SAGO SOUP.
152. INGREDIENTS.--5 oz. of sago, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.
_Mode_.--Wash the sago in boiling water, and add it, by degrees, to the
boiling stock, and simmer till the sago is entirely dissolved, and forms
a sort of jelly.
_Time_.--Nearly an hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per quart.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Note_.--The yolks of 2 eggs, beaten up with a little cream, previously
boiled, and added at the moment of serving, much improves this soup.
[Illustration: SAGO PALM.]
SAGO.--The farinaceous food of this name constitutes the pith of
the SAGO tree (the _Sagus farinifera_ of Linnaeus), which grows
spontaneously in the East Indies and in the archipelago of the
Indian Ocean. There it forms the principal farinaceous diet of
the inhabitants. In order to procure it, the tree is felled and
sawn in pieces. The pith is then taken out, and put in
receptacles of cold water, where it is stirred until the flour
separates from the filaments, and sinks to the bottom, where it
is suffered to remain until the water is poured off, when it is
taken out and spread on wicker frames to dry. To give it the
round granular form in which we find it come to this country, it
is passed through a colander, then rubbed into little balls, and
dried. The tree is not fit for felling until it has attained a
growth of seven years, when a single trunk will yield 600 lbs.
weight; and, as an acre of ground will grow 430 of these trees,
a large return of flour is the result. The best quality has a
slightly reddish hue, and easily dissolves to a jelly, in hot
water. As a restorative diet, it is much used.
SEMOLINA SOUP.
153. INGREDIENTS.--5 oz. of semolina, 2 quarts of boiling stock, No.
105, or 106.
_Mode_.--Drop the semolina into the boiling stock, and keep stirring, to
prevent its burning. Simmer gently for half an hour, and serve.
_Time_.--1/2 an hour. _Average cost_, 10d. per quart, or 4d.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
SEMOLINA.--This is the heart of the _grano duro_ wheat of Italy,
which is imported for the purpose of making the best vermicelli.
It has a coarse appearance, and may be purchased at the Italian
warehouses. It is also called _soojee;_ and _semoletta_ is
another name for a finer sort.
SOUP A LA SOLFERINO (Sardinian Recipe).
154. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 oz. of fresh butter,
salt and pepper to taste, a little flour to thicken, 2 quarts of
bouillon, No. 105.
_Mode_.--Beat the eggs, put them into a stewpan, and add the cream,
butter, and seasoning; stir in as much flour as will bring it to the
consistency of dough; make it into balls, either round or egg-shaped,
and fry them in butter; put them in the tureen, and pour the boiling
bouillon over them.
_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--This recipe was communicated to the Editress by an English
gentleman, who was present at the battle of Solferino, on June 24, 1859,
and who was requested by some of Victor Emmanuel's troops, on the day
before the battle, to partake of a portion of their _potage_. He
willingly enough consented, and found that these clever campaigners had
made a most palatable dish from very easily-procured materials. In
sending the recipe for insertion in this work, he has, however,
Anglicised, and somewhat, he thinks, improved it.
SPINACH SOUP (French Recipe).
155. INGREDIENTS.--As much spinach as, when boiled, will half fill a
vegetable-dish, 2 quarts of very clear medium stock, No. 105.
_Mode_.--Make the cooked spinach into balls the size of an egg, and slip
them into the soup-tureen. This is a very elegant soup, the green of the
spinach forming a pretty contrast to the brown gravy.
_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_,1s. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from October to June.
[Illustration: SPINACH.]
SPINACH.--This plant was unknown by the ancients, although it
was cultivated in the monastic gardens of the continent in the
middle of the 14th century. Some say, that it was originally
brought from Spain; but there is a wild species growing in
England, and cultivated in Lincolnshire, in preference to the
other. There are three varieties in use; the round-leaved, the
triangular-leaved, and Flanders spinach, known by its large
leaves. They all form a useful ingredient in soup; but the
leaves are sometimes boiled alone, mashed, and eaten as greens.
TAPIOCA SOUP.
156. INGREDIENTS.--5 oz. of tapioca, 2 quarts of stock No. 105 or 106.
_Mode_.--Put the tapioca into cold stock, and bring it gradually to a
boil. Simmer gently till tender, and serve.
_Time_.--Rather more than 1 hour. Average cost. 1s. or 6d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
TAPIOCA.--This excellent farinaceous food is the produce of the
pith of the cassava-tree, and is made in the East Indies, and
also in Brazil. It is, by washing, procured as a starch from the
tree, then dried, either in the sun or on plates of hot iron,
and afterwards broken into grains, in which form it is imported
into this country. Its nutritive properties are large, and as a
food for persons of delicate digestion, or for children, it is
in great estimation. "No amylaceous substance," says Dr.
Christison, "is so much relished by infants about the time of
weaning; and in them it is less apt to become sour during
digestion than any other farinaceous food, even arrowroot not
excepted."
TURNIP SOUP.
157. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of butter, 9 good-sized turnips, 4 onions, 2
quarts of stock No. 106, seasoning to taste.
_Mode_.--Melt the butter in the stewpan, but do not let it boil; wash,
drain, and slice the turnips and onions very thin; put them in the
butter, with a teacupful of stock, and stew very gently for an hour.
Then add the remainder of the stock, and simmer another hour. Rub it
through a tammy, put it back into the stewpan, but do not let it boil.
Serve very hot.
_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from October to March.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--By adding a little cream, this soup will be much improved.
[Illustration: TURNIP.]
THE TURNIP.--Although turnips grow wild in England, they are not
the original of the cultivated vegetable made use of in this
country. In ancient times they were grown for cattle by the
Romans, and in Germany and the Low Countries they have from time
immemorial been raised for the same purpose. In their cultivated
state, they are generally supposed to have been introduced to
England from Hanover, in the time of George I.; but this has
been doubted, as George II. caused a description of the Norfolk
system to be sent to his Hanoverian subjects, for their
enlightenment in the art of turnip culture. As a culinary
vegetable, it is excellent, whether eaten alone, mashed, or
mixed with soups und stews. Its nutritious matter, however, is
small, being only 42 parts in 1,000.
VEGETABLE-MARROW SOUP.
158. INGREDIENTS.--4 young vegetable marrows, or more, if very small,
1/2 pint of cream, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 quarts of white
stock, No. 107.
_Mode_.--Pare and slice the marrows, and put them in the stock boiling.
When done almost to a mash, press them through a sieve, and at the
moment of serving, add the boiling cream and seasoning.
_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in summer.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
[Illustration: VEGETABLE MARROW.]
THE VEGETABLE MARROW.--This is a variety of the gourd family,
brought from Persia by an East-India ship, and only recently
introduced to Britain. It is already cultivated to a
considerable extent, and, by many, is highly esteemed when fried
with butter. It is, however, dressed in different ways, either
by stewing or boiling, and, besides, made into pies.
VEGETABLE SOUP.
I.
159. INGREDIENTS.--7 oz. of carrot, 10 oz. of parsnip, 10 oz. of potato,
cut into thin slices; 1-1/4 oz. of butter, 5 teaspoonfuls of flour, a
teaspoonful of made mustard, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of 2
eggs, rather more than 2 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Boil the vegetables in the water 2-1/2 hours; stir them often,
and if the water boils away too quickly, add more, as there should be 2
quarts of soup when done. Mix up in a basin the butter and flour,
mustard, salt, and pepper, with a teacupful of cold water; stir in the
soup, and boil 10 minutes. Have ready the yolks of the eggs in the
tureen; pour on, stir well, and serve.
_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
II.
160. INGREDIENTS.--Equal quantities of onions, carrots, turnips; 1/4 lb.
of butter, a crust of toasted bread, 1 head of celery, a faggot of
herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar, 2
quarts of common stock or boiling water. Allow 3/4 lb. of vegetables to
2 quarts of stock, No. 105.
_Mode_.--Cut up the onions, carrots, and turnips; wash and drain them
well, and put them in the stewpan with the butter and powdered sugar.
Toss the whole over a sharp fire for 10 minutes, but do not let them
brown, or you will spoil the flavour of the soup. When done, pour the
stock or boiling water on them; add the bread, celery, herbs, and
seasoning; stew for 3 hours; skim well and strain it off. When ready to
serve, add a little sliced carrot, celery, and turnip, and flavour with
a spoonful of Harvey's sauce, or a little ketchup.
_Time_.--3-1/2 hours. _Average cost_,6d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
III.
(_Good and Cheap, made without Meat_.)
161. INGREDIENTS.--6 potatoes, 4 turnips, or 2 if very large; 2 carrots,
2 onions; if obtainable, 2 mushrooms; 1 head of celery, 1 large slice of
bread, 1 small saltspoonful of salt, 1/4 saltspoonful of ground black
pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, 6 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Peel the vegetables, and cut them up into small pieces; toast
the bread rather brown, and put all into a stewpan with the water and
seasoning. Simmer gently for 3 hours, or until all is reduced to a pulp,
and pass it through a sieve in the same way as pea-soup, which it should
resemble in consistence; but it should be a dark brown colour. Warm it
up again when required; put in the Harvey's sauce, and, if necessary,
add to the flavouring.
_Time_.--3 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_,1d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 16 persons.
_Note_.--This recipe was forwarded to the Editress by a lady in the
county of Durham, by whom it was strongly recommended.
VERMICELLI SOUP.
I.
162. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 lb. of bacon, stuck with cloves; 1/2 oz. of
butter, worked up in flour; 1 small fowl, trussed for boiling; 2 oz. of
vermicelli, 2 quarts of white stock, No. 107.
_Mode_.--Put the stock, bacon, butter, and fowl into the stewpan, and
stew for 3/4 of an hour. Take the vermicelli, add it to a little of the
stock, and set it on the fire, till it is quite tender. When the soup is
ready, take out the fowl and bacon, and put the bacon on a dish. Skim
the soup as clean as possible; pour it, with the vermicelli, over the
fowl. Cut some bread thin, put in the soup, and serve.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, exclusive of the fowl and bacon, 10d.
per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
[Illustration: VERMICELLI.]
VERMICELLI.--This is a preparation of Italian origin, and is
made in the same way as macaroni, only the yolks of eggs, sugar,
saffron, and cheese, are added to the paste.
II.
163. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of vermicelli, 2 quarts of clear gravy stock,
No. 169.
_Mode_.--Put the vermicelli in the soup, boiling; simmer very gently for
1/2 an hour, and stir frequently.
_Time_--1/2 an hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
WHITE SOUP.
164. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of sweet almonds, 1/4 lb. of cold veal or
poultry, a thick slice of stale bread, a piece of fresh lemon-peel, 1
blade of mace, pounded, 3/4 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled
eggs, 2 quarts of white stock, No. 107.
_Mode_.--Reduce the almonds in a mortar to a paste, with a spoonful of
water, and add to them the meat, which should be previously pounded with
the bread. Beat all together, and add the lemon-peel, very finely
chopped, and the mace. Pour the boiling stock on the whole, and simmer
for an hour. Rub the eggs in the cream, put in the soup, bring it to a
boil, and serve immediately.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--A more economical white soup may be made by using common veal
stock, and thickening with rice, flour, and milk. Vermicelli should be
served with it.
_Average cost_, 5d. per quart.
USEFUL SOUP FOR BENEVOLENT PURPOSES.
165. INGREDIENTS.--An ox-cheek, any pieces of trimmings of beef, which
may be bought very cheaply (say 4 lbs.), a few bones, any pot-liquor the
larder may furnish, 1/4 peck of onions, 6 leeks, a large bunch of herbs,
1/2 lb. of celery (the outside pieces, or green tops, do very well); 1/2
lb. of carrots, 1/2 lb. of turnips, 1/2 lb. of coarse brown sugar, 1/2 a
pint of beer, 4 lbs. of common rice, or pearl barley; 1/2 lb. of salt, 1
oz. of black pepper, a few raspings, 10 gallons of water.
_Mode_.--Cut up the meat in small pieces, break the bones, put them in a
copper, with the 10 gallons of water, and stew for 1/2 an hour. Cut up
the vegetables, put them in with the sugar and beer, and boil for 4
hours. Two hours before the soup is wanted, add the rice and raspings,
and keep stirring till it is well mixed in the soup, which simmer
gently. If the liquor reduces too much, fill up with water.
_Time_.--6-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1-1/2d. per quart.
_Note_.--The above recipe was used in the winter of 1858 by the
Editress, who made, each week, in her copper, 8 or 9 gallons of this
soup, for distribution amongst about a dozen families of the village
near which she lives. The cost, as will be seen, was not great; but she
has reason to believe that the soup was very much liked, and gave to the
members of those families, a dish of warm, comforting food, in place of
the cold meat and piece of bread which form, with too many cottagers,
their usual meal, when, with a little more knowledge of the "cooking."
art, they might have, for less expense, a warm dish, every day.
MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME SOUPS.
BRILLA SOUP.
166. INGREDIENTS.--4 lbs. of shin of beef, 3 carrots, 2 turnips, a large
sprig of thyme, 2 onions, 1 head of celery, salt and pepper to taste, 4
quarts water.
_Mode_.--Take the beef, cut off all the meat from the bone, in nice
square pieces, and boil the bone for 4 hours. Strain the liquor, let it
cool, and take off the fat; then put the pieces of meat in the cold
liquor; cut small the carrots, turnips, and celery; chop the onions, add
them with the thyme and seasoning, and simmer till the meat is tender.
If not brown enough, colour it with browning.
_Time_.--6 hours. _Average cost_, 5d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
THYME.--This sweet herb was known to the Romans, who made use of
it in culinary preparations, as well as in aromatic liqueurs.
There are two species of it growing wild in Britain, but the
garden thyme is a native of the south of Europe, and is more
delicate in its perfume than the others. Its young leaves give
an agreeable flavour to soups and sauces; they are also used in
stuffings.
CALF'S-HEAD SOUP.
167. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 a calf's head, 1 onion stuck with cloves, a very
small bunch of sweet herbs, 2 blades of mace, salt and white pepper to
taste, 6 oz. of rice-flour, 3 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 3 quarts of
white stock, No. 107, or pot-liquor, or water.
_Mode_.--Rub the head with salt, soak it for 6 hours, and clean it
thoroughly; put it in the stewpan, and cover it with the stock, or
pot-liquor, or water, adding the onion and sweet herbs. When well
skimmed and boiled for 1-1/2 hour, take out the head, and skim and
strain the soup. Mix the rice-flour with the ketchup, thicken the soup
with it, and simmer for 5 minutes. Now cut up the head into pieces about
two inches long, and simmer them in the soup till the meat and fat are
quite tender. Season with white pepper and mace finely pounded, and
serve very hot. When the calf's head is taken out of the soup, cover it
up, or it will discolour.
_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_,1s. 9d. per quart, with stock No.
107.
_Seasonable_ from May to October.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
_Note_.--Force-meat balls can be added, and the soup may be flavoured
with a little lemon-juice, or a glass of sherry or Madeira. The bones
from the head may be stewed down again, with a few fresh vegetables, and
it will make a very good common stock.
GIBLET SOUP.
168. INGREDIENTS.--3 sets of goose or duck giblets, 2 lbs. of shin of
beef, a few bones, 1 ox-tail, 2 mutton-shanks, 2 large onions, 2
carrots, 1 large faggot of herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 1/4 pint of
cream, 1 oz. of butter mixed with a dessert-spoonful of flour, 3 quarts
of water.
_Mode_.--Scald the giblets, cut the gizzards in 8 pieces, and put them
in a stewpan with the beef, bones, ox-tail, mutton-shanks, onions,
herbs, pepper, and salt; add the 3 quarts of water, and simmer till the
giblets are tender, taking care to skim well. When the giblets are done,
take them out, put them in your tureen, strain the soup through a sieve,
add the cream and butter, mixed with a dessert-spoonful of flour, boil
it up a few minutes, and pour it over the giblets. It can be flavoured
with port wine and a little mushroom ketchup, instead of cream. Add salt
to taste.
_Time_.--3 hours. _Average cost_,9d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
GRAVY SOUP.
169. INGREDIENTS.--6 lbs. of shin of beef, a knuckle of veal weighing 5
lbs., a few pieces or trimmings, 2 slices of nicely-flavoured lean, ham;
1/4 lb. of butter, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, nearly a head of
celery, 1 blade of mace, 6 cloves, a hunch of savoury herb with endive,
seasoning of salt and pepper to taste, 3 lumps of sugar, 5 quarts of
boiling soft water. It can be flavoured with ketchup, Leamington sauce
(_see_ SAUCES), Harvey's sauce, and a little soy.
_Mode_.--Slightly brown the meat and ham in the butter, but do not let
them burn. When this is done, pour to it the water, and as the scum
rises, take it off; when no more appears, add all the other ingredients,
and let the soup simmer slowly by the fire for 6 hours without stirring
it any more from the bottom; take it off, and let it settle; skim off
all the fat you can, and pass it through a tammy. When perfectly cold,
you can remove all the fat, and leave the sediment untouched, which
serves very nicely for thick gravies, hashes, &c.
_Time_.--7 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 14 persons.
ENDIVE.--This plant belongs to the acetarious tribe of
vegetables, and is supposed to have originally come from China
and Japan. It was known to the ancients; but was not introduced
to England till about the middle of the 16th century. It is
consumed in large quantities by the French, and in London,--in
the neighbourhood of which it is grown in abundance;--it is
greatly used as a winter salad, as well as in soups and stews.
HARE SOUP.
I.
170. INGREDIENTS.--A hare fresh-killed, 1 lb. of lean gravy-beef, a
slice of ham, 1 carrot, 2 onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/4 oz. of
whole black pepper, a little browned flour, 1/4 pint of port wine, the
crumb of two French rolls, salt and cayenne to taste, 3 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Skin and paunch the hare, saving the liver and as much blood as
possible. Cut it in pieces, and put it in a stewpan with all the
ingredients, and simmer gently for 8 hours. This soup should be made the
day before it is wanted. Strain through a sieve, put the best parts of
the hare in the soup, and serve.
OR,
II.
Proceed as above; but, instead of putting the joints of the hare in the
soup, pick the meat from the bones, pound it in a mortar, and add it,
with the crumb of two French rolls, to the soup. Rub all through a
sieve; heat slowly, but do not let it boil. Send it to table
immediately.
_Time_.-8 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from September to February.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
[Illustration: HARE.]
THE COMMON HARE.--This little animal is found throughout Europe,
and, indeed, in most of the northern parts of the world; and as
it is destitute of natural weapons of defence, Providence has
endowed it with an extraordinary amount of the passion of fear.
As if to awaken the vigilance of this passion, too, He has
furnished it with long and tubular ears, in order that it may
catch the remotest sounds; and with full, prominent eyes, which
enable it to see, at one and the same time, both before and
behind it. The hare feeds in the evenings, and sleeps, in its
form, during the day; and, as it generally lies on the ground,
its feet, both below and above, are protected with a thick
covering of hair. Its flesh, though esteemed by the Romans, was
forbidden by the Druids and by the earlier Britons. It is now,
though very dark and dry, and devoid of fat, much esteemed by
Europeans, on account of the peculiarity of its flavour. In
purchasing this animal, it ought to be remembered that both
hares and rabbits, when old, have their claws rugged and blunt,
their haunches thick, and their ears dry and tough. The ears of
a young hare easily tear, and it has a narrow cleft in the lip;
whilst its claws are both smooth and sharp.
HESSIAN SOUP.
171. INGREDIENTS.--Half an ox's head, 1 pint of split peas, 3 carrots, 6
turnips, 6 potatoes, 6 onions, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of savoury
herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of mace, a little allspice, 4
cloves, the crumb of a French roll, 6 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Clean the head, rub it with salt and water, and soak it for 5
hours in warm water. Simmer it in the water till tender, put it into a
pan and let it cool; skim off all the fat; take out the head, and add
the vegetables cut up small, and the peas which have been previously
soaked; simmer them without the meat, till they are done enough to pulp
through a sieve. Add the seasoning, with pieces of the meat cut up; give
one boil, and serve.
_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 16 persons.
_Note_.--An excellent hash or _ragoût_ can be made by cutting up the
nicest parts of the head, thickening and seasoning more highly a little
of the soup, and adding a glass of port wine and 2 tablespoonfuls of
ketchup.
MOCK TURTLE.
I.
172. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 a calf's head, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of lean
ham, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, a little minced lemon thyme,
sweet marjoram, basil, 2 onions, a few chopped mushrooms (when
obtainable), 2 shallots, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/4 bottle of
Madeira or sherry, force-meat balls, cayenne, salt and mace to taste,
the juice of 1 lemon and 1 Seville orange, 1 dessert-spoonful of pounded
sugar, 3 quarts of best stock, No. 104.
_Mode_.--Scald the head with the skin on, remove the brain, tie the head
up in a cloth, and let it boil for 1 hour. Then take the meat from the
bones, cut it into small square pieces, and throw them into cold water.
Now take the meat, put it into a stewpan, and cover with stock; let it
boil gently for an hour, or rather more, if not quite tender, and set it
on one side. Melt the butter in another stewpan, and add the ham, cut
small, with the herbs, parsley, onions, shallots, mushrooms, and nearly
a pint of stock; let these simmer slowly for 2 hours, and then dredge in
as much flour as will dry up the butter. Fill up with the remainder of
the stock, add the wine, let it stew gently for 10 minutes, rub it
through a tammy, and put it to the calf's head; season with cayenne,
and, if required, a little salt; add the juice of the orange and lemon;
and when liked, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded mace, and the sugar. Put in
the force-meat balls, simmer 5 minutes, and serve very hot.
_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d. per quart, or 2s. 6d.
without wine or force-meat balls.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
_Note_.--The bones of the head should be well stewed in the liquor it
was first boiled in, and will make good white stock, flavoured with
vegetables, etc.
II.
(_More Economical_.)
173. INGREDIENTS.--A knuckle of veal weighing 5 or 6 lbs., 2 cow-heels,
2 large onions stuck with cloves, 1 bunch of sweet herbs, 3 blades of
mace, salt to taste, 12 peppercorns, 1 glass of sherry, 24 force-meat
balls, a little lemon-juice, 4 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients, except the force-meat balls and
lemon-juice, in an earthen jar, and stew for 6 hours. Do not open it
till cold. When wanted for use, skim off all the fat, and strain
carefully; place it on the fire, cut up the meat into inch-and-a-half
squares, put it, with the force-meat balls and lemon-juice, into the
soup, and serve. It can be flavoured with a tablespoonful of anchovy, or
Harvey's sauce.
_Time_.--6 hours. _Average cost_,1s. 4d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
THE CALF--The flesh of this animal is called veal, and when
young, that is, under two months old, yields a large quantity of
soluble extract, and is, therefore, much employed for soups and
broths. The Essex farmers have obtained a celebrity for
fattening calves better than any others in England, where they
are plentifully supplied with milk, a thing impossible to be
done in the immediate neighbourhood of London.
MARJORAM.--There are several species of this plant; but that
which is preferred for cookery is a native of Portugal, and is
called sweet or knotted marjoram. When its leaves are dried,
they have an agreeable aromatic flavour; and hence are used for
soups, stuffings, &c.
BASIL.--This is a native of the East Indies, and is highly
aromatic, having a perfume greatly resembling that of cloves. It
is not much employed in English cookery, but is a favourite with
French cooks, by whom its leaves are used in soups and salads.
MULLAGATAWNY SOUP.
174. INGREDIENTS.--2 tablespoonfuls of curry powder, 6 onions, 1 clove
of garlic, 1 oz. of pounded almonds, a little lemon-pickle, or
mango-juice, to taste; 1 fowl or rabbit, 4 slices of lean bacon; 2
quarts of medium stock, or, if wanted very good, best stock.
_Mode_.-=Slice and fry the onions of a nice colour; line the stewpan
with the bacon; cut up the rabbit or fowl into small joints, and
slightly brown them; put in the fried onions, the garlic, and stock, and
simmer gently till the meat is tender; skim very carefully, and when the
meat is done, rub the curry powder to a smooth batter; add it to the
soup with the almonds, which must be first pounded with a little of the
stock. Put in seasoning and lemon-pickle or mango-juice to taste, and
serve boiled rice with it.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d. per quart, with stock No. 105.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--This soup can also be made with breast of veal, or calf's head.
Vegetable Mullagatawny is made with veal stock, by boiling and pulping
chopped vegetable marrow, cucumbers, onions, and tomatoes, and seasoning
with curry powder and cayenne. Nice pieces of meat, good curry powder,
and strong stock, are necessary to make this soup good.
[Illustration: CORIANDER.]
CORIANDER.--This plant, which largely enters into the
composition of curry powder with turmeric, originally comes from
the East; but it has long been cultivated in England, especially
in Essex, where it is reared for the use of confectioners and
druggists. In private gardens, it is cultivated for the sake of
its tender leaves, which are highly aromatic, and are employed
in soups and salads. Its seeds are used in large quantities for
the purposes of distillation.
A GOOD MUTTON SOUP.
175. INGREDIENTS.--A neck of mutton about 5 or 6 lbs., 3 carrots, 3
turnips, 2 onions, a large bunch of sweet herbs, including parsley; salt
and pepper to taste; a little sherry, if liked; 3 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Lay the ingredients in a covered pan before the fire, and let
them remain there the whole day, stirring occasionally. The next day put
the whole into a stewpan, and place it on a brisk fire. When it
commences to boil, take the pan off the fire, and put it on one side to
simmer until the meat is done. When ready for use, take out the meat,
dish it up with carrots and turnips, and send it to table; strain the
soup, let it cool, skim off all the fat, season and thicken it with a
tablespoonful, or rather more, of arrowroot; flavour with a little
sherry, simmer for 5 minutes, and serve.
_Time_.--15 hours. _Average cost_, including the meat, 1s. 3d. per
quart.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
THE SHEEP.--This animal formed the principal riches of the
patriarchs, in the days of old, and, no doubt, multiplied, until
its species were spread over the greater part of Western Asia;
but at what period it was introduced to Britain is not known. It
is now found in almost every part of the globe, although, as a
domestic animal, it depends almost entirely upon man for its
support. Its value, however, amply repays him for whatever care
and kindness he may bestow upon it; for, like the ox, there is
scarcely a part of it that he cannot convert to some useful
purpose. The fleece, which serves it for a covering, is
appropriated by man, to serve the same end to himself, whilst
its skin is also applied to various purposes in civilized life.
Its entrails are used as strings for musical instruments, and
its bones are calcined, and employed as tests in the trade of
the refiner. Its milk, being thicker than that of the cow,
yields a greater quantity of butter and cheese, and its flesh is
among the most wholesome and nutritive that can be eaten.
Thomson has beautifully described the appearance of the sheep,
when bound to undergo the operation of being shorn of its wool.
"Behold, where bound, and of its robe bereft
By needy man, that all-depending lord,
How meek, how patient, the mild creature lies!
What softness in his melancholy face,
What dumb complaining innocence appears!"
OX-CHEEK SOUP.
176. INGREDIENTS.--An ox-cheek, 2 oz. of butter, 3 or 4 slices of lean
ham or bacon, 1 parsnip, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 3 heads of celery, 3
blades of mace, 4 cloves, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1 bay-leaf, a
teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, 1 head of celery, browning,
the crust of a French roll, 6 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Lay the ham in the bottom of the stewpan, with the butter;
break the bones of the cheek, wash it clean, and put it on the ham. Cut
the vegetables small, add them to the other ingredients, and set the
whole over a slow fire for 1/4 of an hour. Now put in the water, and
simmer gently till it is reduced to 4 quarts; take out the fleshy part
of the cheek, and strain the soup into a clean stewpan; thicken with
flour, put in a head of sliced celery, and simmer till the celery is
tender. If not a good colour, use a little browning. Cut the meat into
small square pieces, pour the soup over, and serve with the crust of a
French roll in the tureen. A glass of sherry much improves this soup.
_Time_.--3 to 4 hours. _Average cost_, 8d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 12 persons.
THE OX.--Of the quadrupedal animals, the flesh of those that
feed upon herbs is the most wholesome and nutritious for human
food. In the early ages, the ox was used as a religious
sacrifice, and, in the eyes of the Egyptians was deemed so
sacred as to be worthy of exaltation to represent Taurus, one of
the twelve signs of the zodiac. To this day, the Hindoos
venerate the cow, whose flesh is forbidden to be eaten, and
whose fat, supposed to have been employed to grease the
cartridges of the Indian army, was one of the proximate causes
of the great Sepoy rebellion of 1857. There are no animals of
greater use to man than the tribe to which the ox belongs. There
is hardly a part of them that does not enter into some of the
arts and purposes of civilized life. Of their horns are made
combs, knife-handles, boxes, spoons, and drinking-cups. They are
also made into transparent plates for lanterns; an invention
ascribed, in England, to King Alfred. Glue is made from their
gristles, cartilages, and portions of their hides. Their bones
often form a substitute for ivory; their skins, when calves, are
manufactured into vellum; their blood is the basis of Prussian
blue; their sinews furnish fine and strong threads, used by
saddlers; their hair enters into various manufactures; their
tallow is made into candles; their flesh is eaten, and the
utility of the milk and cream of the cow is well known.
OX-TAIL SOUP.
177. INGREDIENTS.--2 ox-tails, 2 slices of ham, 1 oz. of butter, 2
carrots, 2 turnips, 3 onions, 1 leek, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of
savoury herbs, 1 bay-leaf, 12 whole peppercorns, 4 cloves, a
tablespoonful of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 1/2 glass of port
wine, 3 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Cut up the tails, separating them at the joints; wash them, and
put them in a stewpan, with the butter. Cut the vegetables in slices,
and add them, with the peppercorns and herbs. Put in 1/2 pint of water,
and stir it over a sharp fire till the juices are drawn. Fill up the
stewpan with the water, and, when boiling, add the salt. Skim well, and
simmer very gently for 4 hours, or until the tails are tender. Take them
out, skim and strain the soup, thicken with flour, and flavour with the
ketchup and port wine. Put back the tails, simmer for 5 minutes, and
serve.
_Time_.--4-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. 3d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
PARTRIDGE SOUP.
178. INGREDIENTS.--2 partridges, 3 slices of lean ham, 2 shred onions, 1
head of celery, 1 large carrot, and 1 turnip cut into any fanciful
shapes, 1 small lump of sugar, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to
taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105, or common, No. 106.
_Mode_.--Cut the partridges into pieces, and braise them in the butter
and ham until quite tender; then take out the legs, wings, and breast,
and set them by. Keep the backs and other trimmings in the braise, and
add the onions and celery; any remains of cold game can be put in, and 3
pints of stock. Simmer slowly for 1 hour, strain it, and skim the fat
off as clean as possible; put in the pieces that were taken out, give it
one boil, and skim again to have it quite clear, and add the sugar and
seasoning. Now simmer the cut carrot and turnip in 1 pint of stock; when
quite tender, put them to the partridges, and serve.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. or 1s. 6d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from September to February.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--The meat of the partridges may be pounded with the crumb of a
French roll, and worked with the soup through a sieve. Serve with stewed
celery cut in slices, and put in the tureen.
THE PARTRIDGE.--This is a timorous bird, being easily taken. It
became known to the Greeks and Romans, whose tables it helped to
furnish with food. Formerly, the Red was scarce in Italy, but
its place was supplied by the White, which, at considerable
expense, was frequently procured from the Alps. The Athenians
trained this bird for fighting, and Severus used to lighten the
cares of royalty by witnessing the spirit of its combats. The
Greeks esteemed its leg most highly, and rejected the other
portions as unfashionable to be eaten. The Romans, however,
ventured a little further, and ate the breast, whilst we
consider the bird as wholly palatable. It is an inhabitant of
all the temperate countries of Europe, but, on account of the
geniality of the climate, it abounds most in the Ukraine.
PHEASANT SOUP.
179. INGREDIENTS.--2 pheasants, 1/4 lb. of butter, 2 slices of ham, 2
large onions sliced, 1/2 head of celery, the crumb of two French rolls,
the yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, salt and cayenne to taste, a little
pounded mace, if liked; 3 quarts of stock No. 105.
_Mode_.--Cut up the pheasants, flour and braise them in the butter and
ham till they are of a nice brown, but not burnt. Put them in a stewpan,
with the onions, celery, and seasoning, and simmer for 2 hours. Strain
the soup; pound the breasts with the crumb of the roll previously
soaked, and the yolks of the eggs; put it to the soup, give one boil,
and serve.
_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 10d. per quart, or, if made
with fragments of gold game, 1s.
_Seasonable_ from October to February.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
_Note_.--Fragments, pieces and bones of cold game, may be used to great
advantage in this soup, and then 1 pheasant will suffice.
PORTABLE SOUP.
180. INGREDIENTS.--2 knuckles of veal, 3 shins of beef, 1 large faggot
of herbs, 2 bay-leaves, 2 heads of celery, 3 onions, 3 carrots, 2 blades
of mace, 6 cloves, a teaspoonful of salt, sufficient water to cover all
the ingredients.
_Mode_.--Take the marrow from the bones; put all the ingredients in a
stock-pot, and simmer slowly for 12 hours, or more, if the meat be not
done to rags; strain it off, and put it in a very cool place; take off
all the fat, reduce the liquor in a shallow pan, by setting it over a
sharp fire, but be particular that it does not burn; boil it fast and
uncovered for 8 hours, and keep it stirred. Put it into a deep dish, and
set it by for a day. Have ready a stewpan of boiling water, place the
dish in it, and keep it boiling; stir occasionally, and when the soup is
thick and ropy, it is done. Form it into little cakes by pouring a small
quantity on to the bottom of cups or basins; when cold, turn them out on
a flannel to dry. Keep them from the air in tin canisters.
_Average cost_ of this quantity, 16s.
_Note_.--Soup can be made in 5 minutes with this, by dissolving a small
piece, about the size of a walnut, in a pint of warm water, and
simmering for 2 minutes. Vermicelli, macaroni, or other Italian pastes,
may be added.
THE LAUREL or BAY.--The leaves of this tree frequently enter
into the recipes of cookery; but they ought not to be used
without the greatest caution, and not at all unless the cook is
perfectly aware of their effects. It ought to be known, that
there are two kinds of bay-trees,--the Classic laurel, whose
leaves are comparatively harmless, and the Cherry-laurel, which
is the one whose leaves are employed in cookery. They have a
kernel-like flavour, and are used in blanc-mange, puddings,
custards &c.; but when acted upon by water, they develop prussic
acid, and, therefore, but a small number of the leaves should be
used at a time.
RABBIT SOUP.
181. INGREDIENTS.--2 large rabbits, or 3 small ones; a faggot of savoury
herbs, 1/2 head of celery, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace, salt and
white pepper to taste, a little pounded mace, 1/2 pint of cream, the
yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, the crumb of a French roll, nearly 3 quarts
of water.
_Mode_.--Make the soup with the legs and shoulders of the rabbit, and
keep the nice pieces for a dish or _entrée_. Put them into warm water,
and draw the blood; when quite clean, put them in a stewpan, with a
faggot of herbs, and a teacupful, or rather more, of veal stock or
water. Simmer slowly till done through, and add the 3 quarts of water,
and boil for an hour. Take out the rabbet, pick the meat from the bones,
covering it up to keep it white; put the bones back in the liquor, add
the vegetables, and simmer for 2 hours; skim and strain, and let it
cool. Now pound the meat in a mortar, with the yolks of the eggs, and
the crumb of the roll previously soaked; rub it through a tammy, and
gradually add it to the strained liquor, and simmer for 15 minutes. Mix
arrowroot or rice-flour with the cream (say 2 dessert-spoonfuls), and
stir in the soup; bring it to a boil, and serve. This soup must be very
white, and instead of thickening it with arrowroot or rice-flour,
vermicelli or pearl barley can be boiled in a little stock, and put in 5
minutes before serving.
_Time_.--Nearly 4 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from September to March.
_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.
REGENCY SOUP.
182. Ingredients.--Any bones and remains of any cold game, such as of
pheasants, partridges, &c.; 2 carrots, 2 small onions, 1 head of celery,
1 turnip, 1/4 lb. of pearl barley, the yolks of 3 eggs boiled hard, 1/4
pint of cream, salt to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105, or common
stock, No. 106.
_Mode_.--Place the bones or remains of game in the stewpan, with the
vegetables sliced; pour over the stock, and simmer for 2 hours; skim off
all the fat, and strain it. Wash the barley, and boil it in 2 or 3
waters before putting it to the soup; finish simmering in the soup, and
when the barley is done, take out half, and pound the other half with
the yolks of the eggs. When you have finished pounding, rub it through a
clean tammy, add the cream, and salt if necessary; give one boil, and
serve very hot, putting in the barley that was taken out first.
_Time_.--2-1/2 hours. _Average cost_, 1s. per quart, if made with medium
stock, or 6d. per quart, with common stock.
_Seasonable_ from September to March.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
SOUP A LA REINE.
I.
183. INGREDIENTS.--1 large fowl, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, the crumb of 1
1/2 French roll, 1/2 pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 small lump of
sugar, 2 quarts of good white veal stock, No. 107.
_Mode_.--Boil the fowl gently in the stock till quite tender, which will
be in about an hour, or rather more; take out the fowl, pull the meat
from the bones, and put it into a mortar with the almonds, and pound
very fine. When beaten enough, put the meat back in the stock, with the
crumb of the rolls, and let it simmer for an hour; rub it through a
tammy, add the sugar, 1/2 pint of cream that has boiled, and, if you
prefer, cut the crust of the roll into small round pieces, and pour the
soup over it, when you serve.
_Time_.--2 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_, 2s. 7d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--All white soups should be warmed in a vessel placed in another
of boiling water. (_See_ BAIN MARIE, No. 87.)
II. (Economical.)
184. INGREDIENTS.--Any remains of roast chickens, 1/2 teacupful of rice,
salt and pepper to taste, 1 quart of stock No. 106.
_Mode_.--Take all the white meat and pound it with the rice, which has
been slightly cooked, but not much. When it is all well pounded, dilute
with the stock, and pass through a sieve. This soup should neither be
too clear nor too thick.
_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 4d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ all the year.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
_Note_.--If stock is not at hand, put the chicken-bones in water, with
an onion, carrot, a few sweet herbs, a blade of mace, pepper and salt,
and stew for 3 hours.
STEW SOUP OF SALT MEAT.
185. INGREDIENTS.--Any pieces of salt beef or pork, say 2 lbs.; 4
carrots, 4 parsnips, 4 turnips, 4 potatoes, 1 cabbage, 2 oz. of oatmeal
or ground rice, seasoning of salt and pepper, 2 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Cut up the meat small, add the water, and let it simmer for
23/4 hours. Now add the vegetables, cut in thin small slices; season,
and boil for 1 hour. Thicken with the oatmeal, and serve.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, 3d. per quart without the meat.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
_Note_.--If rice is used instead of oatmeal, put it in with the
vegetables.
STEW SOUP.
I.
186. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of beef, 5 onions, 5 turnips, 3/4 lb. of
_rice_, a large bunch of parsley, a few sweet herbs, pepper and salt, 2
quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Cut the beef up in small pieces, add the other ingredients, and
boil gently for 21/2 hours. Oatmeal or potatoes would be a great
improvement.
_Time_.-21/2 hours. _Average cost_, 6d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
II.
187. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of beef, mutton, or pork; 1/2 pint of split
peas, 4 turnips, 8 potatoes, 2 onions, 2 oz. of oatmeal or 3 oz. of
rice, 2 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Cut the meat in small pieces, as also the vegetables, and add
them, with the peas, to the water. Boil gently for 3 hours; thicken with
the oatmeal, boil for another 1/4 hour, stirring all the time, and
season with pepper and salt.
_Time_.--3-1/4 hours. _Average cost_, 4d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ in winter.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--This soup may be made of the liquor in which tripe has been
boiled, by adding vegetables, seasoning, rice, &c.
TURKEY SOUP (a Seasonable Dish at Christmas).
188. INGREDIENTS.--2 quarts of medium stock, No. 105, the remains of a
cold roast turkey, 2 oz. of rice-flour or arrowroot, salt and pepper to
taste, 1 tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup.
_Mode_.--Cut up the turkey in small pieces, and put it in the stock; let
it simmer slowly until the bones are quite clean. Take the bones out,
and work the soup through a sieve; when cool, skim well. Mix the
rice-flour or arrowroot to a batter with a little of the soup; add it
with the seasoning and sauce, or ketchup. Give one boil, and serve.
_Time_.--4 hours. _Average cost_, 10d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ at Christmas.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--Instead of thickening this soup, vermicelli or macaroni may be
served in it.
THE TURKEY.--The common turkey is a native of North America, and
was thence introduced to England, in the reign of Henry VIII.
According to Tusser's "Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry,"
about the year 1585 it begun to form a dish at our rural
Christmas feasts.
"Beef, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best,
Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well dress'd,
Cheese, apples, and nuts, jolly carols to hear,
As then in the country is counted good cheer."
It is one of the most difficult birds to rear, of any that we
have; yet, in its wild state, is found in great abundance in the
forests of Canada, where, it might have been imagined that the
severity of the climate would be unfavourable to its ever
becoming plentiful. They are very fond of the seeds of nettles,
and the seeds of the foxglove poison them.
TURTLE SOUP (founded on M. Ude's Recipe).
189. INGREDIENTS.--A turtle, 6 slices of ham, 2 knuckles of veal, 1
large bunch of sweet herbs, 3 bay-leaves, parsley, green onions, 1
onion, 6 cloves, 4 blades of mace, 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, 1 bottle of
Madeira, 1 lump of sugar. For the _Quenelles à Tortue_, 1 lb. of veal, 1
lb. of bread crumbs, milk, 7 eggs, cayenne, salt, spices, chopped
parsley, the juice of 2 lemons.
_Mode_.--To make this soup with less difficulty, cut off the head of the
turtle the preceding day. In the morning open the turtle by leaning
heavily with a knife on the shell of the animal's back, whilst you cut
this off all round. Turn it upright on its end, that all the water, &c.
may run out, when the flesh should be cut off along the spine, with the
knife sloping towards the bones, for fear of touching the gall, which
sometimes might escape the eye. When all the flesh about the members is
obtained, wash these clean, and let them drain. Have ready, on the fire,
a large vessel full of boiling water, into which put the shells; and
when you perceive that they come easily off, take them out of the water,
and prick them all, with those of the back, belly, fins, head, &c. Boil
the back and belly till the bones can be taken off, without, however,
allowing the softer parts to be sufficiently done, as they will be
boiled again in the soup. When these latter come off easily, lay them on
earthen dishes singly, for fear they should stick together, and put them
to cool. Keep the liquor in which you have blanched the softer parts,
and let the bones stew thoroughly in it, as this liquor must be used to
moisten all the sauces.
All the flesh of the interior parts, the four legs and head, must be
drawn down in the following manner:--Lay the slices of ham on the bottom
of a very large stewpan, over them the knuckles of veal, according to
the size of the turtle; then the inside flesh of the turtle, and over
the whole the members. Now moisten with the water in which you are
boiling the shell, and draw it down thoroughly. It may now be
ascertained if it be thoroughly done by thrusting a knife into the
fleshy part of the meat. If no blood appears, it is time to moisten it
again with the liquor in which the bones, &c. have been boiling. Put in
a large bunch of all such sweet herbs as are used in the cooking of a
turtle,--sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3
bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and a
large onion stuck with 6 cloves. Let the whole be thoroughly done. With
respect to the members, probe them, to see whether they are done, and if
so, drain and send them to the larder, as they are to make their
appearance only when the soup is absolutely completed. When the flesh is
also completely done, strain it through a silk sieve, and make a very
thin white _roux;_ for turtle soup must not be much thickened. When the
flour is sufficiently done on a slow fire, and has a good colour,
moisten it with the liquor, keeping it over the fire till it boils.
Ascertain that the sauce is neither too thick nor too thin; then draw
the stewpan on the side of the stove, to skim off the white scum, and
all the fat and oil that rise to the surface of the sauce. By this time
all the softer parts will be sufficiently cold; when they must be cut to
about the size of one or two inches square, and thrown into the soup,
which must now be left to simmer gently. When done, skim off all the fat
and froth. Take all the leaves of the herbs from the stock,--sweet
basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3 bay-leaves,
common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and a large onion
cut in four pieces, with a few blades of mace. Put these in a stewpan,
with about 1/4 lb. of fresh butter, and let it simmer on a slow fire
till quite melted, when pour in 1 bottle of good Madeira, adding a small
bit of sugar, and let it boil gently for 1 hour. When done, rub it
through a tammy, and add it to the soup. Let this boil, till no white
scum rises; then take with a skimmer all the bits of turtle out of the
sauce, and put them in a clean stewpan: when you have all out, pour the
soup over the bits of turtle, through a tammy, and proceed as follows:--
QUENELLES À TORTUE.--Make some _quenelles à tortue_, which being
substitutes for eggs, do not require to be very delicate. Take out the
fleshy part of a leg of veal, about 1 lb., scrape off all the meat,
without leaving any sinews or fat, and soak in milk about the same
quantity of crumbs of bread. When the bread is well soaked, squeeze it,
and put it into a mortar, with the veal, a small quantity of calf's
udder, a little butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, boiled hard, a little
cayenne pepper, salt, and spices, and pound the whole very fine; then
thicken the mixture with 2 whole eggs, and the yolk of another. Next try
this _farce_ or stuffing in boiling-hot water, to ascertain its
consistency: if it is too thin, add the yolk of an egg. When the _farce_
is perfected, take half of it, and put into it some chopped parsley. Let
the whole cool, in order to roll it of the size of the yolk of an egg;
poach it in salt and boiling water, and when very hard, drain on a
sieve, and put it into the turtle. Before you send up, squeeze the juice
of 2 or 3 lemons, with a little cayenne pepper, and pour that into the
soup. THE FINS may be served as a _plat d'entrée_ with a little turtle
sauce; if not, on the following day you may warm the turtle _au bain
marie_, and serve the members entire, with a _matelote_ sauce, garnished
with mushrooms, cocks' combs, _quenelles_, &c. When either lemon-juice
or cayenne pepper has been introduced, no boiling must take place.
_Note_.--It is necessary to observe, that the turtle prepared a day
before it is used, is generally preferable, the flavour being more
uniform. Be particular, when you dress a very large turtle, to preserve
the green fat (be cautious not to study a very brown colour,--the
natural green of the fish is preferred by every epicure and true
connoisseur) in a separate stewpan, and likewise when the turtle is
entirely done, to have as many tureens as you mean to serve each time.
You cannot put the whole in a large vessel, for many reasons: first, it
will be long in cooling; secondly, when you take some out, it will break
all the rest into rags. If you warm in a _bain marie_, the turtle will
always retain the same taste; but if you boil it often, it becomes
strong, and loses the delicacy of its flavour.
THE COST OF TURTLE SOUP.--This is the most expensive soup brought to
table. It is sold by the quart,--one guinea being the standard price for
that quantity. The price of live turtle ranges from 8d. to 2s. per lb.,
according to supply and demand. When live turtle is dear, many cooks use
the tinned turtle, which is killed when caught, and preserved by being
put in hermetically-sealed canisters, and so sent over to England. The
cost of a tin, containing 2 quarts, or 4 lbs., is about £2, and for a
small one, containing the green fat, 7s. 6d. From these about 6 quarts
of good soup may be made.
[Illustration: THE TURTLE.]
THE GREEN TURTLE.--This reptile is found in large numbers on the
coasts of all the islands and continents within the tropics, in
both the old and new worlds. Their length is often five feet and
upwards, and they range in weight from 50 to 500 or 600 lbs. As
turtles find a constant supply of food on the coasts which they
frequent, they are not of a quarrelsome disposition, as the
submarine meadows in which they pasture, yield plenty for them
all. Like other species of amphibia, too, they have the power of
living many months without food; so that they live harmlessly
and peaceably together, notwithstanding that they seem to have
no common bond of association, but merely assemble in the same
places as if entirely by accident. England is mostly supplied
with them from the West Indies, whence they are brought alive
and in tolerable health. The green turtle is highly prized on
account of the delicious quality of its flesh, the fat of the
upper and lower shields of the animal being esteemed the richest
and most delicate parts. The soup, however, is apt to disagree
with weak stomachs. As an article of luxury, the turtle has only
come into fashion within the last 100 years, and some hundreds
of tureens of turtle soup are served annually at the lord
mayor's dinner in Guildhall.
A GOOD FAMILY SOUP.
190. INGREDIENTS.--Remains of a cold tongue, 2 lbs. of shin of beef, any
cold pieces of meat or beef-bones, 2 turnips, 2 carrots, 2 onions, 1
parsnip, 1 head of celery, 4 quarts of water, 1/2 teacupful of rice;
salt and pepper to taste.
_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients in a stewpan, and simmer gently for 4
hours, or until all the goodness is drawn from the meat. Strain off the
soup, and let it stand to get cold. The kernels and soft parts of the
tongue must be saved. When the soup is wanted for use, skim off all the
fat, put in the kernels and soft parts of the tongue, slice in a small
quantity of fresh carrot, turnip, and onion; stew till the vegetables
are tender, and serve with toasted bread.
_Time_.--5 hours. __Average cost_,3d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 12 persons.
HODGE-PODGE.
191. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of shin of beef, 3 quarts of water, 1 pint of
table-beer, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 head of celery; pepper and
salt to taste; thickening of butter and flour.
_Mode_.--Put the meat, beer, and water in a stewpan; simmer for a few
minutes, and skim carefully. Add the vegetables and seasoning; stew
gently till the meat is tender. Thicken with the butter and flour, and
serve with turnips and carrots, or spinach and celery.
_Time_.--3 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_, 3d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 12 persons.
TABLE BEER.--This is nothing more than a weak ale, and is not
made so much with a view to strength, as to transparency of
colour and an agreeable bitterness of taste. It is, or ought to
be, manufactured by the London professional brewers, from the
best pale malt, or amber and malt. Six barrels are usually drawn
from one quarter of malt, with which are mixed 4 or 5 lbs. of
hops. As a beverage, it is agreeable when fresh; but it is not
adapted to keep long.
FISH SOUPS.
FISH STOCK.
192. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of beef or veal (these can be omitted), any
kind of white fish trimmings, of fish which are to be dressed for table,
2 onions, the rind of 1/2 a lemon, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 carrots, 2
quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Cut up the fish, and put it, with the other ingredients, into
the water. Simmer for 2 hours; skim the liquor carefully, and strain it.
When a richer stock is wanted, fry the vegetables and fish before adding
the water.
_Time_.--2 hours. _Average cost_, with meat, 10d. per quart; without,
3d.
_Note_.--Do not make fish stock long before it is wanted, as it soon
turns sour.
CRAYFISH SOUP.
193. INGREDIENTS.--50 crayfish, 1/4 lb. of butter, 6 anchovies, the
crumb of 1 French roll, a little lobster-spawn, seasoning to taste, 2
quarts of medium stock, No. 105, or fish stock, No. 192.
_Mode_.--Shell the crayfish, and put the fish between two plates until
they are wanted; pound the shells in a mortar, with the butter and
anchovies; when well beaten, add a pint of stock, and simmer for 3/4 of
an hour. Strain it through a hair sieve, put the remainder of the stock
to it, with the crumb of the rolls; give it one boil, and rub it through
a tammy, with the lobster-spawn. Put in the fish, but do not let the
soup boil, after it has been rubbed through the tammy. If necessary, add
seasoning.
_Time_.--1-1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 3d. or 1s. 9d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from January to July.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
[Illustration: CRAYFISH.]
THE CRAYFISH.--This is one of those fishes that were highly
esteemed by the ancients. The Greeks preferred it when brought
from Alexandria, and the Romans ate it boiled with cumin, and
seasoned with pepper and other condiments. A recipe tells us,
that crayfish can be preserved several days in baskets with
fresh grass, such as the nettle, or in a bucket with about
three-eighths of an inch of water. More water would kill them,
because the large quantity of air they require necessitates the
water in which they are kept, to be continually renewed.
EEL SOUP.
194. INGREDIENTS.--3 lbs. of eels, 1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, 3 blades of
mace, 1 bunch of sweet herbs, 1/4 oz. of peppercorns, salt to taste, 2
tablespoonfuls of flour, 1/4 pint of cream, 2 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Wash the eels, cut them into thin slices, and put them in the
stewpan with the butter; let them simmer for a few minutes, then pour
the water to them, and add the onion, cut in thin slices, the herbs,
mace, and seasoning. Simmer till the eels are tender, but do not break
the fish. Take them out carefully, mix the flour smoothly to a batter
with the cream, bring it to a boil, pour over the eels, and serve.
_Time_.--1 hour, or rather more. _Average cost_, 10d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from June to March.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--This soup may be flavoured differently by omitting the cream,
and adding a little ketchup or Harvey's sauce.
LOBSTER SOUP.
195. INGREDIENTS.--3 large lobsters, or 6 small ones; the crumb of a
French roll, 2 anchovies, 1 onion, 1 small bunch of sweet herbs, 1 strip
of lemon-peel, 2 oz. of butter, a little nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of flour,
1 pint of cream, 1 pint of milk; forcemeat balls, mace, salt and pepper
to taste, bread crumbs, 1 egg, 2 quarts of water.
_Mode_.--Pick the meat from the lobsters, and beat the fins, chine, and
small claws in a mortar, previously taking away the brown fin and the
bag in the head. Put it in a stewpan, with the crumb of the roll,
anchovies, onions, herbs, lemon-peel, and the water; simmer gently till
all the goodness is extracted, and strain it off. Pound the spawn in a
mortar, with the butter, nutmeg, and flour, and mix with it the cream
and milk. Give one boil up, at the same time adding the tails cut in
pieces. Make the forcemeat balls with the remainder of the lobster,
seasoned with mace, pepper, and salt, adding a little flour, and a few
bread crumbs; moisten them with the egg, heat them in the soup, and
serve.
_Time_.--2 hours, or rather more. _Average cost_, 3s 6d per quart.
_Seasonable_ from April to October.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
OYSTER SOUP.
I.
196. INGREDIENTS.--6 dozen of oysters, 2 quarts of white stock, 1/2 pint
of cream, 2 oz. of butter, 1-1/2 oz. of flour; salt, cayenne, and mace
to taste.
_Mode_.--Scald the oysters in their own liquor; take them out, beard
them, and put them in a tureen. Take a pint of the stock, put in the
beards and the liquor, which must be carefully strained, and simmer for
1/2 an hour. Take it off the fire, strain it again, and add the
remainder of the stock with the seasoning and mace. Bring it to a boil,
add the thickening of butter and flour, simmer for 5 minutes, stir in
the boiling cream, pour it over the oysters, and serve.
_Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. 8d. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from September to April.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--This soup can be made less rich by using milk instead of cream,
and thickening with arrowroot instead of butter and flour.
II.
197. INGREDIENTS.--2 quarts of good mutton broth, 6 dozen oysters, 2 oz.
butter, 1 oz. of flour.
_Mode_.--Beard the oysters, and scald them in their own liquor; then add
it, well strained, to the broth; thicken with the butter and flour, and
simmer for 1/4 of an hour. Put in the oysters, stir well, but do not let
it boil, and serve very hot.
_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 2s. per quart.
_Seasonable_ from September to April.
_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
SEASON OF OYSTERS.--From April and May to the end of July,
oysters are said to be sick; but by the end of August they
become healthy, having recovered from the effects of spawning.
When they are not in season, the males have a black, and the
females a milky substance in the gill. From some lines of
Oppian, it would appear that the ancients were ignorant that the
oyster is generally found adhering to rocks. The starfish is one
of the most deadly enemies of these bivalves. The poet says:--
The prickly star creeps on with full deceit
To force the oyster from his close retreat.
When gaping lids their widen'd void display,
The watchful star thrusts in a pointed ray,
Of all its treasures spoils the rifled case,
And empty shells the sandy hillock grace.
PRAWN SOUP.
198. INGREDIENTS.--2 quarts of fish stock or water, 2 pints of prawns,
the crumbs of a French roll, anchovy sauce or mushroom ketchup to taste,
1 blade of mace, 1 pint of vinegar, a little lemon-juice.
_Mode_.--Pick out the tails of the prawns, put the bodies in a stewpan
with 1 blade of mace, 1/2 pint of vinegar, and the same quantity of
water; stew them for 1/4 hour, and strain off the liquor. Put the fish
stock or water into a stewpan; add the strained liquor, pound the prawns
with the crumb of a roll moistened with a little of the soup, rub them
through a tammy, and mix them by degrees with the soup; add ketchup or
anchovy sauce to taste, with a little lemon-juice. When it is well
cooked, put in a few picked prawns; let them get thoroughly hot, and
serve. If not thick enough, put in a little butter and flour.
_Time_.--hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 1d. per quart, if made with water.
_Seasonable_ at any time. _Sufficient_ for 8 persons.
_Note_.--This can be thickened with tomatoes, and vermicelli served in
it, which makes it a very tasteful soup.
[Illustration: THE PRAWN.]
THE PRAWN.--This little fish bears a striking resemblance to the
shrimp, but is neither so common nor so small. It is to be found
on most of the sandy shores of Europe. The Isle of Wight is
famous for shrimps, where they are potted; but both the prawns
and the shrimps vended in London, are too much salted for the
excellence of their natural flavour to be preserved. They are
extremely lively little animals, as seen in their native
retreats.
[Illustration]
FISH.