JALISCO
Jalisco borders on the Pacific Ocean as well as on the States of
Sinaloa, Durango, Zacatecas, Guanajuato, Michoacán and Colima. In
colonial times it was known as the kingdom of Nueva Galicia. There
are many beautiful valleys and rivers, the largest of the latter, the
Santiago, being six hundred miles long, rising in Lake Lerma in the
State of Mexico and flowing through Lake Chapala, which is itself
seventy miles long and from ten to thirty-five wide. Lake Sayula and
Magdalena are smaller, but noted for their delicious fish.
The climate of Jalisco varies from generally cold in the higher and
northern altitudes to delightfully mild in Guadalajara and hot on the
west coast. The capital of Jalisco is Guadalajara, the population of
which is estimated at two hundred thousand. The city is beautifully
located and is constructed with elegant blocks of houses fronting
on clean, wide and well-paved streets, and the people are noted for
hospitality, culture and refinement, cheerfulness, politeness and
frankness of character. It easily holds the position of the Queen
City of the Republic. Its cathedral, while smaller than that of the
metropolis, is much handsomer and of greater architectural merit.
One of the theatres, Degollado, is one of the most beautiful in the
country. A superb granite penitentiary, built and managed in accordance
with the latest developments and improvements in that line, is greatly
admired by visitors. An entire square is covered by the government
palace, which, while somewhat resembling the national palace in the
City of Mexico, is even more harmonious and elegant in its architecture.
Captain Juan de Oñate founded the Villa del Espiritu Santo de
Guadalajara, which name was given to the town in compliment to Guzman,
whose birthplace was the Spanish city of Guadalajara in New Castile.
But the site then chosen proved undesirable, and a year or two later
the town was removed to the Valley of Tlocatlan, not by the free choice
of the townsfolk, but by the order of the Oidor, where, by a royal
cedula of the emperor, Charles V., dated November 8, 1536, it was
granted a coat of arms as a city. But this second site became the more
distasteful the longer they remained in it, and especially because they
were exposed to the frequent and cruel assaults of the wild Indians.
Commissioners were appointed to choose a site and decided upon a fair
valley called Atamazac; and eight days later all the townsfolk went out
together in good order and in that fair valley made their home. In this
spirited fashion was the present City of Guadalajara founded in the
year of our Lord, 1541.
In this city is the celebrated “Assumption” of Murillo, which belongs
to the cathedral and hangs in the sacristy. Its authenticity is not a
matter of doubt.
The foundation of this cathedral was laid in 1548. The present building
was commenced in 1561, and the corner stone was laid in 1571, by Bishop
Ayala. The building was completed in 1618. Its towers were thrown
down by the earthquake of 1818, and the clock between the towers was
badly injured. The interior is rich in decorations and paintings. The
two towers of this cathedral are wholly unlike any others in Mexico.
In one of them is the “campanito del correo” the little bell of the
courier, which rang only in the announcement of some important event.
Another bell called San Clemente, was in former times rung during
a thunderstorm to ward off lightning. An important adjunct to the
cathedral is the Sagrario, a comparatively new structure, commenced in
1808, and completed in 1843. The churches are numerous and interesting
historically. In loyalty to the church, Guadalajara is second to no
other city in Mexico and makes good its claim by works of charity and
mercy.
One of the most famous of the institutions of Guadalajara is the
Hospicio. The building is an imposing one of white stone, handsome and
attractive, covering an entire square, and containing twenty-five
patios or courts, with fountains, flowers, shrubs, palms and trees,
from which echo the melodious reverberating songs of children and
birds, which seem to touch the hearts of all visitors, and to embody
almost a life in itself. This is not a hospital, as is popularly
supposed, but a home for the poor of all ages, from the baby in the
cradle to the aged nearing the grave. The institution is admirably
managed under authority of the State of Jalisco. Children are taught
all that may be learned in schools of the highest order, and as they
grow older they learn some useful occupation in the higher arts and
sciences. The product of their labor is offered for sale in support of
the Hospicio and includes some of the most exquisite embroideries and
laces, made by the girls.
[Illustration: GOVERNMENT PALACE, GUADALAJARA.]
The public square and jardines in Guadalajara are pretty and well-kept.
Twice a week and on Sundays an excellent band discourses sweet music in
the plaza, attracting a large crowd of people. There the best society
and the prettiest young ladies are seen. By common consent the sexes
and classes separate on the promenade. The inner or wider promenade
is reserved for the better class. The gentlemen keep in line on one
side and in one direction while the ladies do the same in an opposite
direction, the two streams passing each other constantly.
The plaza is a beautiful garden surrounded by magnificent buildings.
On one side is the government palace, on another, the cathedral, and
on the other two sides are long rows of portales, with their graceful
arches. Guadalajara is one of the brightest of Mexican cities and has
many charms within its gates. The government building has a modern air
that is pleasing; its stucco is colored a light gray, and its white
trimmings are decidedly agreeable to the eye.
The American Club is the general meeting place for Americans of the
city and vicinity. The Country Club, just organized, is composed of
Americans and other foreigners, as well as a number of Mexicans. The
French and German colonies in the city have their respective clubs.
There are two church congregations of Americans and English--the
Union Church and St. Marks’ Episcopal Mission. The Methodists,
Congregationalists and Baptists maintain mission schools and chapels.
[Illustration: STREET SCENE, GUADALAJARA.]
The government building has an inscription of a Bible passage. “Nisi
Dominus custodierit civitatem, frustra vigilat qui custodit eam.”
“Except the Lord keep the city, the watchman waketh but in vain.”
[Illustration: DEGOLLADO THEATRE, GUADALAJARA.]
In one of the principal squares is the monument commemorative of
General Ramón Corona, a brave soldier, whose memory is loved by all
true Mexicans, and who was assassinated by a lunatic in 1880.
The Chapala Hydro-Electric and Irrigation Company, which owns the water
rights and franchises, is now installing new plants on the Santiago
with a capacity of fifteen thousand horse-power to furnish additional
current to Guadalajara and the mining districts in the northwestern
part of Jalisco, and this will bring the total production of electrical
energy of that company up to twenty-five thousand horse-power.
The city is equipped with a successful modern sanitary sewer system,
constructed by Americans at an immense cost, and has an abundance of
the purest mountain water, brought through a subterranean aqueduct from
the Colomos range. Several artesian wells have been bored for auxiliary
supply to the city system.
The new colonies that have been opened in this city are very beautiful
and the houses are constructed in splendid style and the architecture
is exceedingly fine. Many of the English and American residents have
built mansions and the Country Club is one of the most exclusive clubs
in the republic. Mr. Samuel E. Magill, the American Consul, is much
appreciated in Guadalajara. Mexico glories in her watering places and
pleasure resorts. Lake Chapala is the largest lake in the republic.
The principal village on this little inland sea is Chapala, where
there are some famous hot springs and a fine new hotel of modern
equipment called the Ribera Castellanos. This resort is very convenient
to Guadalajara. No more charming excursion for a lover of beautiful
scenery can be found in all Mexico than around this beautiful lake. For
water-fowl shooting during the fall and winter months and for sailing
and bathing during the entire year, these shores are delightful. Most
all the members of Mexican society find themselves there during Holy
Week and other holidays. The President goes on his yearly hunting
trip to these parts, accompanied by his son and some members of his
cabinet and intimates. He is noted for his powers of endurance, often
outstripping the others in his ardent quest for game.
San Pedro is the favorite suburb of Guadalajara where the famous
pottery-ware is made. This celebrated pottery is known the world over.
This is a rich agricultural and fruit-growing country, producing large
crops of wheat, corn and sugar, and the finest oranges that grow in the
republic.
La Piedad, one of the quaint old places, has a population of some eight
thousand. La Barca is a city of twelve thousand people, situated on
the Lerma or Santiago River, near where it empties into Lake Chapala.
Fifty miles west of La Barca and fifteen miles east of Guadalajara, at
the station of El Castillo, a tramway conveys passengers to the famous
Falls of Juanacatlan, justly called the “Niagara of Mexico.” The river
at this point plunges over a precipice sixty-five feet in height to
the rocks below, making a picture of grandeur and interest well worth
seeing.
[Illustration: THE HOSPICIO, GUADALAJARA.]
Sixteen miles beyond La Barca lies Ocotlan. This pretty place is on
the River Sula, a short distance above its junction with the Lerma.
The station is connected with the town by street cars, which run to
the bridge just above the steamboat landing. Ocotlan is situated on a
plain which slopes southward a few miles to the shore of the lake. With
its pretty plaza, its beautiful church spire, its portales, and two
bridges, Ocotlan is very picturesque.
[Illustration: PATIO OF THE AMERICAN CONSULATE, GUADALAJARA.]
Atequisa is in sight half a mile away on the left. Atequisa hacienda
has miles of wheat-fields, hundreds of oxen and other animals and
thousands of men at work on its farms or ranches. Here are the
headquarters of the vast estate, storehouses, corrals, workmen’s homes,
mills, hospitals, school houses and a church, besides the princely
residence of the owner. There are other fine haciendas, and among those
may be found the most cordial hospitality in the world. The life of a
country gentleman here is that of a hermit, in the total absence of all
society in the nearly unbroken solitude that surrounds him. For leagues
and leagues there may be no habitation but his own, the nearest village
may be distant half a day’s journey over an almost impassable road. But
he is “monarch of all he surveys,” a king among his farm servants and
Indian workmen. Nothing can exceed the independence of his position.
Capitalists who seek a sure and productive investment for their money
should take into account not only the richness of the soil, the
mildness of the climate and the thousand attractions offered by life in
that zone, but also the assured importance of Guadalajara as a railway
centre of first rank with facilities for transportation of its varied
products rapidly, not only to the principal markets of the republic but
also to those abroad, for which it will have seven or eight points of
outlet.
One of these products that will seek speedy exportation will be the
mineral wealth of Jalisco, which exists in great quantities and which
possesses a richness of which there is now but little known.
There are more than two hundred and fifty mines, the greater number
being of silver with some traces of gold, three or four of gold, some
of copper, and others of quicksilver, iron, lead and other metals.
The city of Guadalajara has had for many years a mint in constant
activity, coining silver and gold from the mines of Jalisco.
Mining in Jalisco is in its infancy and awaits only the energetic and
decisive action of companies with sufficient capital to astonish the
continent with the fabulous riches of its veins, many of them as yet
untouched.
Guadalajara with its constant sunshine, its skies even bluer than those
of far-famed Italy, and its mellow, genial warmth, is one of the most
beautiful garden spots of the world.
The intellectual condition of Jalisco is up to the standard of modern
times and lifts the people into a state above the ordinary. The schools
are of the best, the State and the cities spending large sums of
money on them, so that the primaries are being extended even to the
distant ranches, while the secondary and professional schools rank
among the best in Mexico. Jalisco’s lawyers have attained the highest
reputation, her doctors command the respect of all, her engineers have
attained national fame and her “Seminario de los Obispos” (Seminary of
the Bishops) is known everywhere as having graduated some of the most
notable of the Mexican clergy.
[Illustration: LAKE CHAPALA, JALISCO.]
[Illustration: THE JUAREZ THEATRE, GUANAJUATO.]
[Illustration: VIEW OF THE PORFIRIO DIAZ TUNNEL, GUANAJUATO.]