protected on the E. by Cape Croisette, and on the W. by Cape Couronne.
Its approaches are lighted by 6 lighthouses, of which the most distant
is on the Planier rock, 130 ft. above the sea, and 8 m. S.W. from
Marseilles. The large steam vessels lie in the dock La Joliette,
covering 55 acres, and finished in 1853; while the old-fashioned
trading-vessels, with their lateen sails, crowd together in the harbour
called emphatically the “Port,” containing 75½ acres. From the end of
the “Port” extends eastwards the handsome and greatly-frequented street
La Cannebière, so called from the rope-walks, whose site it now
occupies. At nearly the middle of the N. side of the “Port” is the
Hôtel
de Ville (1 in plan), built in the 17th cent., and adorned
with sculpture by Puget, born at Marseilles; while at the western
extremity of the same side, next Fort St. Jean, is a low building called
La Consigne, or Health Office. Over the chimney-piece in the
council-room of the Consigne is a beautiful relief in white marble
by Puget, representing the plague at Milan. To the right is a picture by
Gerard, representing Bishop Belsunce administering the sacrament to the
plague-stricken inhabitants of Marseilles in 1720. To the left, St. Roch
before the Virgin, by David. Fronting the windows, “The frigate Justice
returning from Constantinople with the plague on board,” “l’an 4 de la
République.” Opposite the fireplace, “The cholera on board the
Melpomene,” by Horace Vernet. Next it, by Guerin, “The Chevalier Rose
assisting to bury those who had died of the plague.” Between them is a
Crucifixion by Auber. Between the two windows is a portrait of Bishop
Belsunce. (Fee, ½ fr.) Near the Consigne is the pier of the ferry-boats.
Above the Hôtel de Ville is the town infirmary, and beyond it, on a
terrace 30 ft. above the quay of Joliette,
Marseilles: Cathedral.
Arc de Triomphe.
the Cathedral, a Byzantine basilica, 460 ft. from S. to N.,
and 165 ft. from E. to W. at the transept; built of gray Florentine
stone alternating with a whitish sandstone from the neighbourhood of
Arles. The nave is 52 ft. wide, and the roof 82 ft. high. The great dome
is 196 ft. high. Behind the cathedral are the Episcopal palace
116
(5 in plan), the Seminary (4), and the Hospice de la Charité (7).
Eastwards, in the Place d’Aix, is the Arc de
Triomphe, an imitation of the arch of Titus at Rome, commenced
on the 4th November 1825, to commemorate the prowess of the Duc
d’Angoulême in the Spanish campaign of 1823. It is 58 ft. high and 58
ft. wide, has on the south side statuary by Ramey emblematic of the
battles of Fleurus and Heliopolis, and on the north side similar
statuary by David, representing the battles of Marengo and Austerlitz.
Over the arch is the inscription— “_A la République_.” From
the arch a steep street, the R. d’Aix, descends to the Cours Belsunce,
with at the N. end a statue of Bishop Belsunce, “pour perpetuer le
souvenir de sa charité et de son dévouement durant la peste; qui desola
Marseille” in 1720. By the side of it are the terminus of the Bonneveine tram (p. 113) and the Alcazar
Lyrique, a kind of superior café chantant.
Marseilles: Bourse.
The continuation southwards of the Cours is the Rue de Rome, and
farther S. the spacious Promenade du Prado. At the S. end of the Cours
are, to the right the R. Cannebière, and to the left the
R. Noailles, the two best streets in Marseilles. At the W. or Port
end of the former is the Bourse (marked 10 in the plan),
a parallelogramic building, 154 feet broad by 223 long, erected
between 1858 and 1860. The principal hall, 60 feet by 94, is ornamented
with mural paintings. In the vestibule are allegorical statues of
Marseilles and France, and a bas-relief representing Marseilles
receiving productions from all parts of the world. On the opposite side
of the street, by the R. de Paradis, are the Opera-house, the Palais de
Justice, and the Préfecture (12 in plan). The Palais de Justice, built
in 1862 in the Greek style, has on the pediment and peristyle
bas-reliefs by Guillaume, representing Justice, Force, Prudence, etc.
The outer hall, the “Salle des Pas-Perdus,” is surrounded by 16 columns
of red marble. The Préfecture is a splendid edifice in the Renaissance
style, 300 ft. long by 260 ft. wide, adorned with statues and
bas-reliefs, and furnished with a grand staircase, escalier d’honneur,
communicating with handsome reception-room ornamented with mural
paintings.
From the Bourse a pleasant road leads up to the church of Notre
Dame de la Garde, one of the principal sights, and the most
prominent object in Marseilles. From the Rue Paradis turn to the right
by the Cours Pierre-Puget, traverse the pretty promenade, the Jardin de
Colline, and then ascend the narrow road, the Montée des Oblats. On
descending be careful to take the path to the left of the stone altar
under a canopy on 4 columns. A small omnibus drives up the length
of the Plateau
117
de la Croix, whence a series of 178 steps has to be ascended to attain
to the terrace on which the church stands, 535 ft. above the sea. The
church is shut between 12 and 2, but the tower, ascended by 154 steps,
can always be visited. Fee, ½ fr. It is 148 ft. high, crowned with a
gilded image of Mary 30 ft. high, ascended by steps in the interior to
the head. The view, which is just as good from the terrace, commands the
whole of Marseilles. To the N.E. the culminating peak is Le Taoume, 2166
ft.; to the S.E. is the Montagne de Carpiagne, 1873 ft.; and S. from it
Mont Puget, 1798 ft. In front of Marseilles are the islands Ratonneau
and Pomègue, connected by a breakwater. Between them and the mainland is
the little island of If (p. 118). Off
Cape Croisette are the islands of Maïre and Peirot. The road down the
little ravine (the Valon de l’Oriol) leads to the Corniche.
Marseilles: Notre Dame de la Garde.
NOTRE DAME DE LA GARDE.
Notre Dame, an edifice in the Roman-Byzantine style, consists of an
upper and a lower church. The dome over the apse is 48 ft. high. The
interior of the church is lined with Carrara marble, but the pilasters
and columns are of marble from Africa and the Alps. Over the high altar
in the low church is the miracle-working image of Notre Dame. It is
about 6 ft. high, stands on a pedestal of olive wood, is hollow, and
made of a kind of stucco (carton-pierre) silvered over, excepting the
face and hands of both it and the child. It weighs 1 cwt. 1 qr. and 14
lbs. On the high altar in the high church is a replica, nearly all of
silver. The walls are covered with expressions of gratitude to it, and
with pictures illustrating the manner in which its miraculous
interposition was displayed.
Marseilles: Lycée. Saint Victor.
From the streets Cannebière and Noailles other handsome streets
ramify, such as the Rue de Rome and the Cours Liautaud. Just where the
Cours Liautaud leaves the Rue Noailles is the Lycée or head
grammar-school, and in the neighbourhood (marked 11) La Bibliothèque et
l’École des Beaux Arts, forming together a palatial edifice off the
Boulevard du Musée, 177 ft. long by 164 ft. wide. On the ground-floor
are the class-rooms, and on the first story, the library, the collection
of medals, and the reading-room, 131 ft. long by 19½ wide. Among the
medals are 2600 belonging to Provence. The library contains 95,000 vols.
and 1300 manuscripts.
At the mouth of the Port, on an eminence above Fort St. Nicolas and
the Bassin de Carenage (graving dock), is the oldest church in
Marseilles, Saint Victor, all that remains of one
of the most famous
118
monasteries in Christendom, founded in 420 by St. Cassien, ordained
deacon of the church in Constantinople by Chrysostom. The exterior of
St. Victor resembles a badly-built small fort surrounded by 7 unequal
and uncouth square towers, the two largest at the N. side having been
added by Pope Urban V., a former abbot of the monastery. Over
the entrance door under these towers is a rude representation of St.
George and the dragon. The upper church dates only from the beginning of
the 13th cent. Near the sacristy in the S. side a stair of 32 steps
leads down to the original church, a large and spacious crypt. Of
this crypt the most ancient part is the small chapel shut off from the
rest, with several tombs hewn in the rock. Among those buried here were
St. Victor, and, according to the tradition of the place, Lazarus also,
who is said to have died at Marseilles. The ancient appearance of this
chapel is marred by a modern altar with a stone reredos, sculptured, it
is said, by Puget. The shaft of one of the columns has a sculptured rope
coiled round it. Pieces of ornamental sculpture are seen at different
parts of the crypt, and remnants of a fresco painting. This also is the
sanctuary of a miraculous wooden image of Mary and Child, said to have
been carved by Luke. It is of a dark colour, is 3½ ft. high, and is
called Notre Dame de Confession, whose intercession is sought by crowds
of votaries from the 2d till the 9th of February. The best of the
sarcophagi have been removed to the museum in the Château Borély (p. 113). At the foot of
the eminence on which the church stands are Fort St. Nicolas and the
Bassin de Carénage, whence a sou ferry steamboat crosses every four
minutes to the other side. Among the modern churches perhaps the best is
Saint Vincent de Paul, built in the style of the 13th cent.
Island of If.
_Excursions._—The principal excursion from Marseilles is
to the Island of If,
with its old château built by Francis I., long used as a state
prison. Boats for the excursion lie at the Cannebière end of the Port.
They charge from 5 to 9 frs.; but it is necessary to arrange the
price before starting. The landing-place is at some low shelving rocks,
whence a stair ascends to the terrace, on which are, to the right the
entrance to the Château, and a little to the left a restaurant.
A man conducts visitors over the castle, of which the most
interesting parts are the cell of Monte Christo, and the place where he
was thrown over into the sea.
Marseilles to Martigues, 24 m. N.W. by
rail (see map on
p. 66). At Martigues station omnibus for Port Bouc, 3¾ m.
W.; fare, ½ fr. From Port Bouc rail to Miramas, or steamboat by the
canal to Arles
119
(see p. 76). After leaving Marseilles the first station of importance is
L’Estaque (see
p. 80), 7 m. W., with large brick and tile works, at the foot
of a wooded hill. 4¼ m. farther is Pas-des-Lanciers, with an inn
close to the station. Here the Martigues branch separates from the main
line, and the Martigues passengers change carriages. Here also an
omnibus awaits passengers for Marignane, 3¾ m. W. on Lake
Marignane, pop. 7000. Remains of castle which Mirabeau inhabited. Lake
Marignane is separated from Lake Berre by a narrow strip of land. The
train after passing Marignane station arrives at the station for
Châteauneuf, a village S. towards the hills.
Martigues.
Les Martigues, pop.
10,000. At station, omnibus for the inn, Hôtel du Cours, and omnibus for
Port Bouc. Martigues is situated on both sides of the outlet from Lake
Berre, and on the islets within this outlet, all connected by bridges.
The railway station, the hotel, and a large part of the town are on the
E. or Jonquière side. On the first or smallest of the 3 islets are the
Tribunal de la Pèche and the fish-market; on the middle one is the Hôtel
de Ville; and on the third and largest are the hospital and the parish
church with sculptured portals. On the N. side of the canal is the part
of the town called Ferrières, containing the harbour and the reservoirs
for the manufacture of salt. Fishing is the principal industry of the
inhabitants.
There are in Marseilles numerous charitable institutions. The
infirmary (Hôtel Dieu), founded in 1188 and rebuilt in 1593, can
accommodate 750 patients. The workhouse (Hospice de la Charité) contains
generally from 600 to 680 orphan children and aged men and women. Near
the Prado is the Hôpital de la Concepcion, with 800 beds.
Marseilles: Industries.
Commerce.
The leading industry is soap-making, which occupies sixty factories,
with 1200 artisans, and produces annually 65,000 tons, valued at
£2,000,000 sterling. With this manufacture are connected oil and
chemical works; in the former, which employ 2000 to 2500 workmen, 55,000
tons of different oils are produced yearly. The chemical works employ
2000 operatives in the manufacture of the salts of soda and concentrated
acids, the value of whose annual production may be estimated at
£320,000. Metallurgy is another great industry; a large quantity of
ore, imported from Elba, Spain, and Algeria, is smelted in the blast
furnaces of St. Louis in the suburbs. The Mediterranean ironworks and
yards, together with other private companies, have large workshops for
the construction or repair of marine steam-engines, and for every branch
of iron shipbuilding, employing several thousand workmen. Marseilles is
a great centre for the extraction of silver from
120
lead ore; 16,000 tons of lead and 25 tons of fine silver are separated
annually.
_Commerce._—The chief imports in
point of bulk are cereals from the Black Sea, Turkey, and Algeria; but
the one of greatest value, raw silk, £4,000,000 yearly, comes from
Italy, Spain, the Levant, China, and Japan. Then follow metals, ores,
timber, sugar, wool, cotton, and rice. The principal exports in respect
of value are silk, woollen and cotton fabrics, refined sugars, wines and
spirits; those of greatest bulk are cereals in the form of flour,
building materials, oil-cakes, manufactures in metal, oils, glass and
crystal.
Marseilles: History.
_History._—The Greek colony of
Massalia (in Latin, _Massilia_) was founded by the enterprising
mariners of Phocæa in Asia Minor, about 600 b.c. After the ravages of successive streams of
invaders it was repeopled in the 10th century under the protection of
its viscounts. In 1112 the town bought up their rights, and was formed
into a republic, governed by a podestat, appointed for life. In the
remainder of the Middle Ages, however, this arrangement was modified,
the higher town was governed by the bishop, and had its harbour at the
creek of La Joliette. The southern suburb was governed by the abbot of
St. Victor, and owned the Port des Catalans. The republic or lower town,
situated between the two, retained the old harbour, and was the most
powerful of the three divisions. The period of the Crusades brought
great prosperity to Marseilles. King René made it his winter residence.
Louis XIV. came in person to Marseilles to quell the disturbances under
the Fronde. He took the town by storm, and had Fort St. Nicolas
constructed. Marseilles repeatedly suffered from the plague, and an
epidemic raged from May 1720 to May 1721 with a severity for which it is
almost impossible to find a parallel; Bishop Belsunce, Chevalier Rose,
and others immortalised themselves by their courage and devotion.
During the Revolution of 1793 the people rose against the
aristocracy, who up to that time had governed the commune. In the Terror
they rebelled against the Convention, but were promptly subdued by
General Carteux. The wars of the empire, by dealing a severe blow to
their maritime commerce, excited the hatred of the inhabitants against
Napoleon. Since 1815 the prosperity of the city has received a
considerable impulse from the conquest of Algeria and the opening of the
Suez Canal.
The Marseillaise.
_The
Marseillaise._—The famous anthem called “The Marseillaise”
was composed by Joseph Rouget de l’Isle, born at Lons-le-Saulnier on
121
the 10th May 1760, and died (it is said in poverty) at Choisy-le-Roi,
6¼ m. S. from Paris by rail, on the 27th June 1836. On the 24th
April 1792, the day before the departure of a detachment of volunteers,
Dietrich, the Mayor of Strasburg, gave a banquet to their officers, and
during dinner requested Rouget, then an officer in the engineers, to
compose a war-song for them. Although it was late before Rouget retired
to his room, he had both the music and the words ready before going to
bed. In the morning he handed the paper to his host, saying: “_Tenez,
voilá ce que vous m’avez demandé, mais j’ai peur que cela ne soit pas
trop bon._” “_Que dites vous mon ami?_” said Dietrich, after
casting his eye over the MS.; “_vous avez fait un chef-d’œuvre._”
The mayor’s wife having tried it on the piano, the orchestra of the
theatre were engaged to perform it in the principal square of Strasburg,
when such was the enthusiasm it created that the detachment marched off
with nearly 1000 instead of 600 volunteers. For them Rouget called the
air “Le Chant de guerre de l’armée du Rhin.” In July of the same year a
detachment of volunteers was sent to Paris from Marseilles by order of
Barbaroux, and as they were in the habit of singing this song both on
their march and in the capital it received the name of the “Hymne des
Marseillais.” Charles Barbaroux, born at Marseilles in 1767, died on the
scaffold June 1794, was one of the deputies who contributed most to the
fall of the monarchy. He belonged to the party called the Girondins.
122
MARSEILLES TO MENTON.
By Hyères, Cannes, Nice, and Monaco. 155
Miles.
See Maps, pages 113, 155, and 185.
MENTON
155
MARSEILLES. See under “Marseilles, Toulon, Nice et Menton” in the
“Indicateur.” The train, after leaving Marseilles on its way to Toulon,
traverses beautiful fertile valleys opening to the sea, and bounded by
mountains mostly with whitish calcareous tops. Having crossed the stream
Huveaune and traversed several tunnels and the Durance and Marseilles
canal, the slow trains halt at the villages of St. Marcel, with the
chapel of N. D. de Nazareth, and St. Menet, and La Penne, all
situated at the foot of Mont Carpiagne. During the season, from May to
October, a coach at the St. Menet station awaits passengers for the
cold mineral baths of Camoins, 2 m. distant, or 5 m. by
omnibus from Marseilles. The bathing establishment is about ¼ m.
from the village, in an undulating hollow, among plane trees, olives,
and vines. The water is cold, and contains iron and iodine, with a great
deal of sulphur. It is very effective as a tonic, and in diseases of the
liver. The establishment is quiet but comfortable. Pension 8 to
9 frs. per day.
10½ m. from Marseilles is Aubagne, pop. 8100. H. Notre Dame. Omnibus
daily to Marseilles, stopping at H. St. Louis. Every train halts at
Aubagne. Junction with loop-line to Valdonne, 10½ m. N., with
coal-mines and potteries. Coach from Valdonne to Aix by Fuveau, where
take rail.
After Aubagne the train passes through the tunnel of Mussaguet, and,
if a slow train, halts at the next station, Cassis, a pleasant
fishing village in an oasis at the head of a small bay, between Mont
Gardiole (to the west), culminating point 1800 ft., and Mont de Canaille
(to the east), culminating point 1365 ft. _Inn:_ Hotel and Pension
Liautaud. An omnibus awaits passengers at the station, 30 cents.
A very pretty path, passing by the Grotte de Regagne and through a
forest of pines on the sides of Mont Canaille, leads to La Ciotat,
6½ m. east by this road, and 23 m. from Marseilles by rail.
The station for La Ciotat is 2½ m. from the town, but an omnibus
awaits passengers. _Inn:_ H. de l’Univers, at the head of a
well-protected harbour, nearly encircled by two strong stone jetties. At
the western side of the little bay is a curious promontory, the Bec de
l’Aigle (well seen from the station), composed of three lofty rocks in a
row, perpendicular on the W. side. Beyond the point is the
123
small island Ile Vert. A little quarrying and coral fishing is carried
on in La Ciotat; but
the main business of the place is derived from the great shipbuilding
yards of the Messageries Maritimes, which may be said to employ directly
and indirectly the whole town.
4¼ m. beyond La Ciotat, or 27¼ from Marseilles, is the pretty village
of St. Cyr, close to the station. 4¼ m. farther is the station for
Bandol, a fishing village at the head of a shallow bay with small
islands. The industries are cooperage and the culture of immortelles in
fields on the plain and on terraces on the sides of the hills.
36 m. E. from Marseilles is the station Ollioules-St.-Nazaire, where
omnibuses await passengers for St. Nazaire, pop. 2500, a port on
the Mediterranean, and for Ollioules, pop. 3900, _Inn:_ Trotobas;
situated a short way inland on the Reppe, in a deep hollow surrounded by
limestone cliffs, which, about 2 m. up the river, are so close to
each other as to form a gloomy ravine, at one time the haunt of the
brigand Gaspard de Besse. The great industry of Ollioules, Nazaire, and
Bandol is the culture of immortelles, which, when made up into wreaths,
are sent all over France. The largest and best cost 24 frs. the dozen.
Yellow is the natural colour of the flower, but they are variously dyed
or bleached. They are cultivated on terraces among olive trees. Oranges
and lemons grow freely here. The coach for Beausset halts in the Place
of Ollioules, and then runs up the right bank of the Reppe to Beausset,
pop. 3000. _Inn:_ France.
La Seyne. Six Fours.
38½ m. E. from Marseilles, and 6 m. W. from Toulon, is La Seyne station. An omnibus
awaits passengers for the town, pop. 11,000, H. de la Méditerranée,
situated on the roads opposite Toulon, between which two ports there is
constant communication by steamers. Near the hotel is the office of the
omnibus for Tamaris, a village 1¼ m. S.E., at the foot of Fort
Napoleon, and on the Rade (roads) du Lazaret. The omnibus returns by
Balaguier. The Toulon omnibus for Reynier passes through La Seyne, from
which Reynier is 3 m. W. On the hill above Reynier are the new fort
and what remains of the ancient village of Six Fours, once a town of importance. The greater
part of the crumbling walls has been cleared away, and in their stead a
strong fort has been built, which occupies the entire summit of the
hill. The old church still remains, of which the earliest part, 6th
cent., is at the entrance extending east and west, and was originally
the whole building. To the right hand are two stone altars (6th cent.),
with windows behind them to give light to the officiating priest, who at
that time said mass with his face to the audience. The nave, extending
124
N. and S., was added in the 15th cent. It contains a Madonna by Puget,
and some pictures on wood of the 15th cent. Under the church is a large
cistern, formerly, according to the “Annales de Six Fours,” the chapel
or house where Mary, sent by her brother Lazarus, told the inhabitants
about Jesus. She was buried in the crypt of St.
Maximin (p. 143).
MARSEILLES TO CANNES.
opp. 123
[West End] _For continuation northwards see map, page 66._
[East End] _For continuation northwards see map,
page 163._
_For continuation westwards see map, page 66._
see caption
_For Esteral Mountains see map, page 146,
and for continuation eastwards see map, page
163._
_See Environs of Toulon, page 129._
Toulon.
TOULON.
42 m. E. from Marseilles, 13 m. W. from Hyères, 22 m. S. from
Carnoulles, 59 m. S.W. from St. Raphael, 79 m. S.W. from
Cannes, 98½ m. S.W. from Nice, and 113 m. S.W. from Menton, is
Toulon, pop. 71,000 (see maps, pp. 123
and 129). _Hotels:_ near the station, the
Grand Hotel, a large first-class house; a little farther and
near the post, the theatre, and Temple Protestant, are the Victoria and
the Louvre; in the Place Puget is the Nord, and at No. 15 an
office where carriages can be hired for Mont Faron and other excursions.
From this “Place” start the omnibuses for Hyères, 11 m. E. by the
road; also omnibuses for Ollioules and Beausset. The porpoises and
scallop shells on the fountain in the centre of the “Place” are by
Puget. In the Place d’Armes is the H. Place d’Armes, fronting the
Arsenal and the Promenade, where the band plays on Sundays.
The omnibuses for Cap Brun, Ste. Marguerite, Le Pradet, La Valette,
La Garde, and La Crau, and the diligences for Pierrefeu, Collobrières,
Cuers, Solliès-Pont, Belgentier, Meounes, Neroules, and Brignoles, start
from the Place d’Italie at the east end of Toulon. In
this “Place” are the inns H. Petit, St. Jean, and
H. Croix-Blanche. (For the above places see maps, pp. 123 and 129.) In the Place
Puget are several cheap restaurants. The best restaurants are on the
quay of the port.
Toulon: The Quai du Port.
The Quai du
Port.—The bronze statue on this quay, representing
Navigation, is by Daumas, by whom are also the colossal statues in front
of the theatre. Near it are the berths of the steamers for Saint
Mandrier, 3½ m. S., and for the Iles d’Hyères. More to the right is
the berth of the large steamers for La Seyne. At the west end is the
hulk of the famous _Belle Poule_, covered with a roof of sloping
planks. This was the vessel in which Napoleon’s body was brought from
St. Helena and deposited in the Hôtel des Invalides on the 15th December
1840. The Chamber of Deputies granted £40,000 to defray the expenses of
the expedition, and entrusted the command to the Prince de Joinville,
with whom were associated Bertrand, Gourgaud, the younger Las Casas, and
Marchand the Emperor’s valet, all the latest and most devoted of
Napoleon’s adherents. On the
125
16th October the coffin was opened, when the body was found in an
excellent state of preservation. On that same day the remains were
embarked on board the _Belle Poule_, and on the 18th the ship set
sail. On the 30th November it reached Cherbourg, where the body was
transferred to the steamboat _Normandie_, which conveyed it up the
Seine to Courbevoie, where it was placed on a most magnificent car.
Toulon: Cab Fares. The Arsenals.
_Cab
fares._—The course, 1¼ fr.; the hour, 2 frs.
The strongly-fortified port of Toulon occupies a plain rising
gradually from the sea to the lofty ridge of Mont Faron, which runs east
and west, and sends out lower branches, enclosing the town and harbour
on either side. On the summit, immediately behind the town, are Fort
Croix and large barracks; to the east is La Platrière, 1000 ft., and
immediately behind it Mt.
Coudon, 2305 ft. To the west is the Cap Gros, 1735 ft, and behind it
Mt. Caoume, 3268 ft. On every commanding position is a fort; while from
the water’s edge at the west end of the port rises Fort Malbousquet.
Similarly situated on the eastern end is Fort Lamalgue, the last held by
the English in 1793. The Petit Rade offers a spacious and most secure
roadstead. From it are walled off, at the east end, the Port Marchand
and the Vieille Darse, or town-docks, whence the steamers sail. Then
follow the Government docks of Vauban, Castigneau, and Missiessy, all
communicating with each other by swing bridges, and surrounded by
well-built quays. The most conspicuous features of Toulon are the
arsenals and the
establishments connected with them, which are on a scale of almost
unrivalled magnificence, occupying 717 acres, and employing above 10,000
men. Near the west end of the Port a large gateway with marble columns
forms the entrance into the “Arsenal Maritime,” covering 240 acres, and
containing a general storehouse, 100 forge fires, two covered
building-slips, a ropery 1050 feet long, and an armoury with at the
entrance two caryatides and a colossal eagle by Puget. Adjoining is the
Arsenal de Castigneau, constructed on piles along the bay towards La
Seyne, with the bakery, ironworks, and ship-equipment departments.
Although Toulon, rather a dirty town, is crowded with marines and
sailors, it maintains by the constant influx of the peasantry all the
characteristics of a town of Provence. Theatres of every grade abound,
from the Grand Opera House down to the poor little café chantant, where
gaudily-dressed females electrify the audience with popular ballads. The
most pleasant lounge in winter is on the Quai du Port, as the wharf
fronting the town-dock is called. As long as
126
the sun is above the horizon it shines there, consequently during the
cold season it is crowded with all kinds of people, most of whom,
unfortunately, are poisoning the air with execrable tobacco. On it are
good cafés and restaurants, and booksellers’ shops where plans of the
town and neighbourhood are sold. This now gay sunny promenade was in
November 1793 the scene of one of the most horrid butcheries of human
life recorded in history, when the infuriated Republican soldiers, mad
with vengeance, slaughtered above 6000 of their countrymen, not sparing
even those of their own party, in their blind rage. Sir Sydney Smith,
amidst the flames of burning ships and dockyards, and the shrieks and
imploring cries of the terrified populace, succeeded in rescuing and
embarking some 1500. Napoleon, then a lad of 23, by whose military
genius the discomfiture of the English had been effected, exerted
himself to the utmost, but in vain, to stay the carnage.
Toulon: Town Hall.
Among the houses which border the Quai du Port is the Town Hall, adorned
with two admirable caryatides by Pierre Puget. In front is the statue
representing Navigation, and at No. 64 of the street behind is the
corner house Puget built for himself. It contains four stories of nearly
square windows, those in the lowest and highest rows being the smallest.
The small side has three windows in each row, and the large four, the
windows of the first three rows over the doorway being in couples. On
the angles are shallow grooved foliated pilasters, and under the eaves a
projecting dentil cornice.
The most sheltered street in winter, and the coolest in summer, is
the Rue Lafayette, a broad avenue lined with shops and shaded with
immense lime trees. It commences at the east end of the Port and bends
round to the Place Puget. About half of the street is occupied by a
fruit, flower, and vegetable market. In the second story of the narrow
five-storied house, at No. 89 (the Port end), is one of the cannon-balls
fired by the English during the struggle of November 1793. (See above.)
At the Port end of the street is the “Place,” whence the omnibus starts
for Mourillon; also the church of St. François de Paule. The interior
contains pictures and statues of some merit. The reredos of the altar to
the left represents one of the interviews between J. C. and
Marguerite Alacoque, while that of the altar to the right represents
Mary announcing herself to the girl swineherd at Lourdes to be the
“conceived without sin.”
Toulon: Sainte-Marie-Majeure.
The street ramifying from the west side of the Rue Lafayette, between
houses Nos. 77 and 79, leads to the cathedral of Sainte-Marie-Majeure, commenced in the
11th cent., and finished in the 18th.
127
The exterior is unattractive. The interior is better. The organ-loft
over the entrance is of carved oak. The alabaster reredos of the altar
in the chapel to the right of the high altar is by the sculptor Veyrier.
The tabernacle and the two angels under it are by Puget, who is said to
have executed also the alto-relievo on the side wall of the chapel
representing the apostles looking into the empty tomb of Mary. Over the
arch of the chapel on the left of the high altar is a Madonna in wood by
Canova. Several very good pictures adorn the church.
All the steamers sail from the Quai du Port. The best and largest are
those which cross to La Seyne (p. 123).
The steamers for the Iles d’Hyères and for St. Mandrier sail also from
this wharf. The St. Mandrier steamer makes the trip six times daily,
calling first at Balaguier, where the landing-place is between Fort
Aiguillette to the north and Fort Balaguier to the south, the latter
being easily recognised by its round tower. The restaurant and houses
are situated towards Fort Aiguillette. On the other side of the point of
Fort Balaguier is Le Tamarin, or Tamaris, consisting chiefly of pretty
villas in luxuriant gardens full of palms and orange trees. Behind
Tamaris rises Fort Napoleon, commanding a splendid view. An excellent
carriage-road leads up to the top. It commences near the neck of land of
the peninsula of Cepet. An omnibus runs between Le Tamaris, Balaguier,
and La Seyne.
St. Mandrier.
The steamer, after touching at Balaguier, crosses the roads or Rade du
Lazaret and enters the small bay of St. Mandrier. At the landing-place is a
comfortable inn, charging 8 to 10 frs. per day. Round the point, in a
warm nook among the hills, is the hospital of St. Mandrier, with 1200
beds, one of the most important establishments of this kind in France.
It occupies three sides of a parallelogram, has a handsome chapel, and a
great cistern vaulted with concentric circles. Adjoining is a large and
well-sheltered garden with orange trees. Visitors are readily admitted.
In Toulon, near the Place d’Armes, is the Hôpital de la Marine,
exclusively for the navy. Although well ordered, it is hardly
sufficiently ventilated.
Toulon: Mont Faron.
One of the most interesting walks is to the top of Mont Faron, 1792 feet above
the sea. From the Porte Notre Dame, at the E. end of Toulon, take the
broad road or street leading northwards by the bridge across the
railway. Then passing one of the artillery establishments, leave the
town by the Port of Ste. Anne—the name is on the gateway. From
this the real road commences, excellent all the way, and in its gentle
ascent and continuous windings ever unfolding the most lovely views of
the town and the bay. When not far from
128
the summit three roads meet. The road to the left goes to the barracks
and to the top. The nearly level road to the right goes to Fort Faron,
and the steep road to the left to Fort de la Croix on a rock above Fort
Faron. Both are on the east or the La Valette side of the mountain. The
summit consists of a stony tableland, from which rise knolls of various
elevations. It can be done in a carriage.
La Valette. Mont Coudon. Cap Brun.
_Toulon
Omnibuses._—Among the omnibus-drives from Toulon the best
are to Hyères (p. 133) by La
Valette, and to the village of Dardenne, on a stream in the picturesque valley
between Mont Faron on the right or S. side and the steep Tourris
mountain, with bald calcareous summits, 1426 ft. high. As far as the
omnibus goes the road is good. The road eastwards through the valley
leads to La Valette, and the short road northward to the village of Le
Revest, on the top of an eminence commanding a good view of the ravine
of the Dardenne. The village of La Valette, pop. 1700, is 3¼ m. E. from
Toulon and 7¾ W. from Hyères by the omnibus. The carving on the church
door, representing John writing the book of Revelation in the island of
Patmos, is said to have been done by Puget. From this village the ascent
is made of Mt.
Coudon, 2305 ft., in about 2½ hours. “From Mt. Coudon there are
grand views in all directions. I have sought for them a great deal,
and seen a great many, but have never beheld any scene so lovely as the
graceful yet bold indentured coast of France as exhibited from Coudon.”
—_George Sand._ A carriage-road leads up to the very top, but
unfortunately, when only a few feet from the summit, farther progress is
stopped by a fort, and the best of the view lost. Commence the ascent
from the narrow lane opposite the Hôtel de Ville, and, once on the high
road, never leave it. On the way up many very beautiful land and sea
views disclose themselves.
The next best omnibus-drives are to Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite, eastward on the
coast, and to Le
Pradet, a village N.E. from Ste. Marguerite, on the road to
Carqueyranne. Both omnibuses start from the Place d’Italie. Although
this road skirts the coast, very little of it is seen on account of
hills and garden-walls. Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite are both forts on
cliffs projecting into the sea. To the east of the Fort Ste. Marguerite
is the village, consisting of a few houses, with a small chapel among
villas and cottages scattered over the slope of an eminence rising from
a tiny cove. Le Pradet is a considerable village a little to the S. of
La Garde. La Garde, on its hill crowned with the ruins of a castle,
forms a marked feature in the landscape. At Cap Brun is the villa of Sir
Charles Dilke.
129
Mourillon.
The omnibus to the sea-bathing suburb of Mourillon, 3½ m. E., behind Fort La Malgue
or Malague, starts from the Port end of the Rue or Cours Lafayette.
environs of
TOULON & HYÈRES
opp. 129
see caption
_Diligence
Drives._—Toulon to Meounes, 19¼ m. N. by
diligence from the Place d’Italie. Time, 3 hrs.; fare, 2½ frs. (see
map, p. 129).
Belgentier. Meounes.
The diligence, after passing through La Valette, Farlède 4¾ m., and
Solliès-Ville, arrives at Solliès-Pont, 272 ft. above the sea and
10½ m. from Toulon, situated on the railway and on the Gapeau. The
diligence halts near the inn H. du Commerce, where passengers from
Hyères can await its arrival. The coach to Brignoles passes by the same
way, but at an earlier hour. From Solliès-Pont commences the beautiful
part of the route, up the fertile valley of the Gapeau between lofty and
precipitous calcareous mountains. The slopes are covered with large
olive trees, and the plain with fields and vineyards and numerous cherry
trees. Nearly 2 m. farther up the valley, but on the other side of
the Gapeau, is Solliès-Toucas (328 ft.), situated in a sheltered nook.
5 m. higher up, and 12½ m. from Toulon, is Belgentier (pronounced
Belgensier), on both sides of the Gapeau. The horses are changed here.
The inn (auberge), which is indifferent, is round the corner to the
right. From Belgentier the olives cease to be continuous. The diligence,
after passing the flour-mill Pachoquin, 558 ft., arrives at the best
headquarters in the valley, Meounes, 919 ft., on the stream Naille, an affluent
of the Gapeau, 3½ m. N. from Belgentier, 8¾ m. N. from
Solliès-Pont, 6 m. E. from Signes, 4¾ m. S. from
Roquebrussane, 12 m. S.E. from Le Camp, 5 m. S. from
Garéoules, and 7½ m. S. from Forcalqueiret railway station, which
is 7 m. E. by rail from Brignoles (see map,
p. 123).
The inn of Meounes is behind the church. On a small peak overlooking the
village is an image of Mary. Round three sides of the pedestal are the
words “Mary conceived without sin, the tower of David, the refuge of
sinners, pray for us.” On the fourth side “June 1870.” Eastward is a
great circular mass of mountains, which rises abruptly on the eastern
and southern rim, and sinks towards the western and northern. Going
round from south to east the culminating points reach the elevations of
1794 ft., 1860 ft., 2073 ft, 2248 ft., 1934 ft., 2326 ft., and 2060 ft.
Tablelands, more or less fertile, and peaks of various elevations,
occupy the centre. The rocks are calcareous, and most of the paths which
traverse this region are excessively stony.
Montrieux.
Scarcely 3 m. from Meounes by a very pretty road is the Carthusian
Monastery of Montrieux
(pronounced Monrieux), on an eminence 945 ft. above the sea. To go to it
descend the high road for about 1½ m. to a bridge and first road
right, which take. A little way up, the road divides into two; take
the left one, which crosses the Gapeau. The building, which is prettily
situated, is small, and contains only about from 30 to 35 inmates. It
was founded in 1117, and had very large possessions, which, with the
house, were taken from the monks at the fatal revolution of 1793. In
1845 the building was repurchased,
130
along with 74 acres of land, and peopled with a detachment of friars
from the head monastery of the order, the Chartreuse of Grenoble. The
Carthusians and Trappists resemble each other in dress and in their
rules, the chief difference being that the Trappists sleep in the same
room, and dine together in the same room, while the Carthusians have
each a separate suite of small rooms or cells, where the inmate sleeps
and feeds by himself. Both affirm: “Nous ne permettons jamais aux femmes
d’entrer dans notre enceinte; car nous savons que, ni le sage, ni le
prophète, ni le juge, ni l’hôte de Dieu, ni ses enfans, ni même le
premier modèle sorti de ses mains, n’ont pu échapper aux caresses ou aux
tromperies des femmes.” A nearer but very stony path, commencing
opposite the church door of Meounes, leads also to the convent.
Through Meounes pass the Toulon courrier to Brignoles by Roquebrussane,
the Toulon coach to Brignoles by Garéoules, and the Toulon coach to
Garéoules. The drive between Meounes and Brignoles is monotonous, and
the inns in the villages poor. Fare from Meounes to Brignoles
3 frs., distance 15 miles. (For Brignoles, see p. 142.)
La Crau. Cuers. Pierrefeu. Collobrières.
Toulon to Collobrières.—From
the Place d’Italie a coach starts daily to Collobrières, 25 m. N.E.
by E., passing through La Valette 3¼ m., La Garde with its castle
5 m., and La Crau
7½ m. _Inn:_ H. de France. Beyond the inn are the post
and telegraph offices, and a few yards farther, in the Rue de Gapeau,
the halting and meeting place of this diligence with the coach that runs
between Hyères and La Crau.
From La Crau the diligence proceeds to Pierrefeu, 18 m. from
Toulon, where the horses are changed near the first terrace,
a little higher than the inn. From Pierrefeu the diligence proceeds
to Collobrières, up the thinly-peopled valley of the river. Fare, 2½
frs.; time, 4½ hrs. Excursionists from Hyères should await the diligence
at La Crau, where it arrives about 4 p.m.; or take the rail to Cuers station, and then the courrier, which leaves
Toulon every forenoon for Collobrières, passing through Pierrefeu (p. 142).
From Toulon to Pierrefeu the road traverses a fertile plain more or less
undulating, covered with olive trees, vineyards, and wheat fields. The
Gapeau, the river that supplies Hyères with water, is crossed a few
yards beyond La Crau, and shortly afterwards the road to Pierrefeu takes
a northerly direction up the valley of the Real-Martin, the principal
affluent of the Gapeau. Pierrefeu, pop. 4000, is a dirty village on a
hill, 482 ft. above the sea, with narrow, crooked, steep streets. From
the terrace there is a pleasing view of the plain below. From Pierrefeu
the coach ascends the valley of the Réal-Collobrier to Collobrières, pop. 3600,
on an eminence rising from the stream. _Inn:_ H. de Notre
Dame, near the diligence office, good and clean. The office of the
courrier is in the principal street, near the Post and the Hôtel de
Ville with the promenade. From the top of the hill, where stands the old
church, now abandoned, is an excellent view of the valley. The lower
part is covered with fields and vineyards interspersed with fruit trees.
On the side of the mountains facing the north are forests of
131
chestnut trees, some very old and of most fantastic forms, while on the
opposite side are forests of sombre cork oaks. Cork-cutting,
wine-making, and the exportation of chestnuts form the principal
industries. The wine, when four years old, makes an agreeable vin
ordinaire. In the tenth year it is at its best, when it becomes
straw-coloured.
A winding coach-road across the Maure mountains extends northwards to
Gonfaron, a station on the railway to Cannes. Between this road and
Pignans station is the culminating point of the Maures, on which is the
chapel of N. D. des Anges, 2556 ft. above the sea.
Isles d’Or.
The Islands of Hyères, or the Iles d’Or.
Steamer every other day from Toulon to Porquerolles; time 2 hrs., fare
2 frs.; thence to the Ile Port-Cros, time 1 hour. Fare there and
back to Porquerolles, 2 frs. Steamer also every other day from Les
Salins of Hyères to Porquerolles by the Iles du Levant and
Port-Cros.
The finest of the views of Toulon and neighbourhood is from the deck of
the steamer while sailing through the roads. To the north rises the
massive and precipitous Mont Faron with its forts and barracks, and to
the east is La Malgue with its forts and batteries. To the west is La
Seyne, by the north side of the hill on which is Fort Napoleon, and
southwards is the peninsula of Cepet with the large Military Hospital of
St. Mandrier. The whole coast from Toulon to Hyères is afterwards seen
distinctly from the steamer. Just before arriving at Porquerolles the
steamer sails closely along the southern shore of the peninsula of
Giens (see p. 140, and map,
p. 123).
Porquerolles.
Porquerolles,
pop. 500, is 5 miles long, and of an average breadth of 2 miles.
The culminating point is 479 ft. above the sea. The northern coast is
low, the land sloping upwards to the south, where it terminates in
vertical cliffs of schistose and quartzose rocks. The vegetation is
nowhere luxuriant. Pines, arbutus, and heaths cover the mountains, while
the more fertile plains and valleys have vineyards and fields. The
climate is very dry, and the water-supply is obtained from wells.
Mosquitoes can hardly be said to exist. Many rare plants are found in
the woods, such as the Delphinium requienii, Galium minutulum,
Pelargonium capitatum, Latyrus tingitanus, Alkanna lutea, Genista
linifolia, Cistus Porquerollensis, and the Cistus olbiensis.
The Port of Porquerolles is situated in nearly the centre of the N. side
of the island, exactly opposite Hyères, and 9 m. from Les Salins.
The pier has not sufficient water to allow the steamer to moor
alongside. In the “Place,” quite close to the pier, are the church, the
museum of the island collected by the most worthy curate, and the two
inns, of which the H. du Progrès is the larger of the two. Above
the town, at an elevation of 215 ft., is the castle, with some small
buildings formerly used as an hospital, now a prison.
There are three main roads in the island—the road by the N. coast
westward is called the Chemin du Langoustier, the road by the N.
coast eastward the Chemin des Mèdes, and the road up the centre
of the island, from N. to S., the Chemin au Phare. This last road
132
commences at the N.W. corner of the “Place” and terminates at the
lighthouse on Cap d’Armes, the most southern point of the island, 210
ft. above the sea. The lighthouse, first-class, is ascended by 70 steps,
is 46 ft. above the ground, and has a white light.
The first road right from the N.W. corner of the “Place” is the Chemin
du Langoustier, which, on its way westward, traverses a comparatively
open country. The building in ruins, seen on the top of the ridge to the
left, 370 ft. high, is an old watch-tower, considered the most ancient
structure on the island. Near the end of the road is a decayed soda
manufactory. At the terminus on the peninsula is a Vigie,
a watch-tower and signal-station combined, 108 ft. above the
sea.
The road along the N.E. coast, the Chemin des Mèdes, traverses the most
fertile part of the island. About half-way, near Point Lequin, it passes
round the N. end of a ridge, extending N. and S., on whose summit, 479
ft. above the sea, is a semaphore or signal-station, commanding a
perfect view of the whole island, while the view of the other islands,
of the peninsula of Giens, of Hyères, and of the coast to beyond Cannes,
is admirable. The way up is by the first branch road right at the
commencement of the wood. The road at the commencement looks as if it
led up the plain. The Chemin des Mèdes terminates at a farmhouse called
Notre Dame, formerly a monastery, whence the continuation is by a path
leading to a fort on Cap des Mèdes, to the N. of a hill 449 ft.
high.
Port-Cros. Port Man. Levant.
Port-Cros.—11½
m. E. from Porquerolles port is the island of Port-Cros, 12½ m. S.
from Les Salins, on the western side of the island, at the head of a
small landlocked bay. An inn is near the pier. The main road extends
from the landing-place up the valley by the church and the proprietor’s
house to Port Man at the
eastern end of the island. Port-Cros consists of a picturesque wooded
ridge, whose culminating point is to the south, 669 ft. above the sea;
it is 2½ m. from S.W. to N.E., and 1½ m. from N. to S., and
contains 1482 acres. The rocks in Porquerolles and Port-Cros are
similar—mica, schist, and quartz. Round the coast are numerous
little coves with tiny smooth beaches. Excellent sea fishing may be had
at all times.
About a mile east from Port Man is the western extremity of the more
sterile island of the Levant, 5 m. from E. to W., and 1½ from N. to
S. The culminating point is in the centre of the island, the
Pierres Blanches, on which there is a signal-tower, 423 ft. above the
sea. Mica, amianthus, actinolite, and tourmaline abound.
Toulon to Hyères.
Toulon to Hyères.—Passengers at Toulon for Hyères,
11 m. E., can go either by the omnibus, which starts three times
daily from the Place Puget, fare 1 fr., time nearly 2 hours, or by
train. If by rail they should examine the Indicateur, and select a
direct train, otherwise they may have to wait some time at La Pauline,
where the branch line commences by La Crau to Hyères, 13 miles by rail
from Toulon.
133
Hyères. Hotels.
HYÈRES,
pop. 13,000, the most southerly of the stations on the Riviera, the
nearest to England, and only 18¼ hours from Paris. It is not so gay as
Cannes, Nice, Monte Carlo, and San Remo, nor perhaps even Menton; but
none of these places have such beautiful boulevards, nor such a variety
of charming country walks and drives either by private or stage coaches.
The hotel omnibuses await passengers at the station. The station is
¾ m. S. from Hyères, and ¾ m. N. from the Hermitage.
_Hotels._—At the west of the town are the
Hôtel des Palmiers, below the Place des Palmiers; the *Iles d’Or, with
garden off the main road; the H. Continental, on an eminence above
the Iles d’Or. These three are first-class houses, and charge per day
from 15 to 20 frs., including bedroom, service, wine, candles, and three
meals with coffee or tea in the morning. Next the Iles d’Or is the
Hesperides, 8 to 12 frs. Off the main street are the Ambassadeurs and
the Europe, both from 10 to 12 frs., frequented chiefly by those who
come only for a few days. At the east end of Boulevard des Palmiers the
H. du Parc, 12 to 15 frs. On opposite side, and well situated for
the sun, is the second-class house, the H. Iles d’Hyères, 7 to 10
frs. Near it, but not well situated, is the Méditerranée, third-class.
The principal hotel on the east side of Hyères is the H. Orient, 10
to 13 frs., a comfortable and old-established house, opposite the
public gardens. Farther east, and off the high road to St. Tropez, is
the Beau-Séjour, from 12 to 15 frs. Down by one of the roads to the sea
is the H. des Étrangers, 10 to 13 frs., in a sunny situation. About
1½ m. S. from Hyères, near the Hermitage chapel, but in a sheltered
nook overlooking one of the warmest and most favoured valleys of the
Montagnes des Oiseaux, is the *Hôtel and Pension de l’Hermitage, 9 to 12
frs., retired and comfortable, and frequented chiefly by English. As it
is near the sea, in a forest of pines and cork oaks, it combines the
advantages of Arcachon with those of Hyères. All the above prices
include tea or coffee in the morning, and meat breakfast and dinner,
with wine to both. Abundance of furnished apartments and villas to let.
In the Place des Palmiers are a French and an English bank. Both
exchange money. In the same “Place” is the Temple Protestant, and a
little beyond the English Pharmacy. The Episcopal chapel is in the
Boulevard Victoria. The town hospital is at the west end of the
town.
There are several clubs; the best are the Siècle and the Progrès,
which take in English newspapers. Here, as well as in the other stations
134
on the Riviera, all the first-class clubs or “cercles” have large
gambling-rooms, as productive of evil as Monte Carlo.
_Cab
fares._—Per hour, 2 frs. A coach per month with driver and
2 horses, 500 frs. With 1 horse, 300 frs.
Hyères: Drives.
_Drives._—A 3 to 4 hours’ drive in a
coach with 1 horse costs 6 to 8 frs., with 2 horses 10 to 12 frs.,
but, as there is no recognised tariff, it is necessary in every case to
settle the price beforehand. The drive to Carqueyranne by the coast and
back by the road between the Paradis and Oiseaux mountains, with 1
horse, 8 frs. The same price to La Crau, round by the west side of
Mt. Fenouillet, and back by the valley of the Gapeau. The great drive,
forming a good day’s excursion, is to the Chartreuse of Montrieux,
18 m. N., by La Crau, Solliès-Pont (a railway station), and
Belgentier (pronounced Belgensier). (For description, see p. 129.) Coach with 2 horses, 25
frs. there and back. The other great drive (costing the same) is to the
Fort of Brégançon, 16 miles east by the coast-road, passing by Les Vieux
Salins, at the eastern extremity of which a road strikes off due north
towards the St. Tropez road, passing Bastidon (7 m. from Hyères)
amidst large olive trees. After Les Salins the road enters the part of
the plain called La Plage Largentière, in which is situated the Château
de Bormettes, built by Horace Vernet (7½ m. E. from Hyères).
A little farther east, on the Plage de Pellegrin, are the châteaux
of Léoubes (11 m.) and Brégançon; and, on the western point of Cap
Bénat, Fort Brégançon, about 4 miles west of Bormes. (For Bormes, see p. 142.) Another pleasant drive is to
Cuers, 14 m. N.W. by the Gapeau and Pierrefeu. The first road that
ramifies to the right, from the Gapeau valley road, leads up into the
Vallée de Borel, in the heart of the Maure mountains. This road passes
by the large farmhouse of Ste. Eulalie, in a plain full of large olive
trees, some 6 feet in diameter. There are also some large pines.
Besides these excursions there are a great many little drives which may
be taken in the wooded sheltered valleys running up between the ridges
of the Maure mountains, but for them a light vehicle should be selected,
as some parts of the roads are not good.
Hyères: Coaches.
_Coaches._—From the Place de la Rade
start daily coaches for Carqueyranne 6¼ m. W., for Les Vieux Salins
4 m. E., for La Crau 4½ m. N. (see
p. 130), and for St. Tropez 32½ m. E., whence a steamer sails
to St. Raphael. Near the “Place,” opposite the Hotel and Restaurant du
Var, start several times daily large omnibuses for Toulon by La Valette
(see maps, pp. 123 and 129).
135
Hyères proper is a little dirty town of narrow streets,
running up the south-east side of the castle hill; like, however, all
the other winter stations, the new quarter, with its handsome streets
and villas, has far outgrown the original limits. A plain,
2 m. wide, is between the town and the sea. The beautifully-wooded
Maure mountains surround it on the land side, mitigating the keenness of
the north, north-east, and east winds, but affording indifferent
protection from the mistral or north-west wind. The Toulon road,
extending east and west, forms the principal thoroughfare. On it, and in
its proximity, are the best shops and the best hotels. From it rise the
steep streets of the old town, of which two of the gateways still exist.
At the east end, fronting the Place de la Rade, is the Porte des Salins,
and at the west end the Porte Fenouillet. Exactly half-way between these
two stood the principal gateway, the Porte Portalet, from which the
street R. Portalet leads directly up to the *Place Massillon,
containing the fish-market, a bust of Massillon, and the Maison des
Templiers, 12th cent., now the Hôtel de Ville.
Massillon.
Standing with the face towards the Hôtel de Ville, we have to the left a
dirty narrow street called the Rue Rubaton, in which is the house, No.
7, where Massillon, the greatest of the pulpit orators of France, was
born on the 24th of June 1663. In the pulpit he appeared sedate, without
gesture and parade. On one occasion, when he preached to the Court at
Versailles, his sermon produced such a powerful effect on Louis XIV.
that he exclaimed in the presence of the Court— “Father,
I have heard several good orators and have been satisfied with
them, but whenever I hear you I am dissatisfied with myself.” The
language of Massillon, though noble, was simple, and always natural and
just, without labour and affectation. When he preached for the first
time in the church of St. Eustache in Paris his famous sermon on Matthew
vii. 14, and had arrived at the peroration, the entire congregation rose
from their seats, transported and dismayed. This prosopopœia, which
still astonishes in the perusal, has been chosen by Voltaire in the
article “Eloquence” in the _Encyclopédie_ as an example presenting
“_la figure la plus hardie, et l’un des plus beaux traits d’éloquence
qu’on puisse lire chez les anciens et les modernes_.” His father, who
spelt his name Masseilhon, was a notary. The business was continued from
father to son in the same house from 1647 to 1834.
Hyères: St. Paul. St. Louis.
Above the “Place” is the church of St. Paul, 12th cent., on a terrace
commanding a view towards the sea. The figures by the side of the altar
represent the apostles Peter and Paul. In the clumsy modern addition to
the church is an ancient baptismal font.
136
At the low part of the town, in the Place Royale or de la République,
is the church of St. Louis, built in the 12th cent. in the
Byzantine style and restored in 1840. The floor is 11 steps below the
entrance. The quadripartite vault is supported on lofty wide-spanned
arches. The pulpit, of walnut, is beautifully carved. The 19 stalls
display elegance and originality of design in the form and arrangement
of the canopies. The confessionals are also tastefully carved, and are
set into the wall. Behind the altar, to the right, is a large and
remarkable picture representing the landing of St. Louis with his queen
and their 3 children on the beach of Hyères (the Plage du Ceinturon) on
the 12th of July 1254, when the royal family were the guests of Bertrand
de Foz in the castle. The other picture, which is modern, represents St.
Louis about to enter Notre Dame of Paris. The statue over the fountain
in this square, the Place de la République, represents Charles of Anjou
and Provence, 9th son of Louis VIII. of France, and brother of Louis IX.
In 1245 Charles married the great heiress the Countess Beatrice, which
event closed the independent political life of Provence by uniting it to
the house of Anjou. In 1257, on the principle that might is right, he
dispossessed Count Foz of the castle and territory of Hyères. At the
western end of the town is the Place des Palmiers, with palms planted in
1836. Those which adorn the Boulevard des Palmiers were planted in 1864,
and came from Spain. Napoleon I. lodged in the house No. 7 of the
Place des Palmiers after the siege of Toulon. Around Hyères are numerous
nursery-gardens, and on the plain, down by the Avenue de la Gare, is the
“Jardin d’Acclimatation,” where animals, birds, and plants are reared
for the Jardin d’Acclimatation of Paris, of which it is a branch. These
gardens form a most enjoyable and amusing retreat, are well sheltered,
and plants, flowers, and milk are sold in them. Open to the public.
Hyères: Costebelle.
From the railway station to the sea extends a tract called the
Costebelle, about 2½ m. from N.E. to
S.W., on the wooded slopes of the Montagnes des Oiseaux.
The winter here is exceptionally mild, and some of the villas stand in
little hollows clothed with pine and olive trees. Near the southern end
of Costebelle, on Hermitage Hill, 320 ft. above the sea, is the chapel
of Notre Dame d’Hyères, visited by pilgrims. From this hill are lovely
views, not obstructed by trees. In the valley on the western side are
old olive trees.
Hyères: Château.
THE CHÂTEAU OF HYÈRES.
On the top of the hill on which the old town is built is the
Château of Hyères, which should be visited as early as possible,
for the sake
137
of acquiring a topographical knowledge of the environs. Ascend by the
Hôtel de Ville and the steep narrow streets beyond, keeping to the
right, as the entrance into the castle-grounds is at the S.E. end of the
wall. The castle, 657 ft. above the sea, is believed to have been
founded in the 7th cent., although not mentioned till the 10th, when it
is called _Castrum aræarum_ or _aræis_, “air-castle.”
Considerable portions of the walls, and some of the towers and dungeons,
still remain, the most perfect part being on the western side, above the
Hôtel des Iles d’Or. The view from the ramparts is beautiful.
Immediately beneath are the town and its dependencies, like a map in
bold relief. Southwards, towards the sea, is the great plain, studded
with farmhouses, cypresses, olive plantations, and vegetable gardens.
Beyond is the roadstead, with generally one or more vessels of war
moored off the village of Les Vieux Salins. Out at sea, to the east, are
the islands of Levant, Port-Cros, and Bagaud, the smallest of the three.
Farther west, towards the peninsula of Giens, is Porquerolles (p. 131), the largest of the
islands. Giens is distinctly seen, with its two necks of land 3 m.
long. On the land side from Giens the view is bounded to the west by the
little hermitage hill bearing the chapel of N. D. d’Hyères, and the
Oiseaux mountains, on whose sunny flanks is Costebelle. North from
Oiseaux peak is Mt. Paradis, 982 ft., which looks as if the top had been
shaved off. Northwards from Mt. Paradis, on the other side of the plain,
are Mt. Coudon, 2305 ft. (see
p. 125), and the eastern extremity of Mt. Faron, behind Toulon.
Towards the east the view is bounded by the Maure mountains and the
Pointe de la Galère, with Fort Brégançon. From this fort, northwards by
the beach, are the châteaux of Brégançon and Léoubes. The highest peak
of the Maures is 2556 ft. above the sea, crowned by the chapel of Notre
Dame des Anges. (Refer to maps, pp. 123 and
129.)
Mont Fenouillet.
Behind Hyères Castle is the highest of the ridges in the Maurette
group, the culminating point being Mt. Fenouillet, 981 ft., at the
western extremity. The path to it, which skirts the whole ridge,
commences at the back of the castle, just under the peak of La Potence,
633 ft., on which is a fragment of a tower. A gibbet for the
execution of malefactors stood there, hence the name. The small hill
above the east end of Hyères, and standing between the old and new
cemeteries, is a favourite walk, and commands a good view. Before
descending from the castle observe the road to Mt. Fenouillet.
Excursion to Mont
Fenouillet.—Behind the castle ramify three paths. The path
to the right leads eastward along a lower ridge of
138
the Maurettes by the Potence to Mt. Decugis, 585 ft. The path to the
left, called the “Chemin St. Bernard,” leads down to the west end of
Hyères, near the octroi office and the hospital. The centre path leads
to Mt. Fenouillet through plantations of olives, cork oaks, and firs,
and some fine brushwood, of which the most beautiful in winter is the
_Arbutus unedo_, or strawberry tree. When less than half-way a road
at Mt. Roustan, 608 ft., diverges N.E. by a ridge projecting into the
valley of the Gapeau. Just under the peak of Fenouillet is a small
chapel visited by pilgrims. From the summit, at the foot of the cross
(3 Mai 1877), there is a superb and extensive view. Numerous paths
lead from it down to the road between Hyères and Toulon.
Excursion to the
Montagnes des Oiseaux.—The best way is to take the path
commencing in the first valley N. of the Costebelle road, ascending by
the N. shoulder. The whole way the path is good, only in some places it
is nearly concealed by brushwood, especially by the _Quercus
coccifera_. The trees on the summit, 982 ft., obstruct the view, but
on the way up charming landscapes now and then unfold themselves of
Hyères on one side and of Carqueyranne on the other.
The Trou des Fées.
The Trou des
Fées.—On the top of the hill (345 ft), opposite the E.
side of the Oiseaux peak, is a cave called the Trou des Fées. The
entrance is by a vertical cavity, resembling a well. The interior,
covered with stalactites, is about 96 ft. long by 40 wide. To explore it
lights are necessary. The hole is not very easy to find, though a path
leads directly to it. It is situated under some fir trees. The road down
by the eastern valley of the Montagnes des Oiseaux to the Costebelle
road passes near one of the principal springs which supply the town. The
other source is in the plain, on the road “du Père-Eternel,” nearly
2 m. S.E. from the town. It is pumped up by an engine of 26
horse-power. This water filters to this place from the Gapeau, 1 m.
E., through the gravelly soil of the plain.
To mention all the drives and walks would be both difficult and
confusing. As all the roads and paths are free, the tourist may ramble
in whatever direction he pleases, either through the orchards or up the
lonely but beautifully-wooded valleys and mountains. The only sound
heard is the occasional report of a gun, fired by the “chasseurs” at
such game as blackbirds, thrushes, jays, bullfinches, and larks. In the
swamps about Giens are occasionally snipes and wild ducks. The Maure
mountains and their interminable valleys offer ample scope for the
walking powers of the most indefatigable pedestrian.
Cork-cutting.
The principal agricultural products of Hyères, as indeed of all the
Riviera, are olives, wine, and cork. The olive-berry harvest commences
139
in December. The small berries make the best oil. The trunk has a
curious propensity to separate and form new limbs, which by degrees
become covered with bark. If the sap be still in a semi-dormant state,
and the weather dry, the trunk and branches can bear a cold of 12°
Fahr., while the orange and lemon are killed by a cold of 22°. The cold
of 1820 killed the orange trees about Hyères, and nearly all the trunks
and branches of the olive trees, but not the roots; from each of which
sprang, in the course of time, two or three saplings, now trees growing
round one common centre. Next to the Aleppo, maritime and umbrella
pines, the most numerous of the forest trees is the cork oak, or _Quercus suber_, generally
accompanied with the diminutive member of the oak tribe, the _Quercus
coccifera_. The bark forms an important article of commerce. When the
stem of the young cork oak has become 4 inches in diameter, the bark is
removed for the first time, but it is of no use. Ten or even fifteen
years afterwards, when the bark is about an inch thick, the trunk is
stripped again, by making two circular incisions 3 to 4 feet apart,
and two vertical on opposite sides. This operation is repeated every
tenth year in the month of June, when the sap is in full vigour.
A cork tree does not produce fine-grained cork till it is fifty
years old. Cork-cutting, which formed an important industry in the
mountain villages, is gradually leaving them and settling in the towns
on the railways, on account of the greater facility of transport.
Processional Caterpillar.
Pipes.
The curious caterpillar of the Moth, _Bombyx processionaria_, feeds
on the leaves of the Aleppo and maritime pine trees. Their nests, made
of a cobweb material, and shaped like a soda-water bottle, are firmly
attached to the branches. On cutting them open the caterpillars are
found coiled up in a ball, and do not endeavour to escape. They feed
during the night. When they leave the nest they go in procession,
following each other with great precision. On the summits of the Maures,
and on all the mountains bordering the Riviera, grows the heath _Erica
arborea_, from whose roots pipes are made. The digging up and the preparing of
these roots for the Paris manufacturers form now an important industry
in the mountain villages. In England they are called briar-root pipes,
briar being a corruption of the French word _bruyère_, signifying
heath.
The “specialité” of Hyères is the rearing of early vegetables, fruits,
and flowers, for the northern markets, especially roses, strawberries,
peaches, apricots, artichokes, and peas. The broad flat alluvial plain
between the town and the sea is admirably suited for this purpose. The
gardens are easily irrigated, and besides, within a few feet of the
surface, there is always abundance of water.
Butterflies.
“About Hyères are many rare butterflies. Among the best is the
Nymphalis-Jasius, the only representative in Europe of the genus
Charaxes. The first brood appears early in June, the second at the
beginning of September. It is found all over the Riviera, but most
abundantly at Hyères. The Vanessa Antiopa appears in July and September,
many of the latter generation living through the winter. Thais
Medesicaste, T. Hypsipyle, Anthocaris Eupheno (the Aurore de
Provence), Polyommatus
140
Ballus, and Rhodocera Cleopatra may be taken in April. A little
later there is an abundance of the Podalirius (scarce Swallow Tail), the
Machaon, the Thecla Betulæ, the Argynnis Pandora, the A. Niobe, the
A. Dia, the A. Aglaia, the A. Valenzina, the Arge Psyche,
the Satyrus Circe, the S. Briseis, the S. Hermione, the
S. Fidia, the S. Phædra, the S. Cordula, the
S. Actoæ, the S. Semele, and the S. Bathseba, all common
more or less throughout the summer.” —_W. A. Powell of the
English Pharmacy of Hyères._
Climate of Hyères.
Climate.—Hyères is especially fitted
for old people and young children, and all those whose weakened
constitutions require to be strengthened by a winter abroad. Indeed, all
of limited means coming to the Riviera should try this place first, as
it is the nearest, the cheapest, and the most rural. For such as require
gaiety, Hyères is not suited. “The chief attractions of Hyères are its
climate and the beauty of its environs, which render it an agreeable
place, of winter abode, even for persons in health, who do not require
the animated movement and recreative resources presented by large towns,
and who are in tolerable walking condition; the walks and rides, both on
the plain and through the cork-tree woods, by which the hills are for
the most part covered, presenting considerable variety, while from the
more elevated positions charming prospects may be enjoyed.”
—_Dr. Edwin Lee._ The mean winter temperature is 47°.4 F.,
and the average annual rainfall is 26 inches. But on the Riviera, as in
England, every winter varies in the rainfall and in the degree of cold;
and therefore the chances are that the traveller’s experience will not
agree with the carefully-compiled stereotyped meteorological tables. The
climate of Hyères is less stimulating and exciting than at Cannes and
Nice; and, “generally, it may be said to be fitted for children or young
persons of a lymphatic temperament, or of a scrofulous diathesis, either
predisposed to consumption, or suffering from the first stage of that
disease.”
THE BRANCH-LINE BETWEEN HYÈRES AND LES SALINS.
The railway from La Pauline and Hyères to Les Salins extends 11 m.
south-east. The beautiful mountain standing in full majesty before La
Pauline station is Mont Coudon (see
p. 128, and map p. 129).
Giens. Saltworks. Le Château.
8¾ m. S. from La Pauline, and 2½ m. S. from Hyères, is the station for
La Plage, consisting of some
pretty villas built between the beach and a wood of umbrella pines. From
the pier the _Zephyr_ sails every afternoon (excepting Sunday) to
Porquerolles (p. 131). The beach
adjoining the E. side is Le Ceinturon, where St. Louis landed in 1254.
At La Plage station commences the larger of the two necks of land which
connect the peninsula of Giens, 3¼ m. S., with the mainland. The
large neck is traversed by a line of rails extending nearly to the Tour
Fondue, whence a boat sails to Porquerolles, the town opposite
(p. 131). The road along the neck, which at some parts is very hot
and sandy, skirts large square basin-like marshes, where salt is
made by the evaporation of the sea-water by the heat of the sun. At the
south
141
end of the marshes is the little village of the saltmakers. The salt is
heaped up in pyramid-shaped piles, covered on the top with tiles, and on
the sides with boards, which gives them the appearance of houses. Very
fine views both of Giens and Hyères are obtained on the way to the
saltworks. The easiest way to approach the narrow neck is by the
Carqueyranne coach. It leads directly to the village of Le Château, with a neat church
and the ruins of a castle. Many rare plants and immense quantities of
uni- and bivalve shells are found at Giens, especially on the smaller of
the two necks.
From Le Château a road leads westward to the small fishing hamlet of La
Madrague, passing on the left a huge block of quartz with layers of
mica. From a little beyond La Madrague take the road leading up to a
house with a pepper-box turret, whence the continuation leads up to the
semaphore or signal-station, on the highest point of the isthmus, 407
ft. above the sea. The hills are well wooded, and the tiny valleys
covered with orchards, vineyards, and fields. Many pleasant rambles can
be had on the isthmus.
After La Plage station the train, having passed the sea-bathing station
of Capé (Gapeau) and crossed the river Gapeau, arrives at
Les Salins. Pomponiana.
Les Salins, 18 m.
from Toulon and 5 from Hyères by rail. The omnibus from Hyères to
Salins stops at the small “Place” opposite the pier. Fare, ½ fr. It
traverses a road bordered by mulberry trees, between vineyards and olive
groves. Les Salins is a poor hamlet with a little harbour frequented by
feluccas and the boats of the training ships anchored in the bay. Behind
the hamlet are immense shallow reservoirs for the evaporation of
sea-water principally in July and August. These reservoirs or Salins
occupy above 1000 acres, and produce annually 20,000 tons of the value
of £10,000. It is very coarse grained, but is much esteemed by the
fish-curers. 60 workmen are employed permanently, but during the hot or
busy season 300 (see map, p. 129).
Coach to Carqueyranne, 6¼ m. W., by Costebelle and the coast.
After having rounded the base of Hermitage Hill the coach arrives at the
commencement of the small neck of land where passengers for the
peninsula of Giens alight. Scarcely 200 yards beyond this are the almost
buried ruins of the Roman naval station of Pomponiana, some fine olive trees, and several
villas. A road from this leads to the Hermitage, passing an
olive-oil mill. West from Pomponiana by the high road is Carqueyranne,
a small straggling village, from which the little port is about
½ m. distant by nearly a straight road southwards. The Toulon
omnibus from the Place d’Italie halts at the port, but passes through
the village on its way to Toulon. The peak to the west of Carqueyranne
is Mt. Negre, 985 ft., and to the east are the peaks Oiseaux, 982 ft.,
and Paradis, 980 ft. Mt. Paradis may be conveniently ascended from
Carqueyranne, commencing from the valley between the two chains. In
Carqueyranne are produced the earliest strawberries, peas, potatoes, and
artichokes for the Paris market. It is 3½° warmer than Hyères.
142
Bormes.
Coach to Bormes, 14½ m. E.
from Hyères. The coach, after passing the ramification southwards to Les
Salins, halts a few minutes at La Londe, 7¾ m. E., a little
village with an inn, situated on both sides of the St. Tropez road.
Shortly afterwards the Bormes and Lavandou road separates from the St.
Tropez road, and extends S. through a wood of fir and cork trees. Bormes
is picturesquely situated among a group of hills to the east of that
long ridge which terminates with Cape Benat and the Fort Brégançon. In
the Place de la République or St. François is the inn, commanding a good
view from the back windows. At the east end of the inn is the old
churchyard, and a little beyond the new cemetery on the road to
Collobrières, 14 m. N. On the other side of the “Place” is the
parish church, from which a path leads up to the ruins of the castle,
12th cent., built by the Seigneurs of Bormes. Latterly it was occupied
by monks. From the castle a path, passing six small chapels, ascends to
the church of Notre Dame, commanding, especially from the portico,
a pretty view of the plains, sea, and mountains, as far as Toulon.
Bormes suffers from want of water. Less than an hour’s easy walking from
Bormes is Lavandou, a prosperous fishing village on the coast road
from Brégançon to St. Tropez. Savoury “langousts” or rock-lobsters are
caught in the bay (see map, p. 123).
MARSEILLES
MENTON
49
106
LA PAULINE, a few
houses with a new church, near the foot of Mont Coudon. Junction with
line to Hyères, 6½ m. E. Passengers who have missed the train
for Hyères should await the omnibus at the little café below. From La
Pauline the train arrives at Solliès-Pont, pop. 3000; _Inns:_
Victoria; Commerce; on the Gapeau. Four hundred feet higher, on a steep
hill, is the partially-walled and half-deserted Solliès-Ville, almost of
the same colour as the cliffs it stands on. Then Cuers, on the side of
the hill. _Inn:_ Poste. From the station the courrier leaves for
Collobrières (see p. 130).
Carnoules.
MARSEILLES
MENTON
63½
91½
CARNOULES. _Inn:_
H. de la Gare. Junction with line to Gardanne, 52 m. N.W., on
the line between Marseilles and Aix.
Gardanne. Barjols.
Gardanne to Carnoules.
Gardanne, pop. 3100.
H. Truc, with large coalfields, 11 m. N. from Marseilles and
7 m. S. from Aix (see p. 77). On this line,
16 m. N.W. from Carnoules and 36 m. E. from Gardanne, is
Brignoles, pop. 6000, on
the Carami. _Inns:_ Poste; Cloche d’Argent; Provence. This rather
dirty town, situated in the midst of plantations of plum and mulberry
trees, has long been famous for its dried plums. When ripe, they are
first carefully peeled and the stone taken out, then dried and gently
pressed. They are put up in small flat circular boxes. The church,
143
13th cent., is in the highest part of the town. St. Louis of Anjou,
Bishop of Toulouse, was born in the palace of the Counts of Provence,
now the Sous Préfecture, situated a little higher up the street than the
church. In the sacristy are preserved several of his sacerdotal
vestments. Diligence daily to Barjols, 16½ m. N., pop. 3000; H. Pont
d’Or; situated at the confluence of the Fouvery and the Crevisses (p. 167). Diligence also to Toulon by
Meounes (see p. 129).
St. Maximin.
On this branch line, 12 m. W. from Brignoles, is St. Maximin, 1043 ft. above
the sea, pop. 3400. _Inns:_ H. du Var; France. The church of
this ancient town was commenced by Charles II. of Sicily towards
the end of the 13th cent, over the underground chapel of St. Maximin,
1st cent. It has no transept. The nave is 239½ ft. long and 91½ ft.
high, and the aisles on each side 211 ft. long and 58 ft. high. The
width of the church is 127½ feet. The exterior is ugly and unfinished.
The interior of the roof rests on triple vaulting shafts rising from 10
piers on each side of the nave. Above the western entrance is a large
and fine-toned organ, which was saved from destruction by the organist
Fourcade playing upon it the Marseillaise. The case, the pulpit, and the
lovely screen of the sanctuary are of walnut wood from the forest of
Ste. Baume. Few parts of any church present such an admirable
combination of beauty, elegance, and symmetry as this sanctuary, by a
Flemish monk, Frère Louis, in 1692. Round the screen are 20 sculptured
panels, each bearing within a wreath a representation in relief of one
of the incidents in the life of some celebrated member of the order of
St. Dominic. Under them are 92 stalls in 4 rows; at one end is the
rood-loft, and at the other the high altar against the apsidal wall. The
entrance is by one door on each side, adorned with chaste sculpture and
spiral colonnettes. To the left, or N. of the altar, is a relief by
Puget (?) in marble, representing the Ascension of Mary Magdalene, and
on the other side, in terra-cotta, Mary receiving the Communion from St.
Maximin down in the crypt where she died. The reredos of the altar at
the east end of the N. aisle consists of a painting on wood by an
Italian artist in 1520. In the centre is a large Crucifixion, and on
each side 8 paintings on panels representing the Passion. Below, on the
table of the altar, is an Entombment. In the second chapel from this is
another reredos in the same style, representing St. Laurent, St.
Anthony, St. Sebastian, and St. Aquinius. Here, in a small window-like
recess, is a very ancient iron Crucifixion. From the chapel behind the
pulpit is the entrance into the cloister and convent, 13th and 14th
144
cents. The sculpture above the sound-board of the pulpit is of one
piece, and represents the Ascension of Mary Magdalene. The undulating
fluting on the panels and the sculpture on the railing are very
graceful. Behind is the stair down to the crypt in which Mary Magdalene
died after having swallowed a consecrated wafer given her by St.
Maximin. Her body was afterwards put into the elaborately-carved
alabaster sarcophagus on the left side of the altar. The marble
sarcophagus next it contained some bones of the Innocents Mary is said
to have brought with her from Palestine. Opposite Mary’s is the marble
sarcophagus of St. Maximin, 1st cent., and then follow the sarcophagi,
also in sculptured marble, of St. Marcella (Mary’s maid) and St.
Sidonius, 2d cent. They are all empty, having been rifled at the
Revolution of 1793. In the shrine on the altar is the skull of Mary
Magdalene, and in a sort of bottle the greater part of one of her
armbones. (See also under Six Fours,
p. 123.) The cave of Ste. Baume, in which Mary Magdalene is said to
have lived 34 years, is situated among the picturesque mountains, partly
in the Var, and partly in the Bouches du Rhône,
Mont Bretagne. Trets.
of which the culminating point is Mont Bretagne, 3498 ft. To go to it,
coach to La Poussiere, 5½ m. S.W., then ascend to the cave by Nans,
5 hrs. distant. Frequented by pilgrims. From the chapel St. Pilon, 3285
ft. above the cave, glorious view. (See map,
p. 123.) 12 m. W. from St. Maximin and 12 E. from Gardanne
is Trets, pop. 2200;
_Inn:_ France; a dirty town surrounded by its old walls
garnished with square towers. In the neighbourhood are coalpits, but
they are small and unimportant.
MARSEILLES
MENTON
75¼
79¾
LE LUC station, 1½ m. from
the town, pop. 3900. _Inns:_ Poste; Rousse. Coach daily from the
station by a beautiful road across the Maure mountains to St. Tropez,
26 m. S.E., by La Garde Fraisenet and Cogolin. Fare, 5 frs.
Time, 4 to 5 hours. The coach, shortly after leaving the station, begins
the ascent of the Maures, amidst vines, olives, chestnuts, and firs. On
the top of the pass, 1495 ft. above the sea and 12 m. from Luc, is
the village of La Garde Fraisenet, pop. 750, where the horses are
changed. This was the site of the Grand-Fraxinet, one of the strongholds
of the Saracens. 17 m. from Luc and 5 from La Garde is, on an
eminence, Grimaud, pop. 1400, an interesting village with arcaded
streets. In the principal square is a deep well hewn in the rock. The
massive walls of the church are built of large blocks of granite. On the
top of the hill is the castle built by Jean Cosse in the 15th cent., and
occupied till the
145
middle of the 18th. 19 m. from Luc, 7 from St. Tropez, and 25½ E. from
Hyères, is Cogolin, pop. 1000; _Inn:_ Piffard; situated on an
eminence. On the top of the hill the Saracens had a castle, from which
they were driven (p. 187), and all the
fortifications destroyed excepting one tower, now the town clock tower.
By the roadside, about half-way between Cogolin and St. Tropez, is a
very large fir tree. 32 m. N.E. from Hyères and 26 m. S.E. from Luc
station is
St. Tropez, pop.
3300, _Inn:_ Grand Hotel, a house with large rooms, at the
head of the port on the quay, commanding an excellent view of the bay.
The town, as usual, consists of dirty narrow streets. The church is in
the style found in the valley of the Rhône and along the east coast of
the Mediterranean. Nave surrounded by arches on high piers or tall
slight columns, such as at Tournon and Hyères. Small chancel and no
apsidal chapels, but generally an altar on the right and left of the
high altar, one of the two usually being to “Maria sine labe concepta.”
Behind the church, on a hill, is the citadel; and at the foot of the
hill, close to the sea, the cemetery. At the head of the harbour,
opposite the Grand Hotel, is a statue of Pierre André de Suffren, one of
the greatest admirals France ever had. He was born at St. Cannat, in
Provence, 13th July 1726, and died at Paris 8th December 1788. The
promenade has seven rows of large Oriental plane trees. The sea-urchins
of St. Tropez are very good. The drive by diligence from Luc to St.
Tropez is more beautiful than from Hyères to St. Tropez. Coach daily to
Hyères, 32½ m. W.
Draguignan. Lorgues.
MARSEILLES
MENTON
84½
70½
LES ARCS, pop. 1200,
H. de France. Branch line 8 m. N. to Draguignan on the Nartubie, pop. 10,000.
_Hotels:_ *Bertin; Poste; France; Var. From the side of the
H. Bertin diligences start for Salernes, pop. 2250, on the Bresque.
_Inn:_ H. Bernard; 13½ m N.W. from Draguignan (see map, p. 123). From Salernes the coach proceeds to
Aups, pop. 2350, on the Grave, 1657 ft. above the sea, and 7½ m. N.
from Salernes. _Inn:_ Gontard, with good beer. From Aups diligence
to Manosque by Riez (see p. 166). Also
diligence to Brignoles by Barjols (see
p. 143). From Draguignan diligence 3 times in the week to Fayence,
pop. 1000, situated half-way to Grasse. Diligence also to Lorgues, pop. 3000; _Inn:_
Bonne Foy; 6 m. W.
Draguignan is situated on the south side of the Malmont mountains,
which attain an elevation of 1995 ft. In the old town is the
clock-tower, 58 ft. high, commanding an extensive view of the plain and
of the surrounding mountains. In the new town the streets are broad and
intersected by avenues and a beautiful promenade containing
146
thirteen rows of lofty Oriental plane trees, about twenty in each row.
The Jardin des Plantes is small. In the Place aux Herbes is one of the
ancient gateways. Preserved fruits, oil, raw silk, and leather are the
principal products, ¾ m. from Draguignan, by the road to Comps, is
a large dolmen composed of one flat stone resting on four similar
stones. The top slab is 16 ft. long by 12½ wide and 1½ thick. The others
are each 7 ft. high, excepting one, which is broken. Indications of
markings may be traced. Growing around this interesting Celtic monument
are an oak, a splendid specimen of a “micocoulier” (_Celtis
australis_), and a juniper, 20 ft. high, of a very great age. The way
to it is from the H. Bertin, ascend the street, and take the first
road left. When within a few yards of the kilomètre stone, indicating 1
kil. from Draguignan and 30 from Comps, take the private road to the
left, leading into an olive tree plantation (see map, p. 123).
Frejus. Colosseum.
MARSEILLES
MENTON
98
57
FREJUS, pop. 3400,
H. Midi close to station. Situated on the Reyran at the S.W.
extremity of the Estérel mountains, a picturesque group 13 m.
from N. to S. and 10 from E. to W., traversed by the “Route de Paris en
Italie,” which, from Frejus to Cannes, 22½ m. E., passes by their
highest peak, Mont Vinaigre, 2020 ft. above the sea. The peculiar charm
of the Estérels is due to the warm reddish hue and fantastic forms of
the bare porphyry cliffs rising vertically from the midst of the sombre
green pines which clothe these mountains.
To the west of the station are the remains of the city walls, the
Porte de Gaules, and the Colosseum, or Arènes, of which the
greatest diameter was 224 ft., with accommodation for upwards of 9000
spectators. On the eastern side of the station are the Porte Dorée and
the terrace called the Butte St. Antoine. East of the Butte stood a
Roman lighthouse. At this part are remains of Roman towers and walls.
The masonry throughout is admirable, composed of stones of the size of
large bricks. The Porte Dorée has alternate layers of stone and brick.
Having visited the ruins by the side of the railway, pass up by the
church, and leave the town by a road having on the left hand a large
building—the seminary. Having walked a few paces, there will be
seen to the left rather an ugly square tower, which marks the site of
the theatre. The lofty ruins of arches in this neighbourhood are the
remains of the Roman aqueduct which brought water to Frejus from the
Siagnole, near Mons, 24 m. N.E., and contained 87 arches. To the
right of the road is a terrace supported by (once) powerful masonry.
Below is the old Chapelle St. Roch. In the higher part of the town is
the parish church, which, with the adjoining
147
“éveché,” belongs to the 12th cent. To the left on entering is the
baptistery. In the Rue Éveché is a house with a sculptured doorway and
well-executed caryatides. From Frejus commence the pleasant views and
glimpses of the Mediterranean, which continue all the way to Genoa. The
Phœnician merchants of Massilia (Marseilles) founded the cities of Forum
Julii or Frejus, Antipolis or Antibes, Nicæa or Nice, and Agatha or
Agde. Agricola, the father-in-law of Tacitus, was born at Frejus.
opp. 146
the ESTÉREL MOUNTAINS
with FREJUS and St. RAPHAËL
to CANNES
see caption
Saint Raphael.
MARSEILLES
MENTON
100½
54½
SAINT RAPHAEL, a
rapidly-increasing place of 3000 inhabitants. In winter its guests come
from the colder regions in quest of warmth, and in summer from the hot
interior in quest of the cooling breezes and the still more refreshing
sea-bathing. _Hotels:_ close to the station, the France, 8 to
9 frs. More expensive houses: G. H. de St. Raphael, on an
eminence, with garden; near the beach, the *G. H. des Bains, 9 to
13 frs.; and Beau Rivage. Among the numerous handsome villas is the
cottage built by Alphonse Karr. Temple Protestant, Anglican Chapel.
Little steamer daily to St. Tropez; whence diligence to Hyères (p. 134). Omnibus runs between St. Raphael and
Valescure, 2 m. inland, with G. H. de Valescure. St. Raphael,
only 43 minutes from Cannes, makes a salubrious and agreeable residence,
with pleasant walks, either by the beach or up the valley of the Garonne
into the Estérel mountains, where the rambles are endless. At the E. end
of St. Raphael is a very pleasant park, rising from the rocks on the
coast. A little farther towards Cannes is the Boulerie, with a
large hotel.
Napoleon landed at St. Raphael on his return from Egypt in 1799, and
here he embarked when he sailed for Elba. Along this part of the coast
are fine specimens of the _Pinus pinea_.
Agay. Sainte Baume.
MARSEILLES
MENTON
105
50
AGAY, a small custom-house
station, with a few houses at the head of a small but deep bay, into
which flows the stream Grenouiller. On the top of the conical hill, on
the S.W. side of the station, is the Tour de Darmont,
a signal-tower. The great excursion from Agay is to La Sainte
Baume, 4½ m. distant, and a little to the N. of the peak of Cape
Roux, 1444 ft. above the sea. From the station take the path eastward to
the old château, which leave on the right hand, and pass under the
railway to an abandoned farmhouse. There a good path begins and winds
upwards to the summit of a small hill. From there descend boldly into
the valley in an eastwardly direction towards the rugged red summit of
Cape Roux till a stream is reached. Leaving the stream, a pathway
will be seen going upwards to Cape Roux. Follow that till a high ridge
is reached, close to the summit,
148
where is a splendid view to the east and west and north-west; then take
to the left, and in a few hundred yards a platform, with a spout of
running water and a couple of abandoned buildings, is reached. Distance
about 3½ miles. About 260 ft. above this, in the face of the rock, is
La Sainte Baume, the holy
cave of St. Honorat, in which this saint is said to have lived a
hermit’s life for some years. The best way back to Agay is by the wide
path seen from the hermitage leading westward to the river in the
valley. On the way remark, on the left hand, a truncated stone
pillar, a Roman milestone, with an inscription. Some archæologists
base upon the existence of this stone their assertion that the Via
Aurelia passed this way. At the bottom of the valley cross the
Grenouiller, and join the road to Agay.
Le Trayas.
After Agay the railway sweeps round by the base of Cape Roux, where a
magnificent panoramic view displays itself, just before arriving at
Le Trayas, the next and
last station before reaching Cannes, 11 m. E. from St. Raphael,
6¼ m. E. from Agay, and 8¾ m. W. from Cannes. From Trayas also
a road leads to the chapel of Ste. Baume, which is considered nearer
though not so good as the road from Agay. At Trayas the train passes
from the department of Le Var to the department of the Alpes Maritimes,
then traverses the Saoumes tunnel, 886 yards, and having passed the
pretty villages of Theoule and La Napoule, enters the
beautifully-situated town of Cannes.
Cannes.
opp. 149
plan of Cannes
[East Edge: Northward Arrow] _To Villa Nevada_
[East Edge: Southward Arrow] _To Hotel California_
149
CANNES,
on the Gulf of Napoule, 120½ m. E. from Marseilles, 79 m. N.E.
from Toulon, 78¼ m. N.E. from Hyères, and 19¼ m. S.W. from
Nice. Fixed population, 19,400. Hotels and Pensions.—Although there are
already very many hotels, their number continues to increase. Of villas
there are about 450, which, with the exception of some 110 belonging to
resident French and English proprietors, are let by the season, from the
1st of October to the last of May, at rents varying from £80 to £1200,
including plate and linen. Many have coachhouse, stables, and gardens
attached. For information regarding them apply to Taylor and Riddett,
agents, bankers, and moneychangers, 43 Rue de Frejus. They have also a
well-supplied readingroom, which they place at the disposal of the
public without any charge. The first-class hotels charge from 10 to 25
frs. per day; the second from 8 to 12, including everything. A fair
gratuity for service during a prolonged stay is from 50 c. to 75 c. per
day.
Cannes: Hotels and Pensions.
Those requiring to study economy will find the most reasonable hotels
and pensions at the east end of the town. The Pension Mon Plaisir,
8 frs., in garden, Boulevard d’Alsace, near railway station. In the
Boulevard Cannet, Pension d’Angleterre, 9 to 10 frs., in garden. Farther
up the same Boulevard the Pension St. Nicolas, 8 frs. Near Trinity
Church, the *Pension Victoria, 8 to 11 frs., with very large garden
fronting the promenade.
Cab, with one horse and seated for two, from the station to the
hotels, 1½ fr.; each portmanteau, ½ fr.
The atmosphere on the hills, and at some little distance from the
sea, is supposed to be in a less electrical condition, and not so liable
to produce wakefulness, as in those places near the beach, and therefore
many prefer the hotels and pensions situated inland. _Hotels:_
fronting station, the Négociants; the 1 *Univers, 7½ to 9 frs. In the
Allées, on the beach, the Hôtel Splendide, 12 to 20 frs. At E. end of R.
d’Antibes, the Pensions Luxembourg; Wagram, 8 to 11 frs.; and the
H. Russie, 9 to 12 frs.
1
The asterisk, here as elsewhere, prefixed to the name of hotel indicates
that it is one of the best of its class.
_Hotels to the east of the Allées_, fronting the beach, taking
them in the order from west to east:—The National, 9 to 15 frs.;
Midi, 8 to 12 frs.; *Beau-Rivage; *Gray and Albion; *Grand Hotel; Plage;
the last four are first-class houses, charging from 10 to 20 frs. The
150
H. Suisse; Augusta; Anne Therese; *Victoria, in large garden, 8 to
12 frs. Behind the Grand Hotel is the Theatre. Behind the H. Midi,
in the R. Bossu, No. 8, the Post and Telegraph Offices.
On the north side of the railway, but a little higher, are the
Louvre; H. Central; Alsace-Lorraine, all 10 to 20 frs. St. Victor;
La Paix. A little way hack are the Pension d’Angleterre; H. de
France; H. Méditerranée, 9 to 13 frs.
Farther east, and approaching the region of Californie, are Hotels
Windsor; Mont-Fleuri; *Beau-Séjour; St. Charles; Des Anges; *Californie;
Des Pins, 10 to 25 frs. On the hill overlooking the H. de
Californie is the Villa Nevada, where the Duke of Albany died on Friday
morning, 28th March 1884.
In the interior, on eminences on the west side of the Boulevard
Cannet, are the *Prince of Wales; *Provence; Des *Anglais; *Richemont;
all with gardens, and charging from 12 to 25 frs. per day.
At the foot of this hill, on the Boulevard Cannet, is the Pension
Lerins, a plain but comfortable house, charging 7 to 8 frs.
A little higher up this Boulevard is the English church of St.
Paul; whence a road ascends to the Hôtel *Paradis, which, although a
first-class house, on an eminence in a garden, charges only from 10 to
15 frs. Next it is the Hôtel de Hollande, similarly situated. Also well
inland, on the Nouveau Chemin de Vallergues, is the H. *Beau-Lieu, 10 to
20 frs.
On the west side of Cannes, near the agency of Taylor and Riddett, is
the *Hôtel des Princes, 10 to 20 frs. On the hill above this part is the
H. Continental, 10 to 20 frs. Between the Scotch church and the
beach, and fronting the public garden, is the H. *Square Brougham, 8 to
10 frs., well situated. Beyond, between the railway and the beach, is
the H. Pavilion, 12 to 25 frs. A little beyond is Christ
Church, and on an eminence opposite the H. *Terrasse, 12 to 16 frs.,
a large house with garden. Farther west, and considerably inland,
upon separate eminences, are two handsome hotels, the *Belle-Vue, behind
the Rothschild villa; and the *Beau-Site, 12 to 25 frs., behind Lord
Brougham’s villa. Farther west, and on the same level, is the
H. Estérel, same price. On a hill, a little beyond the perfume
distillery of M. Lubin, is the Pension de la Tour, well situated,
and not expensive. The western suburb of Cannes is called La Bocca, and
sometimes La Verrerie, from the bottle-works there. From this a road
runs up the broad valley of the Siagne, where there are fields of the
fragrant red Turkey rose, gathered in May for the perfumeries (see page 161).
Cannes: Churches. Cab Fares. Steamers.
_Churches._—Christ Church, Rue de
Frejus; St. Paul’s, Boulevard
151
du Cannet; Trinity Church, a little to the east of the Cercle Nautique.
Scotch Church, Rue de Frejus. Near the Church of St. Paul is the Invalid
Ladies’ Home. French Churches, on the Route de Grasse, and in the Rue
Notre Dame. German Church, Boulevard Cannet.
Bank and money-changer opposite post office. In the neighbourhood the
office of Cook & Son, where their railway and hotel tickets are
sold.
_Cab
Fares._—One horse with 2 seats, the course 1½ fr.; the
hour, 2½ frs. Two horses with 4 seats, the course 2 frs.; the hour,
3½ frs. Portmanteaus, ½ fr. each. _Steamers_ from No. 20 Quai St. Pierre for
Marseilles and Cette. Twice daily for the islands of St. Marguerite and
St. Honorat, 1 and 2 frs. there and back. On Thursdays and
Saturdays trips to Theoule, 2 frs.
Lord Brougham.
Cannes extends 4½ m. from east to west, partly on the Gulf of Jouan,
and partly on the Gulf of Napoule, covering likewise with its houses and
gardens Cape Croisette, which separates these two gulfs. Landwards it
extends nearly the same distance, where large hotels crown the hills,
and pretty villas with gardens occupy the valleys. The principal square,
called the Allés de la Liberté, is nearly in the centre of the town, at
the head of the Gulf of Napoule, and is about 700 yards long by 110
wide. It contains the Hôtel de Ville and the H. Splendide. Between
them is a marble statue, life-size, “A Lord Brougham, né à
Edinburgh, le 19 Septembre 1778. Décédé à Cannes le 7 Mai 1868.” He is
in his official robes. In his left hand, resting on the top of a palm,
he holds a rose. The Hôtel de Ville contains the Public Library and
interesting collections illustrating the natural history of the
neighbourhood. The obliging director gives every assistance in naming
the plants, insects, and minerals. At the head of the Allées, and on the
adjoining eminence, is the old or original town. On this hill is the
Church of Notre-Dame-d’Espérance, 17th cent., with a reliquary of the
15th. In front is a rudely-constructed wall with embrasures. Above it
are St. Anne, 13th cent., the old chapel of the castle, and the square
tower commenced in 1080 by the Abbot Adalbert II., of the monastery
of St. Honorat. From the top is an extensive view. Near the foot of the
tower is a small observatory. On a much higher hill behind is the new
cemetery, where Lord Brougham was buried on the 24th of May 1868. The
monument consists of a massive lofty cross on a double basement, bearing
the following inscription:— “HENRICVS BROVGHAM. Natus MDCCLXXVIII.
Decessit MDCCCLXVIII.” Near him lies James, fourth Duke of Montrose,
K.T., died December 1874.
_The
climate_, though dry and sunny, is at times precarious. In
152
nooks sheltered by hills from the wind the heat is often oppressive, but
on leaving their protection a chilling current of air is experienced.
The mean winter temperature is 47° Fahr. The average number of rainy
days in the year is 52, and the annual rainfall 25 inches, the same as
at Nice. “The electrical condition of the climate of Cannes, as well as
its equable warmth and dryness, together with the stimulating properties
of the atmosphere, indicate its fitness for scrofulous and lymphatic
temperaments.” —Madden’s _Resorts_. “While Cannes, therefore,
possesses a winter climate well suited for children, elderly people, and
many classes of invalids, especially those who require a stimulating
atmosphere, it is not so well adapted for the majority of those
suffering from affections of the respiratory organs.” —_Dr.
Hassall._
Cannes: Drives.
_Drives._—In Cannes there are great
facilities for driving in carriages, light open cabs, and omnibuses. The
omnibuses start for their destinations either from the east corner of
the Cours (Allées de la Liberté), or from the Rue d’Antibes, near the
Cours. The largest livery stables are in the Rue d’Antibes. They charge
for a carriage, with coachman and two horses, per month £30. The cabmen
carry their tariffs with them, and are bound to show them when required.
Copies of the “Tarif des Voitures” are kept for distribution in the
Kiosque on the Cours. The recognised gratuity given to coachmen is at
the rate of 3 frs. for a 25 frs. fare.
Road to Vallauris.
THE CORNICHE OF CANNES.
The best of the drives is to Vallauris by the low road to the Golfe de
Jouan, 4 m. N.E., then up the valley to Vallauris, 2 m. N.,
and 250 ft. above the sea. From Vallauris return to Cannes, 5½ m.
S.W. by the Corniche road and La Californie. Carriage and pair, 25 frs.
Cab with one horse, 14 frs.; with two, 18 frs. Omnibus to Vallauris,
1 fr. By taking the omnibus to Vallauris the remainder makes a
delightful and easy walk along the Corniche road. Cross the Vallauris
bridge a little below Massier’s pottery, and ascend the broad road.
About ½ m. from the bridge is the “Observatoire de la Corniche,”
where tea and coffee can be had, and whence there is a charming view
east from Cannes to Bordighera. About half-way between this and the
observatory at the Cannes or S.W. end of the road is the large hotel
Cannes-Eden.
The Belvédère, at the Cannes end of the road, in La Californie, is 545 ft. above
the sea, and can be approached by omnibus from the Cours, 1 fr.
each. Behind it is the terminus of the branch of the canal which
supplies the east part of Cannes. The terminus of the
153
other branch, by which the west of Cannes is supplied, is just above the
Belle-Vue hotel on the road up to the Croix des Gardes. The canal
commences near the source of the Siagne, a few miles from St.
Cesaire.
From the Belvédère an excellent carriage-road ascends to a still
higher summit, 795 ft. above the sea, or 250 ft. above the Belvédère.
The view is similar, including more of the interior. A short
distance N.E. from this is another summit, 804 ft. above the sea, which
from the top looks as if it were nearly over Antibes.
Many prefer to commence this drive by Californie, and to return from
Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and the low road. Opposite the Golfe de
Jouan station is C. Massier’s pottery, and a few yards along the
road towards Antibes is Napoleon’s column (p. 169).
Vallauris. Pottery. Mines.
Vallauris, pop.
4000, is a poor village, with small cafés and restaurants. The omnibus
stops in the “Place” opposite the church and the Hôtel de Ville,
containing a large flat stone bearing an inscription, stating that “the
Emperor Tiberius remade the road it refers to in the 32d year of his
tribunician authority.” Also a column, 4 ft. high and 14 inches in
diameter, bearing an inscription to Constantine.
Vallauris has long been famous for the manufacture of kitchen pottery,
“Potteries Réfractaires,” earthenware utensils, principally of the
“marmite” or stewpan class, capable of bearing great heat without
cracking. A dozen marmites, in assorted sizes, are sold for
2 frs. To this the Massiers and others have added the manufacture
of artistic pottery, of which there is a good display, both in the
showrooms in the village and in those down at the Golfe de Jouan.
Several of the clay-beds may be seen by the side of the road leading up
northwards from Vallauris; but the best and richest strata, all of the
Pleiocene period, are in that valley near the spot where this road meets
the road to Antibes. About 220 yards beyond this meeting-place a cut-up
road ramifies, left, into the valley containing the clay-mines. The entrances
into them are covered with roofing. Any one may descend into them. The
colours of the clay are blue, red, black, and gray, all in various
shades. The most valuable is the blue. Most of the common articles are
made of a mixture of all the clays. Red clay from Estaque, near
Marseilles, is also used in the making of artistic pottery.
Vallauris to Antibes.
The road leading northward from Vallauris and afterwards S.E. to Antibes
traverses beautiful hills and valleys covered with Aleppo pines. Having
passed the junction and the valley of the mines, we come to a firebrick
and marmite manufactory, 410 ft. above the sea. The road behind,
extending N.W., ascends to Castelaras. Afterwards a bridge is passed,
and some arches of the aqueduct built by the Romans to convey water to
Antibes. (For Antibes, see pp. 154 and
169.)
154
Cannet. La Croisette.
CANNET.
Two miles N. from Cannes, by the beautiful Boulevard Foncière, is
Cannet, 265 ft., pop. 2600. At the head of the Boulevard is the
H. *Bretagne, 10 to 20 frs. A little to the east of the church Ste.
Philomène is a smaller house, the H. and Pension Cannet, 8 to 10
frs. Immediately opposite the church is the Villa Sardou, where in 1858
the accomplished tragedian Rachel died of consumption. At that time none
of those broad roads existed which now encircle the house. Above the
church is the “Place,” commanding a very pretty view. Omnibus, 6 sous.
Cab to Cannet, and return by the Grasse road, 7 or 9 frs.
Drive to La
Croisette, the first cape east from Cannes, by the beautiful
road 2 m. long, skirting the sea. Cab, 1 horse and 2 seats, 1½ fr.,
or 2½ frs. the hour. 2 horses with 4 seats, 2 frs. Tram, 6 sous.
Omnibus 6 times daily, fare 30 c. This is a most enjoyable walk or drive
by the beautiful esplanade fronting the sea. Near to La Croisette is the
entrance to the orange orchard “Des Hesperides,” occupying 4 acres. The
trees stand in rows 12 ft. apart, and were planted in 1852, when they
were from 5 to 8 years old. In gardens in the country the oranges cost
about a sou each, but in the Hesperides they are dearer. The best are
those the second year on the tree. Frosts retard the sweetening process,
and in some years damage the trees. In the village of La Croisette there
is a place for pigeon-shooting, and also the remains of fortifications
begun by Richelieu, but never completed.
_Cannes to the Cap d’Antibes_, 7 m. E. Cab with 1 horse and 2
seats, 18 frs. With 2 horses and 4 seats, 22 frs. Private carriage, 30
frs. Omnibus between Cannes and Antibes 3 times daily. In Cannes it
starts from the Allées de la Liberté, and in Antibes from the “Place,”
fare 1 fr. Very near this “Place” are two comfortable inns, the
H. Escouffier and the H. des Aigles d’Or; pension 7 to
8 frs. Their omnibuses await passengers at the railway station.
Antibes has a little harbour and pier, and strong fortifications by
Vauban, who also built the fortress Fort Carré, near the northern side
of the entrance. From the N. ramparts, but more especially from the high
walk above the pier on the roofs of some small houses, are seen
distinctly Nice, the fishing village Cros de Cagne, and Cagne. Inland
from Cagne are St. Jeannet, La Goude, Vence, and St. Paul, and, farther
west, Le Bar. In the background are the Maritime Alps, generally tipped
with snow in winter. In the centre of the town are two ancient towers.
One of them stands in front of the church, and is used as the belfry;
the other forms part of an adjoining building, the “Bureau du
Recrutement.”
opp. 155
CANNES & ENVIRONS
see caption
Cap d’Antibes. Lighthouse.
The Cap d’Antibes
affords a delightful little walking excursion. To visit the “Cap” from
Antibes, leave the town by the small gate, the
155
Porte Fausse, between the sea and the Porte de France, and then take the
first road left by the side of the sea and the telegraph-posts. Ascend
the hill, to the church, by the terraced steps of a “Via Crucis,”
bordered with the usual 14 chapels, each with a group representing some
part of the passion of our Lord. At the top is N. D. d’Antibes,
frequented by pilgrims. The north aisle, which is the oldest part of the
building, is of the 9th cent. Behind it is the lighthouse built in 1836, on a hill 187 ft. above the
sea. The building is 82 ft. higher, and ascended by 115 steps. On the
top is a fixed white light, visible at a distance of 28 miles. Fee for
one person, ½ fr. The view is splendid. Before descending, observe the
road to the Villa Thuret and to the Hôtel du Cap, a first-class
house, 10 to 14 frs. Omnibus at station. The villa and grounds of Thuret
are now a Government school for the culture and study of semi-tropical
trees and shrubs. It is said that the first gum trees introduced into
France were planted in 1853, and those in this garden in 1859. (For
Antibes, see also p. 169.) The great tower on
a rock to the W., overlooking the sea, is a powder-magazine.
Croix des Gardes. Theoule.
Drives to the west of the Hôtel de Ville.—_La Croix des
Gardes_, 2½ m. N.W., and 498 ft. above the sea. The nearest
way ramifies from the Frejus road by the E. side of the Belle-Vue hotel.
The cross rises from a column on a block of granite. The view is
extensive. By the side of the road will be observed considerable
plantations of the _Acacia farnesiana_, from whose flowers a
pleasant perfume is distilled.
_Cannes to Napoule_, 6 m. W,
Cab with 1 horse and 2 seats, 12 frs.; with 2 horses and 4 seats, 16
frs. 1 hour’s rest allowed. By omnibus, 30 c., leaving Cannes at 1 for
the Bocca. At the Bocca it corresponds with the omnibus to Napoule, 50
c.; which, as it does not return till 4.30, affords ample time to walk
on to Theoule and back,
2 m. W. The Napoule road commences from the western, or what
is also called the English, portion of Cannes. It passes the little
Scotch church, behind which are the Square Brougham and the public
gardens. Farther W. is Christ Church, one of the three Episcopal
Chapels. A short distance beyond, on the right side of the road, is
the villa Eléonore-Louise, where Lord Brougham died. The house is hidden
among the trees, but the garden is easily recognised by 2 large cypress
trees growing by the side of the rail. Three m. from Cannes, on an
eminence covered with pines, oaks, and cypresses, on the S. side of the
road, is the poor little chapel of St. Cassien, the patron saint of Cannes, whose day is
held on the 23d of July, in much the same manner as the Pardons in
Brittany, called here Roumeiragi. Napoule is a small hamlet by the side
of an old castle on the beach, at the foot of wooded hills. From it a
very pretty road by the coast, cut in the face of the cliffs, leads to
the hamlet of Theoule, on a tiny plateau over the beach, at the foot of
the Estérel mountains. The restaurant of Theoule is better than that at
Napoule. Between these two hamlets, and spanned by the railway viaduct,
a narrow precipitous valley penetrates into the mountains. From
Theoule a road extends to Trayas.
Estérel. Pégomas.
_Cannes to the Inn of
Estérel_, 12 m. S.W. and 830 ft. above the sea.
156
Carriage there and back, 35 frs. Cab with one horse and two seats, 18
frs.; with two horses and four seats, 22 frs. After passing the Bocca
and St. Cassien, the carriage crosses the Siagne, having on the right or
north Mandelieu nestling in the sun, at the foot Mt. le Duc, 1265 ft.,
a little to the east of the flat peak La Gaëte, 1663 ft. Afterwards
the Riou is crossed at the village of Le Tremblant, 167 ft. above the
sea, whence the ascent is continued by an excellent road amidst
picturesque scenery to the Inn and Gendarmerie of Estérel. The inn is
situated to the N. of Mt. Vinaigre, having to the east the Plan Pinet,
876 ft. above the inn, and to the west Mt. Vinaigre, 1193 ft. above the
inn. The path to the summit of Mt. Vinaigre commences near the inn. The
culminating part, 1030 ft., of the carriage-road is about 1¼ m.
west from the inn at a place where four roads meet, almost immediately
below Mt. Vinaigre, which is ascended from this point also.
7 m. N. from Cannes by the Plaine de Laval and the wide valley of the
Siagne, passing the Hôtel Garibondy, is the village of Pégomas, pop. 1350, on the
Mourachone, a slow-running stream, in some parts hidden among
bamboos. Beyond the mill of the village is a pretty but difficult walk
up the ravine of the stream. Omnibus, 75 c. Cab, 12 or 16 frs.; 1 hour’s
rest.
About 3 m. N.W. is Auribeau, pop. 480, prettily situated on the
Siagne. Cab, 18 or 22 frs., with 2 hours’ rest.
Mougins. Castelaras.
4¾ m. N. from Cannes, on a hill 820 ft. above the sea, is Mougins, pop. 1680. The road ascends
all the way, passing by the cemetery and traversing vineyards and large
olive groves. The omnibus goes no farther than Les Baraques, about
¼ m. below the town. Fare, 75 c. Cab there and back, one horse, 12
frs.; two horses, 16 frs.; 1 hour’s rest. Mougins still retains a few
low portions of its walls and one gate, just behind the church. In the
shop near the gate is the key of the church tower. The church dates from
the 12th cent. From the tower, ascended by 75 steps, is a beautiful
view. To the west is La Roquette, N.W. Mouans-Sartoux, and beyond
Grasse. To the S.W. near the sea, and on the border of the Estérels, is
the village of Mandelieu.
4 m. N. from Mougins, by the stony old road, or a little farther by the
new road, is Castelaras, 1050 ft. above the sea. It is half a
villa and half a farmhouse, commanding from the tower a splendid view of
Grasse, Le Bar, the valley of the Loup, Tourettes, Vence, etc., to the
north; Biot, Antibes, Nice, etc., to the east; Mouans, Auribeau, and the
Estérel mountains to the west; and Cannes with its islands to the south.
The easiest way to approach Castelaras on foot is to take the train to
Mouans-Sartoux, pop. 1010, then ascend the hill by the steep road to the
east of the station. When on the top the farmhouse and tower are
distinctly seen. Carriage there and back, 35 frs. The column farther
north marks the tomb of a gentleman who died at Grasse in 1883.
_Sail by steamboat_ to the Iles de Lerins. Time, 1 hr. The steamer
makes two trips, so that passengers may land by the first at Ste.
Marguerite, and by the second be carried on to St. Honorat, where the
steamer remains sufficient time to visit the castle.
157
ILES DE LERINS.
The Island of Ste. Marguerite, 4½ m. in circumference and 1½ m.
from the mainland, is covered entirely with a pine forest, except at
Point Croisette, on which stands the fort founded by Richelieu,
containing the apartments in which Marshal Bazaine was confined and the
far more interesting vaulted cell in which the Man of the Iron Mask was
closely guarded. The present entrance did not exist at that time, the
only communication then being by the now walled-up door which led into
the house of the governor, M. de St. Mars. From behind the prison a
road, bordered by the _Eucalyptus globulus_, goes right through the
pine plantation to the other side of the island.
The Man of the Iron Mask.
The name of the Man of the Iron Mask was Hercules Anthony Matthioli,
a Bolognese of ancient family, born on the 1st December 1640. On
the 13th of January 1661 he married Camilla, daughter of Bernard
Paleotti, by whom he had two sons, one of whom only had posterity, which
has long since been extinct. Early in life Matthioli was public reader
in the University of Bologna, which he soon quitted to enter the service
of Charles III., Duke of Mantua, by whom he was finally made
Secretary of State. The successor of Charles III., Ferdinand
Charles IV., the last sovereign of Mantua, of the house of Gonzaga,
created Matthioli supernumerary senator of Mantua, and gave him the
title of Count. Towards the end of 1677 the Abbé d’Estrades, ambassador
from France to the Republic of Venice, conceived the idea, which he was
well aware would be highly acceptable to the insatiable ambition of his
master, Louis XIV., of inducing the weak and unfortunate Duke Ferdinand
Charles to allow of the introduction of a French garrison into Casale,
a strongly-fortified town, in a great measure the key of Italy. The
cession of the fortress of Pinerolo to the French by Victor Amadeus,
Duke of Savoy, in 1632, had opened to them the entrance into Piedmont,
while the possession of Casale would have opened to them the broad and
fertile plains of Milan.
The great difficulty Estrades had to encounter at first in the
prosecution of this intrigue was to find a medium of communication
between himself and the Duke. This channel was at last found in the
person of Matthioli, who enjoyed the Duke’s confidence and favour, and
was besides a complete master of Italian politics. Through him the
schemes of Estrades progressed so well that he was invited to the French
court, where he was received and rewarded by Louis XIV.,
158