CHAPTER XVIII.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE CALF.

845. ANY REMARKS MADE ON THE CALF OR THE LAMB must naturally be in a

measure supplementary to the more copious observations made on the

parent stock of either. As the calf, at least as far as it is identified

with veal, is destined to die young,--to be, indeed, cut off in its

comparative infancy,--it may, at first sight, appear of little or no

consequence to inquire to what particular variety, or breed of the

general stock, his sire or dam may belong. The great art, however, in

the modern science of husbandry has been to obtain an animal that shall

not only have the utmost beauty of form of which the species is capable,

but, at the same time, a constitution free from all taint, a frame that

shall rapidly attain bulk and stature, and a disposition so kindly that

every _quantum_ of food it takes shall, without drawback or

procrastination, be eliminated into fat and muscle. The breed, then, is

of very considerable consequence in determining, not only the quality of

the meat to the consumer, but its commercial value to the breeder and

butcher.

846. UNDER THE ARTIFICIAL SYSTEM adopted in the rearing of domestic

cattle, and stock in general, to gratify the arbitrary mandates of

luxury and fashion, we can have veal, like lamb, at all seasons in the

market, though the usual time in the metropolis for veal to make its

appearance is about the beginning of February.

847. THE COW GOES WITH YOUNG FOR NINE MONTHS, and the affection and

solicitude she evinces for her offspring is more human in its tenderness

mid intensity than is displayed by any other animal; and her distress

when she hears its bleating, and is not allowed to reach it with her

distended udders, is often painful to witness, and when the calf has

died, or been accidentally killed, her grief frequently makes her refuse

to give down her milk. At such times, the breeder has adopted the

expedient of flaying the dead carcase, and, distending the skin with

hay, lays the effigy before her, and then taking advantage of her

solicitude, milks her while she is caressing the skin with her tongue.

848. IN A STATE OF NATURE, the cow, like the deer, hides her young in

the tall ferns and brakes, and the most secret places; and only at

stated times, twice or thrice a day, quits the herd, and, hastening to

the secret cover, gives suck to her calf, and with the same,

circumspection returns to the community.

849. IN SOME COUNTRIES, to please the epicurean taste of vitiated

appetites, it is the custom to kill the calf for food almost immediately

after birth, and any accident that forestalls that event, is considered

to enhance its value. We are happy to say, however, that in this

country, as far as England and Scotland are concerned, the taste for

very young veal has entirely gone out, and "Staggering Bob," as the poor

little animal was called in the language of the shambles, is no longer

to be met with in such a place.

850. THE WEANING OF CALVES is a process that requires a great amount of

care and judgment; for though they are in reality not weaned till

between the eighth and the twelfth week, the process of rearing them by

hand commences in fact from the birth, the calf never being allowed to

suck its dam. As the rearing of calves for the market is a very

important and lucrative business, the breeder generally arranges his

stock so that ten or a dozen of his cows shall calve about the same

time; and then, by setting aside one or two, to find food for the entire

family, gets the remaining eight or ten with their full fountains of

milk, to carry on the operations of his dairy. Some people have an idea

that skimmed milk, if given in sufficient quantity, is good enough for

the weaning period of calf-feeding; but this is a very serious mistake,

for the cream, of which it has been deprived, contained nearly all the

oleaginous principles, and the azote or nitrogen, on which the vivifying

properties of that fluid depends. Indeed, so remarkably correct has this

fact proved to be, that a calf reared on one part of new milk mixed with

five of water, will thrive and look well; while another, treated with

unlimited skimmed milk, will be poor, thin, and miserable.

851. IT IS SOMETIMES A MATTER OF CONSIDERABLE TROUBLE to induce the

blundering calf--whose instinct only teaches him to suck, and that he

will do at anything and with anything--acquire the knowledge of

imbibition, that for the first few days it is often necessary to fill a

bottle with milk, and, opening his mouth, pour the contents down his

throat. The manner, however, by which he is finally educated into the

mystery of suction, is by putting his allowance of milk into a large

wooden bowl; the nurse then puts her hand into the milk, and, by bending

her fingers upwards, makes a rude teat for the calf to grasp in his

lips, when the vacuum caused by his suction of the fingers, causes the

milk to rise along them into his mouth. In this manner one by one the

whole family are to be fed three times a day; care being taken, that

new-born calves are not, at first, fed on milk from a cow who has some

days calved.

852. AS THE CALF PROGRESSES TOWARDS HIS TENTH WEEK, his diet requires to

be increased in quantity and quality; for these objects, his milk can be

thickened with flour or meal, and small pieces of softened oil-cake are

to be slipped into his mouth after sucking, that they may dissolve

there, till he grows familiar with, and to like the taste, when it may

be softened and scraped down into his milk-and-water. After a time,

sliced turnips softened by steam are to be given to him in tolerable

quantities; then succulent grasses; and finally, hay may be added to the

others. Some farmers, desirous of rendering their calves fat for the

butcher in as short a time as possible, forget both the natural weakness

of the digestive powers, and the contracted volume of the stomach, and

allow the animals either to suck _ad libitum_, or give them, if brought

up at the pail or by hand, a larger quantity of milk than they can

digest. The idea of overloading the stomach never suggests itself to

their minds. They suppose that the more food the young creature

consumes, the sooner it will be fat, and they allow it no exercise

whatever, for fear it should denude its very bones of their flesh. Under

such circumstances, the stomach soon becomes deranged; its functions are

no longer capable of acting; the milk, subjected to the acid of the

stomach, coagulates, and forms a hardened mass of curd, when the muscles

become affected with spasms, and death frequently ensues.

853. THERE WAS NO SPECIES OF SLAUGHTERING practised in this country so

inhuman and disgraceful as that, till very lately, employed in killing

this poor animal; when, under the plea of making the flesh _white_, the

calf was bled day by day, till, when the final hour came, the animal was

unable to stand. This inhumanity is, we believe, now everywhere

abolished, and the calf is at once killed, and with the least amount of

pain; a sharp-pointed knife is run through the neck, severing all the

large veins and arteries up to the vertebrae. The skin is then taken off

to the knee, which is disjointed, and to the head, which is removed; it

is then reflected backwards, and the carcase having been opened and

dressed, is kept apart by stretchers, and the thin membrane, the caul,

extended over the organs left in the carcase, as the kidneys and

sweet-bread; some melted fat is then scattered suddenly over the whole

interior, giving that white and frosted appearance to the meat, that is

thought to add to its beauty; the whole is then hung up to cool and

harden.

854. THE MANNER OF CUTTING UP VEAL for the English market is to divide

the carcase into four quarters, with eleven ribs to each fore quarter;

which are again subdivided into joints as exemplified on the cut.

[Illustration: SIDE OF A CALF, SHOWING THE SEVERAL JOINTS.]

_Hind quarter_:--

1. The loin.

2. The chump, consisting of the rump

and hock-bone.

3. The fillet.

4. The hock, or hind knuckle.

_Fore quarter_:--

5. The shoulder.

6. The neck.

7. The breast.

8. The fore knuckle.

855. THE SEVERAL PARTS OF A MODERATELY-SIZED WELL-FED CALF, about eight

weeks old, are nearly of the following weights:--loin and chump 18 lbs.,

fillet 12-1/2 lbs., hind knuckle 5-1/2 lbs., shoulder 11 lbs, neck 11

lbs., breast 9 lbs., and fore knuckle 5 lbs.; making a total of 144 lbs.

weight. The London mode of cutting the carcase is considered better than

that pursued in Edinburgh, as giving three roasting joints, and one

boiling, in each quarter; besides the pieces being more equally divided,

as regards flesh, and from the handsomer appearance they make on the

table.

RECIPES.

The Book of Household Management · 第 21 / 52 章