CHAPTER XXIX.

BAKED APPLE CUSTARD.

1389. INGREDIENTS.--1 dozen large apples, moist sugar to taste, 1 small

teacupful of cold water, the grated rind of one lemon, 1 pint of milk, 4

eggs, 2 oz. of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.--Peel, cut, and core the apples; put them into a lined saucepan

with the cold water, and as they heat, bruise them to a pulp; sweeten

with moist sugar, and add the grated lemon-rind. When cold, put the

fruit at the bottom of a pie-dish, and pour over it a custard, made with

the above proportion of milk, eggs, and sugar; grate a little nutmeg

over the top, place the dish in a moderate oven, and bake from 25 to 35

minutes. The above proportions will make rather a large dish.

_Time_.--25 to 35 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

BUTTERED APPLES (Sweet Entremets).

1390. INGREDIENTS.--Apple marmalade No. 1395, 6 or 7 good boiling

apples, 1/2 pint of water, 6 oz. of sugar, 2 oz. of butter, a little

apricot jam.

_Mode_.--Pare the apples, and take out the cores without dividing them;

boil up the sugar and water for a few minutes; then lay in the apples,

and simmer them very gently until tender, taking care not to let them

break. Have ready sufficient marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, and

flavoured with lemon, to cover the bottom of the dish; arrange the

apples on this with a piece of butter placed in each, and in between

them a few spoonfuls of apricot jam or marmalade; place the dish in the

oven for 10 minutes, then sprinkle over the top sifted sugar; either

brown it before the fire or with a salamander, and serve hot.

_Time_.--From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples very gently, 10

minutes in the oven.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets.

_Note_.--The syrup that the apples were boiled in should be saved for

another occasion.

FLANC OF APPLES, or APPLES IN A RAISED CRUST.

_(Sweet Entremets.)_

1391. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of short crust No. 1211 or 1212, 9

moderate-sized apples, the rind and juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 lb. of white

sugar, 3/4 pint of water, a few strips of candied citron.

_Mode_.--Make a short crust by either of the above recipes; roll it out

to the thickness of 1/2 inch, and butter an oval mould; line it with the

crust, and press it carefully all round the sides, to obtain the form of

the mould, but be particular not to break the paste. Pinch the part that

just rises above the mould with the paste-pincers, and fill the case

with flour; bake it for about 3/4 hour; then take it out of the oven,

remove the flour, put the case back in the oven for another 1/4 hour,

and do not allow it to get scorched. It is now ready for the apples,

which should be prepared in the following manner: peel, and take out the

cores with a small knife, or a cutter for the purpose, without dividing

the apples; put them into a small lined saucepan, just capable of

holding them, with sugar, water, lemon juice and rind, in the above

proportion. Let them simmer very gently until tender; then take out the

apples, let them cool, arrange them in the flanc or case, and boil down

the syrup until reduced to a thick jelly; pour it over the apples, and

garnish them with a few slices of candied citron.

1392. A MORE SIMPLE FLANC may be made by rolling out the paste, cutting

the bottom of a round or oval shape, and then a narrow strip for the

sides: these should be stuck on with the white of an egg, to the bottom

piece, and the flanc then filled with raw fruit, with sufficient sugar

to sweeten it nicely. It will not require so long baking as in a mould;

but the crust must be made everywhere of an equal thickness, and so

perfectly joined, that the juice does not escape. This dish may also be

served hot, and should be garnished in the same manner, or a little

melted apricot jam may be poured over the apples, which very much

improves their flavour.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour to bake the flanc from 30 to 40 minutes to

stew the apples very gently.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets or side-dish.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

APPLE FRITTERS.

1393. INGREDIENTS.--For the batter, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter,

1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk, apples, hot lard or clarified

beef-dripping.

_Mode_.--Break the eggs; separate the whites from the yolks, and beat

them separately. Put the flour into a basin, stir in the butter, which

should be melted to a cream; add the salt, and moisten with sufficient

warm milk to make it of a proper consistency, that is to say, a batter

that will drop from the spoon. Stir this well, rub down any lumps that

may be seen, and add the whites of the eggs, which have been previously

well whisked; beat up the batter for a few minutes, and it is ready for

use. Now peel and cut the apples into rather thick whole slices, without

dividing them, and stamp out the middle of each slice, where the core

is, with a cutter. Throw the slices into the batter; have ready a pan of

boiling lard or clarified dripping; take out the pieces of apple one by

one, put them into the hot lard, and fry a nice brown, turning

them--when required. When done, lay them on a piece of blotting-paper

before the fire, to absorb the greasy moisture; then dish on a white

d'oyley, piled one above the other; strew over them some pounded sugar,

and serve very hot. The flavour of the fritters would be very much

improved by soaking the pieces of apple in a little wine, mixed with

sugar and lemon-juice, for 3 or 4 hours before wanted for table; the

batter, also, is better for being mixed some hours before the fritters

are made.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes to fry them; 5 minutes to drain them.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

ICED APPLES, or APPLE HEDGEHOG.

1394. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 dozen good boiling apples, 1/2 lb. of sugar,

1/2 pint of water, the rind of 1/2 lemon minced very fine, the whites of

2 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar, a few sweet almonds.

_Mode_.--Peel and core a dozen of the apples without dividing them, and

stew them very gently in a lined saucepan with 1/2 lb. of sugar and 1/2

pint of water, and when tender, lift them carefully on to a dish. Have

ready the remainder of the apples pared, cored, and cut into thin

slices; put them into the same syrup with the lemon-peel, and boil

gently until they are reduced to a marmalade: they must be kept stirred,

to prevent them from burning. Cover the bottom of a dish with some of

the marmalade, and over that a layer of the stewed apples, in the

insides of which, and between each, place some of the marmalade; then

place another layer of apples, and fill up the cavities with marmalade

as before, forming the whole into a raised oval shape. Whip the whites

of the eggs to a stiff froth, mix with them the pounded sugar, and cover

the apples very smoothly all over with the icing; blanch and cut each

almond into 4 or 5 strips; place these strips at equal distances over

the icing sticking up; strew over a little rough pounded sugar, and

place the dish in a very slow oven, to colour the almonds, and for the

apples to get warm through. This entremets may also be served cold, and

makes a pretty supper-dish.

_Time_.--From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples.

_Average cost_, 1s. 9d. to 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

THICK APPLE JELLY OR MARMALADE, for Entremets or Dessert Dishes.

1395. INGREDIENTS.--Apples; to every lb. of pulp allow 3/4 lb. of sugar,

1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel.

[Illustration: APPLE JELLY STUCK WITH ALMONDS.]

_Mode_.--Peel, core, and boil the apples with only sufficient water to

prevent them from burning; beat them to a pulp, and to every lb. of pulp

allow the above proportion of sugar in lumps. Dip the lumps into water;

put these into a saucepan, and boil till the syrup is thick and can be

well skimmed; then add this syrup to the apple pulp, with the minced

lemon-peel, and stir it over a quick fire for about 20 minutes, or until

the apples cease to stick to the bottom of the pan. The jelly is then

done, and may be poured into moulds which have been previously dipped in

water, when it will turn out nicely for dessert or a side-dish; for the

latter a little custard should be poured round, and it should be

garnished with strips of citron or stuck with blanched almonds.

_Time_.--From 1/2 to 3/4 hour to reduce the apples to a pulp; 20 minutes

to boil after the sugar is added.

_Sufficient._--1-1/2 lb. of apples sufficient for a small mould.

_Seasonable_ from July to March; but is best in September, October or

November.

CLEAR APPLE JELLY.

1396. INGREDIENTS.--2 dozen apples, 1-1/2 pint of spring-water; to every

pint of juice allow 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 1/2 oz. of isinglass, the

rind of 1/2 lemon.

_Mode_.--Pare, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and boil them,

with the lemon-peel, until tender; then strain off the apples, and run

the juice through a jelly-bag; put the strained juice, with the sugar

and isinglass, which has been previously boiled in 1/2 pint of water,

into a lined saucepan or preserving-pan; boil all together for about 1/4

hour, and put the jelly into moulds. When this jelly is nice and clear,

and turned out well, it makes a pretty addition to the supper-table,

with a little custard or whipped cream round it: the addition of a

little lemon-juice improves the flavour, but it is apt to render the

jelly muddy and thick. If required to be kept any length of time, rather

a larger proportion of sugar must be used.

_Time_.--From 1 to 1-1/2 hour to boil the apples; 1/4 hour the jelly.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for a 1-1/2-pint mould.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

A PRETTY DISH OF APPLES AND RICE.

1397. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2

lemon, sugar to taste, 1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 8 apples, 1/4 lb. of

sugar, 1/4 pint of water, 1/2 pint of boiled custard No. 1423.

_Mode_.--Flavour the milk with lemon-rind, by boiling them together for

a few minutes; then take out the peel, and put in the rice, with

sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely, and boil gently until the rice is

quite soft; then let it cool. In the mean time pare, quarter, and core

the apples, and boil them until tender in a syrup made with sugar and

water in the above proportion; and, when soft, lift them out on a sieve

to drain. Now put a middling-sized gallipot in the centre of a dish; lay

the rice all round till the top of the gallipot is reached; smooth the

rice with the back of a spoon, and stick the apples into it in rows, one

row sloping to the right and the next to the left. Set it in the oven to

colour the apples; then, when required for table, remove the gallipot,

garnish the rice with preserved fruits, and pour in the middle

sufficient custard, made by recipe No. 1423, to be level with the top of

the rice, and serve hot.

_Time_.--From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples; 3/4 hour to simmer

the rice; 1/4 hour to bake.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

APPLES A LA PORTUGAISE.

1398. INGREDIENTS.--8 good boiling apples, 1/2 pint of water, 6 oz. of

sugar, a layer of apple marmalade No. 1395, 8 preserved cherries,

garnishing of apricot jam.

_Mode_.--Peel the apples, and, with a vegetable-cutter, push out the

cores; boil them in the above proportion of sugar and water, without

being too much done, and take care they do not break. Have ready a white

apple marmalade, made by recipe No. 1395; cover the bottom of the dish

with this, level it, and lay the apples in a sieve to drain, pile them

neatly on the marmalade, making them high in the centre, and place a

preserved cherry in the middle of each. Garnish with strips of candied

citron or apricot jam, and the dish is ready for table.

_Time_.--From 20 to SO minutes to stew the apples.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

APPLES IN RED JELLY.

(_A pretty Supper Dish_.)

1399. INGREDIENTS.--6 good-sized apples, 12 cloves, pounded sugar, 1

lemon, 2 teacupfuls of water, 1 tablespoonful of gelatine, a few drops

of prepared cochineal.

_Mode_.--Choose rather large apples; peel them and take out the cores,

either with a scoop or a small silver knife, and put into each apple 2

cloves and as much sifted sugar as they will hold. Place them, without

touching each other, in a large pie-dish; add more white sugar, the

juice of 1 lemon, and 2 teacupfuls of water. Bake in the oven, with a

dish over them, until they are done. Look at them frequently, and, as

each apple is cooked, place it in a glass dish. They must not be left in

the oven after they are done, or they will break, and so would spoil the

appearance of the dish. When the apples are neatly arranged in the dish

without touching each other, strain the liquor in which they have been

stewing, into a lined saucepan; add to it the rind of the lemon, and a

tablespoonful of gelatine which has been previously dissolved in cold

water, and, if not sweet, a little more sugar, and 6 cloves. Boil till

quite clear; colour with a few drops of prepared cochineal, and strain

the jelly through a double muslin into a jug; let it cool _a little_;

then pour it into the dish round the apples. When quite cold, garnish

the tops of the apples with a bright-coloured marmalade, a jelly, or the

white of an egg, beaten to a strong froth, with a little sifted sugar.

_Time_.--From 30 to 50 minutes to bake the apples.

_Average cost_, 1s., with the garnishing.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

APPLES AND RICE.

_(A Plain Dish.)_

1400. INGREDIENTS.--8 good sized apples, 3 oz. of butter, the rind of

1/2 lemon minced very fine, 6 oz. of rice, 1-1/2 pint of milk, sugar to

taste, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 6 tablespoonfuls of apricot

jam.

_Mode_.--Peel the apples, halve them, and take out the cores; put them

into a stewpan with the butter, and strew sufficient sifted sugar over

to sweeten them nicely, and add the minced lemon-peel. Stew the apples

very gently until tender, taking care they do not break. Boil the rice,

with the milk, sugar, and nutmeg, until soft, and, when thoroughly done,

dish it, piled high in the centre; arrange the apples on it, warm the

apricot jam, pour it over the whole, and serve hot.

_Time_.--About 30 minutes to stew the apples very gently; about 3/4 hour

to cook the rice.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

APPLE SNOW.

(_A pretty Supper Dish_.)

1401. INGREDIENTS.--10 good-sized apples, the whites of 10 eggs, the

rind of 1 lemon, 1/2 lb. of pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Peel, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and put them into

a saucepan with the lemon-peel and sufficient water to prevent them from

burning,--rather less than 1/2 pint. When they are tender, take out the

peel, beat them to a pulp, let them cool, and stir them to the whites of

the eggs, which should be previously beaten to a strong froth. Add the

sifted sugar, and continue the whisking until the mixture becomes quite

stiff; and either heap it on a glass dish, or serve it in small glasses.

The dish may be garnished with preserved barberries, or strips of

bright-coloured jelly; and a dish of custards should be served with it,

or a jug of cream.

_Time_.--From 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a moderate-sized glass dish.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

APPLE SOUFFLE.

1402. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2

lemon, sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs, the whites of 6, 1-1/2 oz.

of butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of apple marmalade No. 1395.

_Mode_.--Boil the milk with the lemon-peel until the former is well

flavoured; then strain it, put in the rice, and let it gradually swell

over a slow fire, adding sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely. Then

crush the rice to a smooth pulp with the back of a wooden spoon; line

the bottom and sides of a round cake-tin with it, and put it into the

oven to set; turn it out of the tin carefully, and be careful that the

border of rice is firm in every part. Mix with the marmalade the beaten

yolks of eggs and the butter, and stir these over the fire until the

mixture thickens. Take it off the fire; to this add the whites of the

eggs, which should be previously beaten to a strong froth; stir all

together, and put it into the rice border. Bake in a moderate oven for

about 1/2 hour, or until the soufflé rises very light. It should be

watched, and served instantly, or it will immediately fall after it is

taken from the oven.

_Time_.--1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

STEWED APPLES AND CUSTARD.

(_A pretty Dish for a Juvenile Supper_.)

1403. INGREDIENTS.--7 good-sized apples, the rind of 1/2 lemon or 4

cloves, 1/2 lb. of sugar, 3/4 pint of water, 1/2 pint of custard No.

1423.

_Mode_.--Pare and take out the cores of the apples, without dividing

them, and, if possible, leave the stalks on; boil the sugar and water

together for 10 minutes; then put in the apples with the lemon-rind or

cloves, whichever flavour may be preferred, and simmer gently until they

are tender, taking care not to let them break. Dish them neatly on a

glass dish, reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a few minutes,

let it cool a little; then pour it over the apples. Have ready quite 1/2

pint of custard made by recipe No. 1423; pour it round, but not over,

the apples when they are quite cold, and the dish is ready for table. A

few almonds blanched and cut into strips, and stuck in the apples, would

improve their appearance.--See coloured plate Q1.

_Time_.--From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ to fill a large glass dish.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

APPLE TRIFLE.

(_A Supper Dish_.)

1404. INGREDIENTS.--10 good-sized apples, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 6 oz.

of pounded sugar, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 eggs, whipped

cream.

_Mode_.--Peel, core, and cut the apples into thin slices, and put them

into a saucepan with 2 tablespoonfuls of water, the sugar, and minced

lemon-rind. Boil all together until quite tender, and pulp the apples

through a sieve; if they should not be quite sweet enough, add a little

more sugar, and put them at the bottom of the dish to form a thick

layer. Stir together the milk, cream, and eggs, with a little sugar,

over the fire, and let the mixture thicken, but do not allow it to reach

the boiling-point. When thick, take it off the fire; let it cool a

little, then pour it over the apples. Whip some cream with sugar,

lemon-peel, &c., the same as for other trifles; heap it high over the

custard, and the dish is ready for table. It may be garnished as fancy

dictates, with strips of bright apple jelly, slices of citron, &c.

_Time_.--From 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples; 10 minutes to stir

the custard over the fire.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized trifle.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

APRICOT CREAM.

1405. INGREDIENTS.--12 to 16 ripe apricots, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1-1/2 pint

of milk, the yolks of 8 eggs, 1 oz. of isinglass.

_Mode_.--Divide the apricots, take out the stones, and boil them in a

syrup made with 1/4 lb. of sugar and 1/4 pint of water, until they form

a thin marmalade, which rub through a sieve. Boil the milk with the

other 1/4 lb. of sugar, let it cool a little, then mix with it the yolks

of eggs which have been previously well beaten; put this mixture into a

jug, place this jug in boiling water, and stir it one way over the fire

until it thickens; but on no account let it boil. Strain through a

sieve, add the isinglass, previously boiled with a small quantity of

water, and keep stirring it till nearly cold; then mix the cream with

the apricots; stir well, put it into an oiled mould, and, if convenient,

set it on ice; at any rate, in a very cool place. It should turn out on

the dish without any difficulty.

_Time_.--From 20 to 30 minutes to boil the apricots.

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould.

_Seasonable_ in August, September, and October.

_Note_.--In winter-time, when fresh apricots are not obtainable, a

little jam may be substituted for them.

FLANC OF APRICOTS, or Compote of Apricots in a Raised Crust.

_(Sweet Entremets.)_

1406. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of short crust No. 1212, from 9 to 12

good-sized apricots, 3/4 pint of water, 1/2 lb. of sugar.

_Mode_.--Make a short crust by recipe No. 1212, and line a mould with it

as directed in recipe No. 1391. Boil the sugar and water together for 10

minutes; halve the apricots, take out the stones, and simmer them in the

syrup until tender; watch them carefully, and take them up the moment

they are done, for fear they break. Arrange them neatly in the flanc or

case; boil the syrup until reduced to a jelly, pour it over the fruit,

and serve either hot or cold. Greengages, plums of all kinds, peaches,

&c., may be done in the same manner, as also currants, raspberries,

gooseberries, strawberries, &c.; but with the last-named fruits, a

little currant-juice added to them will be found an improvement.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour to bake the flanc, about 10 minutes to

simmer the apricots.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 entremets or side-dish.

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September.

ARROWROOT BLANC-MANGE.

(_An inexpensive Supper Dish_.)

1407. INGREDIENTS.--4 heaped tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, 1-1/2 pint of

milk, 3 laurel-leaves or the rind of 1/2 lemon, sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Mix to a smooth batter the arrowroot with 1/2 pint of the milk;

put the other pint on the fire, with laurel-leaves or lemon-peel,

whichever may be preferred, and let the milk steep until it is well

flavoured. Then strain the milk, and add it, boiling, to the mixed

arrowroot; sweeten it with sifted sugar, and let it boil, stirring it

all the time, till it thickens sufficiently to come from the saucepan.

Grease a mould with pure salad-oil, pour in the blanc-mange, and when

quite set, turn it out on a dish, and pour round it a compôte of any

kind of fruit, or garnish it with jam. A tablespoonful of brandy,

stirred in just before the blanc-mange is moulded, very much improves

the flavour of this sweet dish.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 6d. without the garnishing.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

BLANC-MANGE.

(_A Supper Dish_.)

1408. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of new milk, 1-1/4 oz. of isinglass, the rind

of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 10 bitter almonds, 1/2 oz. of sweet

almonds, 1 pint of cream.

[Illustration: BLANC-MANGE MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a saucepan, with the isinglass, lemon-rind,

and sugar, and let these ingredients stand by the side of the fire until

the milk is well flavoured; add the almonds, which should be blanched

and pounded in a mortar to a paste, and let the milk just boil up;

strain it through a fine sieve or muslin into a jug, add the cream, and

stir the mixture occasionally until nearly cold. Let it stand for a few

minutes, then pour it into the mould, which should be previously oiled

with the purest salad-oil, or dipped in cold water. There will be a

sediment at the bottom of the jug, which must not be poured into the

mould, as, when turned out, it would very much disfigure the appearance

of the blanc-mange. This blanc-mange may be made very much richer by

using 1-1/2 pint of cream, and melting the isinglass in 1/2 pint of

boiling water. The flavour may also be very much varied by adding

bay-leaves, laurel-leaves, or essence of vanilla, instead of the

lemon-rind and almonds. Noyeau, Maraschino, Curaçoa, or any favourite

liqueur, added in small proportions, very much enhances the flavour of

this always favourite dish. In turning it out, just loosen the edges of

the blanc-mange from the mould, place a dish on it, and turn it quickly

over; it should come out easily, and the blanc-mange have a smooth

glossy appearance when the mould is oiled, which it frequently has not

when it is only dipped in water. It may be garnished as fancy dictates.

_Time_.--About 1-1/2 hour to steep the lemon-rind and almonds in the

milk.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

CHEAP BLANC-MANGE.

1409. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 quart of milk, 1-1/2 oz. of

isinglass, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 4 laurel-leaves.

[Illustration: BLANC-MANGE.]

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a lined saucepan, and boil gently

until the isinglass is dissolved; taste it occasionally, to ascertain

when it is sufficiently flavoured with the laurel-leaves; then take them

out, and keep stirring the mixture over the fire for about 10 minutes.

Strain it through a fine sieve into a jug, and, when nearly cold, pour

it into a well-oiled mould, omitting the sediment at the bottom. Turn it

out carefully on a dish, and garnish with preserves, bright jelly, or a

compote of fruit.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

BREAD-AND-BUTTER FRITTERS.

1410. INGREDIENTS.--Batter, 8 slices of bread and butter, 3 or 4

tablespoonfuls of jam.

_Mode_.--Make a batter, the same as for apple fritters No. 1393; cut

some slices of bread and butter, not very thick; spread half of them

with any jam that may he preferred, and cover with the other slices;

slightly press them together, and cut them out in square, long, or round

pieces. Dip them in the batter, and fry in boiling lard for about 10

minutes; drain them before the fire on a piece of blotting-paper or

cloth. Dish them, sprinkle over sifted sugar, and serve.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

TO MAKE THE STOCK FOR JELLY, AND TO CLARIFY IT.

1411. INGREDIENTS.--2 calf's feet, 6 pints of water.

[Illustration: JELLY-MOULD.]

[Illustration: JELLY-BAG.]

_Mode_.--The stock for jellies should always be made the day before it

is required for use, as the liquor has time to cool, and the fat can be

so much more easily and effectually removed when thoroughly set. Procure

from the butcher's 2 nice calf's feet: scald them, to take off the hair;

slit them in two, remove the fat from between the claws, and wash the

feet well in warm water; put them into a stewpan, with the above

proportion of cold water, bring it gradually to boil, and remove every

particle of scum as it rises. When it is well skimmed, boil it very

gently for 6 or 7 hours, or until the liquor is reduced rather more than

half; then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and put it in a cool

place to set. As the liquor is strained, measure it, to ascertain the

proportion for the jelly, allowing something for the sediment and fat at

the top. To clarify it, carefully remove all the fat from the top, pour

over a little warm water, to wash away any that may remain, and wipe the

jelly with a clean cloth; remove the jelly from the sediment, put it

into a saucepan, and, supposing the quantity to be a quart, add to it 6

oz. of loaf sugar, the shells and well-whisked whites of 5 eggs, and

stir these ingredients together cold; set the saucepan on the fire, but

_do not stir the jelly after it begins to warm_. Let it boil about 10

minutes after it rises to a head, then throw in a teacupful of cold

water; let it boil 5 minutes longer, then take the saucepan off, cover

it closely, and let it remain 1/2 hour near the fire. Dip the jelly-bag

into hot water, wring it out quite dry, and fasten it on to a stand or

the back of a chair, which must be placed near the fire, to prevent the

jelly from setting before it has run through the bag. Place a basin

underneath to receive the jelly; then pour it into the bag, and should

it not be clear the first time, run it through the bag again. This stock

is the foundation of all _really good_ jellies, which may be varied in

innumerable ways, by colouring and flavouring with liqueurs, and by

moulding it with fresh and preserved fruits. To insure the jelly being

firm when turned out, 1/2 oz. of isinglass clarified might be added to

the above proportion of stock. Substitutes for calf's feet are now

frequently used in making jellies, which lessen the expense and trouble

in preparing this favourite dish; isinglass and gelatine being two of

the principal materials employed; but, although they may _look_ as

nicely as jellies made from good stock, they are never so delicate,

having very often an unpleasant flavour, somewhat resembling glue,

particularly when made with gelatine.

_Time_.--About 6 hours to boil the feet for the stock; to clarify

it,--1/4 hour to boil, 1/2 hour to stand in the saucepan covered.

_Average cost_.--Calf's feet may be purchased for 6d. each when veal is

in full season, but more expensive when it is scarce.

_Sufficient_.--2 calf's feet should make 1 quart of stock.

_Seasonable_ from March to October, but may be had all the year.

HOW TO MAKE A JELLY-BAG.--The very stout flannel called

double-mill, used for ironing-blankets, is the best material for

a jelly-bag: those of home manufacture are the only ones to be

relied on for thoroughly clearing the jelly. Care should be

taken that the seam of the bag be stitched twice, to secure it

against unequal filtration. The most convenient mode of using

the big is to tie it upon a hoop the exact size of the outside

of its mouth; and, to do this, strings should be sewn round it

at equal distances. The jelly-bag may, of coarse, be made any

size; but one of twelve or fourteen inches deep, and seven or

eight across the mouth, will be sufficient for ordinary use. The

form of a jelly-bag is the fool's cap.

COW-HEEL STOCK FOR JELLIES.

(More Economical than Calf's Feet.)

1412. INGREDIENTS.--2 cow-heels, 3 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Procure 2 heels that have only been scalded, and not boiled;

split them in two, and remove the fat between the claws; wash them well

in warm water, and put them into a saucepan with the above proportion of

cold water; bring it gradually to boil, remove all the scum as it rises,

and simmer the heels gently from 7 to 8 hours, or until the liquor is

reduced one-half; then strain it into a basin, measuring the quantity,

and put it in a cool place. Clarify it in the same manner as calf's-feet

stock No. 1411, using, with the other ingredients, about 1/2 oz. of

isinglass to each quart. This stock should be made the day before it is

required for use. Two dozen shank-bones of mutton, boiled for 6 or 7

hours, yield a quart of strong firm stock. They should be put on in 2

quarts of water, which should be reduced one-half. Make this also the

day before it is required.

_Time_.--7 to 8 hours to boil the cow-heels, 6 to 7 hours to boil the

shank-bones.

_Average cost_, from 4d. to 6d. each.

_Sufficient_.--2 cow-heels should make 3 pints of stock.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

ISINGLASS OR GELATINE JELLY.

(_Substitutes for Calf's Feet_.)

1413. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of isinglass or gelatine, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Put the isinglass or gelatine into a saucepan with the above

proportion of cold water; bring it quickly to boil, and let it boil very

fast, until the liquor is reduced one-half. Carefully remove the scum as

it rises, then strain it through a jelly-bag, and it will be ready for

use. If not required very clear, it may be merely strained through a

fine sieve, instead of being run through a bag. Rather more than 1/2 oz.

of isinglass is about the proper quantity to use for a quart of strong

calf's-feet stock, and rather more than 2 oz. for the same quantity of

fruit juice. As isinglass varies so much in quality and strength, it is

difficult to give the exact proportions. The larger the mould, the

stiffer should be the jelly; and where there is no ice, more isinglass

must be used than if the mixture were frozen. This forms a stock for all

kinds of jellies, which may be flavoured in many ways.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour.

_Sufficient_, with wine, syrup, fruit, &c., to fill two moderate-sized

moulds.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--The above, when boiled, should be perfectly clear, and may be

mixed warm with wine, flavourings, fruits, &c., and then run through the

bag.

ISINGLASS.--The best isinglass is brought from Russia; some of

an inferior kind is brought from North and South America and the

East Indies: the several varieties may be had from the wholesale

dealers in isinglass in London. In choosing isinglass for

domestic use, select that which is whitest, has no unpleasant

odour, and which dissolves most readily in water. The inferior

kinds are used for fining beer, and similar purposes. Isinglass

is much adulterated: to test its purity, take a few threads of

the substance, drop some into boiling water, some into cold

water, and some into vinegar. In the boiling water the isinglass

will dissolve, in cold water it will become white and "cloudy,"

and in vinegar it will swell and become jelly-like. If the

isinglass is adulterated with gelatine (that is to say, the

commoner sorts of gelatine,--for isinglass is classed amongst

gelatines, of all which varieties it is the very purest and

best), in boiling water the gelatine will not so completely

dissolve as the isinglass; in cold water it becomes clear and

jelly-like; and in vinegar it will harden.

HOW TO MOULD BOTTLED JELLIES.

1414. Uncork the bottle; place it in a saucepan of hot water until the

jelly is reduced to a liquid state; taste it, to ascertain whether it is

sufficiently flavoured, and if not, add a little wine. Pour the jelly

into moulds which have been soaked in water; let it set, and turn it out

by placing the mould in hot water for a minute; then wipe the outside,

put a dish on the top, and turn it over quickly. The jelly should then

slip easily away from the mould, and be quite firm. It may be garnished

as taste dictates.

TO CLARIFY SYRUP FOR JELLIES.

1415. INGREDIENTS.--To every quart of water allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar;

the white of 1 egg.

_Mode_.--Put the sugar and water into a stewpan; set it on the fire,

and, when the sugar is dissolved, add the white of the egg, whipped up

with a little water. Whisk the whole well together, and simmer very

gently until it has thrown up all the scum. Take this off as it rises,

strain the syrup through a fine sieve or cloth into a basin, and keep it

for use.

CALF'S-FEET JELLY.

1416. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of calf's-feet stock No. 1411, 1/2 lb. of

sugar, 1/2 pint of sherry, 1 glass of brandy, the shells and whites of 5

eggs, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, 1/2 oz. of isinglass.

_Mode_.--Prepare the stock as directed in recipe No. 1411, taking care

to leave the sediment, and to remove all the fat from the surface. Put

it into a saucepan, cold, without clarifying it; add the remaining

ingredients, and stir them well together before the saucepan is placed

on the fire. Then simmer the mixture gently for 1/4 hour, _but do not

stir it after it begins to warm_. Throw in a teacupful of cold water,

boil for another 5 minutes, and keep the saucepan covered by the side of

the fire for about 1/2 hour, but do not let it boil again. In simmering,

the head or scum may be carefully removed as it rises; but particular

attention must be given to the jelly, that it be not stirred in the

slightest degree after it is heated. The isinglass should be added when

the jelly begins to boil: this assists to clear it, and makes it firmer

for turning out. Wring out a jelly-bag in hot water; fasten it on to a

stand, or the back of a chair; place it near the fire with a basin

underneath it, and run the jelly through it. Should it not be perfectly

clear the first time, repeat the process until the desired brilliancy is

obtained. Soak the moulds in water, drain them for half a second, pour

in the jelly, and put it in a cool place to set. If ice is at hand,

surround the moulds with it, and the jelly will set sooner, and be

firmer when turned out. In summer it is necessary to have ice in which

to put the moulds, or the cook will be, very likely, disappointed, by

her jellies being in too liquid a state to turn out properly, unless a

great deal of isinglass is used. When wanted for table, dip the moulds

in hot water for a minute, wipe the outside with a cloth, lay a dish on

the top of the mould, turn it quickly over, and the jelly should slip

out easily. It is sometimes served broken into square lumps, and piled

high in glasses. Earthenware moulds are preferable to those of pewter or

tin, for red jellies, the colour and transparency of the composition

being often spoiled by using the latter.

[Illustration: JELLY-MOULD.]

To make this jelly more economically, raisin wine may be substituted for

the sherry and brandy, and the stock made from cow-heels, instead of

calf's feet.

_Time_.--20 minutes to simmer the jelly, 1/2 hour to stand covered.

_Average cost_, reckoning the feet at 6d. each, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill two 1-1/2-pint moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--As lemon-juice, unless carefully strained, is liable to make

the jelly muddy, see that it is clear before it is added to the other

ingredients. Omit the brandy when the flavour is objected to.

SHERRY.--There are several kinds of sherry, as pale and brown, and there

are various degrees of each. Sherry is, in general, of an amber-colour,

and, when good, has a fine aromatic odour, with something of the

agreeable bitterness of the peach kernel. When new, it is harsh and

fiery, and requires to be mellowed in the wood for four or five years.

Sherry has of late got much into fashion in England, from the idea that

it is more free from acid than other wines; but some careful experiments

on wines do not fully confirm this opinion.

CANNELONS, or FRIED PUFFS.

(_Sweet Entremets_.)

1417. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of puff-paste No. 1205; apricot, or any kind

of preserve that may be preferred; hot lard.

_Mode_.--Cannelons which are made of puff-paste rolled very thin, with

jam inclosed, and cut out in long narrow rolls or puffs, make a very

pretty and elegant dish. Make some good puff-paste, by recipe No. 1205;

roll it out very thin, and cut it into pieces of an equal size, about 2

inches wide and 8 inches long; place upon each piece a spoonful of jam,

wet the edges with the white of egg, and fold the paste over _twice;_

slightly press the edges together, that the jam may not escape in the

frying; and when all are prepared, fry them in boiling lard until of a

nice brown, letting them remain by the side of the fire after they are

coloured, that the paste may be thoroughly done. Drain them before the

fire, dish on a d'oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and serve.

These cannelons are very delicious made with fresh instead of preserved

fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, or currants: it should be laid

in the paste, plenty of pounded sugar sprinkled over, and folded and

fried in the same manner as stated above.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_,--1/2 lb. of paste for a moderate-sized dish of cannelons.

_Seasonable_, with jam, at any time.

CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.

1418. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of rather stale bread 1/2 inch thick,

clarified butter, apple marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, with about 2

dozen apples, 1/2 glass of sherry.

[Illustration: CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.]

_Mode_.--Cut a slice of bread the same shape as the bottom of a plain

round mould, which has been well buttered, and a few strips the height

of the mould, and about 1-1/2 inch wide; dip the bread in clarified

butter (or spread it with cold butter, if not wanted quite so rich);

place the round piece at the bottom of the mould, and set the narrow

strips up the sides of it, overlapping each other a little, that no

juice from the apples may escape, and that they may hold firmly to the

mould. Brush the _interior_ over with white of egg (this will assist to

make the case firmer); fill it with apple marmalade made by recipe No.

1395, with the addition of a little sherry, and cover them with a round

piece of bread, also brushed over with egg, the same as the bottom;

slightly press the bread down, to make it adhere to the other pieces;

put a plate on the top, and bake the _charlotte_ in a brisk oven, of a

light colour. Turn it out on the dish, strew sifted sugar over the top,

and pour round it a little melted apricot jam.

_Time_.--40 to 50 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March.

AN EASY METHOD OF MAKING A CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.

1419. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of

powdered sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of baking-powder, 1 egg, milk, 1 glass

of raisin-wine, apple marmalade No. 1395, 1/4 pint of cream, 2

dessertspoonfuls of pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Make a cake with the flour, butter, sugar, and baking-powder;

moisten with the egg and sufficient milk to make it the proper

consistency, and bake it in a round tin. When cold, scoop out the

middle, leaving a good thickness all round the sides, to prevent them

breaking; take some of the scooped-out pieces, which should be trimmed

into neat slices; lay them in the cake, and pour over sufficient

raisin-wine, with the addition of a little brandy, if approved, to soak

them well. Have ready some apple marmalade, made by recipe No. 1395;

place a layer of this over the soaked cake, then a layer of cake and a

layer of apples; whip the cream to a froth, mixing with it the sugar and

lemon-juice; pile it on the top of the _charlotte_, and garnish it with

pieces of clear apple jelly. This dish is served cold, but may be eaten

hot, by omitting the cream, and merely garnishing the top with bright

jelly just before it is sent to table.

_Time_.--1 hour to bake the cake. _Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March.

A VERY SIMPLE APPLE CHARLOTTE.

1420. INGREDIENTS.--9 slices of bread and butter, about 6 good-sized

apples, 1 tablespoonful of minced lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of juice,

moist sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Butter a pie-dish; place a layer of bread and butter, without

the crust, at the bottom; then a layer of apples, pared, cored, and cut

into thin slices; sprinkle over these a portion of the lemon-peel and

juice, and sweeten with moist sugar. Place another layer of bread and

butter, and then one of apples, proceeding in this manner until the dish

is full; then cover it up with the peel of the apples, to preserve the

top from browning or burning; bake in a brisk oven for rather more than

3/4 hour; torn the charlotte on a dish, sprinkle sifted sugar over, and

serve.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March.

CHARLOTTE RUSSE.

(_An Elegant Sweet Entremets_.)

1421. INGREDIENTS.--About 18 Savoy biscuits, 3/4 pint of cream,

flavouring of vanilla, liqueurs, or wine, 1 tablespoonful of pounded

sugar, 1/2 oz. of isinglass.

_Mode_.--Procure about 18 Savoy biscuits, or ladies'-fingers, as they

are sometimes called; brush the edges of them with the white of an egg,

and line the bottom of a plain round mould, placing them like a star or

rosette. Stand them upright all round the edge; carefully put them so

closely together that the white of the egg connects them firmly, and

place this case in the oven for about 5 minutes, just to dry the egg.

Whisk the cream to a stiff froth, with the sugar, flavouring, and melted

isinglass; fill the charlotte with it, cover with a slice of sponge-cake

cut in the shape of the mould; place it in ice, where let it remain till

ready for table; then turn it on a dish, remove the mould, and serve. 1

tablespoonful of liqueur of any kind, or 4 tablespoonfuls of wine, would

nicely flavour the above proportion of cream. For arranging the biscuits

in the mould, cut them to the shape required, so that they fit in

nicely, and level them with the mould at the top, that, when turned out,

there may be something firm to rest upon. Great care and attention is

required in the turning out of this dish, that the cream does not burst

the case; and the edges of the biscuits must have the smallest quantity

of egg brushed over them, or it would stick to the mould, and so prevent

the charlotte from coming away properly.

_Time_.--5 minutes in the oven.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 1 charlotte. _Seasonable_ at any time.

CREAM A LA VALOIS.

1422. INGREDIENTS.--4 sponge-cakes, jam, 3/4 pint of cream, sugar to

taste, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 glass of sherry, 1-1/4 oz. of

isinglass.

_Mode_.--Cut the sponge-cakes into thin slices; place two together, with

preserve between them, and pour over them a small quantity of sherry

mixed with a little brandy. Sweeten and flavour the cream with the

lemon-juice and sherry; add the isinglass, which should be dissolved in

a little water, and beat up the cream well. Place a little in an oiled

mould; arrange the pieces of cake in the cream; then fill the mould with

the remainder; let it cool, and turn it out on a dish. By oiling the

mould, the cream will have a much smoother appearance, and will turn out

more easily than when merely dipped in cold water.

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a 1-1/2 pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

BOILED CUSTARDS.

1423. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, 3 oz. of loaf sugar, 3

laurel-leaves, or the rind of 4 lemon, or a few drops of essence of

vanilla, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.

[Illustration: CUSTARDS IN GLASSES.]

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a lined saucepan, with the sugar, and

whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred (the lemon-rind

flavours custards most deliciously), and let the milk steep by the side

of the fire until it is well flavoured. Bring it to the point of

boiling, then strain it into a basin; whisk the eggs well, and, when the

milk has cooled a little, stir in the eggs, and _strain_ this mixture

into a jug. Place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire;

keep stirring the custard _one way_ until it thickens; but on no account

allow it to reach the boiling-point, as it will instantly curdle and be

full of lumps. Take it off the fire, stir in the brandy, and, when this

is well mixed with the custard, pour it into glasses, which should be

rather more than three-parts full; grate a little nutmeg over the top,

and the dish is ready for table. To make custards look and eat better,

ducks' eggs should be used, when obtainable; they add very much to the

flavour and richness, and so many are not required as of the ordinary

eggs, 4 ducks' eggs to the pint of milk making a delicious custard. When

desired extremely rich and good, cream should be substituted for the

milk, and double the quantity of eggs used, to those mentioned, omitting

the whites.

_Time_. 1/2 hour to infuse the lemon-rind, about 10 minutes to stir the

custard. _Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 8 custard-glasses. _Seasonable_ at any time.

GINGER APPLES.

(_A pretty Supper or Dessert Dish_.)

1424. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of whole ginger, 1/4 pint of whiskey, 3

lbs. of apples, 2 lbs. of white sugar, the juice of 2 lemons.

_Mode_.--Bruise the ginger, put it into a small jar, pour over

sufficient whiskey to cover it, and let it remain for 3 days; then cut

the apples into thin slices, after paring and coring them; add the sugar

and the lemon-juice, which should he strained; and simmer all together

_very gently_ until the apples are transparent, but not broken. Serve

cold, and garnish the dish with slices of candied lemon-peel or

preserved ginger.

_Time_.--3 days to soak the ginger; about 3/4 hour to simmer the apples

very gently.

_Average cost_, 2s, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 dishes. _Seasonable_ from July to March.

FRENCH PANCAKES.

1425. INGREDIENTS.--2 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of sifted sugar, 2

oz. of flour, 1/2 pint of new milk.

_Mode_.--Beat the eggs thoroughly, and put them into a basin with the

butter, which should be beaten to a cream; stir in the sugar and flour,

and when these ingredients are well mixed, add the milk; keep stirring

and beating the mixture for a few minutes; put it on buttered plates,

and bake in a quick oven for 20 minutes. Serve with a cut lemon and

sifted sugar, or pile the pancakes high on a dish, with a layer of

preserve or marmalade between each.

_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

DUTCH FLUMMERY.

1426. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, the rind and juice of 1

lemon, 1 pint of water, 4 eggs, 1 pint of sherry, Madeira, or

raisin-wine; sifted sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Put the water, isinglass, and lemon-rind into a lined saucepan,

and simmer gently until the isinglass is dissolved; strain this into a

basin, stir in the eggs, which should be well beaten, the lemon-juice,

which should be strained, and the wine; sweeten to taste with pounded

sugar, mix all well together, pour it into a jug, set this jug in a

saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and keep stirring it one way

until it thickens; but _take care that it does not boil_. Strain it into

a mould that has been oiled or laid in water for a short time, and put

it in a cool place to set. A tablespoonful of brandy stirred in just

before it is poured into the mould, improves the flavour of this dish:

it is better if made the day before it is required for table.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to simmer the isinglass; about 1/4 hour to stir the

mixture over the fire.

_Average cost_, 4s. 6d., if made with sherry; less with raisin-wine.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

PALE SHERRIES are made from the same grapes as brown. The latter

are coloured by an addition of some cheap must, or wine which

has been boiled till it has acquired a deep-brown tint. Pale

sherries were, some time ago, preferred in England, being

supposed most pure; but the brown are preferred by many people.

The inferior sherries exported to England are often mixed with a

cheap and light wine called Moguer, and are strengthened in the

making by brandy; but too frequently they are adulterated by the

London dealers.

CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE.

1427. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, 1

teaspoonful of flour, 3 oz. of the best chocolate.

_Mode_.--Break the eggs, separating the whites from the yolks, and put

them into different basins; add to the yolks the sugar, flour, and

chocolate, which should be very finely grated, and stir these

ingredients for 5 minutes. Then well whisk the whites of the eggs in the

other basin, until they are stiff, and, when firm, mix lightly with the

yolks, till the whole forms a smooth and light substance; butter a round

cake-tin, put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20

minutes. Pin a white napkin round the tin, strew sifted sugar over the

top of the soufflé, and send it immediately to table. The proper

appearance of this dish depends entirely on the expedition with which it

is served, and some cooks, to preserve its lightness, hold a salamander

over the soufflé until it is placed on the table. If allowed to stand

after it comes from the oven, it will be entirely spoiled, as it falls

almost immediately.

_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized soufflé. _Seasonable_ at any time.

DARIOLES A LA VANILLE.

(_Sweet Entremets_.)

1428. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 oz. of flour,

3 oz. of pounded sugar, 6 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, puff-paste, flavouring

of essence of vanilla.

_Mode_.--Mix the flour to a smooth batter, with the milk; stir in the

cream, sugar, the eggs, which should be well whisked, and the butter,

which should be beaten to a cream. Put in some essence of vanilla, drop

by drop, until the mixture is well flavoured; line some dariole-moulds

with puff-paste, three-parts fill them with the batter, and bake in a

good oven from 25 to 35 minutes. Turn them out of the moulds on a dish,

without breaking them; strew over sifted sugar, and serve. The

flavouring of the darioles may be varied by substituting lemon,

cinnamon, or almonds, for the vanilla.

_Time_.--25 to 35 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 6 or 7 dariole-moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time.

CURRANT FRITTERS.

1429. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 4 eggs,

3 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice, 3 tablespoonfuls of currants, sugar to

taste, a very little grated nutmeg, hot lard or clarified dripping.

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a basin with the flour, which should

previously be rubbed to a smooth batter with a little cold milk; stir

these ingredients together; add the well-whisked eggs, the rice,

currants, sugar, and nutmeg. Beat the mixture for a few minutes, and, if

not sufficiently thick, add a little more boiled rice; drop it, in small

quantities, into a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping; fry the

fritters a nice brown, and, when done, drain them on a piece of

blotting-paper, before the fire. Pile them on a white d'oyley, strew

over sifted sugar, and serve them very hot. Send a cut lemon to table

with them.

_Time_.--From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

CHOCOLATE CREAM.

1430. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of grated chocolate, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1-1/2

pint of cream, 1/2 oz. of clarified isinglass, the yolks of 6 eggs.

[Illustration: CREAM-MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Beat the yolks of the eggs well; put them into a basin with the

grated chocolate, the sugar, and 1 pint of the cream; stir these

ingredients well together, pour them into a jug, and set this jug in a

saucepan of boiling water; stir it one way until the mixture thickens,

but _do not allow it to boil_, or it will curdle. Strain the cream

through a sieve into a basin; stir in the isinglass and the other 1/2

pint of cream, which should be well whipped; mix all well together, and

pour it into a mould which has been previously oiled with the purest

salad-oil, and, if at hand, set it in ice until wanted for table.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes to stir the mixture over the fire.

_Average cost_, 4s. 6d, with cream at 1s. per pint.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

GENEVA WAFERS.

1431. INGREDIENTS.--2 eggs, 3 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of flour, 3 oz. of

pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Well whisk the eggs; put them into a basin, and stir to them

the butter, which should be beaten to a cream; add the flour and sifted

sugar gradually, and then mix all well together. Butter a baking-sheet,

and drop on it a teaspoonful of the mixture at a time, leaving a space

between each. Bake in a cool oven; watch the pieces of paste, and, when

half done, roll them up like wafers, and put in a small wedge of bread

or piece of wood, to keep them in shape. Return them to the oven until

crisp. Before serving, remove the bread, put a spoonful of preserve in

the widest end, and fill up with whipped cream. This is a very pretty

and ornamental dish for the supper-table, and is very nice and very

easily made.

_Time_.--Altogether 20 to 25 minutes.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the preserve and cream, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for a nice-sized dish. _Seasonable_ at any time.

GINGER CREAM.

1432. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream, 3 oz. of

preserved ginger, 2 dessertspoonfuls of syrup, sifted sugar to taste, 1

oz. of isinglass.

_Mode_.--Slice the ginger finely; put it into a basin with the syrup,

the well-beaten yolks of eggs, and the cream; mix these ingredients well

together, and stir them over the fire for about 10 minutes, or until the

mixture thickens; then take it off the fire, whisk till nearly cold,

sweeten to taste, add the isinglass, which should be melted and

strained, and serve the cream in a glass dish. It may be garnished with

slices of preserved ginger or candied citron.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes to stir the cream over the fire.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for a good-sized dish. _Seasonable_ at any time.

PRESERVED GINGER comes to us from the West Indies. It is made by

scalding the roots when they are green and full of sap, then

peeling them in cold water, and putting them into jars, with a

rich syrup; in which state we receive them. It should be chosen

of a bright-yellow colour, with a little transparency: what is

dark-coloured, fibrous, and stringy, is not good. Ginger roots,

fit for preserving, and in size equal to West Indian, have been

produced in the Royal Agricultural Garden in Edinburgh.

TO MAKE GOOSEBERRY FOOL.

1433. INGREDIENTS.--Green gooseberries; to every pint of pulp add 1 pint

of milk, or 1/2 pint of cream and 1/2 pint of milk; sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut the tops and tails off the gooseberries; put them into a

jar, with 2 tablespoonfuls of water and a little good moist sugar; set

this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil until the fruit

is soft enough to mash. When done enough, beat it to a pulp, work this

pulp through a colander, and stir to every pint the above proportion of

milk, or equal quantities of milk and cream. Ascertain if the mixture is

sweet enough, and put in plenty of sugar, or it will not be eatable; and

in mixing the milk and gooseberries, add the former very gradually to

these: serve in a glass dish, or in small glasses. This, although a very

old-fashioned and homely dish, is, when well made, very delicious, and,

if properly sweetened, a very suitable preparation for children.

_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per pint, with milk.

_Sufficient_.--A pint of milk and a pint of gooseberry pulp for 5 or 6

children.

_Seasonable_ in May and June.

GOOSEBERRY TRIFLE.

1434. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of gooseberries, sugar to taste, 1 pint of

custard No. 1423, a plateful of whipped cream.

_Mode_.--Put the gooseberries into a jar, with sufficient moist sugar to

sweeten them, and boil them until reduced to a pulp. Put this pulp at

the bottom of a trifle-dish; pour over it a pint of custard made by

recipe No. 1423, and, when cold, cover with whipped cream. The cream

should be whipped the day before it is wanted for table, as it will then

be so much firmer and more solid. The dish may be garnished as fancy

dictates.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to boil the gooseberries.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 trifle. _Seasonable_ in May and June.

INDIAN FRITTERS.

1435. INGREDIENTS.--3 tablespoonfuls of flour, boiling water, the yolks

of 4 eggs, the whites of 2, hot lard or clarified dripping, jam.

_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin, and pour over it sufficient

_boiling_ water to make it into a stiff paste, taking care to stir and

beat it well, to prevent it getting lumpy. Leave it a little time to

cool, and then break into it (_without beating them at first_) the yolks

of 4 eggs and the whites of 2, and stir and beat all well together. Have

ready some boiling lard or butter; drop a dessertspoonful of batter in

at a time, and fry the fritters of a light brown. They should rise so

much as to be almost like balls. Serve on a dish, with a spoonful of

preserve or marmalade dropped in between each fritter. This is an

excellent dish for a hasty addition to dinner, if a guest unexpectedly

arrives, it being so easily and quickly made, and it is always a great

favourite.

_Time_.--From 5 to 8 minutes to fry the fritters.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the jam, 5d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

INDIAN TRIFLE.

1436. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2 large lemon, sugar

to taste, 5 heaped tablespoonfuls of rice-flour, 1 oz. of sweet almonds,

1/2 pint of custard.

_Mode_.--Boil the milk and lemon-rind together until the former is well

flavoured; take out the lemon-rind and stir in the rice-flour, which

should first be moistened with cold milk, and add sufficient loaf sugar

to sweeten it nicely. Boil gently for about 5 minutes, and keep the

mixture stirred; take it off the fire, let it cool _a little_, and pour

it into a glass dish. When cold, cut the rice out in the form of a star,

or any other shape that may be preferred; take out the spare rice, and

fill the space with boiled custard. Blanch and cut the almonds into

strips; stick them over the trifle, and garnish it with pieces of

brightly-coloured jelly, or preserved fruits, or candied citron.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to simmer the milk, 5 minutes after the rice is added.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 1 trifle.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: THE CITRON.]

THE CITRON.--The citron belongs to the same species as the

lemon, being considered only as a variety, the distinction

between them not being very great. It is larger, and is less

succulent, but more acid: with a little artificial heat, the

citron comes to as great perfection in England as in Spain and

Italy. The fruit is oblong and about five or six inches in

length. The tree is thorny. The juice forms an excellent

lemonade with sugar and water; its uses in punch, negus, and in

medicine, are well known. The rind is very thick, and, when

candied with sugar, forms an excellent sweetmeat. There are

several varieties cultivated in England, one of which is termed

the Forbidden Fruit.

ITALIAN CREAM.

1437. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 4 pint of cream, sugar to taste, 1

oz. of isinglass, 1 lemon, the yolks of 4 eggs.

_Mode_.--Put the cream and milk into a saucepan, with sugar to sweeten,

and the lemon-rind. Boil until the milk is well flavoured then strain it

into a basin, and add the beaten yolks of eggs. Put this mixture into a

jug; place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and

stir the contents until they thicken, but do not allow them to boil.

Take the cream off the fire, stir in the lemon-juice and isinglass,

which should be melted, and whip well; fill a mould, place it in ice if

at hand, and, when set, turn it out on a dish, and garnish as taste may

dictate. The mixture may be whipped and drained, and then put into small

glasses, when this mode of serving is preferred.

_Time_.--From 5 to 8 minutes to stir the mixture in the jug.

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

THE HIDDEN MOUNTAIN.

(_A pretty Supper Dish_.)

1438. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, a few slices of citron, sugar to taste, 1/4

pint of cream, a layer of any kind of jam.

_Mode_.--Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately; then mix them

and beat well again, adding a few thin slices of citron, the cream, and

sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten it nicely. When the mixture is well

beaten, put it into a buttered pan, and fry the same as a pancake; but

it should be three times the thickness of an ordinary pancake. Cover it

with jam, and garnish with slices of citron and holly-leaves. This dish

is served cold.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes to fry the mixture.

_Average cost_, with the jam, 1s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

JAUNEMANGE.

1439. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of isinglass, 1 pint of water, 1/2 pint of

white wine, the rind and juice of 1 large lemon, sugar to taste, the

yolks of 6 eggs.

_Mode_.--Put the isinglass, water, and lemon-rind into a saucepan, and

boil gently until the former is dissolved; then add the strained

lemon-juice, the wine, and sufficient white sugar to sweeten the whole

nicely. Boil for 2 or 3 minutes, strain the mixture into a jug, and add

the yolks of the eggs, which should be well beaten; place the jug in a

saucepan of boiling water; keep stirring the mixture _one way_ until it

thickens, _but do not allow it to boil_; then take it off the fire, and

keep stirring until nearly cold. Pour it into a mould, omitting the

sediment at the bottom of the jug, and let it remain until quite firm.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to boil the isinglass and water; about 10 minutes to

stir the mixture in the jug.

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

JELLY MOULDED WITH FRESH FRUIT, or MACEDOINE DE FRUITS.

1440. INGREDIENTS.--Rather more than 1-1/2 pint of jelly, a few nice

strawberries, or red or white currants, or raspberries, or any fresh

fruit that may be in season.

_Mode_.--Have ready the above proportion of jelly, which must be very

clear and rather sweet, the raw fruit requiring an additional quantity

of sugar. Select ripe, nice-looking fruit; pick off the stalks, unless

currants are used, when they are laid in the jelly as they come from the

tree. Begin by putting a little jelly at the bottom of the mould, which

must harden; then arrange the fruit round the sides of the mould,

recollecting; that _it will be reversed when turned out;_ then pour in

some more jelly to make the fruit adhere, and, when that layer is set,

put another row of fruit and jelly until the mould is full. If

convenient, put it in ice until required for table, then wring a cloth

in boiling water, wrap it round the mould for a minute, and turn the

jelly carefully out. Peaches, apricots, plums, apples, &c., are better

for being boiled in a little clear syrup before they are laid in the

jelly; strawberries, raspberries, grapes, cherries, and currants are put

in raw. In winter, when fresh fruits are not obtainable, a very pretty

jelly may be made with preserved fruits or brandy cherries: these, in a

bright and clear jelly, have a very pretty effect; of course, unless the

jelly be _very clear_, the beauty of the dish will be spoiled. It may be

garnished with the same fruit as is laid in the jelly; for instance, an

open jelly with strawberries might have, piled in the centre, a few of

the same fruit prettily arranged, or a little whipped cream might be

substituted for the fruit.

[Illustration: JELLY MOULDED WITH CHERRIES.]

_Time_.--One layer of jelly should remain 2 hours in a very cool place,

before another layer is added. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_, with fruit, to fill a quart mould.

_Seasonable_, with fresh fruit, from June to October; with dried, at any

time.

JELLY OF TWO COLOURS.

1441. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of calf's-feet jelly No. 1416, a few

drops of prepared cochineal.

[Illustration: JELLY OF TWO COLOURS.]

_Mode_.--Make 1-1/2 pint of jelly by recipe No. 1416, or, if wished more

economical, of clarified syrup and gelatine, flavouring it in any way

that may be preferred. Colour one-half of the jelly with a few drops of

prepared cochineal, and the other half leave as pale as possible. Have

ready a mould well wetted in every part; pour in a small quantity of the

red jelly, and let this set; when quite firm, pour on it the same

quantity of the pale jelly, and let this set; then proceed in this

manner until the mould is full, always taking care to let one jelly set

before the other is poured in, or the colours would run one into the

other. When turned out, the jelly should have a striped appearance. For

variety, half the mould may be filled at once with one of the jellies,

and, when firm, filled up with the other: this, also, has a very pretty

effect, and is more expeditiously prepared than when the jelly is poured

in small quantities into the mould. Blancmange and red jelly, or

blancmange and raspberry cream, moulded in the above manner, look very

well. The layers of blancmange and jelly should be about an inch in

depth, and each layer should be perfectly hardened before another is

added. Half a mould of blancmange and half a mould of jelly are

frequently served in the same manner. A few pretty dishes may be made,

in this way, of jellies or blancmanges left from the preceding day, by

melting them separately in a jug placed in a saucepan of boiling water,

and then moulding them by the foregoing directions. (See coloured plate

S1.)

_Time_.--3/4 hour to make the jelly.

_Average cost_, with calf's-feet jelly, 2s.; with gelatine and syrup,

more economical.

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2 pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--In making the jelly, use for flavouring a very pale sherry, or

the colour will be too dark to contrast nicely with the red jelly.

LEMON BLANCMANGE.

1442. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of milk, the yolks of 4 eggs, 3 oz. of

ground rice, 6 oz. of pounded sugar, 1-1/2 oz. of fresh butter, the rind

of 1 lemon, the juice of 2, 1/2 oz. of gelatine.

[Illustration: BLANCMANGE MOULD.]

The Book of Household Management · 第 35 / 52 章