Trip to Macào--Disappointed in getting ashore--Mail arrived--
Get no Letters--Expression of Sentiments--Causes and Effects
--Overland Mail--Idea of a Route--Happy Valley--Chase of
Pirates--_A Poisson d'Avril_--Into the Typa again--Arrival of
Consort--Late Dates--Catholic Fête--Depart for Shanghae--The
Yang-tse-Kiang--Improvement in the appearance of the Country
--Better race of Men--Banks of the Woo-sung.
Took a trip over to Macào, for a supply of provisions, our dépôt being
there, and having these on board, back again to Hong-Kong. Did not get
ashore at Macào, which was somewhat of a disappointment, as I had some
kind friends there whom I wished much to see, and from whom the cruise
to Manilla had made the separation longer than usual.
Upon the eighteenth of March the Mail Steamer came into Hong-Kong, with
the overland mail. I had been anxiously expecting its arrival, with
letters for myself, but was disappointed, and gave expression to my
feelings in this wise:
No news from home! My weary heart
Beats sadly in its prison cage,
And 'gainst its bars, with bound and start,
A wearing, useless war doth wage.
Alone, alone! Its feeble song
Finds no responsive, answering tone;
And it hath sung in silence long,
And long, alas! may sing alone.
Oh, for a sound across the main,
A note affection knows so well;
That it might dream of heaven again,
That peace again with it might dwell;
And joy delayed, at last may come,
In cheerful, happy news from home.
After this felt somewhat relieved; for the mind is like the body, and
mental, as well as physical suffering, must have vent. A twinge of a
tooth brings forth a groan; a twitch of the heart-strings produces
poetry in me: have only to hope the poetry may not have the effect of
the toothache upon the reader.
The overland mail is brought across the desert by the Isthmus of Suez,
and reaches Hong-Kong in about forty-five days from England, and brings
dates from the United States in from 60 to 70 days, depending upon the
junction of the Atlantic steamers. Letters by it can either be sent via
Southampton, England, or Marseilles, France; the latter is considered
the swiftest route, the former the most secure.
Monsoons in the China Sea affect its transit on that end of the line,
and letters have been known to have reached Hong-Kong from New-York
during a favorable monsoon within 60 days.
Since the acquisition of California, our government possesses a much
speedier route, and would find it greatly to her interest to establish a
line by any of the overland routes across the Isthmus of Darien, and
from thence by steam to Shanghae, or even Hong-Kong in China; and I do
not despair of seeing the time when letters will be delivered in these
ports within forty days, from the Atlantic cities. Our growing interests
in this section of the globe demand attention and some arrangement of
this kind.
Remained moored in the harbor of Hong-Kong until the second day of
April, visiting the town occasionally, and strolling over the hills for
exercise.
They have some very fine roads for drives, cut at a considerable expense
through hills and boulders of granite. The "Victoria Road" leads out,
about four miles to a place called East Point, and upon it, about two
miles from the town, is a fine race-course. This course has been gotten
up by subscription, and is situated in a large and beautiful valley,
called "Happy Valley." It is well named, if beauty can confer happiness,
and it certainly is a principal ingredient, for has not a poet said
"A thing of beauty is a joy forever."
Here are held periodical races, and the sport is much enjoyed, as it
always is by Englishmen. No climate is too hot, none too cold to prevent
it, and these trials of speed are characteristic of the nation. The
Spaniard will have his bull-fight, the Mexican pits his cocks, but John
Bull selects the noblest of quadrupeds, and infuses into him his own
emulation for superiority.
Upon the evening of the 31st of March, had a little excitement to
destroy the monotony of a life on shipboard. A report was circulated
that a band of pirates had smuggled themselves on board the P. & O.
Company's steamer "Hong-Kong," which had left that day for Canton.
These boats are in the habit of taking Chinese passengers at one dollar
a head, a very low rate, and as such, it was said a number of
desperadoes, armed, had embarked in her.
H. B. M. screw propeller "Reynard," immediately got up steam, thirty men
and officers from our ship were transferred to the little American
steamer "Spark," and both vessels started in hot pursuit.
The Reynard stopped at the Bogue, and her boats proceeded to scour those
waters, whilst the Spark proceeded up the Canton river. She had not far
to go, however, for about midnight the return steamer was hailed, which
reported having passed the "Hong-Kong," all right. So both vessels
returned to Hong-Kong, upon the morning of the first of April.
But although the coincidence was ominous, they could not truly be said
to have caught a "_poisson d'avril_," for there was doubtless a design
against the steamer, which had on board a large amount of treasure, and
some of these Chinamen were afterwards tried and condemned at Hong-Kong,
for the attempt. Want of unanimity or some other cause having defeated
their purpose.
Upon the second of April, left for Macào, there to await the arrival of
our consort. Tried to get into our old anchorage in the Typa, and stuck
upon the mud-bank again, where we remained until the fourth morning,
kedging, hauling and warping, when succeeded in getting afloat by
pumping out the water, and transferring shot, &c., into a lorcha. After
reaching the anchorage, hoisted the Portuguese flag, and fired a salute
of 21 guns in honor of the birthday of the Queen of Portugal.
Upon the 8th instant, our consort arrived, and anchored in the outer
roads; by her I received old newspapers, and a letter seven months and
seventeen days after date.
Had been ashore several times in Macào, but found little to interest me
until the evening before Good Friday, when there was a general turn out
of the inhabitants, and all the churches were brilliantly illuminated,
and the altars decked with flowers. Crowds went from one church to the
next, and the principal object appeared to be that of visiting each and
every church, a continuous stream being kept up between them.
Upon Good Friday the tragedy of the death of our Saviour was performed
at the cathedral. After the crucifixion, the body was removed from the
cross, and carried upon a bier, through the different streets in solemn
procession. First came the host with its usual attendants, then followed
the "accursed tree" with the bloody garment of Christ upon it. After it
came ten beautiful children, personating angels; then was borne a waxen
image to represent the corpse, followed by the virgin mother, and
immediately succeeding the two other Marys. The bishop and suite were
next, then the troops of the garrison, with arms reversed, and mournful
music; the rear being brought up by male citizens in mourning dresses
and heads uncovered. In this line of march the procession moved through
the principal streets, and back to the cathedral, where the body was
placed in the tomb with solemn ceremony.
On the first day of the week the resurrection was celebrated with
appropriate joyful demonstration. At night, maskers went about the
streets, stopping at intervals to have a dance, and entering houses,
where after going through a performance, they would partake of
refreshments.
Left Macào for Shanghae on the 25th of April, to beat up the China Sea
against a strong N. E. monsoon. In this passage our craft behaved
remarkably well, and although quite wet, held her own, and diligently
ploughed her way through all difficulties, amongst not the least
obstructing was a heavy head sea, which made her very uncomfortable,
also greatly impeded her progress.
Made the islands off the mouth of the Yang-tse-Kiang on the 12th of May,
and came to anchor in the river that night. Found the current very
strong, and the wind being ahead, had to await a change of tide.
Weighed anchor with the first setting in of the flood, and got about
eight miles up the river, when had to let it go again. Thus we continued
until the 14th, when had worked our way into the Woo-Sung or Shanghae
river, where, although the breeze was favorable, the water shoaled so
suddenly, that we were forced to come to, just above the village of
Woo-Sung. The Woo-Sung river empties into the Yang-tse-Kiang about 40
miles from its confluence with the ocean, and the city of Shanghae is
situated upon the Woo-Sung, about three leagues above its junction with
the Yang-tse-Kiang, which is one of the largest rivers in China, and
washes the walls of the city of Nankin, formerly the southern capital of
the Empire.
Nankin is laid down in latitude 32° 5' N., longitude 119° E., and is
about 50 leagues from the ocean.
The meaning of the words Yang-tse-Kiang, is, Child of the Ocean, or more
literally, "Son of the Sea;" it is about two thousand five hundred miles
in length, and its breadth and capacity entitle it to the classification
of the third river of the world.[8]
As we ascended the Woo-Sung, found a marked difference in the face of
the country. Our former stations in China had been amongst the rocky
hills of the southern Archipelago, which scarcely allowed the smallest
shrub to take root upon their barren sides, and the sight of trees had
become rare to us. But here, upon either side, was stretched out a
beautiful green plain, giving evidence of the most industrious
cultivation, protected from encroachments of the river by strong and
broad levees. Substantial, comfortable farm-houses meeting the eye in
every direction, supplied the places of the insecure huts of the
fishermen. Fruit trees were abundant, and the general aspect gave
evidence of a genial soil, aiding the efforts of the provident
husbandman.
The men, too, whom we could see at work beyond the embankments, were of
a larger stature, and had a more healthy appearance than their southern
brethren. Their complexions were of a lighter hue, and here, for the
first time, I saw a Chinaman with rosy cheeks.
The invigorating effects of a northern climate were fully proven in the
appearance of these people. They seemed to enjoy the roughest health,
and were free from that care-worn look of the Chinese about Canton. They
were clad more entirely than these also, and wore more of woollen in the
material of their garments. Chow-chow appeared more abundant, and the
children were the fattest little rascals I have ever seen. But I cannot
commend them for cleanliness, and must admit that their countrymen
nearer the sea make a better use of that cleansing element,--possibly
because it was spread before them in larger quantities.
It was in the spring-time, in the "merrie month of May," when we
approached Shanghae; every thing was in bloom. There had been the usual
spring rains, and the weather had settled down to that delightful
temperature, which has such a cheering effect upon the spirits. And as
we dodged the tides in the winding Woo-Sung, spots would be descried
which brought to mind some similar scenes at home: these would be
pointed out. Another would find a resemblance in some grove, plantation,
or clump of trees; and thus its banks were made sacred, and our Lares
and Penates jostled the household gods that presided there.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 8: An English tourist, who found himself upon the
Yang-tse-Kiang, compared it with the Thames, admitting its superiority.
I, as a Yankee, compare it with my own Mississippi; and place it next in
rank to the "Father of waters," to which stream it hears some
resemblance.]