A holiday in Greenland--A lady blue with cold--The loves of
Greenlanders--Close shaving--Meet the whalers--Information of
whalers--Disco--Danish hospitality--Sail from Disco--Kindness of the
whalers--Danish establishments in Greenland.
{ANCHORED AT HOLSTEINBORG.}
_Wednesday night, April 28th._--Safely anchored at Holsteinborg, and
moored to the rocks; a charming change, after our position only a few
days back. We have been visited by the Danish residents--the chief
trader or governor, the priest, and two others: their latest European
intelligence is not more recent than our own, but the Danish ship is
hourly expected; she usually leaves Copenhagen about the middle of
March.
The winter here has been just the reverse of our own experience; it has
been severe in point of temperature, but with very little wind; the land
lies buried in snow, and as yet there is no thaw; it is too early for
the cod-fishery, and not a single reindeer has been killed throughout
the winter! Eider-ducks, looms, and dovekies are abundant, as well as
hares and ptarmigan.
_29th._--A bright and lovely day. Our poor, half-famished dogs have been
landed near the carcases of four whales, so they must be supremely
happy. I visited the Governor to-day, and found his little wooden house
as scrupulously clean and neat as the houses of the Danish residents in
Greenland invariably are. The only ornaments about the room were
portraits of his unfortunate wife and two children: they embarked at
Copenhagen last year to rejoin him, and the ill-fated vessel has never
since been heard of. Poor Governor Elberg is in ill health, and talks of
returning home--by _home_ he means Denmark, the land of his birth, and
where once he had a home.
{HOLIDAY IN GREENLAND.}
_30th._--This is a grand Danish holiday; the inhabitants are all dressed
in their Sunday clothes--at least, all who have got a change of
garments--and there is both morning and evening service in the small
wooden church. As the Governor could not be persuaded to unlock the door
of the dance-house, our men returned on board early; yesterday evening
they were all on shore, and, with the Esquimaux, were squeezed into this
one large room: to be squeezed in a crowd of human beings is positive
enjoyment after a winter's isolation such as ours has been. Old Harvey
constituted himself master of the ceremonies, and with his flute led the
orchestra; it consisted of one other flute and a fiddle; he managed to
perch himself above all the rest, at one end of the room, and played
with such vigor that our bluejackets and the Esquimaux ladies danced
away most furiously for hours. These ladies can dance in the least
possible space, their costume being particularly well adapted for the
purpose, partaking as it does much more of the "Bloomer" than the
"crinoline."
Christian looks immensely happy: his countrymen regard him as a man
whose fortune is made, and the women gaze with admiration upon his neat
sailor's dress, and his good-natured, full, round face, and huge, fat,
shining cheeks; Mr. Petersen is in great request to interpret between
the English, Danes, and Esquimaux.
{MAY, 1858.}
_7th May._--I intended sailing for Disco this morning, but wind and
weather were adverse. We have obtained but little here except water, a
tolerable supply of rock cod, some ptarmigan hares, wildfowl, and a few
items of stores. The Governor _now_ thinks the Danish ship must have
been directed to visit Godhaab before coming here. We have left letters
to go home in her, and they ought to be in England by the end of June.
{AN EARTHQUAKE.}
I visited to-day a small lake at the foot of Mount Cunningham; it is
said to occupy the centre of an extinct volcano: but I saw nothing to
bear out the assertion. This is the only part of Greenland where
earthquakes are felt. The Governor told me of an unusually severe shock
which occurred a winter or two ago. He was sitting in his room reading
at the time, when he heard a loud noise like the discharge of a cannon;
immediately afterwards a tremulous motion was felt, some glasses upon
the table began to dance about, and papers lying upon the window-sill
fell down: after a few seconds it ceased. He thinks the motion
originated at the lake, as it was not felt by some people living beyond
it, and that it passed from N.E. to S.W.
This mountain scenery is really charming; but a little more animal
life--reindeer, for instance--would make it far more pleasing in our
eyes. The last twelvemonth's produce of this district amounts only to
500 reindeer skins instead of 3000, as in ordinary years. The clergyman
of Holsteinborg was born in this colony, and has succeeded his father in
the priestly office; his wife is the only European female in the colony.
Being told that fuel was extremely scarce in the Danish houses, and that
"the priest's wife was blue with the cold," I sent on shore a present of
some coals.
On Sunday afternoon, hearing the church bell ringing I went on shore. It
proved to be only a christening. The little dusky infant received a long
string of European names. There was a small description of barrel-organ,
to the sound of which the congregation joined in, keeping up a loud
monotonous chant. Most of the young people had hymn-books in their
hands, printed in the Esquimaux language.
Ravens seem very abundant, also large grey falcons: perhaps the dead
whales may have attracted an unusual number.
{THE LOVES OF GREENLANDERS.}
Poor Christian has not only fallen desperately in love, but has engaged
himself to the object of his affections, a pretty Esquimaux girl. He
asked me to-day to give her a passage up to Godhavn, as he wished to
leave her in charge of his mother until his return there with us next
year, when his engagement for the voyage would be fulfilled. Having
heard a rumor of a young woman awaiting his return at Godhavn, I taxed
him with it, but he replied with great simplicity that "he had never
promised her, and would not marry her, as his friends objected to the
match!" What are the good Greenlanders coming to? I recommended that he
should have his betrothed in her own home, with her mother and family.
His asking a passage for her, in order to leave her with his mother, is
strong proof of the sincerity of his engagement, not only to his lady
love, but to the 'Fox' also.
I have written to the admiralty to account for my prolonged absence from
England; and to Dr. Rink to acquaint him with the cause of my second
visit to his inspectorate.
Governor Elberg has promised to get me some fossil fish, to be found
only in North Strom Fiord: they are interesting, as being of unknown
geological date.
_10th._--On the morning of the 8th we left Holsteinborg with a pleasant
land wind and bright weather. When 15 miles off shore we were stopped by
ice formed during the last two nights, the thermometer having fallen to
12°; out in the offing the weather was gloomy and cold, and strong
northerly winds were blowing. On closing the land again, we regained the
off-shore wind, and bright weather.
{STOPPED BY THE ICE.}
Keeping close alongshore, and threading our way through a vast deal of
"pack" and numerous icebergs, we gained sight of Disco about noon
to-day, and by the evening were within an hour's sail of Godhavn, when
we were again stopped by a broad belt of ice stretching along the coast;
this was a bitter disappointment, more particularly as a gale of wind
with heavy sea was fast rising, and snow beginning to fall thickly;
there was nothing for it, however, but to stand off under easy sail for
the night.
{WHALEFISH ISLANDS.}
_12th._--At anchor at the Whalefish Islands. On the evening of the 10th
we stood off from the inhospitable barrier of ice, prepared to meet the
storm; snow fell so thickly that we could hardly see the icebergs in
time to avoid them. We supposed ourselves to be well to leeward of the
Whalefish Islands, but were deceived by the tides; suddenly a small, low
islet was seen on the lee bow; not being able to pass to windward, we
were obliged to wear ship, and, in doing so, passed within the ship's
length of destruction--for we were certainly within that distance of
the rocks! The islet was covered with snow, and but for some very few
dark points showing through, it could not be distinguished from ice. On
the 11th the weather improved, and in the evening we came to our present
anchorage. From a hill we can watch an opportunity to enter Godhavn.
Notwithstanding the blowing weather, some natives came about five miles
off to us; the water washed over their little _kayaks_, and kept the
occupants' seal-skin dresses streaming with wet up to their shoulders;
this part of their dress seems rather part of the kayak, as it is
attached to it round the hole in which the _kayaker_ sits, so that no
water can enter. It is wonderful to see how closely a man can assimilate
his habits to those of a fish.
The Danish cooper in charge of this out-station tells us there are
thirteen English whalers already out, and some of them have been up to
the north end of Disco; two vessels are in sight. The world, it appears,
is at peace. Petersen was at one time in charge of this station; he is
now seeking out his old acquaintances.
_14th._--Summer has suddenly burst upon us--thermometer up to 40°;
moreover, we are enjoying English newspapers, and have dined off roast
beef and vegetables!
{MEET THE WHALERS.}
Two days ago I sent a note off to a whaler by a kayak, requesting her
captain to lend me some newspapers; the note reached Captain J. Walker,
of the 'Jane,' and yesterday his ship, accompanied by the 'Heroine,'
Captain J. Simpson, approached us, and they both came in to call upon
me, each of them bringing the very acceptable present of some
newspapers, besides a quarter of beef, with vegetables. Nothing could
exceed their sincere good feeling and kindness; they offered to supply
me with anything their ships could afford. The account they give of last
season is as follows: the whalers reached Devil's Point, near Melville
Bay, as early as the 21st of May; southerly winds then set in, and blew
incessantly for six weeks, during all which time they were closely
beset, and the ships 'Gipsy' and 'Undaunted' were crushed. When able to
move, the fleet returned southward along the "pack-edge," which was
everywhere found to be impenetrable; they sailed southward of Disco, and
about the middle of July the earliest ships rounded the southern
extremity of middle ice in lat. 68-1/2°, and found no difficulty in
their further passage to Pond's Bay. Captain Walker says ships could not
have reached Lancaster Sound, as there was much ice north of Pond's Bay
which he thought extended quite across to Melville Bay.
{UNUSUAL POSITION OF ICE.}
The position of the ice last season was considered to be most unusual;
the long prevalence of southerly winds appeared to have separated the
tail of the pack from the main body, the former lying against the west
land about Cape Searle, whilst the latter was forced northward and
pressed closely into Melville Bay; the ships sailed freely between these
two great divisions, and found the west water unusually extensive.
Had I been able to collect a sufficient number of sledge-dogs at Godhavn
last year, it was my intention to have sailed across to the west side if
possible, instead of pursuing the usual route through Melville Bay; but
the opinions of the captains of the lost whalers were in favor of a
"Melville Bay" passage, and the necessity for obtaining dogs left me no
choice as to whether I should proceed west, or north to Proven and
Upernivik; I have already recorded what were my opinions _at the time_,
so need only observe _now_, that, although I failed, I believe my
decision was justified by all former experience, even independently of
the circumstances which obliged me to adopt it. Nevertheless it is
mortifying to find that ships had reached as far as Pond's Bay, and with
but little difficulty. Sir Edward Parry, upon his third voyage, did not
reach the west water until very late in the season, although some of the
whalers met with better success by following up another route.
{UNCERTAINTY OF ICE-NAVIGATION.}
There is nothing more uncertain than ice-navigation, dependent as it is
upon winds, temperatures, and currents: one can only calculate upon "the
chances," and how nearly we succeeded we have already seen. In the
preceding year (1856) some of the whalers got through Melville Bay as
early as the 15th June, only a few days after the commencement of the
summer's thaw. Captain Walker tells me there are many years in which the
whalers can pass up the western shore late in the season, but not always
so far as Pond's Bay; of Melville Bay after the 10th or 15th July they
know nothing, but the voyages of discovery afford us ample details;
whilst of the southern route almost nothing has been made publicly
known.
There are many intelligent whaling captains who possess much valuable
knowledge of these lands and seas, and even in the terra incognita of
Frobisher's Straits, whalers have wintered, whilst our charts scarcely
afford even a vague idea of the configuration of these extensive
islands. The so-called "Home Bay" has been penetrated for fifty miles,
and is supposed to be a strait leading to Fox's Furthest. Scott's Inlet
is also said to be a strait leading into a western arm of the same sea.
A surveying vessel would be usefully employed for a couple of summers in
tracing the general outline of these possessions of Her Majesty, more
particularly as they are rather thickly inhabited by Esquimaux most
eager to barter their produce for rifles, saws, files, knives, needles,
and such like articles. Good coal has been found upon Durbin Island
(near Cape Searle), in a convenient little cove upon its southern side;
and as the old sailing whalers are fast being replaced by steamers, this
place may become of great importance to them.
We are refitting, shooting, and devouring quantities of excellent
mussels; eider ducks are very abundant, but extremely shy. Poor puss has
been killed; tempted on deck by the unusually warm weather, she was
pounced upon by the dogs.
{DANISH HOSPITALITY.}
_17th._--Yesterday our attempt to enter the port of Godhavn failed, it
is still filled with ice. This evening Young and I examined a narrow
rocky cove--Upernivik Bay of the natives; finding it suitable for our
purpose, the ship was brought in and moored to the rocks. We were
received with much kindness by our friends, Mr. and Mrs. Olrik, and were
presented with a file of late English papers. A considerable supply of
beer was ordered to be brewed for us.
I found Mrs. Olrik without a fire in her sitting room; it was
unnecessary; the windows looked to the south, and the sun shone brightly
in upon a profusion of geraniums and European flowers, at once reminding
one of home, and refreshing the senses by their perfume and beauty; the
merry voices of the children were also a most pleasing novelty. Mr.
Olrik says the past winter has not been in any way remarkable, except
for the prevalence of strong winds; April and the early part of May have
been unusually cold.
{INTERCHANGE OF PRESENTS.}
_24th._--We did honor to Her Majesty's birthday by dressing the 'Fox' in
all her flags, and regaling her crew with plum-pudding and grog. The ice
having moved off, we have come into the harbor of Godhavn, as being more
convenient and safe. The day has been a busy one: we have completed our
small purchases and closed our letters; I have added another Esquimaux
lad to our crew, taking with him his rifle, kayak, and sledge. This
evening there has been a brisk interchange of presents between us and
our Danish friends. I have been given an eider-down coverlet by the
Governor, Mr. Andersen; and, by Mrs. Olrik, some delicious preserve of
Greenland cranberries, a tin of preserved ptarmigan, and a jar of
pickled whale-skin; my table is decked with European flowers, including
roses, mignonette, and violets.
With good reason shall we remember Godhavn; we have certainly been
treated as especial favorites.
{COALING.}
_26th._--Left Godhavn early yesterday morning, and anchored this
afternoon in our old position off the Coal Cliffs in the Waigat; a party
of seal-hunters from Atanekerdluk came off to us, and their hunting
having terminated successfully, they will assist us in coaling. From
these men I obtained much information about this part of the coast;
within a range of 20 miles upon the Disco shore there are four distinct
coaling places; but at this early season two of them are deeply covered
with snow. There is also very good coal at the S.E. end of Hare Island,
where it can be easily obtained. The ice in this strait broke up as long
ago as the 3rd April; it has all drifted out to the northward, only a
few icebergs now remain.
_28th._--Again hastening northward; the business of coaling was very
speedily and satisfactorily completed, but the quality of the coals is
very inferior. Upon the green slopes our sportsmen found nothing but a
few ptarmigan and a hare.
Shortly after running close past the deserted settlement of Noursoak, we
arrived off a small bay, and were startled by finding the water had
suddenly changed from transparent blue to a thick muddy color, but there
was no change in its depth; we were crossing the stream of "Makkaks
Elvin," or Clay River, which empties itself into the bay after running
through a broad and extensive valley, said to abound with reindeer; this
river has its origin in lakes and glaciers in the interior, and the
discoloration of the water is probably the chief cause of success in
white-whale fishing, which is carried on here in the autumn, as those
timid animals will not permit boats to approach them in clear water.
This evening we are crossing Omenak's Fiord, and the land-wind, which
here and all along the coast northwards blows from the N.E., has come
off to us.
{PROXIMITY OF THE WHALERS.}
_31st._--Lying fast to an iceberg off Upernivik.
The whalers are all within a dozen miles of us, unable to penetrate
further north. The season appears forward, and the ice much decayed; but
southerly winds prevail, retarding its disruption and removal. Captain
Parker, of the 'Emma,' tells me he does not expect to make a north
passage this year, and as his experience extends over a period of at
least thirty years, I give his reason; it is simply this,--that as
during the months of February, March, and April northerly winds
prevailed to an unusual degree, therefore southerly winds may now be
expected to continue; if he prove a prophet, it will be to our serious
hinderance at this critical season. Governor Fliescher says the winter
has been mild; there has been but little wind, and that chiefly from the
southward.
{JUNE, 1858.}
{KINDNESS OF THE WHALERS.}
_4th June._--We have received much kindness from our friends Captains
Parker and J. Simpson, as well as from others of the whaling fleet; the
former has generously supplied us with many things we were rather short
of, not only in ship's stores, but provisions and coals, and in return
I have of course furnished him with a receipt for his owners. Captain
Simpson has most handsomely presented the 'Fox' with a sail and yards,
which, after some slight alterations, will enable us to add a main
topsail to our spread of canvas. For the two days we lay at the iceberg,
alongside of the 'Emma,' I made furious attacks upon Captain Parker's
beefsteaks and porter; we amply availed ourselves of his hearty welcome.
By the arrival of the fine steam whaler 'Tay,' from Scotland, we have
received papers up to 17th April.
This morning we slowly steamed away from Upernivik, threading our way
betwixt islands, and ice, for about 30 miles, and now await further ice
movement before it will be possible to proceed.
These are called the Woman Islands, so named by the celebrated Arctic
explorer John Davis, who visited them in Queen Elizabeth's reign; he
found here only a few old women, their frightened lords and more active
juniors having effected their escape.
Upon one of these islands a stone was picked up some 30 years ago,
bearing a Runic inscription; it was sent home to Copenhagen as a most
interesting relic of the early Scandinavian voyagers; but nothing was on
it except the names of those men "who cleared this place" (or formed a
settlement), and the date, 1135. In all probability their sojourn was
extremely short, perhaps only for a single summer. The Esquimaux did
not make their appearance for nearly two centuries later.
{DANISH ESTABLISHMENTS.}
After Egede's settlement at Godhaab in 1721, the Danish trading
establishments gradually extended along the coast, and Upernivik was one
of them; but it appears to have been soon abandoned. During Napoleon's
wars all the Danish posts were withdrawn, as the British fleet
effectually cut off communication with Europe; but after peace was
restored in 1815, the trading posts were again resorted to, and a new
settlement formed near the ruins of the old one at Upernivik; it enjoys
pre-eminence as the most northern abode of civilized man.