BAKED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).
856. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of cold roast veal, a few slices of bacon, 1
pint of bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of good veal gravy, 1/2 teaspoonful of
minced lemon-peel, 1 blade of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste, 4
eggs.
_Mode_.--Mince finely the veal and bacon; add the bread crumbs, gravy,
and seasoning, and stir these ingredients well together. Beat up the
eggs thoroughly; add these, mix the whole well together, put into a
dish, and bake from 3/4 to 1 hour. When liked, a little good gravy may
be served in a tureen as an accompaniment.
_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
ROAST BREAST OF VEAL.
[Illustration: BREAST OF VEAL.]
857. INGREDIENTS.--Veal; a little flour.
_Mode_.--Wash the veal, well wipe it, and dredge it with flour; put it
down to a bright fire, not too near, as it should not be scorched. Baste
it plentifully until done; dish it, pour over the meat some good melted
butter, and send to table with it a piece of boiled bacon and a cut
lemon.
_Time_.--From 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
_Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
STEWED BREAST OF VEAL AND PEAS.
858. INGREDIENTS.--Breast of veal, 2 oz. of butter, a bunch of savoury
herbs, including parsley; 2 blades of pounded mace, 2 cloves, 5 or 6
young onions, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 6 allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful of
pepper, 1 teaspoonful of salt, thickening of butter and flour, 2
tablespoonfuls of sherry, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 1
tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup,
green peas.
_Mode_.--Cut the breast in half, after removing the bone underneath, and
divide the meat into convenient-sized pieces. Put the butter into a
frying-pan, lay in the pieces of veal, and fry until of a nice brown
colour. Now place these in a stewpan with the herbs, mace, cloves,
onions, lemon-peel, allspice, and seasoning; pour over them just
sufficient boiling water to cover the meat; well close the lid, and let
the whole simmer very gently for about 2 hours. Strain off as much gravy
as is required, thicken it with butter and flour, add the remaining
ingredients, skim well, let it simmer for about 10 minutes, then pour it
over the meat. Have ready some green peas, boiled separately; sprinkle
these over the veal, and serve. It may be garnished with forcemeat
balls, or rashers of bacon curled and fried. Instead of cutting up the
meat, many persons prefer it dressed whole;--in that case it should be
half-roasted before the water, &c. are put to it.
_Time_.--2-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 8-1/2d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
BREEDING OF CALVES.--The forwarding of calves to maturity,
whether intended to be reared for stock, or brought to an early
market as veal, is always a subject of great importance, and
requires a considerable amount of intelligence in the selection
of the best course, to adopt for either end. When meant to be
reared as stock, the breeding should be so arranged that the cow
shall calve about the middle of May. As our subject, however,
has more immediate reference to the calf as _meat_ than as
_stock_, we shall confine our remarks to the mode of procedure
adopted in the former case; and here, the first process adopted
is that of weaning; which consists in separating the calf
_entirely_ from the cow, but, at the same time, rearing it on
the mother's milk. As the business of the dairy would be
suspended if every cow were allowed to rear its young, and
butter, cheese, and cream become _desiderata_,--things to be
desired, but not possessed, a system of economical husbandry
becomes necessary, so as to retain our dairy produce, and yet,
for some weeks at least, nourish the calf on its mother's milk,
but without allowing the animal to draw that supply for itself:
this, with the proper substituted food on which to rear the
young animal, is called weaning.
VEAL CAKE (a Convenient Dish for a Picnic).
859. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of cold
ham, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, a little
pepper, good gravy.
_Mode_.--Cut off all the brown outside from the veal, and cut the eggs
into slices. Procure a pretty mould; lay veal, ham, eggs, and parsley in
layers, with a little pepper between each, and when the mould is full,
get some _strong_ stock, and fill up the shape. Bake for 1/2 hour, and
when cold, turn it out.
_Time_.--1/2 hour.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
BOILED CALF'S FEET AND PARSLEY AND BUTTER.
860. INGREDIENTS.--2 calf's feet, 2 slices of bacon, 2 oz. of butter, 2
tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, salt and whole pepper to taste, 1 onion,
a bunch of savoury herbs, 4 cloves, 1 blade of mace, water, parsley and
butter No. 493.
_Mode_.--Procure 2 white calf's feet; bone them as far as the first
joint, and put them into warm water to soak for 2 hours. Then put the
bacon, butter, lemon-juice, onion, herbs, spices, and seasoning into a
stewpan; lay in the feet, and pour in just sufficient water to cover the
whole. Stew gently for about 3 hours; take out the feet, dish them, and
cover with parsley and butter, made by recipe No. 493. The liquor they
were boiled in should be strained and put by in a clean basin for use:
it will be found very good as an addition to gravies, &c. &c.
_Time_.--Rather more than 3 hours.
_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. each. _Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
WHEN A CALF SHOULD BE KILLED.--The age at which a calf ought to
be killed should not be under four weeks: before that time the
flesh is certainly not wholesome, wanting firmness, due
development of muscular fibre, and those animal juices on which
the flavour and nutritive properties of the flesh depend,
whatever the unhealthy palate of epicures may deem to the
contrary. In France, a law exists to prevent the slaughtering of
calves under _six weeks_ of age. The calf is considered in prime
condition at ten weeks, when he will weigh from sixteen to
eighteen stone, and sometimes even twenty.
FRICASSEED CALF'S FEET.
861. INGREDIENTS.--A set of calf's feet; for the batter allow for each
egg 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of bread crumbs, hot lard
or clarified dripping, pepper and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--If the feet are purchased uncleaned, dip them into warm water
repeatedly, and scrape off the hair, first one foot and then the other,
until the skin looks perfectly clean, a saucepan of water being kept by
the fire until they are finished. After washing and soaking in cold
water, boil them in just sufficient water to cover them, until the bones
come easily away. Then pick them out, and after straining the liquor
into a clean vessel, put the meat into a pie-dish until the next day.
Now cut it down in slices about 1/2 inch thick, lay on them a stiff
batter made of egg, flour, and bread crumbs in the above proportion;
season with pepper and salt, and plunge them into a pan of boiling lard.
Fry the slices a nice brown, dry them before the fire for a minute or
two, dish them on a napkin, and garnish with tufts of parsley. This
should be eaten with melted butter, mustard, and vinegar. Be careful to
have the lard boiling to set the batter, or the pieces of feet will run
about the pan. The liquor they were boiled in should be saved, and will
be found useful for enriching gravies, making jellies, &e. &e.
_Time_.--About 3 hours to stew the feet, 10 or 15 minutes to fry them.
_Average cost_, in full season, 9d. each.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
_Note_.--This dish can be highly recommended to delicate persons.
COLOUR OF VEAL.--As whiteness of flesh is considered a great
advantage in veal, butchers, in the selection of their calves,
are in the habit of examining the inside of its mouth, and
noting the colour of the calf's eyes; alleging that, from the
signs they there see, they can prognosticate whether the veal
will be white or florid.
COLLARED CALF'S HEAD.
862. INGREDIENTS.--A calf's head, 4 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, 4
blades of pounded mace, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, white pepper
to taste, a few thick slices of ham, the yolks of 6 eggs boiled hard.
_Mode_.--Scald the head for a few minutes; take it out of the water, and
with a blunt knife scrape off all the hair. Clean it nicely, divide the
head and remove the brains. Boil it tender enough to take out the bones,
which will be in about 2 hours. When the head is boned, flatten it on
the table, sprinkle over it a thick layer of parsley, then a layer of
ham, and then the yolks of the eggs cut into thin rings and put a
seasoning of pounded mace, nutmeg, and white pepper between each layer;
roll the head up in a cloth, and tie it up as tightly as possible. Boil
it for 4 hours, and when it is taken out of the pot, place a heavy
weight on the top, the same as for other collars. Let it remain till
cold; then remove the cloth and binding, and it will be ready to serve.
_Time_.--Altogether 6 hours. _Average cost_, 5s. to 7s. each.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
FEEDING A CALF.--The amount of milk necessary for a calf for
some time, will be about four quarts a day, though, after the
first fortnight, that quantity should be gradually increased,
according to its development of body, when, if fed exclusively
on milk, as much as three gallons a day will be requisite for
the due health and requirements of the animal. If the weather
is fine and genial, it should be turned into an orchard or small
paddock for a few hours each day, to give it an opportunity to
acquire a relish for the fresh pasture, which, by the tenth or
twelfth week, it will begin to nibble and enjoy. After a certain
time, the quantity of milk may be diminished, and its place
supplied by water thickened with meal. Hay-tea and linseed-jelly
are also highly nutritious substances, and may be used either as
adjuncts or substitutes.
FRICASSEED CALF'S HEAD (an Entree).
863. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a boiled calf's head, 1-1/2 pint of
the liquor in which the head was boiled, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1
onion minced, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and white pepper to taste,
thickening of butter and flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, forcemeat balls.
_Mode_.--Remove all the bones from the head, and cut the meat into nice
square pieces. Put 1-1/2 pint of the liquor it was boiled in into a
saucepan, with mace, onion, herbs, and seasoning in the above
proportion; let this simmer gently for 3/4 hour, then strain it and put
in the meat. When quite hot through, thicken the gravy with a little
butter rolled in flour, and, just before dishing the fricassee, put in
the beaten yolks of eggs and lemon-juice; but be particular, after these
two latter ingredients are added, that the sauce does not boil, or it
will curdle. Garnish with forcemeat balls and curled slices of broiled
bacon. To insure the sauce being smooth, it is a good plan to dish the
meat first, and then to add the eggs to the gravy: when these are set,
the sauce may be poured over the meat.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1-1/4 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.
CALF'S HEAD a la Maitre d'Hotel.
864. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold calf's head, rather more than
1/2 pint of Maitre d'hôtel sauce No. 466.
_Mode_.--Make the sauce by recipe No. 466, and have it sufficiently
thick that it may nicely cover the meat; remove the bones from the head,
and cut the meat into neat slices. When the sauce is ready, lay in the
meat; let it _gradually_ warm through, and, after it boils up, let it
simmer very gently for 5 minutes, and serve.
_Time_.--Rather more than 1-1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 1s. 2d.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
THE CALF IN AMERICA.--In America, the calf is left with the
mother for three or four days, when it is removed, and at once
fed on barley and oats ground together and made into a gruel, 1
quart of the meal being boiled for half an hour in 12 quarts of
water. One quart of this certainly nutritious gruel, is to be
given, lukewarm, morning and evening. In ten days, a bundle of
soft hay is put beside the calf, which he soon begins to eat,
and, at the same time, some of the dry meal is placed in his
manger for him to lick. This process, gradually increasing the
quantity of gruel twice a day, is continued for two months, till
the calf is fit to go to grass, and, as it is said, with the
best possible success. But, in this country, the mode pointed
out in No. 862 has received the sanction of the best experience.
CURRIED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).
865. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast veal, 4 onions, 2 apples
sliced, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2
pint of broth or water, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
_Mode_.--Slice the onions and apples, and fry them in a little butter;
then take them out, cut the meat into neat cutlets, and fry these of a
pale brown; add the curry-powder and flour, put in the onion, apples,
and a little broth or water, and stew gently till quite tender; add the
lemon-juice, and serve with an edging of boiled rice. The curry may be
ornamented with pickles, capsicums, and gherkins arranged prettily on
the top.
_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
VEAL CUTLETS (an Entree).
866. INGREDIENTS.--About 3 lbs. of the prime part of the leg of veal,
egg and bread crumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, salt and
popper to taste, a small piece of butter.
[Illustration: VEAL CUTLETS.]
_Mode_.--Have the veal cut into slices about 3/4 of an inch in
thickness, and, if not cut perfectly even, level the meat with a
cutlet-bat or rolling-pin. Shape and trim the cutlets, and brush them
over with egg. Sprinkle with bread crumbs, with which have been mixed
minced herbs and a seasoning of pepper and salt, and press the crumbs
down. Fry them of a delicate brown in fresh lard or butter, and be
careful not to burn them. They should be very thoroughly done, but not
dry. If the cutlets be thick, keep the pan covered for a few minutes at
a good distance from the fire, after they have acquired a good colour:
by this means, the meat will be done through. Lay the cutlets in a dish,
keep them hot, and make a gravy in the pan as follows: Dredge in a
little flour, add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, brown it, then
pour as much boiling water as is required over it, season with pepper
and salt, add a little lemon-juice, give one boil, and pour it over the
cutlets. They should be garnished with slices of broiled bacon, and a
few forcemeat balls will be found a very excellent addition to this
dish.
_Time_.--For cutlets of a moderate thickness, about 12 minutes; if very
thick, allow more time.
_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
_Note_.--Veal cutlets may be merely floured and fried of a nice brown;
the gravy and garnishing should be the same as in the preceding recipe.
They may also be cut from the loin or neck, as shown in the engraving.
BROILED VEAL CUTLETS a l'Italienne (an Entree).
867. INGREDIENTS.--Neck of veal, salt and pepper to taste, the yolk of 1
egg, bread crumbs, 1/2 pint of Italian sauce No. 453.
_Mode_.--Cut the veal into cutlets, flatten and trim them nicely; powder
over them a little salt and pepper; brush them over with the yolk of an
egg, dip them into bread crumbs, then into clarified butter, and,
afterwards, in the bread crumbs again; broil or fry them over a clear
fire, that they may acquire a good brown colour. Arrange them in the
dish alternately with rashers of broiled ham, and pour the sauce, made
by recipe No. 453, in the middle.
_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes, according to the thickness of the cutlets.
_Average cost_, 10d. per lb.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
THE CALF'S-HEAD CLUB.--When the restoration of Charles II. took
the strait waistcoat off the minds and morose religion of the
Commonwealth period, and gave a loose rein to the
long-compressed spirits of the people, there still remained a
large section of society wedded to the former state of things.
The elders of this party retired from public sight, where,
unoffended by the reigning saturnalia, they might dream in
seclusion over their departed Utopia. The young bloods of this
school, however, who were compelled to mingle in the world, yet
detesting the politics which had become the fashion, adopted a
novel expedient to keep alive their republican sentiments, and
mark their contempt of the reigning family. They accordingly
met, in considerable numbers, at some convenient inn, on the
30th of January in each year,--the anniversary of Charles's
death, and dined together off a feast prepared from _calves'
heads_, dressed in every possible variety of way, and with an
abundance of wine drank toasts of defiance and hatred to the
house of Stuart, and glory to the memory of old Holl Cromwell;
and having lighted a large bonfire in the yard, the club of fast
young Puritans, with their white handkerchiefs stained _red_ in
wine, and one of the party in a mask, bearing an axe, followed
by the chairman, carrying a _calf's head_ pinned up in a napkin,
marched in mock procession to the bonfire, into which, with
great shouts and uproar, they flung the enveloped head. This odd
custom was continued for some time, and even down to the early
part of this century it was customary for men of republican
politics always to dine off calf's head on the 30th of January.
VEAL CUTLETS a la Maintenon (an Entree).
868. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 lbs. of veal cutlets, egg and bread crumbs, 2
tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, salt and pepper to taste, a
little grated nutmeg.
_Mode_.--Cut the cutlets about 3/4 inch in thickness, flatten them, and
brush them over with the yolk of an egg; dip them into bread crumbs and
minced herbs, season with pepper and salt and grated nutmeg, and fold
each cutlet in a piece of buttered paper. Broil them, and send them to
table with melted butter or a good gravy.
_Time_.--From 15 to 18 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
VEAL A LA BOURGEOISE.
(_Excellent_.)
869. INGREDIENTS.--2 to 3 lbs. of the loin or neck of veal, 10 or 12
young carrots, a bunch of green onions, 2 slices of lean bacon, 2 blades
of pounded mace, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, a
few new potatoes, 1 pint of green peas.
_Mode_.--Cut the veal into cutlets, trim them, and put the trimmings
into a stewpan with a little butter; lay in the cutlets and fry them a
nice brown colour on both sides. Add the bacon, carrots, onions, spice,
herbs, and seasoning; pour in about a pint of boiling water, and stew
gently for 2 hours on a very slow fire. When done, skim off the fat,
take out the herbs, and flavour the gravy with a little tomato sauce and
ketchup. Have ready the peas and potatoes, boiled _separately_; put them
with the veal, and serve.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 9d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from June to August with peas;--rather earlier when these
are omitted.
SCOTCH COLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery).
870. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast veal, a little butter,
flour, 1/2 pint of water, 1 onion, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1
tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1/2 teaspoonful of finely-minced
lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom
ketchup.
_Mode_.--Cut the veal the same thickness as for cutlets, rather larger
than a crown-piece; flour the meat well, and fry a light brown in
butter; dredge again with flour, and add 1/2 pint of water, pouring it
in by degrees; set it on the fire, and when it boils, add the onion and
mace, and let it simmer very gently about 3/4 hour; flavour the gravy
with lemon-juice, peel, wine, and ketchup, in the above proportion; give
one boil, and serve.
_Time_.--3/4 hour.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
SCOTCH COLLOPS, WHITE (Cold Meat Cookery).
871. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast veal, 1/2 teaspoonful of
grated nutmeg, 2 blades of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste, a
little butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/4 pint of water, 1
teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1
teaspoonful of lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 3
tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of sherry.
_Mode_.--Cut the veal into thin slices about 3 inches in width; hack
them with a knife, and grate on them the nutmeg, mace, cayenne, and
salt, and fry them in a little butter. Dish them, and make a gravy in
the pan by putting in the remaining ingredients. Give one boil, and pour
it over the collops; garnish with lemon and slices of toasted bacon,
rolled. Forcemeat balls may be added to this dish. If cream is not at
hand, substitute the yolk of an egg beaten up well with a little milk.
_Time_.--About 5 or 7 minutes.
_Seasonable_ from May to October.
COOKING COLLOPS.--Dean Ramsay, who tells us, in his
"Reminiscences of Scottish Life and Character," a number of
famous stories of the strong-headed, warm-hearted, and
plain-spoken old dames of the north, gives, amongst them, the
following:--A strong-minded lady of this class was inquiring the
character of a cook she was about to hire. The lady who was
giving the character entered a little upon the cook's moral
qualifications, and described her as a very decent woman; to
which the astounding reply--this was 60 years ago, and a Dean
tells the story--"Oh, d--n her decency; can she make good
collops?"
ROAST FILLET OF VEAL.
872. INGREDIENTS.--Veal, forcemeat No. 417, melted butter.
_Mode_.--Have the fillet cut according to the size required; take out
the bone, and after raising the skin from the meat, put under the flap a
nice forcemeat, made by recipe No. 417. Prepare sufficient of this, as
there should be some left to eat cold, and to season and flavour a mince
if required. Skewer and bind the veal up in a round form; dredge well
with flour, put it down at some distance from the fire at first, and
baste continually. About 1/2 hour before serving, draw it nearer the
fire, that it may acquire more colour, as the outside should be of a
rich brown, but not burnt. Dish it, remove the skewers, which replace by
a silver one; pour over the joint some good melted butter, and serve
with either boiled ham, bacon, or pickled pork. Never omit to send a cut
lemon to table with roast veal.
[Illustration: FILLET OF VEAL.]
_Time_.--A fillet of veal weighing 12 lbs., about 4 hours.
_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 9 or 10 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
STEWED FILLET OF VEAL.
873. INGREDIENTS.--A small fillet of veal, forcemeat No. 417, thickening
of butter and flour, a few mushrooms, white pepper to taste, 2
tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1/2 glass of
sherry.
_Mode_.--If the whole of the leg is purchased, take off the knuckle to
stew, and also the square end, which will serve for cutlets or pies.
Remove the bone, and fill the space with a forcemeat No. 417. Roll and
skewer it up firmly; place a few skewers at the bottom of a stewpan to
prevent the meat from sticking, and cover the veal with a little weak
stock. Let it simmer very _gently_ until tender, as the more slowly veal
is stewed, the better. Strain and thicken the sauce, flavour it with
lemon-juice, mace, sherry, and white pepper; give one boil, and pour it
over the meat. The skewers should be removed, and replaced by a silver
one, and the dish garnished with slices of cut lemon.
_Time_.--A. fillet of veal weighing 6 lbs., 3 hours' very gentle
stewing.
_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
THE GOLDEN CALF.--We are told in the book of Genesis, that Aaron, in the
lengthened absence of Moses, was constrained by the impatient people to
make them an image to worship; and that Aaron, instead of using his
delegated power to curb this sinful expression of the tribes, and
appease the discontented Jews, at once complied with their demand, and,
telling them to bring to him their rings and trinkets, fashioned out of
their willing contributions a calf of gold, before which the multitude
fell down and worshipped. Whether this image was a solid figure of gold,
or a wooden effigy merely, coated with metal, is uncertain. To suppose
the former,--knowing the size of the image made from such trifling
articles as rings, we must presuppose the Israelites to have spoiled the
Egyptians most unmercifully: the figure, however, is of more consequence
than the weight or size of the idol. That the Israelite brought away
more from Goshen than the plunder of the Egyptians, and that they were
deeply imbued with Egyptian superstition, the golden calf is only one,
out of many instances of proof; for a gilded ox, covered with a pall,
was in that country an emblem of Osiris, one of the gods of the Egyptian
trinity. Besides having a sacred cow, and many varieties of the holy
bull, this priest-ridden people worshipped the ox as a symbol of the
sun, and offered to it divine honours, as the emblem of frugality,
industry, and husbandry. It is therefore probable that, in borrowing so
familiar a type, the Israelites, in their calf-worship, meant, under a
well-understood cherubic symbol, to acknowledge the full force of those
virtues, under an emblem of divine power and goodness. The prophet Hosea
is full of denunciations against calf-worship in Israel, and alludes to
the custom of kissing these idols, Hosea, viii, 4-6.
FRICANDEAU OF VEAL (an Entree).
874. INGREDIENTS.--A piece of the fat side of a leg of veal (about 3
lbs.), lardoons, 2 carrots, 2 large onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2
blades of pounded mace, 6 whole allspice, 2 bay-leaves, pepper to taste,
a few slices of fat bacon, 1 pint of stock No. 107.
[Illustration: FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.]
_Mode_.--The veal for a fricandeau should be of the best quality, or it
will not be good. It may be known by the meat being white and not
thready. Take off the skin, flatten the veal on the table, then at one
stroke of the knife, cut off as much as is required, for a fricandeau
with an uneven surface never looks well. Trim it, and with a sharp knife
make two or three slits in the middle, that it may taste more of the
seasoning. Now lard it thickly with fat bacon, as lean gives a red
colour to the fricandeau. Slice the vegetables, and put these, with the
herbs and spices, in the _middle_ of a stewpan, with a few slices of
bacon at the top: these should form a sort of mound in the centre for
the veal to rest upon. Lay the fricandeau over the bacon, sprinkle over
it a little salt, and pour in just sufficient stock to cover the bacon,
&c., without touching the veal. Let it gradually come to a boil; then
put it over a slow and equal fire, and let it _simmer very_ gently for
about 2-1/2 hours, or longer should it be very large. Baste it
frequently with the liquor, and a short time before serving, put it into
a brisk oven, to make the bacon firm, which otherwise would break when
it was glazed. Dish the fricandeau, keep it hot, skim off the fat from
the liquor, and reduce it quickly to a glaze, with which glaze the
fricandeau, and serve with a purée of whatever vegetable happens to be
in season--spinach, sorrel, asparagus, cucumbers, peas, &c.
_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. If very large, allow more time.
_Average cost_, 3s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for an entrée.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
FRICANDEAU OF VEAL (_More economical_.)
875. INGREDIENTS.--The best end of a neck of veal (about 2-1/2 lbs.),
lardoons, 2 carrots, 2 onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades of
mace, 2 bay-leaves, a little whole white pepper, a few slices of fat
bacon.
_Mode_.--Cut away the lean part of the best end of a neck of veal with a
sharp knife, scooping it from the bones. Put the bones in with a little
water, which will serve to moisten the fricandeau: they should stew
about 1-1/2 hour. Lard the veal, proceed in the same way as in the
preceding recipe, and be careful that the gravy does not touch the
fricandeau. Stew very gently for 3 hours; glaze, and serve it on sorrel,
spinach, or with a little gravy in the dish.
_Time_.--3 hours.
_Average cost_, 2s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for an entrée.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
_Note_.--When the prime part of the leg is cut off, it spoils the whole;
consequently, to use this for a fricandeau is rather extravagant. The
best end of the neck answers the purpose nearly or quite as well.
BOILED CALF'S HEAD (with the Skin on).
876. INGREDIENTS.--Calf's head, boiling water, bread crumbs, 1 large
bunch of parsley, butter, white pepper and salt to taste, 4
tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 or 3
grains of cayenne.
_Mode_.--Put the head into boiling water, and let it remain by the side
of the fire for 3 or 4 minutes; take it out, hold it by the ear, and
with the back of a knife, scrape off the hair (should it not come off
easily, dip the head again into boiling water). When perfectly clean,
take the eyes out, cut off the ears, and remove the brain, which soak
for an hour in warm water. Put the head into hot water to soak for a few
minutes, to make it look white, and then have ready a stewpan, into
which lay the head; cover it with cold water, and bring it gradually to
boil. Remove the scum, and add a little salt, which assists to throw it
up. Simmer it very gently from 2-1/2 to 3 hours, and when nearly done,
boil the brains for 1/4 hour; skin and chop them, not too finely, and
add a tablespoonful of minced parsley which has been previously scalded.
Season with pepper and salt, and stir the brains, parsley, &c., into
about 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter; add the lemon-juice and
cayenne, and keep these hot by the side of the fire. Take up the head,
cut out the tongue, skin it, put it on a small dish with the brains
round it; sprinkle over the head a few bread crumbs mixed with a little
minced parsley; brown these before the fire, and serve with a tureen of
parsley and butter, and either boiled bacon, ham, or pickled pork as an
accompaniment.
_Time_.--2-1/2 to 3 hours.
_Average cost_, according to the season, from 3s. to 7s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
BOILED CALF'S HEAD (without the Skin).
877. INGREDIENTS.--Calf's head, water, a little salt, 4 tablespoonfuls
of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper and salt to
taste, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.
[Illustration: CALF'S HEAD.]
[Illustration: HALF A CALF'S HEAD.]
_Mode_.--After the head has been thoroughly cleaned, and the brains
removed, soak it in warm water to blanch it. Lay the brains also into
warm water to soak, and let them remain for about an hour. Put the head
into a stewpan, with sufficient cold water to cover it, and when it
boils, add a little salt; take off every particle of scum as it rises,
and boil the head until perfectly tender. Boil the brains, chop them,
and mix with them melted butter, minced parsley, pepper, salt, and
lemon-juice in the above proportion. Take up the head, skin the tongue,
and put it on a small dish with the brains round it. Have ready some
parsley and butter, smother the head with it, and the remainder send to
table in a tureen. Bacon, ham, pickled pork, or a pig's cheek, are
indispensable with calf's head. The brains are sometimes chopped with
hard-boiled eggs, and mixed with a little Béchamel or white sauce.
_Time_.--From 1-1/2 to 2-1/4 hours.
_Average cost_, according to the season, from 3s. to 5s.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
_Note_.--The liquor in which the head was boiled should be saved: it
makes excellent soup, and will be found a nice addition to gravies, &c.
Half a calf's head is as frequently served as a whole one, it being a
more convenient-sized joint for a small family. It is cooked in the same
manner, and served with the same sauces, as in the preceding recipe.
HASHED CALF'S HEAD (Cold Meat Cookery).
878. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold boiled calf's head, 1 quart of
the liquor in which it was boiled, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1 onion, 1
carrot, a strip of lemon-peel, 2 blades of pounded mace, salt and white
pepper to taste, a very little cayenne, rather more than 2
tablespoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1
tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, forcemeat balls.
_Mode_.--Cut the meat into neat slices, and put the bones and trimmings
into a stewpan with the above proportion of liquor that the head was
boiled in. Add a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, 1 carrot, a strip of
lemon-peel, and 2 blades of pounded mace, and let these boil for 1 hour,
or until the gravy is reduced nearly half. Strain it into a clean
stewpan, thicken it with a little butter and flour, and add a flavouring
of sherry, lemon-juice, and ketchup, in the above proportion; season
with pepper, salt, and a little cayenne; put in the meat, let it
_gradually_ warm through, but not boil more than _two_ or _three_
minutes. Garnish the dish with forcemeat balls and pieces of bacon
rolled and toasted, placed alternately, and send it to table very hot.
_Time_.--Altogether 1-1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the remains of the head, 6d.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
VEAL COLLOPS (an Entree).
879. INGREDIENTS.--About 2 lbs. of the prime part of the leg of veal, a
few slices of bacon, forcemeat No. 417, cayenne to taste, egg and bread
crumbs, gravy.
_Mode_.--Cut the veal into long thin collops, flatten them, and lay on
each a piece of thin bacon of the same size; have ready some forcemeat,
made by recipe No. 417, which spread over the bacon, sprinkle over all a
little cayenne, roll them up tightly, and do not let them be more than 2
inches long. Skewer each one firmly, egg and bread crumb them, and fry
them a nice brown in a little butter, turning them occasionally, and
shaking the pan about. When done, place them on a dish before the fire;
put a small piece of butter in the pan, dredge in a little flour, add
1/4 pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, a seasoning of salt,
pepper, and pounded mace; let the whole boil up, and pour it over the
collops.
_Time_.--From 10 to 15 minutes.
_Average cost_, 10d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
CALF'S LIVER AUX FINES HERBES & SAUCE PIQUANTE.
880. INGREDIENTS.--A calf's liver, flour, a bunch of savoury herbs,
including parsley; when liked, 2 minced shalots; 1 teaspoonful of flour,
1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, pepper and
salt to taste, 1/4 pint water.
_Mode_.--Procure a calf's liver as white as possible, and cut it into
slices of a good and equal shape. Dip them in flour, and fry them of a
good colour in a little butter. When they are done, put them on a dish,
which keep hot before the fire. Mince the herbs very fine, put them in
the frying-pan with a little more butter; add the remaining ingredients,
simmer gently until the herbs are done, and pour over the liver.
_Time_.--According to the thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes.
_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
CALF'S LIVER AND BACON.
881. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 lbs. of liver, bacon, pepper and salt to
taste, a small piece of butter, flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice,
1/4 pint of water.
_Mode_.--Cut the liver in thin slices, and cut as many slices of bacon
as there are of liver; fry the bacon first, and put that on a hot dish
before the fire. Fry the liver in the fat which comes from the bacon,
after seasoning it with pepper and salt and dredging over it a very
little flour. Turn the liver occasionally to prevent its burning, and
when done, lay it round the dish with a piece of bacon between each.
Pour away the bacon fat, put in a small piece of butter, dredge in a
little flour, add the lemon-juice and water, give one boil, and pour it
in the _middle_ of the dish. It may be garnished with slices of cut
lemon, or forcemeat balls.
_Time_.--According to the thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes.
_Average cost_, 10d. per lb. _Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
CALF'S LIVER LARDED AND ROASTED (an Entree).
882. INGREDIENTS.--A calf's liver, vinegar, 1 onion, 3 or 4 sprigs of
parsley and thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 bay-leaf, lardoons, brown
gravy.
_Mode_.--Take a fine white liver, and lard it the same as a fricandeau;
put it into vinegar with an onion cut in slices, parsley, thyme,
bay-leaf, and seasoning in the above proportion. Let it remain in this
pickle for 24 hours, then roast and baste it frequently with the
vinegar, &c.; glaze it, serve under it a good brown gravy, or sauce
piquante, and send it to table very hot.
_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
_Note_.--Calf's liver stuffed with forcemeat No. 417, to which has been
added a little fat bacon, will be found a very savoury dish. It should
be larded or wrapped in buttered paper, and roasted before a clear fire.
Brown gravy and currant jelly should be served with it.
FILLET OF VEAL AU BECHAMEL (Cold Meat Cookery).
883. INGREDIENTS.--A small fillet of veal, 1 pint of Béchamel sauce No.
367, a few bread crumbs, clarified butter.
_Mode_.--A fillet of real that has been roasted the preceding day will
answer very well for this dish. Cut the middle out rather deep, leaving
a good margin round, from which to cut nice slices, and if there should
be any cracks in the veal, fill them up with forcemeat. Mince finely the
meat that was taken out, mixing with it a little of the forcemeat to
flavour, and stir to it sufficient Béchamel to make it of a proper
consistency. Warm the veal in the oven for about an hour, taking care to
baste it well, that it may not be dry; put the mince in the place where
the meat was taken out, sprinkle a few bread crumbs over it, and drop a
little clarified butter on the bread crumbs; put it into the oven for
1/4 hour to brown, and pour Béchamel round the sides of the dish.
_Time_.--Altogether 1-1/2 hour.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
TO RAGOUT A KNUCKLE OF VEAL.
884. INGREDIENTS.--Knuckle of veal, pepper and salt to taste, flour, 1
onion, 1 head of celery, or a little celery-seed, a faggot of savoury
herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, thickening of butter and flour, a few
young carrots, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of tomato
sauce, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, the juice of 1/4 lemon.
_Mode_.--Cut the meat from a knuckle of veal into neat slices, season
with pepper and salt, and dredge them with flour. Fry them in a little
butter of a pale brown, and put them into a stewpan with the bone (which
should be chopped in several places); add the celery, herbs, mace, and
carrots; pour over all about 1 pint of hot water, and let it simmer very
gently for 2 hours, over a slow but clear fire. Take out the slices of
meat and carrots, strain and thicken the gravy with a little butter
rolled in flour; add the remaining ingredients, give one boil, put back
the meat and carrots, let these get hot through, and serve. When in
season, a few green peas, _boiled separately_, and added to this dish at
the moment of serving, would be found a very agreeable addition.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 5d. to 6d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons.
STEWED KNUCKLE OF VEAL AND RICE.
885. INGREDIENTS.--Knuckle of veal, 1 onion, 2 blades of mace, 1
teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 lb. of rice.
[Illustration: KNUCKLE OF VEAL.]
_Mode_.--Have the knuckle cut small, or cut some cutlets from it, that
it may be just large enough to be eaten the same day it is dressed, as
cold boiled veal is not a particularly tempting dish. Break the
shank-bone, wash it clean, and put the meat into a stewpan with
sufficient water to cover it. Let it gradually come to a boil, put in
the salt, and remove the scum as fast as it rises. When it has simmered
gently for about 3/4 hour, add the remaining ingredients, and stew the
whole gently for 2-1/4 hours. Put the meat into a deep dish, pour over
it the rice, &c., and send boiled bacon, and a tureen of parsley and
butter to table with it.
_Time_.--A knuckle of veal weighing 6 lbs., 3 hours' gentle stewing.
_Average cost_, 5d. to 6d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
_Note_.--Macaroni, instead of rice, boiled with the veal, will be found
good; or the rice and macaroni may be omitted, and the veal sent to
table smothered in parsley and butter.
ROAST LOIN OF VEAL.
[Illustration: LOIN OF VEAL.]
886. INGREDIENTS.--Veal; melted butter.
_Mode_.--Paper the kidney fat; roll in and skewer the flap, which makes
the joint a good shape; dredge it well with flour, and put it down to a
bright fire. Should the loin be very large, skewer the kidney back for a
time to roast thoroughly. Keep it well basted, and a short time before
serving, remove the paper from the kidney, and allow it to acquire a
nice brown colour, but it should not be burnt. Have ready some melted
butter, put it into the dripping-pan after it is emptied of its
contents, pour it over the veal, and serve. Garnish the dish with slices
of lemon and forcemeat balls, and send to table with it, boiled bacon,
ham, pickled pork, or pig's cheek.
_Time_.--A large loin, 3 hours.
_Average cost_, 9-1/2d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
_Note_.--A piece of toast should be placed under the kidney when the
veal is dished.
LOIN OF VEAL AU BECHAMEL (Cold Meat Cookery).
887. INGREDIENTS.--Loin of veal, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel,
rather more than 1/2 pint of Béchamel or white sauce.
_Mode_.--A loin of veal which has come from table with very little taken
off, answers very well for this dish. Cut off the meat from the inside,
mince it, and mix with it some minced lemon-peel; put it into sufficient
Béchamel to warm through. In the mean time, wrap the joint in buttered
paper, and place it in the oven to warm. When thoroughly hot, dish the
mince, place the loin above it, and pour over the remainder of the
Béchamel.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour to warm the meat in the oven.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
LOIN OF VEAL, a la Daube.
888. INGREDIENTS.--The chump end of a loin of veal, forcemeat No. 417, a
few slices of bacon, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of mace, 1/2
teaspoonful of whole white pepper, 1 pint of veal stock or water, 5 or 6
green onions.
_Mode_.--Cut off the chump from a loin of veal, and take out the bone;
fill the cavity with forcemeat No. 417, tie it up tightly, and lay it in
a stewpan with the bones and trimmings, and cover the veal with a few
slices of bacon. Add the herbs, mace, pepper, and onions, and stock or
water; cover the pan with a closely-fitting lid, and simmer for 2 hours,
shaking the stewpan occasionally. Take out the bacon, herbs, and onions;
reduce the gravy, if not already thick enough, to a glaze, with which
glaze the meat, and serve with tomato, mushroom, or sorrel sauce.
_Time_.--2 hours.
_Average cost_, 9d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
MINCED VEAL, with Béchamel Sauce (Cold Meat Cookery).
(_Very Good_.)
889. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a fillet of veal, 1 pint of Béchamel
sauce No. 367, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, forcemeat balls.
_Mode_.--Cut--but do not _chop_--a few slices of cold roast veal as
finely as possible, sufficient to make rather more than 1 lb., weighed
after being minced. Make the above proportion of Béchamel, by recipe No.
367; add the lemon-peel, put in the veal, and let the whole gradually
warm through. When it is at the point of simmering, dish it, and garnish
with forcemeat balls and fried sippets of bread.
_Time_.--To simmer 1 minute.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 1s. 4d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
MINCED VEAL.
(_More Economical_.)
890. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold roast fillet or loin of veal,
rather more than 1 pint of water, 1 onion, 1/2 teaspoonful of minced
lemon-peel, salt and white pepper to taste, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2
or 3 young carrots, a faggot of sweet herbs, thickening of butter and
flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream or
milk.
_Mode_.--Take about 1 lb. of veal, and should there be any bones, dredge
them with flour, and put them into a stewpan with the brown outside, and
a few meat trimmings; add rather more than a pint of water, the onion
cut in slices, lemon-peel, seasoning, mace, carrots, and herbs; simmer
these well for rather more than 1 hour, and strain the liquor. Rub a
little flour into some butter; add this to the gravy, set it on the
fire, and, when it boils, skim well. Mince the veal finely by _cutting_,
and not chopping it; put it in the gravy; let it get warmed through
gradually; add the lemon-juice and cream, and, when it is on the point
of boiling, serve. Garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread and
slices of bacon rolled and toasted. Forcemeat balls may also be added.
If more lemon-peel is liked than is stated above, put a little very
finely minced to the veal, after it is warmed in the gravy.
_Time_.--1 hour to make the gravy.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
THE CALF A SYMBOL OF DIVINE POWER.--A singular symbolical
ceremony existed among the Hebrews, in which the calf performed
a most important part. The calf being a type or symbol of Divine
power, or what was called the _Elohim_,--the Almighty
intelligence that brought them out of Egypt,--was looked upon
much in the same light by the Jews, as the cross subsequently
was by the Christians, a mystical emblem of the Divine passion
and goodness. Consequently, an oath taken on either the calf or
the cross was considered equally solemn and sacred by Jew or
Nazarene, and the breaking of it a soul-staining perjury on
themselves, and an insult and profanation directly offered to
the Almighty. To render the oath more impressive and solemn, it
was customary to slaughter a dedicated calf in the temple, when,
the priests having divided the carcase into a certain number of
parts, and with intervening spaces, arranged the severed limbs
on the marble pavement, the one, or all the party, if there were
many individuals, to be bound by the oath, repeating the words
of the compact, threaded their way in and out through the
different spaces, till they had taken the circuit of each
portion of the divided calf, when the ceremony was concluded. To
avert the anger of the Lord, when Jerusalem was threatened by
Nebuchadnezzar and his Babylonian host, the Jews had made a
solemn to God, ratified by the ceremony of the calf, if He
released them from their dreaded foe, to cancel the servitude of
their Hebrew brethren. After investing the city for some time,
and reducing the inhabitants to dreadful suffering and
privation, the Babylonians, hearing that Pharaoh, whom the Jews
had solicited for aid, was rapidly approaching with a powerful
army, hastily raised the siege, and, removing to a distance,
took up a position where they could intercept the Egyptians, and
still cover the city. No sooner did the Jews behold the retreat
of the enemy, than they believed all danger was past, and, with
their usual turpitude, they repudiated their oath, and refused
to liberate their oppressed countrymen. For this violation of
their covenant with the Lord, they were given over to all the
horrors of the sword, pestilence, and famine--Jeremiah, xxxiv.
15-17.
MINCED VEAL AND MACARONI.
(_A pretty side or corner dish_.)
891. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of minced cold roast veal, 3 oz. of ham, 1
tablespoonful of gravy, pepper and salt to taste, 3 teaspoonful of
grated nutmeg, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of macaroni, 1 or 2 eggs
to bind, a small piece of butter.
_Mode_.--Cut some nice slices from a cold fillet of veal, trim off the
brown outside, and mince the meat finely with the above proportion of
ham: should the meat be very dry, add a spoonful of good gravy. Season
highly with pepper and salt, add the grated nutmeg and bread crumbs, and
mix these ingredients with 1 or 2 eggs well beaten, which should bind
the mixture and make it like forcemeat. In the mean time, boil the
macaroni in salt and water, and drain it; butter a mould, put some of
the macaroni at the bottom and sides of it, in whatever form is liked;
mix the remainder with the forcemeat, fill the mould up to the top, put
a plate or small dish on it, and steam for 1/2 hour. Turn it out
carefully, and serve with good gravy poured round, but not over, the
meat.
_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 10d.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
_Note_.--To make a variety, boil some carrots and turnips separately in
a little salt and water; when done, cut them into pieces about 1/8 inch
in thickness; butter an oval mould, and place these in it, in white and
red stripes alternately, at the bottom and sides. Proceed as in the
foregoing recipe, and be very careful in turning it out of the mould.
MOULDED MINCED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).
892. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 lb. of cold roast veal, a small slice of bacon,
1/4 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1/2 onion chopped fine, salt,
pepper, and pounded mace to taste, a slice of toast soaked in milk, 1
egg.
_Mode_.--Mince the meat very fine, after removing from it all skin and
outside pieces, and chop the bacon; mix these well together, adding the
lemon-peel, onion, seasoning, mace, and toast. When all the ingredients
are thoroughly incorporated, heat up an egg, with which bind the
mixture. Butter a shape, put in the meat, and hake for 3/4 hour; turn it
out of the mould carefully, and pour round it a good brown gravy. A
sheep's head dressed in this manner is an economical and savoury dish.
_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
BRAISED NECK OF VEAL.
893. INGREDIENTS.--The best end of the neck of veal (from 3 to 4 lbs.),
bacon, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, salt, pepper, and grated
nutmeg to taste; 1 onion, 2 carrots, a little celery (when this is not
obtainable, use the seed), 1/2 glass of sherry, thickening of butter and
flour, lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace.
_Mode_.--Prepare the bacon for larding, and roll it in minced parsley,
salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg; lard the veal, put it into a stewpan
with a few slices of lean bacon or ham, an onion, carrots, and celery;
and do not quite cover it with water. Stew it gently for 2 hours, or
until it is quite tender; strain off the liquor; stir together over the
fire, in a stewpan, a little flour and butter until brown; lay the veal
in this, the upper side to the bottom of the pan, and let it remain till
of a nice brown colour. Place it in the dish; pour into the stewpan as
much gravy as is required, boil it up, skim well, add the wine, pounded
mace, and lemon-juice; simmer for 3 minutes, pour it over the meat, and
serve.
_Time_.--Rather more than 2 hours.
_Average cost_, 8d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
BIRTH OF CALVES.--The cow seldom produces more than a single
calf; sometimes, twins, and, very rarely, three. A French
newspaper, however,--the "Nouveau Bulletin des Sciences,"--gave
a trustworthy but extraordinary account of a cow which produced
nine calves in all, at three successive births, in three
successive years. The first year, four cow calves; the second
year, three calves, two of them females; the third year, two
calves, both females. With the exception of two belonging to the
first birth, all were suckled by the mother.
ROAST NECK OF VEAL.
894. INGREDIENTS.--Veal, melted butter, forcemeat balls.
_Mode_.--Have the veal cut from the best end of the neck; dredge it with
flour, and put it down to a bright clear fire; keep it well basted; dish
it, pour over it some melted butter, and garnish the dish with fried
forcemeat balls; send to table with a cut lemon. The scrag may be boiled
or stewed in various ways, with rice, onion-sauce, or parsley and
butter.
_Time_.--About 2 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per lb.
_Sufficient_.--4 or 5 lbs. for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
VEAL OLIVE PIE (Cold Meat Cookery).
895. INGREDIENTS.--A few thin slices of cold fillet of veal, a few thin
slices of bacon, forcemeat No. 417, a cupful of gravy, 4 tablespoonfuls
of cream, puff-crust.
_Mode_.--Cut thin slices from a fillet of veal, place on them thin
slices of bacon, and over them a layer of forcemeat, made by recipe No.
417, with an additional seasoning of shalot and cayenne; roll them
tightly, and fill up a pie-dish with them; add the gravy and cream,
cover with a puff-crust, and bake for 1 to 1-1/2 hour: should the pie be
very large, allow 2 hours. The pieces of rolled veal should be about 3
inches in length, and about 3 inches round.
_Time_.--Moderate-sized pie, 1 to 1-1/2 hour.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
FRIED PATTIES (Cold Meat Cookery).
896. INGREDIENTS.--Cold roast veal, a few slices of cold ham, 1 egg
boiled hard, pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, gravy, cream, 1
teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, good puff-paste.
_Mode_.--Mince a little cold veal and ham, allowing one-third ham to
two-thirds veal; add an egg boiled hard and chopped, and a seasoning of
pounded mace, salt, pepper, and lemon-peel; moisten with a little gravy
and cream. Make a good puff-paste; roll rather thin, and cut it into
round or square pieces; put the mince between two of them, pinch the
edges to keep in the gravy, and fry a light brown. They may be also
baked in patty-pans: in that case, they should be brushed over with the
yolk of an egg before they are put in the oven. To make a variety,
oysters may be substituted for the ham.
_Time_.--15 minutes to fry the patties.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
VEAL PIE.
897. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of veal cutlets, 1 or 2 slices of lean bacon
or ham, pepper and salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury
herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, crust, 1 teacupful of gravy.
_Mode_.--Cut the cutlets into square pieces, and season them with
pepper, salt, and pounded mace; put them in a pie-dish with the savoury
herbs sprinkled over, and 1 or 2 slices of lean bacon or ham placed at
the top: if possible, this should be previously cooked, as undressed
bacon makes the veal red, and spoils its appearance. Pour in a little
water, cover with crust, ornament it in any way that is approved; brush
it over with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a well-heated oven for
about 1-1/2 hour. Pour in a good gravy after baking, which is done by
removing the top ornament, and replacing it after the gravy is added.
_Time_.--About 1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
A VERY VEAL DINNER.--At a dinner given by Lord Polkemmet, a
Scotch nobleman and judge, his guests saw, when the covers were
removed, that the fare consisted of veal broth, a roasted fillet
of veal, veal cutlets, a veal pie, a calf's head, and
calf's-foot jelly. The judge, observing the surprise of his
guests, volunteered an explanation.--"Oh, ay, it's a' cauf;
when we kill a beast, we just eat up ae side, and doun the
tither."
VEAL AND HAM PIE.
898. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of veal cutlets, 1/2 lb. of boiled ham, 2
tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, 1/4 teaspoonful of grated
nutmeg, 2 blades of pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, a strip of
lemon-peel finely minced, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1/2 pint of
water, nearly 1/2 pint of good strong gravy, puff-crust.
_Mode_.--Cut the veal into nice square pieces, and put a layer of them
at the bottom of a pie-dish; sprinkle over these a portion of the herbs,
spices, seasoning, lemon-peel, and the yolks of the eggs cut in slices;
cut the ham very thin, and put a layer of this in. Proceed in this
manner until the dish is full, so arranging it that the ham comes at the
top. Lay a puff-paste on the edge of the dish, and pour in about 1/2
pint of water; cover with crust, ornament it with leaves, brush it over
with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a well-heated oven for 1 to 1-1/2
hour, or longer, should the pie be very large. When it is taken out of
the oven, pour in at the top, through a funnel, nearly 1/2 pint of
strong gravy: this should be made sufficiently good that, when cold, it
may cut in a firm jelly. This pie may be very much enriched by adding a
few mushrooms, oysters, or sweetbreads; but it will be found very good
without any of the last-named additions.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour, or longer, should the pie be very large. _Average
cost_, 3s. _Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from March to
October.
POTTED VEAL (for Breakfast).
899. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of veal allow 1/4 lb. of ham, cayenne
and pounded mace to taste, 6 oz. of fresh butter; clarified butter.
_Mode_.--Mince the veal and ham together as finely as possible, and
pound well in a mortar, with cayenne, pounded mace, and fresh butter in
the above proportion. When reduced to a perfectly smooth paste, press it
into potting-pots, and cover with clarified butter. If kept in a cool
place, it will remain good some days.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
NAMES OF CALVES, &c.--During the time the young male calf is
suckled by his mother, he is called a bull-or ox-calf; when
turned a year old, he is called a stirk, stot, or yearling; on
the completion of his second year, he is called a two-year-old
bull or steer (and in some counties a twinter); then, a
three-year-old steer; and at four, an ox or a bullock, which
latter names are retained till death. It may be here remarked,
that the term ox is used as a general or common appellation for
neat cattle, in a specific sense, and irrespective of sex; as
the British ox, the Indian ox. The female is termed cow, but
while sucking the mother, a cow-calf; at the age of a year, she
is called a yearling quey; in another year, a heifer, or
twinter; then, a three-year-old quey or twinter; and, at four
years old, a cow. Other names, to be regarded as provincialisms,
may exist in different districts.
RAGOUT OF COLD VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).
900. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of cold veal, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint
of gravy, thickening of butter and flour, pepper and salt to taste, 1
blade of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1
tablespoonful of sherry, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, forcemeat
balls.
_Mode_.--Any part of veal will make this dish. Cut the meat into
nice-looking pieces, put them in a stewpan with 1 oz. of butter, and fry
a light brown; add the gravy (hot water may be substituted for this),
thicken with a little butter and flour, and stew gently about 1/4 hour;
season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace; add the ketchup, sherry, and
lemon-juice; give one boil, and serve. Garnish the dish with forcemeat
balls and fried rashers of bacon.
_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
_Note_.--The above recipe may be varied, by adding vegetables, such as
peas, cucumbers, lettuces, green onions cut in slices, a dozen or two of
green gooseberries (not seedy), all of which should be fried a little
with the meat, and then stewed in the gravy.
VEAL RISSOLES (Cold Meat Cookery).
901. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of ham
or bacon, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 tablespoonful of minced
savoury herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, a very little grated nutmeg,
cayenne and salt to taste, 2 eggs well beaten, bread crumbs.
_Mode_.--Mince the veal very finely with a little ham or bacon; add the
parsley, herbs, spices, and seasoning; mix into a paste with an egg;
form into balls or cones; brush these over with egg, sprinkle with bread
crumbs, and fry a rich brown. Serve with brown gravy, and garnish the
dish with fried parsley.
_Time_.--About 10 minutes to fry the rissoles.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
VEAL ROLLS (Cold Meat Cookery).
902. INGREDIENTS.--The remains of a cold fillet of veal, egg and bread
crumbs, a few slices of fat bacon, forcemeat No. 417.
_Mode_.--Cut a few slices from a cold fillet of veal 1/2 inch thick; rub
them over with egg; lay a thin slice of fat bacon over each piece of
veal; brush these with the egg, and over this spread the forcemeat
thinly; roll up each piece tightly, egg and bread crumb them, and fry
them a rich brown. Serve with mushroom sauce or brown gravy.
_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes to fry the rolls.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
SHOULDER OF VEAL, Stuffed and Stewed.
903. INGREDIENTS.--A shoulder of veal, a few slices of ham or bacon,
forcemeat No. 417, 3 carrots, 2 onions, salt and pepper to taste, a
faggot of savoury herbs, 3 blades of pounded mace, water, thickening of
butter and flour.
_Mode_.--Bone the joint by carefully detaching the meat from the
blade-bone on one side, and then on the other, being particular not to
pierce the skin; then cut the bone from the knuckle, and take it out.
Fill the cavity whence the bone was taken with a forcemeat made by
recipe No. 417. Roll and bind the veal up tightly; put it into a
stew-pan with the carrots, onions, seasoning, herbs, and mace; pour in
just sufficient water to cover it, and let it stew _very gently_ for
about 5 hours. Before taking it up, try if it is properly done by
thrusting a larding-needle in it: if it penetrates easily, it is
sufficiently cooked. Strain and skim the gravy, thicken with butter and
flour, give one boil, and pour it round the meat. A few young carrots
may be boiled and placed round the dish as a garnish, and, when in
season, green peas should always be served with this dish.
_Time_.--5 hours. _Average cost_, 7d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 8 or 9 persons. _Seasonable_ from March to October.
THE FATTENING OF CALVES.--The fattening of calves for the market
is an important business in Lanarkshire or Clydesdale, and
numbers of newly-dropped calves are regularly carried there from
the farmers of the adjacent districts, in order to be prepared
for the butcher. The mode of feeding them is very simple; milk
is the chief article of their diet, and of this the calves
require a sufficient supply from first to last. Added to this,
they must be kept in a well-aired place, neither too hot nor too
cold, and freely supplied with dry litter. It is usual to
exclude the light,--at all events to a great degree, and to put
within their reach a lump of chalk, which they are very fond of
licking. Thus fed, calves, at the end of 8 or 9 weeks, often
attain a very large size; viz., 18 to 20 stone, exclusive of the
offal. Far heavier weights have occurred, and without any
deterioration in the delicacy and richness of the flesh. This
mode of feeding upon milk alone at first appears to be very
expensive, but it is not so, when all things are taken into
consideration; for at the age of 9 or 10 weeks a calf,
originally purchased for 8 shillings, will realize nearly the
same number of pounds. For 4, or even 6 weeks, the milk of one
cow is sufficient,--indeed half that quantity is enough for the
first fortnight; but after the 5th or 6th week it will consume
the greater portion of the milk of two moderate cows; but then
it requires neither oil-cake nor linseed, nor any other food.
Usually, however, the calves are not kept beyond the age of 6
weeks, and will then sell for 5 or 6 pounds each: the milk of
the cow is then ready for a successor. In this manner a relay of
calves may be prepared for the markets from early spring to the
end of summer, a plan more advantageous than that of overfeeding
one to a useless degree of corpulency.
VEAL SAUSAGES.
904. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of fat bacon and lean veal; to every
lb. of meat, allow 1 teaspoonful of minced sage, salt and pepper to
taste.
_Mode_.--Chop the meat and bacon finely, and to every lb. allow the
above proportion of very finely-minced sage; add a seasoning of pepper
and salt, mix the whole well together, make it into flat cakes, and fry
a nice brown.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
STEWED VEAL, with Peas, young Carrots, and new Potatoes.
905. INGREDIENTS.--3 or 4 lbs. of the loin or neck of veal, 15 young
carrots, a few green onions, 1 pint of green peas, 12 new potatoes, a
bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of
mushroom ketchup.
_Mode_.--Dredge the meat with flour, and roast or bake it for about 3/4
hour: it should acquire a nice brown colour. Put the meat into a stewpan
with the carrots, onions, potatoes, herbs, pepper, and salt; pour over
it sufficient boiling water to cover it, and stew gently for 2 hours.
Take out the meat and herbs, put it in a deep dish, skim off all the fat
from the gravy, and flavour it with lemon-juice, tomato sauce, and
mushroom ketchup in the above proportion. Have ready a pint of green
peas boiled; put these with the meat, pour over it the gravy, and
serve. The dish may be garnished with a few forcemeat balls. The meat,
when preferred, may be cut into chops, and floured and fried instead of
being roasted; and any part of veal dressed in this way will be found
extremely savoury and good.
_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 9d. per lb.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.
_Seasonable_, with peas, from June to August.
BAKED SWEETBREADS (an Entree).
906. INGREDIENTS.--3 sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, oiled butter, 3
slices of toast, brown gravy.
[Illustration: SWEETBREADS.]
_Mode_.--Choose large white sweetbreads; put them into warm water to
draw out the blood, and to improve their colour; let them remain for
rather more than 1 hour; then put them into boiling water, and allow
them to simmer for about 10 minutes, which renders them firm. Take them
up, drain them, brush over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs; dip
them in egg again, and then into more bread crumbs. Drop on them a
little oiled butter, and put the sweetbreads into a moderately-heated
oven, and let them bake for nearly 3/4 hour. Make 3 pieces of toast;
place the sweetbreads on the toast, and pour round, but not over them, a
good brown gravy.
_Time_.--To soak 1 hour, to be boiled 10 minutes, baked 40 minutes.
_Average cost_, 1s. to 5s. _Sufficient_ for an entrée.
_Seasonable_.--In full season from May to August.
FRIED SWEETBREADS a la Maitre d'Hotel (an Entree).
907. INGREDIENTS.--3 sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, 1/4 lb. of
butter, salt and pepper to taste, rather more than 1/2 pint of Maître
d'hôtel sauce No. 466.
_Mode_.--Soak the sweetbreads in warm water for an hour; then boil them
for 10 minutes; cut them in slices, egg and bread crumb them, season
with pepper and salt, and put them into a frying-pan, with the above
proportion of butter. Keep turning them until done, which will be in
about 10 minutes; dish them, and pour over them a Maître d'hôtel sauce,
made by recipe No. 466. The dish may be garnished with slices of cut
lemon.
_Time_.--To soak 1 hour, to be broiled 10 minutes, to be fried about 10
minutes.
_Average cost_, 1s. to 5s., according to the season.
_Sufficient_ for an entrée.
_Seasonable_.--In full season from May to August.
_Note_.--The egg and bread crumb may be omitted, and the slices of
sweetbread dredged with a little flour instead, and a good gravy may be
substituted for the _maitre d'hôtel_ sauce. This is a very simple method
of dressing them.
STEWED SWEETBREADS (an Entree).
908. INGREDIENTS.--3 sweetbreads, 1 pint of white stock No. 107,
thickening of butter and flour, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1
tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace, white pepper and
salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Soak the sweetbreads in warm water for 1 hour, and boil them
for 10 minutes; take them out, put them into cold water for a few
minutes; lay them in a stewpan with the stock, and simmer them gently
for rather more than 1/2 hour. Dish them; thicken the gravy with a
little butter and flour; let it boil up, add the remaining ingredients,
allow the sauce to get quite _hot_, but _not boil_, and pour it over the
sweetbreads.
_Time_.--To soak 1 hour, to be boiled 10 minutes, stewed rather more
than 1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, from 1s. to 5s., according to the season.
_Sufficient_ for an entrée.
_Seasonable_.--In full season from May to August.
_Note_.--A few mushrooms added to this dish, and stewed with the
sweetbreads, will be found an improvement.
SEASON AND CHOICE OF VEAL.--Veal, like all other meats, has its
season of plenty. The best veal, and the largest supply, are to
be had from March to the end of July. It comes principally from
the western counties, and is generally of the Alderney breed. In
purchasing veal, its whiteness and fineness of grain should be
considered, the colour being especially of the utmost
consequence. Veal may be bought at all times of the year and of
excellent quality, but is generally very dear, except in the
months of plenty.
STEWED TENDRONS DE VEAU (an Entree).
909. INGREDIENTS.--The gristles from 2 breasts of veal, stock No. 107, 1
faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, 4 cloves, 2 carrots,
2 onions, a strip of lemon-peel.
_Mode_.--The _tendrons_ or gristles, which are found round the front of
a breast of veal, are now very frequently served as an entrée, and when
well dressed, make a nice and favourite dish. Detach the gristles from
the bone, and cut them neatly out, so as not to spoil the joint for
roasting or stewing. Put them into a stewpan, with sufficient stock, No.
107, to cover them; add the herbs, mace, cloves, carrots, onions, and
lemon, and simmer these for nearly, or quite, 4 hours. They should be
stewed until a fork will enter the meat easily. Take them up, drain
them, strain the gravy, boil it down to a glaze, with which glaze the
meat. Dish the _tendrons_ in a circle, with croûtons fried of a nice
colour placed between each; and put mushroom sauce, or a purée of green
peas or tomatoes, in the middle.
_Time_.--4 hours. _Sufficient_ for one entrée.
_Seasonable_.--With peas, from June to August.
COW-POX, OR VARIOLA.--It is to Dr. Jenner, of Berkeley,
Gloucestershire, who died in 1823, that we owe the practice of
vaccination, as a preservative from the attack of that
destructive scourge of the human race, the small-pox. The
experiments of this philosophic man were begun in 1797, and
published the next year. He had observed that cows were subject
to a certain infectious eruption of the teats, and that those
persons who became affected by it, while milking the cattle,
escaped the small-pox raging around them. This fact, known to
farmers from time immemorial, led him to a course of
experiments, the result of which all are acquainted with.
TENDRONS DE VEAU (an Entree).
910. INGREDIENTS.--The gristles from 2 breasts of veal, stock No. 107, 1
faggot of savoury herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, 4 cloves, 2 carrots, 2
onions, a strip of lemon-peel, egg and bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of
chopped mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry,
the yolk of 1 egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream.
_Mode_.--After removing the gristles from a breast of veal, stew them
for 4 hours, as in the preceding recipe, with stock, herbs, mace,
cloves, carrots, onions, and lemon-peel. When perfectly tender, lift
them out and remove any bones or hard parts remaining. Put them between
two dishes, with a weight on the top, and when cold, cut them into
slices. Brush these over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and fry a
pale brown. Take 1/2 pint of the gravy they were boiled in, add 2
tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, a seasoning of salt and pepper, the
sherry, and the yolk of an egg beaten with 3 tablespoonfuls of cream.
Stir the sauce over the fire until it thickens; when it is on the _point
of boiling_, dish the tendrons in a circle, and pour the sauce in the
middle. Tendrons are dressed in a variety of ways,--with sauce à
l'Espagnole, vegetables of all kinds: when they are served with a purée,
they should always be glazed.
_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_.--Usually bought with breast of
veal.
_Sufficient_ for an entrée.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
TETE DE VEAU EN TORTUE (an Entree).
911. INGREDIENTS.--Half a calf's head, or the remains of a cold boiled
one; rather more than 1 pint of good white stock, No. 107, 1 glass of
sherry or Madeira, cayenne and salt to taste, about 12 mushroom-buttons
(when obtainable), 6 hard-boiled eggs, 4 gherkins, 8 quenelles or
forcemeat balls, No. 422 or 423, 12 crayfish, 12 croûtons.
_Mode_.--Half a calf's head is sufficient to make a good entrée, and if
there are any remains of a cold one left from the preceding day, it will
answer very well for this dish. After boiling the head until tender,
remove the bones, and cut the meat into neat pieces; put the stock into
a stewpan, add the wine, and a seasoning of salt and cayenne; fry the
mushrooms in butter for 2 or 3 minutes, and add these to the gravy. Boil
this quickly until somewhat reduced; then put in the yolks of the
hard-boiled eggs _whole_, the whites cut in small pieces, and the
gherkins chopped. Have ready a few veal quenelles, made by recipe No.
422 or 423; add these, with the slices of head, to the other
ingredients, and let the whole get thoroughly hot, _without boiling_.
Arrange the pieces of head as high in the centre of the dish as
possible; pour over them the ragout, and garnish with the crayfish and
croûtons placed alternately. A little of the gravy should also be served
in a tureen.
_Time_.--About 1/2 hour to reduce the stock.
_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.
_Average cost_, exclusive of the calf's head, 2s. 9d.
_Seasonable_ from March to October.
A FRENCHMAN'S OPINION OF VEAL.--A great authority in his native
Paris tells us, that veal, as a meat, is but little nourishing,
is relaxing, and sufficiently difficult of digestion. Lending
itself, as it does, he says, in all the flowery imagery of the
French tongue and manner, "to so many metamorphoses, it may be
called, without exaggeration, the chameleon of the kitchen. Who
has not eaten calf's head _au naturel_, simply boiled with the
skin on, its flavour heightened by sauce just a little sharp? It
is a dish as wholesome as it is agreeable, and one that the most
inexperienced cook may serve with success. Calf's feet _à la
poulette_, _au gratin_, fried, &c.; _les cervelles_, served in
the same manner, and under the same names; sweetbreads _en
fricandeau_, _piqués en fin_,--all these offer most satisfactory
entrées, which the art of the cook, more or less, varies for the
gratification of his glory and the well-being of our appetites.
We have not spoken, in the above catalogue, either of the liver,
or of the _fraise_, or of the ears, which also share the honour
of appearing at our tables. Where is the man not acquainted with
calf's liver _à la bourgeoise_, the most frequent and convenient
dish at unpretentious tables? The _fraise_, cooked in water, and
eaten with vinegar, is a wholesome and agreeable dish, and
contains a mucilage well adapted for delicate persons. Calf's
ears have, in common with the feet and _cervelles_, the
advantage of being able to be eaten either fried or _à la
poulette_; and besides, can be made into a _farce_, with the
addition of peas, onions, cheese, &c. Neither is it confined to
the calf's tongue, or even the eyes, that these shall dispute
alone the glory of awakening the taste of man; thus, the
_fressure_ (which, as is known, comprises the heart, the _mou_,
and the _rate_), although not a very recherché dish, lends
itself to all the caprices of an expert artist, and may, under
various marvellous disguises, deceive, and please, and even
awaken our appetite."--Verily, we might say, after this rhapsody
of our neighbour, that his country's weal will not suffer in him
as an able and eloquent exponent and admirer.
VEAL CARVING.
BREAST OF VEAL.
[Illustration: BREAST OF VEAL.]
912. The carving of a breast of veal is not dissimilar to that of a
fore-quarter of lamb, when the shoulder has been taken off. The breast
of veal consists of two parts,--the rib-bones and the gristly brisket.
These two parts should first be separated by sharply passing the knife
in the direction of the lines 1, 2; when they are entirely divided, the
rib-bones should be carved in the direction of the lines 5 to 6; and the
brisket can be helped by cutting pieces in the direction 3 to 4. The
carver should ask the guests whether they have a preference for the
brisket or ribs; and if there be a sweetbread served with the dish, as
it often is with roast breast of veal, each person should receive a
piece.
CALF'S HEAD.
[Illustration: CALF'S HEAD.]
913. This is not altogether the most easy-looking dish to cut when it is
put before a carver for the first time; there is not much real
difficulty in the operation, however, when the head has been attentively
examined, and, after the manner of a phrenologist, you get to know its
bumps, good and bad. In the first place, inserting the knife quite down
to the bone, cut slices in the direction of the line 1 to 2; with each
of these should be helped a piece of what is called the throat
sweetbread, cut in the direction of from 3 to 4. The eye, and the flesh
round, are favourite morsels with many, and should be given to those at
the table who are known to be the greatest connoisseurs. The jawbone
being removed, there will then be found some nice lean; and the palate,
which is reckoned by some a tit-bit, lies under the head. On a separate
dish there is always served the tongue and brains, and each guest should
be asked to take some of these.
FILLET OF VEAL.
[Illustration: FILLET OF VEAL.]
914. The carving of this joint is similar to that of a round of beef.
Slices, not too thick, in the direction of the line 1 to 2 are cut; and
the only point to be careful about is, that the veal be _evenly_ carved.
Between the flap and the meat the stuffing is inserted, and a small
portion of this should be served to every guest. The persons whom the
host wishes most to honour should be asked if they like the delicious
brown outside slice, as this, by many, is exceedingly relished.
KNUCKLE OF VEAL.
[Illustration: KNUCKLE OF VEAL.]
915. The engraving, showing the dotted line from 1 to 2, sufficiently
indicates the direction which should be given to the knife in carving
this dish. The best slices are those from the thickest part of the
knuckle, that is, outside the line 1 to 2.
LOIN OF VEAL.
[Illustration: LOIN OF VEAL.]
916. As is the case with a loin of mutton, the careful jointing of a
loin of veal is more than half the battle in carving it. If the butcher
be negligent in this matter, he should be admonished; for there is
nothing more annoying or irritating to an inexperienced carver than to
be obliged to turn his knife in all directions to find the exact place
where it should be inserted in order to divide the bones. When the
jointing is properly performed, there is little difficulty in carrying
the knife down in the direction of the line 1 to 2. To each guest should
be given a piece of the kidney and kidney fat, which lie underneath, and
are considered great delicacies.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]