(TRUNK ROUTE)
ATHERSTONE TO SHREWSBURY, 59 MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Atherstone= to Fazeley 7
=Fazeley= to Tamworth 1½
=Tamworth= to Lichfield 7
=Lichfield= to Muckley Corner 2¾
=Muckley Corner= to Four Crosses Inn 8¾
=Four Crosses Inn= to Gailey Station 2¾
=Gailey Station= to Shifnal 11¾
=Shifnal= to Oakengates 4¾
=Oakengates= to Shrewsbury 12¾
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
=Atherstone to Lichfield.=--Undulating road with fine surface.
=Lichfield to Shifnal.=--Almost level; surface fairly good, but the
direct road (Watling Street) is rough and has some steep hills near
Oakengates. The =Shifnal Loop= is, therefore, recommended. (See Route
Map 3.)
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Tamworth.=--An ancient town; historic castle; Perpendicular church.
=Lichfield.=--Cathedral; statue of, and associations with, Samuel
Johnson.
=Shifnal.=--Pretty town, with quaint timbered houses; church Norman,
Early English, and Decorated.
=Wroxeter.=--The Roman _Uriconium_; Roman remains.
[Map: (TRUNK) No. 3. ATHERSTONE TO SHREWSBURY.]
At ~Atherstone~ the railway is passed by a bridge, superseding a former
level-crossing. Immediately to the left a road leads to the site of
the almost demolished ~Merevale Abbey~, the chapel of which is still
used as a parish church, and contains recumbent effigies of the
Ferrers family. The road to Fazeley is undulating and uninteresting.
To the south of the town lies ~Drayton Manor~, the seat of the great Sir
Robert Peel. Here one is forcibly reminded by ocular evidence that
this is a mining district. A turning to the right leads to
TAMWORTH,
one of the most ancient towns in Warwickshire and Staffordshire, for
it stands in both counties. It was a royal residence in the time of
the Heptarchy, and from that remote period to the present time the
castle has been of more or less importance--in fact, it is one of the
most ancient buildings in Central England. The mound upon which it
stands is of British origin; Queen Ethelfleda (died 918) erected the
castle which, with many alterations and additions, meets the view at
the present day. It has recently been acquired by the Corporation, and
is open to visitors. The ancient causeway leading to the entrance
presents the finest example of Saxon 'herring-bone' masonry to be
found in the kingdom. The circular keep is of picturesque red
sandstone, which does much to mitigate the effect of the Perpendicular
windows. The venerable building was the home of the Marmions, the
Frevilles, and the Ferrers, and in 'Marmion' we find:
'They hailed him lord of Fontenaye,
Of Lutterward and Scrivelbaye,
Of Tamworth Tower and Town.'
The last of the Marmions died in 1291. The bases of the dungeon walls
are four yards thick, and a visit to the castle interior gives the
impression of massive solidity.
Tamworth Church, founded in the eighth century, was destroyed by the
Danes in 874, and rebuilt by King Edgar. In 1345 it was burnt, but
rebuilt. The crypt and two Norman transept arches remain of the early
building. The late Perpendicular tower contains a curious double
staircase, and is a prominent feature for many miles round.
LICHFIELD
The road to Lichfield lies by the side of the River Tame for some
distance, but it passes through a colliery district; some finely
wooded knolls, however, occur on either side of the road. About three
miles before reaching the city the barracks are seen upon the right,
with an extensive common for training purposes; at the same time the
three Cathedral spires, 'The Ladies of the Vale,' form an attractive
feature in the landscape. The road leads directly to the ~Cathedral~,
which is one of those exquisitely pretty ecclesiastical edifices which
one wishes to put under a glass case for preservation from the
elements. It has been the seat of a bishopric since the seventh
century, and is connected with St. Chad. A Norman church succeeded the
Saxon edifice, but has entirely disappeared. The earliest part of
the present building, the west choir, dates from _c._ 1200; the south
and north transepts followed, and the nave and west front date from
about 1275. The eastern parts were finished in 1325. The central spire
was destroyed during the Civil War, and rebuilt by Sir Christopher
Wren.
_The Cathedral is open to the public from 9.30 to 5 on weekdays._
[Illustration: LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL.
It is one of the smaller cathedrals, but its workmanship is of
an exquisite richness.]
Upon entering the west front, which is one of the most beautiful in
England in the Decorated style, the Early English nave with dog-tooth
mouldings, the clustered pillars, and the fine vaulting, impress one
by their beauty and gracefulness. In the north transept one finds five
lancet windows, with Perpendicular examples on either side. In the
south transept the vaulted roof, with its huge bosses, and the large
Perpendicular window are special features, and here the rich stained
glass and the warm appearance of the red sandstone produce an effect
upon which the eye delights to dwell. The choir, with its side aisles,
richly vaulted roof, and huge windows springing from the triforium, at
once attract the visitor's attention. The early Decorated blank
arcading of the aisles is interesting, as is also the peep afforded
into a building upon the south side. In the south aisle of the
retro-choir a celebrated monument, the 'Sleeping Children,' touches a
chord that vibrates in the nature of all who possess the tenderness of
human sympathy. The Lady Chapel has rich Decorated arcading upon its
walls, from above which spring nine windows with trefoil tracery. In
seven of these is the stained glass that once adorned the great
Cistercian nunnery of Herckenrode, in the Bishopric of Liège. It dates
from 1530, and was brought to England after the suppression of the
nunnery in 1802. Although one of the smallest of English cathedrals,
Lichfield is singularly impressive by reason of beautiful details and
graceful proportions. Although actually situated in a valley, its site
is the highest in England, with the exception of St. Albans.
In the Market Square stands the statue of Samuel Johnson, opposite
the house in which the great lexicographer first saw the light.
* * * * *
In order to rejoin the Watling Street, the road marked 'To Cannock'
should be taken, and about one and a half miles from the city a
turning to the right leads to that place. Continue, however, in the
same straight line for another one and a half miles, and the Watling
Street will be struck, leading off to the right at Muckley Corner. The
Roman station of _Eteocetum_ lies about one mile to the south-east at
Wall, where the Rycknield Street starts for the North. This is missed
by the detour to Tamworth and Lichfield.
Near Brownhills Common a large piece of water--Cannock Chase
reservoir--lies to the right, and farther on another reservoir is
passed. Two miles beyond Gailey railway-bridge is the site of the
Roman station of _Pennocrucium_, near a roadside inn, and immediately
afterwards the Shropshire Union Canal crosses the road by an aqueduct.
Boscobel House and Park lie about a mile towards the south, with the
famous oak in which Charles hid himself after Worcester. A straight
run of seven miles passes by Weston Park, renowned for its beauty, and
brings one to a turning on the left, the main road to Shifnal. It is
advisable to pass through Shifnal and regain the Watling Street
farther on, and thus avoid the extremely bad road between Redhill and
Oakengates.
~Shifnal~ is an interesting little town, possessing many quaint old
timbered houses, with overhanging upper stories, often enriched by
carving. A turning to the right in the middle of the town leads to the
~Church~. It possesses many curious remains of Norman architecture,
among which are the chancel arch and a portion of the south transept.
The main structure is Early English and Decorated, the tower arches
being of the former period. The tomb and effigy of the Prior of
Wombridge, 1526, and some Elizabethan monuments are in the chancel.
Over the south porch is a parvise, which projects in a novel manner
into the church, and is supported there upon two pillars.
From Shifnal to Oakengates, the reputed site of _Uxaconium_, is mainly
downhill, and through a colliery district, with all the usual
concomitants pertaining to it. After a run of about six miles, during
which the Wrekin, 1,335 feet high, lies to the left, a turning at an
inn is reached leading to
WROXETER
This is the ancient _Uriconium_, destroyed by fire in the fifth
century, and the imposing Roman remains form one of the chief
attractions for visitors in the immediate vicinity of Shrewsbury. To
the archæologist it is of supreme interest, as an immense variety of
Roman remains have come to light, including many parts of the massive
walls, the basilica and public baths. There are also exposed to view
well-preserved examples of the hypocausts of villas. Should a detour
be made to the site of this important Roman town, the largest
encountered since leaving _Verulamium_, a good road will be found
leading back to the main route, and thence to Shrewsbury. Continuing
on the main road, one crosses the Severn, and keeps it for some time
upon the right hand. Entering Shrewsbury, the centre of the town is
approached by a steep hill, 1 in 10, where caution must be exercised
on account of the traffic.
(_For town plan of Shrewsbury, see p. 77._)
LOOP No. 1
=FIRST PORTION=: SHREWSBURY, WHITCHURCH, CHESTER--=SECOND PORTION=:
CHESTER, MOLD, ST. ASAPH, RHYL--=THIRD PORTION=: RHYL, DENBIGH,
RUTHIN, CORWEN, LLANGOLLEN, RUABON, WREXHAM, ELLESMERE, SHREWSBURY
SHREWSBURY TO CHESTER, 39½ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Shrewsbury= to Wem Church 10¾
=Wem Church= to Whitchurch 8¾
=Whitchurch= to Broxton 10
=Broxton= to Chester 10
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
On leaving =Shrewsbury=, descent of 1 in 10 in the town; dangerous.
Road to =Chester= usually in good condition; surface splendid; no
steep gradients.
Between =Shrewsbury= and =Wem=, undulating.
From =Whitchurch=, general fall from about 400 feet to sea-level at
=Chester=.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Battlefield of Shrewsbury, 1403.=--About 3 miles from Shrewsbury;
Battlefield Church, Perpendicular.
=Wem.=--Obelisk to Rowland Hill.
=Whitchurch.=--Busy country town; church dating from 1711.
=Rowton Moor.=--Three miles from Chester; battlefield, 1645.
=Chester.=--One of the most picturesque walled towns in England;
Cathedral; town walls; the 'Rows' and other old houses.
[Map: Loop 1. SHREWSBURY TO CHESTER.]
Leaving Shrewsbury by the Battlefield Road, and passing through the
unprepossessing parts of the old town, the church standing upon the
site of the battle becomes a conspicuous object when the higher ground
is reached, about a mile from the town. This remarkable memorial of
the terrible slaughter which took place in 1403 is necessarily of the
Perpendicular period, and at the present time is a simple parish
church, to which flocks a congregation eminently agricultural.
Restorations have taken place at various periods, but sufficient
remains of the original to make it of great interest. The site is that
upon which the fiercest part of the battle occurred, and where, after
the fight, the dead were crowded by hundreds into vast pits; for the
slaughter upon that fatal day was tremendous, numbering probably 8,000
men. The army of Glendower, the Mortimers, and the Percies lost 5,000
men by the most moderate estimate, and that of the victor, Henry of
Bolingbroke, was but little less, chiefly owing to the deadly accuracy
of the Cheshire bowmen of Percy's army, who at first almost
succeeded in winning the fray. But the King's army was double the
number of his opponents, and that always told in a civil war. For
three hours before sunset the struggle waged round the site of the
church, and when at last Percy's army broke and fled, they made for
Wem to the north, or the higher, wooded ground to the east. The road
to Whitchurch passes through Wem, from which Hawkstone Park may be
seen towards the west upon high ground, and the obelisk to Rowland
Hill. The scenery upon the route is eminently characteristic of
English pastoral life, with farmsteads and cottages nestling in
charming seclusion amid a wealth of foliage, or upon the summits of
the small undulations which diversify the Shropshire plain. At
intervals stretches of heath alternate with the cultivation, while
along the whole route the Welsh mountains form a broken sky-line to
the west.
~Whitchurch~ is a busy country town with a market, and forms a centre
for the trade of the district. The remains of the castle which once
existed here were visible down to 1760, but now no traces can be seen.
~The Church.~--The old church of Whitchurch fell in 1711, and the
edifice built upon the site is in heavy Romanesque architecture. There
are monuments in it to the Earls of Shrewsbury, one in armour being
representative of John, the first Earl, who was killed at Bordeaux in
1453, and whose remains were brought from France to be interred here.
Soon after leaving Whitchurch, Overton Scar forms a conspicuous
feature in the landscape, lying to the left near the vale of the Dee.
~Cholmondeley Castle~, three miles to the west of Malpas Station, is the
seat of the Marquis of Cholmondeley, and is situated in the Peckforton
Hills. The younger son of David le Clare settled here in Norman times.
The present castle is a modern building erected in the Norman style,
while the old hall, of Elizabethan foundation, was, unfortunately,
placed in the hands of Vanbrugh for restoration, and became so
completely altered in appearance that one would hardly guess its
origin. The district lying around these hills was the scene of many
encounters between the Royalists and Parliamentarians. Near Broxton
Station stands ~Carden Hall~, one of the most beautiful examples of
timbered mansions in the country. It was built in the time of
Elizabeth, but the Cardens were here in the reign of Henry VIII. The
Hall was garrisoned by the Royalists, but after being captured by the
other side was plundered, like most of the mansions in this county.
About a mile farther on ~Aldersey Hall~ stands to the left, about ten
furlongs from the road. It is asserted that it has been occupied by
the family of that name since the Norman Conquest.
In ~Handley Church~ a good brass may be seen of the Venables family, and
~Calveley Hall~, once a manor-house and now converted into a farmhouse,
has a good oak staircase and some excellent wainscotting in the rooms.
~Rowton Moor~ is reached next, where the Royalists suffered a defeat in
1645. The road passes through the battlefield.
[Map: TOWN PLAN NO. 4--CHESTER.]
CHESTER
From Shrewsbury the road into Chester leads into Foregate Street, and
presently, after passing through a street of uninteresting suburban
character, the city proper is entered by the east gate in the walls,
the archway of which passes over the road. Upon the left is the
Grosvenor, a comfortable and well-managed hotel, conveniently situated
as a centre for seeing the many features of interest in Chester. The
journey from London along the Watling Street has been upon the track
of the Roman legions, and here at Chester--the ancient Deva--is found
the ultimate object of their journey, for this was the headquarters of
the famous Twentieth Legion, which occupied the town shortly before
the Boadicean Rebellion in A.D. 61, and remained there until the
evacuation of Britain in the early part of the fifth century. The old
town is suggestive of Rome's imperial power, for the ichnography of
the city to-day resembles in a remarkable fashion the great military
castra of the conquerors of the world.
[Map: PLAN OF CHESTER CATHEDRAL.
_Based on that published by the late Dean Howson._]
One of the first objects of interest is the ~Cathedral~, situated about
two minutes from the hotel by passing up Werburgh Street. It is one of
the red cathedrals, and owing to the sandstone of which it is composed
being of a friable nature, the veneering of the edifice with new stone
unfortunately deprives it of that aspect of age so characteristic of
the majority of the great churches of England. The earliest building
standing on the site is said to have been put up in the second
century, but of that no traces exist. The present structure dates from
the twelfth century, and has architecture as recent as the sixteenth.
Upon entering by the west door some Norman work is apparent at the end
of the nave, but its general style is Perpendicular; there is no
triforium, and the fenestration springs directly above the arches,
where an unornamental balustrading breaks the junction. The huge
Perpendicular window at the west end is not of any particular merit.
The large south transept was until recently used as a parish church,
and is remarkably spacious; it is late Decorated, and possesses
beautiful tracery in the window of the west aisle. Passing into the
choir, which is early Decorated, and has been completely restored, one
finds some exquisite work in the canopies of the stalls, which are
undoubtedly the finest in the kingdom. Especially interesting are the
quaint misereres; the Bishop's throne and pulpit are, however, modern.
A characteristic feature of architecture occurs in the triforium,
where four arches are superposed upon each of the bays below them. In
the north aisle wall are preserved some magnificent mosaics,
presented to the cathedral in 1886. The screen across the choir is
Perpendicular, and of singular beauty, but it prevents the eye from
perceiving the full length of the church, making it appear shorter
than is actually the case. The north transept is small, with Norman
work below and Perpendicular above. It will readily be seen that there
are two periods in the Norman work. The large tomb on the floor of
this transept is the resting-place of Bishop Pearson, who died in
1696. He is well known for his work on the Creed. The cloisters are
entered through a Norman doorway at the east end of the north wall of
the nave; the style throughout is Perpendicular, and the work on three
sides of the square is picturesque; the south side, which had
perished, has been rebuilt. An early Norman passage lies along the
west side of the cloister. The chapter-house, which may be entered
from this spot, is exceptionally worthy of a visit. It is of Early
English architecture and a beautiful example of the style; the
vestibule is, perhaps, more chaste than the chapter-house, and the
manner in which the mouldings of the pillars run up unbroken into the
vaulting is a striking feature.
Upon leaving the cathedral by the same door at the west front and
turning to the right, the imposing Town Hall is seen in Northgate
Street, and opposite to it is the abbey gateway, a fine example of
Norman and Early English work, deserving more than a passing glance.
Continuing up Northgate Street, the ~Town Walls~ are reached, and can be
climbed by steps; the masonry here is probably of Roman origin. A few
paces to the right lead to the Phoenix Tower (_entrance 1d._), from
the summit of which Charles I. witnessed the defeat of his troops on
Rowton Moor, September 27, 1645, and not September 24, as stated on
the tablet. Retracing one's steps, the Shropshire Union Canal lies
below, occupying a portion of the ancient moat. The raised platform
upon the right which is now encountered affords a very fine view of
the surrounding country, and beyond is the Half-moon Tower, called
'Pemberton's Parlour.' From here the battlements lead to
Bonwaldesthorne's Tower, now used as a museum, and upon the level
sward below the visitor may perceive a number of Roman remains,
including a hypocaust, or warming apparatus, altars, and other
remains. The projecting isolated defence at this point is known as the
Water Tower. Continuing the walk, the well-known racecourse, called
the 'Roodee,' or 'Isle of the Cross,' is seen upon the right,
enclosed by a loop in the river, and presently the group of buildings,
consisting of the assize courts, gaol, and barracks, appear upon the
left, the whole being classified under the name of 'the Castle.' The
picturesque old bridge is next encountered, and here it is advisable
to leave the walls, as the remainder of the route is devoid of
interest.
Passing up Bridge Street, the third turning upon the right is Pepper
Street, and after traversing this strangely named thoroughfare, the
~Church of St. John the Baptist~ is soon reached, one of the most
interesting buildings in the city. It was originally intended to be
the cathedral for the former diocese, which embraced practically the
whole of Mercia, but the dignity was conferred upon Coventry. The
ruins consist of very picturesque Norman work, with Norman and Early
English flanking arches. By applying to the sexton, who is usually in
the church, the Norman crypt may be visited. The nave of the church
has Norman cylindrical pillars, dating from about 1090; the triforium
arches are Early English of about a century later. A very fine lancet
window is at the west end. The central tower fell in 1574, and crushed
the east end of the church, which has never been rebuilt. The base of
the tower shows rich Norman arches, with clustered columns supporting
them. Traces of frescoes may be seen here. There are many displaced
monuments now resting at the west end; one, a knight, dates from _c._
1240, and a lady from _c._ 1400.
Retracing one's steps through Pepper Street, and passing up Bridge
Street, ~St. Peter's Church~ is reached. It was built on the site of the
Roman Prætorium, and in A.D. 907 the Church of SS. Peter and Paul was
removed here by Ethelfleda from the site of St. Werburgh's. The
edifice is mentioned in Domesday as the Church of St. Peter. The
rectors' names are preserved from 1195. The church is square in plan,
and consists only of four aisles; the architecture is Perpendicular,
and rude Georgian galleries disfigure two of the aisles. The far-famed
~Rows~ of Chester may be visited from this point; they are found in
Eastgate Street and Bridge Street in particular, but Watergate Row
should on no account be missed, because two houses of the south side
are striking specimens of seventeenth-century architecture. One bears
the inscription 'God's Providence is mine inheritance,' which is
supposed to allude to the preservation of the family occupying it from
the plague. On the same side, No. 11, is a remarkable medieval crypt,
now occupied by Quellyn Roberts and Co., wine merchants, who readily
allow visitors to descend into the vaulted chamber.
This list of interesting sights of Chester is by no means exhaustive;
an exploration of the streets in almost any direction will afford
glimpses of old-time quaintnesses nestling in unsuspected byways, and
the eye can dwell with pleasure upon many architectural details and
rich colour schemes.
LOOP No. 1--SECOND PORTION
CHESTER TO MOLD AND RHYL, 35½ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Chester= to Broughton 5
=Broughton= to Mold 7
=Mold= to Caerwys 9½
=Caerwys= to St. Asaph 8
=St. Asaph= to Rhuddlan 3¼
=Rhuddlan= to Rhyl 2¾
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
=Chester to Mold.=--Tramcar-lines to Saltney, flat; then splendid
surface.
=Broughton.=--Ascent 1 in 21; then level to Mold.
=Mold.=--Fairly long hills to Caerwys; then level to Rhyl, except a
descent near Trefnant.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Mold.=--Small county town; church of florid Henry VII. architecture;
Bailey Hill, site of a British fortress; scene of the 'Alleluia
Victory.'
=Cilcain.=--Church with magnificent oak roof.
=Caerwys.=--Pretty scenery; the residence of Llewelyn.
=Bodfari.=--Roman station.
=St. Asaph.=--Small town, with cathedral, smallest in England and
Wales.
=Rhuddlan.=--Edwardian castle, ruins.
=Morfa Rhuddlan.=--Scene of a great battle between Offa of Mercia and
Caradoc.
=Rhyl.=--Watering-place; splendid sands.
[Map: CHESTER TO MOLD AND RHYL. LOOP 1 (SECOND PORTION).
NOTE.--Denbigh is omitted on the way from Mold to Rhyl.]
On leaving Chester the Grosvenor Bridge is crossed, and as far as
Saltney the road is occupied by tram-lines, while on looking backwards
a fine view of the city walls is obtained. After Saltney an excellent
road through the marshes enables one to see the wide estuary of the
river; but at Broughton, where the left-hand road should be taken, a
stiff rise of two miles leads to a plateau with an average elevation
of nearly 500 feet above sea-level, upon which the road remains for
the next twelve miles. The country here is well wooded, and Halkin
Mountain presents a fine appearance in front. The outskirts of a small
colliery district, with its centre at Buckley, are passed near
Padeswood, and presently Mold, the county town of Flint, is reached.
MOLD
The town, which is rather sleepy and depressing, contains a church at
the summit of a steep hill to the right, thoroughly rebuilt in the
florid Tudor period early in the sixteenth century. The nave has some
ornate four-centred arches, and in the chancel some reputed
eighth-century work has been incorporated.
Behind the church is the commencement of the ascent to Bailey Hill, an
eminence partly natural and partly artificial. It was once a British
fortress, and was subsequently occupied by a medieval castle, now
entirely vanished, and pleasure-grounds occupy the site. In the
immediate neighbourhood of Mold there are many objects of considerable
interest to the antiquary and geologist, such as the site of the
'Alleluia Victory,' won by an army of Christian converts under
Germanus, and who, by shouting 'Alleluia!' struck the Picts and Scots,
to whom they were opposed, with panic. In 1833 a gold breastplate of
Celtic workmanship was unearthed near the town, and is now a treasured
object in the British Museum. The ascent of Moel Fammau, 1,823 feet,
the highest peak in the Clwydian range, from which a magnificent
panorama is obtained, is easily accomplished from this town.
Mold was once a flourishing place, with mines and smelting-works in
its vicinity, but they have now become unprofitable, with the
inevitable result of lowering the vitality of the town. The road
leading to St. Asaph passes a few coalpits near Mold, but presently
winds about in a valley between the Clwydian Range and the Halkin
Mountain. The village of ~Cilcain~ lies to the left of the route, at a
distance of two miles, on the lower slopes of Moel Fammau, and is
noted for the magnificent carved oak roof of its church, brought from
Basingwerke Abbey, near Holywell. Nature is now in her pleasantest
mood, and as the road winds with many a sharp turn down the long slope
towards ~Caerwys~, the mountains on both sides become softened and
rounded, and clothed in many parts with trees to their summits. Upon
the hills to the left lie a succession of interesting British camps,
the strongest and most extensive being Moel Arthur, 1,494 feet,
reached just before Nannerch appears by a road which branches off
close to a stone circle. ~Caerwys~ is believed to have been a Roman
station. It was at one time celebrated for its meetings of the bards,
or Eisteddfodau, and also as being the residence of the last native
Welsh Prince, Llewelyn ap Gruffydd. The whole of this district is rich
in memories of the past, and abounds in interest. After passing
Bodfari, where the railway crosses the road, a bridge over the River
Clwyd is reached, and directly afterwards the turn to the right should
be taken. (That to the left leads to Denbigh.)
At this point one says good-bye to the track of the Roman legions,
~Bodfari~ (_Vara_) being the last of the stations to be passed. The
Roman road went straight ahead towards the west, and finished at
_Segontium_, which will be seen when passing through Carnarvon. Thus,
nearly all the way, from St. Albans through Shrewsbury to Chester, the
Watling Street has been followed.
ST. ASAPH
This small village-city of 2,000 inhabitants is of consequence only on
account of its cathedral, conspicuously placed upon high ground, and a
prominent feature for many miles. To reach the time when this ancient
see did not exist, one must travel back before the sixth century. The
first building, of wood, was destroyed by fire in 1282, and the
edifice which succeeded it was nearly razed to the ground during the
wars under Owen Glendower. The present church practically dates from
1482; the choir, however, was not completed until 1770. It was
restored by Sir Gilbert Scott. St. Asaph is the smallest British
cathedral, being 182 feet long and 68 feet across the nave. The
interior presents the aspect of a spacious parish church, and
possesses only a few objects of interest. The east window is
Decorated, and the tracery of the side-windows based upon traces of
Early English work. The effigy of an Abbot in Episcopal robes, and
probably dating from the fifteenth century, lies in the south
transept. The road out of St. Asaph descends a steep hill, requiring
caution, and a run of about three miles along a level road, with a
sharp turning to the right over a bridge, leads to
RHUDDLAN CASTLE
The entrance to the Vale of Clwyd is one of the chief strategic points
in Wales, and the elevated knob upon which the castle stands has, from
the most remote antiquity, been a place of strength. The early Welsh
fortress had additions early in the tenth century; it was taken by the
nephew of the Earl of Chester in 1098, and enlarged about sixty years
afterwards. The Welsh, however, captured it from the English in 1167,
and Llewelyn subsequently held it; but Edward I. gained possession,
and built the whole castle anew in 1277 upon an adjacent site. The
enormous walls, impressively grand in their massive proportions, are
his work. The castle appears to have remained in an efficient
condition to the time of the Civil War, when it was held by the
Royalists; but General Mytton captured it in 1646, and not long
afterwards it was dismantled. As one stands on the site, one
endeavours to visualize some of the many scenes of desperate warfare
which have happened upon and around this bold sandstone bluff, and the
cattle standing knee-deep in the translucent waters of the Clwyd, and
lazily brushing aside the clouds of flies, seem strangely out of
harmony with the memory of the wild hordes that have dashed against
these frowning walls. Within its easily traced fosse, and enclosing a
large area, there was formerly a priory of Dominicans, which has now
disappeared, but relics of it are preserved in Rhuddlan Church. From
the grassy strath within the walls the level plain reaching to Rhyl is
spread out very distinctly, and if the eye is allowed to wander to
Morfa Rhuddlan, which lies like a great alluvial marsh within the
triangle of Rhyl, Abergele, and Rhuddlan, the most desolate stretch in
Cambria, the site of that great battle in 795 is seen, when Offa, the
great king of Mercia, defeated the hordes of Caradoc, the king of
North Wales, with terrific slaughter. There probably exists no more
pathetic wail--the death-sob of a great nation--than that of 'Morfa
Rhuddlan,' which, next to the 'Men of Harlech,' is the most sung of
Welsh airs.
The road to Rhyl is gained by passing through the village and taking
the first road to the left. This takes one directly to the esplanade
opposite the pier, where the Belvoir, a comfortable hotel, stands in a
convenient position.
RHYL
Rhyl is essentially a watering-place, a watering-place pure and
simple, and it does not pretend to be anything else. Its bathing
facilities are magnificent, its sands are excellent for a gallop, and
the _beau idéal_ of parents with families, who fear that their
offspring may meet disaster unless a smooth sweep of sand is
available. It is healthy, bracing, peaceful, an excellent
'brain-emptier'--and that means much to the jaded man. He may be
exasperated by the pier entrance, which can only be termed doubly
debased Scottish architecture, but architecture by the sea is seldom
free from glaring faults. As a jumping-off ground for the Vale of the
Clwyd, and for the sea-gate of Wales at Abergele, it is convenient
both by road and rail.
LOOP No. 1--THIRD PORTION
RHYL TO CORWEN, LLANGOLLEN, WREXHAM, AND SHREWSBURY, 86½ MILES
DISTANCES ALONG THE ROUTE
Miles.
=Rhyl= to Denbigh 15
=Denbigh= to Ruthin 7¾
=Ruthin= to Corwen 12½
=Corwen= to Llangollen 10
=Llangollen= to Wrexham 12¼
=Wrexham= to Ellesmere 16½
=Ellesmere= to Shrewsbury 12½
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
=Rhyl to Trefnant.=--A good road.
=Trefnant.=--Ascent 1 in 14, then good to Denbigh.
=Denbigh to Ruthin.=--Undulating; steep ascent in Ruthin, 1 in 11,
then good road until 2 miles from Corwen, when there is a descent of 1
in 13.
=Corwen to Llangollen.=--Slightly hilly; first-class surface.
=Llangollen to Wrexham.=--Llangollen to Trevor excellent; Trevor to
Ruabon bumpy, then fairly good to Wrexham.
=Wrexham to Ellesmere.=--Steep hill 1 mile from Wrexham, then
exceptionally good to Ellesmere; afterwards undulating to Shrewsbury.
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
=Bodelwyddan Church.=--Two miles from Rhuddlan, _off the road_;
excellent example of modern architecture.
=Cefn Caves.=--Three miles from St. Asaph, or 2½ miles from Trefnant,
off the road.
=Denbigh.=--The castle; ruins of the garrison church.
=Llanrhaiadr.=--Church, with fifteenth century 'Jesse' window.
=Ruthin.=--Castle, with beautiful surroundings; church, Perpendicular,
with splendid roof.
=Corwen.=--Church, with eighth-century cross in churchyard.
=Llangollen.=--Valle Crucis Abbey; Eliseg Pillar; Dinas Bran castle;
Plas Newydd, the Bridge.
=Ruabon.=--Church; Wynnstay Park and Monument.
=Wrexham.=--Church, one of the Seven Wonders of Wales, Perpendicular
architecture.
=Ellesmere.=--Church, with hatchet-work screen; old timbered houses;
picturesque lakes.
[Map: LOOP 1 (THIRD PORTION). DENBIGH TO SHREWSBURY.
For the route from Rhyl to Denbigh see previous map.]
For the first part of this section of the route the road is retraced
through Rhuddlan, and here, if the traveller be interested in a grand
example of modern ecclesiastical architecture, Bodelwyddan Church may
be visited. It lies two miles from Rhuddlan, to the right of the road;
was erected by Lady Willoughby de Broke; cost £60,000; and is called
the 'Marble Church,' from the whiteness of the local limestone of
which it is built. The spire and exterior are extremely pleasing,
while the richness of the interior, with its marbles, wood-carving,
stained glass, and excess of structural adornments, make it well
worth a visit. A good road leads back to the trunk route.
THE CEFN CAVES,
reached by a side-road about two and a half miles from Trefnant. These
lie in the grounds of Cefn Hall, and are _open on Tuesday and Friday
afternoons_. They are deep cavities in the limestone rock, at one time
inhabited by primeval man, whose bones and many interesting relics of
his existence have been found by careful excavation of the floors. A
very fine view of the Vale of the Clwyd, which has been rather
overpraised, is obtained at this spot.
[Illustration: SHREWSBURY HOUSE, CHESTER.
One of the many picturesque frontages for which the town is famous.]
[Map: DENBIGH TO SHREWSBURY.]
DENBIGH
In Denbigh a long, broad street leads up to the centre of the town,
and here the chief attraction, the castle, may be visited. Passing up
through a Norman gateway, which once formed part of the boundary of
the ancient town, and was called Burgess's Tower, the ruins of the
long-abandoned parish church, or garrison church of St. Hilary, are
seen on the spacious castle green. The old parish church of the town
is at ~Whitchurch~, on the road to Ruthin. The stately ruins of the
great Norman fortress, which kept watch and ward over this portion of
the Vale of the Clwyd for so many centuries, crowns the summit of this
conical hill, and is perched nearly 500 feet above sea-level. Long
before the Norman invasion this vantage-point had been seized upon for
a stronghold, but the great epoch for Denbigh happened when Edward I.
sat down in Rhuddlan and gathered into his conquering hands the fair
lands of Wales, consolidating his power by building a castle in each.
Denbigh and Ruthin, ruled by the Laceys and the Greys respectively,
formed the nuclei of two counties. Here Henry Percy, in the wars with
Glendower, tried to stem the tide of insurrection; and later, in
the Wars of the Roses, it was a centre of that desolation and
destruction which overwhelmed the valley under Jasper Tudor and the
Earl of Pembroke, and reduced it to a land of smouldering embers. But
one of the most stirring episodes in the history of the castle was the
grand defence made by Colonel William Salusbury, the stout old
Royalist, who, in the summer of 1646, valiantly held the walls against
the Parliamentarians. From April until November it was assaulted in
vain, for Salusbury had sworn that he would not surrender it except at
the bidding of his King. This was eventually obtained, and the
garrison marched out with, if possible, more than the honours of war.
Soon afterwards the castle was completely dismantled, and now chiefly
serves as a place of assembly for the townspeople, a recreation-ground,
and a coign of vantage, under favourable circumstances, for a splendid
view over the Vale.
The road to Ruthin leads out of the busy market-place, and a mile
beyond the town one reaches the fine old church of ~Whitchurch~, now
only used for burial services. It belongs to the Perpendicular period,
and in it parts of the rood-screen may be seen, converted into a
reredos, and a screen at the west end of the north aisle. An
interesting brass to Richard Myddelton, who died 1575, is preserved
here; he was the Governor of Denbigh Castle, and is represented with
his wife and a small family of sixteen. The Myddeltons, like the
Salusburys, have left indelible traces upon this part of Wales, and of
the sons represented on the brass, one became a Lord Mayor of London,
and another, the sixth, is perhaps the best known to Englishmen, as he
was the celebrated Sir Hugh Myddelton who brought the New River to the
metropolis. The ancestral home of this family, Chirk Castle, will be
visited _en route_.
After another one and a half miles, ~Llanrhaiadr Church~ is seen, whose
interior is interesting on account of the 'Jesse' window, of fine
fifteenth-century glass, purchased with the offerings of pilgrims to
the holy well in the wooded glen above the church. It is in a
remarkably good state of preservation, with the colours rich and
brilliant. Outside the east window are the graves of five soldiers who
fell in the famous siege of Denbigh; under one lies Captain Wynne, of
the great house of Gwydir, near Llanrwst. He died from wounds in the
castle, and by mutual arrangement the cortège was permitted to pass
through the lines of the beleaguers, the Parliamentarians firing the
last salute over the grave of the hero.
Between Llanrhaiadr and Ruthin the highest points of the Clwydian
Range come prominently into view, the huge ruin on Moel Fammau, to
which reference has been made in connection with Mold, being plainly
visible.
RUTHIN (_RED CASTLE_)
The road leads into the central square of the town, from the south
side of which issues Castle Street. The modern Ruthin Castle is
occupied by Colonel W. Cornwallis West, Lord-Lieutenant of
Denbighshire, and the ruins stand in the Park. (_Permission to enter
may be obtained at the lodge._) The remains consist of a dungeon, a
'Beheading Tower,' an armoury, and some curious passages. A
whipping-post is also preserved. The ruins, deep red in hue, and
mantled by the rich green of the clinging foliage, with a setting
beyond of the upper part of the Vale of the Clwyd, form a picture rich
in colour. Reginald de Grey owned the castle shortly after its
erection in 1280, and it remained in the possession of his family
until about 1480. Owen Glendower attempted its capture in 1400, but
the Parliamentarians were more successful, for it fell in 1646, after
a siege of three months, from which time it has been a ruin. Sir
Thomas Myddelton of Chirk became owner, and the present possessor has
inherited it from him in the female line. The castle was partially
rebuilt in 1826, and brought to its present condition in 1852.
The Church of St. Peter is an imposing edifice, chiefly Perpendicular,
and contains a finely decorated roof of Henry VII.'s period,
beautifully carved in black oak and divided into 500 small panels. The
old building adjacent and the church are the remains of a Priory of
White Friars, and form a very picturesque addition; near them are the
former buildings of the Grammar School, founded in 1574. The
foundation is now accommodated in better surroundings.
The natural environs of Ruthin are of great beauty, and this part of
the Clwyd Valley is a favourite place of residence. Upon Moel Feulli
are the remains of a fortified British camp, enlarged by the Romans,
and from it and Moel Fammau magnificent views may be obtained.
Leaving Ruthin, the upper part of the Vale of the Clwyd is traversed,
and the watershed between the latter river and the Dee crossed at a
height of 600 feet. After passing through the narrow Vale of
Nantclwyd, with its towering limestone rocks, the small church of
~Derwen~, lying off the road to the right of Derwen Station, is seen. It
contains a handsome fifteenth-century screen and rood-loft, with a
time-honoured thirteenth-century cross in the churchyard.
CORWEN
is a centre for the railway system of Wales, but possesses no special
attractions, unless the mark of Owen Glendower's dagger upon the
lintel of the south door of the church, inflicted, so it is said, when
in a pet, be deemed one, though probably the tradition had its origin
in the dagger carved on the shaft of an eighth-century cross in the
same churchyard. The summit of the rock behind the town, whereon
stands a cairn, was the point whence Glendower reviewed his troops
previous to the Battle of Shrewsbury. The short climb is rewarded by a
pleasing view.
LLANGOLLEN
is reached by a part of the Telford-Holyhead road, which is generally
in magnificent condition. Pretty views of the Dee, the Berwyn
Mountains on the right, the Llantysilio Mountains on the left, and the
Eglwyseg rocks in front, are obtained, and the most beautiful part of
the hill country of Wales, as contrasted with the mountain scenery, is
presented to the eye. The loveliest views are those lying round the
town, rivalling in beauty, and perhaps surpassing, any found elsewhere
in Britain. ~The Bridge~ is one of the "Wonders of Wales," dating from
1345, and ~Plas Newydd~, lying about half a mile from the bridge, the
residence of the famed ladies of Llangollen, should on no account be
missed. The romance of their lives is too lengthy for inclusion here,
but may be readily learnt on the spot. The house is an aggregation of
carved oak within and without. No one should visit Llangollen without
ascending ~Castell Dinas Brân~, which towers to a height of 1,000 feet
above the village. The origin of the quaint ruins upon the summit is
lost in antiquity, but is attributed to one of the early Princes of
Powis. The tide of war has raged scores of times round the hoary
fragments upon the crest, which look like the eyrie of a robber baron
or the fantastic imaginings of a Doré. When the castle emerges into
the light of history we find that Griffith, the son of Madoc, occupied
it in the thirteenth century, and that about a hundred years
afterwards it fell into ruin.
[Map: VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY: GROUND PLAN.]
VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY
(_admission 6d._) lies two miles by road from Llangollen. Founded by
the above-named Griffith in A.D. 1200, it is necessarily in the Early
English style, and dog-tooth ornamentation may be discovered in the
west end. The beautiful ruin appeals to artist and antiquary alike,
and is considered the most picturesque in Wales. A little way off to
the north is ~Eliseg's Pillar~, a most astonishing early monument put up
by Concenn ap Cadell ap Brochmail to the memory of his great-grandfather,
Eliseg, who lived as far back as the beginning of the seventh century.
It is no longer possible to read the Latin inscription giving these
facts, and the remarkable monument itself has suffered much
mutilation. Llangollen is a town in which a week can be spent with
profit and pleasure, so numerous are the places of interest in the
immediate neighbourhood. The fine escarpment of the limestone rocks,
the Eglwyseg, lying above the village, are conspicuous on the left for
some distance on leaving for Ruabon through the Vale of Llangollen,
where the famed Wynnstay Park is situated, the residence of Sir H.
Watkin Williams-Wynn, Bart. The house is not on view, but admission to
the park is freely given by application at the lodge gates, close to
the town. The associations of the park are, however, the chief
point in connection with it, for the Wynns go back into remote
antiquity, and the history of North Wales and the members of this
family are inseparable. The pillar standing above the swiftly rushing
Dee is a cenotaph perpetuating the names of those who fell in the
Irish rebellion of '98, when a Wynn took his company of yeomanry over
the water to help in the suppression.
[Illustration: THE SWALLOW FALLS, BETTWS-Y-COED.
The finest waterfall in Wales.]
WREXHAM
From Ruabon to Wrexham tram-lines run by the side of the road, but
they do not cause much inconvenience, and the road is good. The chief
object for visiting the town is to view the church, which is one of
the finest, if not _the_ finest, in the Principality, and enumerated
among the "Seven Wonders of Wales." It was erected in 1472 to replace
a former structure destroyed by fire. It is a splendid example of
Perpendicular architecture, the tower of six stages and 135 feet in
height being probably unsurpassed, and the rich peal of ten bells it
contains are celebrated far and wide--they were made in 1726. The
church contains monuments to the Myddelton and other families, and in
the churchyard the Elihu Yale tomb is of exceptional interest to
Americans.
ELLESMERE
At Wrexham one turns towards the south to Shrewsbury, and Ellesmere is
the first town calling for comment. There are many old carved timber
houses to be seen, a beautiful contrast to the modern box-of-bricks
erections which now so frequently serve for dwellings. No trace of the
castle now remains; its site is occupied by a bowling-green, whence a
view into nine counties is obtained. The church is chiefly of
Perpendicular architecture, and is worth visiting. The chancel screen
is of hatchet-work, and over the door may be seen the groove in which
the rood formerly stood. The Oteley Chapel has a quaint figure,
_temp._ Edward IV., on the north-west pier, and also an altar-tomb
with recumbent figures. The mere from which the town gained its name
lies close at hand; four other meres are in the vicinity, and these,
with other pleasant concomitants, help to make very pretty and
charming scenery for some distance on the road to Shrewsbury. Shortly
after leaving the town the Ellesmere Canal--one of Telford's great
works--is crossed.