milk, and, when done, put it into a basin: put half the remainder of the
milk into a saucepan with the ground rice, fresh butter, lemon-rind, and
3 oz. of the sugar, and let these ingredients boil until the mixture is
stiff, stirring them continually; when done, pour it into the bowl where
the custard is, mixing both well together. Put the gelatine with the
rest of the milk into a saucepan, and let it stand by the side of the
fire to dissolve; boil for a minute or two, stir carefully into the
basin, adding 3 oz. more of pounded sugar. When cold, stir in the
lemon-juice, which should be carefully strained, and pour the mixture
into a well-oiled mould, leaving out the lemon-peel, and set the mould
in a pan of cold water until wanted for table. Use eggs that have
rich-looking yolks; and, should the weather be very warm, rather a
larger proportion of gelatine must be allowed.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ to fill 2 small moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time.
LEMON CREAM.
1443. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1/4 lb. of
white sugar, 1 large lemon, 1 oz. of isinglass.
[Illustration: LEMON-CREAM MOULD.]
_Mode_.--Put the cream into a _lined_ saucepan with the sugar,
lemon-peel, and isinglass, and simmer these over a gentle fire for about
10 minutes, stirring them all the time. Strain the cream into a jug, add
the yolks of eggs, which should be well beaten, and put the jug into a
saucepan of boiling water; stir the mixture one way until it thickens,
_but do not allow it to boil_; take it off the fire, and keep stirring
it until nearly cold. Strain the lemon-juice into a basin, gradually
pour on it the cream, and _stir it well_ until the juice is well mixed
with it. Have ready a well-oiled mould, pour the cream into it, and let
it remain until perfectly set. When required for table, loosen the edges
with a small blunt knife, put a dish on the top of the mould, turn it
over quickly, and the cream should easily slip away.
_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the cream; about 10 minutes to stir it over
the fire in the jug.
_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, and the best isinglass, 2s.
6d.
_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.
ECONOMICAL LEMON CREAM.
1444. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of milk, 8 bitter almonds, 2 oz. of
gelatine, 2 large lemons, 3/4 lb. of lump sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs.
_Mode_.--Put the milk into a lined saucepan with the almonds, which
should be well pounded in a mortar, the gelatine, lemon-rind, and lump
sugar, and boil these ingredients for about 5 minutes. Beat up the yolks
of the eggs, strain the milk into a jug, add the eggs, and pour the
mixture backwards and forwards a few times, until nearly cold; then stir
briskly to it the lemon-juice, which should be strained, and keep
stirring until the cream is almost cold: put it into an oiled mould, and
let it remain until perfectly set. The lemon-juice must not be added to
the cream when it is warm, and should be well stirred after it is put
in.
_Time_.--5 minutes to boil the milk. _Average cost_, 2s. 5d.
_Sufficient_ to fill two 1-1/2-pint moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time.
LEMON CREAMS.
(_Very good_.)
1445. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of cream, 2 dozen sweet almonds, 3 glasses of
sherry, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, sugar to taste.
_Mode_.--Blanch and chop the almonds, and put them into a jug with the
cream; in another jug put the sherry, lemon-rind, strained juice, and
sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Pour rapidly from
one jug to the other till the mixture is well frothed; then, pour it
into jelly-glasses, omitting the lemon-rind. This is a very cool and
delicious sweet for summer, and may be made less rich by omitting the
almonds and substituting orange or raisin wine for the sherry.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s.
_Sufficient_ to fill 12 glasses. _Seasonable_ at any time.
LEMON CREAMS OF CUSTARDS.
1446. INGREDIENTS.--5 oz. of loaf sugar, 2 pints of boiling water, the
rind of 1 lemon and the juice of 3, the yolks of 8 eggs.
_Mode_.--Make a quart of lemonade in the following manner:--Dissolve the
sugar in the boiling water, having previously, with part of the sugar,
rubbed off the lemon-rind, and add the strained juice. Strain the
lemonade into a saucepan, and add the yolks of the eggs, which should be
well beaten; stir this _one way_ over the fire until the mixture
thickens, but do not allow it to boil, and serve in custard-glasses, or
on a glass dish. After the boiling water is poured on the sugar and
lemon, it should stand covered for about 1/2 hour before the eggs are
added to it, that the flavour of the rind may be extracted.
_Time_.--1/2 hour to make the lemonade; about 10 minutes to stir the
custard over the fire.
_Average cost_, 1s.
_Sufficient_ to fill 12 to 14 custard-glasses. _Seasonable_ at any time.
LEMON JELLY.
1447. INGREDIENTS.--6 lemons, 3/4 lb. of lump sugar, 1 pint of water,
1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, 1/4 pint of sherry.
_Mode_.--Peel 3 of the lemons, pour 1/2 pint of boiling water on the
rind, and let it infuse for 1/2 hour; put the sugar, isinglass, and 1/2
pint of water into a lined saucepan, and boil these ingredients for 20
minutes; then put in the strained lemon-juice, the strained infusion of
the rind, and bring the whole to the point of boiling; skim well, add
the wine, and run the jelly through a bag; pour it into a mould that has
been wetted or soaked in water; put it in ice, if convenient, where let
it remain until required for table. Previously to adding the lemon-juice
to the other ingredients, ascertain that it is very nicely strained, as,
if this is not properly attended to, it is liable to make the jelly
thick and muddy. As this jelly is very pale, and almost colourless, it
answers very well for moulding with a jelly of any bright hue; for
instance, half a jelly bright red, and the other half made of the above,
would have a very good effect. Lemon jelly may also be made with
calf's-feet stock, allowing the juice of 3 lemons to every pint of
stock.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour.
_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d.
_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.
LEMON SPONGE.
1448. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of isinglass, 1-3/4 pint of water, 3/4 lb. of
pounded sugar, the juice of 5 lemons, the rind of 1, the whites of 3
eggs.
_Mode_.--Dissolve the isinglass in the water, strain it into a saucepan,
and add the sugar, lemon-rind, and juice. Boil the whole from 10 to 15
minutes; strain it again, and let it stand till it is cold and begins to
stiffen. Beat the whites of the eggs, put them to it, and whisk the
mixture till it is quite white; put it into a mould which has been
previously wetted, and let it remain until perfectly set; then turn it
out, and garnish it according to taste.
_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s.
6d.
_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.
LIQUEUR JELLY.
1449. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of lump sugar, 2 oz. of isinglass, 1-1/2 pint
of water, the juice of 2 lemons, 1/4 pint of liqueur.
[Illustration: OVAL JELLY-MOULD.]
_Mode_.--Put the sugar, with 1 pint of the water, into a stewpan, and
boil them gently by the side of the fire until there is no scum
remaining, which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises. Boil the
isinglass with the other 1/2 pint of water, and skim it carefully in the
same manner. Strain the lemon-juice, and add it, with the clarified
isinglass, to the syrup; put in the liqueur, and bring the whole to the
boiling-point. Let the saucepan remain covered by the side of the fire
for a few minutes; then pour the jelly through a bag, put it into a
mould, and set the mould in ice until required for table. Dip the mould
in hot water, wipe the outside, loosen the jelly by passing a knife
round the edges, and turn it out carefully on a dish. Noyeau,
Maraschino, Curaçoa, brandy, or any kind of liqueur, answers for this
jelly; and, when made with isinglass, liqueur jellies are usually
prepared as directed above.
_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the sugar and water.
_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.
A SWEET DISH OF MACARONI.
1450. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of macaroni, 1-1/2 pint of milk, the rind of
1/2 lemon, 3 oz. of lump sugar, 3/4 pint of custard No. 1423.
_Mode_.--Put the milk into a saucepan, with the lemon-peel and sugar;
bring it to the boiling-point, drop in the macaroni, and let it
gradually swell over a gentle fire, but do not allow the pipes to break.
The form should be entirely preserved; and, though tender, should be
firm, and not soft, with no part beginning to melt. Should the milk dry
away before the macaroni is sufficiently swelled, add a little more.
Make a custard by recipe No. 1423; place the macaroni on a dish, and
pour the custard over the hot macaroni; grate over it a little nutmeg,
and, when cold, garnish the dish with slices of candied citron.
_Time_.--From 40 to 50 minutes to swell the macaroni.
_Average cost_, with the custard, 1s.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.
MERINGUES.
1451. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of pounded sugar, the whites of 4 eggs.
[Illustration: MERINGUES.]
_Mode_.--Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and, with a
wooden spoon, stir in _quickly_ the pounded sugar; and have some boards
thick enough to put in the oven to prevent the bottom of the meringues
from acquiring too much colour. Cut some strips of paper about 2 inches
wide; place this paper on the board, and drop a tablespoonful at a time
of the mixture on the paper, taking care to let all the meringues be the
same size. In dropping it from the spoon, give the mixture the form of
an egg, and keep the meringues about 2 inches apart from each other on
the paper. Strew over them some sifted sugar, and bake in a moderate
oven for 1/2 hour. As soon as they begin to colour, remove them from the
oven; take each slip of paper by the two ends, and turn it gently on the
table, and, with a small spoon, take out the soft part of each meringue.
Spread some clean paper on the board, turn the meringues upside down,
and put them into the oven to harden and brown on the other side. When
required for table, fill them with whipped cream, flavoured with liqueur
or vanilla, and sweetened with pounded sugar. Join two of the meringues
together, and pile them high in the dish, as shown in the annexed
drawing. To vary their appearance, finely-chopped almonds or currants
may be strewn over them before the sugar is sprinkled over; and they may
be garnished with any bright-coloured preserve. Great expedition is
necessary in making this sweet dish; as, if the meringues are not put
into the oven as soon as the sugar and eggs are mixed, the former melts,
and the mixture would run on the paper, instead of keeping its
egg-shape. The sweeter the meringues are made, the crisper will they be;
but, if there is not sufficient sugar mixed with them, they will most
likely be tough. They are sometimes coloured with cochineal; and, if
kept well covered in a dry place, will remain good for a month or six
weeks.
_Time_.--Altogether, about 1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, with the cream and flavouring, 1s.
_Sufficient_ to make 2 dozen meringues. _Seasonable_ at any time.
NOYEAU CREAM.
1452. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, the juice of 2 lemons,
noyeau and pounded sugar to taste, 1-1/2 pint of cream.
_Mode_.--Dissolve the isinglass in a little boiling water, add the
lemon-juice, and strain this to the cream, putting in sufficient noyeau
and sugar to flavour and sweeten the mixture nicely; whisk the cream
well, put it into an oiled mould, and set the mould in ice or in a cool
place; turn it out, and garnish the dish to taste.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint and the best isinglass, 4s.
_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.
OPEN JELLY WITH WHIPPED CREAM.
(_A very pretty dish_.)
1453. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of jelly, 1/2 pint of cream, 1 glass of
sherry, sugar to taste.
[Illustration: OPEN JELLY WITH WHIPPED CREAM.]
_Mode_.--Make the above proportion of calf's-feet or isinglass jelly,
colouring and flavouring it in any way that may be preferred; soak a
mould, open in the centre, for about 1/2 hour in cold water; fill it
with the jelly, and let it remain in a cool place until perfectly set;
then turn it out on a dish; fill the centre with whipped cream,
flavoured with sherry and sweetened with pounded sugar; pile this cream
high in the centre, and serve. The jelly should be made of rather a dark
colour, to contrast nicely with the cream.
_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.
ORANGE JELLY.
1454. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of water, 1-1/2 to 2 oz. of isinglass, 1/2
lb. of loaf sugar, 1 Seville orange, 1 lemon, about 9 China oranges.
[Illustration: OPEN MOULD.]
_Mode_.--Put the water into a saucepan, with the isinglass, sugar, and
the rind of 1 orange, and the same of 1/2 lemon, and stir these over the
fire until the isinglass is dissolved, and remove the scum; then add to
this the juice of the Seville orange, the juice of the lemon, and
sufficient juice of China oranges to make in all 1 pint; from 8 to 10
oranges will yield the desired quantity. Stir all together over the fire
until it is just on the point of boiling; skim well; then strain the
jelly through a very fine sieve or jelly-bag, and when nearly cold, put
it into a mould previously wetted, and, when quite set, turn it out on a
dish, and garnish it to taste. To insure this jelly being clear, the
orange-and lemon-juice should be well strained, and the isinglass
clarified, before they are added to the other ingredients, and, to
heighten the colour, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added.
_Time_.--5 minutes to boil without the juice; 1 minute after it is
added.
_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ from November to May.
ORANGE JELLY MOULDED WITH SLICES OF ORANGE.
1455. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of orange jelly No. 1454, 4 oranges, 1
pint of clarified syrup.
_Mode_.--Boil 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar with 1/2 pint of water until there
is no scum left (which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises),
and carefully peel the oranges; divide them into thin slices, without
breaking the thin skin, and put these pieces of orange into the syrup,
where let them remain for about 5 minutes; then take them out, and use
the syrup for the jelly, which should be made by recipe No. 1454. When
the oranges are well drained, and the jelly is nearly cold, pour a
little of the latter into the bottom of the mould; then lay in a few
pieces of orange; over these pour a little jelly, and when this is set,
place another layer of oranges, proceeding in this manner until the
mould is full. Put it in ice, or in a cool place, and, before turning it
out, wrap a cloth round the mould for a minute or two, which has been
wrung out in boiling water.
_Time_.--5 minutes to simmer the oranges. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d.
_Sufficient_, with the slices of orange, to fill a quart mould.
_Seasonable_ from November to May.
TO MAKE A PLAIN OMELET.
1456. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1/3 saltspoonful of
pepper, 1/4 lb. of butter.
[Illustration: OMELET.]
_Mode_.--Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3, and beat
them up with the salt and pepper until extremely light; then add 2 oz.
of the butter broken into small pieces, and stir this into the mixture.
Put the other 2 oz. of butter into a frying-pan, make it quite hot, and,
as soon as it begins to bubble, whisk the eggs, &c. very briskly for a
minute or two, and pour them into the pan; stir the omelet with a spoon
one way until the mixture thickens and becomes firm, and when the whole
is set, fold the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form;
and when it is nicely brown on one side, and quite firm, it is done. To
take off the rawness on the upper side, hold the pan before the fire for
a minute or two, and brown it with a salamander or hot shovel. Serve
very expeditiously on a very hot dish, and never cook it until it is
just wanted. The flavour of this omelet may be very much enhanced by
adding minced parsley, minced onion or eschalot, or grated cheese,
allowing 1 tablespoonful of the former, and half the quantity of the
latter, to the above proportion of eggs. Shrimps or oysters may also be
added: the latter should be scalded in their liquor, and then bearded
and cut into small pieces. In making an omelet, be particularly careful
that it is not too thin, and, to avoid this, do not make it in too large
a frying-pan, as the mixture would then spread too much, and taste of
the outside. It should also not be greasy, burnt, or too much done, and
should be cooked over a gentle fire, that the whole of the substance may
be heated without drying up the outside. Omelets are sometimes served
with gravy; but _this should never be poured over them_, but served in a
tureen, as the liquid causes the omelet to become heavy and flat,
instead of eating light and soft. In making the gravy, the flavour
should not overpower that of the omelet, and should be thickened with
arrowroot or rice flour.
_Time_.--With 6 eggs, in a frying-pan 18 or 20 inches round, 4 to 6
minutes. _Average cost_, 9d.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.
HAM OMELET (_A delicious Breakfast Dish_.)
1457. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper,
2 tablespoonfuls of minced ham.
_Mode_.--Mince the ham very finely, without any fat, and fry it for 2
minutes in a little butter; then make the batter for the omelet, stir in
the ham, and proceed as directed in recipe No. 1456. Do not add any salt
to the batter, as the ham is usually sufficiently salt to impart a
flavour to the omelet. Good lean bacon, or tongue, answers equally well
for this dish; but they must also be slightly cooked previously to
mixing them with the batter. Serve very hot and quickly, without gravy.
_Time_.--From 4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.
KIDNEY OMELET (_A favourite French dish_.)
1458. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1/2 saltspoonful of
pepper, 2 sheep's kidneys, or 2 tablespoonfuls of minced veal kidney, 5
oz. of butter.
_Mode_.--Skin the kidneys, cut them into small dice, and toss them in a
frying-pan, in 1 oz. of butter, over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes. Mix
the ingredients for the omelet the same as in recipe No. 1456, and when
the eggs are well whisked, stir in the pieces of kidney. Make the butter
hot in the frying-pan, and when it bubbles, pour in the omelet, and fry
it over a gentle fire from 4 to 6 minutes. When the eggs are set, fold
the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form, and be careful
that it is not too much done: to brown the top, hold the pan before the
fire for a minute or two, or use a salamander until the desired colour
is obtained, but never turn an omelet in the pan. Slip it carefully on
to a _very hot_ dish, or, what is a much safer method, put a dish on the
omelet, and turn the pan quickly over. It should be served the instant
it comes from the fire.
_Time_.--4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.
TO MAKE A PLAIN SWEET OMELET.
1459. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of sifted sugar.
_Mode_.--Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3; whisk
them well, adding the sugar and 2 oz. of the butter, which should be
broken into small pieces, and stir all these ingredients well together.
Make the remainder of the butter quite hot in a small frying-pan, and
when it commences to bubble, pour in the eggs, &c. Keep stirring them
until they begin to set; then turn the edges of the omelet over, to make
it an oval shape, and finish cooking it. To brown the top, hold the pan
before the fire, or use a salamander, and turn it carefully on to a
_very hot_ dish: sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve.
_Time_.--From 4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.
OMELETTE AUX CONFITURES, or JAM OMELET.
1460. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of
apricot, strawberry, or any jam that may be preferred.
_Mode_.--Make the omelet by recipe No. 1459, only instead of doubling it
over, leave it flat in the pan. When quite firm, and nicely brown on one
side, turn it carefully on to a hot dish, spread over the middle of it
the jam, and fold the omelet over on each side; sprinkle sifted sugar
over, and serve very quickly. A pretty dish of small omelets may be made
by dividing the batter into 3 or 4 portions, and frying them separately;
they should then be spread each one with a different kind of preserve,
and the omelets rolled over. Always sprinkle sweet omelets with sifted
sugar before being sent to table.
_Time_.--4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.
OMELETTE SOUFFLÉ.
1461. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 5 oz. of pounded sugar, flavouring of
vanilla, orange-flower water, or lemon-rind, 3 oz. of butter, 1
dessert-spoonful of rice-flour.
_Mode_.--Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, add to the
former the sugar, the rice-flour, and either of the above flavourings
that may be preferred, and stir these ingredients well together. Whip
the whites of the eggs, mix them lightly with the batter, and put the
butter into a small frying-pan. As soon as it begins to bubble, pour the
batter into it, and set the pan over a bright but gentle fire; and when
the omelet is set, turn the edges over to make it an oval shape, and
slip it on to a silver dish, which has been previously well buttered.
Put it in the oven, and bake from 12 to 15 minutes; sprinkle
finely-powdered sugar over the soufflé, and _serve it immediately_.
_Time_.--About 4 minutes in the pan; to bake, from 12 to 15 minutes.
_Average cost_. 1s.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.
BACHELOR'S OMELET.
1462. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of
flour, 1/2 teacupful of milk.
_Mode_.--Make a thin cream of the flour and milk; then beat up the eggs,
mix all together, and add a pinch of salt and a few grains of cayenne.
Melt the butter in a small frying-pan, and, when very hot, pour in the
batter. Let the pan remain for a few minutes over a clear fire; then
sprinkle upon the omelet some chopped herbs and a few shreds of onion;
double the omelet dexterously, and shake it out of the pan on to a hot
dish. A simple sweet omelet can be made by the same process,
substituting sugar or preserve for the chopped herbs.
_Time_.--2 minutes.
_Average cost_, 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 2 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
ORANGE CREAM.
1463. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of isinglass, 6 large oranges, 1 lemon, sugar
to taste, water, 1/2 pint of good cream.
[Illustration: OPEN MOULD.]
_Mode_.--Squeeze the juice from the oranges and lemon; strain it, and
put it into a saucepan with the isinglass, and sufficient water to make
in all 1-1/2 pint. Rub the sugar on the orange and lemon-rind, add it to
the other ingredients, and boil all together for about 10 minutes.
Strain through a muslin bag, and, when cold, beat up with it 1/2 pint of
thick cream. Wet a mould, or soak it in cold water; pour in the cream,
and put it in a cool place to set. If the weather is very cold, 1 oz. of
isinglass will be found sufficient for the above proportion of
ingredients.
_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the juice and water.
_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s.
_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould.
_Seasonable_ from November to May.
ORANGE CREAMS.
1464. INGREDIENTS.--1 Seville orange, 1 tablespoonful of brandy, 1/4 lb.
of loaf sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream.
_Mode_.--Boil the rind of the Seville orange until tender, and beat it
in a mortar to a pulp; add to it the brandy, the strained juice of the
orange, and the sugar, and beat all together for about 10 minutes,
adding the well-beaten yolks of eggs. Bring the cream to the
boiling-point, and pour it very gradually to the other ingredients, and
beat the mixture till nearly cold; put it into custard-cups, place the
cups in a deep dish of boiling water, where let them remain till quite
cold. Take the cups out of the water, wipe them, and garnish the tops of
the creams with candied orange-peel or preserved chips.
_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour.
_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 1s. 7d.
_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 creams.
_Seasonable_ from November to May.
_Note_.--To render this dish more economical, substitute milk for the
cream, but add a small pinch of isinglass to make the creams firm.
SEVILLE ORANGE (_Citrus vulgaris_).--This variety, called also
_bitter orange_, is of the same species as the sweet orange, and
grows in great abundance on the banks of the Guadalquiver, in
Andalusia, whence this fruit is chiefly obtained. In that part
of Spain there are very extensive orchards of these oranges,
which form the chief wealth of the monasteries. The pulp of the
bitter orange is not eaten raw. In the yellow rind, separated
from the white spongy substance immediately below it, is
contained an essential oil, which is an agreeable warm aromatic,
much superior for many purposes to that of the common orange.
The best marmalade and the richest wine are made from this
orange; and from its flowers the best orange-flower water is
distilled. Seville oranges are also preserved whole as a
sweetmeat.
ORANGE FRITTERS.
1465. INGREDIENTS.--For the batter, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter,
1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk, oranges, hot lard or clarified
dripping.
_Mode_.--Make a nice light batter with the above proportion of flour,
butter, salt, eggs, and sufficient milk to make it the proper
consistency; peel the oranges, remove as much of the white skin as
possible, and divide each orange into eight pieces, without breaking the
thin skin, unless it be to remove the pips; dip each piece of orange in
the batter. Have ready a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping; drop
in the oranges, and fry them a delicate brown from 8 to 10 minutes. When
done, lay them on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire, to drain
away the greasy moisture, and dish them on a white d'oyley; sprinkle
over them plenty of pounded sugar, and serve quickly.
_Time_.--8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters; 5 minutes to drain them.
_Average cost_, 9d.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from November to May.
A PRETTY DISH OF ORANGES.
1466. INGREDIENTS.--6 large oranges, 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 1/4 pint of
water, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of any kind of liqueur, sugar
to taste.
_Mode_.--Put the sugar and water into a saucepan, and boil them until
the sugar becomes brittle, which may be ascertained by taking up a small
quantity in a spoon, and dipping it in cold water; if the sugar is
sufficiently boiled, it will easily snap. Peel the oranges, remove as
much of the white pith as possible, and divide them into nice-sized
slices, without breaking the thin white skin which surrounds the juicy
pulp. Place the pieces of orange on small skewers, dip them into the hot
sugar, and arrange them in layers round a plain mould, which should be
well oiled with the purest salad-oil. The sides of the mould only should
be lined with the oranges, and the centre left open for the cream. Let
the sugar become firm by cooling; turn the oranges carefully out on a
dish, and fill the centre with whipped cream, flavoured with any kind of
liqueur, and sweetened with pounded sugar. This is an exceedingly
ornamental and nice dish for the supper-table.
_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the sugar. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d.
_Sufficient_ for 1 mould. _Seasonable_ from November to May.
TO MAKE PANCAKES.
1467. INGREDIENTS.--Eggs, flour, milk; to every egg allow 1 oz. of
flour, about 1 gill of milk, 1/8 saltspoonful of salt.
[Illustration: PANCAKES.]
_Mode_.--Ascertain that the eggs are fresh; break each one separately in
a cup; whisk them well, put them into a basin, with the flour, salt, and
a few drops of milk, and beat the whole to a perfectly _smooth_ batter;
then add by degrees the remainder of the milk. The proportion of this
latter ingredient must be regulated by the size of the eggs, &c. &c.;
but the batter, when ready for frying, should be of the consistency of
thick cream. Place a small frying-pan on the fire to get hot; let it be
delicately clean, or the pancakes will stick, and, when quite hot, put
into it a small piece of butter, allowing about 1/2 oz. to each pancake.
When it is melted, pour in the batter, about 1/2 teacupful to a pan 5
inches in diameter, and fry it for about 4 minutes, or until it is
nicely brown on one side. By only pouring in a small quantity of batter,
and so making the pancakes thin, the necessity of turning them (an
operation rather difficult to unskilful cooks) is obviated. When the
pancake is done, sprinkle over it some pounded sugar, roll it up in the
pan, and take it out with a large slice, and place it on a dish before
the fire. Proceed in this manner until sufficient are cooked for a dish;
then send them quickly to table, and continue to send in a further
quantity, as pancakes are never good unless eaten almost immediately
they come from the frying-pan. The batter may be flavoured with a little
grated lemon-rind, or the pancakes may have preserve rolled in them
instead of sugar. Send sifted sugar and a cut lemon to table with them.
To render the pancakes very light, the yolks and whites of the eggs
should be beaten separately, and the whites added the last thing to the
batter before frying.
_Time_.--from 4 to 6 minutes for a pancake that does not require
turning; from 6 to 8 minutes for a thicker one.
_Average cost_, for 3 persons, 6d.
_Sufficient._--Allow 3 eggs, with the other ingredients in proportion,
for 3 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time, but specially served on Shrove Tuesday.
RICHER PANCAKES.
1468. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 1 pint of cream, 1/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 1
glass of sherry, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, flour.
_Mode_.--Ascertain that the eggs are extremely fresh, beat them well,
strain and mix with them the cream, pounded sugar, wine, nutmeg, and as
much flour as will make the batter nearly as thick as that for ordinary
pancakes. Make the frying-pan hot, wipe it with a clean cloth, pour in
sufficient batter to make a thin pancake, and fry it for about 5
minutes. Dish the pancakes piled one above the other, strew sifted sugar
between each, and serve.
_Time_.--About 5 minutes.
_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 2s. 3d.
_Sufficient_ to make 8 pancakes.
_Seasonable_ at any time, but specially served on Shrove Tuesday.
PEACH FRITTERS.
1469. INGREDIENTS.--For the batter: 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter,
1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk;--peaches, hot lard or clarified
dripping.
_Mode_.--Make a nice smooth, batter in the same manner as directed in
recipe No. 1393, and skin, halve, and stone the peaches, which should be
quite ripe; dip them in the batter, and fry the pieces in hot lard or
clarified dripping, which should be brought to the boiling-point before
the peaches are put in. From 8 to 10 minutes will be required to fry
them, and, when done, drain them before the fire, and dish them on a
white d'oyley. Strew over plenty of pounded sugar, and serve.
_Time_.--From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters, 6 minutes to drain
them.
_Average cost_, 1s.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September.
[Illustration: PEACH.]
PEACH.--The peach and nectarine are amongst the most delicious
of our fruits, and are considered as varieties of the same
species produced by cultivation. The former is characterized by
a very delicate down, while the latter is smooth; but, as a
proof of their identity as to species, trees have borne peaches
in one part and nectarines in another; and even a single fruit
has had down on one side and the other smooth. The trees are
almost exactly alike, as well as the blossoms. Pliny states that
the peach was originally brought from Persia, where it grows
naturally, from which the name of Persica was bestowed upon it
by the Romans; and some modern botanists apply this as the
generic name, separating them from _Amygdalus_, or Almond, to
which Linnaeus had united them. Although they are not tropical,
they require a great deal of warmth to bring them to perfection:
hence they seldom ripen in this country, in ordinary seasons,
without the use of walls or glass; consequently, they bear a
high price. In a good peach, the flesh is firm, the skin thin,
of a deep bright colour next the sun and of a yellowish green
next to the wall; the pulp is yellowish, full of
highly-flavoured juice, the fleshy part thick, and the stone
small. Too much down is a sign of inferior quality. This fruit
is much used at the dessert, and makes a delicious preserve.
PEARS A L'ALLEMANDE.
1470. INGREDIENTS.--6 to 8 pears, water, sugar, 2 oz. of butter, the
yolk of an egg, 1/2 oz. of gelatine.
_Mode_.--Peel and cut the pears into any form that may be preferred, and
steep them in cold water to prevent them turning black; put them into a
saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them, and boil them with
the butter and enough sugar to sweeten them nicely, until tender; then
brush the pears over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle them with sifted
sugar, and arrange them on a dish. Add the gelatine to the syrup, boil
it up quickly for about 5 minutes, strain it over the pears, and let it
remain until set. The syrup may be coloured with a little prepared
cochineal, which would very much improve the appearance of the dish.
_Time_.--From 20 minutes to 1/2 hour to stew the pears; 5 minutes to
boil the syrup.
_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.
_Sufficient_ for a large dish.
_Seasonable_ from August to February.
MOULDED PEARS.
1471. INGREDIENTS.--4 large pears or 6 small ones, 8 cloves, sugar to
taste, water, a small piece of cinnamon, 1/4 pint of raisin wine, a
strip of lemon-peel, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 oz. of gelatine.
_Mode_.--Peel and cut the pears into quarters; put them into a jar with
3/4 pint of water, cloves, cinnamon, and sufficient sugar to sweeten the
whole nicely; cover down the top of the jar, and bake the pears in a
gentle oven until perfectly tender, but do not allow them to break. When
done, lay the pears in a plain mould, which should be well wetted, and
boil 1/2 pint of the liquor the pears were baked in with the wine,
lemon-peel, strained juice, and gelatine. Let these ingredients boil
quickly for 5 minutes, then strain the liquid warm over the pears; put
the mould in a cool place, and when the jelly is firm, turn it out on a
glass dish.
_Time_.--2 hours to bake the pears in a cool oven.
_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.
_Sufficient_ for a quart mould.
_Seasonable_ from August to February
PINEAPPLE FRITTERS.
(_An elegant Dish_.)
1472. INGREDIENTS.--A small pineapple, a small wineglassful of brandy or
liqueur, 2 oz. of sifted sugar; batter as for apple fritters No. 1393.
_Mode_.--This elegant dish, although it may appear extravagant, is
really not so if made when pineapples are plentiful. We receive them now
in such large quantities from the West Indies, that at times they may be
purchased at an exceedingly low rate: it would not, of course, be
economical to use the pines which are grown in our English pineries for
the purposes of fritters. Pare the pine with as little waste as
possible, cut it into rather thin slices, and soak these slices in the
above proportion of brandy or liqueur and pounded sugar for 4 hours;
then make a batter the same as for apple fritters, substituting cream
for the milk, and using a smaller quantity of flour; and, when this is
ready, dip in the pieces of pine, and fry them in boiling lard from 5 to
8 minutes; turn them when sufficiently brown on one side, and, when
done, drain them from the lard before the fire, dish them on a white
d'oyley, strew over them sifted sugar, and serve quickly.
_Time_.--5 to 8 minutes.
_Average cost_, when cheap and plentiful, 1s. 6d. for the pine.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ in July and August.
PINEAPPLE.--The pineapple has not been known in Europe above two
hundred years, and has not been cultivated in England much above
a century. It is stated that the first pineapples raised in
Europe were by M. La Cour, of Leyden, about the middle of the
17th century; and it is said to have been first cultivated in
England by Sir Matthew Decker, of Richmond. In Kensington
Palace, there is a picture in which Charles II. is represented
as receiving a pineapple from his gardener Rose, who is
presenting it on his knees.
PLAIN FRITTERS.
1473. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of flour, 3 eggs, 1/3 pint of milk.
[Illustration: STAR FRITTER-MOULD.]
_Mode_.--Mix the flour to a smooth batter with a small quantity of the
milk; stir in the eggs, which should be well whisked, and then the
remainder of the milk; boat the whole to a perfectly smooth batter, and
should it be found not quite thin enough, add two or three
tablespoonfuls more milk. Have ready a frying-pan, with plenty of
boiling lard in it; drop in rather more than a tablespoonful at a time
of the batter, and fry the fritters a nice brown, turning them when
sufficiently cooked on one side. Drain them well from the greasy
moisture by placing them upon a piece of blotting-paper before the
fire; dish them on a white d'oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and
send to table with them a cut lemon and plenty of pounded sugar.
_Time_.--From 6 to 8 minutes.
_Average cost_, 4d.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
POTATO FRITTERS.
1474. INGREDIENTS.--2 large potatoes, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream,
2 ditto of raisin or sweet wine, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 4
teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, hot lard.
[Illustration: SCROLL FRITTER-MOULD.]
_Mode_.--Boil the potatoes, and beat them up lightly with a fork, but do
not use a spoon, as that would make them heavy. Beat the eggs well,
leaving out one of the whites; add the other ingredients, and beat all
together for at least 20 minutes, or until the batter is extremely
light. Put plenty of good lard into a frying-pan, and drop a
tablespoonful of the batter at a time into it, and fry the fritters a
nice brown. Serve them with the following sauce:--A glass of sherry
mixed with the strained juice of a lemon, and sufficient white sugar to
sweeten the whole nicely. Warm these ingredients, and serve the sauce
separately in a tureen. The fritters should be neatly dished on a white
d'oyley, and pounded sugar sprinkled over them; and they should be well
drained on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire previously to being
dished.
_Time_.--From 6 to 8 minutes.
_Average cost_, 9d.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
RASPBERRY CREAM.
1475. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 pint of milk, 3/4 pint of cream, 1-1/2 oz. of
isinglass, raspberry jelly, sugar to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy.
[Illustration: RASPBERRY CREAM MOULD.]
_Mode_.--Boil the milk, cream, and isinglass together for 1/4 hour, or
until the latter is melted, and strain it through a hair sieve into a
basin. Let it cool a little; then add to it sufficient raspberry jelly,
which, when melted, would make 1/3 pint, and stir well till the
ingredients are thoroughly mixed. If not sufficiently sweet, add a
little pounded sugar with the brandy; whisk the mixture well until
nearly cold, put it into a well-oiled mould, and set it in a cool place
till perfectly set. Raspberry jam may be substituted for the jelly, but
must be melted, and rubbed through a sieve, to free it from seeds: in
summer, the juice of the fresh fruit may be used, by slightly mashing it
with a wooden spoon, and sprinkling sugar over it; the juice that flows
from the fruit should then be used for mixing with the cream. If the
colour should not be very good, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be
added to improve its appearance. (_See_ coloured plate T1.)
_Time_.--1/4 hour to boil the cream and isinglass.
_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, and the best isinglass, 3s.
_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould.
_Seasonable_, with jelly, at any time.
_Note_.--Strawberry cream may be made in precisely the same manner,
substituting strawberry jam or jelly for the raspberry.
RICE BLANCMANGE.
1476. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of ground rice, 3 oz. of loaf sugar, 1 oz.
of fresh butter, 1 quart of milk, flavouring of lemon-peel, essence of
almonds or vanilla, or laurel-leaves.
_Mode_.--Mix the rice to a smooth batter with about 1/2 pint of the
milk, and the remainder put into a saucepan, with the sugar, butter, and
whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred; bring the milk to
the boiling-point, quickly stir in the rice, and let it boil for about
10 minutes, or until it comes easily away from the saucepan, keeping it
well stirred the whole time. Grease a mould with pure salad-oil; pour in
the rice, and let it get perfectly set, when it should turn out quite
easily; garnish it with jam, or pour round a compôte of any kind of
fruit, just before it is sent to table. This blancmange is better for
being made the day before it is wanted, as it then has time to become
firm. If laurel-leaves are used for flavouring, steep 3 of them in the
milk, and take them out before the rice is added: about 8 drops of
essence of almonds, or from 12 to 16 drops of essence of vanilla, would
be required to flavour the above proportion of milk.
_Time_.--From 10 to 15 minutes to boil the rice.
_Average cost_, 9d.
_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
RICE CROQUETTES.
1477. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 6 oz. of pounded
sugar, flavouring of vanilla, lemon-peel, or bitter almonds, egg and
bread crumbs, hot lard.
_Mode_.--Put the rice, milk, and sugar into a saucepan, and let the
former gradually swell over a gentle fire until all the milk is dried
up; and just before the rice is done, stir in a few drops of essence of
any of the above flavourings. Let the rice get cold; then form it into
small round balls, dip them into yolk of egg, sprinkle them with bread
crumbs, and fry them in boiling lard for about 10 minutes, turning them
about, that they may get equally browned. Drain the greasy moisture from
them, by placing them on a cloth in front of the fire for a minute or
two; pile them on a white d'oyley, and send them quickly to table. A
small piece of jam is sometimes introduced into the middle of each
croquette, which adds very much to the flavour of this favourite dish.
_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour to swell the rice; about 10 minutes to fry
the croquettes.
_Average cost_, 10d.
_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 croquettes.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
RICE FRITTERS.
1478. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 3 oz. of sugar, 1
oz. of fresh butter 6 oz. of orange marmalade, 4 eggs.
_Mode_.--Swell the rice in the milk, with the sugar and butter, over a
slow fire until it is perfectly tender, which will be in about 3/4 hour.
When the rice is done, strain away the milk, should there be any left,
and mix with it the marmalade and well-beaten eggs; stir the whole over
the fire until the eggs are set; then spread the mixture on a dish to
the thickness of about 1/2 inch, or rather thicker. When it is perfectly
cold, cut it into long strips, dip them in a batter the same as for
apple fritters, and fry them a nice brown. Dish them on a white d'oyley,
strew sifted sugar over, and serve quickly.
_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to swell the rice; from 7 to 10 minutes to fry
the fritters.
_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 fritters.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
RICE SNOWBALLS. (_A pretty dish for Juvenile Suppers_.)
1479. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, flavouring of
essence of almonds, sugar to taste, 1 pint of custard made by recipe No.
1423.
_Mode_.--Boil the rice in the milk, with sugar and a flavouring of
essence of almonds, until the former is tender, adding, if necessary, a
little more milk, should it dry away too much. When the rice is quite
soft, put it into teacups, or _small_ round jars, and let it remain
until cold; then turn the rice out on a deep glass dish, pour over a
custard made by recipe No. 1423, and, on the top of each ball place a
small piece of bright-coloured preserve or jelly. Lemon-peel or vanilla
may be boiled with the rice instead of the essence of almonds, when
either of these is preferred; but the flavouring of the custard must
correspond with that of the rice.
_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to swell the rice in the milk.
_Average cost_, with the custard, 1s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 children.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
RICE SOUFFLE.
1480. INGREDIENTS.--3 tablespoonfuls of ground rice, 1 pint of milk, 5
eggs, pounded sugar to taste, flavouring of lemon-rind, vanilla, coffee,
chocolate, or anything that may be preferred, a piece of butter the size
of a walnut.
_Mode_.--Mix the ground rice with 6 tablespoonfuls of the milk quite
smoothly, and put it into a saucepan with the remainder of the milk and
butter, and keep stirring it over the fire for about 1/4 hour, or until
the mixture thickens. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs,
beat the former in a basin, and stir to them the rice and sufficient
pounded sugar to sweeten the soufflé; but add this latter ingredient as
sparingly as possible, as, the less sugar there is used, the lighter
will be the soufflé. Now whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth
or snow; mix them with the other preparation, and pour the whole into a
soufflé-dish, and put it instantly into the oven; bake it about 1/2 hour
in a moderate oven; take it out, hold a salamander or hot shovel over
the top, sprinkle sifted sugar over it, and send the soufflé to table in
the dish it was baked in, either with a napkin pinned round, or inclosed
in a more ornamental dish. The excellence of this fashionable dish
entirely depends on the proper whisking of the whites of the eggs, the
manner of baking, and the expedition with which it is sent to table.
Soufflés should be served _instantly_ from the oven, or they will sink,
and be nothing more than an ordinary pudding.
_Time_.--About 1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, 1s.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
TO MAKE A SOUFFLE.
1481. INGREDIENTS.--3 heaped tablespoonfuls of potato-flour, rice-flour,
arrowroot, or tapioca, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, a piece of butter
the size of a walnut, sifted sugar to taste, 1/4 saltspoonful of salt
flavouring.
_Mode_.--Mix the potato-flour, or whichever one of the above ingredients
is used, with a little of the milk; put it into a saucepan, with the
remainder of the milk, the butter, salt, and sufficient pounded sugar to
sweeten the whole nicely. Stir these ingredients over the fire until the
mixture thickens; then take it off the fire, and let it cool a little.
Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, beat the latter, and
stir them into the soufflé batter. Now whisk the whites of the eggs to
the firmest possible froth, for on this depends the excellence of the
dish; stir them to the other ingredients, and add a few drops of essence
of any flavouring that may be preferred; such as vanilla, lemon, orange,
ginger, &c. &c. Pour the batter into a soufflé-dish, put it immediately
into the oven, and bake for about 1/2 hour; then take it out, put the
dish into another more ornamental one, such as is made for the purpose;
hold a salamander or hot shovel over the soufflé, strew it with sifted
sugar, and send it instantly to table. The secret of making a soufflé
well, is to have the eggs well whisked, but particularly the whites, the
oven not too hot, and to send it to table the moment it comes from the
oven. If the soufflé be ever so well made, and it is allowed to stand
before being sent to table, its appearance and goodness will be entirely
spoiled. Soufflés may be flavoured in various ways, but must be named
accordingly. Vanilla is one of the most delicate and recherché
flavourings that can be used for this very fashionable dish.
_Time_.--About 1/2 hour in the oven; 2 or 3 minutes to hold the
salamander over.
_Average cost_, 1s.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
SNOW EGGS, or OEUFS A LA NEIGE.
(_A very pretty Supper Dish_.)
1482. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 3/4 pint of milk, pounded sugar to taste,
flavouring of vanilla, lemon-rind, or orange-flower water.
_Mode_.--Put the milk into a saucepan with sufficient sugar to sweeten
it nicely, and the rind of 1/2 lemon. Let this steep by the side of the
fire for 1/2 hour, when take out the peel; separate the whites from the
yolks of the eggs, and whisk the former to a perfectly stiff froth, or
until there is no liquid remaining; bring the milk to the boiling-point,
and drop in the snow a tablespoonful at a time, and keep turning the
eggs until sufficiently cooked. Then place them on a glass dish, beat up
the yolks of the eggs, stir to them the milk, add a little more sugar,
and strain this mixture into a jug; place the jug in a saucepan of
boiling water, and stir it one way until the mixture thickens, but do
not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Pour this custard over the
eggs, when they should rise to the surface. They make an exceedingly
pretty addition to a supper, and should be put in a cold place after
being made. When they are flavoured with vanilla or orange-flower water,
it is not necessary to steep the milk. A few drops of the essence of
either may be poured in the milk just before the whites are poached. In
making the custard, a little more flavouring and sugar should always be
added.
_Time_.--About 2 minutes to poach the whites; 8 minutes to stir the
custard.
_Average cost_, 8d.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.
STONE CREAM OF TOUS LES MOIS.
1483. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of preserve, 1 pint of milk, 2 oz. of lump
sugar, 1 heaped tablespoonful of tous les mois, 3 drops of essence of
cloves, 3 drops of almond-flavouring.
_Mode_.--Place the preserve at the bottom of a glass dish; put the milk
into a lined saucepan, with the sugar, and make it boil. Mix to a smooth
batter the tous les mois, with a very little cold milk; stir it briskly
into the boiling milk, add the flavouring, and simmer for 2 minutes.
When rather cool, but before turning solid, pour the cream over the jam,
and ornament it with strips of red-currant jelly or preserved fruit.
_Time_.--2 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.
STRAWBERRY JELLY.
1484. INGREDIENTS.--Strawberries, pounded sugar; to every pint of juice
allow 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass.
_Mode_.--Pick the strawberries, put them into a pan, squeeze them well
with a wooden spoon, add sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten them
nicely, and let them remain for 1 hour, that the juice may be extracted;
then add 1/2 pint of water to every pint of juice. Strain the
strawberry-juice and water through a bag; measure it, and to every pint
allow 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass, melted and clarified in 1/4 pint of water.
Mix this with the juice; put the jelly into a mould, and set the mould
in ice. A little lemon-juice added to the strawberry-juice improves the
flavour of the jelly, if the fruit is very ripe; but it must be well
strained before it is put to the other ingredients, or it will make the
jelly muddy.
_Time_.--1 hour to draw the juice.
_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s.
_Sufficient_.--Allow 1-1/2 pint of jelly for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August.
SWISS CREAM.
1485. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of macaroons or 6 small sponge-cakes,
sherry, 1 pint of cream, 5 oz. of lump sugar, 2 large tablespoonfuls of
arrowroot, the rind of 1 lemon, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 3 tablespoonfuls
of milk.
_Mode_.--Lay the macaroons or sponge-cakes in a glass dish, and pour
over them as much sherry as will cover them, or sufficient to soak them
well. Put the cream into a lined saucepan, with the sugar and
lemon-rind, and let it remain by the side of the fire until the cream is
well flavoured, when take out the lemon-rind. Mix the arrowroot smoothly
with the cold milk; add this to the cream, and let it boil gently for
about 3 minutes, keeping it well stirred. Take it off the fire, stir
till nearly cold, when add the lemon-juice, and pour the whole over the
cakes. Garnish the cream with strips of angelica, or candied citron cut
thin, or bright-coloured jelly or preserve. This cream is exceedingly
delicious, flavoured with vanilla instead of lemon: when this flavouring
is used, the sherry may be omitted, and the mixture poured over the
_dry_ cakes.
_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to infuse the lemon-rind; 5 minutes to boil the
cream.
_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.
TO MAKE SYLLABUB.
1486. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of sherry or white wine, 1/2 grated nutmeg,
sugar to taste, 1-1/2 pint of milk.
_Mode_.--Put the wine into a bowl, with the grated nutmeg and plenty of
pounded sugar, and milk into it the above proportion of milk frothed up.
Clouted cream may be laid on the top, with pounded cinnamon or nutmeg
and sugar; and a little brandy may be added to the wine before the milk
is put in. In some counties, cider is substituted for the wine: when
this is used, brandy must always be added. Warm milk may be poured on
from a spouted jug or teapot; but it must be held very high.
_Average cost_, 2s.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.
TIPSY CAKE.
1487. INGREDIENTS.--1 moulded sponge-or Savoy-cake, sufficient sweet
wine or sherry to soak it, 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 2 oz. of sweet
almonds, 1 pint of rich custard.
[Illustration: TIPSY CAKE.]
_Mode_.--Procure a cake that is three or four days old,--either sponge,
Savoy, or rice answering for the purpose of a tipsy cake. Cut the bottom
of the cake level, to make it stand firm in the dish; make a small hole
in the centre, and pour in and over the cake sufficient sweet wine or
sherry, mixed with the above proportion of brandy, to soak it nicely.
When the cake is well soaked, blanch and cut the almonds into strips,
stick them all over the cake, and pour round it a good custard, made by
recipe No. 1423, allowing 8 eggs instead of 5 to the pint of milk. The
cakes are sometimes crumbled and soaked, and a whipped cream heaped over
them, the same as for trifles.
_Time_.--About 2 hours to soak the cake. _Average cost_, 4s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 1 dish. _Seasonable_ at any time.
ALMOND.--The almond-tree is a native of warmer climates than
Britain, and is indigenous to the northern parts of Africa and
Asia; but it is now commonly cultivated in Italy, Spain, and the
south of France. It is not usually grown in Britain, and the
fruit seldom ripens in this country: it is much admired for the
beauty of its blossoms. In the form of its leaves and blossoms
it strongly resembles the peach-tree, and is included in the
same genus by botanists; but the fruit, instead of presenting a
delicious pulp like the peach, shrivels up as it ripens, and
becomes only a tough coriaceous covering to the stone inclosing
the eatable kernel, which is surrounded by a thin bitter skin.
It flowers early in the spring, and produces fruit in August.
There are two sorts of almonds,--sweet and bitter; but they are
considered to be only varieties of the species; and though the
qualities of the kernels are very different, they are not
distinguishable by their appearance.
AN EASY WAY OF MAKING A TIPSY CAKE.
1488. INGREDIENTS.--12 stale small sponge-cakes, raisin wine, 1/2 lb. of
jam, 1 pint of custard No. 1423.
_Mode_.--Soak the sponge-cakes, which should be stale (on this account
they should be cheaper), in a little raisin wine; arrange them on a deep
glass dish in four layers, putting a layer of jam between each, and pour
round them a pint of custard, made by recipe No. 1423, decorating the
top with cut preserved fruit.
_Time_.--2 hours to soak the cakes. Average cost, 2s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 1 dish. _Seasonable_ at any time.
TO MAKE A TRIFLE.
1489. INGREDIENTS.--For the whip, 1 pint of cream, 3 oz. of pounded
sugar, the whites of 2 eggs, a small glass of sherry or raisin wine. For
the trifle, 1 pint of custard, made with 8 eggs to a pint of milk; 6
small sponge-cakes, or 6 slices of sponge-cake; 12 macaroons, 2 dozen
ratafias, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, the grated rind of 1 lemon, a layer of
raspberry or strawberry jam, 1/2 pint of sherry or sweet wine, 6
tablespoonfuls of brandy.
[Illustration: TRIFLE.]
_Mode_.--The whip to lay over the top of the trifle should be made the
day before it is required for table, as the flavour is better, and it is
much more solid than when prepared the same day. Put into a large bowl
the pounded sugar, the whites of the eggs, which should be beaten to a
stiff froth, a glass of sherry or sweet wine, and the cream. Whisk these
ingredients well in a cool place, and take off the froth with a skimmer
as fast as it rises, and put it on a sieve to drain; continue the
whisking till there is sufficient of the whip, which must be put away in
a cool place to drain. The next day, place the sponge-cakes, macaroons,
and ratafias at the bottom of a trifle-dish; pour over them 1/2 pint of
sherry or sweet wine, mixed with 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy, and, should
this proportion of wine not be found quite sufficient, add a little
more, as the cakes should be well soaked. Over the cakes put the grated
lemon-rind, the sweet almonds, blanched and cut into strips, and a layer
of raspberry or strawberry jam. Make a good custard by recipe No. 1423,
using 8 instead of 5 eggs to the pint of milk, and let this cool a
little; then pour it over the cakes, &c. The whip being made the day
previously, and the trifle prepared, there remains nothing to do now but
heap the whip lightly over the top: this should stand as high as
possible, and it may be garnished with strips of bright currant jelly,
crystallized sweetmeats, or flowers; the small coloured comfits are
sometimes used for the purpose of garnishing a trifle, but they are now
considered rather old-fashioned. (See coloured plate, V1.)
_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 5s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 1 trifle. _Seasonable_ at any time.
VANILLA CREAM.
1490. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, the yolks of 8 eggs, 6 oz. of sugar,
1 oz. of isinglass, flavouring to taste of essence of vanilla.
[Illustration: VANILLA-CREAM MOULD.]
_Mode_.--Put the milk and sugar into a saucepan, and let it get hot over
a slow fire; beat up the yolks of the eggs, to which add gradually the
sweetened milk; flavour the whole with essence of vanilla, put the
mixture into a jug, and place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water.
Stir the contents with a wooden spoon one way until the mixture
thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will be full of lumps. Take
it off the fire; stir in the isinglass, which should be previously
dissolved in about 1/4 pint of water, and boiled for 2 or 3 minutes;
pour the cream into an oiled mould, put it in a cool place to set, and
turn it out carefully on a dish. Instead of using the essence of
vanilla, a pod may be boiled in the milk instead, until the flavour is
well extracted. A pod, or a pod and a half, will be found sufficient for
the above proportion of ingredients.
_Time_.--About 10 minutes to stir the mixture.
_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.
VANILLE or VANILLA, is the fruit of the vanillier, a parasitical
herbaceous plant, which flourishes in Brazil, Mexico, and Peru.
The fruit is a long capsule, thick and fleshy. Certain species
of this fruit contain a pulp with a delicious perfume and
flavour. Vanilla is principally imported from Mexico. The
capsules for export are always picked at perfect maturity. The
essence is the form in which it is used generally and most
conveniently. Its properties are stimulating and exciting. It is
in daily use for ices, chocolates, and flavouring confections
generally.
VICTORIA SANDWICHES.
1491. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs; their weight in pounded sugar, butter, and
flour; 1/4 saltspoonful of salt, a layer of any kind of jam or
marmalade.
_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour and pounded
sugar; stir these ingredients well together, and add the eggs, which
should be previously thoroughly whisked. When the mixture has been well
beaten for about 10 minutes, butter a Yorkshire-pudding tin, pour in the
batter, and bake it in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Let it cool,
spread one half of the cake with a layer of nice preserve, place over it
the other half of the cake, press the pieces slightly together, and then
cut it into long finger-pieces; pile them in crossbars on a glass dish,
and serve.
_Time_.--20 minutes.
_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
WHIPPED CREAM, for putting on Trifles, serving in Glasses, &c.
1492. INGREDIENTS.--To every pint of cream allow 3 oz. of pounded sugar,
1 glass of sherry or any kind of sweet white wine, the rind of 1/2
lemon, the white of 1 egg.
[Illustration: PASTRY LEAF.]
_Mode_.--Rub the sugar on the lemon-rind, and pound it in a mortar until
quite fine, and beat up the white of the egg until quite stiff; put the
cream into a large bowl, with the sugar, wine, and beaten egg, and whip
it to a froth; as fast as the froth rises, take it off with a skimmer,
and put it on a sieve to drain, in a cool place. This should be made the
day before it is wanted, as the whip is then so much firmer. The cream
should be whipped in a cool place, and in summer, over ice, if it is
obtainable. A plain whipped cream may be served on a glass dish, and
garnished with strips of angelica, or pastry leaves, or pieces of
bright-coloured jelly: it makes a very pretty addition to the
supper-table.
_Time_.--About 1 hour to whip the cream.
_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 1s. 9d.
_Sufficient_ for 1 dish or 1 trifle.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
WHIPPED SYLLABUBS.
1493. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of cream, 1/4 pint of sherry, half that
quantity of brandy, the juice of 1/2 lemon, a little grated nutmeg, 3
oz. of pounded sugar, whipped cream the same as for trifle No. 1489.
_Mode_.--Mix all the ingredients together, put the syllabub into
glasses, and over the top of them heap a little whipped cream, made in
the same manner as for trifle No. 1489. Solid syllabub is made by
whisking or milling the mixture to a stiff froth, and putting it in the
glasses, without the whipped cream at the top.
_Average cost_, 1s. 8d.
_Sufficient_ to fill 8 or 9 glasses.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
THE CURE'S OMELET.
"Every one knows," says Brillat Savarin, in his "Physiology of Taste,"
"that for twenty years Madame Récamier was the most beautiful woman in
Paris. It is also well known that she was exceedingly charitable, and
took a great interest in every benevolent work. Wishing to consult the
Curé of ---- respecting the working of an institution, she went to his
house at five o'clock in the afternoon, and was much astonished at
finding him already at his dinner-table.
"Madame Récamier wished to retire, but the Curé would not hear of it. A
neat white cloth covered the table; some good old wine sparkled in a
crystal decanter; the porcelain was of the best; the plates had heaters
of boiling water beneath them; a neatly-costumed maid-servant was in
attendance. The repast was a compromise between frugality and luxury.
The crawfish-soup had just been removed, and there was on the table a
salmon-trout, an omelet, and a salad.
"'My dinner will tell you,' said the worthy Curé, with a smile, 'that it
is fast-day, according to our Church's regulations.' Madame Récamier and
her host attacked the trout, the sauce served with which betrayed a
skilful hand, the countenance of the Curé the while showing
satisfaction.
"And now they fell upon the omelet, which was round, sufficiently thick,
and cooked, so to speak, to a hair's-breadth.
"As the spoon entered the omelet, a thick rich juice issued from it,
pleasant to the eye as well as to the smell; the dish became full of it;
and our fair friend owns that, between the perfume and the sight, it
made her mouth water.
"'It is an _omelette au thon_' (that is to say, a tunny omelet), said
the Curé, noticing, with the greatest delight, the emotion of Madame
Récamier, 'and few people taste it without lavishing praises on it.'
"'It surprises me not at all,' returned the beauty; 'never has so
enticing an omelet met my gaze at any of our lay tables.'
"'My cook understands them well, I think.'
"'Yes,' added Madame, 'I never ate anything so delightful.'"
Then came the salad, which Savarin recommends to all who place
confidence in him. It refreshes without exciting; and he has a theory
that it makes people younger.
Amidst pleasant converse the dessert arrived. It consisted of three
apples, cheese, and a plate of preserves; and then upon a little round
table was served the Mocha coffee, for which France has been, and is, so
justly famous.
"'I never,' said the Curé, 'take spirits; I always offer liqueurs to my
guests but reserve the use of them, myself, to my old age, if it should
please Providence to grant me that.'
"Finally, the charming Madame Récamier took her leave, and told all her
friends of the delicious omelet which she had seen and partaken of."
And Brillat Savarin, in his capacity as the Layard of the concealed
treasures of Gastronomia, has succeeded in withdrawing from obscurity
the details of the preparation of which so much had been said, and which
he imagines to be as wholesome as it was agreeable.
Here follows the recipe:--
OMELETTE AU THON.
1494. Take, for 6 persons, the roes of 2 carp; [Footnote: An American
writer says he has followed this recipe, substituting pike, shad, &c.,
in the place of carp, and can recommend all these also, with a quiet
conscience. Any fish, indeed, may be used with success.] bleach them, by
putting them, for 5 minutes, in boiling water slightly salted. Take a
piece of fresh tunny about the size of a hen's egg, to which add a small
shalot already chopped; hash up together the roe and the tunny, so as to
mix them well, and throw the whole into a saucepan, with a sufficient
quantity of very good butter: whip it up until the butter is melted!
This constitutes the specialty of the omelet. Take a second piece of
butter, _à discrétion_, mix it with parsley and herbs, place it in a
long-shaped dish destined to receive the omelet; squeeze the juice of a
lemon over it, and place it on hot embers. Beat up 12 eggs (the fresher
the better); throw up the sauté of roe and tunny, stirring it so as to
mix all well together; then make your omelet in the usual manner,
endeavouring to turn it out long, thick, and soft. Spread it carefully
on the dish prepared for it, and serve at once. This dish ought to be
reserved for recherché déjeûners, or for assemblies where amateurs meet
who know how to eat well; washed down with a good old wine, it will work
wonders.
_Note_.--The roe and the tunny must be beaten up (sauté) without
allowing them to boil, to prevent their hardening, which would prevent
them mixing well with the eggs. Your dish should be hollowed towards the
centre, to allow the gravy to concentrate, that it may be helped with a
spoon. The dish ought to be slightly heated, otherwise the cold china
will extract all the heat from the omelet.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]