The command of the expedition was entrusted to Vice-admiral Bruny

d'Entrecasteaux, who had attracted the attention of government by his

conduct in India. Two vessels, the _Recherche_, and the _Esperance_,

the latter under the orders of M. Huon de Kermadec, ship's captain,

were placed at his command. The staff of these vessels comprised many

officers who later attained to high military positions. Amongst them

were, Rossei, Willaumez, Trobriand, La Grandiere, Laignel, and Jurien.

Amongst the men of science on board were, La Billardiere, naturalist,

Bertrand and Pierson, astronomers, Ventenat and Riche, naturalists,

Beautemps-Beaupre, hydrographer, and Jouveney, engineer.

The vessels were stocked with provisions for eighteen months, and a

quantity of merchandise, for trading purposes. Leaving Brest upon the

28th of September, they reached Teneriffe upon the 13th of October. An

ascent of the famous Peak followed as a matter of course. La

Billardiere noticed a phenomenon which had already been observed by

him in Asia Minor: his figure was reflected upon the clouds below him,

opposite to the sun, in every colour of the rainbow.

Upon the 23rd of October, the necessary provisions having been shipped,

anchor was weighed, and the start made for the Cape. During the cruise,

La Billardiere discovered that the phosphorescent appearance of the

sea is caused by minute globular animalculi, floating in the waves.

The voyage to the Cape, where the vessels arrived upon the 18th of

January, 1792, was barren of incident, if we except the unusual

quantity of bonitos, or tunny, and other fish that were met with, and

a small leakage which occurred, but was quickly remedied.

At the Cape, D'Entrecasteaux found a letter from M. de Saint Felix,

commanding the French forces in India, which seemed likely to upset

all his plans, and exercise an unfavourable influence upon the

expedition. From this communication it appeared that two French

captains, from Batavia, had stated that Commodore Hunter, in command

of the English frigate _Syrius_, had seen, "near the Admiralty Islands,

in the Pacific Ocean, men dressed in the European style, and in what

he took to be French uniforms." "It is clear," wrote M. de Saint Felix,

"that the commodore was convinced they were the remnants of La

Perouse's company."

When D'Entrecasteaux arrived at the Cape, Hunter was still in the

roadstead; but within two hours of the arrival of the French vessels

he weighed anchor. This conduct, appeared very strange. The commodore

had had time to hear that the vessels just arrived were those sent in

search of La Perouse, and yet he had made no communication to the

commander upon the subject. But it was soon ascertained that Hunter

had declared himself quite ignorant of the facts stated by M. de Saint

Felix. Were they then to be regarded as unfounded? Incredible as M. de

Saint Felix's communication appeared, D'Entrecasteaux could not

suppose so.

[Illustration: Portrait of D'Entrecasteaux. (Fac-simile of early

engraving.)]

The naturalists had availed themselves of their stay at the Cape to

make many excursions in the neighbourhood: La Billardiere had

penetrated as far into the interior as the short stay of the frigates

in the roadstead permitted.

Anchor was weighed upon the 16th of February, and D'Entrecasteaux

decided upon reaching the southern seas by doubling Cape Horn, and

steered for the passage between St. Paul and Amsterdam Islands.

Captain Valming had discovered these islands in 1696, and they had

been recognized by Cook in his last voyage. When the _Recherche_ and

the _Esperance_ passed St. Paul Island it was enveloped in a thick

smoke, through which the summits of the mountains were visible. The

forests were on fire.

Upon the 21st of April the two vessels entered a bay upon the coast of

Van Diemen's Land, which was supposed to be Adventure Bay, but which

in reality was Storm Bay. The extreme point of this bay was named

after D'Entrecasteaux. Wood was easily obtained there, and fish was

very abundant. Amongst the magnificent trees of the country, La

Billardiere mentions various species of the eucalyptus, the many uses

of which were then unknown. The hunting-parties caught black swans and

kangaroos, creatures also but little known.

Upon the 16th of May the vessels left the port, and made for a strait,

afterwards named after D'Entrecasteaux.

"M. Creton and M. Auribeau," says the narrative, "were encouraged to

land by the sight of fires close to the shore. They had gone but a

short distance when they came upon four natives, attending to three

small fires, by which they were seated. They took to flight on seeing

the strangers, in spite of every friendly demonstration, leaving the

lobsters and shell-fish which they had been broiling. As many huts as

there were fires were close by.

"One of the natives, in his hurry, left a small basket, full of pieces

of silica, behind him. He was not afraid to return in search of it,

but approached Creton with a bold air, possibly owing to his

confidence in his own strength. Some of these savages were naked, and

others wore only a kangaroo skin upon the shoulders. In colour they

were nearly black; they had woolly hair, and allowed the beard to

grow."

[Illustration: "They came upon four natives."]

Upon leaving D'Entrecasteaux Strait, the vessels proceeded to survey

the south-western coast of New Caledonia, which La Perouse should have

visited. A portion of Pine Island, which stretches to the north of

that country, was the first to be recognized.

The _Recherche_ narrowly escaped destruction upon the coral reefs

which surround the coast, leaving only a narrow passage between them

and the main land. At the northern extremity several mountainous

islands and detached rocks were perceived, which rendered the

navigation extremely dangerous. The navigators, grateful for their

escape, named them the Entrecasteaux Reefs and Huon Islands.

The survey of this perilous coast lasted from the 16th of June to the

3rd of July. A true service was thus rendered to geographers and

navigators, though it was, perhaps, the least profitable part of the

voyage of discovery.

As the favourable season was now approaching, D'Entrecasteaux

determined to avail himself of it to reach the land of the Arsacides,

which had been seen by Surville, and visited some years later by

Shortland, who, imagining he was making a new discovery, named it New

Georgia.

"Upon the 9th of July," says La Billardiere, "towards half-past four

o'clock, we perceived, about ten miles to the N.W., a rock called

Eddystone. We took it at first, as Shortland had done, for a sailing

vessel. The illusion was the greater, as in colour it much resembles

the sails of a ship; a few shrubs crowned the summit. The land of the

Arsacides, opposite this rock, is steep, and covered with large

trees."

After rectifying the position of Eddystone rocks, and that of the

Treasury Islands--which are five in number, though so close together

that Bougainville took them for one island--D'Entrecasteaux coasted

Bougainville Island. It is separated from Bouka Island by a narrow

strait, and is covered with plantations. It appeared to be well

populated. Some trade was done with the natives, but nothing would

induce them to venture on board the vessels.

"The colour of their skins," says La Billardiere, "is nearly black.

They are of medium height, and wear no clothes. They are muscular and

strong. Although their features are not pleasant, they are very

expressive. They have large heads, and broad foreheads. Their faces,

especially in the lower part, are flat; they have thick chins, rather

prominent cheek bones, flat noses, large mouths, and thin lips.

"Their ugliness is increased by the colour with which the betel-nut

stains their mouths. They appear very skilful in the use of bows and

arrows. One of them brought a gannet which he had just killed, on

board, and the hole made by the arrow could easily be seen.

"These natives have bestowed particular attention upon their weapons,

which are very well finished. We could not but admire the skill with

which they coated the strings of their bows with resin, in such a way

that at first sight they looked like catgut. The centre was protected

with a piece of bark, to lessen the wear in projecting the arrows."

The survey of the western coast of these two islands was completed

upon the 15th of July. Bougainville had already surveyed the eastern

shore.

Next day the French navigators sighted first the island to which

Carteret had given the name of Sir Charles Hardy, and then the south

eastern extremity of New Ireland.

The two vessels cast anchor in Carteret Bay, and the crews were

established upon Cocoa Island. This island is covered with evergreen

trees, which, in spite of the volcanic nature of the soil, grow

vigorously.

The cocoa-nuts from which it received its name were procured with

difficulty. On the other hand, it afforded the naturalists so many

varieties of plants and insects as to charm Billardiere.

Rain fell abundantly during the stay; it was like a ceaseless torrent

of tepid water.

After obtaining the necessary wood and water, the _Recherche_ and

_Esperance_ set sail from Port Carteret upon the 24th of July, 1792.

In so doing the Esperance unfortunately lost an anchor, the cable

having been cut by the coral reefs. The two vessels then entered St.

George's Strait, which at the southern extremity is only about

forty-two miles in width, about half the extent assigned to it by

Carteret. The currents were so rapid that the ships were carried past

Man and Sandwich Islands, without being able to stop.

After sighting Portland Islands, low lands, seven in number, which

stretch from 2 degrees 39 minutes 44 seconds S. lat. to 147 degrees 15

minutes E. long., D'Entrecasteaux continued his route towards the

Admiralty Islands, which he intended to visit. It was upon the most

easterly of these islands that, according to the report received by

Commodore Hunter, the natives wearing French naval uniforms had been

seen.

"The natives appeared in crowds," says the narrative. "Some ran along

the shore, others, fixing their eyes upon our vessels, invited us by

signs to land. The cries they uttered were intended to express their

joy. At half-past one the vessels anchored, and a boat was despatched

from each, containing articles for distribution among the natives of

this small island. The frigates were so placed as to protect the boats

as they neared the land, in the event of any attack by the savages,

for our recollection of the treachery of the natives of the islands

south of the Admiralty made us distrustful."

The coast abounded in reefs; the boats could only approach within a

hundred yards of the shore. Numbers of the natives crowded to the

beach, and invited the French by signs to land.

"One of the savages, distinguished by a double row of small shells

upon his forehead, appeared to exercise a good deal of authority. He

ordered one of the natives to jump into the water, and bring us some

cocoa-nuts. Fearing to approach strangers swimming and defenceless, he

hesitated for a moment. The chief, evidently quite unaccustomed to

resistance to his wishes, followed up his command by blows from his

club, and compelled obedience.

"As soon as the islander returned to land, curiosity brought the

natives around him in crowds. Each wished to participate in our

presents. Pirogues were immediately launched, and many natives swam to

the boats, which were shortly surrounded by quite a crowd. We were

surprised that the violence of the surf upon the breakers did not

intimidate them."

Perhaps the French may have attempted that which the Indians

accomplished. It seems probable that they would never have observed

these people if the vessels, or at least a small boat, had not been

wrecked in the archipelago.

The only remark made by them is to the effect that the natives

understood and appreciated the use of iron.

D'Entrecasteaux then proceeded to reconnoitre the northern portion of

the archipelago, and to trade with the natives. He did not land

anywhere, and does not appear to have executed this part of his task

with the minute care and attention which might have been expected of

him.

The _Recherche_ and the _Esperance_ afterwards visited the Hermit

Islands, discovered in 1781 by a Spanish frigate, _La Princesa_. The

natives, like all those they had encountered, showed a great desire to

induce the strangers to land, but did not succeed in persuading them

to do so.

The Exchequer Islands, discovered by Bougainville, several unknown low

islands, covered with luxuriant vegetation, Schouten Island, and the

coast of New Guinea, were successively sighted. In the interior of the

last-named a large chain of mountains was distinguished, the loftiest

of which appeared at least three thousand five hundred feet high.

After coasting this large island, the _Recherche_ and the _Esperance_

entered Pitt Strait to reach the Moluccas.

Upon the 5th of September, 1792, the French joyfully anchored in the

roadstead of Amboyna. There were many sufferers from scurvy on board,

and officers and crew alike needed a lengthened rest. The naturalists,

astronomers, and other scientific men immediately landed, and took the

necessary steps for the prosecution of their various observations. The

naturalists were particularly successful in acquiring new facts. La

Billardiere congratulates himself upon the multiplicity of new plants

and animals that he was able to obtain.

"Once when upon the shore," he says, "I heard what appeared to be wind

instruments, the tones now harmonious, now discordant, yet never

unpleasing. These harmonious and distinct sounds appeared to come from

a distance, and I imagined the natives were making music some six or

seven miles beyond the roadstead. But my ear deceived me, for I found

that I was not a hundred yards from the instrument. A bamboo cane, at

least sixty feet high, was fixed vertically upon the shore. At each

notch a slit had been made, about two and a half inches long and one

and a quarter broad. These slits made so many openings for the wind,

which, passing through them, produced varied and pleasant sounds. As

the notches in this cane were very numerous, the slits had been made

all round, so that whichever way the wind blew it went through some of

them. I can only compare the sound of this instrument to that of an

harmonium."

During this long stay of a month in one place the vessels were well

caulked, the sails and rigging attended to, and every precaution taken

for a voyage in tropical and damp climates.

A few details on the roadstead of Amboyna, and the manners and customs

of the native population, will not be out of place.

"Amboyna roadstead," says La Billardiere, "forms a channel some

thirteen or fourteen miles in length, and about two and a half miles

in breadth. It affords good anchorage, although the bottom is partly

of coral.

"The fort, called Victory Fort, is built of bricks; the governor and

some of the members of government reside there. It was at this time

falling into ruins, and every discharge of cannon did evident damage.

"The garrison consisted of about two hundred men, of which the natives

of the island composed a considerable part; the remainder consisted of

a few retired European soldiers and a small detachment of a Wurtemberg

regiment.

"The mortality amongst officers living in the Indies makes the lives

of those who have been some time in the climate precious; the Dutch

Company is therefore seldom true to its promise to allow them to

return to Europe at the expiration of their time of service. I met

with several of these unfortunate men who had been detained for more

than twenty years, when, according to agreement, they ought to have

been freed long before.

"The language of the natives of Amboyna is Malay. It is very soft and

musical. The country produces spices, coffee, which is inferior to

that of Reunion Island, and sago; the latter is largely cultivated in

the marshy districts.

"The rice consumed at Amboyna is not indigenous to the soil, but still

it might be successfully cultivated in the low lands. The Dutch

Company, however, prohibit the growth of this article of commerce,

because its sale enables them to keep back a part of the sum which

they are obliged to pay for cloves furnished by the blacks. They thus

prevent the increase of pay, and obtain the fruits of native labour at

a moderate price.

"Thus the company, consulting their own interest only, discourage all

industry in the population, by forcing them, as it were, to relinquish

everything but the cultivation of spices.

"The Dutch are careful to limit the cultivation of spices within the

compass of ordinary consumption. Their efforts, which are destructive

of all enterprise, chime in with the _nonchalant_ character of the

natives."

On the 23rd of "Vendemiaire"[1] of the year 1, if we conform to the

new style, as Bougainville does, the two vessels left Amboyna, amply

provisioned with fowls, ducks, geese, pigs, goats, potatoes, yams,

bananas, and pumpkins. Meat, however, they obtained in but small

quantities, the flour was of a bad quality, and the sailors could

never accustom themselves to the sago which was shipped in its stead;

bamboos, cloves, and arrack may be added to the list of shipments.

[Footnote 1: First month of the Republican calendar.]

"Young bamboo shoots, cut in slices, and preserved in vinegar," says

La Billardiere, "made an excellent store for a long voyage. These

young shoots are generally very tender. They are gathered early, and

sold in the market as vegetables, for which they are a good substitute.

They are often a yard long, and half an inch thick.

"These young bamboo shoots are much appreciated by the Chinese, who

think them similar to asparagus in flavour.

"We were also provided with cloves and nutmegs preserved in sugar. The

shell of the nutmeg is the only edible portion; unfortunately,

ignorant preservers had chosen full-grown nutmegs. Cloves, when once

as large as ordinary olives, retain too much flavour to be a pleasant

sweetmeat. One must be endowed with an Indian palate to enjoy them. I

might say the same of our ginger preserves.

"The only spirituous liquor obtainable was arrack, several casks of

which were bought. Many travellers have spoken in praise of this

liquor, which is, in reality, not equal to the poorest brandy."

Upon leaving Amboyna, the expedition sailed for the south-west coast

of Australia. Shortly afterwards, Kisser Island, the north shore of

Timor, Baton Island, and the delightful Sauva Island, were

successively passed; and finally, upon the 16th "Frimaire," the

western extremity of the south-western coast of New Holland, which was

discovered by Leuwin in 1622, was sighted.

The coast presented a succession of sandy dunes, in the midst of which

arose pointed rocks, apparently utterly sterile. Navigation upon this

unsheltered coast was extremely dangerous. The sea ran high, the wind

was boisterous, and it was necessary to steer amongst the breakers.

During a strong gale the _Esperance_ was nearly driven upon the coast,

when one of the officers fortunately distinguished from the main-mast

an anchorage, where, he declared, the ships would be in safety.

"The safety of the two ships," says the narrative, "was due to this

discovery, for the _Recherche_, after battling as long as she could

against the storm, had been forced to tack about all night amidst

these perilous breakers, hoping for a change of wind which would make

it possible for her to reach the open sea, and must infallibly have

perished. This bay, named Legrand, after the able seaman who first

discovered it, will always recall his invaluable service to the

expedition."

The islets surrounding this coast were reconnoitred by the navigators.

A geographical engineer, named Riche, belonging to the _Recherche_,

landing upon the mainland to make observations, lost his way, and only

reached the vessels after two days' absence, nearly dead of fatigue

and hunger.

This small archipelago concluded the discoveries of Nuyts.

"We were surprised," says La Billardiere, "at the exactitude with

which the latitude had been determined by this navigator, at a time

when instruments were very imperfect. The same remark applies to

nearly all Leuwin's discoveries in this region."

Upon the 15th Nivose[2] 31 degrees 52 minutes lat. and 129 degrees 16

minutes E. long., Captain Huon de Kermadec informed D'Entrecasteaux

that his rudder was injured, that he was obliged to limit his crew to

three quarters of a bottle of water per day, that he had been forced

to discontinue the distribution of anti-scorbutic drinks, and that he

had only thirty casks of water remaining. The _Recherche_ was hardly

in better case. D'Entrecasteaux accordingly made for Cape Dieman,

after navigating for about six hundred and seventy miles along a

barren coast, which offered no object of interest or value.

[Footnote 2: Fourth month of the Republican calendar, from 21st

December to 21st January.]

Upon the 3rd Pluviose,[3] the vessels anchored in the Bay of Rocks, in

Tempest Bay, which they had visited the preceding year. This spot was

very rich in points of interest. La Billardiere was amazed at the

varied products of this portion of Van Diemen's Land, and was never

tired of admiring the vast forests of gigantic trees, and the many

unknown shrubs and plants, through which he had to force his way.

During one of his numerous excursions he picked up some fine pieces of

beautiful bronze red haematite, and further on some earth containing

ochre, of so bright a red as to denote the presence of iron. He soon

encountered some natives, and his remarks upon this race, which is now

quite extinct, are interesting enough for repetition; moreover, they

complete the particulars already given by Captain Cook.

[Footnote 3: Fifth month of the Republican calendar, from 20th January

to 20th February.]

He says, "There were about forty-two natives; seven grown men, and

eight women, the others appeared to be their children; many of them

were girls already arrived at maturity, who were even more lightly

clad than their mothers. They have woolly hair, and the men let their

beards grow long. In the children the upper jaw projects, but in

adults it is about even with the lower. No doubt these people consider

it a beauty to be black; for, not being very dark to begin with, they

powder the upper part of the body with coal dust.

"We noticed rows of spots on the skin, especially of the shoulders and

breast, now in lines above three inches long, now in equidistant dots.

These people do not appear to observe the custom which many travellers

have thought to be universal amongst their tribes, of extracting the

incisor teeth, for we saw no native with any missing from the upper

jaw, and they all had very fine, strong teeth. These people swarm with

vermin. We could not but admire the patience of a woman, whom we

watched freeing her child of them; nor could we avoid feeling shocked

when she crushed the disgusting insects with her teeth, and then

swallowed them. Monkeys have the same habit!

"The young children greatly admired everything shining, and they did

not hesitate to take the metal buttons off our coats. I must not omit

to mention a trick played upon a sailor by a young savage. The man had

collected a number of shells, and left them in a bag at the foot of a

rock. The native furtively removed them, and allowed the sailor to

search for them vainly for some time; then quietly replacing them, he

seemed much amused at the trick he had played."

Early in the morning of the 26th Pluviose the two vessels weighed

anchor, entered D'Entrecasteaux Strait, and, on the 5th of Ventose,[4]

anchored in Adventure Bay. After a stay of five days, spent in taking

observations, D'Entrecasteaux set sail for New Zealand, and reached

its southern extremity. After an interview with the natives, too short

to admit of additions being made to the many and precise observations

of Captain Cook, D'Entrecasteaux started for the Friendly Islands,

which La Perouse had intended visiting. He anchored in Tonga Tabou Bay.

The vessels were at once surrounded by a crowd of pirogues, and

literally boarded by the natives, who came to sell pigs and every

variety of fruit.

[Footnote 4: Fifth month of French Republican calendar.]

One of the sons of Poulao, the king Cook had known, received the

navigators cordially, and scrupulously superintended the trade with

the islanders. This was no easy task, for they developed surprising

talents for stealing everything which came in their way.

La Billardiere describes rather a good joke of which he was the victim.

He was followed to the provision tent by two natives, whom he took to

be chiefs.

"One of them," he says, "was very anxious to choose the best fruits

for me. I had placed my hat on the ground, thinking it safe there; but

these two rogues understood their business. The one behind me was

clever enough to hide my hat under his clothes, and was off before I

perceived the theft; the other speedily followed. I was the more

surprised at this attempt, because I should have supposed they would

not have had the courage to steal so large an object, running the risk

of being caught, in the enclosure to which we had admitted them.

Moreover, a hat could not be a very useful article to these people,

who generally go bare-headed. Their dexterity in robbing me, convinced

me that it was by no means their first attempt."

The French entered into relations with a chief named Finau, probably

the same who is mentioned as Finauo in Captain Cook's voyage, and who

called him Toute. But he was only a secondary chief. The real king,

supreme chief of Tonga Tabou, Vavao, and of Annamooka, was named

Toubau. He visited the ships, and brought back a gun which had been

stolen a day or two previously from a sentinel. He presented

D'Entrecasteaux with two pieces of stuff made from the bark of the

mulberry-tree, so large that if opened out either would have covered

the vessel. In exchange for mats and pigs he received a fine hatchet

and a general's red coat, which he immediately put on.

Two days later, an extraordinarily stout female, at least fifty years

of age, and to whom the natives paid great respect, came on board.

This was Queen Tina. She tasted everything that was offered to her,

but preferred preserved bananas. The steward stood behind her chair,

and waited to clear away, but she saved him the trouble by

appropriating the plate and napkin.

King Toubau was anxious to give an entertainment to D'Entrecasteaux.

The admiral was received upon landing by two chiefs, Finau and Omalai,

and conducted by them to an extensive esplanade. Toubau arrived with

his two daughters. They had sprinkled a quantity of cocoa-nut oil upon

their heads, and each wore a necklace made of the pretty seeds of the

_arbus peccatorius_.

"The natives," says the narrative, "arrived from all parts in great

crowds; we estimated that the number amounted to at least four

thousand.

"The seat of honour was evidently to the left of the king, for he

invited D'Entrecasteaux to take his place there. The captain then

offered the presents he had brought for the king which were gratefully

accepted. A piece of crimson damask excited the most vivid admiration

from all the assembled natives. 'Eho! Eho!' they exclaimed repeatedly,

in accents of the greatest surprise. They uttered the same admiring

cry when we unfolded some pieces of coloured ribbon, in which red

predominated. The captain then presented a couple of goats, and a pair

of rabbits, of which the king promised to take every care.

D'Entrecasteaux also bestowed various presents upon Toubau's son

Omalai, and several other chiefs.

"To our right, on the north-east, under a shady bread-fruit tree laden

with fruit, thirteen musicians were seated, who sang together in

different parts. Four of the musicians played the accompaniment by

striking bamboo canes, yard and a yard and a half long, upon the

ground, the holder of the longest bamboo occasionally acting as

conductor. These bamboo canes emitted a sound not unlike that of a

tambourine, and they were arranged in the following order. The two

medium-sized canes were in unison, the longest a tone and a half lower,

and the shortest two tones and a half higher. The voice of the alto

was heard far above all the others, although he was a little hoarse;

he accompanied himself by striking with two little sticks upon a

bamboo cane, some six yards long, and split throughout its entire

length. Three musicians stationed in front of the others appeared to

explain the song by gestures, which had apparently been well studied,

as they all acted in unison. Occasionally gracefully moving their arms,

they turned towards the king; whilst sometimes they suddenly sunk

their heads upon their breasts, and as suddenly tossed them back.

"After these entertainments Toubau offered the captain several pieces

of stuff made from the bark of the mulberry-tree. He had them unrolled

with great ostentation, that we might fully appreciate the value of

his gift. The minister seated upon his left ordered the preparation of

'kava,' which was soon brought in an oval-shaped wooden vase, about

three feet long.

"The musicians had reserved their best pieces for this moment, for at

each succeeding effort we heard applauding cries of 'Mali, Mali;' and

it was evident that the music had an agreeable and inspiriting effect

upon the natives. The 'kava' was then offered to the various chiefs by

those who had prepared it."

This concert, it will be seen, was by no means equal to the splendid

entertainment which had been given to Captain Cook.

[Illustration: Fete in honour of D'Entrecasteaux at the Friendly

Islands. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]

Queen Tina followed it up by giving a grand ball, which was preceded

by a concert, fully attended by the natives, amongst whom, we may

incidentally mention, were numbers of thieves, who became so bold that

they ended by forcibly taking possession of a cutlas. As the

blacksmith of the _Recherche_ pursued the thieves, they turned, and

seeing him alone, struck him on the head with a club. Fortunately his

danger was perceived by those on board the _Esperance_, and a

well-directed shot dispersed his assaillants. Several natives were

killed upon this occasion by the officers and sailors, who, not seeing

exactly what had happened, treated all the islanders they met as

dangerous. Fortunately, concord was soon restored; and the relations

were so friendly when the time came for the French to leave, that many

of the natives begged to accompany them to France.

"The intelligent account which these islanders gave of the vessels

which had anchored in this archipelago," says the narrative,

"convinced us that La Perouse had not visited any of these islands.

They remembered perfectly every occasion upon which they had seen

Captain Cook, and they indicated the intervals between his visits by

the crops of yams, reckoning two in each year."

It is true that their information, as far as it related to La Perouse,

was in direct contradiction to the facts which Dumont-Durville

collected thirty-six years later, when Tamaha was queen.

"I was anxious to know," he says, "if any Europeans had visited Tonga

between Cook and D'Entrecasteaux. After a few moments' reflection, she

explained to me very clearly that a few years before D'Entrecasteaux's

visit, two large vessels, like his in every respect, carrying guns and

many Europeans, had anchored off Annamooka, and remained there six

days. They showed a white flag, quite unlike the English one. The

strangers had been very friendly with the natives, and had had a house

on the island and entered into trade. She related that a native who

had agreed to exchange a wooden bolster for a knife, was shot by an

officer because he wanted to take back his merchandise when he had

been paid for it. However, the incident had not broken the peace,

because in that instance the native was in the wrong."

Although it is impossible to suspect Dumont-Durville of any attempt at

imposition, many portions of this circumstantial account bear the

impress of truth, more especially that relating to the flag, as being

different to that of the English. Must we then charge D'Entrecasteaux

with want of thoroughness in his work? This would be a very serious

charge. Yet two circumstances, which we shall presently relate, appear

to point to that conclusion.

The natives witnessed the departure of the French with keen regret.

The expedition left upon the 21st Germinal,[5] and six days later the

_Esperance_ signalled Erronan, the most easterly of the islands of

Santo Espiritu, discovered by Quiros in 1660. Beyond this Annatom,

Tanna, with its volcano in constant eruption, and the

Beautemps-Beaupre Islands were passed. Carried onwards by the currents,

the vessels were soon in sight of the mountains of New Caledonia, and

anchored in Balade harbour, where Captain Cook had cast anchor in 1774.

[Footnote 5: Seventh month of the Republican calendar, from 21st March

to 19th April.]

The natives were acquainted with the use of iron, but they did not

appear to value it as highly as others had done, probably because the

stones they used instead were very hard and answered admirably for

their purposes. Their first demand upon going on board was for

something to eat; and their need was unmistakable, for they pointed to

their manifestly empty stomachs. Captain Cook had already remarked

that they managed their pirogues, which were far less ingeniously

constructed than those of the Friendly Islands, unskilfully. The

greater number of these natives had woolly hair, and skins almost as

black as those of the inhabitants of Van Diemen's Land. Their weapons

were assegais and clubs; and in addition to these they carried at the

waist a little bag, full of the oval stones which they throw from

their slings.

[Illustration: Typical native of New Holland. (Fac-simile of early

engraving.)]

After a short excursion inland, during which they visited the huts of

the natives, which were shaped like beehives, the officers and

naturalists prepared to re-embark.

"Upon returning to our boat," says the narrative, "we found more than

seven hundred natives, who had assembled from all directions. They

began by demanding stuffs and iron in exchange for their wares, and

soon some of them proved themselves arrant thieves.

"I will mention one of their many manoeuvres. A man offered to sell me

the little bag of stones which he carried at his waist. He unfastened

it, and pretended to offer it to me in one hand, whilst he held out

the other for the price upon which we had agreed. But at the same

moment another native, who had taken up his stand behind me, uttered a

shrill scream, which made me turn my head in his direction, whereupon

the rogue made off with his bag, and hid himself in the crowd. We were

unwilling to punish him, although most of us carried our guns.

"Unfortunately our leniency might be regarded as a proof of our

weakness, and so add to the native insolence; and an incident which

shortly occurred indicates this was so.

"Some natives were bold enough to throw stones at an officer who was

only about two hundred paces away from us. We were still unwilling to

act harshly, as we had heard so much in their favour from Forster's

narrative, and had such confidence in their good will that still more

evidence was required to convince us of their real character.

"One of them, who was enjoying a broiled bone, and busily devouring

the meat which still clung to it, offered a share of his meal to a

sailor named Piron. He, thinking it to be the bone of some animal,

accepted it, but before eating it showed it to me. I at once

recognized that it had belonged to the body of a child, of probably

fourteen or fifteen years of age. The natives crowding round us,

showed us upon a living child the position of the bone, owning without

hesitation that the man had been making his meal off it, and giving us

to understand that it was a great delicacy.

"Those of our company who had remained on board, could hardly credit

our account of this disgusting fact. They refused to believe that a

people who had been so differently described by Captain Cook and

Captain Forster could be capable of so degrading a practice, but the

most incredulous were soon convinced. I had retained possession of the

gnawed bone, and our surgeon at once recognized it as that of a child.

To make still more sure of the cannibalism of the natives, I offered

it to one of them. He seized it eagerly, and tore the remaining flesh

from it with his teeth; after he had done with it, I passed it to

another, who still found something upon it to relish."

[Illustration: Natives of New Caledonia.]

The natives who visited the vessel, committed so many thefts, and

became so impudent, that we were forced to drive them away. Upon

landing next day, the French found the natives feasting.

They immediately offered a share of their meal to the strangers. It

proved to be human flesh recently cooked.

Many of them even came close up to the French and felt the muscles of

their arms and legs, uttering the word Karapek, with an expression of

admiration and longing which was anything but reassuring.

Many of the officers were assaulted and robbed with the greatest

effrontery. There remained no doubt of the intentions of the natives.

They even attempted to possess themselves of the hatchets the sailors

had brought on shore to cut wood, and were only made to desist by

being fired upon.

These constantly recurring hostilities always ended in the repulse of

the natives, many of whom were killed or wounded. But in spite of the

repulses they met with, they let no favourable opportunity pass of

recommencing their attacks.

La Billardiere was witness to a fact which has since been frequently

observed, but was long disbelieved. He saw the natives eating steatite.

This mineral substance serves to deaden the sense of hunger, by

filling the stomach and sustaining the viscera of the diaphragm, and

although it contains no nourishment whatever, it is useful to them,

because they have long periods when food is scarcely procurable, as

they bestow very little cultivation upon their land, which is

naturally very sterile. Yet, one would scarcely have expected hungry

cannibals to resort to such an expedient.

No news of La Perouse had been obtained during the stay in New

Caledonia. But M. Jules Garnier states that a tradition exists of the

appearance of two large ships, which had sent boats on shore, near the

northern extremity of Pine Island.

"After the first alarm," says M. Jules Garnier, in a communication

which appeared in the "Bulletin de la Societe de Geographie" for

November, 1869, "the natives approached the strangers and fraternized

with them; they were quite astonished at their riches, and their

cupidity induced them to oppose the departure of the French sailors by

force; but their ardour was moderated by a volley which killed a few

of them. Little pleased with their reception, the French vessels

proceeded to the mainland, after letting off a cannon, which the

natives took to be a clap of thunder."

It is strange that D'Entrecasteaux, who entered into communications

with the natives of Pine Island, should have heard nothing of these

events. The island is small, and its population has always been scanty.

The natives must have kept secret the fact of their dealings with La

Perouse.

Had D'Entrecasteaux, in his navigation among the coral reefs which

protect the eastern coast of New Caledonia, succeeded in entering one

of the many openings he met with, he might have found some trace of

the course taken by La Perouse, who was a careful navigator, and

anxious to emulate Cook, who had touched at several points of that

coast. A whaler, whose account is quoted by Rienzi, declared that he

had seen medals and a cross of St. Louis, relics of the French

expedition, in possession of the natives of New Caledonia.

M. Jules Garnier, during a voyage from Noumea to Canala, in March,

1865, observed in the hand of one of their native escort, "an old

rusty sword, in the fashion of the last century," which bore the

impression of the "fleur-de-lys." He could obtain no account of it

from its possessor, except that he had had it a long time.

There is no evidence that any member of the expedition gave a sword,

still less a cross of the order of St. Louis, to a savage. No doubt an

officer had fallen in some encounter, and thus these articles had come

into native hands.

This hypothesis accords with M. Garnier's explanation of the

contradictory accounts given by Cook and D'Entrecasteaux of the people

of Balade. According to the former, they are peaceable, honest, and

friendly; according to the latter, they are robbers, traitors, and

cannibals. M. Jules Garnier suggests that some extraordinary event

must have changed the disposition of the natives between the two

visits. Most likely an encounter had taken place. The Europeans may

have been driven to the use of arms: they may possibly have destroyed

plantations and burnt huts. In such a case their hostile reception of

D'Entrecasteaux would be explicable.

La Billardiere, in his account of an excursion to the mountains

forming the water-shed of the northern extremity of New Caledonia, and

from which the sea can be seen on either side, says,--

"We were followed by three natives, who had no doubt seen us a year

previously, when we coasted the eastern shores of their island, for

before they left us they spoke of two ships which they had seen upon

that coast."

La Billardiere ought to have pressed the natives upon this subject.

Were the vessels seen by them those of La Perouse or of

D'Entrecasteaux: and was it really "a year previously"?

From these details we see how much it is to be regretted that

D'Entrecasteaux did not pursue his investigations more zealously. No

doubt, had he done so, he would have found traces of his

fellow-countrymen. We shall shortly see, that with a little

perseverance he would have found some at least, if not all of them

alive.

During the stay in this port Captain Huon de Kermadec succumbed to a

hectic fever from which he had long been suffering. He was succeeded

in the command of the _Esperance_ by M. D'Hesminy d'Auribeau.

Leaving New Caledonia upon the 21st Floreal,[6] D'Entrecasteaux

sighted successively Moulin and Huon Islands, and Santa Cruz de

Mendana, which is separated from New Jersey by a strait, in which the

French vessels were attacked by the natives.

[Footnote 6: Eighth month of the Republican calendar, from 18th April

to 20th May.]

To the south-east D'Entrecasteaux observed an island, which he named

after the _Recherche_, and which he might have called Discovery if he

had approached it. It was Vanikoro, an islet surrounded by coral reefs,

upon which La Perouse's vessels had been wrecked, and which at this

time, in all probability, was inhabited by some of the unfortunate

seamen. It was most unfortunate to be so near success, and yet to miss

it! But the veil which hid the fate of La Perouse and his companions

was not destined to be removed for a long time yet.

After surveying the northern extremities of Santa Cruz, without any

result so far as the object of his expedition was concerned,

D'Entrecasteaux directed his course to De Surville's Land of the

Arsacides. He reconnoitred the northern coast, and thence reached the

shores of Lousiade, which La Perouse had announced his intention of

visiting when he left Salomon Island, and surveyed Cape Deliverance.

Bougainville was wrong in supposing that this cape belonged to New

Guinea; it is the extreme point of an island, called Rossel after one

of the officers who has given an account of the expedition.

After coasting along a series of low and rocky islands, which were

named after the principal officers, the vessels reached Cape William,

on the coast of New Guinea. They then directed their course to

Dampier's Strait. After sailing along the northern coast of New

Britain, several small and mountainous islands, hitherto unknown, were

discovered. Upon the 17th of July a small island in the neighbourhood

of the Anchorite Islands was sighted.

D'Entrecasteaux had long been suffering from dysentery and scurvy, and

was in extreme danger. Following the advice of his officers, he

decided to take leave of the _Esperance_, and endeavoured to reach

Waihoun more quickly. Upon the 20th of July he sunk under long and

protracted sufferings. After a stay at Waihoun and Bouro Islands, at

which latter place the President overwhelmed the French with

civilities, and where Bougainville was still remembered by the natives,

the expedition left, under command of D'Auribeau. He also

unfortunately fell ill, and the command was transferred to Rossel,

under whose orders the vessels passed first Boutong, and then Saleyer

Straits, and reached Sourabaya upon the 19th of October.

[Illustration: View of the Island of Bouron.]

Sad news here awaited the members of the expedition. Louis XVI. had

been beheaded. France was at war with Holland and all the European

powers. Although both the _Recherche_ and the _Esperance_ needed many

repairs, and the health of the crews needed repose, D'Auribeau was

about to start for Mauritius, when he was detained by the Dutch

governor. Fearing that the news from Europe, affecting as it did the

various members of the expedition so differently, might lead to

disaffection in his colony, he subjected his "prisoners," as he called

the French, to most humiliating conditions, which they could not

escape. Irritation and hatred were rampant, when it occurred to

D'Auribeau to unfurl the white flag. However, the greater part of the

officers and men of science, amongst them Billardiere, obstinately

refused to respect the conditions imposed; and being arrested by order

of the Dutch authorities, were distributed throughout the different

ports of the colony.

After the death of D'Auribeau, which occurred upon the 21st of Aug.,

1794, Rossel became head of the expedition. He undertook to convey all

documents of every kind collected during the voyage to France; but

being taken prisoner by an English frigate, he was deprived of his

property, in defiance of justice; and when France obtained the objects

of natural history, of which she had been robbed--the expression is

not too strong when we recall the instructions given by the French

government with regard to Captain Cook's expedition--they were in so

bad a condition that they had lost much of their value.

Thus ended this unfortunate expedition. Although its principal object

had not been attained, it had at least resulted in some geographical

discoveries; it had completed or rectified those made by preceding

navigators; and to it, especially to the exertions of La Billardiere,

are due the acquisition of an immense number of facts in natural

history.

III.

Captain Marchand's voyage--The Marquesas--Discovery of Nouka-Hiva--

Manners and customs of the inhabitants--Revolution Islands--The coast

of America and Tchinkitane Port--Cox Strait--Stay at the Sandwich

Islands--Macao--Disappointment--Return to France--Discoveries made by

Bass and Flinders upon the Australian coast--Captain Baudin's

expedition--Endracht and De Witt Islands--Stay at Timor--Survey of Van

Diemen's Land--Separation between the _Geographe_ and the

_Naturaliste_--Stay at Port Jackson--Convicts--Agricultural wealth of

New South Wales--Return of the _Naturaliste_ to France--Cruise of the

_Geographe_ and of the _Casuarina_ to the Islands of Nuyts, Edels,

Endracht, and De Witt--Second stay at Timor--Return to France.

Etienne Marchand, a captain in the merchant service, returning to

France from Bengal in 1788, met with the English Captain Portlock in

the roadstead of St. Helena. Their conversation naturally fell upon

commerce, and the value of various articles of trade. Like a sensible

man, Marchand allowed his companion to talk, and only put in a few

words himself now and again, and thus drew from Portlock the

interesting information that furs, and more especially otter skins,

which could be obtained for a mere trifle upon the eastern coast of

North America, realized an enormous price in China; whilst at the same

time a cargo brought from the Celestial Empire would return a large

profit in Europe.

Upon arriving in France, Marchand communicated what he had learned to

his ship-owners, MM. Baux of Marseilles, and they at once resolved to

act upon the knowledge he had obtained. Navigation in the Pacific

Ocean required a ship of special strength and excellence. MM. Baux

ordered the construction of a vessel of 300 tons' burden, plated with

copper, and provided with every necessary for defence in case of

attack, and for repairs in the event of accident, and also with

everything likely to promote trade and to ensure the health of the

crews during a voyage of three or four years.

Two captains, MM. Masse and Prosper Chanal, were associated with

Marchand in the command of the expedition, and the rest of the party

consisted of three lieutenants, two surgeons, three volunteers, and a

crew of thirty-nine seamen. Four cannon, two howitzers, four swivel

guns, with the needful ammunition, &c., formed the equipment.

Although the vessel was only to reach Cape Horn at the beginning of

winter, the _Solide_ left Marseilles upon the 14th of December, 1790.

After a short stay at Praya, Cape Verde Islands, Marchand proceeded to

Staten Island, which he reached upon the 1st of April, 1791. He then

doubled Tierra del Fuego, and entered the Pacific. His intention was

to proceed immediately to the north-western coast of America, but at

the beginning of May the water on board was already so tainted that he

required a fresh supply.

Under these circumstances, the captain decided to reach the Marquesas

Islands of Mendoza which are situated in S. lat. 6 degrees, and near

141 degrees west of the Paris meridian.

"The situation of these islands," says Fleurien, who published an

interesting account of this voyage, "was the more suitable for his

purpose, because with a view to escaping the calms often met with in

too easterly a course, he had resolved to cross the line at 142

degrees west longitude."

This group of islands had been discovered in 1595 by Mendoza, and

visited by Cook in 1774. Magdalena Island, the most southerly of the

group, was reached upon the 12th of June.

The captain, and his associate Chanal, had calculated with such

precision, that the _Solide_ anchored off the Mendoza Islands, after a

cruise of seventy-three days from the time of leaving Staten Island,

without having noticed any land whatever. Constant astronomical

observations alone ensured the safety of the vessel in a sea where the

currents were unequal, and it was quite impossible to regulate the

course of the ship by any ordinary calculations.

Marchand made for San Pedro, which lay on the west. He soon recognized

Dominica, Santa Cristina, and Hood Island, the most northerly of the

group, and finally anchored in Madre-de-Dios Bay, where he was

enthusiastically welcomed by the natives, crying "Tayo, Tayo."

Finding it impossible to obtain the number of pigs he required at this

port, the captain decided upon visiting the remaining bays of Santa

Cristina Island, which he found better populated, more fertile, and

more picturesque than that of Madre-de-Dios.

The stay of the English in the Marquesas Islands had been too short to

allow of accurate observations of the manners and customs of the

inhabitants. We will therefore make a few extracts from the

description given by Etienne Marchand.

"These natives are tall, strong, and active. Their complexion is clear

brown, but many differ little in this respect from the lower orders in

Europe. The climate renders clothing unnecessary, but they tattoo

their entire bodies so regularly (each arm and leg, for example,

exactly like its fellow), that the effect is by no means bad. The way

of arranging the hair varies, and fashion is as despotic in the

Marquesas as in other countries. Some wear necklaces of red beads,

others a string of small pieces of light wood. Although both men and

women have their ears pierced, ear-rings are not usually worn. But a

young native girl has been seen strutting about wearing as a neck

ornament the rusty iron shaving-dish which she had stolen from the

ship's barber, whilst a man was equally proud of sporting the ramrod

of Captain Marchand's gun, which he had placed in the orifice of his

ear, letting part of it hang down."

Cook affirms that these islanders, like the Tahitans, were acquainted

with "Kaba." Certain it is that they called the brandy, which was

offered them on the _Solide_, by the name of the pepper-plant. It

appeared that they did not indulge to excess in this liquor, for none

of them were ever seen in a state of drunkenness.

The English did not mention in their account of the natives an act of

civility, which Captain Chanal thought worthy of special record. It

consisted in offering to a friend a piece of food which had been

already chewed, that he might have no trouble but that of swallowing

it. We may easily imagine that the French, in spite of their

appreciation of the good-will conveyed in this action, were little

likely to avail themselves of it.

To Marchand we owe also the curious observation that their huts are

raised upon flat stones, and that the stilts which they use indicate

that Santa Cristina is subject to inundations. In the exhibition at

the Trocadero, one of these stilts, extremely well made and carved,

was exhibited; and M. Hamy, whose thorough knowledge of everything

relating to Oceania is well known, has written an essay upon this

singular object.

Beyond the usual occupations of fishing, the construction of their

weapons, pirogues, and domestic implements, the natives of Santa

Cristina pass their time in singing, dancing, and amusing themselves.

The common expression of "killing the time" seems to have been

invented to mark the uselessness of the actions which make up their

lives.

During the earlier days of the stay in Madre-de-Dios Bay, Marchand had

observed something which led him to the discovery of a group of

islands hitherto unknown to the older navigators or to Cook. Upon a

clear evening, at sunset, he noticed a spot upon the horizon, which

had the appearance of a lofty peak. As this appeared several nights in

succession, he concluded that it was land, and finding it not

mentioned upon any of the charts, it seemed probable that it was some

unknown island.

Marchand determined to satisfy himself upon this point, and leaving

Santa Cristina upon the 20th of June, he had the satisfaction of

discovering a group of small islands in the north-west, which were

situated in 7 degrees south latitude. He gave his own name to the most

important of them. The natives were evidently of the same race as that

which peopled the Marquesas. Shortly afterwards several other islands

were discovered; including Baux Island, which is identical with

Nouka-Hiva, the Deux Freres, and Masse and Chanal Islands. This group,

since united by geographers to that of the Marquesas, received the

name of Revolution Islands.

The course was then directed to the American coast. It was too late in

the season to attempt to reach William's Sound or Cook's River, on the

sixth parallel. Marchand accordingly resolved upon making for Engano

Cape and entering the Norfolk Bay of Dixon, which is identical with

the Guadaloupe Bay of the Spaniards.

Upon the 7th of August Engano Cape was sighted, and after five days of

calm anchor was cast in Guadaloupe Bay. There had not been a single

case of scurvy on board, after 242 days' navigation, ten of which only

were passed in port, at Praya and Madre-de-Dios, and after traversing

some 5800 leagues of sea. This was certainly a wonderful fact, due to

the prevision of the ship-owners, who had spared nothing that could

conduce to the health of the crews, and also to the care with which

the captains had observed the sanitary measures commended to them by

experience.

During his stay in this port, which the natives called Tchinkitane,

Marchand bought a number of otter skins, one hundred of which were of

the very first quality.

The natives are ugly, stunted, but well proportioned. They have round,

flat faces, small, sunken, bleared eyes, and prominent cheek-bones,

which do not add to their beauty.

It is difficult to define the colour of their skins, so carefully is

it disguised under a thick coating of grease, and the black and red

substances which they rub in. Their hair is coarse, thick, and bushy,

covered with ochre, down, and all the filth accumulated by time and

neglect, and adds not a little to their unprepossessing appearance.

The women, though not so black as the men, are even more ugly. They

are short and thick-set; their feet turn inwards, and their incredibly

filthy habits make them repulsive. The coquetry which is innate in the

female mind, induces them to add to their natural charms by the use of

a labial ornament, as ugly as it is inconvenient, of which we have

already spoken in our account of Captain Cook's stay in these waters.

By means of an incision just below the lower lip, they make an opening

parallel to that of the mouth, into which they insert an iron or

wooden skewer, and from time to time they gradually increase the size

of the instrument, in accordance with advancing age.

Finally, they introduce a piece of wood, made for the purpose, of the

size and shape of the bowl of an ordinary table-spoon. This ornament,

weighing upon the projecting part, naturally forces down the lower lip

upon the chin, and developes the beauty of a large, gaping mouth, in

shape not unlike an oven, revealing a row of dirty, yellow teeth. This

bowl is removable at pleasure, and when it is absent the opening in

the lower lip presents the appearance of a second mouth, which is

little smaller than the natural one, and in some cases has been known

to be three inches in length.

The _Solide_ left Tchinkitane upon the 21st of August, and steered to

the south-east, in the hope of coming upon Queen Charlotte's Islands,

which had been discovered in 1786 by La Perouse. These islands extend

over a distance of nearly seventy leagues. Upon the 23rd, Etienne

Marchand sighted Manteau Bay (Dixon's Cloak Bay), which was carefully

surveyed by Captain Chanal.

Next day the vessels entered Cox Strait, and began to trade with the

Indians for furs.

The navigators were immensely astonished at seeing two enormous

paintings, evidently of great age, and some gigantic sculptures, which,

although not bearing the very smallest comparison to the

_chef-d'oeuvres_ of Greece, testified none the less to artistic tastes

little to be expected from the miserable population.

The lands which form Cox Strait and Bay are low and covered with firs.

The soil, composed of the remains of plants and broken rocks, does not

appear to have much depth, and the productions are similar to those of

Tchinkitane.

The population may be estimated at 400. Not unlike Europeans in height

and figure, they are less hideous than the Tchinkitaneans.

This stay in Cloak Bay was not as productive of trade in furs as

Marchand had expected, and he therefore decided to send an expedition

under Captain Chanal to the more southerly islands. The object of the

expedition was the survey of the regions which had hitherto been

unvisited. Dixon was the only navigator who had crossed these waters,

and none of his crew had landed. It is therefore not astonishing that

many of his assertions were either rectified or denied after this more

careful exploration.

After sighting Nootka Sound, Berkley Bay was reached, but just as the

_Solide_ was about to enter it, a three-masted ship was seen

approaching the harbour from the south, which was precisely what

Marchand had intended doing. This decided the French navigator to

proceed immediately to the coast of China, and dispose of his

merchandize before the vessel he now saw should have time to reach it

and compete with him.

The best route to follow was that of the Sandwich Islands, and upon

the 5th of October, the heights of Mauna Loa, and Mauna-Koa were made

out by the French. They seemed quite free from snow, which was

contrary to the description given of them by Captain King.

So soon as Owhyhee Island was in sight, Marchand wisely decided to

conduct all his trade on board. He obtained pigs, fowls, cocoa-nuts,

bananas, and various fruits from this island, and was delighted at

finding amongst them pumpkins and watermelons, no doubt from the seeds

sown by Captain Cook.

Four days were passed in trade, then the route to China was resumed,

and in due course Tinian Island, one of the Mariannas, was sighted.

Commodore Anson's glowing description of this island will be recalled.

Byron, as we have already mentioned, was quite astonished at the

different aspect it presented to him. But the fact is, some fifty

years earlier Tinian was flourishing and counted thirty thousand

inhabitants, and the victorious Spaniards had since introduced an

epidemic which had decimated the population, whilst the miserable

survivors had been torn from their country and sent to Guaham as

slaves.

Marchand did not land at Tinian--which according to the accounts of

every navigator who had visited it since Byron, had relapsed into

barbarism--but made for the southern extremity of Formosa.

Reaching Macao upon the 28th of November, he heard news which

disconcerted him. The Chinese Government had just passed a law

prohibiting the introduction of furs into the ports of the empire

under most severe penalties. Was this the result of some unknown

clause in a secret treaty with Russia, or was it due to the cupidity

and avarice of a few mandarins? In either case it was impossible to

infringe the law.

Marchand wrote to MM. Baux's agents in Canton; but the same

prohibition held good in that town also, and it was useless to think

of reaching Whampoa, where he would have had to pay duty, amounting to

at least six thousand piastres.

The only course open to Marchand was to go to Mauritius, and thence

return to Marseilles. It is unnecessary to describe the return voyage,

which was accomplished without any unusual incidents.

What were the scientific results of this expedition? Nothing to speak

of, from a geographical point of view. They may be enumerated as

follows:--The discovery of that portion of the Marquesas Islands which

had escaped the notice of Captain Cook and his predecessors, a more

thorough examination of the country, and the manners and customs of

the natives of Santa Christina in the same group, of Tchinkitane and

Cloak Bays, and of Queen Charlotte's Islands off the American coast.

Small as these results might appear for an official expedition, they

were not unsatisfactory for a vessel equipped by private enterprise;

moreover, Captain Marchand and his colleagues had turned new

discoveries to such good account, and studied the narratives of

earlier voyagers so carefully, that they carried out the plan of their

expedition more precisely than many experienced navigators might have

done. And, in their turn, they rendered valuable assistance to their

successors by the accuracy of their charts and drawings.

Circumstances were to prove less favourable for the publication of an

account of a scientific expedition undertaken some years later, under

the auspices of the French Government, having for its object the

survey of the Australian coast. Although the results of the voyage

made by Nicolas Baudin were most abundant, they seem up to this date

to have been little recognized, and scientific dictionaries and

biographies say as little as possible of his expedition.

From the time of Tasman's discovery of the western coast of New

Holland, much had been done towards exploring this immense continent.

Cook had carefully surveyed the eastern coast, discovering Endeavour

Strait, and had urged upon his government the great advantages which

would accrue from the founding of a colony in Botany Bay. In 1788,

Philip, with his band of convicts, had laid the foundation of Port

Jackson and of English power in this fifth continent of the world. In

1795 and 1796, Flinders, a midshipman, and Surgeon Bass, with a small

vessel called the _Tom Thumb_, had explored twenty miles of the River

George, and made a careful survey of a long stretch of coast.

In 1797, Bass discovered a large harbour, which he named Western Port

on account of its situation.

"His provisions were now exhausted," says Desborough Coolley, "and in

spite of his earnest wish to make an accurate and minute survey of his

new discoveries, he was obliged to retrace his steps. He was only

provided with provisions for six weeks; still, by aid of fish and

sea-birds, which he obtained in abundance, he succeeded in extending

his voyage for another five weeks, although he had taken on board two

convicts, whom he had picked up. This voyage of six hundred miles in

an open boat, is one of the most remarkable on record. It was not

undertaken from necessity, but with the view to exploring unknown and

dangerous shores."

In 1798, Bass, accompanied by Flinders, discovered the strait which

now bears his name, and which divides Tasmania from New Holland, and

in a schooner of some twenty-five tons' burden, he made the tour of

Van Diemen's land. These brave adventurers collected facts, and made

observations of the rivers and ports of this country which were of

great use in the future colonization of the continent. Bass and

Jackson were both enthusiastically received at Port Jackson.

Upon his return to England, Flinders received command of the

_Investigator_, with the rank of naval lieutenant. This vessel was

especially equipped for a voyage of discovery upon the Australian

coast. The south and north-western shores, the Gulf of Carpentaria,

and Torres Straits, were to be explored.

Public attention in France had been attracted to New Holland by the

narratives published by Cook and D'Entrecasteaux. This wonderful

continent, with its strange unknown animals, and forests of gigantic

eucalyptus, alternating with barren plains producing nothing but

prickly plants, was long to present all but invincible obstacles to

the explorer.

The French Institute was the mouthpiece of popular opinion, in

demanding from the government the organization of an expedition to the

southern continent. As a result of their representations, twenty-four

scientific men were selected to participate in the voyage.

No previous expedition had been so fortunate in the number of

scientific men attached to the staff. Astronomers, geographers,

mineralogists, botanists, zoologists, draughtsmen, and gardeners, all

mustered four or five strong. Foremost amongst them we may mention,

Leschenaut de Latour, Francois Peron, and Borg de Saint Vincent.

Officers and sailors had been carefully selected. Among the first were

Francois-Andre Baudin, Peureux de Melay, Hyacinthe de Bougainville,

Charles Baudin, Emmanuel Hamelen, Pierre Milius, Mangin, Duval d'Ailly,

Henri de Freycinet, all of whom in after-life rose to be admirals or

vice-admirals; Le Bas Sante-Croix, Pierre Gillaume Gicquel,

Jacques-Philippe Montgery, Jacques de Saint Cricq, Louis de Freycinet,

all future naval captains.

The narrative says, "The plans for the expedition were such as to

guarantee its success, and the attainment of the results so eagerly

desired. All the experiences of preceding navigators, in the latitudes

through which we were to pass, all that theories and reasoning could

suggest, had been called into requisition. Most accurate calculations

of the variable winds, monsoons, and currents had been made, and the

misfortunes which overtook us were in every case due to our deviation

from our valuable instructions."

A third vessel of lesser draught was equipped at the Mauritius. The

navigators were then to proceed to Van Diemen's Land, D'Entrecasteaux,

Bass, and Banks Straits, and thence, having determined the situation

of the Hunter Islands, to pass behind St. Peter and St. Francis

Islands, and survey the country behind them, in the hope of finding

the strait supposed to be connected with the Gulf of Carpentaria and

to divide New Holland into two parts.

This survey accomplished, Leuvin, Edels, and Endracht Islands were

next to be visited, Swan River to be followed as far as possible, and

a survey taken of Rottnest Island and the coast near it. From thence

the expedition was to proceed to Shark Bay, to determine various

points in De Witt Land, and, leaving the coast at North West Cape, to

go to Timor, in the Moluccas, for a well-earned rest.

After allowing sufficient time for the crews to recover from their

fatigue, the coast of New Guinea was to be surveyed, with the view to

ascertaining whether it was broken up into islands by various straits,

the further portion of Gulf of Carpentaria was to be explored, various

districts in Arnheim Land were to be reconnoitred, and from thence the

expedition was to proceed to Mauritius, on its way to Europe.

A more splendid programme was impossible, and it was clearly traceable

to the able mind which had laid down the route taken by La Perouse and

D'Entrecasteaux. If the expedition were skilfully conducted the

results could not fail to be considerable.

The _Geographe_, a corvette of thirty guns, and the _Naturaliste_, a

large transport ship, were equipped at Havre for the expedition.

Nothing had been forgotten, the provisions were abundant and of good

quality; each vessel was provided with all kinds of scientific

instruments by the best makers, a library of the most trustworthy

authorities, passports couched in the most flattering terms and signed

by every government in Europe, and unlimited credit in all the towns

of Asia and Africa. In short, every possible measure was taken to

ensure the success of this important expedition.

Upon the 19th of October, 1800, the two vessels left Havre amidst the

acclamations of an immense multitude. A short stay was made at Port

Santa Cruz in Teneriffe, and thence they proceeded without stopping to

Mauritius, where several officers were left who were too ill to

proceed when the expedition set sail upon the 25th of April, 1801.

This was not an encouraging beginning, and discontent was rife when it

was ascertained that the allowance of fresh bread was to be limited to

half a pound weekly, and that the usual ration of wine was to be

replaced by three-sixths of a bottle of the inferior tafia of

Mauritius, whilst biscuits and salt meats were to be the staple food.

This ill-advised economy resulted in the illnesses of the crew, and

the discontent of many of the scientific staff.

The length of the voyage from France to Mauritius, and the long stay

in that island, had consumed much valuable time, and the favourable

season was on the wane. Baudin, fearing to attempt to reach Van

Diemen's Land, decided to commence his exploration upon the north-west

coast of New Holland. He forgot that he would thus maintain a

southerly course, so that his advance would coincide with that of the

season.

The coast of New Holland was discovered upon the 27th of May. It was

low, barren, and sandy. Geography Bay, Naturalist Cape, Depuch Creek,

and Piquet Point, were successively sighted and named. In the

last-named spot the naturalists landed, and reaped a rich harvest of

plants and shells.

Meantime, however, the violence of the waves carried away the two

vessels, and twenty-five of the crew were forced to spend several days

on shore, unable to obtain any but brackish water. They could not

succeed in killing any sort of game, and their only nourishment was a

species of samphire, containing a quantity of carbonate of soda and

acid juice.

A sloop which had been driven on shore by the force of the waves had

to be abandoned, together with guns, sabres, cartridges, cables,

tackle, and many other valuable articles.

"But the worst part of this last misfortune," says the narrative, "was

the loss of Vasse, of Dieppe, one of the most able of the crew of the

_Naturaliste_. Swept away by the waves three times in his efforts to

re-embark, he was finally swallowed up without the possibility of

assistance being rendered to him, or even the fact of his death being

ascertained--so violent were the waves, and so dark the night!"

The foul weather continued, the wind blew in hurricanes, fine rain

fell uninterruptedly, and the _Naturaliste_ was lost to view in a

thick fog which prevailed until Timor was reached.

Upon reaching Rottnest Island--which he had named as a place of

rendezvous to Captain Hamilton in case of separation--Baudin, to the

surprise of every one, gave orders to make for Shark's Bay, upon the

coast of Endracht Island.

The coast of this part of New Holland is a succession of low and

almost level sandy barren lands, with grey or reddish soil,

intercepted here and there by slight ravines. The coast is almost

perpendicular, and is protected by inaccessible reefs; it well

deserves the name of "the iron coast," which was bestowed upon it by

the able hydrographer, Boullanger.

From Dirk Hartog Island (where Endracht Land commences), Doore Islands,

Bernier Islands (where troops of kangaroos were met with), and Dampier

roadstead, were successively sighted, as far as Shark's Bay, which was

thoroughly explored.

[Illustration: Native hut in Endracht Land. (Fac-simile of early

engraving.)]

Upon leaving Endracht Land, which offers no attractions, De Witt

Land--extending from the North West Cape to Arnheim Land, over ten

degrees of latitude and fifteen of longitude--was thoroughly surveyed.

Much the same incidents and dangers were met with by the explorers as

they successively named Hermit and Forester islands, the latter with

volcanic soil. The Basseterre, in Geography channel--low lands, which

were avoided with difficulty--with Bedont and Lacepede Islands, Capes

Borda and Mollien, Champagny d'Arcole, Freycinet, Lucas, and other

islands, were seen and named.

"Amidst these numberless islands," says the narrative, "there was

little to please the navigators. The sun shines unprotected by any

clouds, and, except during the nocturnal storms, there is no movement

even of the water. Man appears to have fled from this ungrateful soil,

for no trace of his presence is to be seen."

It is difficult for the traveller, who turns in despair from the

inhospitable islands of this forsaken coast, where dangers of every

sort assail him, and no provisions are to be had, to reflect that this

barren country adjoins groups of Asiatic islands upon which nature has

lavished her treasures and delights with a liberal hand.

The discovery of the Buonaparte Archipelago completed the survey of

this miserable region. It is situated between 13 degrees 15 minutes S.

lat. and 123 degrees 30 minutes long. W. of Paris.

"The wretched food upon which we had lived since we left Mauritius had

tried the strongest constitutions. The ravages of scurvy had been

severely felt, our store of water was very low, and there was no

possibility of replenishing it in this miserable region. The time

approached for the return of the monsoon, and its accompanying storms

must be avoided on this coast; above all, we must procure a boat to

enable us to rejoin the _Naturaliste_."

Moved by all these considerations, the captain decided to direct his

course to Timor Island, and he anchored there upon the 22nd of August,

in the roadstead of Coupang.

It is unnecessary to enter into details of the reception accorded to

the navigators. Hospitality and kindness are ever valuable to the

recipients, but there is a sameness in an account of them which is

wearisome to the reader. We need only dwell upon the sore need of rest

for the suffering crew: ten of those who landed were in the worst

stage of scurvy, and many others had the swollen and inflamed gums

which precede the attack of this scourge of seamen.

Unfortunately, although the scurvy yielded to the remedies applied, it

was succeeded by dysentery, which in a few days laid low eighteen men.

[Illustration: King of the Island of Timor. (Fac-simile of early

engraving.)]

At length, upon the 21st of September, the _Naturaliste_ appeared. Her

captain had patiently awaited the arrival of the _Geographe_ in

Shark's Bay, that being the rendezvous appointed by Baudin, but which

he had failed to keep. The officers availed themselves of this stay

thoroughly to survey the shores of Rottnest Island, and to explore the

Swan River, and Albrolhos or Houtman Rocks.

Two Dutch inscriptions, scratched upon tin plates, had been discovered

by Captain Hamelin upon Dirk Hartog Island. One recorded the passage,

upon the 25th of October, 1616, of the ship _Eendraght_, from

Amsterdam; and the other, the stay of the _Geelwinck_ in this port in

1697, under command of Captain Vlaming.

"The result of the examinations made by the officers of the

_Naturaliste_ was as follows:--The so-called Shark's Bay extends from

Cape Cuvier on the north, to Freycinet Gulf; the eastern coast is all

part of the mainland; and the western consists of the islet of Koks,

Bernier, Doore, and Dirk Hartog Islands, and a small portion of the

mainland. The peninsula of Peron occupies the centre of this extensive

bay, and to the east and west are the harbours of Hamelin and Henri

Freycinet."

Unfortunately even the sickness among their unfortunate crews did but

restore temporary concord between Captain Baudin and his staff. He

himself had been attacked by a fever, and for a few hours it was

supposed that he was dead.

Upon his recovery eight days later, however, he did not hesitate to

place one of his officers, M. Picquet, ensign, under arrest. All the

members of his staff disapproved of this action, and offered

repeatedly many flattering tokens of their esteem and regard to the

disgraced officer. As M. Picquet was made lieutenant upon his return

to France, it would appear that he was not in fault.

Captain Baudin had deviated from the instructions given him by the

Institute. He now proceeded to Van Diemen's Land, leaving Timor upon

the 13th of November, 1801. The French found themselves in sight of

the southern coast of this island exactly two months later; the

ravages of disease continued on board, and the number of victims was

considerable.

The two ships at length reached D'Entrecasteaux Strait, which had

escaped the notice of Tasman, Furneaux, Cook, Marion, Hunter and Bligh,

and the discovery of which was the result of a mistake, which might

have had dangerous consequences. The vessels had anchored in this spot

for the sake of obtaining water, and several boats were sent in search

of it.

"At half-past nine," says Peron, "we were at the mouth of Swan River.

This spot appeared to me to exceed in beauty and picturesque effect

anything that I had hitherto met with. Seven mountain ranges rise one

above the other, forming the background of the harbour; whilst on the

right and left lofty hills shut it in, and present the appearance of a

number of rounded capes and romantic creeks. Vegetation is most

luxuriant, the shores abound in hardy trees, growing so densely that

it is almost impossible to penetrate into the forest. Flocks of

paroquets and cockatoos, of most brilliant plumage, hover above them,

while the blue-ringed tomtits sport beneath their branches. The sea

was almost calm, and scarcely ruffled by the passage of the

innumerable black swans continuously passing to or fro."

[Illustration: The Swan River. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]

All who went in search of a watering-place were not equally pleased

with their reception by the natives.

Captain Hamelin, in company with MM. Leschenant and Petit, and several

officers and sailors, had encountered some natives, to whom he offered

various presents. As they were about to re-embark the French were

assailed by a shower of stones, one of which wounded Captain Hamelin

severely. The natives brandished their assegais, and made many

threatening gestures, but could not provoke the strangers to retaliate

by a single shot--a most rare example of moderation and humanity!

"The geographical observations made by Admiral D'Entrecasteaux in Van

Diemen's Land are so wonderfully correct," says the narrative, "that

it would be scarcely possible to imagine anything more perfect of

their kind. Their principal author, M. Beautemps-Beaupre has indeed

fully merited the esteem of his fellow countrymen and the gratitude of

all navigators. In every case where investigation was possible, this

skilful engineer made sure of every point. His survey of the strait of

D'Entrecasteaux, and the numberless bays and channels comprised in it,

was especially thorough. Unfortunately his explorations did not extend

to that portion of Van Diemen's Land which lies north-east of the

strait, and which was only superficially examined by the French

boats."

It was to this portion of the coast that the hydrographers more

particularly directed their attention, in the hope that by adding the

results of their observations to that of their fellow-countrymen they

might gain a thorough knowledge of the coast. This undertaking, which

was to complete the results of D'Entrecasteaux's exertions, detained

the navigators until the 6th of February. The details and incidents of

such exploration are always alike, and offer little to interest the

general reader. For this reason we shall not dwell upon them, in spite

of their importance, except when they contain anecdotes of interest.

The _Naturaliste_ and _Geographe_ next proceeded to the exploration of

Banks' and Bass's straits.

"Upon the morning of the 6th of March we coasted the islets of

Taillefer and Schouten Island, at a good distance. Towards mid-day we

found ourselves opposite Forester's Cape, and our skilful geographer,

M. Boullanger, embarked in the long-boat, commanded by M. Maurouard,

to survey the coast. The ship was to follow a route parallel with that

of the boat, of which it was never to lose sight for a moment; but M.

Boullanger had scarcely been gone a quarter of an hour when Capt.

Baudin, without any apparent reason, tacked round and gained the more

open sea. The boat was lost to sight, and the coast was not neared

again until night was approaching. A strong breeze had arisen, which,

increasing every moment, added to the uncertainty of our movements.

Night fell, and the coast upon which we had abandoned our unhappy

comrades was hidden from our sight. The three following days were

vainly spent in the endeavour to find the missing boats."

This calm narration would appear to veil strong indignation against

Captain Baudin.

What can have been his motive for forsaking his sailors and two of his

ablest officers? This is a problem which the most attentive perusal of

Peron's narrative fails to elucidate.

To enter the straits of Banks and Bass was to tread in the footsteps

of the latter, and of Flinders, who had made these waters the special

field of their discoveries; but when, upon the 29th of March, 1802,

the _Geographe_ commenced coasting the south-western shore of New

Holland, one portion of it only was known--that which extends from

Cape Leuwin to St. Peter and St. Francis Islands. The land stretching

from the eastern boundary of Nuytsland to Port Western had never yet

been trodden by an European foot. All the importance of this cruise is

apparent when we reflect that it was undertaken to decide whether New

Holland consisted of one island only, and whether any large rivers

flowed into the sea from it.

Latreille Island, Mount Tabor Cape, Cape Folard, Descartes Bay,

Bouffler Cape, Estaing Bay, Rivoli Bay, Mongo Cape, were all

successively sighted and named. An extraordinary take of dolphins had

delighted the crew, when a sail was seen upon the horizon. It was of

course supposed that it was the _Naturaliste_, from which the

_Geographe_ had been separated by violent storms since the night of

the 7-8 March. As the vessel was making rapid way, she was soon

abreast of the _Geographe_. She carried the English colours. It was

the _Investigator_, under command of Captain Flinders, eight months

from Europe, sent for the completion of the survey of New Holland.

Flinders had been engaged for three months in the exploration of the

coast. He, too, had suffered from storms and tempest in Bass's Strait;

during one of the latter he had lost a boat, containing eight men and

his chief officer.

[Illustration: A sail was seen on the horizon.]

The _Geographe_ visited in succession Cape Cretet, the Peninsula of

Fleurien (which is about twenty miles in extent), the Gulf of St.

Vincent (so called by Flinders), Kangaroo Island, Althorp Islands,

Spencer Gulf--upon the western coast of which is Port Lincoln, the

finest and safest harbour in New Holland--and the islands of St.

Francis and St. Peter. Certainly Captain Baudin, in order to render

this hydrographical survey complete, should have followed out his

instructions, and penetrated beyond St. Peter and St. Francis Islands.

The weather, however, was too unpropitious, and this exploration was

reserved for a future expedition.

Scurvy meantime made fearful ravages amongst the adventurers. More

than half the crew were incapable of service. Two only of the helmsmen

were in a fit condition for duty. How could anything else be expected

in a vessel which was not provided with either wine or brandy, but was

provisioned only with foetid water, biscuits infested with maggots,

and putrid meats, the mere smell of which was injurious?

Winter, too, had set in in the southern hemisphere, and the crews were

in sore need of rest. The nearest harbour was Port Jackson, and the

shortest passage thither was by Bass's Strait. Baudin, who always

appears to have disliked following a beaten track, thought differently,

and gave orders for doubling the southern extremity of Van Diemen's

Land.

Upon the 20th of May anchor was cast in Adventure Bay. The sick who

could be moved were carried on shore, where water was plentiful. But

the stormy waters were no longer passable; a thick fog prevailed, and

only the sound of the waves breaking upon the shore saved the vessels

from running aground. The number of sick increased. The ocean claimed

a fresh victim each succeeding day. Upon the 4th of June there were

only six men equal to their work, and the tempest increased in fury,

yet the _Geographe_ escaped destruction once more!

[Illustration: The sick were carried on shore.]

Upon the 17th of June a vessel was signalled, and from her captain the

navigators learned that the _Naturaliste_, after waiting vainly for

her consort at Port Jackson, had gone in search of her--that the

abandoned boat had been rescued by an English vessel, and the crew had

been received upon the _Naturaliste_.

The _Geographe_ was awaited with eager impatience at Port Jackson,

where help of every kind was prepared for her.

The _Geographe_ was for three days within reach of Port Jackson, and

yet unable to enter the harbour, for want of able-bodied seamen to

work her. An English sloop, with a pilot, and the necessary men for

working the vessel, was, however, sent to the rescue.

The entrance to Port Jackson is only two miles in width, but it widens

until it forms a large harbour containing water enough for the largest

ships, and space enough to accommodate all comers in perfect safety. A

thousand ships of the line might easily anchor there, according to

Commodore Philips' report.

"Towards the centre of this magnificent port, and upon its southern

coast, the town of Sydney is situated. Built upon two adjacent hills,

and watered by a small river which runs through it, this rising town

presents a pleasant and picturesque appearance.

"The eye is at once struck by the fortifications, and the hospital,

which is large enough to contain two or three hundred sick, and was

brought from England in pieces by Commodore Philips. Immense

warehouses, for the reception of the cargoes of the largest vessels,

are built upon the shore. Ships of all kinds were being constructed in

the yards from the wood of the country."

[Illustration: View of Sydney. (Fac-simile of early engraving.)]

With a sentiment of respect, which almost amounts to veneration, the

sloop in which M. Bass made the discovery of the strait which

separates Tasmania from New Holland is preserved. Snuff-boxes made of

the wood of her keel are valued as relics by their possessors; and the

governor of the fort could think of no more acceptable present for

Captain Baudin than a piece of the wood of this famous vessel, mounted

in silver, upon which the chief details of the discovery of Bass's

Straits were engraved. Equally worthy of admiration were the prison

(capable of lodging two hundred prisoners), the wine and provision

warehouses, the exercising ground (overlooked by the governor's house),

the barracks, observatory, and the English church, of which the

foundations were at this time but just laid.

"The great change in the conduct and condition of the convicts was not

less interesting.

"We found new cause for surprise in the population of the colony. A

more worthy subject for the reflection of a philosopher or statesman

never existed--no brighter example of the influence of social

institutions can be imagined--than that afforded on the distant shores

of which we are speaking. Here are to be found the formidable ruffians

who in a civilized country were the terror of their government.

Transported to these foreign shores, ejected from European society,

and placed from their first arrival between the certainty of

punishment on the one hand and the hope of a better fate in store for

them upon the other, surrounded by a surveillance as benevolent as it

is active, they are absolutely forced to relinquish their anti-social

habits.

"The majority, after expiating their crimes by hard labour, receive

the rank of citizenship. Interested themselves in the maintenance of

order and justice, for the sake of the preservation of such property

as they have accumulated, many of them having become husbands and

fathers, the closest of all ties bind them to their present situation.

"The same revolution, brought about by the same means, takes place in

the lives of the women and wretched girls. By degrees accustomed to

more correct principles of conduct, they in time become the mothers of

hard-working and honest families."

The welcome accorded to the French at Port Jackson was in the highest

degree satisfactory. Every possible facility for the prosecution of

their researches was afforded to the naturalists, whilst the military

authorities and private inhabitants vied with each other in offering

provisions and help of every kind.

Many were the successful excursions in the neighbourhood, and the

naturalists delighted in examining the famous vineyards of Rose Hill,

to which the finest plants from the Cape, the Canary Islands, Madeira,

Xeres, and Bordeaux had been transported.

When questioned, the vine-dressers said the plants sprout more

vigorously here than anywhere else, but the first breath of wind from

the north-west is enough to destroy everything; buds, flowers, and

leaves alike withering beneath its scorching heat.

Somewhat later, the culture of the vine, transported to a more

favourable locality, increased greatly; and although it has as yet not

attained to any remarkable growth, furnishes a wine which is pleasant

to the taste and very alcoholic.

The Blue Mountains, which for a long time bounded European research,

are thirty miles beyond Sydney. Lieutenant Dawes and Captain Tench

Paterson--who explored Hawkesbury River, the Nile of New

Holland--Hacking, Bass, and Barraillier, had alike failed to scale

them.

Already, the thinning of the trees in the neighbouring forests, and

the excellence of the grass, had rendered New South Wales an excellent

pasturage. Cattle and sheep had been largely imported.

"They multiplied so quickly, that in State pastures alone there were

no less than 1800 head of cattle within a short time of our stay at

Port Jackson; of these 514 were bulls, 121 oxen, and 1165 cows. The

increase and growth of these animals was so rapid, that in less than

eleven months the number of oxen and cows had reached from 1856 to

2450, which would be at the rate of increase per annum of 650 head, or

one third of the entire number.

"Carrying this calculation on at the same rate for a period of thirty

years, or even reducing the increase by one half, it is clear that New

South Wales would be teeming throughout its length and breadth with

cattle.

"Sheep farming has had even greater success. The increase of flocks

upon these distant shores is so prolific that Captain MacArthur, one

of the richest landowners of New South Wales, does not hesitate to

assert, in a pamphlet published for that purpose, that in twenty years

New Holland alone will be able to supply England with all the wool

which is now imported from neighbouring countries, and the price of

which amounts yearly to 1,800,000_l_. sterling."

We know now how very little exaggeration there was in these

calculations, although at that time they appeared most wonderful. It

is interesting to read of the growth of this industry, and the

impression produced by it, in its earlier stages, upon the French

navigators.

The crew had many of them recovered their health, but the number of

able sailors was still so small that it was necessary to send the

_Naturaliste_ back to France, after selecting the most healthy of the

crew. She was replaced by a vessel of thirty tons burden, called the

_Casuarina_, the command of which was entrusted to Louis de Freycinet.

The slight build and low draught of this vessel made it valuable for

coasting purposes.

The _Naturaliste_, says Peron, with the records of the expedition, and

the results of the observations made during the two voyages, also took

away with it "more than 40,000 animals of different kinds, collected

from the various countries which had been visited during the two

years." Thirty-two huge cases contained these collections, certainly

the richest ever brought together in Europe, which when exhibited in

the house occupied by myself and M. Bellefin, excited the admiration

of all the English visitors, especially of the celebrated naturalist,

Paterson.

The _Geographe_ and the _Casuarina_ left Port Jackson upon the 18th of

November, 1802. On this new trip the explorers surveyed King Island,

Hunter Island, and the north-western portion of Van Diemen's Land,

thus completing the geography of the coast of this huge island. From

the 27th of December, 1802, till the 15th of February, 1803, Captain

Baudin was engaged in reconnoitring the Kangaroo Islands, upon the

south-western coast of Australia, with the two gulfs opposite to them.

"It was indeed strange," says Peron, "to observe the monotonous and

sterile character of the different portions of New Holland--the

greater on account of its contrast to that of the neighbouring

countries. On the north-west we had been charmed by the fertile

islands of the Timor Archipelago, with their lofty mountains, rivers,

streams, and forests. Yet scarcely forty-eight hours had passed since

we left the desert shores of De Witt Land. Again, on the south, the

wonderful vegetation and smiling slopes of Van Diemen's Land had

excited our admiration, and yet more recently we had been delighted

with the verdure and fertility of King Island.

"The scene changes; we reach the shore of New Holland, and are once

more face to face with the desolation, the description of which must

already have wearied the reader as much as it surprised the

philosopher and oppressed the explorer."

The engineers who accompanied the _Casuarina_ for the survey of

Spencer Gulf, and the peninsula which divides it from the Gulf of St.

Vincent, were obliged to abridge the prosecution of their discoveries

in Lincoln Port, and content themselves with the thorough survey which

enabled them to decide positively that no great river discharges

itself into the ocean in this region. The time for their return to

Kangaroo Island had arrived. But in spite of their conviction that if

they delayed they would be left behind, they did not hasten their

movements sufficiently, and upon reaching the rendezvous found that

the captain of the _Geographe_ had already started, without concerning

himself in the least about the _Casuarina_, although her stock of

provisions was very inadequate.

Baudin decided to continue the exploration of the coast and the survey

of St. Francis Archipelago alone--a most important undertaking, as no

navigator had examined its islands separately since its first

discovery by Peter Nuyts in 1627.

Flinders had really just made this exploration; but Baudin was not

aware of this, and fancied himself the first European who had entered

these waters since their discovery.

When the _Geographe_ reached King George's Harbour upon the 6th of

February, the _Casuarina_ had already arrived there, but in such a

damaged condition that her captain had been obliged to run her aground.

King George's Sound, discovered in 1791 by Vancouver, is of great

importance, as being the only point throughout an extent of coast

equal to the distance between Paris and St. Petersburg where it is

possible to rely upon obtaining sweet water at all seasons of the year.

In spite of its advantages in this respect, the surrounding country is

very barren. M. Boullanger in his "Journal" says, "The aspect of the

country inland at this point is perfectly horrible; even birds are

scarce: it is a silent desert."

In one of the recesses of this bay, known as Oyster Harbour, a

naturalist, named M. Faure, discovered a large river, named after the

French, the mouth of which was as wide as the Seine at Paris. He

undertook to ascend it, and thus penetrated as far as possible into

the interior of the country. About two leagues from the entrance of

the river his further progress was arrested by two embankments,

solidly constructed of stones, connected with a small island, and

forming an impassable obstacle.

This barrier was pierced by several openings, most of them above the

low tide level, and much wider upon the side facing the sea than upon

the other.

By these openings the fish which entered the river at high tide could

easily pass through, but could not return, and were consequently

imprisoned in a sort of reservoir, where the natives could catch them

at their leisure.

M. Faure found no less than five of these erections in the space of

less than the third of a mile--a most singular proof of the ingenuity

of the barbarous natives of the country, who in other respects appear

upon the level of brutes.

In King George's Harbour one of the officers attached to the

_Geographe_, named M. Ransonnet, more fortunate than Vancouver and

D'Entrecasteaux, had an interview with the natives. This was the first

time a European had been able to approach them.

M. Ransonnet says, "We had scarcely appeared when eight natives, who,

upon our first appearance on their coast, had vainly called to us by

cries and gestures, appeared suddenly together. After awhile three of

them, who were no doubt women, went away again. The remaining five,

first throwing their assegais to a distance, to convince us, probably,

of their pacific intentions, assisted us in landing. At my suggestion,

the sailors offered them various presents, which they received with an

air of satisfaction, but without enthusiasm. Whether from apathy, or

as a mark of confidence, they returned the presents to us with a

pleased expression; and upon our once more presenting them with the

same things, they left them upon the ground or surrounding rocks.

"They were accompanied by many large and handsome dogs. I did all I

could to induce them to part with one. I offered them all I had, but

their refusal was persistent. They probably employed them in hunting

the kangaroo, which, with the fish that I had seen them pierce with

their assegais, formed their staple food. They drank some coffee, and

ate some salt beef and biscuits, but refused the bacon we offered, and

left it behind them upon the stones without touching it.

"These natives are tall, thin, and very active. They have long hair,

black eyebrows, short flat noses, sunken eyes, large mouths, with

projecting lips, and fine and very white teeth. The inside of their

mouths seemed as black as the outside of their bodies.

"The three who appeared the oldest among them, and who might have been

from forty to fifty years of age, had large black beards. Their teeth

appeared to have been filed, and the cartilage of the nose pierced.

Their hair was trimmed, and curled naturally.

"The other two, whose ages we took to be from sixteen to eighteen,

were not tatooed at all. Their long hair was gathered into a chignon,

powdered with red dust, similar to that which the elder ones had

rubbed over their bodies.

"They were all naked, and wore no ornament, excepting a large

waistband, composed of a number of small fringed strips of kangaroo

skin. They talked volubly, and sang in snatches, but always in the

same key, and accompanied their song with the same gestures. In spite

of the friendly feeling which continued to exist between us, they

never allowed us to approach the spot where the other natives,

probably their wives, were hidden."

After a stay of twelve days in King George's Harbour, the explorers

again put to sea. They rectified and completed the maps drawn by

D'Entrecasteaux and Vancouver of Lecon, Edel, and Endrant Lands, which

were in turn visited and surveyed, between the 7th and the 26th of

March. Thence Baudin proceeded to De Witt Land, which was almost

unknown when he visited it the first time. He hoped to succeed better

than De Witt, Vianen, Dampier, and St. Allouarn, who had all been

unsuccessful in their efforts to explore it; but the breakers, reefs,

and sandbanks, rendered navigation extremely perilous.

A new source of danger shortly afterwards arose, in the singular

illusion of the mirage. "The effect," says the narrative, "was to make

the _Geographe_ appear to be surrounded by reefs, although at the time

she was a full league away from them, and every one on board the

_Casuarina_ imagined her to be in the most imminent danger. Only when

it became too exaggerated to be real was the magic of the illusion

dispelled."

Upon the 3rd of May the two vessels once more cast anchor in Coupang

Port, Timor Island. One month later, after revictualling, Captain

Baudin set sail for De Witt Land, where he now hoped to find the winds

favourable for an advance to the east. From thence he proceeded to

Mauritius, where he died upon the 16th of September, 1803. It appears

probable that the precarious state of his health had some influence

upon his conduct of this expedition, and possibly his staff would have

had less reason to complain of him had he been in full possession of

all his faculties. This, however, is a question for psychologists to

decide.

[Illustration: Water-carrier at Timor. (Fac-simile of early

engraving.)]

The _Geographe_ entered Lorient roadstead upon the 23rd of March, and

three days later the vast collection of natural curiosities was landed.

The narrative says, "Besides an immense number of cases, containing

minerals, dried plants, fish, reptiles, and zoophytes, preserved in

brandy, stuffed or dissected quadrupeds and birds, we had seventy

large cases filled with vegetables in their natural state, comprising

nearly two hundred species of useful plants, and about six hundred

varieties of seeds. In addition to all this, at least a hundred living

animals."

We cannot better complete our account of the results of this

expedition than by giving an extract from the report laid before the

Government by the Institute, relating more particularly to the

zoological collection made by MM. Peron and Lesueur.

"It comprises more than 100,000 specimens of large and small animals.

Many important new species are already recognized, and there still

remain, according to the statement made by the professor at the museum,

upwards of 2500 to be classified."