Anson's Bay--Hong-Kong again--P. & O. Company's hulk takes
fire--Escape of Captain's wife--Toong-Koo Bay--Piracy--Fire
at Macào--Wolf again at Whampoa--Amateur Theatricals at
Canton--Melancholy musings.
From Whampoa, came down the river to Anson's Bay and anchored; here held
communication with our consort, which went up to the "Reach" to take our
place.
Anson's Bay is just outside of the Bogue, and from our anchorage had a
fine view of the Forts, some eight or nine being in sight. Tiger Island
was also conspicuous, and the formation of a tiger's head quite
apparent.
From Anson's Bay took our departure for Hong-Kong, where moored ship on
the 19th October.
On the 20th, at about 5 P. M., the Peninsular and Oriental Company's
hulk "Fort William," used for storing coal and opium, took fire and
burned until 10 o'clock that night, when the fire was got under. Our
crew assisted, with buckets from the ship, nearly all of which they
managed to lose. The Captain's wife, who lived on board the hulk, had a
narrow escape, having to be lowered out of the stern ports.
From Hong-Kong over to Macào, where obtained permission to go into
Toong-Koo Bay for the purpose of calking, preparatory to our long voyage
home, upon which we now hoped to be ordered daily; the rolling in the
Roads preventing the possibility of effecting it at Macào.
Toong-Koo Bay is in the Cap-sing-moon passage, and about thirty miles
from Hong-Kong. The British fleet rendezvoused here during the war with
China.
Were anchored near Sam-sah Island, where tents were pitched and the sick
placed in them. Every morning one watch was permitted to go on shore to
wash their clothes, &c., until relieved by the other watch, so that
there was always a little colony on the island. It was otherwise
uninhabited.
Strolling over the island, came upon the ruins of a house and some human
bones, and ascending a hill had a splendid view of the bay and
surrounding islands. These appeared innumerable, like icebergs in the
Antarctic circle, cutting up the bay into intricate channels, and as
barren, if not as cold, as those ice islands. Pirates are plentiful in
this neighborhood, and one morning, at daylight, Afouke, our fast
boatman, brought on board two Chinamen, whom he had picked up swimming.
They were badly wounded, and stated that about three o'clock that
morning, as they were fishing, they were boarded by pirates, who threw
fire-balls amongst them, burning them badly, and forcing them to leap
into the water to save their fives, and then took possession of their
boats. These waters are infested with pirates, who ostensibly pursue the
avocation of fishermen, until an opportunity opens to catch men. The
English navy did a great deal towards extirpating them, until their
government took away the "head money," and now but few expeditions are
fitted out; although doubtless the junior officers are as anxious for
the service as ever.
The calking completed, reported ourselves at Macào; but no Commodore
appearing, and our coppers being worn out, went over to Hong-Kong to get
them repaired. Here we got a mail and news from home which was cheering,
and increased our desire to start.
Went through a round of dinners at Hong-Kong, exchanging civilities with
officers and citizens, but began to get tired of this kind of thing;
like the schoolboy, _wanted to go home_!
At this time the government of Macào changed again, Cardozo being
recalled, and Gruimaraens, commander of the corvette "Don Jooa,"
superseding him, his _ex_-Excellency departed for Lisbon in the return
mail steamer, not much regretted, I understood.
A powder boat laying almost under our bows was robbed, the powder
removed, and its keeper carried away, without exciting any attention; so
silently was the act performed.
As we were leaving for Macào, the clipper ship Witchcraft came in,
disabled, as I have recorded in a previous chapter.
Whilst at Macào, this time, a very extensive fire occurred, amongst
China houses near the Bazaar. About thirty were destroyed, and a great
many goods. A silk merchant's loss was considerable. So frightened was
the fellow, that he removed his goods into a house that was afterwards
burned, his own shop escaping; literally "jumping out of the frying-pan
into the fire."
On the nineteenth of December, ordered again to Whampoa, to relieve our
consort, and protect American interests from that imaginary wolf, the
rebellion. Christmas day passed by there gloomily, and the new year
commenced unprofitably.
Went up to Canton, to witness a theatrical performance, by amateurs,
and was delighted. The room was well fitted up, and the appointments
excellent. The play was, "The Schoolfellows,"--a beautiful little drama,
by Douglas Jerrold, I believe; and it was admirably cast. Mr. Murray as
Tom Drops--a good-hearted, liquor-loving _vaut-rien_--was inimitable. He
was waiter and hostler to a village inn; and the scene in which he, upon
wine being called for by a customer, produces, condemns, and consumes, a
bottle of the "_black seal_" was the perfection of acting, the different
phases of ebriety were well portrayed, and in the course of the play,
additional red patches appeared upon his face, to show the effects of
his habits.
Box and Cox was the after-piece; and Mr. Clavering as _Mrs._ Bouncer,
was the very beau-ideal of a landlady, "fair, fat, and forty." The
prologue was excellent, and well delivered, and the amateur company had
just reason to be proud of their performance.
Having been favored with a copy of the opening address, I transcribe it.
Of course, it loses much from the effect given by its composer in its
delivery.
"Fair ladies, and kind friends, who deign to smile
On our attempt an hour to beguile,
I'm hither by the actors sent, to pray
A gentle judgment on a first Essay.
They bid me state, their novel situation
Has set their hearts in such strange perturbation,
They dare not raise the curtain till they've pleaded
First, for the pardon will be so much needed.
I'm shocked to say, it sounds so of the oddest,
Our ladies want much practice to look modest;
The rough, strong voice, ill suits with feelings tender,
And 'tis such work to make their waists look slender!
As for the men, the case is little better;
Some, of the dialogue scarce know a letter:
All unacquainted with each classic rule,
We feel we've need enough to go to school;
And trembling stand, afraid to come before ye,
And of the Schoolfellows to tell the story.
Yet need this be? I see no critic here;
No surly newspaper have we to fear;
Our scenery may be bad, but this is certain,
Bright decorations are before the curtain,
Under whose influence, you may well believe,
We do not sigh for Stanfield, grieve for Grieve!
Yet not too far to carry innovation,
And to comply with settled regulation,
Prompter we have, our memories to ease;
But our best prompter is, the wish to please.
Then kindly say, to stumblers in their part,
What they have _got_, was surely got _by heart_;
And each, surrounded by his friends, so stands,
He will meet nought but kindness at their hands."
The Stanfield and Grieve, upon whose names the happy alliteration is
made, are supposed to be celebrated English scene painters. But although
the scenery meets with disparagement in the prologue, yet it was very
superior; and the interior of the old schoolhouse, with the names of the
boys cut into the oaken pannels of the door, and on which Jasper points
out to Horace their initials intertwined, was a perfect picture.
Having gone thus far, I cannot omit a notice of Mr. Benjamin Sears'
impersonation of the aged schoolmaster, Cedar. The dignity and
simplicity of the character combined, was rendered by him in such a
manner as almost to bring back those forgotten tears, drawn forth in
olden times by that masterpiece of acting of Harry Placide's, in
Grandfather Whitehead.
"Our Ladies," who required so much practice "to _look_ modest," had
become perfect in that requisite before the upraising of the curtain;
and the young gentlemen cast in those characters sustained them with
much tact, and knowledge of the demeanor of well-bred ladies: so much
so, indeed, that after they had got through their parts, they were
added, still in character, to the galaxy of "decorations before the
curtain;" and the only _faux pas_ I noticed was by "Marion," who, in
being led to her seat in the dress circle, was about to take an
unladylike step ever an obstruction, which her (?) innate modesty
checked with the impulse.
After the performance, all the characters attended a fancy dress ball in
their stage costume; and the pseudo ladies found partners in every
dance, and won many hearts by their grace and beauty.
Had also a performance in the "Reach," by the crew of H. B. M. steamer
Salamander. The larboard side of the forecastle was allotted to them;
and they gave a drama "adapted to their stage," by one of their number
called the "Smuggler," which they produced with good effect. The
performance was, as they gave out, "under the distinguished patronage
of the American and Her Majesty's officers."
But in spite of all these distractions, our delay was barely
supportable; and watching the course of the muddy river, the following
lament was penned:
Oh! swiftly flows thy dusky tide,
Dark river, onward to the sea;
And little doth thy current bide
The thousand things that float on thee!
From off thy shore a weed is cast--
Swiftly, in thy resistless sway,
In eddying currents, sweeping past,
'Tis borne, unheeded, far away.
Like thine, the sweeping tide of Time,
Rolls onward ever to the shore
Of that uncertain, unknown clime,
From which it may return no more;
And on its flow, my brittle life
Drops down, uncared for, to _that_ sea,
Where, 'midst the dark waves' stormy strife,
It soon shall sink, and cease to be.