LETTER XXVII.

Before I bring forth the treasures of this hospitable convent, and the

jewels of _Neustra Senora_, it may be necessary to tell you, that they

could not be so liberal, were not others liberal to them; and that they

have permission to ask charity from every church, city, and town, in the

kingdoms of France and Spain, and have always lay-brothers out,

gathering money and other donations. They who feed all who come, must,

of course, be fed themselves; nor has any religious house in Europe

(_Loretto_ excepted) been more highly honoured by Emperors, Kings,

Popes, and Prelates, than this: nay, they have seemed to vie with each

other, in bestowing rich and costly garments, jewels of immense value,

and gold and silver of exquisite workmanship, to adorn the person of

_Neustra Senora_; as the following list, though not a quarter of her

_paraphernalia_, will evince: but before I particularize them, it may be

proper to mention, the solemn manner in which the Virgin was moved from

the old to the new church, by the hands of King Philip the Third, who

repaired thither for that purpose privately as possible, to prevent the

prodigious concourse of people who would have attended him had it been

generally known. He staid at the convent four days, in which time he

visited all the hermitages above, in one; but returned, greatly

fatigued, and not till ten o'clock at night. After resting himself the

next day, he heard mass, and being confessed, assisted at the solemnity

of translating the Virgin, in the following manner:--After all the

monks, hermits, and lay-brothers had heard mass, and been confessed, the

Virgin was brought down and placed upon the altar in the old church, and

with great ceremony, reverence, and awe, they cloathed her in a rich

gold mantle, the gift of the Duke of _Branzvick_, the sleeves of which

were so costly, that they were valued at eighteen thousand ducats. The

Abbots, Monks, hermits, &c. who were present, wore cloaks of rich gold

brocade, and in the procession sung the hymn _Te Deum Laudamus_; one of

whom bore a gold cross, of exquisite workmanship, which weighed fifty

marks, and which was set with costly jewels. The procession consisted of

forty-three lay-brothers, fifteen hermits, and sixty-two monks, all

bearing wax-tapers; then followed the young scholars, and a band of

music, as well as an infinite number of people who came from all parts

of the kingdom to attend the solemnity; for it was impossible to keep an

act of so extraordinary a nature very private. When the Virgin was

brought into the new church, she was placed on a tabernacle by four of

the most ancient monks; the King held also a large lighted taper, on

which his banner and arms were emblazoned, and being followed by the

nobles and cavaliers of his court, joined in the procession; and having

placed themselves in proper order in the great cloyster of the church,

the monks sung a hymn, addressed to the Virgin, accompanied by a noble

band of music: this being over, the King taking the Virgin in his arms,

placed her on the great altar; and having so done, took his wax taper,

and falling on his knees at her feet, offered up his prayers near a

quarter of an hour: this ceremony being over, the monks advanced to the

altar, and moved the Virgin into a recess in the middle of it, where she

now stands: after which, the Abbot, having given his pontifical

benediction, the King retired to repose himself for a quarter of an

hour, and then set off for _Martorell_, where he slept, and the next day

made his entry into _Barcelona_.

Among an infinite number of costly materials which adorn this beautiful

church, is a most noble organ, which has near twelve hundred pipes. In

the _Custodium_ you are shewn three crowns for the head of the Infant

Jesus, two of which are of pure gold, the third of silver, gilt, and

richly adorned with diamonds; one of the gold crowns is set with two

hundred and thirty emeralds, and nineteen large brilliants; the other

has two hundred and thirty-eight diamonds, an hundred and thirty pearls,

and sixteen rubies; it cost eighteen thousand ducats.

There are four crowns also for the head of the Virgin; two of plated

gold, richly set with diamonds, two of solid gold; one of which has two

thousand five hundred large emeralds in it, and is valued at fifty

thousand ducats; the fourth, and richest, is set with one thousand one

hundred and twenty-four diamonds, five of which number are valued at

five hundred ducats each; eighteen hundred large pearls, of equal size;

thirty-eight large emeralds, twenty-one zaphirs, and five rubies; and at

the top of this crown is a gold ship, adorned with diamonds of eighteen

thousand dollars value. The gold alone of these crowns weighs

twenty-five pounds, and, with the jewels and setting, upwards of fifty.

These crowns have been made at _Montserrat_, from the gold and separate

jewels presented to the convent from time to time by the crowned heads

and princes of Europe. There is also another small crown, given by the

Marquis de _Aytona_, set with sixty-six brilliants.

The Infanta gave four silver candlesticks, which cost two thousand four

hundred ducats.

Ann of Austria, daughter to Philip the third, gave a garment for the

Virgin, which cost a thousand ducats.

There are thirty chalices of gilt plate, and one of solid gold, which

cost five thousand ducats.

Prince Charles of Austria, with his consort Christiana of Brunswick,

visited _Montserrat_ in the year 1706, and having kissed the Virgin's

hand, left at her feet his gold-hilted sword, set with seventy-nine

large brilliants. This sword was given the Emperor by Anne, Queen of

England.

In the church are six silver candlesticks, nine palms high, made to hold

wax flambeaux. There are diamonds and jewels, given by the Countess de

Aranda, Count Alba, Duchess of Medina, and forty other people of high

rank, from the different courts of Europe, to the value of more than an

hundred thousand ducats.--But were I to recite every particular from the

list of donations, which my friend, _Pere Pascal_, gave me, and which

now lies before me, with the names of the donors, they would fill a

volume instead of a letter.

A Year's Journey through France and Part of Spain, Volume 1 (1777) · 第 57 / 65 题