CHAPTER XXIX.

STRAY LEAVES FROM THE ROYAL SCHOOL-ROOM TABLE.

The three temples around which the city of the Nang Harm had taken

root and gradually grown to its present dimensions were especially

remarkable. The one in which I taught, Watt Khoon Chom Manda

Thai,--Temple of the Mothers of the Free,--was formerly dedicated to

the mother of the Buddha, as its ancient name Manda Maia Goudamana

clearly shows; and the other was dedicated to the "Buddha Thapinya,"

Buddha the Omniscient, and the third and most beautiful to the "Buddha

Annando,"[44] Buddha the Infinite,--all names from the Pali. The

general effect of each of these buildings is that of some great church

in the southern part of Europe. The basement story is a square mass

of about two hundred feet on each side, with double rows of windows

flanked by pilasters and crowned with a curious flamboyant spiral

canopy, in what may be called the French-Gothic style. These pilasters

and this canopy are the two most marked and universal features in the

Buddhist architecture; at the middle of each side of the basement rises

a lofty porch or ante-hall, terminating in an immense gabled façade,

pilastered and canopied like the windows. These halls or vestibules

convert the temple into a vast Greek cross. Over the basement rise a

number of diminishing terraces with small pagodas at the angles, the

whole culminating in a pyramidal steeple like the Hindoo shivala; and

lastly the steeple itself is crowned with a chayatree, or tapering

umbrella of gilt iron-work, rising to nearly two hundred feet from the

ground.

The interior consists of two great concentric corridors with large

recesses for the images. Most of the images are standing figures;

the Buddha alone is either seated or reclining, in various attitudes

of benediction, or preaching on elevated lotus-shaped pedestals. The

vaulted cells in which the Buddha is seated reach up to the second and

sometimes to the third terrace, and from a small window in the roof

there streams a flood of sunlight downwards on the head and shoulders

of the colossus, with wonderful effect.

There is great uncertainty about the dates and builders of these

three temples, and I know nothing more interesting and beautiful than

the legend which is attached to the spot on which they stand. In the

Siamese annals, however, it is stated that these temples have stood

here for nearly twelve hundred years, embedded in what was once a

sacred grove of olive, palm, and boh trees, before Bangkok was ever

settled, and in the palmy days of the ancient and beautiful city of

Ayodhya or Ayudia; that they then attracted pilgrims from all parts of

the world, particularly women, who came to perform vows or to offer

votive sacrifices at their shrines.

It was P'hra P'huthi Chow L'huang, a usurper, who, in order to

establish more securely his throne, selected the vicinity of these

triad temples as the seat of government, removed his palace from the

west to the east bank of the Mèinam, founded a city, surrounded it with

triple walls, and called it the abode of the beautiful and invincible

archangel.

As often as I sat in the porches of these temples, the chanted prayers

of the worshippers boomed through the aisles and inspired me with

feelings of the deepest devotion; and whenever I passed along the dim,

silent corridors, and came unexpectedly in front of one of the great

golden images with its folded arms and drooping eyelids, looking down

upon me in monitory sadness, with the wisdom of ages stamped upon its

brow, amid the gloom of a never-ending twilight, while the head and

shoulders were illuminated by a halo of light from the unseen source

above, the effect was strangely mystical, solemn, and profound.

The character of these buildings I do not exaggerate in calling them

sublime; they prove unmistakably that the architect, whoever he was,

"Wrought in a sad sincerity;

Himself from God he could not free;

He builded better than he knew:

The conscious stone to beauty grew."

This impression was deepened every time I visited them, and, though I

knew every inch of the temples and their surroundings, the meanings

of some of the symbols remained mysterious and incomprehensible. If

I succeeded in unravelling one portion, the remainder was lost in

inextricable perplexity and doubt.

My pupils in that wonderful city numbered from twenty to twenty-five

boys and girls, the loveliest and most remarkable of whom were

the heir-apparent, the Prince Somdetch P'hra Paramendr Maha

Chulalonkorn, his younger sister, the little fairy-like creature Fa

Ying,[45] the Princesses Wanee, Ying-You Wahlacks, Somawati, the

Prince Kreta-Bhinniharn, the only son of Hidden-Perfume, P'hra Ong

Dwithwallabh, and Kabkranockratin, the sons of the child-wife; and in

addition to these were several gentlewomen of the harem.

We always began school immediately after the Buddhists' morning

service, which I was obliged to attend, so as to muster my pupils

together in good order, and which was held precisely at nine o'clock

in the temple of the Chom Manda Thai. The long inlaid and richly gilt

table on which we pursued our studies day after day was the same on

which had been laid every morning for hundreds of years offerings to

the priests of Buddha, and whereon stood the bronze censers and the

golden vases from which ascended clouds of fragrant incense amid the

perfume of still more fragrant flowers, while the brilliant colors

of the silks, satins, diamonds, and jewels that adorned the regal

worshippers relieved the gloom.

The studies that took the most absolute possession of the fervid

Eastern imaginations of my pupils were geography and astronomy. But

each had his or her own idea about the form of the earth, and it needed

no small amount of patient repetition to convince them that it was

neither flat nor square, but round.

The only map--and a very ancient one it was--which they had ever seen

was one drawn and painted about a century before, by a Siamese who was

thought to possess great scientific and literary attainments.

[Illustration: QUEEN OF SIAM.]

This map was five feet long by three wide; in the centre was a great

patch of red, and above it a small patch of green. On the part painted

red--which was intended to represent Siam--was pasted a comical-looking

human figure, cut out of silver paper, with a huge pitchfork in one

hand and an orange in the other. There was a crown on the head and

spurs on the heels, and the sun was shining over all. The legs,

which were of miserably thin dimensions, met sympathetically at the

knees. And this cadaverous-looking creature was meant for the king

of Siam,--indicating that so vast were his strength and power they

extended from one end of his dominions to the other. In the little

patch of green, intended to represent Birmah, was a small Indian-ink

figure, consisting of a little dot for the body, another smaller one

for the head, and four scratches of the pen for the legs and arms; this

was meant for the king of Birmah. A legion of little imps, in many

grotesque attitudes, were seen dancing about his dominions; and these

almost unintelligible hieroglyphics were to show to the uninitiated in

what a disturbed state the Birman Empire was, and what an insignificant

personage in his own dominions was the king of that country. On the

north side of the green patch was painted a huge Englishman, sporting

a cocked hat with red feathers, clasping in his arms what was meant

for a vast tract of land. This was marked as British Birmah, and the

Englishman was Lord Clive, holding on to it. The rest of the map was

all blue, and all around the Siamese territories richly painted and

heavily freighted ships were sailing to and fro. But the poor Birmese

monarch had not a boat to display. My simple pupils knew just so much

as this map taught them, and no more. Birmah on the north, and Siam on

the south, and the sea all around,--this was the world to them.

But of their celestial geography they could tell me a host of

interesting particulars, all of which they would relate with the

accuracy and picturesque vividness of a fairy tale; and whenever a

dispute arose as to the height of some of the mountains or the depth or

breadth of the oceans in the celestial worlds, they would at once refer

to a Siamese book, called "Tri Loke Winit Chai,"--a book which settles

all questions about the three worlds, of angels, of demons, and of

gods,--and find therein a satisfactory solution of their difficulties.

In their celestial chronology they were all equally well grounded. A

little fellow of nine years old, when speaking of "time," stood upright

in his chair and informed me that he was "time." His name signified

a period of time appointed for the creation or the destruction of a

world. He then proceeded to tell me with wonderful clearness for one

so young, "that the first time, or Kâp, is reckoned by the Siamese

from the appearance of a certain cloud called god-thirst, which was

the harbinger of a creative rain, and which brought into existence the

worlds and their attendant suns and moons; that the second Kâp, or

time, is the period between the creation of these worlds and the coming

of another great cloud denominated the dissolving cloud, and which is

the third Kâp and the forerunner of the dissolution of the worlds; and

the fourth Kâp is the period when matter remains in a chaotic mass,

waiting for the generative cloud,--god-thirst,--which again pours forth

the creative rain, and life once more springs into being. These four

periods added together make a Maha-Kâp."

When I pressed him to state the number of years contained in a

Maha-Kâp, he became indignant, and replied, "that as the length of

a single Kâp could not be computed by the gods themselves, it was

unreasonable for me to suppose that he could give me any correct

estimate of their actual duration."

I soon found that my pupils were in some respects much wiser than I,

and thenceforth we exchanged thoughts and ideas. I gave them sound

realities in return for their poetic illusions and chimeras, which had

for me a certain charm and a great deal of odd reasonableness, for it

was their way of explaining the incomprehensible.

When a large English map and globes of the celestial and terrestrial

spheres arrived, they created quite a sensation in the ancient temple

of the "Mothers of the Free." His Majesty caused the map to be set in

a massive gold frame, and placed it with the globes on ponderously

gilt supporters in the very middle of the temple, and for nine days

crowds of women came to be instructed in the sciences of geography and

astronomy, so that I found my hands quite full. It was hard for them to

see Siam reduced to a mere speck on the great globe, but there was some

consolation in the fact that England occupied even a smaller space.

After the first excitement had worn off, my pupils began to enjoy their

lessons; they would cluster round the globes, delighted with the novel

idea of a world revolving in space, and some of them were as keen as

any Arctic explorer for the discovery of the North Pole, where they

could some day sit astride, as they thought, with perfect ease and

security, and satisfy their doubts about the form and the revolution of

the earth.

I found them always full of eager inquiry, unlike most Western

children, about the sun and moon and stars; but they preferred to have

them peopled with demons, ghosts, and hobgoblins, rather than to have

them uninhabited.

On one occasion, when I informed them that the moon was supposed to

be uninhabited, all the little eager faces were clouded, and their

interest flagged, and little Wanee declared, "that for her part she was

convinced that the moon was the beautiful daughter of a great king of

Ayudia, who lived many thousands of years ago, and the head wife of the

sun, and not a great stupid ball of earth and rock rolling about in the

sky to no purpose but for the sun to shine upon."

One day the steamer "Chow P'haya" brought his Majesty a box of ice from

Singapore, and I obtained some for an object-lesson. The women and

children found no difficulty in believing that it was water frozen; but

when I went to tell them about snow, the whole school became indignant

at what they considered an evident stretch of my imagination, and my

dear simple friend, Hidden-Perfume, laid her hand gently upon my arm,

and said, "Please do not say that again. I believe you like my own

heart in everything you have taught to me, but this sounds like the

story of a little child who wishes to say something more wonderful than

anything that was ever said before." So my lesson of the snow proved

a stumbling-block to me for several days; my pupils' imaginations had

taken alarm, and they could not be brought to believe the simplest

statements.

I informed his Majesty of my dilemma; he came to my aid, and assured

the royal children that it was just possible that there was such a

thing as snow, for English books of travel spoke frequently of some

phenomenon which they designated as "snow."

On another occasion, as we were all busily engaged in tracing the

river Nile on an ancient map of Egypt, there fell suddenly from the

vaulted roof above our heads, and upon the very centre of our chart on

the table, a coil of something that looked at first like a beautiful

thick silk cord neatly rolled up; in another instant, however, the coil

unrolled itself, and began to move slowly away. I screamed, and fled

to the extreme end of the temple. But what was my surprise to see all

my pupils sitting calmly in their seats, with their hands folded in

veneration and their eyes fixed in glowing admiration on the serpent

as it moved in tortuous curves along the entire length of the table.

With a blush of shame and a sense of inferiority I returned to my

seat and watched with them the beautiful creature; a certain feeling

of fascination dawned upon me as I looked into its clear, bright,

penetrating eyes; the upper part was of a fine violet color, its sides

covered with large scales of crimson edged with black; the abdominal

parts were of a pale rose-color edged likewise with black; while the

tail terminated in tints of a bluish ash of singular delicacy and

beauty. As the snake slowly dragged itself to the end of the table

I held my breath in terror, for it dropped on the arm of the chair

on which the Prince Somdetch Choufa Chulalonkorn was seated, whence

it fell on the floor, trailed itself along through the dim corridor

and down the steps, and finally passed out of sight under the stone

basement of the temple.

On the moment of its disappearance my pupils jumped up from their seats

and clustered around me in the wildest joy, caressing me, and declaring

that the gods loved me dearly, else they would not have sent me such an

auspicious token in favor of my teaching. I was told that the gliding

of the snake all over the table was full of happy omens, and that its

dropping on the arm of the Prince's chair was an unmistakable sign

that he would one day become famous in wisdom and knowledge. All the

old and young women congratulated me, as did even the king himself,

who, when he heard of the singular visitor we had had, caused the

circumstance to be made known to the wise men and women of the court,

and they all united in pronouncing it to be a wonderful and inspiring

recognition of favor from on high. From this time I was treated with

great consideration and respect by the simple-hearted women and mothers

of the harem, but I nevertheless felt not a little uncomfortable for

days after the sudden descent of the snake, and secretly hoped I might

never again be so signally favored by the gods.

I afterwards learned that this snake has three names. In Sanskrit it

is celebrated as the Sarpa Rakta, the red snake, who brings secret

omens from the gods; in Pali, as the Naghalalvana, the crimson snake

of the woods, who carries on his person in glowing letters the name of

his great master; and in Siamese, Gnuthongdang, the crimson-bellied

snake, who brings with its appearance all that is good and great to the

beholder.

I leave it with my readers to decide which is the better, our inherited

dread of and desire to destroy the serpent race, or the Siamese custom

of idealizing, though with a certain superstitious reverence, the

meanest of the works of nature.

Among the ladies of the harem, I knew one woman who more than all the

rest helped to enrich my life and to render fairer and more beautiful

every lovely woman I have since chanced to meet. Her name translated

itself--and no other name could ever have been so appropriate--into

"Hidden Perfume." Her clear, dark eyes were clearer and calmer, her

full lips had a stronger expression of tenderness about them, and her

brow, which was at times smooth and open, and at others contracted

with pain, grew nobler and more beautiful as the purposes of her life,

strengthened by new elements, grew deeper and broader each day.

She had been deprived of her opportunity of loving as a wife and a

woman, and the sorrow that had broken up the fountains of her nature

now caused them to flow into deeper channels, for she had become an

earnest and devoted mother.

Our daily lessons and talks had become a part of her happiest moments.

They gave her entrance into a new world, without requiring that she

should abandon any part of the old world she had known, or that she

should accept any new religious feelings or dogmas. Her aim was to find

out all things that are pure, noble, brave, and good, and to adopt

them, whether Pagan or Christian in their origin, and to leave dogmas,

creeds, and doctrines to those who were inclined to them by temperament.

One day, it being the Siamese Sâbâto (Sabbath), I called at her house

on my way home. In passing into the little room that she had fitted

up to receive me, and which we had dignified with the title of "the

study," I saw that my friend, in the room adjoining, was at prayer,

kneeling before her altar, on which was a gilt image of the Buddha,

while on either side hung pictures of the king and her little son. The

room in which she knelt was a gay one, covered with Birmese paper, on

which were seen huge trees, some standing, and others uprooted and

carried away by the inundation of a mighty tropical river, here and

there drifting along passive and lifeless, and anon covered with gay

flowers. Thousands of miles distant the sun left open his golden gates,

that his waves of light might rest in benediction and with protecting

fondness on her dark, upturned face and colored brow. There was a

mysterious joy in her worship, which transfigured by its soft inner

light her otherwise not beautiful face, and she seemed as if she were

holding direct communion in her inner soul with the Infinite Spirit. I

stepped into the study and waited until her prayer was offered up. In

a little time after I heard her clear voice calling me, and in another

moment I was seated beside her at the foot of her pretty little altar.

She then asked me to look at her paper, which I did, telling her that I

thought it was a very gay one indeed for her little oratory.

"I see you do not understand the meaning of it." And she proceeded to

explain the allegory to me in her quaint and broken English.

"That big green tree there," said she, "is like unto me when I was

young and ignorant, rejoicing in earthly distinctions and affections;

and then I am brought as a gift to a great king, and only think how

grand and how rich I may become; and there you see that I am drooping

and my leaves are all withering and begin to fall; here I am shattered

and uprooted by a sense of sorrow and humiliation, drifting along

an impetuous river, but by and by a little flower stops my downward

course. That little flower is my child; he springs out of the very

waters which threatened my destruction; and now he grows into a garden

of flowers, to hide away from me that which would make me sad and

sorrowful again; and now I am always glad."

After a little while, desirous of knowing what the glittering image of

Buddha really was to her, I said kindly: "Sonn Klean, you were praying

to that idol?"

She did not reply at once, but at length, laying her hand gently upon

my arm, said: "Shall I say of you, dear friend, that you worship the

ideal or image which you have of your God in your own mind, and not the

God? Even so say not of me that I worship the golden image up there,

but the Great One who sent me my teacher Buddha, that he might be the

guide and the light of my life."

On another occasion when she read and translated the Sermon on the

Mount, she suddenly exclaimed with great emotion: "O, your sacred P'hra

Jesus is very beautiful! Let us promise one another that whenever you

pray to P'hra Jesus you will call him Buddha, the Enlightened One; and

I, when I pray to my Buddha, I will call him P'hra Jesu Karuna, the

tender and sacred Jesus, for surely these are only different names for

the one and the same God."

Her favorite book, however, was "Uncle Tom's Cabin," and she would read

it over and over again, though she knew all the characters by heart,

and spoke of them as if she had known them all her life.

On the 3d of January, 1867, she invited me to dinner, and she sent

to me, in the course of the day, so many messages, telling me to be

sure to come, that I began to suspect it was going to be a very grand

entertainment. So I put on my best dress, and made myself as fine as I

could.

My friend was looking down the street, with her head and shoulders out

of her window, as we appeared, and the moment she saw us she rushed

to greet us in her own sweet, cordial manner. Dinner was served in

the study, for it boasted of one table and five chairs; but our party

numbered six in all, so my boy and the Prince Kreta B'hiniharn were

obliged to squeeze themselves into one chair, and then there was one

apiece for the rest of us. We were served by Peguan slave-girls in

the Peguan fashion, on little silver plates, the slave-girls kneeling

around us. Fish, rice, jelly, and a variety of sweetmeats, came first,

then different kinds of vegetables; after them a course of meat,

venison, and birds of all kinds, and we finished with sweet drinks,

preserves, and fruit.

When dinner was over, my friend, in concert with her sisters and

slave-girls, performed on several musical instruments with wonderful

effect. At last all Sonn Klean's slave-women with their children

appeared in a group, one hundred and thirty-two in all, in nice new

dresses, all looking particularly happy.

"I am wishful to be good like Harriet Beecher Stowe,"--or Stowâ, as my

friend persisted in pronouncing that name,--"and never to buy human

bodies again, but only to let go free once more, and so I have now no

more slaves, but hired servants. I have given freedom to all of my

slaves to go or to stay with me as they wish. If they go away to their

homes, I am glad; if they stay with me, I am still more glad; and I

will give them each four ticals every month after this day, with their

food and clothes."

Thenceforth, to express her entire sympathy and affection for the

author of "Uncle Tom's Cabin," she always signed herself Harriet

Beecher Stowe; and her sweet voice trembled with love and music

whenever she spoke of the lovely American lady who had taught her,

"even as Buddha had once taught kings," to respect the rights of her

fellow-creatures.

During a severe illness which confined me a month or more to my room,

I used to receive the most affectionate letters from this dear lady,

signed Harriet Beecher Stowe; and when I once more returned to the

palace, she took all the credit of my recovery from an illness so fatal

as cholera as due to her intercessions and prayers. In one temple she

had vowed that she would save seven thousand lives if mine were granted

to her prayers.

I was perplexed and curious to know how she would perform the

conditions of such a vow, but she assured me there would be no

difficulty about it, and forthwith despatched her servant-women to the

market to purchase seven baskets, containing each a thousand live fish,

which, with great pomp and ceremony, were set free again in the river,

and the seven thousand lives were thus actually saved.

One day, when I was sitting with my friend in her little study, she

learned that I had recently lost a very dear relative, and she related

to me, in a voice full of the tenderest sympathy and affection, the

following Buddhist legend, which I give here as nearly as possible in

her own words.

"In the village of Sârvâthi there lived a young wife named Keesah, who

at the age of fourteen gave birth to a son; and she loved him with

all the love and joy of the possessor of a newly found treasure, for

his face was like a golden cloud, his eyes fair and tender as a blue

lotus, and his smile bright and beaming like the morning light upon the

dewy flowers. But when the boy was able to walk, and could run about

the house, there came a day when he suddenly fell sick and died. And

Keesah, not understanding what had happened to her fair lotus-eyed boy,

clasped him to her bosom, and went about the village from house to

house, praying and weeping, and beseeching the good people to give her

some medicine to cure her baby.

"But the villagers and neighbors, on seeing her, said: 'Is the girl

mad, that she still bears about on her breast the dead body of her

child?'

"At length a holy man, pitying the girl's sorrow, said to himself:

'Alas! this Keesah does not understand the law of death; I will try to

comfort her.' And he answered her, and said: 'My good girl, I cannot

myself give you any medicine to cure your boy, but I know a holy and

wise physician who can.'

"'O,' said the young mother, 'do tell me who it is, that I may go at

once to him!'

"And the holy man replied, 'He is called the Buddha; he alone can cure

thy child.'

"Then Keesah, on hearing this, was comforted, and set out to find the

Buddha, still clasping to her heart the lifeless body of her child. And

when she found him she bowed down before him, and said: 'O my lord and

master, do you know of any medicine that will cure my baby?'

"And the Buddha replied and said: 'Yes, I know of one, but you must get

it for me.'

"And she asked: 'What medicine do you want? Tell me, that I may hasten

in search of it.'

"And the Buddha said: 'I want only a few grains of mustard-seed. Leave

here the boy, and go you and bring them to me.'

"The girl refused to part with her baby, but promised to get the seed

for him.

"As she was about to set out, the pitiful Buddha, recalling her, said:

'My sister, the mustard-seed that I require must be taken from a house

where no child, parent, husband, wife, relative, or slave has ever

died.'

"The young mother replied, 'Very good, my lord'; and went her way,

taking her boy with her, and setting him astride on her hip, with his

lifeless head resting on her bosom.

"Thus she went from house to house, from palace to hut, begging for

some grains of mustard-seed.

"The people said to her: 'Here are the seeds; take them, and go thy

way.'

"But she first asked: 'In this, my friend's house, has there ever died

a child, a husband, a parent, or a slave?'

"And they one and all replied: 'Lady, what is this that thou hast said?

Knowest thou not that the living are few, but that the dead are many?

There is no such house as thou seekest.'

"Then she went to other houses and begged the grains of mustard-seed,

which they gladly gave her, but to her questionings one said, 'I have

lost a son'; another, 'I have lost a parent'; and yet another, 'I have

lost a slave'; and every one and all of them made some such reply.

"At last, not being able to discover a single house free from the

dead, whence she could obtain the mustard-seed, and feeling utterly

faint and weary, she sat herself down upon a stone, with her baby in

her lap, and thinking sadly said to herself: 'Alas! this is a heavy

task I have undertaken. I am not the only one who has lost her baby.

Everywhere children are dying, parents are dying, loved ones are dying,

and everywhere they tell me that the dead are more numerous than the

living. Shall I then think only of my own sorrow?'

"Thinking thus, she suddenly summoned courage to put away her sorrow

for her dead baby, and she carried him to the forest and laid him down

to rest under a tree; and having covered him over with tender leaves,

and taking her last look of his loved face, she betook herself once

more to the Buddha and bowed before him.

"And he said to her: 'Sister, hast thou found the mustard-seed?'

"'I have not, my lord, she replied, 'for the people in the village tell

me there is no house in which some one has not died; for the living are

few, but the dead are many.'

"'And where is your baby?'

"'I have laid him under a tree in the forest, my lord,' said Keesah,

gently.

"Then said the Buddha to her: 'You have found the grains of

mustard-seed; you thought that you alone had lost a son, but now you

have learned that the law of death and of suffering is among all living

creatures, and that here there is no permanence.'

"On hearing this Keesah was comforted, and established in the path of

virtue, and was thenceforth called Keesah Godami, the disciple of the

Buddha."[46]

The pleasantest of the days that I spent in the city of the "Nang

Harm" were those that fell on the first full moons in the months of

May, which days are always held as the anniversary of the birth,

inspiration, and death of the Buddha. On the morning of the 21st of

May, 1864, I was conducted by a number of well-dressed slave-women to

the residence of my pupil, the "child wife." Her house was a brick

building with a low wall running round it, which took in some few acres

of ground devoted to gardens and to residences for her numerous slaves

and attendants. I was the first, that morning, to pass between the two

brick and mortar lions which guarded the entrance, and after a kindly

greeting I took my place at the inner end of the hall or antechamber

which gave access to the residence.

The "child wife," a remarkably pretty little woman, dressed in pure

white silk, stood in the hall beside a small marble fountain, with

her two sons on either side of her. All round the fountain were huge

China vases containing plants, covered with flowers, and between them

were immense silver water-jars, each large enough to hold a couple of

men, and each containing a huge silver ladle. Thirty or more young

slave-women were engaged in filling them with cool fresh water drawn

from a well in the garden.

The hall was freshly furnished with striped floor-matting, and with

cushioned seats for a hundred guests. In the garden opposite the doors

of the hall was a circular thatched roof supported on one great mast,

like a single-poled tent, and this was the theatre erected for the

occasion. In one part was an elevated stage for the marionettes, and

the whole was very gracefully and prettily ornamented, showing, as did

everything around, a desire to please and to entertain. Some fifty

women-porters came from an inner court, hearing on their heads massive

silver dishes of sweetmeats and choice viands, and placed them along

the hall; then came some maidens dressed in pure white, and arranged

flowers in small gold vases beside each of the seats designed for the

expected guests; and when this was done they took their places behind

their mistress.

It was early morning, just seven o'clock. But this entire woman's

city had been up for hours engaged in the important work of rightly

celebrating the great day. The grounds around the house were all in

a glow with roses, and the pure silver of the water-jars glistened

resplendently in the morning sunlight.

The gate was thrown wide open, and into this fairy-like scene, amid

flowers and sunshine and fragrance, and the dew still trembling on the

leaves, were ushered in the guests, one by one,--a hundred decrepit,

filthy, unsightly looking beggar-women covered with dirt and rags and

the vilest uncleanliness.

And the "child wife," who might have numbered twenty-five summers, but

who looked as if she were only sixteen, blushing with a delicacy and

beauty of her own, advances and greets her strange guests with all

the more respect and tenderness because of their rags and poverty,

leads them gently and seats them on low stools around her sparkling

fountain, removes their disgusting apparel, and proceeds with the aid

of her maidens to wash them clean with fragrant soap and great draughts

of cool water ladled out of the silver jars. What a transformation,

when the matted hair was washed and combed and parted and dressed with

flowers, and the rags were replaced by new robes of purest white! Then

she led them towards the hall, and seated them on the silk cushions

before the silver trays, and bowed on her knees before them and served

to them the delicacies prepared for them, as if they each one and all

deserved from her some special token of her love and veneration. After

breakfast the music struck up and the actors and puppets appeared on

the stage. The music was particularly good. The royal female bands were

assembled for the occasion, and relieved each other in succession; the

acting was occasionally interspersed with the plaintive notes of female

voices; the priestesses of this beautiful scene, who seemed sometimes

deeply moved, collected from within themselves all the charms and joys

of love to pour them forth with the inspiration of music at the feet of

their lowly listeners.[47]

And at length, as the curtain of the last act dropped, and the

prolonged cadence of the voices and the instruments died away, a loud

buzz of delight and pleasure broke from the listening crowd of old,

decrepit women, who received each a sum of money from their kind

hostess, and went on their lonely way rejoicing.

"This," said my friend to me, "I do every year, to show my love and

obedience to my dear teacher, the Buddha." And to my unaccustomed heart

and eyes it seemed the sight in all the world the most worth gazing

upon.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 44: I would here remark that all intelligent Buddhists make a

very marked distinction between the Buddha and the Buddh. Buddh, or as

he is sometimes called, Adi Buddha, is the Supreme Intelligence, from

whom Buddha is only an emanation, has existed from all eternity.]

[Footnote 45: See "English Governess at the Siamese Court," Chap. XIII.

p. 116.]

[Footnote 46: Professor F. Max Müller mentions this parable, in his

lecture on "Buddhist Nihilism," as translated from the Birmese by

Captain H.T. Rogers; but the Birmese text is slightly different from

that of the Siamese.]

[Footnote 47: The Siamese are naturally very fond of music, and even

persons of high rank think it no disparagement to acquire a proficiency

in the art. Whence their great skill in music and in architecture it

would be difficult to explain, more especially as their music exhibits

great poetical genius and has a remarkably pleasing measure. It might

naturally be supposed that they had derived their music from the

same source that they have their religion; the softness, the playful

sweetness and simplicity of the former, seeming to harmonize in great

measure with the humane tenets, the pure morality, and the beauty of

the latter.

The music of the Siamese Peguans and of Laos differs from that of

most Indian nations in being played upon different keys, a feature

which characterizes the pathetic music of certain European, and in

particular the Scottish and Welsh nations. There is certainly no harsh

or disagreeable sound, no abrupt transition, no grating sharpness; all

is soft, lively, sweet, and harmonious to a degree which seemed to me

quite surprising. They have certainly arrived far beyond the point of

being merely pleased with sound. They have far a higher aim, that of

interesting the feelings, of awakening thought or emotion.

Their pieces of music are very numerous; some of the women who perform

before the king know by heart a hundred and fifty tunes; their memory

and their performance are equally remarkable and surprising.]

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