Shanghae--Immense number of Junks--Foreign Residences--Novelty
of Chimneys--Revolting appearance of Beggars--Undertakers
--Price of Coffins--Decline Trading--Description of City
--Stagnant Pools--Tea Gardens--Sweet Site--The Taoutae--
Advantages of Shanghae--Departure--Ship Ashore!--Sensation.
Shanghae is situated in about 30° 26' N. latitude; longitude 120° 48'
East. Reached it on the 16th of May, and came to anchor about one mile
below its walls, off the dwellings of the foreign residents. As we
approached, were struck with the appearance of a forest of masts,
belonging to junks in front of the city; in fact, these were all we
could see, as they completely shut out a view of the city from our
position.
Although suffering from sickness, could not resist the desire to get on
shore, and accordingly landed amongst the residents' houses the first
opportunity. These are built entirely in the European style, and some of
them present a fine appearance. The climate in the winter season
compelling the use of fire, they are all provided with chimneys, which
was a feature remarkable at once, it being unusual on the southern
coast. From these houses, as you approach the city, you enter upon a
scene of filth and dirt indescribable, and have to pass through a line
of beggars, who exhibit the most loathsome and revolting sores, to
excite the pity of the passer-by.
In approaching the city, had to skirt a graveyard, where the coffins are
placed above ground, and left there until their contents are decomposed,
when they are removed, to make place for others. In the neighborhood are
numerous coffin makers, and the trade appears to be thriving, from the
numbers engaged at it. Our guide informed me that I could procure one of
these "accommodations" at prices varying from five to five hundred
dollars. I declined trading for them, however, considering _that_ a
negotiation to be entered into by "sorrowing friends."
Entered the city through a double gateway, having had to cross a fetid,
shallow ditch before the walls.
Shanghae is a walled city, and in its appearance much like other Chinese
towns, only it was more filthy than any I had yet visited. Crossed a
number of stagnant pools, over bridges much too good for such stinking
streams, being, in their architecture, entirely out of keeping with the
other properties. Saw a great many Tea Gardens, where the tea was
dispensed by the cup; and when a Chinaman called for a cup, it was
perhaps in the same spirit that some of our country men demand a
"smaller" of brandy, rum, or gin, though the Celestial certainly imbibes
the least noxious potion. One of these gardens formed the centre of a
stagnant pool, and was reached by bridges from different points. A
fantastic-looking temple appeared the rendezvous, and upon the whole the
effect would have been pleasing, but for that sickly green water.
Visited several shops, and made a few purchases of "_curios_" and was
then perfectly satisfied to get out of such a filthy hole.
The day after his arrival, our commander and suite paid an official
visit to the Taoutae,--Lead man of the district,--and was well received.
The Chinese who held this office had been an old Hong merchant at
Canton. He gave the entertainment in the European style; and from having
consorted so much with "Fankwies," in his former capacity, he was quite
at home; but you may depend upon it, it is always with much reluctance
that these Celestial citizens of the Central Flowery Land dispense with
any of their customs in our favor; and when they do condescend to lay
aside their chop-sticks, and use the knife and fork, there is policy in
it. What was the object in this instance, further than to honor a nation
where "gold grows," I did not ascertain. But we have undoubtedly risen
greatly in their estimation since the acquisition of California, and the
appearance of our magnificent clipper ships in their waters.
The day following His Excellency, the Taoutae, sent on board numerous
presents, amongst which were some early fruit, sweetmeats, and two very
fine sheep. These latter, of the celebrated Shanghae breed, were the
finest specimens I have seen for a long time; and the most striking
peculiarity about them was the preponderance of fat to their caudal
extremities, the tail of each being of an entirely different formation
from that of the European breed; and I can compare it to nothing better
than an immense woolly mop, "in the place where the _tail_ ought to
grow." I do not know if any of these sheep have ever been imported into
the United States, or whether they would endure the voyage, but
understood the stock is not considered equal to our own. These certainly
were covered with heavy coats of wool: of its quality I was unable to
judge, having confined my examination entirely to what lay beneath,
which I can unhesitatingly pronounce to be as good mutton as I had ever
eaten.
A very short stay, and an attack of sickness, prevented me from
exploring much of Shanghae, or its environs, and I learned there are a
thousand things worth seeing.
The Chinese call this province the Paradise of China, and if I am not
mistaken, the word has this signification when interpreted: and they
have a proverb, which runs in this wise: "See Shanghae, and die." I came
very near acting up to their advice, for after seeing what is previously
written, I was taken seriously ill; so that, had our stay been
prolonged, I would have been unable to have gone on shore, unless,
indeed, in one of their fancy coffins!
Learned, however, from one of the officers of Her Majesty's brig
"Contest," who had been stationed here some time, that the climate is
delightful to those who are able to withstand the cold of the winters;
that the features of the country have not been misstated, but are equal
to any representation made; that game is at all times abundant,
especially in autumn, when fine sport is to be obtained by those who
handle "mantons" with even moderate skill; furthermore, the followers of
quaint old Isaac, the ancient angler, need but a tithe of his art to
tempt the piscatory tribe from their native element. But he did affirm
that in midsummer, the mercury in the tube scarcely ever gets below
100° Fahrenheit, and the action of the sun's rays upon the stagnant
water before-named, gives such an intimation to the nostrils of the
state of the atmosphere, as to render the use of the eudiometer
unnecessary.
Got under way from our moorings early in the morning of Monday the 19th,
and dropped down with the tide; getting out of the Woo-Sung, anchored in
the Yang-tse-Kiang, on the 20th, passed Saddle Island, and dismissing
the pilot, headed for Amoy, at which port we were to look in on our
return.
We had proceeded along pretty well until the morning of the 27th, when
about three o'clock in the morning watch, as I was lying awake in my
apartment, heard the officer of the deck give the order for tacking
ship--"Ready about"--and after the boatswain's pipe to "Stations."
"Ready, ready," when she received a shock, as from the concussion of a
heavy sea, then another, and another, which soon convinced me that the
ship was ashore. This was certainly unpleasant, as I had no doubt but
that we were at that time twenty miles from land, and the idea of a
coral reef in that position, was premonitory of a salt-water bath.
Before the call of "All hands save ship," was given, I was upon deck,
and found that she had grounded upon a bank on the northern coast of the
island of Formosa, having been swept by an unusual current over thirty
miles in the course of twelve hours, an event altogether unlooked for,
and which would have baffled the skill of the most experienced
navigator; our chart, upon examination, also proving to be incorrect.
Luckily it was ebb tide when she went on, and after getting out all the
boats, and lightening the ship by throwing overboard shot and starting
water, she was got off, after having been aground about eight hours, and
thumping terribly.
It was the first time I had ever felt the effects of a heavy sea upon a
ship ashore, and never wish to experience them again.
With our armament and stores we were probably as heavily laden as a
merchant vessel of greater tonnage would have been with cargo, but being
more strongly built, were of course better able to withstand the shocks.
Every time she struck, the top-gallant masts would sway like saplings,
and the ship tremble throughout her whole frame, indeed, a homely remark
of one of her crew was very expressive of her condition: "Why the old
ship has got the hiccups," and her motions were truly resembling those
of a human being in convulsive throes.
Notwithstanding we got off so easily, yet our situation had in it much
of peril, and we were at one time in some danger.
The inhabitants of this part of Formosa are savages, some say cannibals.
They had gathered in great numbers on the beach, some two or three
thousands, and appeared divided into different clans, awaiting our
breaking up. Had we fallen into their hands, defenceless, there was but
little chance of escaping, so greatly did they outnumber our crew.
As it was, we got off barely in time, for it commenced to "blow great
guns" about the time we got afloat, which created such a sea as would
soon have knocked us to pieces, and even before we had way on, the surf
was beating so violently upon the beach, as to have precluded all
possibility of reaching the shore in an armed body.
Under double-reefed topsails we beat over to Amoy, and the next morning
made the entrance to that port, but had to stand off and on the whole
day and night, the sea being so high as to make it dangerous to attempt
to enter the harbor.