supremacy in North American waters, and it was inevitable that
Louisbourg would again be attacked; and so in another ten years a
British fleet assembled in Gabarus Bay to the south of Louisbourg, and
another great struggle ensued. Boscawen, Amherst and Wolfe took part in
this assault; and the place was again ably defended by the French, this
time under the gallant de Drucour, who was able to direct the fire of
over two hundred cannon against the invaders—so much had the defenses
been strengthened. The formerly successful plans of the Colonials were
again followed, and, as before, success came to the invaders, and
Louisbourg fell with immense stores and munitions of war. A strong naval
station being in existence by this time in Halifax, it was decided to
totally destroy the fortifications of Louisbourg, and accordingly the
whole of the defenses were demolished by an engineer corps from England,
sent out for this purpose. Shortly before the opening of the American
War of Revolution, Britain’s conquest of all Upper Canada was confirmed
by treaty, and peaceful development of Cape Breton has since ensued.
Louisbourg, thus interesting historically, is conveniently reached from
Sydney by rail. It has a pleasant harbor, free from winter ice, and is a
fairly busy little shipping port. The site of the old fortress is at
Point Rochefort a few miles distant from the railway station; but from
first leaving the train, evidences of Louisbourg’s former greatness may
be seen, and relics are in main of the houses in the village. Cannon
balls are still found in the surrounding fields, and many of the houses
contain stone from the demolished walls of the fortress. The situations
of the bastions may still be traced, and some of the casemates used for
sheltering the women and children from gun fire during the attacks are
now used as shelters by flocks of sheep. That women can rise to any
height when emergency demands, is shown by the incident remembered of
Madame de Drucour, wife of the French Governor in the second siege, who
with her own hands fed the cannon with powder and balls.
[Illustration: Ruins of Fort Louisbourg]
[Illustration]
No systematic exploration of the ruins has yet been attempted. The
graveyard, too, where French, English and Colonial dead lie in hundreds,
rests unmarked by stone of any kind. There is a general monument,
however, erected on the very spot where the keys of the fortress were
handed to General Pepperell when the fortress fell before Colonial arms.
It was erected by the Society of Colonial Wars, and bears the simple
inscription, ‘To Our Heroic Dead.’
Cod fishing was formerly carried on extensively from Louisbourg. Several
of the old-time inhabitants owned thirty or forty vessels each.
There are several small fishing settlements in the neighborhood to which
driving excursions may be made, and in summer time a pleasant sailing
trip may be taken to several villages on Gabarus Bay to the south.
Leaving the South Shore to be visited from its most convenient centre,
St. Peters, the town of Baddeck may next be chosen as a favorable place
from which to view the central districts of the Island, as well as those
lying along the upper east and west coasts. It will be remembered that
steamers leave Sydney for east coast points, and Mulgrave for places on
the west coast; and these trips are both enjoyable on fine summer days,
affording as they do pleasant views of many a quaint little harbor and
village. But for a thorough and intimate acquaintance with the beautiful
island scenery, driving trips and walks should be taken from Baddeck,
Whycocomagh and Mabou. Baddeck is easily reached from Sydney by
Intercolonial Railway to Grand Narrows or Iona, from which places the
steamer _Blue Hill_ connects with incoming trains. Baddeck may also be
reached by steamer from Sydney.
The town of Baddeck is a pleasant little centre from which to see much
of the surrounding country; in addition, it is in itself a homelike and
quiet resort where enjoyable days of rest may be spent, varied by drives
and walks, and the comings and goings of the several steamers that make
this a place of call. It is a fine place for boating and sailing, and it
is one of the centres that most tourists prefer, quiet and tranquil, but
not deserted, and where some social pleasures with other visitors may be
enjoyed. It is undoubtedly one of the best centres from which to see
characteristic Cape Breton scenery. The town is on a bay harbor of the
upper Bras d’Or Lake, about midway between the northern outlet to the
Atlantic and the southern reach that ends in Whycocomagh Bay, being
about twenty miles or more from each place.
[Illustration]
There are some beautifully-placed bungalows along the shore, one of the
number belonging to George Kennan, where that _litterateur_ and
energetic traveller may be seen gardening in his moments of leisure.
On a beautiful estate of a thousand acres, not far from Baddeck, the
eminent scientist and inventor, Dr. Alexander Graham Bell, has his
summer home. Wherever the telephone has reached, Dr. Bell’s name is
known; and that is tantamount to saying he is one of the best-known men
of the world. Dr. Bell is the exemplar of the scientific inventor, the
type that builds on sound knowledge, rational induction and logical
experiment, building up patiently and through years of toil and diligent
application, step by step, a scientific edifice that would once have
been deemed a daring conception of an imaginative mind. More fortunate
than other inventors, who, like the alchemists of old, have toiled
without rest or intermission—and the fruits of whose labors have been
denied them—Dr. Bell has reaped the reward due to an honored member of
that profession which advances the progress of civilization by bounds of
a thousand years at a time; and here in Beinn Bhreagh, or “lovely
mountain,” he lives a life that is one of enjoyment—although not one of
ease in the sense that he “does nothing.”
The estate is one that may be termed a perfect heaven for the absorbed
worker in scientific, literary or other mental effort requiring
surroundings favorable for concentration of thought. Here with machine
and wood-working shops, electrical laboratory, erecting places and store
houses for aeroplanes, wharves, shelter houses and lake for testing
hydroplanes, the busy inventor works away a good part of the year when
not at his Washington home.
[Illustration]
Dr. Bell also gives time to scientific stock-farming, and keeps
elaborate records of the excellent results that are gained from time to
time. He has a competent staff of workers, all housed in the midst of
ideal surroundings on his estate.
[Illustration: Professor Bell’s Estate, Beinn Bhreagh, C.B.]
[Illustration]
The drives about Beinn Bhreagh are exceedingly lovely, and the
ever-changing water view is a continual source of delight. “Surprise
View,” well above the level of the lake, has been well-named, for in
following the winding woodland road a glorious panoramic scene of great
beauty suddenly springs into view as if by magic.
A fine observation tower crowns the heights over all. From it an
unsurpassed view may be had of ocean, lake, woodland crest, high
mountain and pastoral valley.
The natural beauties of the neighborhood are truly remarkable. Even the
farms on the western or greater channel, facing Boularderie, are
beautifully situated on the heights, with picturesque ravines and dells,
and lovely little brooks of crystal that flow along shady ways to the
lake far below.
The whole wide world possesses few nobler views than that seen from the
living rooms and porches of the Beinn Bhreagh home. It is an inspiring
prospect, beautiful each morning as the sun illumines the new continents
and mountain ranges of cloudland; and lovely by night when under the
glorious tranquility of the stars, the moon and her handmaidens, the
fleecy clouds, weave arabesques of unparalleled splendor.
“White clouds, whose shadows haunt the deep.
Light mists, whose soft embraces keep
The sunshine on the hills asleep!
* * * * *
O shapes and hues, dim beckoning through
Yon mountain gaps, my longing view
Beyond the purple and the blue.
* * * * *
I read each misty mountain sign,
I know the voice of wave and pine,
And I am yours, and ye are mine.
* * * * *
Life’s burdens fall, its discords cease,
I lapse into the glad release
Of nature’s own exceeding peace.”
A favorite drive is that from Baddeck to the upper waters of the Baddeck
River, and also by way of St. Ann’s to the North River. It was at St.
Ann’s that Nicholas Denys had one of his fortified posts in early days.
The river scenery is everywhere charming, with pretty brooks, green
woodland, banks of ferns, and clustering patches of wild flowers. At St.
Ann’s and North River the water views are very choice, and the drive is
a constant succession of delights. There is a grand side to the scenery
of this district, for the mighty hills have been riven asunder in many
places, and romantic gorges are seen from numerous places on the way.
Indian Brook, with precipitous banks, and rocky waterfall, is a
delightful scene.
The little places on the coast road to Ingonish are far remote from
travel routes, and they are full of interest. The scenes are extremely
bold and striking, and by some are thought to resemble the features of
Norway. Cap Enfumé, commonly called “Old Smoky” on account of its almost
perpetual cap of mist, is a bold object in the view, for it towers up
almost perpendicularly for some twelve hundred feet. This cape has been
termed one of the eastern bulwarks of North America, where the mighty
deep lashed into fury by the eastern tempests, thunders in vain against
this eternal rampart.
[Illustration]
One of the finest panoramic views, and innumerable others at close
range, may be seen at and around Ingonish. Mountains, islands, beautiful
bays, nestling villages and glorious air are here. Walks and excursions
on foot and by boat may be had in many directions, and the beauties of
the place need fear comparison with no other district. The descent on
the other side is believed to be one of the sights of the Maritime
Provinces. The village on the broad beach, the three harbors of
Ingonish, the picturesque lighthouse, beautiful Ingonish Island, with
its Sentinel Rock, and the far away Cape North range of mountains, make
a picture of superb beauty. Franey’s Chimney itself is no inconspicuous
object, being nearly 1400 feet high. A French cruiser once went ashore
not far from Money Point, and active tides were wont to throw up gold
coins from the wreck on to the strand. For some years people used to go
gold fishing, with long poles having the ends daubed with pitch to which
the coins adhered. Ingonish was known in French days as Inganische, and
relics of those days may still be found. There is excellent bathing at
Ingonish and it is a splendid place for a summer vacation of a restful
kind. Neil’s Harbor, Aspy Bay and Cape North are usually reached by
steamer, and inland from these places will be found unexplored land
where caribou and bear are still found. This whole area, including Bay
St. Lawrence, is beautiful, and destined to become more and more
frequented as hotels are built and roads and other facilities are
improved; and in due time a railway will doubtless skirt the coast.
[Illustration]
Out in the Atlantic in the direction of Newfoundland, about 15 miles
north-east of Cape North, is the rocky island of St. Paul’s. It is right
in the highway of ocean travel to and from the Gulf of St. Lawrence.
Many wrecks have happened here, with the loss of thousands of lives. A
hundred years ago as seamen approached the Island, they used to keep a
look-out for the sight of the immense flocks of sea-fowl known as the
great auk. These birds, now extinct, used to keep inshore; and never
ventured out to sea. They were thus a sure indication of the proximity
of land. They were so innocent that sailors could draw near and capture
them by the boat-load. They were about as large as a goose, with short
wings, coal black head and back, white beneath, and a milk-white spot
under the right eye. Of negligible value in those days, a stuffed
specimen of the great auk to-day is worth fifteen hundred dollars. The
island has now lost most of its dangers, for the sailor of to-day sees
the bright flashes from the lighthouse when nearly twenty miles out at
sea, while in thick weather he is warned by the fog-gun. A splendid
series of drives may be taken from Baddeck, by way of Hunter’s Mountain,
and through the Wagamatcook or Middle River district, by Lake O’Law, to
Margaree Forks and Margaree Harbor on the west coast. No scenery can
charm more than this—it is delightful. The Middle River waters are
exceedingly pretty, the valley is a beautiful one, and the pastoral
scenes are as fresh and enjoyable as can be. There is a comfortable and
homelike hostelry in this district. The Margaree River, a splendid
salmon stream, is full of romantic interest, for it affords a constant
succession of charming views, and here, too, everything is fresh and
smiling. None may pass through such spots without enjoying to the full
that feeling of exhilaration that accompanies the sight of such a wealth
of all that is beautiful in nature.
[Illustration: Whycocomagh]
The drive may be prolonged to Cheticamp, by putting up overnight at
places between Baddeck, Middle River, Margaree, etc. It is an Acadian
fishing village, the inhabitants of which have lived their simple lives
for more than two centuries undisturbed by all that goes on in the outer
world. The interior country is beautiful, and is much diversified by
streams of the clearest water. This, too, although remote, is a favorite
spot for the nature-lover who would see the quiet life of the people in
such far-away settlements. There is much that is picturesque in the
region of the hilly Cheticamp valley, and it is a district that will
also be opened up in due time on account of the gold and other minerals
that have been found there.
The return to Baddeck may be made by way of Inverness, Strathlorne, Lake
Ainslie, Mabou and Port Hood, in which event it is not much out of the
way to include Whycocomagh in the circuit. Or the journey may
temporarily end at Whycocomagh, and that place be chosen as a centre
from which to see the surrounding country, without the necessity of
returning to Baddeck. As there is a steamer from Baddeck to Whycocomagh,
and as it is a very enjoyable trip, made pleasant by the fine scenery on
the way, many may prefer to see the east coast and central districts
from Baddeck, and then view the west coast, middle-west and south-west
districts from Whycocomagh.
The scenery in and around Whycocomagh is very beautiful, and its
picturesque bay has been called the “Naples of America.” The country
round about is most varied, and from the top of Salt Mountain a splendid
view is commanded; nor is it necessary to climb that height unless so
disposed, for the scenery by the shores of the bay is exceedingly fine.
Whycocomagh is an ideal centre for boating and canoeing, and here, as at
Baddeck, splendid opportunities exist for enjoyable cruises by
motor-boat. There is bathing also, and fishing; and many pleasant days
may be spent at this peaceful little resort.
[Illustration: A Picnic Party]
Port Hood, Mabou and Lake Ainslie are all within convenient reach by
carriage. Port Hood has coal mines, a safe harbor, and is the centre of
a good farming district. Mabou is one of Cape Breton’s most
characteristic little places, and the scenery all through this
neighborhood is charming. The town itself is very quaint and enjoyable,
while the river and woodland walks and drives are all excellent. There
is a very comfortable little hotel here, and a restful vacation may well
be spent in this pleasant place as a centre for a series of quiet
excursions in quest of nature’s beauties. The Trout River and Lake
Ainslie are also good objectives for drives and rambles, for the scenery
in this region is full of charm.
Returning to Whycocomagh, and taking the steamer to Baddeck, and through
the Bras d’Or Lake to St. Peter’s Canal at its southern outlet, a stay
may be made in quiet St. Peter’s, the Port Toulouse of olden days, to
enjoy its calm and tranquil summer life. This place was formerly known
as Port Toulouse and was one of the fortified trading stations founded
by N. Denys. It may be well to note here that several places on this
coast, though still retaining their French names, are now exclusively
peopled by the Scotch. While the scenery of the south coast districts
does not compare with that of other parts of the island, the
neighborhood of St. Peter’s is a thoroughly pleasant one. From here
excursions may be made to the beautiful island-studded body of water
known as Loch Lomond, to L’Ardoise and also to Arichat, Petit de Grat,
and D’Escousse, on the island known as Isle Madame. Here the visitor
will find himself in another world—the Acadian world of long ago; and
the quaint life so different from that of a few hundred miles south
cannot fail to make a lasting impression on the minds of all that
sojourn for a while in these remote little outposts.
[Illustration]
The return to Point Tupper and Mulgrave may be made either by rail or
steamer.
There are splendid fishing rivers in Cape Breton, and fine trout streams
are everywhere. Hunting, and shooting of wild birds, in season is
excellent, too. Particulars relating to all Cape Breton outdoor sports
will be found in the Chapter “Where to Go.”
[Illustration: Tuna Fishing, St. Ann’s Bay, C.B.]
_Where to Go—Recommended Places_
[Illustration]
The choice of a vacation place suited to individual requirements is a
matter of considerable importance, and for those planning to visit a
country that is new to them, a brief description of the merits of
various places will be very helpful. The amusements and recreations of
each district are here given concisely. A preliminary study of this
chapter will enable visitors to make intelligent choice of a locality
best suited to their needs; and full particulars of any place under
consideration may be read in the detailed description of the district
finally chosen.
There are, of course, hundreds of delightful spots where happy vacations
may be spent if the visitor has no preference for any particular
recreation. As is well known, however, some prefer the shore, while
others like the interior life by woodland and stream. Others again are
happiest when in or near some fairly busy town centre, where some
luxuries and a social life may be enjoyed. There are others who prefer
the simple and inexpensive life of the quiet little village resort, and
others yet who like the life of a fashionable watering place. Then those
who delight in yachting, boating, canoeing, and all the pleasures of
outdoor life, as well as fishing, etc., have their preferences; and the
object of this chapter is to afford a ready choice from those places
exactly suited to particular requirements.
After the visitor has become familiar with the attractions of the
neighborhood selected, by actual residence there, he will be able to
explore in every direction; and in this way many a charming place will
be discovered that has in it the something for which he has always
longed—the life, the atmosphere so difficult to describe and which
appeal direct to the heart in some unexplained way.
It is so well understood that visitors come to the Maritime Provinces
for summer pleasures—and not to make a display of dress as at Atlantic
City and similar resorts—that all who wish to do so may wear plain and
sensible attire, and be as unconventional as they please. Of course in a
few centres, such as Quebec, Murray Bay, etc., fashionable costumes are
in evidence; but even in these places plain and sensible costumes do not
call for remark; and while it is not necessary to avoid the best hotels
where richer people congregate, there are always other comfortable
hotels and stopping-places where people of moderate means may live more
quietly and be just as happy.
Those who make a short stay in any one place will have little time for
social life; but, after the day’s pleasure is over, pleasant social
intercourse may be enjoyed—in all but the smallest places—with those who
are sojourning in the same locality. In the larger centres social life
is quite an enjoyable feature of the summer vacation, and here, too,
visitors mingle on the porches, etc. at night, and pass many pleasant
hours in discussing the scenery and other features of the district. If
making a stay of weeks or months at any one place, it is a good plan to
have introductions to some of its leading people, as in this way many
delightful hours will be spent in pleasant society. Canadian people are
very hospitable, as a rule, and in many places of small and medium size,
visitors will frequently be asked to participate in tennis, boating and
driving, etc., as soon as they have settled down in summer quarters. In
all places of any pretensions as summer resorts, golf, tennis, bathing,
etc., are provided by the management of the principal stopping-places,
and in such resorts the visitor enjoys such recreation without having to
await an invitation from residents—as must necessarily be the case in
small places where no public facilities of the kind are provided.
Where an asterisk * is inserted before the name of a place or district,
under any heading such as “Historic Interest,” “Summer Vacation Life,”
“Yachting,” “Canoeing,” etc., it denotes a place of commanding
excellence for the enjoyment of that particular interest.
_Places of Historic Interest_:
*Quebec, Tadousac, St. John, Halifax, Annapolis Valley, Annapolis
Royal, Louisbourg.
_Places that are Centres for the Enjoyment of Beautiful Scenery_:
*Quebec, *Murray Bay (via Riviere Ouelle), *Tadousac (via Riviere du
Loup), Bic, Metis, *Causapscal, *Matapedia, Bathurst, Newcastle,
Chatham, *Fredericton, *St. John, Montague River (P.E.I.), *Truro,
*Wentworth Valley, *Halifax, *Chester, *Baddeck, St. Ann’s, *Ingonish,
Mabou, *Whycocomagh.
_Places that are Centres for Romantic and Interesting Country_:
All of those in the preceding division, and Riviere du Loup,
Campbellton, Dalhousie, *Charlo, Shelburne, Antigonish, Guysboro,
Sydney, Middle River, *Margaree River, Cheticamp.
_Watering Places that are well frequented and where some life is going
on, suited for those who like a little gaiety_:
*Murray Bay, *Tadousac. (For those who like life in cities, *Quebec,
*St. John and *Halifax may be here included.)
_Watering Places of smaller size, where the usual quiet life of the
small resort may be enjoyed_:
Riviere du Loup (Fraserville), Cacouna, Kamouraska, Bic, Rimouski,
*Little Metis, Dalhousie, *Charlo, Jacquet River, Bathurst, Newcastle,
Chatham, *Rothesay, *Fredericton, *Charlottetown, Summerside,
*Chester, Antigonish, *Baddeck, Grand Narrows, *Ingonish, Montmorency.
_Watering Places of the smallest size, where very quiet days may be
spent_:
*Causapscal, Folleigh, Pugwash, Pictou, Shediac, Tignish, Alberton,
Tracadie, Souris, *Montague, Georgetown, Murray Harbor, St. Peters,
Cheticamp, *Middle River, *Margaree Forks, *Mabou, *Chateau Richer.
_Small Places in which, although water is near, country features
predominate_:
Montmagny, *Causapscal, *Jacquet River, *Folleigh, *Hampton, *Sussex,
Petitcodiac, Boiestown, Doaktown, Blackville, Hunter River,
*Bradalbane.
[Illustration]
Yachting waters of most enjoyable character are found at Quebec and all
St. Lawrence River resorts; and at *Campbellton, *Dalhousie, *Bathurst
and other Bay of Chaleur points, including several places on the Gaspé
peninsula; *Newcastle and *Chatham, on Miramichi Bay; *St. John and on
the Lower St. John River; Charlottetown, Summerside, Murray Harbor,
Georgetown and Souris on Prince Edward Island; Pugwash, Pictou and
Mulgrave, in Northern Nova Scotia; *Halifax, St. Margaret’s Bay,
*Chester and *Shelburne, on the South Shore; Guysboro and other harbors
on the south-eastern shore; and on *Bras d’Or Lakes, *Baddeck,
*Whycocomagh, *Sydney, St. Ann’s Bay and several harbors of the Cape
Breton coast.
[Illustration]