Haifa, February 28.—The tourist who follows the ordinary track of
Palestine travel from Jerusalem to Damascus inevitably passes Tiberias.
Standing on the flat roof of the convent, where, if he is not one of a
Cook's party, he is compelled to lodge, he has a splendid view of the
lake and of the precipitous cliffs opposite, which descend abruptly to
its margin from the elevated plateau behind, that averages two thousand
feet above the level of the lake. That sheet of water being nearly eight
hundred feet below the sea-level, the only engineering problem which
presents itself to the consideration of the surveyors who have been
engaged in tracing a railroad line between Haifa and Damascus is how to
ascend from this depression to the highlands above.
The solution of the problem is to be found in a large wide valley called
the Wady Samak, which is exactly opposite Tiberias, and up the unknown
recesses of which our tourist looks with longing eyes. Practically this
wady is a sealed book to the Palestine traveller. To explore it he would
have to obtain special permission from the government, with a guard, and
be exposed to all manner of extortion from his dragoman, who would take
advantage of his ignorance to magnify the dangers and add to the already
existing obstacles. Indeed, one of the most singular characteristics of
Palestine travel is the close proximity of unknown and unexplored
districts to beaten tracks. Just as it often happens in a large city,
that in the immediate neighborhood of one of the most frequented
thoroughfares there are back slums inhabited by thieves and criminals,
into which no respectable person penetrates, so, in Palestine, within
ten miles of a place like Tiberias, there are spots as yet untrodden by
the foot of the explorer; but these are all to the east of the lake and
of the Jordan. Almost every inch of western Palestine has succumbed to
the exhaustive researches of the Palestine Exploration Fund.
It was on a gloomy winter afternoon that I found myself skirting the
eastern shore of the lake with the view of attacking the mysteries of
this interesting valley—interesting from a practical point of view,
because I wanted to look at the possible gradients which it might offer
for a railway, and still more interesting from an archæological point of
view, because I felt sure that in searching for gradients I should find
ruins. But the search was undertaken under difficulties. I was without a
tent, because my journey partook of the nature of an exploratory dash,
and a tent would have been an encumbrance. I was without a guide,
because my guide had deserted me in consequence of one of those
misunderstandings which are not uncommon between travellers and their
guides; but I had two companions, baggage animal and servant, and an
amiable soldier, upon whom, in case of trouble, it was supposed we
should be able to rely for protection and aid.
Owing to a variety of causes, principally arising from a desire to find
ruins where there were none, and to map certain wadys which are
incorrectly laid down in the maps, we were about two hours later than we
should have been when we reached the mouth of the wady. The clouds were
lowering ominously, there had been no sun all day, and now that luminary
seemed to have given up the attempt to shine upon us in despair, and to
have made up his mind, in a fit of disgust, to retire permanently to
rest. I felt, considering the journey up the unknown wady, which we
still had to perform without a guide before I could hope to reach a
resting-place (I did not look forward to its being much of a
sleeping-place), that it had no business to get dark so early. However,
it was still broad daylight, and we took our bearings by compass as
carefully as was possible, and were encouraged by observing that the
track we were on was a broad and well-beaten one, and which, as the
formation was white limestone, would show plainly even when it got dark.
The valley I knew to be about seven miles long. The village we were
bound for, the only village in it or near it, was at its head. We had
only to keep going straight up, and the path we were on would surely
lead us to it.
This fond delusion I hugged to my soul as we pushed on as rapidly as our
wearied steeds, which had been travelling since daybreak, would allow
us. The breadth of the valley in a bee-line from one edge of the plateau
above us to the other was not less than two miles. It was a broad
valley, with many shoulders running into it from both sides, and
terraces here and there of cultivated land, the crops the property of
wandering Bedouins, who come here in winter to sow them, and come back
in spring to gather them. Down the centre of the valley brawled, over a
rocky bed, a mountain brook, even in the dryest season a respectable
trout stream, and often after heavy rains an impassable torrent. On the
present occasion, however, it was behaving itself respectably, and gave
us no trouble. It was fringed with oleanders, and here and there
received tiny tributaries, which all helped to produce more vegetation
than is usual in Palestine valleys, and to enhance the beauty of scenery
the natural features of which were strikingly picturesque. As long as it
was light I could see natural terraces on the flanks of the valley, up
which it would be easy to take the line. Then I saw where long curves
must be taken, winding up lateral hollows, through which we could twist
the line up the two thousand feet it had to ascend, and lengthen out the
seven miles of the wady to a distance which would suffice for the
required gradient.
Assuredly when that long-looked-for and much-to-be-desired line is made,
the stretch up the Wady Samak will be one of the most romantic and
interesting sections upon it, while its well-watered slopes will
doubtless tempt the speculative agriculturist or stock-farmer to intrude
upon domains now appropriated by a few wandering Arabs, whose scanty
flocks might be increased tenfold without consuming half its pasture,
and who do not cultivate a tithe of its fertile soil.
While thus indulging in airy imaginings of the future, darkness
gradually closed in, and I became suddenly aware, as so often happens in
this world, that all my calculations would have been sound in regard to
my finding my way if they had not been based upon thoroughly delusive
premises. The cause of my error may be summed up in the one word,
basalt. I had forgotten one of the most remarkable geological features
of this part of the country, and this is, that only the lower stratum of
the range which rises from the east shore of Lake Tiberias is of
limestone. All the rest is basaltic, and this formation is of vast
thickness. The whole of this district is, indeed, an immense volcanic
field, consisting of irregular heaps of amorphous lava and
disintegrating scoriæ, with mounds of globular basalt. So that when
darkness came on everything below me, as well as all above, seemed
suddenly to have become as black as night. The path had disappeared as
if by magic, and I called a halt, and we found ourselves on a patch of
black rock, with exactly similar patches of black rock all around us.
The outlines of the hills had vanished, the path had led us up from the
bed of the torrent, so we no longer had that to guide us. To attempt to
descend to it would have been madness, as we might have fallen over a
precipice in the darkness; indeed, we were afraid to move, except with
extreme caution, in any direction. We had a compass and matches, and
knew that by keeping due south we might, if no accident befell us, and
the rocks permitted a passage, ultimately reach the plateau; but we also
knew that the direction of our night-quarters was due cast; but here we
ran the greater risk of tumbling into unknown transverse gorges with
precipitous cliffs. We cautiously worked south, but our progress soon
became barred by thorny brushwood, and we had to face the alternative of
a night out-of-doors without water or anything to drink, and a very
limited supply of food.
We were just bracing ourselves to this unpleasant prospect, when, in a
southwesterly direction, we suddenly saw a gleam of light; it lasted for
a moment, then seemed to go out. But that one ray was one of hope, and
we steered cautiously for it. We had been scrambling by compass in the
dark for about half an hour, and were just beginning to despair, when
the bark of a distant dog put new energy into us, and not long after,
around the shoulder of a hill, we came upon an encampment, and were
greeted by the furious yells of the mob of noisy curs which infest the
tents of the Bedouins. It was a startling apparition to burst upon these
nomads in their remote retreat—horsemen of a type they had never seen
before, and an armed soldier. Such children as were awake set up a
dismal squalling, the women cowered tremblingly over their camp-fires
under the pent roof of black camels' hair. All the side of the tent
being open, its whole internal economy was exposed to view, and enabled
us to judge of the slight protection in the way of bedding or clothing
or covering of any sort which was provided against the inclemency of the
season.
Meantime the men had gathered round us, half timidly, half
threateningly. The presence of the soldier suggested fear and suspicion,
while the smallness of our party encouraged the bolder ones to look
defiant. As far as I could make out in the darkness there were about a
dozen tents here in all—apparently the fag end of an insignificant tribe
whose name I forget. It was at first impossible to induce any one at
that late hour to act as guide. Even abundant offers of backshish failed
to shake their suspicion, which was to the effect that we wished to
decoy one into durance to act as a hostage until some arrears of taxes
which they owed the government should be paid up.
The other alternative was that we should take up our quarters in the
sheik's tent, whether he liked it or not, which, with a piercing wind
blowing, accompanied by sleet, was not a very pleasant prospect. He
seemed to relish it as little as we did, and finally consented to be our
guide as we made some silver gleam in the firelight. As he seized his
eighteen-foot lance and mounted his ragged steed he looked like some
Arab Don Quixote; and as the camp-fire threw its ruddy glow upon a group
of wild-looking women, with dishevelled hair and tattooed chins,
crooning over a pot like the witches of “Macbeth,” and upon barelegged
men, as they flitted to and fro between the black tents, I thought I had
seldom gazed upon a more weird and unreal-looking scene.
How our guide could find his way up the rocky hillside and across the
prairie remained a mystery during the long two hours that we followed
him. Of this I feel sure, that we scrambled up places in the dark that
we should never have thought of facing by daylight. The very horses
seemed to have become desperate, and to have abandoned themselves to
their fate. At last we dismounted and scaled the rocks like goats, every
one, man or beast, doing the best he could for himself on his own
account, and so at last, wearied and half-starved, for we had fasted for
about ten hours, we reached the goal of our endeavour, too tired to see
what an utterly miserable hole it was.
I passed a wretched night in a room in the middle of which a fire had
been built, which filled it with smoke, for it had no other exit but the
door, which it was too cold to keep open. Around the fire were stretched
fifteen Arabs, who quarrelled with a government official, whom they were
compelled to entertain, about their taxes, until they exhausted
themselves, and then they exchanged their discordant wrangling for no
less discordant snoring. After replenishing exhausted nature with the
eggs which was all that my host could provide me with, and a tin of
canned meat, I vainly tried to follow their example, but was too busily
occupied in scratching to think of anything but fleas, and so tossed and
tumbled and longed for the morning, when I proposed to enter upon a new
field of exploration, for this was the village of El-Al, where I had
heard that ruins existed; and as I had every reason to believe that in
ancient times this neighbourhood had been the centre of a large
population, I felt sure that they had left interesting traces, which
were yet to be discovered.