CHAPTER II

RIO DE JANEIRO

Rio de Janeiro--Excursion north of Cape Frio--Great

Evaporation--Slavery--Botofogo Bay--Terrestrial Planariae--Clouds on

the Corcovado--Heavy Rain--Musical Frogs--Phosphorescent

Insects--Elater, springing powers of--Blue Haze--Noise made by a

Butterfly--Entomology--Ants--Wasp killing a Spider--Parasitical

Spider--Artifices of an Epeira--Gregarious Spider--Spider with an

unsymmetrical Web.

APRIL 4th to July 5th, 1832.--A few days after our arrival I became

acquainted with an Englishman who was going to visit his estate,

situated rather more than a hundred miles from the capital, to the

northward of Cape Frio. I gladly accepted his kind offer of allowing

me to accompany him.

April 8th.--Our party amounted to seven. The first stage was very

interesting. The day was powerfully hot, and as we passed through the

woods, everything was motionless, excepting the large and brilliant

butterflies, which lazily fluttered about. The view seen when crossing

the hills behind Praia Grande was most beautiful; the colours were

intense, and the prevailing tint a dark blue; the sky and the calm

waters of the bay vied with each other in splendour. After passing

through some cultivated country, we entered a forest, which in the

grandeur of all its parts could not be exceeded. We arrived by midday

at Ithacaia; this small village is situated on a plain, and round the

central house are the huts of the negroes. These, from their regular

form and position, reminded me of the drawings of the Hottentot

habitations in Southern Africa. As the moon rose early, we determined

to start the same evening for our sleeping-place at the Lagoa Marica.

As it was growing dark we passed under one of the massive, bare, and

steep hills of granite which are so common in this country. This spot

is notorious from having been, for a long time, the residence of some

runaway slaves, who, by cultivating a little ground near the top,

contrived to eke out a subsistence. At length they were discovered,

and a party of soldiers being sent, the whole were seized with the

exception of one old woman, who, sooner than again be led into slavery,

dashed herself to pieces from the summit of the mountain. In a Roman

matron this would have been called the noble love of freedom: in a poor

negress it is mere brutal obstinacy. We continued riding for some

hours. For the few last miles the road was intricate, and it passed

through a desert waste of marshes and lagoons. The scene by the dimmed

light of the moon was most desolate. A few fireflies flitted by us;

and the solitary snipe, as it rose, uttered its plaintive cry. The

distant and sullen roar of the sea scarcely broke the stillness of the

night.

April 9th.--We left our miserable sleeping-place before sunrise. The

road passed through a narrow sandy plain, lying between the sea and the

interior salt lagoons. The number of beautiful fishing birds, such as

egrets and cranes, and the succulent plants assuming most fantastical

forms, gave to the scene an interest which it would not otherwise have

possessed. The few stunted trees were loaded with parasitical plants,

among which the beauty and delicious fragrance of some of the orchideae

were most to be admired. As the sun rose, the day became extremely hot,

and the reflection of the light and heat from the white sand was very

distressing. We dined at Mandetiba; the thermometer in the shade being

84 degs. The beautiful view of the distant wooded hills, reflected in

the perfectly calm water of an extensive lagoon, quite refreshed us. As

the venda [1] here was a very good one, and I have the pleasant, but

rare remembrance, of an excellent dinner, I will be grateful and

presently describe it, as the type of its class. These houses are

often large, and are built of thick upright posts, with boughs

interwoven, and afterwards plastered. They seldom have floors, and

never glazed windows; but are generally pretty well roofed. Universally

the front part is open, forming a kind of verandah, in which tables and

benches are placed. The bed-rooms join on each side, and here the

passenger may sleep as comfortably as he can, on a wooden platform,

covered by a thin straw mat. The venda stands in a courtyard, where

the horses are fed. On first arriving it was our custom to unsaddle

the horses and give them their Indian corn; then, with a low bow, to

ask the senhor to do us the favour to give up something to eat.

"Anything you choose, sir," was his usual answer. For the few first

times, vainly I thanked providence for having guided us to so good a

man. The conversation proceeding, the case universally became

deplorable. "Any fish can you do us the favour of giving ?"--"Oh! no,

sir."--"Any soup?"--"No, sir."--"Any bread?"--"Oh! no, sir."--"Any

dried meat?"--"Oh! no, sir." If we were lucky, by waiting a couple of

hours, we obtained fowls, rice, and farinha. It not unfrequently

happened, that we were obliged to kill, with stones, the poultry for

our own supper. When, thoroughly exhausted by fatigue and hunger, we

timorously hinted that we should be glad of our meal, the pompous, and

(though true) most unsatisfactory answer was, "It will be ready when it

is ready." If we had dared to remonstrate any further, we should have

been told to proceed on our journey, as being too impertinent. The

hosts are most ungracious and disagreeable in their manners; their

houses and their persons are often filthily dirty; the want of the

accommodation of forks, knives, and spoons is common; and I am sure no

cottage or hovel in England could be found in a state so utterly

destitute of every comfort. At Campos Novos, however, we fared

sumptuously; having rice and fowls, biscuit, wine, and spirits, for

dinner; coffee in the evening, and fish with coffee for breakfast. All

this, with good food for the horses, only cost 2s. 6d. per head. Yet

the host of this venda, being asked if he knew anything of a whip which

one of the party had lost, gruffly answered, "How should I know? why

did you not take care of it?--I suppose the dogs have eaten it."

Leaving Mandetiba, we continued to pass through an intricate wilderness

of lakes; in some of which were fresh, in others salt water shells. Of

the former kinds, I found a Limnaea in great numbers in a lake, into

which, the inhabitants assured me that the sea enters once a year, and

sometimes oftener, and makes the water quite salt. I have no doubt

many interesting facts, in relation to marine and fresh water animals,

might be observed in this chain of lagoons, which skirt the coast of

Brazil. M. Gay [2] has stated that he found in the neighbourhood of

Rio, shells of the marine genera solen and mytilus, and fresh water

ampullariae, living together in brackish water. I also frequently

observed in the lagoon near the Botanic Garden, where the water is only

a little less salt than in the sea, a species of hydrophilus, very

similar to a water-beetle common in the ditches of England: in the same

lake the only shell belonged to a genus generally found in estuaries.

Leaving the coast for a time, we again entered the forest. The trees

were very lofty, and remarkable, compared with those of Europe, from

the whiteness of their trunks. I see by my note-book, "wonderful and

beautiful, flowering parasites," invariably struck me as the most novel

object in these grand scenes. Travelling onwards we passed through

tracts of pasturage, much injured by the enormous conical ants' nests,

which were nearly twelve feet high. They gave to the plain exactly the

appearance of the mud volcanos at Jorullo, as figured by Humboldt. We

arrived at Engenhodo after it was dark, having been ten hours on

horseback. I never ceased, during the whole journey, to be surprised

at the amount of labour which the horses were capable of enduring; they

appeared also to recover from any injury much sooner than those of our

English breed. The Vampire bat is often the cause of much trouble, by

biting the horses on their withers. The injury is generally not so

much owing to the loss of blood, as to the inflammation which the

pressure of the saddle afterwards produces. The whole circumstance has

lately been doubted in England; I was therefore fortunate in being

present when one (Desmodus d'orbignyi, Wat.) was actually caught on a

horse's back. We were bivouacking late one evening near Coquimbo, in

Chile, when my servant, noticing that one of the horses was very

restive, went to see what was the matter, and fancying he could

distinguish something, suddenly put his hand on the beast's withers,

and secured the vampire. In the morning the spot where the bite had

been inflicted was easily distinguished from being slightly swollen and

bloody. The third day afterwards we rode the horse, without any ill

effects.

April 13th.--After three days' travelling we arrived at Socego, the

estate of Senhor Manuel Figuireda, a relation of one of our party. The

house was simple, and, though like a barn in form, was well suited to

the climate. In the sitting-room gilded chairs and sofas were oddly

contrasted with the whitewashed walls, thatched roof, and windows

without glass. The house, together with the granaries, the stables,

and workshops for the blacks, who had been taught various trades,

formed a rude kind of quadrangle; in the centre of which a large pile

of coffee was drying. These buildings stand on a little hill,

overlooking the cultivated ground, and surrounded on every side by a

wall of dark green luxuriant forest. The chief produce of this part of

the country is coffee. Each tree is supposed to yield annually, on an

average, two pounds; but some give as much as eight. Mandioca or

cassada is likewise cultivated in great quantity. Every part of this

plant is useful; the leaves and stalks are eaten by the horses, and the

roots are ground into a pulp, which, when pressed dry and baked, forms

the farinha, the principal article of sustenance in the Brazils. It is

a curious, though well-known fact, that the juice of this most

nutritious plant is highly poisonous. A few years ago a cow died at

this Fazenda, in consequence of having drunk some of it. Senhor

Figuireda told me that he had planted, the year before, one bag of

feijao or beans, and three of rice; the former of which produced

eighty, and the latter three hundred and twenty fold. The pasturage

supports a fine stock of cattle, and the woods are so full of game that

a deer had been killed on each of the three previous days. This

profusion of food showed itself at dinner, where, if the tables did not

groan, the guests surely did; for each person is expected to eat of

every dish. One day, having, as I thought, nicely calculated so that

nothing should go away untasted, to my utter dismay a roast turkey and

a pig appeared in all their substantial reality. During the meals, it

was the employment of a man to drive out of the room sundry old hounds,

and dozens of little black children, which crawled in together, at

every opportunity. As long as the idea of slavery could be banished,

there was something exceedingly fascinating in this simple and

patriarchal style of living: it was such a perfect retirement and

independence from the rest of the world.

As soon as any stranger is seen arriving, a large bell is set tolling,

and generally some small cannon are fired. The event is thus announced

to the rocks and woods, but to nothing else. One morning I walked out

an hour before daylight to admire the solemn stillness of the scene; at

last, the silence was broken by the morning hymn, raised on high by the

whole body of the blacks; and in this manner their daily work is

generally begun. On such fazendas as these, I have no doubt the slaves

pass happy and contented lives. On Saturday and Sunday they work for

themselves, and in this fertile climate the labour of two days is

sufficient to support a man and his family for the whole week.

April 14th.--Leaving Socego, we rode to another estate on the Rio

Macae, which was the last patch of cultivated ground in that direction.

The estate was two and a half miles long, and the owner had forgotten

how many broad. Only a very small piece had been cleared, yet almost

every acre was capable of yielding all the various rich productions of

a tropical land. Considering the enormous area of Brazil, the

proportion of cultivated ground can scarcely be considered as anything,

compared to that which is left in the state of nature: at some future

age, how vast a population it will support! During the second day's

journey we found the road so shut up, that it was necessary that a man

should go ahead with a sword to cut away the creepers. The forest

abounded with beautiful objects; among which the tree ferns, though not

large, were, from their bright green foliage, and the elegant curvature

of their fronds, most worthy of admiration. In the evening it rained

very heavily, and although the thermometer stood at 65 degs., I felt

very cold. As soon as the rain ceased, it was curious to observe the

extraordinary evaporation which commenced over the whole extent of the

forest. At the height of a hundred feet the hills were buried in a

dense white vapour, which rose like columns of smoke from the most

thickly wooded parts, and especially from the valleys. I observed this

phenomenon on several occasions. I suppose it is owing to the large

surface of foliage, previously heated by the sun's rays.

While staying at this estate, I was very nearly being an eye-witness to

one of those atrocious acts which can only take place in a slave

country. Owing to a quarrel and a lawsuit, the owner was on the point

of taking all the women and children from the male slaves, and selling

them separately at the public auction at Rio. Interest, and not any

feeling of compassion, prevented this act. Indeed, I do not believe

the inhumanity of separating thirty families, who had lived together

for many years, even occurred to the owner. Yet I will pledge myself,

that in humanity and good feeling he was superior to the common run of

men. It may be said there exists no limit to the blindness of interest

and selfish habit. I may mention one very trifling anecdote, which at

the time struck me more forcibly than any story of cruelty. I was

crossing a ferry with a negro, who was uncommonly stupid. In

endeavouring to make him understand, I talked loud, and made signs, in

doing which I passed my hand near his face. He, I suppose, thought I

was in a passion, and was going to strike him; for instantly, with a

frightened look and half-shut eyes, he dropped his hands. I shall

never forget my feelings of surprise, disgust, and shame, at seeing a

great powerful man afraid even to ward off a blow, directed, as he

thought, at his face. This man had been trained to a degradation lower

than the slavery of the most helpless animal.

April 18th.--In returning we spent two days at Socego, and I employed

them in collecting insects in the forest. The greater number of trees,

although so lofty, are not more than three or four feet in

circumference. There are, of course, a few of much greater dimensions.

Senhor Manuel was then making a canoe 70 feet in length from a solid

trunk, which had originally been 110 feet long, and of great thickness.

The contrast of palm trees, growing amidst the common branching kinds,

never fails to give the scene an intertropical character. Here the

woods were ornamented by the Cabbage Palm--one of the most beautiful of

its family. With a stem so narrow that it might be clasped with the

two hands, it waves its elegant head at the height of forty or fifty

feet above the ground. The woody creepers, themselves covered by other

creepers, were of great thickness: some which I measured were two feet

in circumference. Many of the older trees presented a very curious

appearance from the tresses of a liana hanging from their boughs, and

resembling bundles of hay. If the eye was turned from the world of

foliage above, to the ground beneath, it was attracted by the extreme

elegance of the leaves of the ferns and mimosae. The latter, in some

parts, covered the surface with a brushwood only a few inches high. In

walking across these thick beds of mimosae, a broad track was marked by

the change of shade, produced by the drooping of their sensitive

petioles. It is easy to specify the individual objects of admiration in

these grand scenes; but it is not possible to give an adequate idea of

the higher feelings of wonder, astonishment, and devotion, which fill

and elevate the mind.

April 19th.--Leaving Socego, during the two first days, we retraced our

steps. It was very wearisome work, as the road generally ran across a

glaring hot sandy plain, not far from the coast. I noticed that each

time the horse put its foot on the fine siliceous sand, a gentle

chirping noise was produced. On the third day we took a different

line, and passed through the gay little village of Madre de Deos. This

is one of the principal lines of road in Brazil; yet it was in so bad a

state that no wheeled vehicle, excepting the clumsy bullock-wagon,

could pass along. In our whole journey we did not cross a single

bridge built of stone; and those made of logs of wood were frequently

so much out of repair, that it was necessary to go on one side to avoid

them. All distances are inaccurately known. The road is often marked

by crosses, in the place of milestones, to signify where human blood

has been spilled. On the evening of the 23rd we arrived at Rio, having

finished our pleasant little excursion.

During the remainder of my stay at Rio, I resided in a cottage at

Botofogo Bay. It was impossible to wish for anything more delightful

than thus to spend some weeks in so magnificent a country. In England

any person fond of natural history enjoys in his walks a great

advantage, by always having something to attract his attention; but in

these fertile climates, teeming with life, the attractions are so

numerous, that he is scarcely able to walk at all.

The few observations which I was enabled to make were almost

exclusively confined to the invertebrate animals. The existence of a

division of the genus Planaria, which inhabits the dry land, interested

me much. These animals are of so simple a structure, that Cuvier has

arranged them with the intestinal worms, though never found within the

bodies of other animals. Numerous species inhabit both salt and fresh

water; but those to which I allude were found, even in the drier parts

of the forest, beneath logs of rotten wood, on which I believe they

feed. In general form they resemble little slugs, but are very much

narrower in proportion, and several of the species are beautifully

coloured with longitudinal stripes. Their structure is very simple:

near the middle of the under or crawling surface there are two small

transverse slits, from the anterior one of which a funnel-shaped and

highly irritable mouth can be protruded. For some time after the rest

of the animal was completely dead from the effects of salt water or any

other cause, this organ still retained its vitality.

I found no less than twelve different species of terrestrial Planariae

in different parts of the southern hemisphere. [3] Some specimens which

I obtained at Van Dieman's Land, I kept alive for nearly two months,

feeding them on rotten wood. Having cut one of them transversely into

two nearly equal parts, in the course of a fortnight both had the shape

of perfect animals. I had, however, so divided the body, that one of

the halves contained both the inferior orifices, and the other, in

consequence, none. In the course of twenty-five days from the

operation, the more perfect half could not have been distinguished from

any other specimen. The other had increased much in size; and towards

its posterior end, a clear space was formed in the parenchymatous mass,

in which a rudimentary cup-shaped mouth could clearly be distinguished;

on the under surface, however, no corresponding slit was yet open. If

the increased heat of the weather, as we approached the equator, had

not destroyed all the individuals, there can be no doubt that this last

step would have completed its structure. Although so well-known an

experiment, it was interesting to watch the gradual production of every

essential organ, out of the simple extremity of another animal. It is

extremely difficult to preserve these Planariae; as soon as the

cessation of life allows the ordinary laws of change to act, their

entire bodies become soft and fluid, with a rapidity which I have never

seen equalled.

I first visited the forest in which these Planariae were found, in

company with an old Portuguese priest who took me out to hunt with him.

The sport consisted in turning into the cover a few dogs, and then

patiently waiting to fire at any animal which might appear. We were

accompanied by the son of a neighbouring farmer--a good specimen of a

wild Brazilian youth. He was dressed in a tattered old shirt and

trousers, and had his head uncovered: he carried an old-fashioned gun

and a large knife. The habit of carrying the knife is universal; and

in traversing a thick wood it is almost necessary, on account of the

creeping plants. The frequent occurrence of murder may be partly

attributed to this habit. The Brazilians are so dexterous with the

knife, that they can throw it to some distance with precision, and with

sufficient force to cause a fatal wound. I have seen a number of

little boys practising this art as a game of play and from their skill

in hitting an upright stick, they promised well for more earnest

attempts. My companion, the day before, had shot two large bearded

monkeys. These animals have prehensile tails, the extremity of which,

even after death, can support the whole weight of the body. One of

them thus remained fast to a branch, and it was necessary to cut down a

large tree to procure it. This was soon effected, and down came tree

and monkey with an awful crash. Our day's sport, besides the monkey,

was confined to sundry small green parrots and a few toucans. I

profited, however, by my acquaintance with the Portuguese padre, for on

another occasion he gave me a fine specimen of the Yagouaroundi cat.

Every one has heard of the beauty of the scenery near Botofogo. The

house in which I lived was seated close beneath the well-known mountain

of the Corcovado. It has been remarked, with much truth, that abruptly

conical hills are characteristic of the formation which Humboldt

designates as gneiss-granite. Nothing can be more striking than the

effect of these huge rounded masses of naked rock rising out of the

most luxuriant vegetation.

I was often interested by watching the clouds, which, rolling in from

seaward, formed a bank just beneath the highest point of the Corcovado.

This mountain, like most others, when thus partly veiled, appeared to

rise to a far prouder elevation than its real height of 2300 feet. Mr.

Daniell has observed, in his meteorological essays, that a cloud

sometimes appears fixed on a mountain summit, while the wind continues

to blow over it. The same phenomenon here presented a slightly

different appearance. In this case the cloud was clearly seen to curl

over, and rapidly pass by the summit, and yet was neither diminished

nor increased in size. The sun was setting, and a gentle southerly

breeze, striking against the southern side of the rock, mingled its

current with the colder air above; and the vapour was thus condensed;

but as the light wreaths of cloud passed over the ridge, and came

within the influence of the warmer atmosphere of the northern sloping

bank, they were immediately re-dissolved.

The climate, during the months of May and June, or the beginning of

winter, was delightful. The mean temperature, from observations taken

at nine o'clock, both morning and evening, was only 72 degs. It often

rained heavily, but the drying southerly winds soon again rendered the

walks pleasant. One morning, in the course of six hours, 1.6 inches of

rain fell. As this storm passed over the forests which surround the

Corcovado, the sound produced by the drops pattering on the countless

multitude of leaves was very remarkable, it could be heard at the

distance of a quarter of a mile, and was like the rushing of a great

body of water. After the hotter days, it was delicious to sit quietly

in the garden and watch the evening pass into night. Nature, in these

climes, chooses her vocalists from more humble performers than in

Europe. A small frog, of the genus Hyla, sits on a blade of grass

about an inch above the surface of the water, and sends forth a

pleasing chirp: when several are together they sing in harmony on

different notes. I had some difficulty in catching a specimen of this

frog. The genus Hyla has its toes terminated by small suckers; and I

found this animal could crawl up a pane of glass, when placed

absolutely perpendicular. Various cicidae and crickets, at the same

time, keep up a ceaseless shrill cry, but which, softened by the

distance, is not unpleasant. Every evening after dark this great

concert commenced; and often have I sat listening to it, until my

attention has been drawn away by some curious passing insect.

At these times the fireflies are seen flitting about from hedge to

hedge. On a dark night the light can be seen at about two hundred

paces distant. It is remarkable that in all the different kinds of

glowworms, shining elaters, and various marine animals (such as the

crustacea, medusae, nereidae, a coralline of the genus Clytia, and

Pyrosma), which I have observed, the light has been of a well-marked

green colour. All the fireflies, which I caught here, belonged to the

Lampyridae (in which family the English glowworm is included), and the

greater number of specimens were of Lampyris occidentalis. [4] I found

that this insect emitted the most brilliant flashes when irritated: in

the intervals, the abdominal rings were obscured. The flash was almost

co-instantaneous in the two rings, but it was just perceptible first in

the anterior one. The shining matter was fluid and very adhesive:

little spots, where the skin had been torn, continued bright with a

slight scintillation, whilst the uninjured parts were obscured. When

the insect was decapitated the rings remained uninterruptedly bright,

but not so brilliant as before: local irritation with a needle always

increased the vividness of the light. The rings in one instance

retained their luminous property nearly twenty-four hours after the

death of the insect. From these facts it would appear probable, that

the animal has only the power of concealing or extinguishing the light

for short intervals, and that at other times the display is

involuntary. On the muddy and wet gravel-walks I found the larvae of

this lampyris in great numbers: they resembled in general form the

female of the English glowworm. These larvae possessed but feeble

luminous powers; very differently from their parents, on the slightest

touch they feigned death and ceased to shine; nor did irritation excite

any fresh display. I kept several of them alive for some time: their

tails are very singular organs, for they act, by a well-fitted

contrivance, as suckers or organs of attachment, and likewise as

reservoirs for saliva, or some such fluid. I repeatedly fed them on

raw meat; and I invariably observed, that every now and then the

extremity of the tail was applied to the mouth, and a drop of fluid

exuded on the meat, which was then in the act of being consumed. The

tail, notwithstanding so much practice, does not seem to be able to

find its way to the mouth; at least the neck was always touched first,

and apparently as a guide.

When we were at Bahia, an elater or beetle (Pyrophorus luminosus,

Illig.) seemed the most common luminous insect. The light in this case

was also rendered more brilliant by irritation. I amused myself one

day by observing the springing powers of this insect, which have not,

as it appears to me, been properly described. [5] The elater, when

placed on its back and preparing to spring, moved its head and thorax

backwards, so that the pectoral spine was drawn out, and rested on the

edge of its sheath. The same backward movement being continued, the

spine, by the full action of the muscles, was bent like a spring; and

the insect at this moment rested on the extremity of its head and

wing-cases. The effort being suddenly relaxed, the head and thorax flew

up, and in consequence, the base of the wing-cases struck the

supporting surface with such force, that the insect by the reaction was

jerked upwards to the height of one or two inches. The projecting

points of the thorax, and the sheath of the spine, served to steady the

whole body during the spring. In the descriptions which I have read,

sufficient stress does not appear to have been laid on the elasticity

of the spine: so sudden a spring could not be the result of simple

muscular contraction, without the aid of some mechanical contrivance.

On several occasions I enjoyed some short but most pleasant excursions

in the neighbouring country. One day I went to the Botanic Garden,

where many plants, well known for their great utility, might be seen

growing. The leaves of the camphor, pepper, cinnamon, and clove trees

were delightfully aromatic; and the bread-fruit, the jaca, and the

mango, vied with each other in the magnificence of their foliage. The

landscape in the neighbourhood of Bahia almost takes its character from

the two latter trees. Before seeing them, I had no idea that any trees

could cast so black a shade on the ground. Both of them bear to the

evergreen vegetation of these climates the same kind of relation which

laurels and hollies in England do to the lighter green of the deciduous

trees. It may be observed, that the houses within the tropics are

surrounded by the most beautiful forms of vegetation, because many of

them are at the same time most useful to man. Who can doubt that these

qualities are united in the banana, the cocoa-nut, the many kinds of

palm, the orange, and the bread-fruit tree?

During this day I was particularly struck with a remark of Humboldt's,

who often alludes to "the thin vapour which, without changing the

transparency of the air, renders its tints more harmonious, and softens

its effects." This is an appearance which I have never observed in the

temperate zones. The atmosphere, seen through a short space of half or

three-quarters of a mile, was perfectly lucid, but at a greater

distance all colours were blended into a most beautiful haze, of a pale

French grey, mingled with a little blue. The condition of the

atmosphere between the morning and about noon, when the effect was most

evident, had undergone little change, excepting in its dryness. In the

interval, the difference between the dew point and temperature had

increased from 7.5 to 17 degs.

On another occasion I started early and walked to the Gavia, or topsail

mountain. The air was delightfully cool and fragrant; and the drops of

dew still glittered on the leaves of the large liliaceous plants, which

shaded the streamlets of clear water. Sitting down on a block of

granite, it was delightful to watch the various insects and birds as

they flew past. The humming-bird seems particularly fond of such shady

retired spots. Whenever I saw these little creatures buzzing round a

flower, with their wings vibrating so rapidly as to be scarcely

visible, I was reminded of the sphinx moths: their movements and habits

are indeed in many respects very similar.

Following a pathway, I entered a noble forest, and from a height of

five or six hundred feet, one of those splendid views was presented,

which are so common on every side of Rio. At this elevation the

landscape attains its most brilliant tint; and every form, every shade,

so completely surpasses in magnificence all that the European has ever

beheld in his own country, that he knows not how to express his

feelings. The general effect frequently recalled to my mind the gayest

scenery of the Opera-house or the great theatres. I never returned

from these excursions empty-handed. This day I found a specimen of a

curious fungus, called Hymenophallus. Most people know the English

Phallus, which in autumn taints the air with its odious smell: this,

however, as the entomologist is aware, is, to some of our beetles a

delightful fragrance. So was it here; for a Strongylus, attracted by

the odour, alighted on the fungus as I carried it in my hand. We here

see in two distant countries a similar relation between plants and

insects of the same families, though the species of both are different.

When man is the agent in introducing into a country a new species, this

relation is often broken: as one instance of this I may mention, that

the leaves of the cabbages and lettuces, which in England afford food

to such a multitude of slugs and caterpillars, in the gardens near Rio

are untouched.

During our stay at Brazil I made a large collection of insects. A few

general observations on the comparative importance of the different

orders may be interesting to the English entomologist. The large and

brilliantly coloured Lepidoptera bespeak the zone they inhabit, far

more plainly than any other race of animals. I allude only to the

butterflies; for the moths, contrary to what might have been expected

from the rankness of the vegetation, certainly appeared in much fewer

numbers than in our own temperate regions. I was much surprised at the

habits of Papilio feronia. This butterfly is not uncommon, and

generally frequents the orange-groves. Although a high flier, yet it

very frequently alights on the trunks of trees. On these occasions its

head is invariably placed downwards; and its wings are expanded in a

horizontal plane, instead of being folded vertically, as is commonly

the case. This is the only butterfly which I have ever seen, that uses

its legs for running. Not being aware of this fact, the insect, more

than once, as I cautiously approached with my forceps, shuffled on one

side just as the instrument was on the point of closing, and thus

escaped. But a far more singular fact is the power which this species

possesses of making a noise. [6] Several times when a pair, probably

male and female, were chasing each other in an irregular course, they

passed within a few yards of me; and I distinctly heard a clicking

noise, similar to that produced by a toothed wheel passing under a

spring catch. The noise was continued at short intervals, and could be

distinguished at about twenty yards' distance: I am certain there is no

error in the observation.

I was disappointed in the general aspect of the Coleoptera. The number

of minute and obscurely coloured beetles is exceedingly great. [7] The

cabinets of Europe can, as yet, boast only of the larger species from

tropical climates. It is sufficient to disturb the composure of an

entomologist's mind, to look forward to the future dimensions of a

complete catalogue. The carnivorous beetles, or Carabidae, appear in

extremely few numbers within the tropics: this is the more remarkable

when compared to the case of the carnivorous quadrupeds, which are so

abundant in hot countries. I was struck with this observation both on

entering Brazil, and when I saw the many elegant and active forms of

the Harpalidae re-appearing on the temperate plains of La Plata. Do

the very numerous spiders and rapacious Hymenoptera supply the place of

the carnivorous beetles? The carrion-feeders and Brachelytra are very

uncommon; on the other hand, the Rhyncophora and Chrysomelidae, all of

which depend on the vegetable world for subsistence, are present in

astonishing numbers. I do not here refer to the number of different

species, but to that of the individual insects; for on this it is that

the most striking character in the entomology of different countries

depends. The orders Orthoptera and Hemiptera are particularly

numerous; as likewise is the stinging division of the Hymenoptera the

bees, perhaps, being excepted. A person, on first entering a tropical

forest, is astonished at the labours of the ants: well-beaten paths

branch off in every direction, on which an army of never-failing

foragers may be seen, some going forth, and others returning, burdened

with pieces of green leaf, often larger than their own bodies.

A small dark-coloured ant sometimes migrates in countless numbers. One

day, at Bahia, my attention was drawn by observing many spiders,

cockroaches, and other insects, and some lizards, rushing in the

greatest agitation across a bare piece of ground. A little way behind,

every stalk and leaf was blackened by a small ant. The swarm having

crossed the bare space, divided itself, and descended an old wall. By

this means many insects were fairly enclosed; and the efforts which the

poor little creatures made to extricate themselves from such a death

were wonderful. When the ants came to the road they changed their

course, and in narrow files reascended the wall. Having placed a small

stone so as to intercept one of the lines, the whole body attacked it,

and then immediately retired. Shortly afterwards another body came to

the charge, and again having failed to make any impression, this line

of march was entirely given up. By going an inch round, the file might

have avoided the stone, and this doubtless would have happened, if it

had been originally there: but having been attacked, the lion-hearted

little warriors scorned the idea of yielding.

Certain wasp-like insects, which construct in the corners of the

verandahs clay cells for their larvae, are very numerous in the

neighbourhood of Rio. These cells they stuff full of half-dead spiders

and caterpillars, which they seem wonderfully to know how to sting to

that degree as to leave them paralysed but alive, until their eggs are

hatched; and the larvae feed on the horrid mass of powerless,

half-killed victims--a sight which has been described by an

enthusiastic naturalist [8] as curious and pleasing! I was much

interested one day by watching a deadly contest between a Pepsis and a

large spider of the genus Lycosa. The wasp made a sudden dash at its

prey, and then flew away: the spider was evidently wounded, for, trying

to escape, it rolled down a little slope, but had still strength

sufficient to crawl into a thick tuft of grass. The wasp soon

returned, and seemed surprised at not immediately finding its victim.

It then commenced as regular a hunt as ever hound did after fox; making

short semicircular casts, and all the time rapidly vibrating its wings

and antennae. The spider, though well concealed, was soon discovered,

and the wasp, evidently still afraid of its adversary's jaws, after

much manoeuvring, inflicted two stings on the under side of its thorax.

At last, carefully examining with its antennae the now motionless

spider, it proceeded to drag away the body. But I stopped both tyrant

and prey. [9]

The number of spiders, in proportion to other insects, is here compared

with England very much larger; perhaps more so than with any other

division of the articulate animals. The variety of species among the

jumping spiders appears almost infinite. The genus, or rather family,

of Epeira, is here characterized by many singular forms; some species

have pointed coriaceous shells, others enlarged and spiny tibiae. Every

path in the forest is barricaded with the strong yellow web of a

species, belonging to the same division with the Epeira clavipes of

Fabricius, which was formerly said by Sloane to make, in the West

Indies, webs so strong as to catch birds. A small and pretty kind of

spider, with very long fore-legs, and which appears to belong to an

undescribed genus, lives as a parasite on almost every one of these

webs. I suppose it is too insignificant to be noticed by the great

Epeira, and is therefore allowed to prey on the minute insects, which,

adhering to the lines, would otherwise be wasted. When frightened,

this little spider either feigns death by extending its front legs, or

suddenly drops from the web. A large Epeira of the same division with

Epeira tuberculata and conica is extremely common, especially in dry

situations. Its web, which is generally placed among the great leaves

of the common agave, is sometimes strengthened near the centre by a

pair or even four zigzag ribbons, which connect two adjoining rays.

When any large insect, as a grasshopper or wasp, is caught, the spider,

by a dexterous movement, makes it revolve very rapidly, and at the same

time emitting a band of threads from its spinners, soon envelops its

prey in a case like the cocoon of a silkworm. The spider now examines

the powerless victim, and gives the fatal bite on the hinder part of

its thorax; then retreating, patiently waits till the poison has taken

effect. The virulence of this poison may be judged of from the fact

that in half a minute I opened the mesh, and found a large wasp quite

lifeless. This Epeira always stands with its head downwards near the

centre of the web. When disturbed, it acts differently according to

circumstances: if there is a thicket below, it suddenly falls down; and

I have distinctly seen the thread from the spinners lengthened by the

animal while yet stationary, as preparatory to its fall. If the ground

is clear beneath, the Epeira seldom falls, but moves quickly through a

central passage from one to the other side. When still further

disturbed, it practises a most curious manoeuvre: standing in the

middle, it violently jerks the web, which it attached to elastic twigs,

till at last the whole acquires such a rapid vibratory movement, that

even the outline of the spider's body becomes indistinct.

It is well known that most of the British spiders, when a large insect

is caught in their webs, endeavour to cut the lines and liberate their

prey, to save their nets from being entirely spoiled. I once, however,

saw in a hothouse in Shropshire a large female wasp caught in the

irregular web of a quite small spider; and this spider, instead of

cutting the web, most perseveringly continued to entangle the body, and

especially the wings, of its prey. The wasp at first aimed in vain

repeated thrusts with its sting at its little antagonist. Pitying the

wasp, after allowing it to struggle for more than an hour, I killed it

and put it back into the web. The spider soon returned; and an hour

afterwards I was much surprised to find it with its jaws buried in the

orifice, through which the sting is protruded by the living wasp. I

drove the spider away two or three times, but for the next twenty-four

hours I always found it again sucking at the same place. The spider

became much distended by the juices of its prey, which was many times

larger than itself.

I may here just mention, that I found, near St. Fe Bajada, many large

black spiders, with ruby-coloured marks on their backs, having

gregarious habits. The webs were placed vertically, as is invariably

the case with the genus Epeira: they were separated from each other by

a space of about two feet, but were all attached to certain common

lines, which were of great length, and extended to all parts of the

community. In this manner the tops of some large bushes were

encompassed by the united nets. Azara [10] has described a gregarious

spider in Paraguay, which Walckanaer thinks must be a Theridion, but

probably it is an Epeira, and perhaps even the same species with mine.

I cannot, however, recollect seeing a central nest as large as a hat,

in which, during autumn, when the spiders die, Azara says the eggs are

deposited. As all the spiders which I saw were of the same size, they

must have been nearly of the same age. This gregarious habit, in so

typical a genus as Epeira, among insects, which are so bloodthirsty and

solitary that even the two sexes attack each other, is a very singular

fact.

In a lofty valley of the Cordillera, near Mendoza, I found another

spider with a singularly-formed web. Strong lines radiated in a

vertical plane from a common centre, where the insect had its station;

but only two of the rays were connected by a symmetrical mesh-work; so

that the net, instead of being, as is generally the case, circular,

consisted of a wedge-shaped segment. All the webs were similarly

constructed.

[1] Venda, the Portuguese name for an inn.

[2] Annales des Sciences Naturelles for 1833.

[3] I have described and named these species in the Annals of Nat.

Hist., vol. xiv. p. 241.

[4] I am greatly indebted to Mr. Waterhouse for his kindness in naming

for me this and many other insects, and giving me much valuable

assistance.

[5] Kirby's Entomology, vol. ii. p. 317.

[6] Mr. Doubleday has lately described (before the Entomological

Society, March 3rd, 1845) a peculiar structure in the wings of this

butterfly, which seems to be the means of its making its noise. He

says, "It is remarkable for having a sort of drum at the base of the

fore wings, between the costal nervure and the subcostal. These two

nervures, moreover, have a peculiar screw-like diaphragm or vessel in

the interior." I find in Langsdorff's travels (in the years 1803-7, p.

74) it is said, that in the island of St. Catherine's on the coast of

Brazil, a butterfly called Februa Hoffmanseggi, makes a noise, when

flying away, like a rattle.

[7] I may mention, as a common instance of one day's (June 23rd)

collecting, when I was not attending particularly to the Coleoptera,

that I caught sixty-eight species of that order. Among these, there

were only two of the Carabidae, four Brachelytra, fifteen Rhyncophora,

and fourteen of the Chrysomelidae. Thirty-seven species of Arachnidae,

which I brought home, will be sufficient to prove that I was not paying

overmuch attention to the generally favoured order of Coleoptera.

[8] In a MS. in the British Museum by Mr. Abbott, who made his

observations in Georgia; see Mr. A. White's paper in the "Annals of

Nat. Hist.," vol. vii. p. 472. Lieut. Hutton has described a sphex with

similar habits in India, in the "Journal of the Asiatic Society," vol.

i. p. 555.

[9] Don Felix Azara (vol. i. p. 175), mentioning a hymenopterous

insect, probably of the same genus, says he saw it dragging a dead

spider through tall grass, in a straight line to its nest, which was

one hundred and sixty-three paces distant. He adds that the wasp, in

order to find the road, every now and then made "demi-tours d'environ

trois palmes."

[10] Azara's Voyage, vol. i. p. 213

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