we became merry as gypsies, and my cocked-hat friend particularly
facetious. Soon after one o’clock, we arrived, in high glee, at our
breakfasting-place, where we found a voiture full of students, on their
way to the university of Toulouse. These young gentlemen paid me a marked
attention during our repast, assisting me liberally to the produce of the
table, and replenishing my glass before it was empty. When the voiture
was ready, I walked forward with the soldier’s wife, who appeared a
far more respectable woman, than from her situation in life might have
been expected. I now learnt, partly by words, and partly by signs, the
situation and circumstances of her husband; that subsequently to the
peace, he had attempted to support himself in Germany by his trade; but
difficulties arising, he was removing to Toulouse, her native place, in
hopes of proving more successful.
In the course of our walk, we ascended a considerable hill, from which,
my companion informed me, the prospect was most extensive and beautiful.
The air at this spot I found so soft, balmy, and exhilarating, that I
felt assured I had now reached the south of France. After crossing a
river, at seven o’clock we reached our quarters for the evening. The
students had preceded us, and in consequence of their occupying the
attention of the house, we had to wait a long time for our supper.
On the following morning we resumed our journey in high spirits, from
the prospect of arriving at Toulouse in the evening. We reached Agen for
breakfast, which I understood to be a very fine city: I was at this place
so much charmed with the manners and attentions of some young ladies at
the inn, that I admit I did not depart without regret. Had I the same
talents for acquiring languages, as Joseph Scaliger, who was a native
of this place, possessed, I might by this time have known sufficient of
the French to have benefitted by the agreeable conversation of these
ladies. At six in the evening we entered Toulouse, and were set down at a
miserable inn, termed the Three Mules.
While our supper was getting ready, I went, under protection of the
soldier’s wife, to call upon Mrs. W⸺, a lady who had kindly offered to
assist in procuring me a reception, for the winter, in some respectable
French family. I was fortunate enough to find her at home; when she
expressed much surprise at the manner in which I had travelled so far,
and informed me, that preparatory arrangements had been made for my
residence in the family of Colonel du B⸺. In returning to the inn we
experienced some embarrassment; for my conductress had been so long
absent from her native city, that we had much difficulty, in consequence
of the narrowness and intricacy of the streets, in finding our way back
to the inn.
After supper I was conducted to one of the most comfortless rooms
that could be imagined; every thing felt so damp, so antiquated, and
dusty: some of the chairs were without legs, others without backs; and
the windows were broken: but as there was no remedy, I was obliged to
make the best of it, and congratulated myself on having reached my
destined winter residence, and thus far, negatived the doubts, and kind
apprehensions of my friends.
CHAP. V.
TOULOUSE.
On the following morning, Mr. F⸺, a friend of Mrs. W⸺’s, called upon
me, to state the full particulars of the arrangements for my reception
into the family of Colonel du B⸺, to whom I was to be introduced on the
morrow; and in the evening, this kind lady sent two gentlemen to conduct
me to her residence, when I had the pleasure of being introduced to a
small circle of her acquaintance.
In the morning, Mr. F⸺ called upon me, in company with Colonel du B⸺,
when it was settled, that I was to become an inmate, in the family of
the latter, on the following day. These gentlemen did me the favour to
settle for my journey with the voiturier, and gave him a severe reprimand
for his want of humanity; and I took the opportunity of convincing the
soldier’s wife, who was present, of my sense of her kindness.
I now soon found myself happily situated in the house of Colonel du
B⸺, with whom I proposed to remain, until the approach of spring might
invite me to pursue my tour, and under the expectation, in the interim,
of improving my health, and acquiring a knowledge of the French language.
The former point was admirably promoted by the kind attentions, and
domestic arrangements, of Madame du B⸺; the latter would not fail to
result from so extended a residence in a family wholly unacquainted with
English, and where necessity, and the force of habit, must concur in
instructing me. I cannot, however, but acknowledge the patient assistance
which I received from the whole family; and my views were also promoted
by a pretty regular attendance on the lectures delivered at the royal
college of this place.
Our domestic circle consisted of M. and Madame du B⸺, their two sons
and daughters, with the father and a sister of Madame B⸺. Madame B⸺ was
what, in England, we should call a notable woman, who superintended
personally the arrangements of housekeeping. The colonel possessed a
mechanical taste, which with reading constituted his leading pursuit; he
was a hearty feeder, with, however, a supposed indifferent appetite; for
instance, he would breakfast, about noon, upon an immense quantity of
bread and cold meat, hard dried sausages, or rich _fromage de cochon_,
with a large bottle of wine, and afterward complain of a disinclination
for his dinner.
But perhaps the more interesting feature of the family group, was
Mademoiselle la Sœur. This lady, somewhat advanced beyond the noontide
of life, was a diminutive woman, with one eye, and largely attached to
the charms of _tabac_, which contributed to give her voice a strong nasal
tone; but in addition to this _penchant_ for snuff, she enjoyed also the
pleasures of the table; was fond of high-seasoned dishes, onions, garlic,
and wine; her converse was of the merry kind; she was fond of whispering
into one’s private ear; and with these talents, seemed also wonderfully
adapted for sociality, as she cultivated a large circle of acquaintance
in the town, and made it a rule to return with a whole budget full of
news for our amusement.
Toulouse, in point of extent, is considered the third town in France,
but in proportion to that extent, far less populous than many other of
its cities: it possesses some good public buildings, as well as modern
private houses, but the general appearance is very antiquated; the
streets are narrow and dirty, and what is a great annoyance in walking
along them, when it rains you are almost sure to be spouted upon from the
tops of the houses, in consequence of pipes sticking out to conduct the
water towards the middle of the streets.
There are in this city some good squares, particularly the Place Royal,
in which are situated the town-house and theatre; the Place St. George;
the Place St. Stephen, containing the cathedral; and also the Place de
Bourbon, which with its neighbourhood is the more eligible point for the
residence of a stranger.
Some of the walks around the town are very fine, but the access to them
unpleasant, in consequence of the offensive smells proceeding from the
narrow streets in their vicinity; this is particularly the case as you
approach the fine bridge over the Garonne.
Lodgings, such as they are, are reasonable, and the necessaries of life,
of all kinds, abundant, good, and cheap. The town is supplied with water
from the river; this indispensable article being carted about in casks
through the streets at all hours. The stranger will also notice a number
of asses, which are driven about the town, to supply invalids with their
milk.
I declined participating much in the society of the place, but both the
French and English residents are sociably inclined. It is not, however,
the fashion among the former, to make morning visits, or give dinner
parties, but their houses are open for their friends every evening, and
on appointed nights they visit in large parties, and amuse themselves
with conversation, singing, cards, or dancing.
A theatre was open during a part of the winter, and we had two or
three public concerts, as well as a variety of private ones by amateur
performers, particularly during the season of the carnival, which
finished on the 14th of February, and exhibited all its usual variety of
masks, grotesque characters, and buffoonery; these concerts were only
given on the Sunday afternoon.
There are a few customs, and points of etiquette, which it may be
interesting to notice.
When a stranger arrives at Toulouse, and wishes to enter into society, he
leaves his card with the prefect, who, after returning his call, sends
him invitations to the public parties, which he gives once or twice in
the week, when he has the opportunity of seeing the best company of the
place.
On new-years-day, it is the custom (although I believe the same is
common to most parts of the continent) to call on all friends, and
present the ladies with fruits, toys, trinkets, or _bon-bons_, under
some ingenious deceptions, and which it is generally expected, will be
accompanied by a salute; therefore if you have an extensive acquaintance,
it is indispensable to set out, at an early hour, loaded with smiles,
compliments, and presents.
I scarcely feel competent to speak of the various ceremonies of the
Gallican church here, but when an Englishman dies, it is customary to
send the following notice, to the various residents from his country,
requesting their attendance at the funeral.
“M⸺
_Vous êtes prié par M⸺ et M⸺ de leur faire l’honneur d’assister
à l’inhumation de M⸺ qui aura lieu le ⸺ à ⸺ heure du ⸺. Le
convoi sortira de sa maison d’habitation._
_Pax illi ⸺”_
There is only one burial ground for Protestants, at Toulouse, situated at
some distance from the city.
Early in February, the news arrived of the death of our late venerable
and beloved king; the intelligence was received by the English in this
place, with every possible mark of respect, and a public mourning
immediately took place.
Soon afterward, the city of Toulouse was thrown into a high state of
consternation, in consequence of the assassination of the Duc de Berri;
the imaginations of the inhabitants recurred to the sanguinary scenes
of the French revolution, in which this town had no small share, and
anticipated a return of its horrors. After this event, the following
invitation was addressed to the various English residents:
_“Eglise reformée de Toulouse.
Nos tres chers frères en Jesus Christ._
_Vous avez tous gémis sur l’horrible attentat commis sur la
personne de S. A. R. Monseigneur Le Duc de Berri, attentat
qui a privé la France et l’auguste famille des Bourbons,
de leur espoir le plus précieux; nous vous invitons à vous
rendre vendredi 24 de ce mois, à onze heure du matin, dans le
temple, pour exprimer, devant Dieu, la vive douleur que nous en
èprouvons._
_Les Membres du Consistoire.
CHABRAND, President, &c. &c. &c.”_
_Toulouse, le 22 Mars, 1820._
This city abounds with beggars, many of them objects of real charity; as
it is impossible that persons with limited incomes, can afford a sous for
each, it is not unusual to give them one, and take change out of it.
The winter proved unusually severe; from the middle of November to the
end of December, it continued wet; from this time to the latter part of
February, it was excessively cold; and at the end of January, the ground
was covered with snow for a fortnight together. For an uninterrupted
week, during some part of the twenty-four hours, Fahrenheit’s thermometer
stood at from 9° to 11° below Zero. The Garonne for the first time for
thirty years, was frozen over, the ice being found to the thickness of
nine inches. The end of March, and beginning of April, however, became so
fine and warm in the middle of the day, as to make walking irksome.
I now began to contemplate breaking up my winter quarters, in order to
proceed to Montpellier. On inquiry, I found two modes of conveyance to
this place, one by the Grand Canal de Languedoc, the other by diligence;
and having made my arrangements for being conveyed by the latter, I
prepared, on the 13th of April, to bid adieu to Toulouse.
I must not, however, leave this city, without paying a due tribute of
respect to the worthy family with whom I have been resident, whose
innumerable acts of kindness, and attention to a whimsical invalid, will
ever claim his gratitude.
But let me not exclude my English friends from this expression of
feeling. Mrs. W⸺ and Miss S⸺ are, in particular, entitled to my sincerest
acknowledgments; and who were not only the first to receive me at
Toulouse, but the last to take leave of me. They will ever retain a place
in the recollections of a grateful heart.
CHAP. VI.
MONTPELLIER.
We left Toulouse in the afternoon, and travelling during the whole night,
reached Narbonne on the following day for dinner; at nine o’clock in
the evening we halted for a short time at Beziers, where we were left,
under cover from a heavy rain, in a kind of stable-yard, while our
conducteur transacted some business in the town. After this we again
proceeded throughout the night, and at day-break arrived in sight of the
Mediterranean Sea, afterward reaching Montpellier about ten o’clock.
On leaving the coach, I accompanied a gentleman with whom I had been
acquainted at Toulouse, and who had been a fellow-traveller on the
present occasion, to his lodgings in this town; but on his arrival, he
met with the following disappointment. During his absence, on legal
business, he had permitted some friends to occupy his rooms, one of whom
happened to die in his best chamber. Now it is customary in France, on
such an occasion, to burn the bedding and other furniture, and in case
of this happening in lodgings, the friends of the deceased are expected
to pay for them; the charge, in the present instance, was eight hundred
francs, and the furniture had not been replaced; my friend, therefore,
was induced to provide himself with fresh rooms: formerly this was not
the only tax upon the property of a foreigner who died in France, for by
the _droit d’Aubaine_, which has only been abolished since the return of
Louis XVIII., his whole property became confiscated to the King, under
the erroneous idea that it must have been acquired in his dominions.
For the first three days, I lived with this gentleman at his lodgings,
having however my sleeping-room at the Hotel de Midi; after which time,
I had the good fortune to place myself in the family of Madame the
Countess de M⸺, who occupied a noble mansion, agreeably situated near the
town, replete with every convenience, and comprising beautiful gardens,
embellished with terrace walks, fountains, and a _bosquet_, where, to my
surprise, the nightingale sang all day long. For some reason or other,
Madame found it convenient to dispose of a part of her house; one portion
was occupied by two French officers with their families, and another by
a Russian officer. The suites of apartments were, however, perfectly
distinct, and there was little intercourse between the above and her own
family, which inhabited the better part of the house, and consisted of
herself, two daughters, and a relative, M. de C⸺.
I was exceedingly happy in this family, and with the friend who
accompanied me from Toulouse, made various excursions into the
surrounding neighbourhood; we particularly enjoyed the walks on the
banks of the river and lake, where the air was much cooler and more
agreeable, than on the road, at this time becoming dusty and troublesome.
The scenery, about two or three miles from the city, is said to be
romantically beautiful. On our return, we used, occasionally, to take a
warm bath, which was peculiarly refreshing, and with respect to which,
I noticed a luxury, which I had never before remarked,—namely, a clean
sheet thrown over the surface of the bath, which you descend into, and
are enveloped in.
There are also some delightful public walks about the town, as the
Perût, whence is a view of the Mediterranean, and Cevennes mountains;
the esplanade; and the botanic gardens. The city is also surrounded
by boulevards, of which I was able to make the tour in forty minutes.
The markets at Montpellier are well supplied with meats and fish of
all kinds; with poultry, vegetables, and fruits in abundance. The _vin
ordinaire_ of the country, is termed vin de St. George, which is good,
and full bodied, and sold from the cask as low as five or six sous
the full quart bottle, although, after bottling and refining, the wine
merchant charges twenty sous for a small wine quart. There is, however,
another sort, termed vin de Lednon, which is lighter, but highly
flavoured, and consequently more estimated, selling at thirty sous the
bottle. A variety of other wines may also be procured.
Montpellier has a theatre, to which it is singular that the officers in
the garrison here, are obliged to subscribe, whether they attend it or
not; besides the above, there are a great variety of other amusements.
Madame de M⸺, and her eldest daughter, went one evening to a ball given
by general B⸺, where the young lady had the fortune to make a conquest
of an officer, with whom she danced; on the following day he paid her a
visit, and shortly after made his proposals in form, which were accepted;
after this, according to the custom of that part of the country, he was
considered as one of the family, which was an additional pleasure to me,
as he was a sensible gentleman-like companion. The marriage, however, did
not take place until after my departure from Montpellier.
This love affair leads me to relate an affecting, romantic, and even
tragical incident, which occurred in the family of Madame M⸺, during my
residence with her.
Her youngest daughter, Clementine, was a lovely girl, about seventeen
years of age; but, alas! it is impossible that I can do justice to
charms which it was forbidden me to behold! A young gentleman one day
walking accidently near the house, observed this interesting girl leading
a goat, tied with a string, over a rising ground, near the bosquet;
struck with her beauty and simplicity, his imagination took fire, and a
passion the most ardent possessed his soul; his constant delight was to
wander near the spot which contained the object of his affections, and
amply was he repaid, when he could thus steal a glimpse of her beloved
form. But he was soon compelled to tear himself away to prosecute his
studies in Paris; her image pursued him, and dwelt incessantly within
his mind; and he returned to Montpellier with unabated affection. The
diffidence so characteristic of pure and ingenuous love, prevented him,
for a time, from declaring his passion; at length, however, he summoned
sufficient resolution to demand an interview with the countess, but as
he refused to send up his name and object, she declined seeing him; in a
while he repeated the call, declaring that he had something particular
to communicate, but still refusing to give his name; the countess
consequently again refused to see him, but sent Clementine to inquire the
nature of his business.
Those who know how to love, may imagine his sensations, on finding the
object of his ardent passion, thus unexpectedly placed before him;
his perturbation amounted to a stupid confusion; he was incapable of
utterance; and the unconscious maid left him without receiving the least
explanation. His only consolation was now to repeat his wanderings around
her habitation. One night I was myself alarmed by the sound of footsteps
under my window, and for some time laboured under the impression, that
an attempt was making upon the house. It was the unfortunate lover; who
frequently spent whole nights around the spot, where he first saw his
adored mistress.
On the morning of the 24th of June, I was disturbed from my sleep, by the
sound of many persons talking in the house and garden, in a manner which
convinced me that something dreadful had occurred; I immediately hurried
on my clothes, and hastened to ascertain the cause, when, on opening the
door of my room, which led into the hall, Mademoiselle de M⸺ instantly
advanced towards me in tears, exclaiming, in the most pitiful tone,
that a gentleman had killed himself in the garden, and then proceeding
with the following relation: That her mother having risen early for the
purpose of bathing, while the bath was in preparation, had walked into
the garden in company with M. de C⸺, who was just returned from a party
in the town, with whom he had been passing the preceding night; that, at
this juncture, they saw through some bushes, a gentleman sitting on the
grass, and whom she was on the point of approaching to accost, when he
rose up, took out a large knife, and plunged it into his breast. M. de
C⸺ immediately sprang across the path, exclaiming, “Mon Dieu! Mon ami,
why have you done this!” The only reply from the unfortunate man was,
“Clementine! Clementine!” The countess ran to procure assistance, and
the whole house was soon in confusion. The most sympathizing inquiries
were made into the motives for committing so rash a deed, when, exhausted
with loss of blood, he exclaimed, “Ah! Clementine! for you I die! I feel
you can never be mine, nor can I live without you!” He was now conveyed
to a neighbouring house; a surgeon and the police officers soon arrived;
the former reported, that the knife had been turned aside by a rib, but
that he was in imminent danger. The police officer then proceeded in his
duty, emptying his pockets, and conveying their contents to the Bureau.
A letter was found, directed to Madame de M⸺, with another enclosed for
Clementine, and I was informed they were both written with very great
propriety, and expressive of his unhappy passion.
I quitted Montpellier a week after this event, at which time, the
unfortunate lover continued in a hopeless state.
Both as sources of amusement and instruction, I frequently attended the
lectures on chemistry, mineralogy, and botany, at the college, and had
reason to feel gratified by the general attention paid me, both by the
professors and students. Montpellier appears a most desirable situation
for prosecuting a course of study, as it abounds with excellent public
lectures, literary societies, and good libraries. In short, it must be
an agreeable winter’s residence under any circumstances,—to those who
wish to be gay, it offers a continual routine of balls, plays, and other
amusements, public as well as private; and the valetudinarian will find
as pure air, and agreeable walks and rides, as he can desire.
The time I had allotted for my residence at this delightful place, was
now drawing to a close, and having provided a fresh supply of Herries
and Farquhar’s notes, from my punctual and obliging bankers in London, I
prepared to proceed to Aix in Provence, where I proposed to bathe for
the remainder of the summer, staying a few days only at Nismes, on my way.
I shall avail myself of this opportunity of recommending to travellers
the superior advantages of Herries and Farquhar’s notes, in preference to
letters of credit, and which I cannot do better than state in their own
words.
“The object of this plan is to supply travellers with money, whenever
they may require it, without there being any necessity of determining the
route beforehand. For this purpose, a correspondence is established with
all the principal places of Europe. The traveller is furnished with a
general letter or order, addressed to the different agents of the house,
which letter, while it serves to identify him, gives a claim to any
attention or good offices he may stand in need of.”
A variety of clear and explicit arrangements are made, to facilitate
the immediate supplies of the traveller, whenever he may need them; and
excellent precautions adopted, to prevent forgeries, impositions, and
the extravagant expenses, commissions, and discounts, which attend the
negotiation of bills on merchants’ houses.
CHAP. VII.
NISMES.
A short time before my departure from Montpellier, I had the misfortune
to sprain my ancle, which abridged materially my usual pleasure of
walking, but did not prevent me pursuing my original intention of
proceeding to Aix.