Commodore arrives at last--Preparations for a Start--Delay
--Washington's Birthday--The Clipper Challenge--Prisoners
from her--Homeward Bound!--Reflections on Leaving--Case of
Small-Pox--Second visit to Anger.
The flag-ship being now daily expected, we unmoored, and came down to
Macào, awaiting her arrival in the outer Roads. Lay there, rolling, with
occasional trips on shore, until the fourth of February, when the
Commodore's broad pendant hove in sight. He anchored in the roads: and
after we had reported, ordered us, by signal, to accompany him to
Hong-Kong. Here we anchored, and remained until the squadron were all
assembled, when we were ordered back to Macào, to take in provisions for
the voyage home, and remove the invalids from the hospital. This
accomplished, we returned again to the rendezvous, to receive our final
orders, which were to relieve us from duty on the station, and send us
home!
Were delayed by the investigation of a mutiny on board the American
clipper ship Challenge, the ringleaders being then in custody in the
Hong-Kong jail, and the case before the United States Consul.
Washington's birthday came round again whilst we remained in the harbor
of Hong-Kong, and was celebrated by our squadron, the guns of which
made quite a noise in the ears of the descendants of those who had once
denounced him as a rebel.
Took an opportunity to look at the "Challenge." She is an immense
vessel, 243 feet long, with 43 feet beam, and over 2,000 tons burthen,
but so beautifully proportioned as not to appear above 1,200. Her spars
are immense, and she spreads a _cloud_ of canvas. Depend upon it, she
will not belie her name, but with any kind of a chance, is destined to
make a voyage, which she may confidently _challenge_ the navies of the
world to beat!
On the twenty-fifth of February, the prisoners from the Challenge were
sent on board, six in number; and at 6 bells P. M. got up anchor, and
fired a parting salute, which was returned by the Commodore, gun for
gun. Exchanged cheers with the squadron, made an evolution in the
harbor, by way of "salaam," and then stood out, with studding-sails set,
homeward bound!
There is a sort of unexpressed concern, a kind of shock, that sets one's
heart ajar at leaving even the most unpleasant people and places, says
one who ought to know, for he had travelled much, and I could not help
agreeing with him, as we took our departure: There was but little to
regret in leaving China. I had formed few ties there. The places and
people (with but few exceptions), if not unpleasant, were at least
indifferent. Yet I must admit this unexpressed and inexpressible
concern, as our vessel glided out of the harbor of Hong-Kong, towards
home.
But we had a long passage before us, and much water to sail through,
ere we reached our homes. The China and the Java seas had to be
traversed ere the Straits of Sunda gave us a passage to the Indian
Ocean, whose bosom we had to plough until the southern point of Africa
passed, the Atlantic could be pressed by our keel;--and then not the
Ocean of our hemisphere: for many degrees of longitude must be tracked,
before we could set them down as West; and the imaginary "Line" divided
us from the Northern Ocean, in which lay our port.
Took our departure from the "Ladrone Islands" at 8 o'clock on the night
of the twenty-fifth, and the next day at meridian, we had made 128 miles
on a S. S. West course. Weather fine; beautiful, easy sailing, with the
wind abeam.
On the twenty-seventh, wind hauled ahead, and we only got eighty-eight
miles out of the ship in the last twenty-four hours; and for the last
two days of February had a dead beat--a thing altogether unlooked for in
the China Sea at this season.
On Thursday, eleventh of March,--sea time,--at meridian, we were
thirteen miles south of the Line, in long. 107° 22' 55'' east; being the
third time of our "crossing" it. A few days previous to this a case of
small-pox had broken out, one of the prisoners having contracted the
disease in Hong-Kong, where it had been raging to some extent. This was
rather a serious matter in a small and crowded ship at sea; but he,
being placed in the lee quarter boat, and a strong N. E. monsoon then
prevailing, after a while recovered, no contagion having been
communicated to the ship's company.
The Island of Saint Barbe was passed on the morning of the last date. It
is a beautiful island, uninhabited, and as near the line as can be.
On St. Patrick's day, 17th. March, came to anchor at Anger, where we
stopped for a supply of water and wood. I have described this place in
an earlier chapter, and on landing found the town without much change.
The Banyan tree still there, with the Dutch flag above it, and the
string of half clad Malays on their usual walk between it and the
Bazaar. The former mansion of the Governor had been destroyed by fire,
and a new Governor had been installed, who occupied the house formerly
used as a hotel. He was absent on official duty, but his Secretary did
the honors of reception.
Naturally looking round for our old friend, the Dutch landlord, found
him in a smaller house, his only customer; had expected to have heard
that he had fallen a victim to his love for "schnapps," but here he was
as blooming as ever, and as much addicted to his national
liquor--certainly gin appeared to have agreed with him.
Took possession of his quarters at once, and ordered a supper, of which
some _slap-jacks_ was the only dish eatable. Composed ourselves for the
night, on a mattress hauled from his own bed, with expectation of a more
comfortable breakfast, which, with the addition of eggs, and the
omission of slap-jacks, was a fac-simile of the evening meal.
There was one thing peculiar about the eggs, which I would recommend be
introduced into the United States, viz., to have the date of the time in
which they were laid marked upon the shell, as he had, only proposing
that the marker be sworn as to the correctness of the date; in which
case the Dutchman would have perjured himself, I fear.
Had a splendid bath, by favor of the Secretary, in the Governor's
bath-house, which was large enough to swim in, and constantly supplied
with fresh water by the same aqueduct that brings it to the shipping.
Our compradore gave us a treat of mangusteens, delicious fruit, and then
the cornet being hoisted at the fore, the signal for sailing, repaired
on board, having spent twenty-four hours very pleasantly again at Anger.