Visit Hong-Kong--A beautiful Morning--Harbor of Hong-Kong
--Settlement of Victoria--Line-of-battle ship Hastings--
Forecastle logic--An arrival from the Northern Seas--Her
B. M. S. Herald--Salutes--Description of Victoria--Club
House--Health of Hong-Kong--Death vacancies--Feasting and
Fêtes--Ball--Pic-Nic--Departure from Hong-Kong.
A visit to Hong-Kong had been some time in contemplation, and
accordingly on Friday afternoon, twenty-ninth of November, we unmoored,
and at three o'clock on Saturday morning, weighed the remaining anchor,
and drifted with the ebb towards the entrance of the Typa, but sticking
fast on a mud bank, had to wait for the next tide, which luckily bore us
off on the afternoon of the same day, when we got out and underway.
Upon one of the most beautiful mornings I had ever seen in this climate,
Sunday, the first of December, we were approaching Hong-Kong harbor,
with easy tacks, and came to anchor off the town at noon.
The harbor is a very fine one, having sufficient depth to float vessels
of the largest size, which is indicated by its color, being of a
beautiful blue, and forming a strong contrast to that of the Typa, and
the waters around Macào, which are discolored by the debouchment of the
Canton river.
It is very wide, and commodious, and completely locked by islands,
making, I should think, a safe anchorage in the Tyfoong season.
Hong-Kong is also an island, and was ceded to the British by treaty with
the Chinese. The settlement on it was called Victoria, but is generally
known by the name of Hong-Kong; in fact, I believe you would puzzle some
persons if you should call it by the former name. It extends over much
ground, and a towering mountain in its rear, upon the base of which a
portion of the town is built, has quite a romantic appearance.
Found in harbor Her British Majesty's line-of-battle ship Hastings,
bearing the flag of Admiral Austen, and a number of merchantmen of all
nations. One, which lay near us, with the Peruvian flag at her gaff, had
painted upon her stern, "Iowa, of San Francisco," and I overheard a
conversation between two of the men, on the subject of the apparent
anomaly. A forecastleman, addressing a petty officer, inquired how she
could hail from San Francisco, then belonging to the United States, and
fly the Peruvian flag. "Why, look ye, you nincompoop," was the reply,
"can't there be more'n one Jack Jones on the purser's books, and
wherefore shouldn't there be more than one San Francisco in the chart of
the world? Doesn't it stand to reason, seeing it's a saint's name, and
they're all Catholics along that coast, that they should have a Saint
Francisco in Peru?"
This reasoning appeared conclusive, as the subject was dropped. But
afterwards I learned that she had been purchased in California, and in a
few days her nation was made known, by the word Callao filling the
place of that of the Golden City on her stern: although her owner
appeared to regret that he had been forced to change her flag, as, I
understood, he thought he could have done better in an American bottom.
Upon the afternoon of the day of our arrival, H. B. M. ship Herald came
in from the North Seas, on her return, having been six years out from
England. No news of Sir John Franklin. Found her officers a fine,
gentlemanly set, in excellent health and spirits, and apparently glad of
a chance of thawing out.
On Monday saluted the Governor, twenty-one guns, which was returned from
the "Murray Battery," a field work on shore, gun for gun. Afterwards
gave the Admiral a salute of thirteen guns, returned by the "Hastings"
with fifteen. This appears to be a British Admiral's salute, although
we, having no such rank in our service, are not allowed to give him more
guns than we give to our highest naval officer, viz., a Commodore. It
may be all correct and proper, considering we have no corresponding
rank, but if our government would only view the matter in a proper
light, and lay aside petty prejudice, it would put our navy officers
upon a par with those of other nations, and by giving them a rank, if
only in name, entitle them to the same honors!
What are these officers but representatives of our government abroad,
and how are foreign nations to judge of us, but through the weight these
officers bear? Appearances and display go a great way with
semi-civilized nations!
But I tread upon ground I had intended to avoid, and must step back to a
more neutral point--my narrative.
After saluting, official visits were paid to the Governor and Admiral,
and I took an opportunity to view the settlement.
There is a striking difference between Macào and Victoria. Here the
merchants are princes, and dwell in princely edifices; here is life in
the streets, and people move about as if they had an object, and the
stranger says at once, "Ah! here is civilization!"
It is true he may not witness the evidence that caused an observing
traveller to make such an exclamation upon coming to a gallows; but that
proof may not be wanting that human nature requires restraint in all its
phases, he will see patrols of policemen with loaded clubs, and Sepoys,
having a carbine, or small rifle slung across their shoulders, parading
in great profusion.
Another difference will be remarked between this place and Macào, which
is, whilst Macào presents its best features in approaching it from
seawards, Victoria makes but little show from the water, and if a person
were only to have seen it from the harbor, he would set it down as a
very inconsiderable place. It is only when you land, and after walking
up one of the narrow slips, you pass through a gate into the "Queen's
Road," that any thing can be seen of the town. It is true, as I have
before stated, that some fine houses may be noticed on the base of the
mountain, but upon this road, the principal portion of the town is
built, and that cannot be seen from the water, owing to the houses being
built down to its edge, having their entrances from the "Road."
This avenue is wide, and well graded, having a fine carriage way and
_banquettes_ for pedestrians on either side.
The houses are mostly built of a beautiful light-colored granite, and
are of an imposing style of architecture. For a distance of nearly two
miles along this principal thoroughfare, you come, every few rods, upon
some public or private building that would do credit to any city. There
are large, commodious barracks, hospitals, ordnance storehouses,
interspersed with the dwellings of merchants, all built of this
solid-looking building material.
But the pride of the colony should be its club-house, which is the
finest looking building in the place of its style. It is very extensive,
and built of blocks of granite, with a splendid front, a façade
supported by a number of large granite pillars; and its interior
arrangements correspond with its external appearance.
Ascending by steps from the street, you enter, from a wide portico,
which extends along the entire front, upon a large open hall, in which
are entrances to different apartments--billiard rooms, writing, smoking,
and general reception rooms, and the superintendent's apartments. Two
wide flights of stairs bring you to the upper story, or _au premiér_ as
the French would call it.
Here are a suite of rooms, extending along the whole front, in which are
newspapers from all parts of the world, materials and tables for
writing, and all kinds of couches, divans, &c., for lounging. You can
step from these rooms upon a magnificent balcony, corresponding with the
porch below, where you can enjoy such refreshments as you may be
pleased to order, _al fresco_ if you choose.
Another large apartment is used as a restaurant, and in another place is
a fine library. Upon the floor above are sleeping apartments, baths,
&c., and the attic furnishes rooms for coolies and attendants.
Through the attention of our consul, we had the entrée and use of this
desirable place, and never did tired traveller enjoy the friendly
welcome of an inn, after a weary journey, more than I did this hall of
ease. Like the dove, I had found a resting-place from the waste of
waters, and loth, very loth was I to return to my home upon the deep.
With all its attractions, however, Victoria will never become a
desirable place of residence, on account of its insalubrity. Macào has
very much the advantage over it in this respect, as indeed in every
other, where natural causes are considered; and never was the difference
between races so apparent as in the position and condition of these two
settlements in China.
It cannot but be sickly in Hong-Kong in the summer season, and without
entering into explanations of the cause, I merely state the fact, that
during the summer of 1850, more than one-third of Her Majesty's
fifty-ninth regiment were cut off by diseases incident to the climate.
And the remark of an officer attached to Her Majesty's service, that it
was a fine place for _death vacancies_, has more truth than poetry in
it, I trow.
We were fêted and feasted here to our heart's content. Among those who
were most forward to do us honor, I must mention our own Consul, and
Mr. Burd, Consul of the Swedish government. These gentlemen, who did us
so much good, need hardly blush for this publicity of their deeds.
The officers of the Hastings gave a grand ball, to which our officers
were invited, whilst the "Heralds" proved by their kind attentions that
their cruise in the hyperborean regions of the North, had in nowise
chilled the warm current of their hearts.
A pic-nic had been gotten up for the eighteenth of December, but the
arrival of the mail on that day prevented many from attending, who
would otherwise have been glad to have explored the island in pleasant
company. As we only waited for our letters, as soon as they were
received we were forced to bid a reluctant adieu to hospitable
Hong-Kong.