CHAPTER XXVII

CHIHUAHUA

Separated from the United States of America by the Rio Grande,

Chihuahua is the largest State in the Republic. It cannot be termed a

beautiful State from a scenic point of view, but there are parts where

it furnishes picturesque scenery not to be outrivalled anywhere in

the world. A prolongation of the Sierra Madre mountains traverses the

western part of the State and is rich in minerals. It is practically

an undulating tableland, the plains averaging four thousand to five

thousand feet above the sea, while the mountain-tops rarely rise more

than a thousand feet higher. The climate is pleasant, the seasons being

about like those of southern Texas.

The capital city, Chihuahua, has a large mixed population: English

is as much spoken as Spanish, and many American enterprises and

manufactories give it an air of progress. It is distinctly a mining

State. Numerous and important exploitations of silver ore has been

made for many years. The mines of Chihuahua have been celebrated for

centuries. The most important are Batopilas, Santa Eulalia, Parral,

Cerro Colorado and Minas Nuevas. Santa Eulalia is the famous mining

camp to which Chihuahua owes its origin and prosperity. It is still one

of the great silver-lead producers of the world. Batopilas became noted

for its ruby silver at an early period, and is best known for both

quality and quantity.

Batopilas has only about four thousand inhabitants and is located on

the river of the same name, a mountain stream low and quiet during nine

months in the year, but during the rainy season rising to a mighty

torrent. Owing to the steady work in the mines this town is more

advanced than others in the vicinity. The Batopilas mines are among the

richest in the world, although in this State there are others which

rank almost equally well.

[Illustration: STREET SCENE IN CHIHUAHUA.]

In cattle-raising the State of Chihuahua is one of the most important.

The temperate climate and the fertile fields serve to nourish thousands

of head, which are shipped to points in the Republic and to the United

States. The price of pasture lands is low, owing to much undeveloped

land. The stock is thoroughly healthy and the government maintains a

strict quarantine on all imported animals.

The ride over the Mexican Central route down through Chihuahua

furnishes an ever-changing series of infinitely interesting views. The

distant heights are rich in mineral dyes and exquisite in outline.

Through some break in the hills one catches a glimpse of an exquisite

valley with slanting sunlight streaming across it. Silent faraway

cities, forests of cacti and yucca plants, and a host of brilliant

flowers are always fleeting backward until the approach to Chihuahua

brings one to the first distinctly Mexican city. Purpled mountains are

in the distance below, two large steeples of the cathedral dominate the

landscape, and low flat roofed houses lie along the reddish horizon

with a truly oriental effect.

[Illustration: MONUMENT TO JUAREZ, CHIHUAHUA.]

Inside the city streets, long colonnades with arches outside the houses

offer shelter from the mid-day sun, and the outer walls are frescoed

in pastel colors. Broad stone seats with high backs line the principal

streets while clumps of Mexican aloes and prickly cacti hedge the

roadway.

The Cathedral faces the beautiful Plaza de la Constitucion. It was

completed in 1789, being under construction about fifty years. There is

a barbaric richness of ornamentation about the façade of this beautiful

edifice, carved in solid stone by native artists. Within its sacred

portals and under the flickering lights of the altars many troubled

souls find solace.

Chihuahua was founded in 1698, but the town proper was not built

until 1718, and it was elevated to the dignity of a city in 1824. Its

principal public buildings are monuments of art and industry. The

governor’s palace is a gray stone building covering a square, with wide

balconies and a large courtyard. It is not only a handsome building

but it is furnished with an elegance and a refinement of taste that is

so indicative of the Mexican people. Most Mexican towns are built in

the Mexican style with plazas and garden spots and one-storied houses,

but in this city there are evidences of the foreigner and it has the

appearance of some of the Texan cities. In the Plaza de Hidalgo is a

monument commemorating the execution on the spot of the first heroes of

Mexican independence.

As the scene of several historical events Chihuahua has many monuments

to the nation’s heroes. The city is very much Americanized: banking

houses and investment companies are well organized institutions.

[Illustration: STATUE OF HIDALGO, CHIHUAHUA.]

There are hospitals, houses of correction, military schools and the

State Normal School, which has a very high standard of education. A

technical or industrial school for young ladies has been of great

benefit to young women who are called upon to support themselves by

their own efforts, and it is one of the prides of the city.

Public education receives much attention and is conducted in a most

progressive manner. Among the most important schools are the Scientific

and Literary Institute, which consists of preparatory, special and

professional courses. There are also departments of commercial,

industrial, mechanical, mining and farming and these embrace a very

practical course of learning.

[Illustration: INTERIOR OF THE PALACE, CHIHUAHUA.]

In Ciudad Juarez, a school of agriculture has been installed under the

supervision of the Government.

Industry is taking a firm hold in the State. All enterprises have the

full encouragement and protection of the government. There are several

smelters, a brewery, ice and gaseous water factory, canneries, and iron

and steel foundries. Arts and crafts establishments abound in all the

smaller cities.

Chihuahua has the honor of being represented in the Cabinet by Señor

Don Enrique C. Creel, who was formerly the Mexican ambassador to

Washington, and the governor of the State. His administration was noted

for the manner in which he endeavored to elevate the Indians, and

create in them an ambition to become good and useful citizens, to own

land and cultivate it. He was called to Mexico to fill the place of the

late Señor Mariscal.

Shortly after leaving Chihuahua one approaches the smelting works of

the celebrated Santa Eulalia mine, which was discovered in 1703, and

not far away is a great hacienda comprising more than sixty thousand

acres of fine land. On that estate is an adobe palace two hundred feet

long and one hundred and twenty-five feet wide. The gates and pillars

are of cut stone, finely carved by natives. It has beautiful towers

at the angles and a patio within that is as large as the plaza of

some towns and much more attractive. This hacienda has a yearly crop

of seventy-five thousand bushels of wheat and of twenty-five thousand

bushels of corn.

Agriculture was once the great resource of the State, but has given

place to mining. Farming is carried on in a primitive way. The land is

rich and all kind of fruits grow in abundance. Alfalfa produces several

crops a year. Fine timber is found on the mountain slopes.

Escalon is the junction point with the Mexican Northern Railway running

to the great mining districts of Sierra Mojada, seventy-eight miles

east of one of the largest carbonate camps in the world.

Paso del Norte, now known as Ciudad Juarez in this State, is the

connecting link between El Paso, Texas, and the republic. It gets its

name from Benito Juarez, the first president of Mexico and during the

occupation of Mexico City by Maximilian it was the seat of government.

[Illustration: RESIDENCE OF SEÑOR DON ENRIQUE C. CREEL,

CHIHUAHUA.]

The people of this city have stood foremost and served as an example

for their patriotism and loyalty and it was to them that Benito Juarez

owed his great assistance of food and money in 1865, when the Liberal

cause was passing through dark and uncertain times.

[Illustration: THEATRE OF THE HEROES, CHIHUAHUA.]

One of the most interesting spots in the State of Chihuahua is Casas

Grandes, a town of a few thousand inhabitants on the San Miguel

River. This place is noted for its ruined houses, which are probably

the relics of some Indian metropolis. The main features seem to have

been three large structures connected by ranges of corridors or low

apartments and enclosing several courtyards of various dimensions. The

extent from north to south is eight hundred feet, and from east to

west two hundred and fifty feet. A range of narrow rooms, lighted by

circular openings near the top, and having enclosures three or four

feet high in one corner, supposed to be granaries, extends along one

of the main walls. Many of the apartments are very large, and some of

the enclosures are too vast ever to have been covered by a roof. About

two hundred feet west of the main building are three mounds of loose

stone, which may have been burial places, and two hundred feet west of

these are the remains of a building one story high and one hundred and

fifty feet square, consisting of a number of apartments ranged around

a square court. For twenty leagues along the Casas Grandes and Llanos

rivers are found artificial mounds from which have been dug up stone

axes, corn grinders and various articles of pottery, such as pipes,

jars, pitchers, etc., of a texture far superior to that made by the

Mexicans of the present day, and generally ornamented with angular

figures of blue, red, brown, and black, on a red or white ground. The

best specimens command a high price in Chihuahua and neighboring towns.

On the summit of a mountain about ten miles from Casas Grandes are the

remains of an ancient stone fortress which may have been intended as a

lookout.

Santa Rosalia is famous for its hot springs, which for curative

properties are claimed by those who have used these waters, to excel

any known springs in America. They are especially noted for their

wonderful properties in cases of inflammatory rheumatism and all blood

and skin diseases.

Jimenez is a city of about nine thousand inhabitants and is the railway

shipping point for the rich silver mines of the Parral and Guanacevi

districts. Archæologists find this town interesting on account of the

enormous meteorites found here. The greatest ones picked up are now in

the National School of Mines in Mexico City.

[Illustration: PART OF THE ARCHWAY OF THE OLD AQUEDUCT,

CHIHUAHUA.]

[Illustration: FALLS OF JUANACATLAN, JALISCO.]

[Illustration: STREET SCENE, GUADALAJARA.]

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