best possible motives, recommended me to the care of the passengers
and conducteur, but which I must admit I would rather have declined,
as it disarmed me of that independence I wished to feel; I fancied it
was placing me in the light of a school-boy; or perhaps of a package of
“_Glass.—Keep this side uppermost._” I would prefer being treated with
the little ceremony of a woolpack, which by its accommodating elasticity,
not only avoids injury from slighter contact, but under more decided
and ruder pressure, becomes so solid, so confirmed, so compact, as
effectually to oppose additional restraint, and probably at length by its
innate powers, to throw off the superincumbent weight, and immediately
regain its original state; in short, I find less difficulty, and
inconvenience, in travelling amongst strangers, than people imagine, and
prefer being left to my own resources; habit has given me the power of
acquiring, by a kind of undefinable tact, as correct ideas of objects as
the most accurate descriptions would give; and unbiassed by the opinions
of others, I feel more facility in forming my estimates of human nature.
After an unpleasant journey, owing to the heat of the weather and fulness
of the coach, and passing through the neat town of Lunelle, famous for
its wines, we arrived about noon at Nismes, where I took up my residence
at a traiteur’s, in a particularly airy situation near the esplanade;
this situation I felt of importance, as from its position on an extensive
plain, this city suffers intolerably from the heats of summer.
On the following day, being Sunday, I attended divine service at one of
the Protestant churches, in company with Mrs. and Miss L⸺, with whom
I had previously been acquainted at Toulouse and Montpellier; we were
shewn into the corporation seat, and I am afraid gave much trouble to its
proper occupiers, who, with great politeness, incommoded themselves to
accommodate us. We were much pleased with the discourse of the preacher,
as well as the indications of devotion on the part of the congregation.
Nismes abounds with Protestants, who indeed constitute a large
proportion of its more industrious and opulent population; a circumstance
to which the sanguinary political scenes, of which it has so frequently
been the theatre, are to be attributed. The Roman religion has
undoubtedly a tendency to check the energetic industry of its professors,
by the encouragement which its numerous fêtes give to habits of
amusement, idleness, and dissipation; and, alas! it is too correspondent
with the dispositions of fallen human nature, for rapine and fraud to
spring out of such vitiated soil, and avail themselves of the advantages
attained by honest industry.
But far be it from me, to decry the importance of religious observances,
and rational relaxation from the toils of suffering humanity; or to
throw the least censure on that admirable and divine institution, which,
according to our admired Spectator, rubs off the rust of the preceding
week, and leads the poor man to a close acquaintance with his best
friend. The institutions of catholicism, or rather papalism, are in
this respect essentially contradictory to the divine command, which has
solemnly declared, amidst the awful denunciations of Mount Sinai,—“Six
days shalt thou labour; but the seventh day is the sabbath of the Lord
thy God;” for who of its more strict professors does not pay as much
religious observance to the fifth day, as to the one indicated by the
merciful Creator.
While at Nismes, my ancle proved extremely painful, and I felt otherwise
indisposed, so as to be incapable for a time of taking my usual walks;
I was, in consequence, induced to consult a French apothecary, who had
talked me into a favourable opinion of his skill, by expatiating, in what
I considered a philosophical way, upon the virtues of his medicines.
I was, consequently, placed upon a course of _ptisan refraichissant_,
without which French practice would be at a loss, but which, begging the
pardon of this French Æsculapius, although it might do very well in mild
cases, I should be loath to intrust my safety to in a desperate one,
where nature might possibly want urging forward, or severe correction,
rather than treating with such a complaisance; so much for my smattering
of physic: but, notwithstanding, I must do my _apoticaire_ the justice
to admit, that with the aid of his ptisan, and other means, I was in a
few days sufficiently improved to be able to resume, in some measure, my
customary walks.
Nismes, originally the Nemausum of the Romans, is a city of considerable
antiquity, of which sufficient remains are still to be found, to attest
its former grandeur.
I visited some of these august remains, particularly the celebrated
amphitheatre, built in the Tuscan order, of such size as to have been
capable of containing twenty thousand spectators. It is considered one
of the finest monuments of antiquity, and has survived the ravages of
nearly twenty centuries. I had also that exquisite piece of Corinthian
architecture described to me, now termed the _Maison Quarrée_, which
exhibits some of the most beautiful specimens of architecture still
existing, and which had been supposed by many to have been built by the
Emperor Hadrian, a great benefactor to this city, but by an inscription,
discoverable to that effect, is now proved to have been erected by the
good people of Nismes in honour of the two young princes, Caius and
Lucius Cæsar, grandsons of Augustus, by his daughter Julia, the wife of
Agrippa.
A number of peculiar large square basins, which the common people use
to bathe in, are to be seen at Nismes, near the public walk named the
_Coursè_; they are placed at equal distances from each other, and formed
by enlargements of a canal that runs through them, the water supplying
which, issues from under the rock on which the castle stands; after
passing through these reservoirs, the stream is conducted, by pipes and
smaller canals, throughout the town, and converted to different purposes
of economy and manufacture.
Anxious for the benefit I expected to derive from the waters of Aix,
I hastened my departure from Nismes on the 11th of July. I had only
a single companion in the diligence, an interesting young student of
seventeen or eighteen years of age, on his way from college to meet some
friends at Beaucaire, and as highly delighted with his emancipation from
scholastic trammels, as a young midshipman at going on shore after a
long cruise. At one place we took a glass of liqueur together, and on
my offering to pay for it, he laughed at me, and said I was joking. At
eight o’clock we reached Beaucaire, where he left me. At this place great
preparations were making for the annual fair, which lasts about three
weeks, and is of much importance, as merchants attend it from all parts
of Europe.
We here crossed the Rhone on a bridge of boats, and proceeded through
Tarrascon. At midnight we stopped for supper, when a cold chicken being
produced, the conducteur contrived to dispose, with great celerity, of
the larger part of it, leaving only a leg and wing for my share; after
this, a most exorbitant demand was made upon me, being charged with the
whole fowl, and the bottle of wine, although I had only shared a couple
of glasses of the latter; but following the example of my young friend
the student, I joked them into reason, and offering half the money, they
thought proper to be contented with it. I am convinced, from experience,
that this is a better mode, than arguing a point of charge passionately
with a French innkeeper; hear with patience his torrent of explanation,
and then putting on your gloves coolly, reply with a smile, “I dare say
you are right, my good friend, but I make it a rule never to pay so
much, and cannot do it now.” Above all, take care that you do not, like
Smollet, give a louis to change, and then ask them what you have to pay;
first, get your change, and then only part with your gold. But the best
way of all to prevent disputes, is to make a bargain beforehand.
About seven in the evening I arrived at Aix, and had the pleasure of
meeting my friend Mr. W⸺, with a brother of his, lately arrived from
England, and also some of my fair countrywomen, with whom I had been
acquainted at Toulouse, and who had passed me at Montpellier.
CHAP. VIII.
AIX—MARSEILLES.
Mr. W⸺ pressed me to take up my residence at Aix with himself and his
brother, but I was still too anxious to pursue my studies of the French
language, and character, amongst the natives, to accept of his offer;
notwithstanding, it was impossible that I could have been placed more
satisfactorily to my feelings; his general information and good sense,
highly qualified him to impart knowledge, and his uncommon urbanity of
manners, made it particularly delightful to receive it from him.
“How much in every state man owes
To what kind courtesy bestows,
To that benign engaging art,
Which decorates the human heart;
To every act it gives a grace,
And adds a smile to every face;
E’en goodness ’self we better see,
When drest by gentle courtesy.”
I availed myself, however, of my friend’s kindness, until I succeeded
in procuring accommodations in a French family, accustomed to receive
students in the law _en pension_. These gentlemen, however, only made
their appearance at meal-times, nor did the resident family associate
with us according to my expectation; I felt disappointed, and after
staying ten days determined to change my quarters.
It was not easy to find a family like that of the Countess de M⸺, at
Montpellier, particularly at this season, when every one who could afford
to support the smallest establishment in the country, was, on account
of the excessive heat, gone out of town. At length I fixed myself with
Madame R⸺, the widow of an officer of dragoons, with three children, the
eldest a girl of fourteen. A rich old gentleman, her cousin, M. B⸺, also
resided with her, and they kept, in conjunction, two carriages and three
horses, and occupied three different country houses.
I had the pleasure, one day, of accompanying Madame R⸺ on horseback, to
visit one of her country seats, and was not a little surprised to find
that she rode after the manner of gentlemen, with a horse-cloth doubled
under her, instead of a saddle. It is, however, seldom that ladies in
France ride on horseback, and they were not a little astonished, after
the peace, to see our fair countrywomen riding in their usual manner
with side-saddles, an accommodation they were not familiar with. I must
acknowledge, I should not have liked exhibiting in the same way in Hyde
Park; we did not, however, pass through the town in this manner, for
our horses were led out of it before we mounted, and on our return, we
dismounted before re-entering it.
A few days after my arrival, I commenced using the mineral baths of
Aix, which I persevered in during my residence, and I think with much
advantage, although I could not bear drinking the waters, which I
fancied to be of a chalybeate nature; I endeavoured, but in vain, to
get a correct analysis of them; the resident physician, appointed by
government, either could not, or would not inform me; he referred me to
a large octavo volume, sold at the baths, but I found it contain nothing
except eulogies on their virtues, in almost every disease to which the
human body is incidental. The temperature of the water is about 97°
Fahrenheit.
The baths are situated in the Fauxbourg, or higher part of the town; the
best situation for the invalid who wishes to take advantage of them, is
near the Hotel de Prince, on the Coursé, which is the pleasantest part of
the town.
The Coursé, is a double walk, with rows of lime-trees on both sides, and
a carriage road between them; these walks form the fashionable promenade
of the place on a summer’s evening. There are also good boulevards; Aix
upon the whole, however, is defective in public walks, and the streets
are narrow and very dirty. It is far from being an agreeable residence
in summer, as the town is empty and dull; and in winter it is cold, in
consequence of its situation on an extensive plain, exposed to the _vents
de bise_ from the neighbouring mountains.
There is a line cathedral at Aix, one of the doors of which is considered
an exquisite piece of workmanship; in consequence, it is preserved in a
case, and a particular application required to get admitted to a sight of
it. I attended the service of the cathedral one fête day, and heard some
very fine vocal and instrumental music.
The college here is as famous for law, as that of Montpellier for
physic; and there is a public library which contains some English books,
presented by one of our countrymen. The town also possesses a museum of
natural history, and some good private collections of paintings.
My intercourse was chiefly confined to the family with which I resided,
and a few English friends; I am, therefore, unable to say much respecting
the social habits of the place, but understood that it was by no means
defective in these respects; although there are no public amusements
during the summer, the winter brings with it theatrical, and other
entertainments.
Provisions are abundant and cheap, and the bread is so excellent as to
be sent in large quantities to other places.
I was anxious to visit the celebrated city of Marseilles, distant only
fifteen miles, and proceeded with Mr. H. W⸺, and another gentleman, to
put this design in execution; on our arrival we placed ourselves at the
Hotel des Ambassador, in the Rue Beauveau, near the Place Moliere, where
the theatre stands.
The commerce of this great mercantile city was at this time much
depressed, owing to the heavy duties imposed upon goods imported by
American vessels; which however they managed to evade, in some degree, by
unshipping their cargoes at Nice, or Genoa, into French coasters.
We visited the coral manufactory; the corals used in which, are said
to be very fine, and brought by the fishermen direct from the coast
of Barbary; I should have been glad to have purchased some, but was
apprehensive of imposition, and, moreover, found that I could not take
them into Italy, and elsewhere, without paying very heavy duties, or
incurring great risk of seizure.
It is customary at Marseilles, for the inhabitants in great numbers, to
go to the outsides of the harbour early in the morning to bathe, for
which purpose the females take the left hand, and the men the right.
We were induced to follow this good example, and found the bathing
delightful; we were carried by boats into about five feet water, with
a fine sandy bottom, and steps were then thrown out to enable us
conveniently to get into the water, and out again; but I preferred
throwing myself from off the gunwale and diving for some yards, after
which, I swam out to sea, to the astonishment of my friends and the
surrounding strangers, who were rendered sensible of my loss of sight, by
my occasionally calling out to ascertain the direction of the boat.
On the eve of our return to Aix, Mr. H. W⸺, a spirited young naval
officer, determined to repeat his bathing in the close of the evening,
and notwithstanding our solicitations to the contrary, insisted upon
going alone, although quite unacquainted with the French language. His
impetuosity led him into an adventure, which might have terminated in
fatal results, and, at all events, compelled us to hasten our departure,
under circumstances in some degree equivocal. On quitting his boat, he
offered the man who belonged to it, the same remuneration he had on
former occasions paid, which however was refused; my friend walked off,
and the man followed him, talking loudly in an unintelligible manner; at
length he laid hold of him by the skirt of his coat, when W⸺, turning
round, knocked him down; a mob soon collected, who taking the boatman’s
part, proceeded to beat our young friend most unmercifully, and probably
would have murdered him, had not some gentlemen interfered and extricated
him; one of these had the kindness to accompany him home, and requested
we would not venture into the streets, until the affair had been arranged
with the police, to whom he offered to accompany us on the following
morning. We acknowledged his kindness, but concealed our intention of
quitting Marseilles at five o’clock in the morning; in short, we thought
it better to avail ourselves of this chance of getting rid of the affair,
not however, without some apprehension of being pursued.
In fact, in two or three days after our return to Aix, it was announced,
that a person from Marseilles was enquiring for two gentlemen who had
lately been at the Hotel des Ambassador, in that place; we immediately
pictured to our imaginations, a police officer, with a warrant in his
hand, but it proved to be one of the waiters, who had called to apprise
us of a mistake of six francs, against us, in making out our bill, which
we paid with much satisfaction, as flattering ourselves that we had now
fully outwitted the police.
The month of September having considerably advanced, and the weather
becoming sensibly colder, I began to think of suspending the use of the
hot baths, and removing to a milder climate. I had the pleasure, however,
of thinking my health materially improved, my eyes in particular felt
lighter, and I fancied that I could occasionally discern a flash of light
from the under part of the left one. I selected Nice for my winter’s
residence, and on the 14th of September left Aix in the diligence, for
Antibes, taking leave of the last town in France, where I proposed making
any extended residence.
It is not easy to describe my emotions in quitting a people, with whose
language and habits I was now becoming well acquainted, and to whom
I felt a degree of attachment, grounded, if not upon congeniality of
sentiment, at least upon a grateful sense of repeated acts of kindness,
and attention, which I had experienced from them.
It is true, that I was fully alive to all the anticipated enjoyments of a
land of promise; the favoured Italy, highly gifted by nature and art; the
cradle of genius; the birth-place of poets, orators, and warriors; and
once the sole arbitress of the fate of the world.
I sought consolation in reflections of this nature, and in repeating the
lines of a favourite poet.
“Hope must brighten days to come
While memory gilds the past.”
CHAP. IX.
JOURNEY TO NICE.
On leaving Aix, our coach, besides myself, contained two gentlemen,
sons of General M⸺, who had been residing for eight years at a college
near Toulouse. We breakfasted at Luc, where we took up two or three
more passengers; from hence we passed on to Frejus, and thence over the
Estralès, formerly noted for numerous banditti. At Cannes General M⸺ came
out with his daughter, in his carriage, to meet his sons, whom we here
parted from. The remaining passengers also quitted us about this time, so
that before we entered Antibes I had the whole carriage to myself.
At Antibes I got my passport signed, to enable me to enter his Sardinian
majesty’s dominions; but this gave little trouble, as a person negotiated
the affair for the remuneration of one franc.
I remained at the inn where the diligence put up, in consequence of
finding that the one for Nice set off from it on the following morning.
I got my supper at the table d’hôte, in company with two or three
officers; the fare was very indifferent, and the charge exorbitant, in
consequence of not having made my bargain beforehand.
After supper I retired early to bed, in hopes of compensating for
my loss of sleep on the preceding night in the coach; but, alas! I
reckoned without my host, for it proved a night of misery; a multitude
of mosquitoes tormented me without intermission, and with joy did I
welcome the arrival of the moment, which announced that the diligence was
preparing to depart.
At four o’clock we left the inn, but the town-gates were yet closed, and
some time elapsed before they were opened to us; at length an officer
came and accomplished this with military ceremony; but we were still
unable to proceed, for a whole drove of asses and mules, laden with
fruits, vegetables, &c. had stationed themselves in the pass on the other
side, and began to enter amidst the smacking of whips, and hallooing of
muleteers; this occupied at least ten minutes.
Shortly afterward we took up a man who had fought in the battle of
Trafalgar, but was now a _traiteur_ at Nice, and had been into the
country to purchase grapes, in order to manufacture his own wine: he
seemed pleased on discovering that I had served in the British navy, of
which he spoke very highly.
We now arrived on the banks of the Var, which separates the kingdoms of
France and Sardinia, and, with little interruption from the custom-house
officers, immediately crossed the frontiers.
We here received the addition to our party, of two very genteel ladies
and a gentleman, who proved for the remainder of the journey, most
agreeable companions; I was so much interested in their conversation,
that, almost without being sensible of the progress, we arrived at the
Hotel des Etranger, at Nice.
I am unwilling, finally, to take my leave of France, without expressing
an opinion of the character of a people, with whom I had been so long
resident; the unfavourable circumstances, however, under which only I
could contemplate them, make me diffident in advancing my opinion, as
I am fully conscious of an inability to give the picture that energy
and justice of colouring which it requires. I shall, therefore, confine
myself to a few general remarks.
There is something highly fascinating in the exterior, manners, and
converse of a Frenchman; courteous in his behaviour, he evinces a
strong desire to please and be pleased; but although he manifests the
speciousness of ardent friendship, his heart is not the soil, in which
this quality is capable of taking a firm and unshaken root; as soon as
the source, from which it has emanated, and been supported, ceases to be
present, the previous impressions disappear, and a void is offered for
the reception of new ones, equally vivid, but equally superficial.
This mixture of susceptibility and indifference makes the Frenchman a gay
and pleasing, but, at the same time, an uncertain companion; he does not,
like the Englishman, dwell on the enjoyments of the past, and entangle
his mind with useless and prolonged regrets, but is ever ready to enliven
new scenes of social intercourse; in short, he can ill sustain a state of
_tristesse_, which he considers all his reflecting moments, and whether
thrown into contact with his countrymen, or strangers, is a sensualist
in his social feelings, and must seek for pleasure and amusement, for in
this “he lives and has his being,” and that man is his dearest friend,
who most contributes to his gratification.
With respect to the fair sex, they are generally lively and fascinating,
and possessed of susceptible feelings, capable of being converted into
strong attachments. These are some of the essential requisites for
forming an amiable, and virtuous character; but, alas! the good is
perverted by the influence of an injudicious and trifling system of
education, extended at most to superficial literary acquisitions, which
barely serve for the dictation of an ungrammatical _billetdoux_, or the
copying of a song. The most devoted attention is given to the art of
pleasing, and the study of dress, which, with the auxiliaries of music
and embroidery, form the leading occupations of young French females.
In conversation they are acute, playful, and frequently sensible, but
it cannot be wondered at, when the defects of education are taken into
account, that there should be little which sinks deep into the heart, and
leaves an impression, or promise, of future matron-like virtue.
Many ladies, however, are educated in convents, where they acquire a
temporary spirit of bigotry, which wears off after they return into the
world, and frequently leaves behind it a proportionate want of religious
feeling.