is, from the beginning of September to the end of October.
PICKLES.--The ancient Greeks and Romans held their pickles in
high estimation. They consisted of flowers, herbs, roots, and
vegetables, preserved in vinegar, and which were kept, for a
long time, in cylindrical vases with wide mouths. Their cooks
prepared pickles with the greatest care, and the various
ingredients were macerated in oil, brine, and vinegar, with
which they were often impregnated drop by drop. Meat, also,
after having been cut into very small pieces, was treated in the
same manner.
ITALIAN SAUCE (Brown).
453. INGREDIENTS.--A few chopped mushrooms and shalots, 1/2 pint of
stock, No. 105, 1/2 glass of Madeira, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2
teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley.
_Mode_.--Put the stock into a stewpan with the mushrooms, shalots, and
Madeira, and stew gently for 1/4 hour, then add the remaining
ingredients, and let them just boil. When the sauce is done enough, put
it in another stewpan, and warm it in a _bain marie_. (_See_ No. 430.)
The mushrooms should not be chopped long before they are wanted, as they
will then become black.
_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d.
_Sufficient_ for a small dish.
ITALIAN SAUCE (White).
454. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107; 2 tablespoonfuls of
chopped mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped shalots, 1 slice of ham,
minced very fine; 1/4 pint of Béchamel, No. 367; salt to taste, a few
drops of garlic vinegar, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, a squeeze of
lemon-juice.
_Mode_.--Put the shalots and mushrooms into a stewpan with the stock and
ham, and simmer very gently for 1/2 hour, when add the Béchamel. Let it
just boil up, and then strain it through a tammy; season with the above
ingredients, and serve very hot. If this sauce should not have retained
a nice white colour, a little cream may be added.
_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 10d.
_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized dish.
_Note_.--To preserve the colour of the mushrooms after pickling, throw
them into water to which a little lemon-juice has been added.
TO PICKLE LEMONS WITH THE PEEL ON.
455. INGREDIENTS.--6 lemons, 2 quarts of boiling water; to each quart of
vinegar allow 1/2 oz. of cloves, 1/2 oz. of white pepper, 1 oz. of
bruised ginger, 1/4 oz. of mace and chilies, 1 oz. of mustard-seed, 1/2
stick of sliced horseradish, a few cloves of garlic.
_Mode_.--Put the lemons into a brine that will bear an egg; let them
remain in it 6 days, stirring them every day; have ready 2 quarts of
boiling water, put in the lemons, and allow them to boil for 1/4 hour;
take them out, and let them lie in a cloth until perfectly dry and cold.
Boil up sufficient vinegar to cover the lemons, with all the above
ingredients, allowing the same proportion as stated to each quart of
vinegar. Pack the lemons in a jar, pour over the vinegar, &c. boiling
hot, and tie down with a bladder. They will be fit for use in about 12
months, or rather sooner.
_Seasonable_.--This should be made from November to April.
THE LEMON.--In the earlier ages of the world, the lemon does not
appear to have been at all known, and the Romans only became
acquainted with it at a very late period, and then only used it
to keep moths from their garments. Its acidity would seem to
have been unpleasant to them; and in Pliny's time, at the
commencement of the Christian era, this fruit was hardly
accepted, otherwise than as an excellent antidote against the
effects of poison. Many anecdotes have been related concerning
the anti-venomous properties of the lemon; Athenaeus, a Latin
writer, telling us, that on one occasion, two men felt no
effects from the bites of dangerous serpents, because they had
previously eaten of this fruit.
TO PICKLE LEMONS WITHOUT THE PEEL.
456. INGREDIENTS.--6 lemons, 1 lb. of fine salt; to each quart of
vinegar, the same ingredients as No. 455.
_Mode_.--Peel the lemons, slit each one down 3 times, so as not to
divide them, and rub the salt well into the divisions; place them in a
pan, where they must remain for a week, turning them every other day;
then put them in a Dutch oven before a clear fire until the salt has
become perfectly dry; then arrange them in a jar. Pour over sufficient
boiling vinegar to cover them, to which have been added the ingredients
mentioned in the foregoing recipe; tie down closely, and in about 9
months they will be fit for use.
_Seasonable_.--The best time to make this is from November to April.
_Note_.--After this pickle has been made from 4 to 5 months, the liquor
may be strained and bottled, and will be found an excellent lemon
ketchup.
LEMON-JUICE.--Citric acid is the principal component part of
lemon-juice, which, in addition to the agreeableness of its
flavour, is also particularly cooling and grateful. It is
likewise an antiscorbutic; and this quality enhances its value.
In order to combat the fatal effects of scurvy amongst the crews
of ships at sea, a regular allowance of lemon-juice is served
out to the men; and by this practice, the disease has almost
entirely disappeared. By putting the juice into bottles, and
pouring on the top sufficient oil to cover it, it may be
preserved for a considerable time. Italy and Turkey export great
quantities of it in this manner.
LEMON SAUCE FOR BOILED FOWLS.
457. INGREDIENTS.--1 small lemon, 3/4 pint of melted butter, No. 380.
_Mode_.--Cut the lemon into very thin slices, and these again into very
small dice. Have ready 3/4 pint of melted butter, made by recipe No.
380; put in the lemon; let it just simmer, but not boil, and pour it
over the fowls.
_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, 6d.
_Sufficient_ for a pair of large fowls.
LEMON WHITE SAUCE, FOR FOWLS, FRICASSEES, &c.
458. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 pint of cream, the rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1/2
teaspoonful of whole white pepper, 1 sprig of lemon thyme, 3 oz. of
butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 teacupful of white stock; salt to
taste.
_Mode_.--Put the cream into a very clean saucepan (a lined one is best),
with the lemon-peel, pepper, and thyme, and let these infuse for 1/2
hour, when simmer gently for a few minutes, or until there is a nice
flavour of lemon. Strain it, and add a thickening of butter and flour in
the above proportions; stir this well in, and put in the lemon-juice at
the moment of serving; mix the stock with the cream, and add a little
salt. This sauce should not boil after the cream and stock are mixed
together.
_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.
_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a pair of large boiled fowls.
_Note_.--Where the expense of the cream is objected to, milk may be
substituted for it. In this case, an additional dessertspoonful, or
rather more, of flour must be added.
[Illustration: LEMON THYME.]
LEMON THYME.--Two or three tufts of this species of thyme,
_Thymus citriodorus_, usually find a place in the herb
compartment of the kitchen-garden. It is a trailing evergreen,
is of smaller growth than the common kind (_see_ No. 166), and
is remarkable for its smell, which closely resembles that of the
rind of a lemon. Hence its distinctive name. It is used for some
particular dishes, in which the fragrance of the lemon is
desired to slightly predominate.
LEAMINGTON SAUCE (an Excellent Sauce for Flavouring Gravies, Hashes,
Soups, &c.).
_(Author's Recipe.)_
459. INGREDIENTS.--Walnuts. To each quart of walnut-juice allow 3 quarts
of vinegar, 1 pint of Indian soy, 1 oz. of cayenne, 2 oz. of shalots,
3/4 oz. of garlic, 1/2 pint of port wine.
_Mode_.--Be very particular in choosing the walnuts as soon as they
appear in the market; for they are more easily bruised before they
become hard and shelled. Pound them in a mortar to a pulp, strew some
salt over them, and let them remain thus for two or three days,
occasionally stirring and moving them about. Press out the juice, and to
_each quart_ of walnut-liquor allow the above proportion of vinegar,
soy, cayenne, shalots, garlic, and port wine. Pound each ingredient
separately in a mortar, then mix them well together, and store away for
use in small bottles. The corks should be well sealed.
_Seasonable_.--This sauce should be made as soon as walnuts are
obtainable, from the beginning to the middle of July.
LEMON BRANDY.
460. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of brandy, the rind of two small lemons, 2 oz.
of loaf-sugar, 1/4 pint of water.
_Mode_.--Peel the lemons rather thin, taking care to have none of the
white pith. Put the rinds into a bottle with the brandy, and let them
infuse for 24 hours, when they should be strained. Now boil the sugar
with the water for a few minutes, skim it, and, when cold, add it to the
brandy. A dessertspoonful of this will be found an excellent flavouring
for boiled custards.
LEMON RIND OR PEEL.--This contains an essential oil of a very
high flavour and fragrance, and is consequently esteemed both a
wholesome and agreeable stomachic. It is used, as will be seen
by many recipes in this book, as an ingredient for flavouring a
number of various dishes. Under the name of CANDIED LEMON-PEEL,
it is cleared of the pulp and preserved by sugar, when it
becomes an excellent sweetmeat. By the ancient medical
philosopher Galen, and others, it may be added, that dried
lemon-peel was considered as one of the best digestives, and
recommended to weak and delicate persons.
LIAISON OF EGGS FOR THICKENING SAUCES.
461. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 3 eggs, 8 tablespoonfuls of milk or
cream.
_Mode_.--Beat up the yolks of the eggs, to which add the milk, and
strain the whole through a hair-sieve. When the liaison is being added
to the sauce it is intended to thicken, care must be exercised to keep
stirring it during the whole time, or, otherwise, the eggs will curdle.
It should only just simmer, but not boil.
LIVER AND LEMON SAUCE FOR POULTRY.
462. INGREDIENTS.--The liver of a fowl, one lemon, salt to taste, 1/2
pint of melted butter. No. 376.
_Mode_.--Wash the liver, and let it boil for a few minutes; peel the
lemon very thin, remove the white part and pips, and cut it into very
small dice; mince the liver and a small quantity of the lemon rind very
fine; add these ingredients to 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter;
season with a little salt, put in the cut lemon, heat it gradually, but
do not allow it to boil, lest the butter should oil.
_Time_.--1 minute to simmer.
_Sufficient_ to serve with a pair of small fowls.
LIVER AND PARSLEY SAUCE FOR POULTRY.
463. INGREDIENTS.--The liver of a fowl, one tablespoonful of minced
parsley, 1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376.
_Mode_.--Wash and score the liver, boil it for a few minutes, and mince
it very fine; blanch or scald a small bunch of parsley, of which there
should be sufficient when chopped to fill a tablespoon; add this, with
the minced liver, to 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter; let it
just boil; when serve.
_Time_.--1 minute to simmer.
_Sufficient_ for a pair of small fowls.
LOBSTER SAUCE, to serve with Turbot, Salmon, Brill, &c.
(_Very Good_.)
464. INGREDIENTS.--1 middling-sized hen lobster, 3/4 pint of melted
butter, No. 376; 1 tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, 1/2 oz. of butter,
salt and cayenne to taste, a little pounded mace when liked, 2 or 3
tablespoonfuls of cream.
_Mode_.--Choose a hen lobster, as this is indispensable, in order to
render this sauce as good as it ought to be. Pick the meat from the
shells, and cut it into small square pieces; put the spawn, which will
be found under the tail of the lobster, into a mortar with 1/2 oz. of
butter, and pound it quite smooth; rub it through a hair-sieve, and
cover up till wanted. Make 3/4 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 376;
put in all the ingredients except the lobster-meat, and well mix the
sauce before the lobster is added to it, as it should retain its square
form, and not come to table shredded and ragged. Put in the meat, let it
get thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, as the colour would
immediately be spoiled; for it should be remembered that this sauce
should always have a bright red appearance. If it is intended to be
served with turbot or brill, a little of the spawn (dried and rubbed
through a sieve without butter) should be saved to garnish with; but as
the goodness, flavour, and appearance of the sauce so much depend on
having a proper quantity of spawn, the less used for garnishing the
better.
_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ to serve with a small turbot, a brill, or salmon for 6
persons.
_Note_.--Melted butter made with milk, No. 380, will be found to answer
very well for lobster sauce, as by employing it a nice white colour will
be obtained. Less quantity than the above may be made by using a very
small lobster, to which add only 1/2 pint of melted butter, and season
as above. Where economy is desired, the cream may be dispensed with, and
the remains of a cold lobster left from table, may, with a little care,
be converted into a very good sauce.
MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER, for putting into Broiled Fish just before it is
sent to Table.
465. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of minced
parsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice of 1 large lemon.
_Mode_.--Work the above ingredients well together, and let them be
thoroughly mixed with a wooden spoon. If this is used as a sauce, it may
be poured either under or over the meat or fish it is intended to be
served with.
_Average cost_, for this quantity, 5d.
Note.--4 tablespoonfuls of Béchamel, No. 367, 2 do. of white stock, No.
107, with 2 oz. of the above maître d'hôtel butter stirred into it, and
just allowed to simmer for 1 minute, will be found an excellent hot
maître d'hôtel sauce.
THE MAÎTRE D'HÔTEL.--The house-steward of England is synonymous
with the maître d'hôtel of France; and, in ancient times,
amongst the Latins, he was called procurator, or major-domo. In
Rome, the slaves, after they had procured the various articles
necessary for the repasts of the day, would return to the
spacious kitchen laden with meat, game, sea-fish, vegetables,
fruit, &c. Each one would then lay his basket at the feet of the
major-domo, who would examine its contents and register them on
his tablets, placing in the pantry contiguous to the
dining-room, those of the provisions which need no preparation,
and consigning the others to the more immediate care of the
cooks.
MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE (HOT), to serve with Calf's Head, Boiled Eels, and
different Fish.
466. INGREDIENTS.--1 slice of minced ham, a few poultry-trimmings, 2
shalots, 1 clove of garlic, 1 bay-leaf, 3/4 pint of water, 2 oz. of
butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 heaped tablespoonful of chopped
parsley; salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste; the juice of 1/2 large
lemon, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded sugar.
_Mode_.--Put at the bottom of a stewpan the minced ham, and over it the
poultry-trimmings (if these are not at hand, veal should be
substituted), with the shalots, garlic, and bay-leaf. Pour in the water,
and let the whole simmer gently for 1 hour, or until the liquor is
reduced to a full 1/2 pint. Then strain this gravy, put it in another
saucepan, make a thickening of butter and flour in the above
proportions, and stir it to the gravy over a nice clear fire, until it
is perfectly smooth and rather thick, care being taken that the butter
does not float on the surface. Skim well, add the remaining ingredients,
let the sauce gradually heat, but do not allow it to boil. If this sauce
is intended for an entrée, it is necessary to make it of a sufficient
thickness, so that it may adhere to what it is meant to cover.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. per pint.
_Sufficient_ for re-warming the remains of 1/2 calf's head, or a small
dish of cold flaked turbot, cod, &c.
MAIGRE MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE (HOT).
(Made without Meat.)
467. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376; 1 heaped
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice of
1/2 large lemon; when liked, 2 minced shalots.
_Mode_.--Make 1/2 pint of melted butter, by recipe No. 376; stir in the
above ingredients, and let them just boil; when it is ready to serve.
_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, 9d. per pint.
MAYONNAISE, a Sauce or Salad-Dressing for cold Chicken, Meat, and other
cold Dishes.
468. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 2 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 4
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and white pepper to taste, 1
tablespoonful of white stock, No. 107, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream.
_Mode_.--Put the yolks of the eggs into a basin, with a seasoning of
pepper and salt; have ready the above quantities of oil and vinegar, in
separate vessels; add them _very gradually_ to the eggs; continue
stirring and rubbing the mixture with a wooden spoon, as herein consists
the secret of having a nice smooth sauce. It cannot be stirred too
frequently, and it should be made in a very cool place, or, if ice is at
hand, it should be mixed over it. When the vinegar and oil are well
incorporated with the eggs, add the stock and cream, stirring all the
time, and it will then be ready for use.
For a fish Mayonnaise, this sauce may be coloured with lobster-spawn,
pounded; and for poultry or meat, where variety is desired, a little
parsley-juice may be used to add to its appearance. Cucumber, Tarragon,
or any other flavoured vinegar, may be substituted for plain, where they
are liked.
_Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d.
_Sufficient_ for a small salad.
_Note_.--In mixing the oil and vinegar with the eggs, put in first a few
drops of oil, and then a few drops of vinegar, never adding a large
quantity of either at one time. By this means, you can be more certain
of the sauce not curdling. Patience and practice, let us add, are two
essentials for making this sauce good.
MINT SAUCE, to serve with Roast Lamb.
469. INGREDIENTS.--4 dessertspoonfuls of chopped mint, 2
dessertspoonfuls of pounded white sugar, 1/4 pint of vinegar.
_Mode_.--Wash the mint, which should be young and fresh-gathered, free
from grit; pick the leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine, and
put them into a tureen; add the sugar and vinegar, and stir till the
former is dissolved. This sauce is better by being made 2 or 3 hours
before wanted for table, as the vinegar then becomes impregnated with
the flavour of the mint. By many persons, the above proportion of sugar
would not be considered sufficient; but as tastes vary, we have given
the quantity which we have found to suit the general palate.
_Average cost_, 3d.
_Sufficient_ to serve with a middling-sized joint of lamb.
_Note_.--Where green mint is scarce and not obtainable, mint vinegar may
be substituted for it, and will be found very acceptable in early
spring.
[Illustration: MINT.]
MINT.--The common mint cultivated in our gardens is known as the
_Mentha viridis_, and is employed in different culinary
processes, being sometimes boiled with certain dishes, and
afterwards withdrawn. It has an agreeable aromatic flavour, and
forms an ingredient in soups, and sometimes is used in spring
salads. It is valuable as a stomachic and antispasmodic; on
which account it is generally served at table with pea-soup.
Several of its species grow wild in low situations in the
country.
MINT VINEGAR.
470. INGREDIENTS.--Vinegar, mint.
_Mode_.--Procure some nice fresh mint, pick the leaves from the stalks,
and fill a bottle or jar with them. Add vinegar to them until the bottle
is full; _cover closely_ to exclude the air, and let it infuse for a
fortnight. Then strain the liquor, and put it into small bottles for
use, of which the corks should be sealed.
_Seasonable_.--This should be made in June, July, or August.
MIXED PICKLE.
(_Very Good_.)
471. INGREDIENTS.--To each gallon of vinegar allow 1/4 lb. of bruised
ginger, 1/4 lb. of mustard, 1/4 lb. of salt, 2 oz. of mustard-seed,
1-1/2 oz. of turmeric, 1 oz. of ground black pepper, 1/4 oz. of cayenne,
cauliflowers, onions, celery, sliced cucumbers, gherkins, French beans,
nasturtiums, capsicums.
_Mode_.--Have a large jar, with a tightly-fitting lid, in which put as
much vinegar as required, reserving a little to mix the various powders
to a smooth paste. Put into a basin the mustard, turmeric, pepper, and
cayenne; mix them with vinegar, and stir well until no lumps remain; add
all the ingredients to the vinegar, and mix well. Keep this liquor in a
warm place, and thoroughly stir every morning for a month with a wooden
spoon, when it will be ready for the different vegetables to be added to
it. As these come into season, have them gathered on a dry day, and,
after merely wiping them with a cloth, to free them from moisture, put
them into the pickle. The cauliflowers, it may be said, must be divided
into small bunches. Put all these into the pickle raw, and at the end of
the season, when there have been added as many of the vegetables as
could be procured, store it away in jars, and tie over with bladder. As
none of the ingredients are boiled, this pickle will not be fit to eat
till 12 months have elapsed. Whilst the pickle is being made, keep a
wooden spoon tied to the jar; and its contents, it may be repeated, must
be stirred every morning.
_Seasonable_.--Make the pickle-liquor in May or June, as the season
arrives for the various vegetables to be picked.
MUSHROOM KETCHUP.
472. INGREDIENTS.--To each peck of mushrooms 1/2 lb. of salt; to each
quart of mushroom-liquor 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 1/2 oz. of allspice, 1/2
oz. of ginger, 2 blades of pounded mace.
_Mode_.--Choose full-grown mushroom-flaps, and take care they are
perfectly _fresh-gathered_ when the weather is tolerably dry; for, if
they are picked during very heavy rain, the ketchup from which they are
made is liable to get musty, and will not keep long. Put a layer of them
in a deep pan, sprinkle salt over them, and then another layer of
mushrooms, and so on alternately. Let them remain for a few hours, when
break them up with the hand; put them in a nice cool place for 3 days,
occasionally stirring and mashing them well, to extract from them as
much juice as possible. Now measure the quantity of liquor without
straining, and to each quart allow the above proportion of spices, &c.
Put all into a stone jar, cover it up very closely, put it in a saucepan
of boiling water, set it over the fire, and let it boil for 3 hours.
Have ready a nice clean stewpan; turn into it the contents of the jar,
and let the whole simmer very gently for 1/2 hour; pour it into a jug,
where it should stand in a cool place till the next day; then pour it
off into another jug, and strain it into very dry clean bottles, and do
not squeeze the mushrooms. To each pint of ketchup add a few drops of
brandy. Be careful not to shake the contents, but leave all the sediment
behind in the jug; cork well, and either seal or rosin the cork, so as
perfectly to exclude the air. When a very clear bright ketchup is
wanted, the liquor must be strained through a very fine hair-sieve, or
flannel bag, _after_ it has been very gently poured off; if the
operation is not successful, it must be repeated until you have quite a
clear liquor. It should be examined occasionally, and if it is spoiling,
should be reboiled with a few peppercorns.
_Seasonable_ from the beginning of September to the middle of October,
when this ketchup should be made.
_Note_.--This flavouring ingredient, if genuine and well prepared, is
one of the most useful store sauces to the experienced cook, and no
trouble should be spared in its preparation. Double ketchup is made by
reducing the liquor to half the quantity; for example, 1 quart must be
boiled down to 1 pint. This goes farther than ordinary ketchup, as so
little is required to flavour a good quantity of gravy. The sediment may
also be bottled for immediate use, and will be found to answer for
flavouring thick soups or gravies.
HOW TO DISTINGUISH MUSHROOMS FROM TOADSTOOLS.--The cultivated
mushroom, known as _Agaricus campestris_, may be distinguished
from other poisonous kinds of fungi by its having pink or
flesh-coloured gills, or under-side, and by its invariably
having an agreeable smell, which the toadstool has not. When
young, mushrooms are like a small round button, both the stalk
and head being white. As they grow larger, they expand their
heads by degrees into a flat form, the gills underneath being at
first of a pale flesh-colour, but becoming, as they stand
longer, dark brown or blackish. Nearly all the poisonous kinds
are brown, and have in general a rank and putrid smell. Edible
mushrooms are found in closely-fed pastures, but seldom grow in
woods, where most of the poisonous sorts are to be found.
TO DRY MUSHROOMS.
473. _Mode_.--Wipe them clean, take away the brown part, and peel off
the skin; lay them on sheets of paper to dry, in a cool oven, when they
will shrivel considerably. Keep them in paper bags, which hang in a dry
place. When wanted for use, put them into cold gravy, bring them
gradually to simmer, and it will be found that they will regain nearly
their usual size.
[Illustration: THE MUSHROOM.]
THE MUSHROOM.--The cultivated or garden mushroom is a species of
fungus, which, in England, is considered the best, and is there
usually eaten. The tribe, however, is numerous, and a large
proportion of them are poisonous; hence it is always dangerous
to make use of mushrooms gathered in their wild state. In some
parts of Europe, as in Germany, Russia, and Poland, many species
grow wild, and are used as food; but in Britain, two only are
generally eaten. These are mostly employed for the flavouring of
dishes, and are also dried and pickled. CATSUP, or KETCHUP, is
made from them by mixing spices and salt with their juice. The
young, called buttons, are the best for pickling when in the
globular form.
BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Roast Meat, &c.
474. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of button mushrooms, 1/2 pint of good beef
gravy, No. 435, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup (if at hand),
thickening of butter and flour.
_Mode_.--Put the gravy into a saucepan, thicken it, and stir over the
fire until it boils. Prepare the mushrooms by cutting off the stalks and
wiping them free from grit and dirt; the large flap mushrooms cut into
small pieces will answer for a brown sauce, when the buttons are not
obtainable; put them into the gravy, and let them simmer very gently for
about 10 minutes; then add the ketchup, and serve.
_Time_.--Rather more than 10 minutes.
_Seasonable_ from August to October.
_Note_.--When fresh mushrooms are not obtainable, the powder No. 477 may
be used as a substitute for brown sauce.
WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Boiled Fowls, Cutlets, &c.
I.
475. INGREDIENTS.--Rather more than 1/2 pint of button mushrooms,
lemon-juice and water, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of Béchamel, No. 367,
1/4 teaspoonful of pounded sugar.
_Mode_.--Turn the mushrooms white by putting them into lemon-juice and
water, having previously cut off the stalks and wiped them perfectly
free from grit. Chop them, and put them in a stewpan with the butter.
When the mushrooms are softened, add the Béchamel, and simmer for about
5 minutes; should they, however, not be done enough, allow rather more
time. They should not boil longer than necessary, as they would then
lose their colour and flavour. Rub the whole through a tammy, and serve
very hot. After this, it should be warmed in a bain marie.
_Time_.--Altogether, 1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 1s.
_Seasonable_ from August to October.
II.
_A More Simple Method_.
476. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of melted butter, made with milk, No. 380;
1/2 pint of button mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, if
at hand; cayenne and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Make the melted butter by recipe No. 380, and add to it the
mushrooms, which must be nicely cleaned, and free from grit, and the
stalks cut off. Let them simmer gently for about 10 minutes, or until
they are quite tender. Put in the seasoning and ketchup; let it just
boil, when serve.
_Time_.--Rather more than 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 8d.
_Seasonable_ from August to October.
GROWTH OF THE MUSHROOM AND OTHER FUNGI.--The quick growth of the
mushroom and other fungi is no less wonderful than the length of
time they live, and the numerous dangers they resist while they
continue in the dormant state. To spring up "like a mushroom in
a night" is a scriptural mode of expressing celerity; and this
completely accords with all the observations which have been
made concerning this curious class of plants. Mr. Sowerby
remarks--"I have often placed specimens of the _Phallus caninus_
by a window over-night, while in the egg-form, and they have
been fully grown by the morning."
MUSHROOM POWDER (a valuable addition to Sauces and Gravies, when fresh
Mushrooms are not obtainable).
477. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 peck of large mushrooms, 2 onions, 12 cloves, 1/4
oz. of pounded mace, 2 teaspoonfuls of white pepper.
_Mode_.--Peel the mushrooms, wipe them perfectly free from grit and
dirt, remove the black fur, and reject all those that are at all
worm-eaten; put them into a stewpan with the above ingredients, but
without water; shake them over a clear fire, till all the liquor is
dried up, and be careful not to let them burn; arrange them on tins, and
dry them in a slow oven; pound them to a fine powder, which put into
small _dry_ bottles; cork well, seal the corks, and keep it in a dry
place. In using this powder, add it to the gravy just before serving,
when it will merely require one boil-up. The flavour imparted by this
means to the gravy, ought to be exceedingly good.
_Seasonable_.--This should be made in September, or at the beginning of
October.
_Note_.--If the bottles in which it is stored away are not perfectly
dry, as, also the mushroom powder, it will keep good but a very short
time.
PICKLED MUSHROOMS.
478. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient vinegar to cover the mushrooms; to each
quart of mushrooms, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 oz. of ground pepper,
salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Choose some nice young button mushrooms for pickling, and rub
off the skin with a piece of flannel and salt, and cut off the stalks;
if very large, take out the red inside, and reject the black ones, as
they are too old. Put them in a stewpan, sprinkle salt over them, with
pounded mace and pepper in the above proportion; shake them well over a
clear fire until the liquor flows, and keep them there until it is all
dried up again; then add as much vinegar as will cover them; just let it
simmer for 1 minute, and store it away in stone jars for use. When cold,
tie down with bladder and keep in a dry place; they will remain good for
a length of time, and are generally considered delicious.
_Seasonable_.--Make this the same time as ketchup, from the beginning of
September to the middle of October.
NATURE OF THE MUSHROOM.--Locality has evidently a considerable
influence on the nature of the juices of the mushroom; for it
has been discovered, after fatal experience, that some species,
which are perfectly harmless when raised in open meadows and
pasturelands, become virulently poisonous when they happen to
grow in contact with stagnant water or putrescent animal and
vegetable substances. What the precise nature of the poison in
fungi may be, has not been accurately ascertained.
A VERY RICH AND GOOD MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Fowls or Rabbits.
479. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of mushroom-buttons, salt to taste, a little
grated nutmeg, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 pint of cream, 2 oz. of
butter, flour to thicken.
_Mode_.--Rub the buttons with a piece of flannel and salt, to take off
the skin; cut off the stalks, and put them in a stewpan with the above
ingredients, previously kneading together the butter and flour; boil the
whole for about ten minutes, stirring all the time. Pour some of the
sauce over the fowls, and the remainder serve in a tureen.
_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 2s.
_Sufficient_ to serve with a pair of fowls.
_Seasonable_ from August to October.
HOW TO MIX MUSTARD.
480. INGREDIENTS.--Mustard, salt, and water.
_Mode_.--Mustard should be mixed with water that has been boiled and
allowed to cool; hot water destroys its essential properties, and raw
cold water might cause it to ferment. Put the mustard in a cup, with a
small pinch of salt, and mix with it very gradually sufficient boiled
water to make it drop from the spoon without being watery. Stir and mix
well, and rub the lumps well down with the back of a spoon, as
well-mixed mustard should be perfectly free from these. The mustard-pot
should not be more than half full, or rather less if it will not be used
in a day or two, as it is so much better when freshly mixed.
TARTAR MUSTARD.
481. INGREDIENTS.--Horseradish vinegar, cayenne, 1/2 a teacupful of
mustard.
_Mode_.--Have ready sufficient horseradish vinegar to mix with the above
proportion of mustard; put the mustard in a cup, with a slight seasoning
of cayenne; mix it perfectly smooth with the vinegar, adding this a
little at a time; rub down with the back of a spoon any lumps that may
appear, and do not let it be too thin. Mustard may be flavoured in
various ways, with Tarragon, shalot, celery, and many other vinegars,
herbs, spices, &c.; but this is more customary in France than in
England, as there it is merely considered a "vehicle of flavours," as it
has been termed.
PICKLED NASTURTIUMS (a very good Substitute for Capers)
482. INGREDIENTS.--To each pint of vinegar, 1 oz. of salt, 6
peppercorns, nasturtiums.
_Mode_.--Gather the nasturtium-pods on a dry day, and wipe them clean
with a cloth; put them in a dry glass bottle, with vinegar, salt, and
pepper in the above proportion. If you cannot find enough ripe to fill a
bottle, cork up what you have got until you have some more fit: they may
be added from day to day. Bung up the bottles, and seal or rosin the
tops. They will be fit for use in 10 or 12 months; and the best way is
to make them one season for the next.
_Seasonable_.--Look for nasturtium-pods from the end of July to the end
of August.
[Illustration: NASTURTIUMS.]
NASTURTIUMS.--The elegant nasturtium-plant, called by
naturalists _Tropoeolum_, and which sometimes goes by the name
of Indian cress, came originally from Peru, but was easily made
to grow in these islands. Its young leaves and flowers are of a
slightly hot nature, and many consider them a good adjunct to
salads, to which they certainly add a pretty appearance. When
the beautiful blossoms, which may be employed with great effect
in garnishing dishes, are off, then the fruit is used as
described in the above recipe.
FRENCH ONION SAUCE, or SOUBISE.
483. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of Béchamel, No. 367, 1 bay-leaf, seasoning
to taste of pounded mace and cayenne, 6 onions, a small piece of ham.
_Mode_.--Peel the onions and cut them in halves; put them in a stewpan,
with just sufficient water to cover them, and add the bay-leaf, ham,
cayenne, and mace; be careful to keep the lid closely shut, and simmer
them until tender. Take them out and drain thoroughly; rub them through
a tammy or sieve (an old one does for the purpose) with a wooden spoon,
and put them to 1/2 pint of Béchamel; keep stirring over the fire until
it boils, when serve. If it should require any more seasoning, add it to
taste.
_Time_.--3/4 hour to boil the onions.
_Average cost_, 10d. for this quantity.
_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized dish.
WHITE ONION SAUCE, for Boiled Rabbits, Roast Shoulder of Mutton, &c.
484. INGREDIENTS.--9 large onions, or 12 middling-sized ones, 1 pint of
melted butter made with milk (No. 380), 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, or
rather more.
_Mode_.--Peel the onions and put them into water to which a little salt
has been added, to preserve their whiteness, and let them remain for 1/4
hour. Then put them in a stewpan, cover them with water, and let them
boil until tender, and, if the onions should be very strong, change the
water after they have been boiling for 1/4 hour. Drain them thoroughly,
chop them, and rub them through a tammy or sieve. Make 1 pint of melted
butter, by recipe No. 380, and when that boils, put in the onions, with
a seasoning of salt; stir it till it simmers, when it will be ready to
serve. If these directions are carefully attended to, this onion sauce
will be delicious.
_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour, to boil the onions.
_Average cost_, 9d. per pint.
_Sufficient_ to serve with a roast shoulder of mutton, or boiled rabbit.
_Seasonable_ from August to March.
_Note_.--To make this sauce very mild and delicate, use Spanish onions,
which can be procured from the beginning of September to Christmas. 2 or
3 tablespoonfuls of cream added just before serving, will be found to
improve its appearance very much. Small onions, when very young, may be
cooked whole, and served in melted butter. A sieve or tammy should be
kept expressly for onions: an old one answers the purpose, as it is
liable to retain the flavour and smell, which of course would be
excessively disagreeable in delicate preparations.
BROWN ONION SAUCE.
485. INGREDIENTS.--6 large onions, rather more than 1/2 pint of good
gravy, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste.
_Mode_.--Slice and fry the onions of a pale brown in a stewpan, with the
above quantity of butter, keeping them well stirred, that they do not
get black. When a nice colour, pour over the gravy, and let them simmer
gently until tender. Now skim off every particle of fat, add the
seasoning, and rub the whole through a tammy or sieve; put it back in
the saucepan to warm, and when it boils, serve.
_Time_.--Altogether 1 hour.
_Seasonable_ from August to March.
_Note_.--Where a very high flavouring is liked, add 1 tablespoonful of
mushroom ketchup, or a small quantity of port wine.
HISTORY OF THE ONION.--It is not supposed that any variety of
the onion is indigenous to Britain, as when the large and mild
roots imported from warmer climates, have been cultivated in
these islands a few years, they deteriorate both in size and
sweetness. It is therefore most likely that this plant was first
introduced into England from continental Europe, and that it
originally was produced in a southern climate, and has gradually
become acclimatized to a colder atmosphere. (_See_ No. 139.)
PICKLED ONIONS (a very Simple Method, and exceedingly Good).
486. INGREDIENTS.--Pickling onions; to each quart of vinegar, 2
teaspoonfuls of allspice, 2 teaspoonfuls of whole black pepper.
_Mode_.--Have the onions gathered when quite dry and ripe, and, with the
fingers, take off the thin outside skin; then, with a silver knife
(steel should not be used, as it spoils the colour of the onions),
remove one more skin, when the onion will look quite clear. Have ready
some very dry bottles or jars, and as fast as they are peeled, put them
in. Pour over sufficient cold vinegar to cover them, with pepper and
allspice in the above proportions, taking care that each jar has its
share of the latter ingredients. Tie down with bladder, and put them in
a dry place, and in a fortnight they will be fit for use. This is a most
simple recipe and very delicious, the onions being nice and crisp. They
should be eaten within 6 or 8 months after being done, as the onions are
liable to become soft.
_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of August.
PICKLED ONIONS.
487. INGREDIENTS.--1 gallon of pickling onions, salt and water, milk; to
each 1/2 gallon of vinegar, 1 oz. of bruised ginger, 1/4 teaspoonful of
cayenne, 1 oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of whole black pepper, 1/4 oz. of
whole nutmeg bruised, 8 cloves, 1/4 oz. of mace.
_Mode_.--Gather the onions, which should not be too small, when they are
quite dry and ripe; wipe off the dirt, but do not pare them; make a
strong solution of salt and water, into which put the onions, and change
this, morning and night, for 3 days, and save the _last_ brine they were
put in. Then take the outside skin off, and put them into a tin saucepan
capable of holding them all, as they are always better done together.
Now take equal quantities of milk and the last salt and water the onions
were in, and pour this to them; to this add 2 large spoonfuls of salt,
put them over the fire, and watch them very attentively. Keep constantly
turning the onions about with a wooden skimmer, those at the bottom to
the top, and _vice versâ_; and let the milk and water run through the
holes of the skimmer. Remember, the onions must never boil, or, if they
do, they will be good for nothing; and they should be quite transparent.
Keep the onions stirred for a few minutes, and, in stirring them, be
particular not to break them. Then have ready a pan with a colander,
into which turn the onions to drain, covering them with a cloth to keep
in the steam. Place on a table an old cloth, 2 or 3 times double; put
the onions on it when quite hot, and over them an old piece of blanket;
cover this closely over them, to keep in the steam. Let them remain till
the next day, when they will be quite cold, and look yellow and
shrivelled; take off the shrivelled skins, when they should be as white
as snow. Put them in a pan, make a pickle of vinegar and the remaining
ingredients, boil all these up, and pour hot over the onions in the pan.
Cover very closely to keep in all the steam, and let them stand till the
following day, when they will be quite cold. Put them into jars or
bottles well bunged, and a tablespoonful of the best olive-oil on the
top of each jar or bottle. Tie them down with bladder, and let them
stand in a cool place for a month or six weeks, when they will be fit
for use. They should be beautifully white, and eat crisp, without the
least softness, and will keep good many months.
_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of August.
ORANGE GRAVY, for Wildfowl, Widgeon, Teal, &c.
488. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107, 1 small onion, 3 or
4 strips of lemon or orange peel, a few leaves of basil, if at hand, the
juice of a Seville orange or lemon, salt and pepper to taste, 1 glass of
port wine.
_Mode_.--Put the onion, cut in slices, into a stewpan with the stock,
orange-peel, and basil, and let them simmer very gently for 1/4 hour or
rather longer, should the gravy not taste sufficiently of the peel.
Strain it off, and add to the gravy the remaining ingredients; let the
whole heat through, and, when on the point of boiling, serve very hot in
a tureen which should have a cover to it.
_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour.
_Sufficient_ for a small tureen.
OYSTER FORCEMEAT, for Roast or Boiled Turkey.
489. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of bread crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. of chopped suet
or butter, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, 1/4 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg,
salt and pepper to taste, 2 eggs, 18 oysters.
_Mode_.--Grate the bread very fine, and be careful that no large lumps
remain; put it into a basin with the suet, which must be very finely
minced, or, when butter is used, that must be cut up into small pieces.
Add the herbs, also chopped as small as possible, and seasoning; mix all
these well together, until the ingredients are thoroughly mingled. Open
and beard the oysters, chop them, but not too small, and add them to the
other ingredients. Beat up the eggs, and, with the hand, work
altogether, until it is smoothly mixed. The turkey should not be stuffed
too full: if there should be too much forcemeat, roll it into balls, fry
them, and use them as a garnish.
_Sufficient_ for 1 turkey.
OYSTER KETCHUP.
490. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient oysters to fill a pint measure, 1 pint of
sherry, 3 oz. of salt, 1 drachm of cayenne, 2 drachms of pounded mace.
_Mode_.--Procure the oysters very fresh, and open sufficient to fill a
pint measure; save the liquor, and scald the oysters in it with the
sherry; strain the oysters, and put them in a mortar with the salt,
cayenne, and mace; pound the whole until reduced to a pulp, then add it
to the liquor in which they were scalded; boil it again five minutes,
and skim well; rub the whole through a sieve, and, when cold, bottle and
cork closely. The corks should be sealed.
_Seasonable_ from September to April.
_Note_.--Cider may be substituted for the sherry.
PICKLED OYSTERS.
491. INGREDIENTS.--100 oysters; to each 1/2 pint of vinegar, 1 blade of
pounded mace, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 12 black peppercorns.
_Mode_.--Get the oysters in good condition, open them, place them in a
saucepan, and let them simmer in their own liquor for about 10 minutes,
very gently; then take them out, one by one, and place them in a jar,
and cover them, when cold, with a pickle made as follows:--Measure the
oyster-liquor; add to it the same quantity of vinegar, with mace,
lemon-peel, and pepper in the above proportion, and boil it for 5
minutes; when cold, pour over the oysters, and tie them down very
closely, as contact with the air spoils them.
_Seasonable_ from September to April.
_Note_.--Put this pickle away in small jars; because directly one is
opened, its contents should immediately be eaten, as they soon spoil.
The pickle should not be kept more than 2 or 3 months.
OYSTER SAUCE, to serve with Fish, Boiled Poultry, &c.
492. INGREDIENTS.--3 dozen oysters, 1/2 pint of melted butter, made with
milk, No. 380.
_Mode_.--Open the oysters carefully, and save their liquor; strain it
into a clean saucepan (a lined one is best), put in the oysters, and let
them just come to the boiling-point, when they should look plump. Take
them off the fire immediately, and put the whole into a basin. Strain
the liquor from them, mix with it sufficient milk to make 1/2 pint
altogether, and follow the directions of No. 380. When the melted butter
is ready and very smooth, put in the oysters, which should be previously
bearded, if you wish the sauce to be really nice. Set it by the side of
the fire to get thoroughly hot, _but do not allow it to boil_, or the
oysters will immediately harden. Using cream instead of milk makes this
sauce extremely delicious. When liked, add a seasoning of cayenne, or
anchovy sauce; but, as we have before stated, a plain sauce _should_ be
plain, and not be overpowered by highly-flavoured essences; therefore we
recommend that the above directions be implicitly followed, and no
seasoning added.
_Average cost_ for this quantity, 2s.
_Sufficient_ for 6 persons. Never allow fewer than 6 oysters to 1
person, unless the party is very large.
_Seasonable_ from September to April.
A more economical sauce may be made by using a smaller quantity of
oysters, and not bearding them before they are added to the sauce: this
may answer the purpose, but we cannot undertake to recommend it as a
mode of making this delicious adjunct to fish, &c.
PARSLEY AND BUTTER, to serve with Calf's Head. Boiled Fowls, &c.
493. INGREDIENTS.--2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, 1/2 pint of
melted butter, No. 376.
_Mode_.--Put into a saucepan a small quantity of water, slightly salted,
and when it boils, throw in a good bunch of parsley which has been
previously washed and tied together in a bunch; let it boil for 5
minutes, drain it, mince the leaves very fine, and put the above
quantity in a tureen; pour over it 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted
butter; stir once, that the ingredients may be thoroughly mixed, and
serve.
_Time_.--5 minutes to boil the parsley. _Average cost_, 4d.
_Sufficient_ for 1 large fowl; allow rather more for a pair.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--Sometimes, in the middle of winter, parsley-leaves are not to
be had, when the following will be found an excellent substitute:--Tie
up a little parsley-seed in a small piece of muslin, and boil it for 10
minutes in a small quantity of water; use this water to make the melted
butter with, and throw into it a little boiled spinach, minced rather
fine, which will have an appearance similar to that of parsley.
[Illustration: PARSLEY.]
PARSLEY.--If there be nothing new under the sun, there are, at
any rate, different uses found for the same thing; for this
pretty aromatic herb was used in ancient times, as we learn from
mythological narrative, to adorn the head of a hero, no less
than Hercules; and now--was ever fall so great?--we moderns use
it in connection with the head of--a calf. According to Homer's
"Iliad," warriors fed their chariot-steeds on parsley; and Pliny
acquaints us with the fact that, as a symbol of mourning, it was
admitted to furnish the funeral tables of the Romans. Egypt,
some say, first produced this herb; thence it was introduced, by
some unknown voyager, into Sardinia, where the Carthaginians
found it, and made it known to the inhabitants of Marseilles.
(See No. 123.)
FRIED PARSLEY, for Garnishing.
494. INGREDIENTS.--Parsley, hot lard or clarified dripping.
_Mode_.--Gather some young parsley; wash, pick, and dry it thoroughly in
a cloth; put it into the wire basket of which we have given an
engraving, and hold it in boiling lard or dripping for a minute or two.
Directly it is done, lift out the basket, and let it stand before the
fire, that the parsley may become thoroughly crisp; and the quicker it
is fried the better. Should the kitchen not be furnished with the above
article, throw the parsley into the frying-pan, and when crisp, lift it
out with a slice, dry it before the fire, and when thoroughly crisp, it
will be ready for use.
[Illustration: WIRE BASKET.]
WIRE BASKET.--For this recipe, a wire basket, as shown in the
annexed engraving, will be found very useful. It is very light
and handy, and may be used for other similar purposes besides
that described above.
PARSLEY JUICE, for Colouring various Dishes.
495. Procure some nice young parsley; wash it and dry it thoroughly in a
cloth; pound the leaves in a mortar till all the juice is extracted, and
put the juice in a teacup or small jar; place this in a saucepan of
boiling water, and warm it on the _bain marie_ principle just long
enough to take off its rawness; let it drain, and it will be ready for
colouring.
TO PRESERVE PARSLEY THROUGH THE WINTER.
496. Use freshly-gathered parsley for keeping, and wash it perfectly
free from grit and dirt; put it into boiling water which has been
slightly salted and well skimmed, and then let it boil for 2 or 3
minutes; take it out, let it drain, and lay it on a sieve in front of
the fire, when it should be dried as expeditiously as possible. Store it
away in a very dry place in bottles, and when wanted for use, pour over
it a little warm water, and let it stand for about 5 minutes.
_Seasonable_.--This may be done at any time between June and October.
AN EXCELLENT PICKLE.
497. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of medium-sized onions, cucumbers,
and sauce-apples; 1-1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 3/4 teaspoonful of cayenne,
1 wineglassful of soy, 1 wineglassful of sherry; vinegar.
_Mode_.--Slice sufficient cucumbers, onions, and apples to fill a pint
stone jar, taking care to cut the slices very thin; arrange them in
alternate layers, shaking in as you proceed salt and cayenne in the
above proportion; pour in the soy and wine, and fill up with vinegar. It
will be fit for use the day it is made.
_Seasonable_ in August and September.
[This recipe was forwarded to the editress of this work by a subscriber
to the "Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine." Mrs. Beeton, not having
tested it, cannot vouch for its excellence; but the contributor spoke
very highly in its favour.]
SOY.--This is a sauce frequently made use of for fish, and comes
from Japan, where it is prepared from the seeds of a plant
called _Dolichos Soja_. The Chinese also manufacture it; but
that made by the Japanese is said to be the best. All sorts of
statements have been made respecting the very general
adulteration of this article in England, and we fear that many
of them are too true. When genuine, it is of an agreeable
flavour, thick, and of a clear brown colour.
PICKLED RED CABBAGE.
498. INGREDIENTS.--Red cabbages, salt and water; to each quart of
vinegar, 1/2 oz. of ginger well bruised, 1 oz. of whole black pepper,
and, when liked, a little cayenne.
_Mode_.--Take off the outside decayed leaves of a nice red cabbage, cut
it in quarters, remove the stalks, and cut it across in very thin
slices. Lay these on a dish, and strew them plentifully with salt,
covering them with another dish. Let them remain for 24 hours, turn into
a colander to drain, and, if necessary, wipe lightly with a clean soft
cloth. Put them in a jar; boil up the vinegar with spices in the above
proportion, and, when cold, pour it over the cabbage. It will be fit for
use in a week or two, and, if kept for a very long time, the cabbage is
liable get soft and to discolour. To be really nice and crisp, and of a
good red colour, it should be eaten almost immediately after it is made.
A little bruised cochineal boiled with the vinegar adds much to the
appearance of this pickle. Tie down with bladder, and keep in a dry
place.
_Seasonable_ in July and August, but the pickle will be much more crisp
if the frost has just touched the leaves.
RED CABBAGE.--This plant, in its growth, is similar in form to
that of the white, but is of a bluish-purple colour, which,
however, turns red on the application of acid, as is the case
with all vegetable blues. It is principally from the white
vegetable that the Germans make their _sauer kraut_; a dish held
in such high estimation with the inhabitants of Vaderland, but
which requires, generally speaking, with strangers, a long
acquaintance in order to become sufficiently impressed with its
numerous merits. The large red Dutch is the kind generally
recommended for pickling.
PLUM-PUDDING SAUCE.
499. INGREDIENTS.--1 wineglassful of brandy, 2 oz. of very fresh butter,
1 glass of Madeira, pounded sugar to taste.
_Mode_.--Put the pounded sugar in a basin, with part of the brandy and
the butter; let it stand by the side of the fire until it is warm and
the sugar and butter are dissolved; then add the rest of the brandy,
with the Madeira. Either pour it over the pudding, or serve in a tureen.
This is a very rich and excellent sauce.
_Average cost_, 1s. 3d. for this quantity.
_Sufficient_ for a pudding made for 6 persons.
QUIN'S SAUCE, an excellent Fish Sauce.
500. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of walnut pickle, 1/2 pint of port wine, 1
pint of mushroom ketchup, 1 dozen anchovies, 1 dozen shalots, 1/4 pint
of soy, 1/2 teaspoonful of cayenne.
_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, having previously
chopped the shalots and anchovies very small; simmer for 15 minutes,
strain, and, when cold, bottle off for use: the corks should be well
sealed to exclude the air.
_Time_.--1/4 hour.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
RAVIGOTTE, a French Salad Sauce.
_Mons. Ude's Recipe_.
501. INGREDIENTS.--1 teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 teaspoonful of
cavice, 1 teaspoonful of Chili vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of Reading sauce,
a piece of butter the size of an egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of thick
Béchamel, No. 367, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 3 tablespoonfuls
of cream; salt and pepper to taste.
_Mode_.--Scald the parsley, mince the leaves very fine, and add it to
all the other ingredients; after mixing the whole together thoroughly,
the sauce will be ready for use.
_Average cost_, for this quantity, 10d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
READING SAUCE.
502. INGREDIENTS.--2-1/2 pints of walnut pickle, 1-1/2 oz. of shalots, 1
quart of spring water, 3/4 pint of Indian soy, 1/2 oz. of bruised
ginger, 1/2 oz. of long pepper, 1 oz. of mustard-seed, 1 anchovy, 1/2
oz. of cayenne, 1/4 oz. of dried sweet bay-leaves.
_Mode_.--Bruise the shalots in a mortar, and put them in a stone jar
with the walnut-liquor; place it before the fire, and let it boil until
reduced to 2 pints. Then, into another jar, put all the ingredients
except the bay-leaves, taking care that they are well bruised, so that
the flavour may be thoroughly extracted; put this also before the fire,
and let it boil for 1 hour, or rather more. When the contents of both
jars are sufficiently cooked, mix them together, stirring them well as
you mix them, and submit them to a slow boiling for 1/2 hour; cover
closely, and let them stand 24 hours in a cool place; then open the jar
and add the bay-leaves; let it stand a week longer closed down, when
strain through a flannel bag, and it will be ready for use. The above
quantities will make 1/2 gallon.
_Time_.--Altogether, 3 hours.
_Seasonable_.--This sauce may be made at any time.
REMOULADE, or FRENCH SALAD-DRESSING.
503. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1/2 tablespoonful of made mustard, salt and
cayenne to taste, 3 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil, 1 tablespoonful of
tarragon or plain vinegar.
_Mode_.--Boil 3 eggs quite hard for about 1/4 hour, put them into cold
water, and let them remain in it for a few minutes; strip off the
shells, put the yolks in a mortar, and pound them very smoothly; add to
them, very gradually, the mustard, seasoning, and vinegar, keeping all
well stirred and rubbed down with the back of a wooden spoon. Put in the
oil drop by drop, and when this is thoroughly mixed with the other
ingredients, add the yolk of a raw egg, and stir well, when it will be
ready for use. This sauce should not be curdled; and to prevent this,
the only way is to mix a little of everything at a time, and not to
cease stirring. The quantities of oil and vinegar may be increased or
diminished according to taste, as many persons would prefer a smaller
proportion of the former ingredient.
GREEN REMOULADE is made by using tarragon vinegar instead of plain, and
colouring with a little parsley-juice, No. 495. Harvey's sauce, or Chili
vinegar, may be added at pleasure.
_Time_.--1/4 hour to boil the eggs.
_Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d.
_Sufficient_ for a salad made for 4 or 6 persons.
[Illustration: TARRAGON.]
TARRAGON.--The leaves of this plant, known to naturalists as
_Artemisia dracunculus_, are much used in France as a flavouring
ingredient for salads. From it also is made the vinegar known as
tarragon vinegar, which is employed by the French in mixing
their mustard. It originally comes from Tartary, and does not
seed in France.
SAGE-AND-ONION STUFFING, for Geese, Ducks, and Pork.
504. INGREDIENTS.--4 large onions, 10 sage-leaves, 1/4 lb. of bread
crumbs, 1-1/2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.
_Mode_.--Peel the onions, put them into boiling water, let them simmer
for 5 minutes or rather longer, and, just before they are taken out, put
in the sage-leaves for a minute or two to take off their rawness. Chop
both these very fine, add the bread, seasoning, and butter, and work the
whole together with the yolk of an egg, when the stuffing will be ready
for use. It should be rather highly seasoned, and the sage-leaves should
be very finely chopped. Many cooks do not parboil the onions in the
manner just stated, but merely use them raw. The stuffing then, however,
is not nearly so mild, and, to many tastes, its strong flavour would be
very objectionable. When made for goose, a portion of the liver of the
bird, simmered for a few minutes and very finely minced, is frequently
added to this stuffing; and where economy is studied, the egg may be
dispensed with.
_Time_.--Rather more than 5 minutes to simmer the onions.
_Average cost_, for this quantity, 4d.
_Sufficient_ for 1 goose, or a pair of ducks.
505. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR GOOSE STUFFING.--Take 4 apples, peeled and
cored, 4 onions, 4 leaves of sage, and 4 leaves of lemon thyme not
broken, and boil them in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them;
when done, pulp them through a sieve, removing the sage and thyme; then
add sufficient pulp of mealy potatoes to cause it to be sufficiently dry
without sticking to the hand; add pepper and salt, and stuff the bird.
SALAD DRESSING (Excellent).
I.
506. INGREDIENTS.--1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, 1 teaspoonful of
pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of milk,
2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, cayenne and salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Put the mixed mustard into a salad-bowl with the sugar, and add
the oil drop by drop, carefully stirring and mixing all these
ingredients well together. Proceed in this manner with the milk and
vinegar, which must be added very _gradually_, or the sauce will curdle.
Put in the seasoning, when the mixture will be ready for use. If this
dressing is properly made, it will have a soft creamy appearance, and
will be found very delicious with crab, or cold fried fish (the latter
cut into dice), as well as with salads. In mixing salad dressings, the
ingredients cannot be added _too gradually_, or _stirred too much_.
_Average cost_, for this quantity, 3d.
_Sufficient_ for a small salad.
This recipe can be confidently recommended by the editress, to whom it
was given by an intimate friend noted for her salads.
SCARCITY OF SALADS IN ENGLAND.--Three centuries ago, very few
vegetables were cultivated in England, and an author writing of
the period of Henry VIII.'s reign, tells us that neither salad,
nor carrots, nor cabbages, nor radishes, nor any other
comestibles of a like nature, were grown in any part of the
kingdom: they came from Holland and Flanders. We further learn,
that Queen Catharine herself, with all her royalty, could not
procure a salad of English growth for her dinner. The king was
obliged to mend this sad state of affairs, and send to Holland
for a gardener in order to cultivate those pot-herbs, in the
growth of which England is now, perhaps, not behind any other
country in Europe.
[Illustration: THE OLIVE.]
THE OLIVE AND OLIVE OIL.--This tree assumes a high degree of
interest from the historical circumstances with which it is
connected. A leaf of it was brought into the ark by the dove,
when that vessel was still floating on the waters of the great
deep, and gave the first token that the deluge was subsiding.
Among the Greeks, the prize of the victor in the Olympic games
was a wreath of wild olive; and the "Mount of Olives" is
rendered familiar to our ears by its being mentioned in the
Scriptures as near to Jerusalem. The tree is indigenous in the
north of Africa, Syria, and Greece; and the Romans introduced it
to Italy. In Spain and the south of France it is now cultivated;
and although it grows in England, its fruit does not ripen in
the open air. Both in Greece and Portugal the fruit is eaten in
its ripe state; but its taste is not agreeable to many palates.
To the Italian shepherd, bread and olives, with a little wine,
form a nourishing diet; but in England, olives are usually only
introduced by way of dessert, to destroy the taste of the viands
which have been previously eaten, that the flavour of the wine
may be the better enjoyed. There are three kinds of olives
imported to London,--the French, Spanish, and Italian: the first
are from Provence, and are generally accounted excellent; the
second are larger, but more bitter; and the last are from Lucca,
and are esteemed the best. The oil extracted from olives, called
olive oil, or salad oil, is, with the continentals, in continual
request, more dishes being prepared with than without it, we
should imagine. With us, it is principally used in mixing a
salad, and when thus employed, it tends to prevent fermentation,
and is an antidote against flatulency.
II.
507. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, 1/4
teaspoonful of white pepper, half that quantity of cayenne, salt to
taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, vinegar.
_Mode_.--Boil the eggs until hard, which will be in about 1/4 hour or 20
minutes; put them into cold water, take off the shells, and pound the
yolks in a mortar to a smooth paste. Then add all the other ingredients,
except the vinegar, and stir them well until the whole are thoroughly
incorporated one with the other. Pour in sufficient vinegar to make it
of the consistency of cream, taking care to add but little at a time.
The mixture will then be ready for use.
_Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d.
_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized salad.
_Note_.--The whites of the eggs, cut into rings, will serve very well as
a garnishing to the salad.
III.
508. INGREDIENTS.--1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of salad oil, 1 teaspoonful of
mixed mustard, 1/4 teaspoonful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded
sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream.
_Mode_.--Prepare and mix the ingredients by the preceding recipe, and be
very particular that the whole is well stirred.
_Note_.--In making salads, the vegetables, &c., should never be added to
the sauce very long before they are wanted for table; the dressing,
however, may always be prepared some hours before required. Where salads
are much in request, it is a good plan to bottle off sufficient dressing
for a few days' consumption, as, thereby, much time and trouble are
saved. If kept in a cool place, it will remain good for 4 or 5 days.
POETIC RECIPE FOR SALAD.--The Rev. Sydney Smith, the witty canon
of St. Paul's, who thought that an enjoyment of the good things
of this earth was compatible with aspirations for things higher,
wrote the following excellent recipe for salad, which we should
advise our readers not to pass by without a trial, when the hot
weather invites to a dish of cold lamb. May they find the
flavour equal to the rhyme.--
"Two large potatoes, pass'd through kitchen sieve,
Smoothness and softness to the salad give:
Of mordent mustard add a single spoon,
Distrust the condiment that bites too soon;
But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault.
To add a double quantity of salt:
Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown,
And twice with vinegar procured from 'town;
True flavour needs it, and your poet begs,
The pounded yellow of two well-boil'd eggs.
Let onion's atoms lurk within the bowl,
And, scarce suspected, animate the whole;
And, lastly, in the flavour'd compound toss
A magic spoonful of anchovy sauce.
Oh! great and glorious, and herbaceous treat,
'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat.
Back to the world he'd turn his weary soul,
And plunge his fingers in the salad-bowl."
SAUCE ALLEMANDE, or GERMAN SAUCE.
509. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of sauce tournée (No. 517), the yolks of 2
eggs.
_Mode_.--Put the sauce into a stewpan, heat it, and stir to it the
beaten yolks of 2 eggs, which have been previously strained. Let it just
simmer, but not boil, or the eggs will curdle; and after they are added
to the sauce, it must be stirred without ceasing. This sauce is a
general favourite, and is used for many made dishes.
_Time_.--1 minute to simmer.
_Average cost_, 6d.
SAUCE ARISTOCRATIQUE (a Store Sauce).
510. INGREDIENTS.--Green walnuts. To every pint of juice, 1 lb. of
anchovies, 1 drachm of cloves, 1 drachm of mace, 1 drachm of Jamaica
ginger bruised, 8 shalots. To every pint of the boiled liquor, 1/2 pint
of vinegar, 1/4 pint of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of soy.
_Mode_.--Pound the walnuts in a mortar, squeeze out the juice through a
strainer, and let it stand to settle. Pour off the clear juice, and to
every pint of it, add anchovies, spices, and cloves in the above
proportion. Boil all these together till the anchovies are dissolved,
then strain the juice again, put in the shalots (8 to every pint), and
boil again. To every pint of the boiled liquor add vinegar, wine, and
soy, in the above quantities, and bottle off for use. Cork well, and
seal the corks.
_Seasonable_.--Make this sauce from the beginning to the middle of July,
when walnuts are in perfection for sauces and pickling.
_Average cost_, 3s. 6d. for a quart.
MANUFACTURE OF SAUCES.--In France, during the reign of Louis
XII., at the latter end of the 14th century, there was formed a
company of sauce-manufacturers, who obtained, in those days of
monopolies, the exclusive privilege of making sauces. The
statutes drawn up by this company inform us that the famous
sauce à la cameline, sold by them, was to be composed or "good
cinnamon, good ginger, good cloves, good grains of paradise,
good bread, and good vinegar." The sauce Tence, was to be made
of "good sound almonds, good ginger, good wine, and good
verjuice." May we respectfully express a hope--not that we
desire to doubt it in the least--that the English
sauce-manufacturers of the 19th century are equally considerate
and careful in choosing their ingredients for their various
well-known preparations.
SAUCE A L'AURORE, for Trout, Soles, &c.
511. INGREDIENTS.--The spawn of 1 lobster, 1 oz. of butter, 1/2 pint of
Béchamel (No. 367), the juice of 1/2 lemon, a high seasoning of salt and
cayenne.
_Mode_.--Take the spawn and pound it in a mortar with the butter, until
quite smooth, and work it through a hair sieve. Put the Béchamel into a
stewpan, add the pounded spawn, the lemon-juice, which must be strained,
and a plentiful seasoning of cayenne and salt; let it just simmer, but
do not allow it to boil, or the beautiful red colour of the sauce will
be spoiled. A small spoonful of anchovy essence may be added at
pleasure.
_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s.
_Sufficient_ for a pair of large soles.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
SAUCE A LA MATELOTE, for Fish.
512. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of Espagnole (No. 411), 3 onions, 2
tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 1/2 glass of port wine, a bunch of
sweet herbs, 1/2 bay-leaf, salt and pepper to taste, 1 clove, 2 berries
of allspice, a little liquor in which the fish has been boiled,
lemon-juice, and anchovy sauce.
_Mode_.--Slice and fry the onions of a nice brown colour, and put them
into a stewpan with the Espagnole, ketchup, wine, and a little liquor in
which the fish has been boiled. Add the seasoning, herbs, and spices,
and simmer gently for 10 minutes, stirring well the whole time; strain
it through a fine hair sieve, put in the lemon-juice and anchovy sauce,
and pour it over the fish. This sauce may be very much enriched by
adding a few small quenelles, or forcemeat balls made of fish, and also
glazed onions or mushrooms. These, however, should not be added to the
matelote till it is dished.
_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Note_.--This sauce originally took its name as being similar to that
which the French sailor (_matelot_) employed as a relish to the fish he
caught and ate. In some cases, cider and perry were substituted for the
wine. The Norman _matelotes_ were very celebrated.
[Illustration: THE BAY.]
THE BAY.--We have already described (see No. 180) the difference
between the cherry-laurel (_Prunus Laurus cerasus_) and the
classic laurel (_Laurus nobilis_), the former only being used
for culinary purposes. The latter beautiful evergreen was
consecrated by the ancients to priests and heroes, and used in
their sacrifices. "A crown of bay" was the earnestly-desired
reward for great enterprises, and for the display of uncommon
genius in oratory or writing. It was more particularly sacred to
Apollo, because, according to the fable, the nymph Daphne was
changed into a laurel-tree. The ancients believed, too, that the
laurel had the power of communicating the gift of prophecy, as
well as poetic genius; and, when they wished to procure pleasant
dreams, would place a sprig under the pillow of their bed. It
was the symbol, too, of victory, and it was thought that the
laurel could never be struck by lightning. From this word comes
that of "laureate;" Alfred Tennyson being the present poet
laureate, crowned with laurel as the first of living bards.
SAUCE PIQUANTE, for Cutlets, Roast Meat, &c.
513. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of butter, 1 small carrot, 6 shalots, 1 small
bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, 1/2 a bay-leaf, 2 slices of
lean ham, 2 cloves, 6 peppercorns, 1 blade of mace, 3 whole allspice, 4
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1/2 pint of stock (No. 104 or 105), 1 small
lump of sugar, 1/4 saltspoonful of cayenne, salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Put into a stewpan the butter, with the carrot and shalots,
both of which must be cut into small slices; add the herbs, bay-leaf,
spices, and ham (which must be minced rather finely), and let these
ingredients simmer over a slow fire, until the bottom of the stewpan is
covered with a brown glaze. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon, and put
in the remaining ingredients. Simmer very gently for 1/4 hour, skim off
every particle of fat, strain the sauce through a sieve, and serve very
hot. Care must be taken that this sauce be not made too acid, although
it should possess a sharpness indicated by its name. Of course the above
quantity of vinegar may be increased or diminished at pleasure,
according to taste.
_Time_.--Altogether 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 10d.
_Sufficient_ for a medium-sized dish of cutlets.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
A GOOD SAUCE FOR VARIOUS BOILED PUDDINGS.
514. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of pounded sugar, a
wineglassful of brandy or rum.
_Mode_.--Beat the butter to a cream, until no lumps remain; add the
pounded sugar, and brandy or rum; stir once or twice until the whole is
thoroughly mixed, and serve. This sauce may either be poured round the
pudding or served in a tureen, according to the taste or fancy of the
cook or mistress.
_Average cost_, 8d. for this quantity.
_Sufficient_ for a pudding.
SAUCE ROBERT, for Steaks, &c.
515. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 4
tablespoonfuls of gravy, or stock No. 105, salt and pepper to taste, 1
teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar, the juice of 1/2
lemon.
_Mode_.--Put the butter into a stewpan, set it on the fire, and, when
browning, throw in the onions, which must be cut into small slices. Fry
them brown, but do not burn them; add the flour, shake the onions in it,
and give the whole another fry. Put in the gravy and seasoning, and boil
it gently for 10 minutes; skim off the fat, add the mustard, vinegar,
and lemon-juice; give it one boil, and pour round the steaks, or
whatever dish the sauce has been prepared for.
_Time_.---Altogether 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 6d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for about 2 lbs. of steak.
_Note_.--This sauce will be found an excellent accompaniment to roast
goose, pork, mutton cutlets, and various other dishes.
A GOOD SAUCE FOR STEAKS.
516. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of whole black pepper, 1/2 oz. of allspice, 1
oz. of salt, 1/2 oz. grated horseradish, 1/2 oz. of pickled shalots, 1
pint of mushroom ketchup or walnut pickle.
_Mode_.--Pound all the ingredients finely in a mortar, and put them into
the ketchup or walnut-liquor. Let them stand for a fortnight, when
strain off the liquor and bottle for use. Either pour a little of the
sauce over the steaks or mix it in the gravy.
_Seasonable_.--This can be made at any time.
_Note_.--In using a jar of pickled walnuts, there is frequently left a
large quantity of liquor; this should be converted into a sauce like the
above, and will be found a very useful relish.
THE GROWTH OF THE PEPPER-PLANT.--Our readers will see at Nos.
369 and 399, a description, with engravings, of the qualities of
black and long pepper, and an account of where these spices are
found. We will here say something of the manner of the growth of
the pepper-plant. Like the vine, it requires support, and it is
usual to plant a thorny tree by its side, to which it may cling.
In Malabar, the chief pepper district of India, the jacca-tree
(_Artocarpus integrifolia_) is made thus to yield its
assistance, the same soil being adapted to the growth of both
plants. The stem of the pepper-plant entwines round its support
to a considerable height; the flexile branches then droop
downwards, bearing at their extremities, as well as at other
parts, spikes of green flowers, which are followed by the
pungent berries. These hang in large bunches, resembling in
shape those of grapes; but the fruit grows distinct, each on a
little stalk, like currants. Each berry contains a single seed,
of a globular form and brownish colour, but which changes to a
nearly black when dried; and this is the pepper of commerce. The
leaves are not unlike those of the ivy, but are larger and of
rather lighter colour; they partake strongly of the peculiar
smell and pungent taste of the berry.
SAUCE TOURNEE.
517. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of white stock (No. 107), thickening of flour
and butter, or white roux (No. 526), a faggot of savoury herbs,
including parsley, 6 chopped mushrooms, 6 green onions.
_Mode_.--Put the stock into a stewpan with the herbs, onions, and
mushrooms, and let it simmer very gently for about 1/2 hour; stir in
sufficient thickening to make it of a proper consistency; let it boil
for a few minutes, then skim off all the fat, strain and serve. This
sauce, with the addition of a little cream, is now frequently called
velouté.
_Time_.--1/2 hour. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 6d.
_Note_.--If poultry trimmings are at hand, the stock should be made of
these; and the above sauce should not be made too thick, as it does not
then admit of the fat being nicely removed.
SWEET SAUCE, for Venison.
518. INGREDIENTS.--A small jar of red-currant jelly, 1 glass of port
wine.
_Mode_.--Put the above ingredients into a stewpan, set them over the
fire, and, when melted, pour in a tureen and serve. It should not be
allowed to boil.
_Time_.--5 minutes to melt the jelly.
_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s.
SAUCE FOR WILDFOWL.
519. INGREDIENTS.--1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of Leamington
sauce (No. 459), 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, 1 slice of lemon-peel, 1 large shalot cut in slices, 1
blade of mace, cayenne to taste.
_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, set it over the fire,
and let it simmer for about 5 minutes; then strain and serve the sauce
in a tureen.
_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 8d.
SAUSAGE-MEAT STUFFING, for Turkey.
520. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of lean pork, 6 oz. of fat pork, both weighed
after being chopped (beef suet may be substituted for the latter), 2 oz.
of bread crumbs, 1 small tablespoonful of minced sage, 1 blade of
pounded mace, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.
_Mode_.--Chop the meat and fat very finely, mix with them the other
ingredients, taking care that the whole is thoroughly incorporated.
Moisten with the egg, and the stuffing will be ready for use. Equal
quantities of this stuffing and forcemeat, No. 417, will be found to
answer very well, as the herbs, lemon-peel, &c. in the latter, impart a
very delicious flavour to the sausage-meat. As preparations, however,
like stuffings and forcemeats, are matters to be decided by individual
tastes, they must be left, to a great extent, to the discrimination of
the cook, who should study her employer's taste in this, as in every
other respect.
_Average cost_, 9d.
_Sufficient_ for a small turkey.
SAVOURY JELLY FOR MEAT PIES.
521. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of shin of beef, 1 calf's-foot, 3 lbs. of
knuckle of veal, poultry trimmings (if for game pies, any game
trimmings), 2 onions stuck with cloves, 2 carrots, 4 shalots, a bunch of
savoury herbs, 2 bay-leaves; when liked, 2 blades of mace and a little
spice; 2 slices of lean ham, rather more than 2 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Cut up the meat and put it into a stewpan with all the
ingredients except the water; set it over a slow fire to draw down, and,
when the gravy ceases to flow from the meat, pour in the water. Let it
boil up, then carefully take away all scum from the top. Cover the
stewpan closely, and let the stock simmer very gently for 4 hours: if
rapidly boiled, the jelly will not be clear. When done, strain it
through a fine sieve or flannel bag; and when cold, the jelly should be
quite transparent. If this is not the case, clarify it with the whites
of eggs, as described in recipe No. 109.
_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, for this quantity, 5s.
SHRIMP SAUCE, for Various Kinds of Fish.
522. INGREDIENTS.--1/3 pint of melted butter (No. 376), 1/4 pint of
picked shrimps, cayenne to taste.
_Mode_.--Make the melted butter very smoothly by recipe No. 376, shell
the shrimps (sufficient to make 1/4 pint when picked), and put them into
the butter; season with cayenne, and let the sauce just simmer, but do
not allow it to boil. When liked, a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce may be
added.
_Time_.--1 minute to simmer. _Average cost_, 6d.
_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.
SPINACH GREEN FOR COLOURING VARIOUS DISHES.
523. INGREDIENTS.--2 handfuls of spinach.
_Mode_.--Pick and wash the spinach free from dirt, and pound the leaves
in a mortar to extract the juice; then press it through a hair sieve,
and put the juice into a small stewpan or jar. Place this in a bain
marie, or saucepan of boiling water, and let it set. Watch it closely,
as it should not boil; and, as soon as it is done, lay it in a sieve, so
that all the water may drain from it, and the green will then be ready
for colouring. If made according to this recipe, the spinach-green will
be found far superior to that boiled in the ordinary way.
HOT SPICE, a Delicious Adjunct to Chops, Steaks, Gravies, &c.
524. INGREDIENTS.--3 drachms each of ginger, black pepper, and cinnamon,
7 cloves, 1/2 oz. mace, 1/4 oz. of cayenne, 1 oz. grated nutmeg, 1-1/2
oz. white pepper.
_Mode_.--Pound the ingredients, and mix them thoroughly together, taking
care that everything is well blended. Put the spice in a very dry glass
bottle for use. The quantity of cayenne may be increased, should the
above not be enough to suit the palate.
[Illustration: CINNAMON.]
CINNAMON.--The cinnamon-tree (_Laurus Cinnamomum_) is a valuable
and beautiful species of the laurel family, and grows to the
height of 20 or 30 feet. The trunk is short and straight, with
wide-spreading branches, and it has a smooth ash-like bark. The
leaves are upon short stalks, and are of an oval shape, and 3 to
5 inches long. The flowers are in panicles, with six small
petals, and the fruit is about the size of an olive, soft,
insipid, and of a deep blue. This incloses a nut, the kernel of
which germinates soon after it falls. The wood of the tree is
white and not very solid, and its root is thick and branching,
exuding a great quantity of camphor. The inner bark of the tree
forms the cinnamon of commerce. Ceylon was thought to be its
native island; but it has been found in Malabar, Cochin-China,
Sumatra, and the Eastern Islands; also in the Brazils, the
Mauritius, Jamaica, and other tropical localities.
BROWN ROUX, a French Thickening for Gravies and Sauces.
525. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of butter, 9 oz. of flour.
_Mode_.--Melt the butter in a stewpan over a slow fire, and dredge in,
very gradually, the flour; stir it till of a light-brown colour--to
obtain this do it very slowly, otherwise the flour will burn and impart
a bitter taste to the sauce it is mixed with. Pour it in a jar, and keep
it for use: it will remain good some time.
_Time_.--About 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 7d.
WHITE ROUX, for thickening White Sauces.
526. Allow the same proportions of butter and flour as in the preceding
recipe, and proceed in the same manner as for brown roux, but do not
keep it on the fire too long, and take care not to let it colour. This
is used for thickening white sauce. Pour it into a jar to use when
wanted.
_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 7d.
_Sufficient_,--A dessertspoonful will thicken a pint of gravy.
_Note_.--Besides the above, sauces may be thickened with potato flour,
ground rice, baked flour, arrowroot, &c.: the latter will be found far
preferable to the ordinary flour for white sauces. A slice of bread,
toasted and added to gravies, answers the two purposes of thickening and
colouring them.
SPANISH ONIONS--PICKLED.
527. INGREDIENTS.--Onions, vinegar; salt and cayenne to taste.
_Mode_.--Cut the onions in thin slices; put a layer of them in the
bottom of a jar; sprinkle with salt and cayenne; then add another layer
of onions, and season as before. Proceeding in this manner till the jar
is full, pour in sufficient vinegar to cover the whole, and the pickle
will be fit for use in a month.
_Seasonable_.--May be had in England from September to February.
STORE SAUCE, or CHEROKEE.
528. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 oz. of cayenne pepper, 5 cloves of garlic, 2
tablespoonfuls of soy, 1 tablespoonful of walnut ketchup, 1 pint of
vinegar.
_Mode_.--Boil all the ingredients _gently_ for about 1/2 hour; strain
the liquor, and bottle off for use.
_Time_.--1/2 hour.
_Seasonable_.--This sauce can be made at any time.
TOMATO SAUCE--HOT, to serve with Cutlets, Roast Meats, &c.
529. INGREDIENTS.--6 tomatoes, 2 shalots, 1 clove, 1 blade of mace, salt
and cayenne to taste, 1/4 pint of gravy, No. 436, or stock No. 104.
_Mode_.--Cut the tomatoes in two, and squeeze the juice and seeds out;
put them in a stewpan with all the ingredients, and let them simmer
_gently_ until the tomatoes are tender enough to pulp; rub the whole
through a sieve, boil it for a few minutes, and serve. The shalots and
spices may be omitted when their flavour is objected to.
_Time_.--1 hour, or rather more, to simmer the tomatoes.
_Average cost_, for this quantity, 1s.
_In full season_ in September and October.
[Illustration: THE TOMATO.]
TOMATO, OR LOVE-APPLE.--The plant which bears this fruit is a
native of South America, and takes its name from a Portuguese
word. The tomato fruit is about the size of a small potato, and
is chiefly used in soups, sauces, and gravies. It is sometimes
served to table roasted or boiled, and when green, makes a good
ketchup or pickle. In its unripe state, it is esteemed as
excellent sauce for roast goose or pork, and when quite ripe, a
good store sauce may be prepared from it.
TOMATO SAUCE FOR KEEPING (Excellent).
I.
530. INGREDIENTS.--To every quart of tomato-pulp allow 1 pint of cayenne
vinegar (No. 386), 3/4 oz. of shalots, 3/4 oz. of garlic, peeled and cut
in slices; salt to taste. To every six quarts of liquor, 1 pint of soy,
1 pint of anchovy sauce.
_Mode_.--Gather the tomatoes quite ripe; bake them in a slow oven till
tender; rub them through a sieve, and to every quart of pulp add cayenne
vinegar, shalots, garlic, and salt, in the above proportion; boil the
whole together till the garlic and shalots are quite soft; then rub it
through a sieve, put it again into a saucepan, and, to every six quarts
of the liquor, add 1 pint of soy and the same quantity of anchovy sauce,
and boil altogether for about 20 minutes; bottle off for use, and
carefully seal or rosin the corks. This will keep good for 2 or 3 years,
but will be fit for use in a week. A useful and less expensive sauce may
be made by omitting the anchovy and soy.
_Time_.--Altogether 1 hour.
_Seasonable_.--Make this from the middle of September to the end of
October.
II.
531. INGREDIENTS.--1 dozen tomatoes, 2 teaspoonfuls of the best powdered
ginger, 1 dessertspoonful of salt, 1 head of garlic chopped fine, 2
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar (a small
quantity of cayenne may be substituted for this).
_Mode_.--Choose ripe tomatoes, put them into a stone jar, and stand them
in a cool oven until quite tender; when cold, take the skins and stalks
from them, mix the pulp with the liquor which is in the jar, but do not
strain it; add all the other ingredients, mix well together, and put it
into well-sealed bottles. Stored away in a cool dry place, it will keep
good for years. It is ready for use as soon as made, but the flavour is
better after a week or two. Should it not appear to keep, turn it out,
and boil it up with a little additional ginger and cayenne. For
immediate use, the skins should be put into a wide-mouthed bottle with a
little of the different ingredients, and they will be found very nice
for hashes or stews.
_Time_.--4 or 5 hours in a cool oven.
_Seasonable_ from the middle of September to the end of October.
III.
532. INGREDIENTS.--3 dozen tomatoes; to every pound of tomato-pulp allow
1 pint of Chili vinegar, 1 oz. of garlic, 1 oz. of shalot, 2 oz. of
salt, 1 large green capsicum, 1/2 teaspoonful of cayenne, 2 pickled
gherkins, 6 pickled onions, 1 pint of common vinegar, and the juice of 6
lemons.
_Mode_.--Choose the tomatoes when quite ripe and red; put them in a jar
with a cover to it, and bake them till tender. The better way is to put
them in the oven overnight, when it will not be too hot, and examine
them in the morning to see if they are tender. Do not allow them to
remain in the oven long enough to break them; but they should be
sufficiently soft to skin nicely and rub through the sieve. Measure the
pulp, and to each pound of pulp, add the above proportion of vinegar and
other ingredients, taking care to chop very fine the garlic, shalot,
capsicum, onion, and gherkins. Boil the whole together till everything
is tender; then again rub it through a sieve, and add the lemon-juice.
Now boil the whole again till it becomes as thick as cream, and keep
continually stirring; bottle it when quite cold, cork well, and seal the
corks. If the flavour of garlic and shalot is very much disliked,
diminish the quantities.
_Time_.--Bake the tomatoes in a cool oven all night.
_Seasonable_ from the middle of September to the end of October.
_Note_.--A quantity of liquor will flow from the tomatoes, which must be
put through the sieve with the rest. Keep it well stirred while on the
fire, and use a wooden spoon.
UNIVERSAL PICKLE.
533. INGREDIENTS.--To 6 quarts of vinegar allow 1 lb. of salt, 1/4 lb.
of ginger, 1 oz. of mace, 1/2 lb. of shalots, 1 tablespoonful of
cayenne, 2 oz. of mustard-seed, 1-1/2 oz. of turmeric.
_Mode_.--Boil all the ingredients together for about 20 minutes; when
cold, put them into a jar with whatever vegetables you choose, such as
radish-pods, French beans, cauliflowers, gherkins, &c. &c., as these
come into season; put them in fresh as you gather them, having
previously wiped them perfectly free from moisture and grit. This pickle
will be fit for use in about 8 or 9 months.
_Time_.--20 minutes.
_Seasonable_.--Make the pickle in May or June, to be ready for the
various vegetables.
_Note_.--As this pickle takes 2 or 3 months to make,--that is to say,
nearly that time will elapse before all the different vegetables are
added,--care must be taken to keep the jar which contains the pickle
well covered, either with a closely-fitting lid, or a piece of bladder
securely tied over, so as perfectly to exclude the air.
PICKLED WALNUTS (Very Good).
534. INGREDIENTS.--100 walnuts, salt and water. To each quart of vinegar
allow 2 oz. of whole black pepper, 1 oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of bruised
ginger.
_Mode_.--Procure the walnuts while young; be careful they are not woody,
and prick them well with a fork; prepare a strong brine of salt and
water (4 lbs. of salt to each gallon of water), into which put the
walnuts, letting them remain 9 days, and changing the brine every third
day; drain them off, put them on a dish, place it in the sun until they
become perfectly black, which will be in 2 or 3 days; have ready dry
jars, into which place the walnuts, and do not quite fill the jars. Boil
sufficient vinegar to cover them, for 10 minutes, with spices in the
above proportion, and pour it hot over the walnuts, which must be quite
covered with the pickle; tie down with bladder, and keep in a dry place.
They will be fit for use in a month, and will keep good 2 or 3 years.
_Time_.--10 minutes.
_Seasonable_.--Make this from the beginning to the middle of July,
before the walnuts harden.
_Note_.--When liked, a few shalots may be added to the vinegar, and
boiled with it.
WALNUT KETCHUP.
I.
535. INGREDIENTS.--100 walnuts, 1 handful of salt, 1 quart of vinegar,
1/4 oz. of mace, 1/4 oz. of nutmeg, 1/4 oz. of cloves, 1/4 oz. of
ginger, 1/4 oz. of whole black pepper, a small piece of horseradish, 20
shalots, 1/4 lb. of anchovies, 1 pint of port wine.
_Mode_.--Procure the walnuts at the time you can run a pin through them,
slightly bruise, and put them into a jar with the salt and vinegar, let
them stand 8 days, stirring every day; then drain the liquor from them,
and boil it, with the above ingredients, for about 1/2 hour. It may be
strained or not, as preferred, and, if required, a little more vinegar
or wine can be added, according to taste. When bottled well, seal the
corks.
_Time_.--1/2 hour.
_Seasonable_.--Make this from the beginning to the middle of July, when
walnuts are in perfection for pickling purposes.
II.
536. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 sieve of walnut-shells, 2 quarts of water, salt,
1/2 lb. of shalots, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 oz. of mace, 1 oz. of whole
pepper, 1 oz. of garlic.
_Mode_.--Put the walnut-shells into a pan, with the water, and a large
quantity of salt; let them stand for 10 days, then break the shells up
in the water, and let it drain through a sieve, putting a heavy weight
on the top to express the juice; place it on the fire, and remove all
scum that may arise. Now boil the liquor with the shalots, cloves, mace,
pepper, and garlic, and let all simmer till the shalots sink; then put
the liquor into a pan, and, when cold, bottle, and cork closely. It
should stand 6 months before using: should it ferment during that time,
it must be again boiled and skimmed.
_Time_.--About 3/4 hour.
_Seasonable_ in September, when the walnut-shells are obtainable.
[Illustration: THE WALNUT.]
THE WALNUT.--This nut is a native of Persia, and was introduced
into England from France. As a pickle, it is much used in the
green state; and grated walnuts in Spain are much employed, both
in tarts and other dishes. On the continent it is occasionally
employed as a substitute for olive oil in cooking; but it is
apt, under such circumstances, to become rancid. The matter
which remains after the oil is extracted is considered highly
nutritious for poultry. It is called _mare_, and in Switzerland
is eaten under the name of _pain amer_ by the poor. The oil is
frequently manufactured into a kind of soap, and the leaves and
green husks yield an extract, which, as a brown dye, is used to
stain hair, wool, and wood.
WHITE SAUCE (Good).
537. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of white stock (No. 107), 1/2 pint of cream,
1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt to taste.
_Mode_.--Have ready a delicately-clean saucepan, into which put the
stock, which should be well flavoured with vegetables, and rather
savoury; mix the flour smoothly with the cream, add it to the stock,
season with a little salt, and boil all these ingredients very gently
for about 10 minutes, keeping them well stirred the whole time, as this
sauce is very liable to burn.
_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.
_Sufficient_ for a pair of fowls.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
WHITE SAUCE, made without Meat.
538. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of butter, 2 small onions, 1 carrot, 1/2 a
small teacupful of flour, 1 pint of new milk, salt and cayenne to taste.
_Mode_.--Cut up the onions and carrot very small, and put them into a
stewpan with the butter; simmer them till the butter is nearly dried up;
then stir in the flour, and add the milk; boil the whole gently until it
thickens, strain it, season with salt and cayenne, and it will be ready
to serve.
_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, 5d.
_Sufficient_ for a pair of fowls.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
WHITE SAUCE (a very Simple and Inexpensive Method).
539. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of milk, 1-1/2 oz. of rice, 1 strip of
lemon-peel, 1 small blade of pounded mace, salt and cayenne to taste.
_Mode_.--Boil the milk with the lemon-peel and rice until the latter is
perfectly tender, then take out the lemon-peel and pound the milk and
rice together; put it back into the stewpan to warm, add the mace and
seasoning, give it one boil, and serve. This sauce should be of the
consistency of thick cream.
_Time_.--About 1-1/2 hour to boil the rice.
_Average cost_, 4d.
_Sufficient_ for a pair of fowls.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
[Illustration: THE LEAMINGTON STOVE, OR KITCHENER.]
VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT.