as
the day advanced, and we descended into a more champaign country, the day
became finer, as well as comfortably warm. We now, after passing through
the village of Torricelli, arrived at the borders of the renowned lake
of Thrasymene, where we travelled by its side, along a tolerably level
road, through Passignano, from whence we passed over a small plain to
Borghetto, the lake being constantly on our left, and the Appennine
mountains surrounding this plain on our right.
“It was in the centre of this plain, that Hannibal encamped at the head
of the African and Spanish troops; the Baleares, and the light-armed
forces, he placed on the recesses of the mountains all around, while his
cavalry were commissioned to occupy a defile in rear of the Romans, as
soon as they had passed through it. The consul entered by Borghetto, with
his characteristic rashness and impetuosity, and hastened to attack the
army which he beheld in front; when a sudden shout bursting all around,
informed him that he was beset on all sides; a thick mist rising from the
lake, darkened the air; noise, confusion, dismay, defeat, and slaughter,
immediately followed.”
We breakfasted at Casa del Piano, and after the various ceremonies of
entering the Tuscan territories, reached Castiglione Fiorentino at half
after seven in the evening. This is a beautiful village, and we could not
avoid contrasting, as I believe all other travellers do, the appearance
of the country and people, with the Roman states. We had a good supper,
and some excellent wine of Monte Pulciano, and moreover, the felicity of
being waited upon by a neat, interesting young female.
On the following morning, as we were preparing to depart, we found our
fair attendant had laid out a breakfast of coffee, &c., in so clean and
inviting a manner, that we could not resist breaking through our usual
custom of travelling a stage before we took breakfast. We found it so
good, compared to what we had for some days been accustomed to, that
we could not refrain from loudly expressing our preference of Tuscany.
After this repast, we felt inclined for walking, and as the morning was
delightful, Major S⸺ and myself, accompanied our voiture in this way for
ten miles, until, near Arezzo, the inconvenience of several droves of
cattle, intended for a fair at that place, induced us to re-enter the
carriage. At this place, we regretted parting from Major S⸺, who left us
for Sienna, promising however to rejoin us in a few days at Florence,
where, he said, he had a brother, belonging to the Danish navy, with whom
he should be happy to make us acquainted.
It was at this town that a monk, named Guido l’Aretino, in the eleventh
century, first invented the present scale of musical notes. Our vittureno
did not appear in haste to leave it, because he was desirous of picking
up, if possible, a couple of passengers, to fill the now vacant places of
Major S⸺ and his servant. This gave us nearly three hours to explore the
place, which we found a pretty large and pleasing town.
At eleven we set out again, when just out of town, our driver took up a
female into the cabriolet, accompanied by a man, probably her husband,
who afterwards kept up with the carriage on foot, all the way to
Florence. After passing through a variety of towns and villages, at nine
in the evening, we reached the village of Piano, where we stopped at the
post-house. On the following morning, Sunday the 24th, we left Piano at
four o’clock, and after travelling through a very hilly country for four
hours, got upon a fine plain, which carried us to the gates of Florence,
where we arrived about ten o’clock, and having the custom-house stamps on
our luggage, were only detained to inspect the passports, after which we
proceeded directly to my old quarters, the house of Madame Hembert.
Having now travelled between Florence and Rome, both by way of Sienna
and Perrugia, I feel in some degree competent to give an opinion of the
comparative advantages of each route. It is almost worth while, to pass
once by the former, to enjoy the luxury of returning by the latter, the
roads and accommodations of which are so infinitely superior. The way
by Sienna may answer very well to do penance upon, and I know no other
_sentimental_ consideration which would induce a man to undertake it a
second time. It is true, by Perrugia, the distance is more than fifty
miles greater, but notwithstanding, the journey maybe completed in quite
as short a space of time.
CHAP. XXIII.
FLORENCE—AND JOURNEY TO MILAN.
Madame Hembert of the Pension de Suisse, is a most pleasant and attentive
woman, and so well calculated for her situation, that her house has
been, for some time, a favourite resort of the visitors to this city.
Finding it too small to accommodate her friends, she had, just before our
arrival, taken a magnificent palace, called the Maladura, delightfully
situated on the banks of the Arno, which she was now busily occupied
in removing to. As it was not the most agreeable thing in the world,
to reside in the midst of so confused a scene, we determined to take
lodgings for the week of our proposed stay in Florence. While we were
meditating this arrangement, who should we meet but Mr. F⸺, a gentleman
to whom I was greatly indebted for various kind attentions at Rome, and
who instantly proposed that we should place ourselves in the same house,
where he himself lodged. This was so agreeable to our inclinations, that
we requested him immediately to make the necessary arrangements, and
on the following morning took possession of our rooms, situated in the
Strada Mal-Aurange.
After this, my friend wished to see a race contested by horses without
riders, but we found the ground so wet and uncomfortable, that we
returned without waiting for the exhibition; which I was far from
regretting, as I know no species of amusement, that, in my present
situation, would have less interested me; nor was it novel to my friend.
We dined at a trattoria’s, after which I had the pleasure of accidentally
meeting, at the library, with Mr. F⸺, with whom I had sailed in the
felucca, from Nice, and was also introduced to Mr. H⸺, the gentleman whom
I before mentioned, as having travelled with the French merchant, who
threw himself into the crater of Vesuvius.
Florence is said to owe its origin to a Roman colony, composed of
selected veterans from Cæsar’s legions; but in its modern state, you
would scarcely imagine it the offspring of the camp; for its whole
appearance bespeaks gentility, and its inhabitants are possessed of
so courteous an air, that we cannot wonder it should be selected by
our countrymen, as a residence preferable to every other in Italy. The
society, both among the natives and foreigners is excellent; and the
city abounds with literary institutions, and museums of natural history,
and the fine arts. Good houses are easily procured, and provisions and
necessaries of all kinds abundant and cheap.
The town itself, both as relates to its public and private buildings,
is not only handsome, but in many respects magnificent, and the streets
spacious and well paved. It is justly entitled to its appellation of _La
bella Fiorenza_. The only fault attached to it, in my opinion, is its
climate; beyond this nothing is wanting.
The week which we passed in this delightful capital flew away with
rapidity, and left behind it the impressions of a magic dream; indeed we
found ourselves under a state something similar to fascination, so that
the longer we remained, the more agreeable its pleasures and society
became; and the more enjoyment we partook of, the more appeared to remain
unenjoyed. The most prudent plan which suggested itself, was to engage
places in a voiture beforehand, for a fixed day, by which means we should
find ourselves compelled to depart.
I can scarcely particularize all our employment in the interim, which
was devoted to utility as well as amusement. We spent our mornings at
the studios, museums, churches, &c.; the afternoon, in the society of
the many friends whom we found here. On the Tuesday evening there was a
grand procession in the _piazza del duomo_, or square of the cathedral, a
large open place well paved with flag-stones; after which we attempted to
visit the large theatre, called the Pergola, but were disappointed, as
the house was full in every part, in consequence of the performance being
for the benefit of their principal actor David, whose father, an old man
of seventy-five, and long since retired from the stage, came forward to
sing on the occasion. We were the more concerned at the disappointment,
as it was certain that we should have no future night to appropriate to
the same purpose.
Friday was St. Peter’s day, and observed as a grand fête, although with
nothing like the magnificence displayed at Rome, where it is considered,
next to Easter, the grandest festival of the year: the church of St.
Peter’s is at the latter place illuminated on this occasion, and an old
bronze figure of the saint dressed up in papal robes, decorated with
immense numbers of diamonds; they are obliged, however, to protect him
with soldiers, lest some of his worshippers should carry their zeal so
far, as to endeavour to appropriate these ornaments for their private
devotions.
On Saturday we paid our last visit to the celebrated gallery of Florence;
but it must not be expected, that I can detail the various statues, and
other curiosities, which this museum of the fine arts contains: was I
to make the attempt, it would only embrace a repetition of what former
travellers have largely, and perhaps many of them tediously, detailed.
Of course the Venus di Medici was the first object of our attention;
but I must candidly confess, that I would prefer the possession of a
plain amiable countrywoman of my own, whose mind I could admire, to this
paragon of beauty, or all the Venuses, animate or inanimate, which Italy
possesses. Not but that I am willing to profess myself fully sensible to
the magic of beauty, and to admit that Italy possesses its share, as well
as many amiable and estimable women; notwithstanding the manners, habits,
and system of education, of the country is generally unpropitious to
their production.
After the Venus, we were introduced to the Whetter, the Wrestler, the
Dancing Fawn, the little Apollo, the flying Mercury, and the unhappy
family of Niobe; as well as various others, whose names I cannot remember.
Before leaving Florence, I found it necessary to get a new passport
from our ambassador; the old one having been filled up at every point
with signs and countersigns, until the original writing was nearly lost
in the midst of marginal additions, as well as unintelligible from the
length of service it had undergone. After getting the new passport
from our ambassador, it was necessary to procure the signatures of two
departments of the police, the pope’s legate (to pass through a part of
the Roman states,) the Austrian, Piedmontese ambassadors, and also the
agent of the Swiss cantons, in expectation of getting through all these
states without farther trouble; but our expectations in this respect were
not realized; for they always contrive, in large towns, to create some
necessity or other for additional signatures.