(For the following see maps, pages 66 an_The South of France—East Half

123.) Coach daily

from the “Cours” to Rians, 20 in. N.E., passing Vauvenargues, 8 m.

E. The castle, 14th cent., and village of Vauvenargues are situated

near the cascades of the Val Infernets, and within 3 hrs. of the

culminating point, 3175 ft. above the sea, of the Sainte Victoire

mountains. Rians, pop. 2900,

_Inn:_ Hôtel Barème, is situated amidst olive trees and vineyards.

Coach daily from Rians to Meyrargues, on the railway 34½ m. N. from

Marseilles, and 155½ S. from Grenoble, passing Jouques, 7½ m. N.,

with the ruins of its castle, both situated in the gorge of the Riaou,

in which rise the copious springs of the Bouillidous, which irrigate the

fields and set in motion numerous mills. 2 m. beyond Jouques is

Peyrolles (pop. 1200.

_Inn:_ Hôtel du Grand Logis), on the Durance, and at the foot of

the Grand Sambiu, 2560 ft. above the sea. In the chapel of the old

fortress is a painting on wood attributed to King René.

Meyrargues (pop.

2000. _Inn:_ Reynaud) is situated with its castle

in the valley of the Volubière. Coach at station awaits passengers from

Rians.

Diligences. Branch Lines.

Diligence also from the Cours to Pélissanne, 18 m. W., passing by

La Barben, with one of the best castles in Provence, 14 m.

W. Coach from Pelissanne to Salon, 4 m. W. (For Salon, see p. 66.) 5 m. N.E. from Pelissanne is

Lambesc.

Diligences leave the Cours also for St. Cannat and Lambesc; but the best

way is to go on to the next station N. from Aix, La Calade, where a

coach awaits passengers for St.

Cannat, 5 m. N.W., and Lambesc, 3½ m. farther. In the

village of St. Cannat is the chapel of N. D. de la Vie, visited by

pilgrims. Lambesc,

14 m. from Aix, pop. 3000, is a pretty little town, agreeably

situated at the foot of the hill Berthoire. The manufactures of olive

oil and silk form the principal industries.

7 m. S. from Aix, and 11 m. N. from Marseilles, is Gardanne, pop.

3500, with extensive coalfields. Junction here with branch to Carnoules,

52 m. S.E., on the line between Marseilles and Cannes. (See under

Carnoules,

p. 142.)

From Rognac the train passes by the Étang de Berre, and halts at

Vitrolles, on the east side of the rail, 2½ m. S. from Rognac.

3¼ m. S. from Vitrolles and 11¼ m. N. from Marseilles is

Pas-des-Lanciers, junction with line to Martigues (see p. 66), 12¾ m. E.

Four and a half miles south from the Pas-des-Lanciers, and

7 miles north from Marseilles, is the station of L’Estaque, a village on the

sea, full of large brick and tile works, extending a good way up the

valley of the Séon. This is the birthplace of the painter, sculptor,

architect, and engineer Pierre Puget, born 31st October 1622, died at

Marseilles 2d December 1694, in the 51st year of the reign of Louis

XIV., to the glory of which his genius had contributed. He was the

youngest of three brothers, the children of Simon Puget, a poor

stonemason, who died while Pierre was still a boy.

Marseilles (see p. 111). Cabs and

the omnibuses from all the principal hotels await passengers in the

large open court just outside the arrival side of the railway station.

At the east end of the departure side of the railway station is the

Station Hotel, very comfortable, but the prices are rather more than

moderate.

LYONS TO NÎMES.

172 m. south by the west bank of the Rhône, passing Oullins,

Givors-canal, Ampuis, Peyraud, Tournon, La Voulte, Le Pouzin, Le Teil,

Laudun, and Rémoulins. Thence to Marseilles other 79 miles.

Maps, pages 26, 46,

56 and 66.

NÎMES

172

LYONS: start from the Perrache station. The train after passing

Oullins and Irigny arrives at Vernaison, 9 m. from Lyons, pop.

1400, with manufactories of pocket-handkerchiefs, and a large castle

converted into a school. 4 m. farther is Givors-canal, where the Nîmes line

separates from the line to St. Etienne, 29 m. W. The canal of

Givors, commenced in 1761, is 13 m. long, and is used chiefly by

the coal barges. Near Tartaras it traverses a tunnel 118 yards long. The

train now proceeds to Loire, 16½ m. S. from Lyons, pop. 1400,

famous for chestnuts, and then 8 m. farther down the Rhône to

Ampuis (opposite Vaugris), pop.

2000, H. du Nord, producing apricots, melons, and chestnuts, and

possessing 94 acres of the Côte-Rotie vineyards, of which 46 acres

belong to the first class, yielding one of the best wines of France,

remarkable for its fine colour, flavour, and violet perfume. It is a

little heady, and gains much by a voyage. 3 m. farther south by

rail is Condrieu, with 87 acres of vineyards, producing luscious white

wines, becoming amber-coloured. 31 m. S. from Lyons is Chavanay,

pop. 1800, with old castle and suspension bridge. _Inns:_

H. Commerce; Soleil; omnibus at station. 4 m. from Chavanay by

coach is Pelussin, pop. 4000. Romanesque church with crypt and ruins of

Virieux castle. 7 m. farther is Serrieres, pop. 1700. Railway

viaduct of 66 arches.

LYONS

NÎMES

39¼

132¾

PEYRAUD, pop. 400.

Junction with line to Annonay, 9 m. W., and to Grenoble, 60 m.

E. by Rives and Voreppe. Annonay, pop. 16,500, built in the hollow and on

the sides of the surrounding mountains, at the confluence of the Déôme

and the Cance. _Inn:_ H. Midi, in the principal square,

occupying the centre of the low town.

The ruins of the old castle are on a rock by the side of the Cance. The

Hôtel de Ville is on a hill beyond. The spot from which the brothers

Joseph and Etienne Montgolfier made the first air-balloon ascent, 3d

June 1783, is indicated by a pyramid. They were also the founders of one

of the celebrated paper mills of Annonay; whose paper was long esteemed

the best in France. 27 m. N.W. from Annonay by coach, traversing a

beautiful mountain-road, is St. Etienne. From Annonay the road ascends

9¾ m. to Bourg-Argental, pop. 3600. _Inn:_ France. Bourg, as

the inhabitants call it, is a silk-rearing and manufacturing town, on

the Déôme, in a hollow surrounded by mountains

covered with vines and mulberry trees. 2 m. farther the road passes the

castle of Argental, and shortly after reaches its culminating point on a

vast tableland to the south of Mont Pilat. The country around is covered

with a great forest of firs. The obelisks along the road are to guide

travellers when snow is on the ground. The road now crosses the plateau

called La République, bounded by the Bois de Merlon, and then descends

to St. Etienne by Planfoy, 5 m. from St. Etienne, and La Rivière

2 m. 17½ m. by rail from Annonay is Tournon.

Tournon.

56½ m. S. from Lyons, 115½ N. from Nîmes, and opposite Tain, with

which it is connected by two suspension bridges, is Tournon, pop. 6100, on the Rhône. Hôtel de

l’Assurance between the bridges, and opposite the landing-place from the

Lyons and Avignon steamers. Fishers can easily reach from Tournon many

of the tributaries of the Rhône. Next the hotel is the castle of the

Counts of Tournon, now the Palais de Justice. Beyond it is the church of

St. Julien, built in 1300. The interior is on lofty early pointed

arches. Wine, silk, and olives supply the principal industries. Coach

daily to Le Cheilard, 5½ hrs., ascending

all the way (see p. 83). Coaches also to St. Félicien, 3 hrs. W.;

to St. Agrève, 9¼ hrs. W.; and to St. Martin de Valamas, 7½ hrs. W.

3 m. N. from Tournon is Vion, with a beautiful church. (See map, p. 46.)

LYONS

NÎMES

65½

106½

SAINT PERAY, pop. 3000.

_Inn:_ H. du Nord. Omnibus at station. Also omnibus for

Valence. An uninteresting village about ten minutes from the station,

situated on the sunny side of the valley of the Merdary. The vineyards

here produce an excellent sparkling wine, the taste of which is natural,

not given to it by the addition of prepared cordials, as is the case

with the other champagnes.

69 m. from Lyons is Soyons, pop. 900, under an eminence crowned by

the Tour Maudite, an old fortress. 77 yards above the village is a cave,

La Grotte de Néron, in which prehistoric remains have been found.

2½ m. farther is Charmes, pop. 1000, and other 3 m.

Beauchastel, pop. 1000, 2 m. from St. Laurent du Pape. (Map, p. 46.)

La Voulte. St. Sauveur. Le Cheilard.

LYONS

NÎMES

LA VOULTE, pop. 5000.

_Inn:_ H. du Musée. Temple Protestant. Railway and steamboat

stations. A dirty and badly-paved town on the right bank and on the

steep sides of a hill rising from the Rhône. On the summit are the

Grande Place, the parish church, and the castle, commenced by Bernard

Anduze in 1305, and finished by Gilbert III. de Ventadour in 1582,

who also built the chapel. The castle is now inhabited by workmen, and

the chapel is a magazine. By the side of the castle is a large

iron-foundry, employing 170 men.

The ores come from rich mines a little way up the valley, near the

decayed mineral water establishment of Celles-les-Bains. _Inn:_

H. Chalvet, 2 m. down the Rhône, but behind the hills. The

water contains iron with a little free carbonic acid gas. Coach daily

from La Voulte to Le Cheilard (or Cheylard), 30 m. N.W., 6 hrs.,

and to St. Pierreville, 24 m. W., 5 hrs. The road to the two places

separates at St. Sauveur, 8¾ m. E. from St. Pierreville, and

15 m. S.E. from Le Cheilard. (See map,

p. 46.) St.

Sauveur, pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Poste; Voyageur. Is prettily

situated on the Erieux, which descends from Le Cheilard, between high

rocky banks cultivated to the summit by a series of laboriously walled

terraces, on which are small fields of wheat intermingled with walnut,

chestnut, apple, pear, and cherry trees, and in the more favoured spots

vines and peach and mulberry trees. The road skirts the cliffs, and is

itself terraced the greater part of the way. A few miles up the

river, opposite the village Chalançon, _Inn:_ H. Astier, is a

very good specimen of an old donkey-backed bridge, Le Cheilard, 2130 ft. above

the sea, pop. 3500. _Inn:_ H. Courtial. This, the great

diligence centre of Ardèche, is a dingy, dirty town, with narrow

streets, beautifully situated on the Evreux, in a hollow between lofty

terraced mountains. Coaches daily to Valence, La Voulte, and Tournon.

Every other day to Annonay by the same road as the Tournon coach as far

as a little beyond Mastre, 1280 ft. above the sea, whence it diverges

northward. Coach daily also to Le Puy, 36 m. N.W., by St.

Martin-de-Valamas, pop. 2200, at the confluence of the Eysse and the

Erieux and Fay-le-Froid, 22 m. E. from Le Puy, near the river

Lignon, pop. 900. (Map, page 46.)

ROAD TO THE SOURCE OF THE LOIRE.

Saint

Sauveur to Le Beage by St. Pierreville, Marcols, Mezillac, and

Lachamp-Raphaél (Gerbier-de-Jones). The road from St. Sauveur to St.

Pierreville ascends the Gluyère or Glaire in much the same way as the

road to Le Cheilard ascends the Erieux. St. Pierreville, 1788 ft. above the sea,

pop. 2100. _Inns:_ Rochier; Commerce. Temple Protestant. On an

eminence rising from the Gluyère. At St. Pierreville passengers for

Marcols enter a smaller vehicle. The whole way the road follows the

course of the Gluyère, between great granite cliffs. 2 m. before

reaching Marcols is the clean little village of Olbon, on both

sides of the Gluyère, with a nice inn, the H. des Voyageurs, and a

Temple Protestant. A little farther by the side of the stream is a

spring of mineral water containing iron and carbonic acid gas.

Marcols. Lachamp-Raphaél.

6 m. W. from St. Pierreville is Marcols, 3380 ft. above the sea, a small

village with three silk mills, on an eminence rising from the Gluyère.

_Inn:_ H. de l’Union. This is the terminus of the

stagecoaches, for the other places westwards vehicles must be hired. As

conveyances cannot always be had at Marcols, the most prudent plan for

those going on to Le Beage, and not disposed to walk the distance, is to

spend the night at St. Pierreville, and to start early next morning in a

vehicle hired from the “Bureau des Diligences,” 15 frs. per day,

with one horse. Gig from Marcols to Lachamp-Raphaél, 11 frs. Le Beage is

28¼ m. N.W. from St. Pierreville, passing through Marcols

6 m., Mezillac 11¾ m., and Lachamp-Raphaél 16 m.

The road from Marcols to Mezillac, 2¼ hrs., coils up the sides of steep

terraced mountains. Near the summit of one, in a very exposed situation,

is the small hamlet of Mezillac, consisting of low massive stone

cottages, and a modern church built in the style of the former one, 10th

cent. Refreshments can be had at the Bureau de Tabac. A little

farther down is the inn. At Mezillac the road from Le Cheilard to

Aubenas intersects the road from Mezillac to Le Beage. Thus far the

prevailing rock has been granite, but about ½ m. from Mezillac the

road skirts the face of a mountain one mass of basaltic prisms.

4½ m. W. from Mezillac is the hamlet of Lachamp-Raphaél, 4364 ft. above the sea.

Most of the better cottages take in travellers, where generally

abundance of good milk, butter, eggs, coffee, and potatoes may be had,

with a bed. There are no trees in this region. About 1 hour from Lachamp

by a bad road is the cascade du Ray-Pic, which plunges down into a dark

abyss. Any lad can show the way.

Source of the Loire.

MONT MEZENC

and the SOURCE of the LOIRE

opp. 84

see caption

THE GERBIER-DE-JONCS AND MONT MEZENC.

2 m. beyond Lachamp-Raphaél, just under the culminating point of the

road (4600 ft. above the sea), is a farmhouse called La Maison

Bourlatié, and near it a flattened peak. Just beyond this Maison

Bourlatié a road diverges to the right (eastward) from the main road,

which take for the Gerbier-de-Joncs, the top of which is distinctly seen

after having proceeded a short way, and is hardly an hour’s easy walking

from Bourlatié. It is a most interesting and easy excursion. The

Gerbier-de-Joncs (_Gerbiarum jugum_) is an isolated pointed

cone, composed of masses and fragments of trachyte, rising 325 ft. above

the tableland, 5125 ft. above the sea, and commanding a wide and

extensive view. At the base, south side, from under a block of trachyte

and some loose stones, wells gently forth the infant Loire, running

first into a little circular basin for the use of the adjoining

farmhouse, whence it runs down the bank in a tiny streamlet from 3 to 4

inches wide, but soon becomes sufficiently powerful to turn the wheel of

a mill. The continuation of the road from the Gerbier goes to Les

Etables, 22 m. S.E. from Le Puy, at the foot of Mount Mezenc, 5755

ft. above the sea. Now go on to Le Beage, or return for the night to

Lachamp, 22½ m. N. from Aubenas by Antraigues.

Lachamp-Raphaél to Le Beage,

12½ m. W. Char-à-banc, 10 frs. The road, which has been

ascending all the way from Valence and La Voulte, continues to ascend

till about 1¾ m. beyond Lachamp, where it attains its culminating

point, about 4600 ft. A little farther the road to the Gerbier

diverges to the right. Less than 2 m. from this the road crosses

the Loire, and soon after is joined by the road from the village of St.

Eulalie on the way to Montpezat.

Le Beage. Mezenc.

Le Beage, pop. 850.

_Inns:_ La Maison Brun; H. des Voyageurs. A dirty cattle

and swine breeding village, 4122 ft. above the sea, beautifully

situated on an eminence rising from the Veyradère, which rushes past in

a dark ravine below. Pasture being the principal crop cultivated, the

mountain sides have no terraces. Four great fairs are held annually

here. The winter is long and severe, but from June to October the

weather is pleasant. The staple occupation of the females is lace-making

on a pillow with bobbins. The design is on paper fixed to a short

cylinder, and is further indicated by pins with coloured glass heads.

The linen thread is given them by the merchants, who pay them at the

rate of from 2d. to 4½d. the yard, according to the breadth of the lace,

from 2 to 4 inches. A most industrious lace-maker can earn

1 fr. per day. 3¼ m. S.W. from Le Beage in an extinct crater

is the lake Issarlès, occupying a surface of 222 acres.

From Le Beage the trachytic mountain of Mezenc (pronounce Mezing) is visited. But the

best plan is to go on to Les Etables, 4410 ft. above the sea, 7½ m.

N. from Le Beage by the wheel road, but only half that distance by the

direct path. _Inns:_ Testud; Chalamel, where pass the night. The

hamlet is situated at the foot of Mont Mezenc, 5755 ft. above the sea,

or 1345 ft. above Les Etables, and 866 ft. above the hamlet of Mezenc.

The ascent takes about an hour.

LE BEAGE TO LE PUY.

Le Beage is 12 m. S.E. from Monastier, passing through Chabanis. On the

opposite side of the river are seen Freycenet, 3905 ft. above the sea,

and Crouziols, 4½ m. S. from Monastier. Char-à-banc between Le

Beage and Monastier, 10 frs.

Le Monastier.

LE MONASTIER,

pop. 4000, on an eminence rising from the Colanse. _Inns:_

Commerce; Voyageurs. Coach daily to Le Puy, 11 m. N.W. 10¼ m.

S. is Salettes, and 22 m. S. St. Paul de Tartas, 3393 ft. above the

sea, at the foot of Mont Tartas, 4424 ft. St. Paul is near Pradelles,

connected by diligence with Le Puy and Langogne. The parish church, St.

Théofrède, of Le Monastier, was, along with the abbey, founded in 680,

and rebuilt in 961 by Ufald, 10th abbot of Monastier, and repaired and

enlarged in 1493 by Estaing, the 45th abbot. The edifice exhibits

throughout the Auvergne style of architecture. The portal consists of a

semicircular arch with 6 mouldings resting on four short columns with

sculptured capitals. Above the tympanum and also over the large

rectangular window are rude mosaics. Under the eaves of the roof runs a

string moulding of grotesque sculpture, representing men and animals. In

the interior the capitals of the columns and the corbels on the vaulting

shafts are similarly adorned. In the apse is the chapel of Saint

Théofrède; with sculptured stone roof. He is the “protecteur du

Monastier”— “le bon pasteur, qui s’expose a la mort pour son

troupeau”— the “conservateur des fruits de la terre.” (See his

litany.)

11¼ m. N. from Le Monastier by diligence along a beautiful mountain-road

is Le Puy. The bureau at Le Puy of both the diligence and the courier is

at No. 1 Rue du Pont-St. Barthélémy near the large “Place” and the

hotels. About half-way from Le Monastier is the

village of Arsac, _Inn:_ H. des Voyageurs, and about 1 m.

more, on an eminence, the village and the still imposing remains of the

fortress of Bouzols, 10th cent. Shortly after having crossed the Loire

at the town of Brives, the diligence enters Le Puy, 2 m. from

Brives.

Le Puy. The Cathedral.

36 m. S.W. by rail from St. Etienne, 89½ m. from Lyons, and

33 m. S.E. from St. George d’Aurac junction, on the line between

Clermont and Nîmes (see maps, pp. 26 and 46), is

Puy,

pop. 20,000, from 2000 to 2250 ft. above the sea, between the rivers

Borne and Dolezon, affluents of the Loire, 2 m. from the town.

_Hotels:_

Ambassadeurs; Europe; Nord. To visit Le Puy, the best plan is to begin

with the Cathedral. From the high side of the Place

de Breuil, at the N.W. corner, ascend by the streets St. Gilles,

Chenebouterie, and Raphaél, to the Place des Tables, with a stone

pinnacle fountain in the centre. From this ascend by the R. des Tables

to the flight of 40 steps, leading up to the tetrastyle portico in front

of the church. Forty-one more steps lead up through this portico to the

portal of the west façade of the church, built up in the 18th cent., and

having against it an altar to Mary. The oblong flat stone at the base of

the table of the altar belonged to a dolmen which stood on this hill

from the earliest times, and is called the “Pierre aux fièvres,” from

its once supposed power of curing of fever those who lay upon it.

From this altar a flight of 27 steps ascends to the left, to the

cloisters, while the flight to the right of 32 steps ascends to one of

the two south side entrances into the church. The other south side

entrance, called the Porte du Fort, 12th cent., presents an

extraordinary composition of the florid Byzantine style. On one side of

it is the square belfry in 5 stages, commenced in the 11th cent., on the

other is the bishop’s palace, and in front a small terrace. At the north

side of the church is the Porte St. Jean, 12th cent., preceded by an

arch of 28 ft. span. The cloisters are in the form of an oblong square,

with 9 arches on the long sides, and five on the short, supported on

square piers with attached colonnettes. The south side is the earliest,

beginning of the 10th cent., and the western the most recent. The

church, built in 550, received a succession of alterations up to 1427,

when it was injured by an earthquake. In 1846 it was repaired and

restored. The interior consists of eight square compartments, each,

excepting the 7th, covered with a dome resting on four massive piers.

Above the 7th rises an octagonal lantern tower. Under it is the high

altar, with a replica of the miracle-working image,* brought from Cairo in 1251, and

presented to the church of Le Puy by Saint Louis in 1254, but destroyed

in the Revolution of 1793, when, according to the marble tablet on the

pier of this compartment, 20 priests of the diocese were

executed at the same time by the same party. On the south wall a large

picture represents a numerous concourse of church and civic dignitaries

carrying in procession the original image to make it stay the plague,

which raged in Le Puy in 1660. The picture opposite represents the

Consuls of Le Puy, attired in red, thanking the image for its

protection. In the sacristy is the Théodulfe Bible, 9th cent. Near the

north portal is the baptistery of St. Jean, built in the 4th

cent, on the foundations of a Roman edifice.

The original image was of cedar, with the face, both of it and of the

child, painted black. It was 2 ft. 3 in. high, and weighed 25 lbs. The

form was rudely carved, stiff and Egyptian like, and the members of both

were swathed in two plies of linen.

Le Puy: Notre Dame de France.

From Saint Jean commences the ascent of the Rocher Corneille,

a mass of volcanic breccia, which forms the summit of Mount Podium.

On the top is the image of Notre Dame de France, 433 ft. above

the Hôtel de Ville, and 2478 ft. above the sea. It was unveiled on the

27th September 1860, was made from 213 cannons taken at Sebastopol, is

52½ ft. high, and weighs 2165 cwt. The foot is 6 ft. long, the hands 5

ft., and the hair 22 ft. The circumference of the head of the child,

J. C., is 14 ft. In the interior of the image a spiral stair of 90

steps leads up to the shoulders, whence an iron ladder of 16 steps

extends to the crown of her head. From little openings in this colossal

figure are most enchanting views. From the orifice in her right side is

seen (2½ m. N.W.) the village of Polignac, likewise on a hill 2645

ft. above the sea, clustering round its old castle. Immediately below is

the Aiguilhe, and to the left, 1¼ m. S.E., Ours Mons.

On a projecting part of the rock is, in a kneeling posture, looking up

to Notre Dame de France, the figure of Bishop Morlhon, b. 1799,

d. 1861, one of the principal promoters of the statue. Bonnassieux

is the sculptor of both of them.

Aiguilhe.

Behind the Rocher Corneille rises the isolated volcanic rock called the

Aiguilhe, 265 ft. high,

518 ft. in circumference at the base, 45 at the top, and ascended by 266

steps. Fee, 5 sous. On the summit is the chapel of St. Michael,

commenced in 962 by Bishop Godescalk, and consecrated in 984. The

present building dates principally from the end of the 11th and the

beginning of the 12th cent.; restored and repaired in 1850. Originally

the interior of it as well as of the cathedral was covered with mural

paintings. The views are superb.

Near the foot of the rock, and adjoining the Mairie of Aiguilhe, is an

octagonal baptistery, 12th cent., called the Temple of Diana. Near the

post office, in the Boulevard St. Louis, is the lower part of a tower

which belonged to the town gate Pannessac. The church, at a little

distance below, is St. Laurent, 14th cent. In the chapel to the left of

the high altar is the grave and mausoleum of the chivalrous Duguesclin,

who died on the 17th July 1380, while besieging the fortress of

Châteauneuf-le-Randon, between Langogne and Mende.

Le Puy: Musée. Picture Gallery.

In a large new building in the public garden off the Place de Breuil is

the Musée, open

on Sundays and feast days from 2 to 5. Everything is distinctly

labelled. On the ground-floor in the hall to the left are architectural

relics from Roman buildings in and about Le Puy. The best fragments

belonged to the temple which stood on the site now occupied by the

baptistery of Saint Jean. In the hall to the

right is a miscellaneous collection of Egyptian, Celtic, and Roman

antiquities, mixed up with a few articles belonging to the Middle

Ages.

Upstairs is the Picture Gallery. In the centre room are

portraits of the most celebrated natives of Le Puy, and a very good copy

of part of the “Danse Macabre,” dance of death, in the church of

Chaise-Dieu. Among the portraits are Charles Crozatier, born 1795, died

at Paris 1853, the munificent contributor to the museum of this his

native town. In the right-hand hall the best paintings, chiefly

belonging to the Flemish school, are in the low row, such as Begyer,

d. 1664; Caravaggio; Coypel, d. 1707; Franck, d. 1616;

Heem, d. 1694; Lippi, d. 1469; Maes, d. 1693; Mieris,

1747; Mierveld, 1641; Poussin, 1695; Rigaud, 1743; Terburg, 1681; Tyr,

1868; Weenix, 1719. In the adjoining small room is a complete collection

of the minerals belonging to the Haute-Loire. In the left room among

other pictures are: Annunciation, Tintoretto, 1594; Mdlle. de Valois,

Mignard, 1695; Mary Stuart, F. Clouet, 1572; Henriette-Marie de

France, wife of Charles I. of England, Van der Werf, 1722;

Landscape, Hobbema, 1669; Concert, Teniers (vieux); Portrait of Girl,

J. B. Santerre, 1717. In the next room are specimens of the lace,

blond and guipure, worked by the females inhabiting the towns and

villages among the mountains of Ardèche and the Haute-Loire, of which

articles Le Puy is the great emporium. The specimens and sample books

are in cases. In the centre case are specimens from Alençon, Binche,

Brussels, Cevennes mountains, Malines, Russia, Valenciennes, and Venice;

the Corsage with lace trimming of the gown Marie Louise wore on the day

she was married to Napoleon I.; also some of her ribbons.

Ours Mons.

1¼ m. S.E. from Le Puy is Ours

Mons, 2463 ft. above the sea, and 180 ft. above the plain. The

prospect from the top is considered by Mr. Scrope most remarkable;

“exhibiting in one view a vast theatre of volcanic formation, in great

variety of aspect, containing igneous products of various natures,

belonging to different epochs.”

LE PUY TO LANGOGNE BY PRADELLES.

(Map, p. 46.)

Le Puy, 2045 ft., to Langogne, 2940 ft. above the sea,

26 m. S. by coach, along an admirably-constructed road, over a

high, cold, treeless tableland, whose culminating point, 3900 ft., is

about a mile south from the hamlet of La Sauvetat, 6 m. N. from

Pradelles. 8 m. from Le Puy is Montagnac, on the Cagne, 3123 ft.

From this hamlet a road diverges 8 m. S.W. to Cayres, 3727 ft.

above the sea, pop. 1450. _Inn:_ Du-Lac-du-Bouchet. A lace and

cheese-making village, about 1½ m. by a good road from the extinct

crater of Le

Bouchet, 231 ft. higher, than Cayres, now a lake of 222 acres

and 92 ft. deep. It is very similar to Lake Issarlès, near Beage (which see p. 85). After Montagnac the coach

arrives at Costaros, 3510 ft., 12 m. S., where the horses are

changed. Then Sauvetat, 16 m. from Le Puy, pop. 300, and afterwards

Pradelles, 3771 ft.,

pop. 2000, with two small inns, 21 m. from Le Puy and 5 m.

from Langogne. The coach stops at Langogne railway station, where the

omnibus of the Cheval Blanc

awaits passengers. Pradelles is 24½ m. S. from Le Monastier by St.

Paul-de-Tartas, and 2½ m. from Les Sallettes (see map, p. 46).

Pradelles

to Mayres, 18 m. S.E., char-à-banc, 20 to 25 frs., by a good but

a high and exposed road, passing Peyrebelle

(p. 95), La Narce, 8¾ m., pop. 900, the Col Chavade, 4170 ft.

above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche, whence the road descends

rapidly, passing above the hamlet of Astet. This is not a good entrance

into Ardèche.

From Le Puy a coach starts daily from near the post office for St.

Bonnet, Usson, and Craponne, pop. 4000, directly N. from Le Puy, and

12½ m. E. from Chaise-Dieu by stage-coach.

LE PUY TO LANGEAC BY ST. GEORGES.

(Map,

p. 46.)

For geological excursions the railway between Le Puy to Langeac by St. Georges d’Aurac

is very useful. The culminating point of the line, 3658 ft, is in the

tunnel between Darsac and Fix-St. Geneys. This railway crosses at right

angles the Velay mountains, full of extinct volcanoes, extending from

Chaise-Dieu to Pradelles.

Espaly. Borne. Darsac.

Le Puy to Langeac, 36½ m. W. by rail. The first part of the line

traverses a most picturesque country among great basaltic cliffs.

1 m. from Le Puy the train passes the village of Espaly, and by the face of basaltic columns

rising from the Borne and its little affluent the Riou-Pézeliou, in

whose bed zircons and blue sapphires have been found. On the opposite

side of the Borne is the great mass of basalt called the Croix de la

Paille, with a display of prisms in three tiers, called les orgues

d’Espaly. The village, pop. 2300, is built at the foot of a rock of

volcanic breccia crowned by the scanty ruins of a castle built in 1260

by Guillaume de la Roue, bishop of Puy.

8¾ m. from Puy is Borne, 2535

ft. above the sea, pop. 390. A ramble in the ravine of Borne forms

a pleasant and easy excursion from Le Puy. 5½ m. E. from this

station, or 3¼ m. W. from Le Puy, is Polignac, passed by the train.

The village, pop. 2500, with church of 11th cent., is at the foot of a

rock of basaltic breccia crowned by the imposing ruins of a fortress

dating from the 11th cent. A stair of 132 steps (ascent dangerous)

leads up to the terrace of the Keep, 14th cent., commanding an extensive

view.

13 m. W. from Le Puy is Darsac, 2914 ft. above the sea. A small hamlet,

with a restaurant, the station for Chaise-Dieu, 13¾ m. N.,

fare 2½ frs., and for Arlanc, 24¼ m. N., or 10½ m. beyond

Chaise-Dieu.

La Chaise-Dieu.

The coach first passes through Allègre, pop. 1700, a dirty little

village, 5 m. N, on the side of Mont de Bar, 3583 ft. above the

sea, with the ruins of a castle built in the 14th cent. Mont de Bar and

Mont du Bouchet are the best specimens of extinct volcanoes in the Velay

chain. From this the diligence, after having skirted for 8 m. the

high cold region of the Velay mountains, arrives at La Chaise-Dieu, 3576 ft.

above the sea, pop. 2000. _Inns:_ Lion d’Or; Centre; Nord.

A dirty, decaying village, in which its imposing church

participates. Robert, a scion of the ducal house of Aurillac, and

canon of St. Julien in Brioude, obtained permission from the canons of

N. D.

du Pay to build a small house and oratory in the wildest and most

inaccessible part of the forests on their domains, where he and his

companions might lead a more austere life than in their monastery at

Brioude. This house, built in 1043, by degrees attained the goodly

proportions of a convent, which the peasants called La Chaise-Dieu, or

Casa-Dei. Clement VI., formerly Roger de Beaufort, abbot of

Chaise-Dieu, born in the village, commenced, shortly after his elevation

to the papal throne, to build at his own expense a church on the site

formerly occupied by the oratory of St. Robert. The work was continued

and finished by his nephew, Gregory XI., in 1420, by whom are the façade

with the two short massive square towers, 128 ft. high, and the

horse-shoe staircase of 41 steps. The tower, 30 ft. square and 110 high,

attached to the S. point of the apse, was built by the abbot de Chanac

to protect the church and convent, which he surrounded with a wall. The

gateway, part of the wall, and part of the old convent, are just under

the tower. Adjoining the remains of the abbey buildings are the

cloisters, a parallelogram, 140 ft. by 77, of which only two sides

remain. The long side has nine low, wide, massive, mullioned and

traceried unglazed windows, and the short side four.

The interior of the church is 301 ft. long, surrounded by 22 tall plain

slender octagonal piers, from which springs the groining, which spreads

itself over the stone-vaulted roof. The nave is 44 ft. wide, and the

aisle on each side 15, all the three roofs being of the same height. The

church is lighted by long narrow pointed windows, one between each two

columns, excepting at the apsidal termination, where a triangular

projection affords space for three windows. The tracery has little

depth, and is of the simplest design. The choir, 131 ft. long, is

separated from the nave by an ugly rood-loft. It contains 144 carved

cedar-wood stalls, and above them on both sides 17 pieces of Arras

tapestry, 16th cent., from designs by Taddeo Gaddi. In the centre is the

mausoleum of Clement VI. His white marble effigy, with the hands

folded and the papal Triregnum on the head, reclines on an altar table

of black marble.

On the N. side of the screen of the choir, just behind the pulpit, is

the “Danse Macabre,” or dance of death, a favourite subject with

artiste from the 12th to the 14th cent. The ironic grin and jocund gait

of the skeleton death contrast vividly with the dismayed and demure

expression of the great and mighty kings, priests, and warriors, young

and old, gay and sedate, he marshals off, in the midst of their projects

and plans, to the dark silent grave. Under it is the sadly mutilated

mausoleum of Queen Edith of England, wife of the unfortunate Harold.

Near it is the more perfect mausoleum of the last abbot of La

Chaise-Dieu.

Arlanc. Ambert. Fix-St. Geneys.

La Chaise-Dieu to Vichy by Arlanc and Ambert.

10½ m. N. by coach from La Chaise-Dieu, 24¼ m. N. from Darsac, and

11¼ m. S. from Ambert-du-Puy, by a beautiful road, is Arlanc, pop. 4500, _Inn:_

H. des Princes, between the rivers Dore and Dolore,

consisting of the Bourg with the parish church and the Ville, composed

mostly of old houses. A great deal of lace and blond is made

here.

11¼ m. N. is the manufacturing town of Ambert, pop. 8000, 43 m. N. by rail from Vichy;

whence the ascent is made, 3 hrs., of the culminating point of the Forez

mountains, the Pierre-sur-Haute, 3882 ft. above the sea. 15 m. from

Ambert, and 11¾ m. S. from Thiers, is Olliergues, pop. 2000, on a

hill rising from the Dore. It contains an old bridge, some 13th cent.

houses, and the ruins of a castle which belonged to the family of the

Tour d’Auvergne. 13 m. farther N., or 8¾ m. S. from Thiers, is

Courpière, pop. 4000, on the Dore, with some old houses and the ruins of

the castle of Courte-Serre. 61 m. N. from Darsac, or 36¾ m. N.

from Ambert, is Thiers, south from Vichy. For Vichy see p. 358; Thiers, p. 367.

The next station west from Darsac by rail (see map,

p. 46) is Fix-St. Geneys, 18 m. from Le Puy, 3274

ft. above the sea, pop. 900. _Inn:_ H. des Voyageurs, situated

on a tableland above the valley of the Sioule, covered on one side with

firs. 2½ m. farther is the station for the hamlet La Chaud, 2950

ft. above the sea, on the Sioule. 7½ m. farther is Rougeac, with a

castle 1923 ft. above the sea.

St. Georges-d’Aurac. Monistrol.

The most westerly station on the line is St. Georges d’Aurac, 1872 ft. above

the sea, 86½ m. W. from St. Etienne, and 32 from Le Puy.

58½ m. N. by rail is Clermont, and 131 m. S. by rail is Nîmes

(see map, p. 26). Near the station is the

inn Lombardin. The village, pop. 500, is 2 m. S.E. Other 2 m.

E. is the château Chavagnac, the birthplace of General Lafayette.

5½ m. W. is Voute-Chilhac, pop. 800, most picturesquely situated on

a narrow peninsula formed by the Allier, opposite the mouth of the

Avesne. The church was built in the 15th cent. by Jean de Bourbon,

bishop of Le Puy. Passengers going north change carriages at the station

of St. Georges d’Aurac. 4½ m. S.W. from St. Georges, 90½ W. from

St. Etienne, and 36½ from Le Puy, is Langeac,

1690 ft., 63 m. S. from Clermont, and

127 m. N. from Nîmes. All the trains halt here. _Inns:_

H. Lombardin; Pascon. Their omnibuses await passengers. Langeac, on

the Allier, is a pleasant town near the station, situated in a vast

plain. The parish church dates from the 15th cent. To the N.E. of the

town, in the valley of Morange, is a coal-basin of 1450 acres. (Map, page 46.)

15 m. S. from Langeac is Monistrol-d’Allier, 2000 ft. above the sea, pop.

1200. The station is on the E. side, and the town on the W. side of the

river. Coach by a picturesque road to Le Puy, 17 m. N.E. by

St. Privat, 2930 ft., pop. 1600, on the stream Rouchoux, which runs in a

deep gully between high cliffs. A little way beyond the hamlet of

Chiers the road attains its culminating point, 3739 ft. above the sea.

10 m. from Monistrol is Bains, 3235 ft., pop. 1300, with a very old

church. 1¼ m. farther the road passes the picturesque rock of

Cordes, 3012 ft., and then descends to Le Puy by La Roche, 2895 ft., and

Mont Bonzon. Coach from Monistrol to Saugues, 6½ m. W.,

3116 ft., pop. 4000, on the side of a hill, rising from the beautiful

valley of the Margeride. In the neighbourhood is a monument

called the tomb of the “English general.” It consists of a square

vaulted roof of small stones resting on four round columns 13 ft. high

and 6⅜ ft. apart. It has no inscription, and bears a resemblance to the

mortuary chapel at Valence (see p. 44).

Le Pouzin. Privas.

LYONS

NÎMES

LE POUZIN, pop. 3000,

_Inn:_ H. Lion d’Or, on the Ouvèze, which here enters the

Rhône. The town has foundries and the remains of its old castle.

Junction with line to Privas, 13¼ m. W. Privas, pop. 8000. _Inns:_ Croix d’Or; Louvre.

On an eminence 1060 ft. above the sea, at the foot of Mt. Toulon, 838

ft. higher, and at the confluence of the Chazalon, the Mezayon, and the

Ouvèze. The town, looking well from a distance, consists chiefly of

narrow, crooked, steep streets, and dingy houses. From the promenade

called the Esplanade, planted with plane trees, is an excellent view of

the picturesque valley of the Ouvèze, and of the volcanic chain of the

Coiron, especially of Mount Combier. 1¼ m. from Privas, on the

plain of the Lai, is a house called the Logis du Roi, in which Louis

XIII. established his headquarters in 1629, when, with Cardinal

Richelieu, he besieged the Protestant inhabitants in the town, commanded

by the brave Montbrun.

From Privas, coach daily, 11 m. N. to Ollières, on the Eyrieux.

_Inn:_ H. du Pont, comfortable. This coach meets at Ollières

the coaches to La Voulte and Valence on the Rhône, and the coaches to Le

Cheilard and to St. Pierreville. The latter is the coach to take for the

Source of the Loire and Mont Mezenc (see pp. 84, 85). Coach also to

Aubenas, 18 m. S.E. (See next page, and map

p. 46.)

Rochemaure.

LYONS

NÎMES

ROCHEMAURE, pop.

1300, Auberge Gabarre. Suspension bridge across the Rhône. The modern

part of the village is built along the high road, but the old on the

steep slopes of the basalt rocks crowned by the ruins of the castle.

There are many ways up to the top; the best and most frequented

commences just opposite the “auberge,” traverses the centre of the

curious old stony village, passes on the right the chapel with the arms

of Ventadour and Soubise on the portal, then ascends by the battlemented

wall to some miserable habitations, among what was the seigneurial

manor, of which large portions still remain. Next to it, on a

needle-like peak of nearly horizontal columns of basalt, rises the Keep,

like a spear piercing the sky. A narrow path leading so far up will

be found round the N.W. corner. The views are superb, of the valley of

the Rhône on one side, and on the other of the Coiron mountains. These

ruins, which from below look slim and airy, are the remains of a massive

edifice constructed principally of basaltic prisms in the 12th cent. by

the family of Adhémar de Montheil, and reduced to its present condition

by order of Louis XIII.

A road up the gap on the N. side of the hill leads in a little more

than an hour to Mount Chenavari, 1668 ft., distinctly seen from the top

of the gap. On the summit is a tableland bordered with massive basaltic

columns. At Rochemaure the olive trees begin to appear.

Le Teil.

LYONS

NÎMES

95¾

76¼

LE TEIL, pop. 3200, with

some small inns. Omnibus awaits passengers for Montelimart, 3¼ m. E., on the other side of the

Rhône (p. 48). Branch line to Alais, 62¼ m. S.W., on the line

between Nîmes and Clermont-Ferrand. From Vogué, on this branch,

17½ m. S.W. from Le Teil, and 44¾ m. N.E. from Alais,

a smaller branch extends 12 m. N. to Nieigles-Prades. The

Nieigles-Prades line forms a convenient entrance into Ardèche (see maps,

pages 26, 46, and 56).

Aubenas. Vals.

Vogué, Aubenas, Vals, Neyrac, Thueyts, Mayres.

5 m. W. from Teil, on the branch line to Alais, is Aubignas (Alba Augusta), pop. 530, once an

important Roman station. 6¼ m. N. from Vogué is Aubenas, pop. 8000,

_Inn:_ H. Durand, on a hill covered with vines, olives, and

mulberry trees, rising 328 ft. above the Ardèche, and commanding an

extensive view of the valley of the river. On the highest part of the

town are the church and the fine old castle, now containing the college,

the hospital, and some other public institutions. Aubenas is the centre

of an important trade in raw silk, butter, and cheese. At Vesseaux,

a village to the north of Aubenas, excellent chestnuts are grown.

(Maps, pages 56 and 46.)

3¼ m. N. from Aubenas is La Begude, the station for Vals. Omnibus awaits

passengers. VALS, pop. 4000, on

the Volane, famous for its Mineral Waters. _Hotels:_ Des

Bains, on an eminence above the bathing establishment and the gardens.

In the same neighbourhood are the Hotels Parc; Juliette; Délicieuse;

Lyon; Orient. All the important springs are also in this part. In the

town are the Hotels Europe; Durand; Nord; Poste. The Pension in the

Hôtel des Bains is from 12 to 15 frs., in the others from 9 to 10 frs.

Season from 1st May to October. Vals is prettily situated on the Volane,

in a hollow among hills covered with vineyards and studded with mulberry

and chestnut trees. The springs, gardens, baths, and best hotels are all

at the eastern extremity. Near the H. du Parc is the intermittent

fountain, and from it, across the bridge, are the springs Vivaraises,

under a grotto; and, adjoining them, the spring Juliette, while a little

beyond is La Délicieuse. The springs Madeleine, St. Jean, Précieuse, and

the others, belonging to the Société Générale, are all farther up the

river, nearer the town, at the second bridge. None of them are so

pungent nor so agreeable to the palate as the Juliette and the

Délicieuse. The properties of all are much the same. They give tone to

the stomach, assist the action of the liver and kidneys, and remove

paralysis of the bladder. They are all cold, easily digested, and may be

drunk at any time. They contain bicarbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia,

lithia, iodine, iron, and some of them traces of the arseniate of soda,

and owe their pungency to the free carbonic acid gas.

Antraigues.

5 m. N. from Vals, or 9 m. from Aubenas and 16 m. from Privas, is

Antraigues, pop.

2000, situated on the side of three basaltic rocks, at whose base flow

three impetuous mountain torrents—the Bise, Mas, and Volane. From

the heights behind the town there is a magnificent view. In the

neighbourhood is the extinct crater, the Coupe d’Aizac, covered with a beautiful

reddish lava. _Inns:_ Brousse; Glaise.

Neyrac-les-Bains. Thueyts.

AUBENAS TO LANGOGNE BY MAYRES.

(Maps, pp. 56 and 46.)

Coach daily from Aubenas to Mayres, 18 m. W. It passes through

Pont-de-la-Baume, 945 ft., and by the eminence on which is Neyrac-les-Bains,

the Nereisaqua of the Romans. _Inns:_ H. des Bains;

H. Fournier. 2½ m. from Pont-de-la-Baume, 7 from Vals,

and 9½ from Aubenas. It is situated within the crater of Saint Léger,

containing 8 acidulous, alkaline, and chalybeate springs, temp. 81°

Fahr. From several fissures issues carbonic acid gas; from one place,

the Trou de la Poule, in sufficient quantity to kill birds and dogs in 2

or 3 minutes. In the neighbourhood is the volcano of Soulhiol. 2 m.

W., on the left bank of the Ardèche, at its confluence with the Médéric,

is Thueyts, pop. 2600,

_Inn:_ H. Burine, situated on a bed of lava from the crater of

Mont Gravenne, 2785 feet above the sea. Through this bed the Ardèche

has, in cutting a passage for itself, laid bare a grand display of

basaltic columns from 150 to 200 ft. high, extending nearly 2 m.

down the valley. To the W. of the Bourg are a bridge with two stages of

arches across the Médéric, called the Pont du Diable, and the falls of

the Gueule d’Enfer, 330 ft., which, unless in rainy weather, have very

little water. From this part commences the Pavé-des-Géants,

a tableland composed of granite and basalt of an average height of

214 ft. from the base, lined with vertical prisms. To the right, at the

extremity of this wall of rock, is the Echelle du Roi,

a staircase of 192 steps of broken prisms, within a natural shaft

or chimney, leading up to the top of the tableland, where there is a

good view. The best is from Mont Gravenne. The ascent requires about 1

hour.

The diligence now ascends the Ardèche to Mayres. About half-way, near

the hamlet of La Mothe, are the cliffs called the Rocher d’Abraham, 4358

ft. above the sea, of which the Bauzon is the continuation.

Mayres.

5½ m. from Thueyts is Mayres, pop. 2900. _Inns:_ France; Commerce.

1810 ft. above the sea, at the foot of the Croix de Bauzon, 5055 ft.

above the sea, and on the Ardèche, which here flows in a narrow gorge

between granite cliffs. The stage-coaches go no farther than Mayres. For

Langogne, 22 m. N.W., it is necessary to hire a vehicle. From

Mayres the road commences to ascend the Col, passing above the hamlet of

Astet at the foot of the Rocher d’Astet, 4925 ft. above the sea.

7 m. from Mayres is the summit of the pass or Col de la Chavade, 4170

ft. above the sea, near the source of the Ardèche. 2½ m. farther is

La Narce, pop. 900. A little beyond, or 26 m. from Aubenas and

14 from Langogne, is the roadside inn of Peyrebelle, 4195 ft. above the sea, where for 25

years the landlord and his wife robbed and murdered the travellers that

came to their house. Nearly 4 m. N. from Peyrebelle is Coucouron,

pop. 1400.

The road now attains the height of 4266 ft., where, on account of the

snow and wind, it becomes very dangerous in winter.

35 m. from Aubenas and 5 from Langogne is Pradelles, 3771 ft., 16 m. from Le Puy by coach

and 5 from Langogne (see p. 88, and maps, pages 26, 56 and 46).

Prades. Jaujac.

Prades, Pont-de-la-Baume, Jaujac, Montpezat,

St. Eulalie, and Source of the Loire.

For the main loopline, see map p. 56; for the

rest, map p. 46.

11¾ m. N. from Vogué station and 5½ from Aubenas station is the terminus

of this branch line, called Nieigles-Prades, as from it coaches take

passengers to both of these towns. Nieigles, pop. 1600, is situated on

an eminence rising from the N. side of the Ardèche. In the vicinity are

coal-pits and rows of basalt columns supporting terraces covered with

chestnut trees. On the south side of the Ardèche, and to the east of

Jaujac, is Prades, pop.

1200, on the Salindre, in the centre of an important coal-basin.

Near the railway terminus is the village of Pont-de-la-Baume,

pop. 900, _Inns:_ H. du Louvre, etc., 955 ft. above the sea,

at the confluence of the rivers Fontaulière and Alignon with the

Ardèche. One of the best headquarters for visiting the basalt rocks in

the neighbourhood, both from its own position and the facility afforded

here for going elsewhere, as the coaches for Vals, Mayers, Burzet,

Neyrac, Montpezat, and Jaujac pass through it.

3¾ m. from La Baume, or 7½ from Aubenas by coach, is Jaujac, the Jovis aqua of the Romans, pop.

2600. _Inn:_ Union. On an eminence above the Alignon, of which

nearly the whole of the right bank from Pont-de-la-Baume to Jaujac is

lined with countless basaltic prisms. From the town cross the bridge,

and at the mill descend to the path by the side of the river, where

there is an admirable view of the columns, which, however, are not

vertical. About ½ m. from the town is the Coupe de Jaujac, an

extinct volcano, which has burst through the coal formation of this

valley, bounded by mountains of granite and gneiss. It is ascended

easily in 20 minutes. At the foot of the crater, just where the path

leading to the top commences, is a gaseous chalybeate spring; not unlike

those of Vals.

Montpezat.

14 m. N.W. from Aubenas, or about 8 from Pont-de-la-Baume by diligence,

is Montpezat. The road

from Aubenas ascends by the Ardèche, which it crosses; La Baume at the

foot of the hill, on which are the ruins of the castle of Ventadour,

14th cent. Farther on, within a mile of Montpezat, are seen the ruins of

the castle of Pourcheyrolles, built in 1360 on a plateau of prisms 115

ft. high, over which flows the Pourseilles, an affluent of the

Fontaulière or Fontollière. Near the

suspension bridge across the Fontaulière is Mt. Gravenne, the best

specimen of an extinct volcano in the whole region. The toll-keeper from

the bridge can point out the path leading to the top. The bridge is

about 10 minutes’ walk from Montpezat.

Montpezat-sous-Bauzon, pop. 2600, on an eminence 1877 ft. above

the sea, rising from the Ardèche. _Inns:_ Europe; Poste. This is

the terminus of the diligences. The river Fontaulière has its source in

the crater of Mount La Vestide, the largest in the Vivarais. By the new

road La Vestide is 6½ m. N.W. from Montpezat. Coach to the base of

the peak and back, 10 frs. The peak is 325 ft. high from the base, but

the crater is nearly 900 ft. deep. By the old road, ascending by the

village of La Faud, La Vestide is only 4 m. distant.

MONTPEZAT TO LE PUY.

To go from Montpezat to Le Puy, 43 m. N.W., hire vehicle to Le Beage,

16 m. N.W., 20 to 25 frs., and from Le Beage to Le Monastier,

12 m., 10 frs. Diligence between Le Monastier and Le Puy. From

Montpezat the road ascends by the hamlet of Le Pal, 3888 ft., opposite

the extinct volcano, the Suc du Pal, 724 ft. higher, with 3 cones. North

is Lake Ferrand, and still farther north, Lake Bauzon, 4832 ft. above

the sea. After the hamlet of Le Pal the road passes the hamlet of

Rioutort, crosses the river Padelle, and arrives at the village of

Usclades, 9 m. N. from Montpezat, pop. 600, whence a winding road

ascends to Le Beage, 6¼ m. N. (see

p. 84).

Sainte Eulalie.

From Montpezat a road extends 13 m. N. to the source of the Loire by

Rioutort and Sainte Eulalie. Sainte Eulalie, pop. 650, _Inn:_ Faure, in

a little valley on the left bank of the Loire, about 2 m. S. from

the road between Lachamp-Raphaél and Le Beage. The large peak seen in

the distance is the Gerbier-de-Joncs, at the foot of which is the source

of the Loire. To go to it, from the main road walk down to the one-arch

bridge which crosses the still infant Loire, and walk up the path by the

side of the stream (see p. 84, and maps pp.

46 and 85).

Ruoms. Largentière.

Ruoms, Largentière, Vallon, Pont d’Arc.

See map, page 56.

25½ m. S.W. from Teil, 8 m. S.W. from Vogué, and 36½ m. N.E. of

Alais, is Ruoms. Station for

Largentière, 9 m. N., 1¼ fr. For Joyeuse, 8 m. W., and for

Vallon, 6¼ m. S. Largentière, pop. 3000. _Hotels:_ Europe;

France. Coaches to Joyeuse, Les Vans, and St. Ambroix. St. Ambroix, pop.

5000, on the Cèze, H. Luxembourg, is a town with silk-mills and

glass-works. Near Ambroix is Robiac, station for Besseges, with

important coal-fields. Largentière, or properly L’Argentière, situated

in the ravine of the Ligne, derives its name from the argentiferous

mines in the neighbourhood. On the tableland behind the

Palais-de-Justice is the picturesque village of Chassiers, pop. 1300.

Joyeuse, pop. 2300. _Inns:_ H. Nord; Europe. Situated with its

suburb, Rosières, on the Baume. The town has part

of its ancient ramparts, and the castle which belonged to the Sires de

Joyeuse. In the church the chapel to the right of the choir contains an

Annunciation, with the arms of the family of Joyeuse.

The town of Ruoms, pop. 1300, has an interesting church, and a

considerable part of its old walls, towers, and gates.

Pont d’Arc.

VALLON TO THE PONT D’ARC.

(Map, p. 56.)

One hour from Ruoms station by omnibus is Vallon, pop. 2500. _Inns:_ *H. du Louvre;

Luxembourg; Temple Protestant. From Vallon the Pont d’Arc is 75 minutes distant by the stony

road over the hill, which, as far as the shoulder of the last ridge, is

also the road to the caves. A boat from Vallon to the Pont costs 10

frs.; to St. Martin it costs 35 frs., time 7 hrs. St. Martin is

3 m. from the railway station of St. Just,

on the railway on the west side of the Rhône (see p. 98). The

landlord of the Louvre can procure either a guide for the Pont,

2 frs., or for the caves, 5 frs., or the boatman for sailing

down the Ardèche. The Pont d’Arc is a natural bridge across the Ardèche,

composed of a calcareous rock, pierced with a span of 180 ft., through

which the river flows majestically. The soffit of the arch is 100 ft.

high, but the total height of the parapet is 230 ft., and 48 thick.

There are several rocks similar to this in France, but this one is

unrivalled in size, and in the beauty and grandeur of the surrounding

scenery. A lovely little plain, covered with vines, peach and

mulberry trees, is enclosed by the circle of vertical cliffs 500 ft.

high, which at one part extend over the river. In these cliffs are great

stalactite caves, approached by iron ladders from the top. One of them

is 490 ft. long and 100 ft. high. Vallon is famous for black truffles,

honey, and chestnuts. Pigs are used for finding the truffles. They are

better than dogs, because they are not so apt to be carried off by other

scents, as, for example, when a hare or a partridge suddenly appears

upon the scene. (See under Carpentras, page

54.)

LYONS

NÎMES

102½

69½

VIVIERS, pop. 3300.

_Inn:_ Louvre. The station and the new town are along the road

parallel to the Rhône: the old town with the cathedral is on the hill

behind. The streets are narrow, crooked, and steep. Here, along the W.

side of the Rhône, are lofty limestone cliffs, the quarrying and

preparing of which forms the principal industry of the place. Coach to

Aps, 8 m. N.W. on the Teil and Alais railway, passing St. Thomé,

pop. 600, at the junction of the Nègue with the Escoutay, which flows

through a deep ravine. Omnibus to Châteauneuf, on the opposite or east

side of the Rhône.

Bourg-St. Andeol. St. Just.

LYONS

NÎMES

109½

62½

BOURG-ST.

ANDEOL, pop. 4500. _Hotels:_ Luxembourg; Europe; their

omnibuses await passengers. Omnibus also for Pierrelatte (page 50), on the opposite or E. side of the Rhône. Le

Bourg has handsome quays alongside the Rhône, a church founded in

the

11th cent., and some houses of the 15th and 16th cents. About 350 yards

from the town, at the foot of a rock, rises the spring Fontaine de

Tournes, which, after turning various mills, flows into the Rhône. About

20 ft. above it is a much effaced sculpture in relief, representing the

sacrifice of a bull to the god Mithras.

LYONS

NÎMES

115

ST. JUST and St. Marcel

station, from which both towns are less than a mile, but in different

directions. 2½ m. from the village of St. Just is St. Martin, pop.

600, on the left or N. bank of the Ardèche. A ferry-boat crosses

the river. On the other side, a little farther up, is Aiguèze, pop.

450, with ruins of castle, and farther down St. Julien, but not seen

from St. Martin.

Boats are hired at St. Martin to visit the caves of St. Marcel, 4½ m.

up the river, or 3¾ m. W. from the village of St. Marcel. The price

depends upon the time the visitors make the boat wait. The cave consists

of a tunnel, 4¼ m. long, which here and there widens out into

spacious lofty caverns hung with stalactites. Some parts are very steep,

slippery, and fatiguing. The visit requires from 6 to 7 hours, and

certainly none but ardent lovers of walking in dark caverns should

undertake the labour. The sail, however, is pleasant. The nearest hotels

are at Pont-Saint Esprit and at Bourg-St. Andéol.

Pont-St. Esprit.

LYONS

NÎMES

119

PONT-ST.

ESPRIT, pop. 5000. H. de l’Europe. Coach to La Croisière,

on the other or east side of the Rhône. (See for bridge and Croisière

page 50.) Station of the steamboat between Lyons

and Avignon. Pont-Saint Esprit, on the west side of the Rhône and on the

western Rhône railway, makes a convenient and comfortable resting-place,

with pleasant promenades by the side of the Rhône. Down from the bridge

are the church of St. Pierre, now abandoned, and St. Saturnin, built in

the 15th cent. Near it is the citadel, built between 1595 and 1620.

Within, down a steep stair of 36 steps, are the remains of a chapel

constructed in 1365, now a military storehouse. On the south side is a

beautifully-sculptured portal, supported on each side by an elegant

pinnacled buttress. The arch, 20 ft. span, is richly decorated. In the

Hôtel Dieu (infirmary) are a few specimens of old (faïences) pottery.

Carriage from the hotel to Valbonne (4½ m. S.W.) and back 15 frs.

At Valbonne is a beautifully-situated Chartreuse convent with about 30

inmates. The drive is pleasant (see map,

page 56).

Carriage also from the hotel to Saint Martin, on the Ardèche, 4½ m.

N.W., there and back 12 frs. (For St. Martin see above.)

7½ m. south from Pont-St. Esprit is Bagnols-sur-Cèze, pop. 5000.

H. du Louvre. Omnibus at station. A manufacturing town. Coach

to Uzès, 17 m. W.

LYONS

NÎMES

132½

39½

LAUDUN, pop. 2200, about 2½

m. west from the station, and 10 m. from Orange, is built on a hill

350 ft. high. The vineyards in the neighbourhood produce a good white

wine. Junction with branch to Alais, 35½ m. west, by Connaux, St.

Pons, Cavillargues, Seyne, Celas, and Mejannes; small and uninteresting

towns (see map, p. 26).

Roquemaure. Pont-d’Avignon.

LYONS

NÎMES

137½

34½

ROQUEMAURE, pop.

3100. _Inns:_ H. du Nord; H. du Midi. Omnibus at station.

Situated on the small branch of the Rhône which encircles the island of

Mémar, 1¼ m. long. The best part of this curious old town is in the

neighbourhood of the Hôtel du Midi, where are the public promenade with

large trees, the great embankment to protect the town from the invasions

of the Rhône, and the ruins of the old castle, of which the most

remarkable part is the square tower perched on the point of a great

rock. Orchards, vineyards, and mulberry groves surround the village.

Roquemaure, however, like all the other small towns on the Rhône, has a

dingy and untidy appearance. Clement V., first Pope of Avignon,

died here in 1314. 5 m. W. is Taval, pop. 2200, where a good wine

is made.

LYONS

NÎMES

144¾

27¼

PONT-D’AVIGNON,

station on the west side of the Rhône for Avignon (p. 63). Omnibuses from the hotels await

passengers. The omnibus between Avignon and Villeneuve passes the

station every hour. Tram every ¼ between the station and Avignon.

7 m. S. from the Pont-d’Avignon is Aramon, pop. 2800, on the Rhône,

at a considerable distance from its station. 3¾ m. farther is

Thezièrs, pop. 650, with the church of St. Amans, 11th cent., and the

ruins of a castle. (Map, page 66.)

LYONS

NÎMES

159¾

12¼

REMOULINS, pop. 1400,

with ruins of a castle. From Remoulins branch to Uzès, 12½ m. N.W.

On this line, 3¼ m. from Remoulins and 9¼ from Uzès, is

Pont-du-Gard station, on an eminence, whence walk down to the bridge.

(For description and directions see pp. 64 and 104, and map page 66.)

Uzès.

UZÈS, pop. 5600, _Inn_

Bechard: on an eminence surrounded by picturesque calcareous rocks. From

the inn walk past the church St. Etienne, then turn to the left, and

having gone down the avenue ascend the double stair leading up to the

beautiful terrace, on which, to the left, stands the Cathedral, and to

the right, projecting from the

100

balustrade, the little house with about 9 yards of frontage, in which

Racine resided with his uncle, a canon of the cathedral. Below, in

the deep narrow valley, is the stream Eure, which once supplied the

Roman aqueduct at Nîmes. At the S.W. corner of the church rises from a

square basement a circular campanile, 12th cent., in six stages, of

which five are composed of eight blind round arches, each pierced by

twin open arches resting on an impost column. On the top is a low tiled

roof, partly hidden by an embrasure-like parapet. On the north side of

the church is the bishop’s palace, now the Sous-Préfecture, and the seat

of the tribunal. Looking from the top of the stairs towards the town the

most prominent objects are the large dungeon-tower of the castle, with

turrets on three of the corners; the Tour Carrée de l’Horloge,

surmounted by an iron grating and a bell; and the Tour de Prison. The

octagonal tower, crowned with an image of the Virgin, rises from the

École des Frères, and the low square tower from the church of St.

Etienne. At the other end of the promenade is the bronze statue by Duret

of Admiral Comte de Brueys, né à Uzès le 11 Fevrier 1753. Mort à Aboukir

(battle of the Nile) le 2 Aout 1798. Now walk up the street to the

Marché au Blé, with a pretty bronze fountain opposite the Mairie and

Post Office. Behind the Mairie is the entrance to the castle called Le

Duché, which has for centuries belonged to the family of Crussol, Ducs

d’Uzès. Fee for a party 1 fr. On entering, to the right is the Tour

de la Chapelle, 13th cent., restored; to the left, the dungeon tower,

11th cent., ascended by 248 steps, commanding an extensive prospect; and

in front the façade, 16th cent., by P. Delorme. The ground-floor of

the “Tour de la Chapelle” contains the family vaults. Over the tombs is

a large crucifix made in England; the figure is of bronze and the cross

of copper. Above is the chapel. Of the house the best part is the stair,

vaulted throughout and covered with sculptured stone panels. The best

wines in the department are grown in the neighbourhood of Uzès. Besides

the railway, Uzès is connected by a good diligence with Bagnols,

17 m. E. on the railway of the west side of the Rhône, 19 m.

N. from the Pont d’Avignon, and 7½ m. S. from Pont-St. Esprit.

Sernhac-Lédenon.

After Remoulins the train halts at the station Sernhac-Lédenon.

Lédenon, pop. 700, is about 2 m. W. from the station, and

Sernhac, pop. 1200, about the same distance E. 7 m. from

Nîmes is the St. Gervasy-Bezouce station, and 2½ m. nearer,

Marguerittes, pop. 2000, with a handsome modern church, and in the

cemetery the ruins of the chapel of St. Gilles, 12th cent., seen from

railway.

101

Nîmes.

opp. 101

plan of Nîmes

172 m. S.W. from Lyons, 27½ m. S.W. from Avignon, 31 m. N.E.

from Montpellier by Gallargues, 17 m. W. from Tarascon, 80 m.

N.W. from Marseilles, and 450 m. S.E. from Paris by

Clermont-Ferrand, is

NÎMES,

population 64,000, on the Vistre, 150 feet above the sea.

A flight of steps as at Tarascon leads from the town up to the

station. At the foot of these steps is the Hôtel des Arts, pretty

comfortable room 2 frs., dinner with wine 3 frs. The trams

start from in front of the house. In the town are: On the Esplanade, the

H. Luxembourg, the most expensive. By the side of it, fronting a

garden, the H. du Midi or Durand, from 9 to 12 frs. Fronting the

amphitheatre the Cheval Blanc, commercial, 8 to 10 frs. Opposite the

Maison Carrée, the H. Manivet, 9 to 12 frs., the most conveniently

situated for visiting the sights. Their omnibuses await passengers at

the foot of the station stair. Post Office, No. 4 B. du Grand Cours,

between St. Baudine and the Public Gardens. Telegraph Office in the

Place de la Salamandre, a small “Place” off the B. des Calquières.

Temple Protestant, the Porte d’Auguste, and the handsome new church of

St. Baudine, with its two elegant spires, are at the north end of the B.

des Calquières, beyond the Esplanade.

_Sights._—The Amphitheatre, the Maison Carrée, and the

Roman Baths. _Cab Stands_ are found at the station, at the

Amphitheatre, and at the Maison Carrée. Cab carrying 4, 2 frs. per

hour.

A straight, wide, and handsome avenue extends from the station to the

Esplanade; having in the centre a large fountain with four marble

colossal statues by Pradier round the base, representing the Rhône, the

Gardon, and the fountain nymphs of Nemausa and Ura. On the top of the

pedestal is a larger statue, also by Pradier, representing Nîmes, with

its face towards the station. Behind it are the Palais de Justice and

the Amphitheatre, and to the left the church of St. Perpetua.

Nîmes: Amphitheatre.

The great sight in Nîmes is the Roman Amphitheatre, the most perfect

extant. In form it is elliptical, of which the great axis measures 437

ft., and the lesser 433 ft., and the height 70 ft. Around the building

are two tiers of arcades, each tier having 60 arches, and all the arches

being separated from each other by a Roman Doric column. Above runs an

attic, from which project the consoles on which the beams that sustained

the awning rested. Within each arcade, on the ground-floor and on the

upper story, runs a corridor round the building, the upper one being

roofed with stone slabs 18 ft. long, reaching

102

from side to side. There were four entrances, one facing each of the

cardinal points of the compass. The interior contained 32 rows of seats

in 4 zones, capable of accommodating from 18,000 to 20,000 spectators.

The lowest zone corresponded to the dress circle, the others to the

galleries. The present entrance is from the western side, fee 50 c.,

opposite No. 8 Place des Arènes. The stair that leads up to the top is

under the fifth arch west. No description can express the sensation

experienced from contemplating this vast Roman structure from the

highest tier or from the edge of the outside wall. At the same time it

must be remembered that there are no railings, and that an inadvertent

step might have serious consequences. The date of the building is

uncertain. Titus, Adrian, and Antoninus Pius have each been conjectured

to have been the founder. The Visigoths converted it into a fortress,

the Castrum Arenarum, occupied by the Saracens at the beginning of the

8th cent., till driven from France by the armies Charles of Martel; died

in 715.

On the N. side of the amphitheatre is the Boulevard St. Antoine,

with, on the left hand or W. side, the Palais des Beaux Arts, including

the Public Library, containing 60,000 vols.; the Archæological Museum,

containing many interesting articles, chiefly Roman, found in the

neighbourhood; and the Picture Gallery, containing, among other

pictures, a Magdalene by Guido; A Holy Family, a Head of

John the Baptist, and a portrait of himself, by Titian; A Head of a

Girl and a Return from Hunting, by Rubens; Portraits of Vanloo and of

his mother, by himself; Cromwell regarding Charles I. laid out in

his coffin, by Paul Delaroche, his chef d’œuvre; “Nero and a Sorceress

experimenting on a slave with the poison they were preparing for

Britannicus,” by Javier Sigalon; An old woman, by Greuze; also works by

Gérard Dow, Claude Lorrain, Metzu, Ostade, Paul Potter, Ruysdael, Van

den Welde, and Wouvermans.

At the N. end of this Boulevard is the church of St. Paul, with

frescoes on gold and blue grounds by H. and P. Flandrin.

Nîmes: La Maison Carrée. Cathedral.

Beyond are the Theatre and the Bourse, and opposite them La Maison

Carrée, a beautiful specimen of a Roman temple, probably

part of the Forum, with which it was connected by colonnades extending

east and west. It is 75 ft. long, 39 wide, and 39 high, and is supposed

to have been erected in the time of Antoninus Pius. It stands on a

platform, and is encompassed by a quadrilateral peristyle of 30

Roman-Corinthian columns surmounted by a plain architrave, scroll

frieze, sculptured dentils, and a fluted cornice. All the columns are

attached,

103

excepting the ten which support the pediment. In the area within the

railing are mutilated statues and fragments of Roman columns.

Eastward, in the centre of the old town, is the Cathedral St. Castor, built in

the 11th cent., but nearly rebuilt in subsequent times. The most

venerable portion is the façade, constructed of large blocks of stone.

A delicately-cut frieze, representing scenes from Genesis, extends

under the roof. The eaves of the pediment are supported by brackets with

acanthus leaves. The table of the third altar, right hand, in the

interior, is sculptured in much the same style as the exterior

frieze.

Nîmes: Roman Baths. Tourmagne. Fort.

N.W. from the Maison Carrée is the Public Garden, adorned with vases

and statues among shrubs and flowers, overshadowed by tall elm and plane

trees. To the left are the remains of a temple or fane (called the

temple of Diana), dedicated to the Nymphs, built b.c. 24, of huge carefully-hewn blocks of sandstone,

and reduced to its present state in 1577. The little of the ornamental

work that remains is very much mutilated. Opposite the temple, protected

from the troublesome winds of Nîmes, are the Roman Baths,

about 12 ft. below the level of the gardens, the vaulting being

supported on small columns, over which rise open stone balustrades.

Adjoining is the copious spring that supplies them, as placid but

somewhat larger than the Fontaine of Vaucluse

(p. 65).

From the fountain a road leads up the wooded slopes of Mont Cavalier

to an octagonal structure called the Tourmagne, 90 ft. high, erected before the

Roman invasion, and supposed to have been a tomb. It was originally

filled with rubble, which was excavated in the 16th cent. in search of

treasure. The winding staircase of 140 steps was added in 1843. The view

from the top is extensive. Fee, 30 cents.

Eastward from the Tourmagne is the Fort, built by Louis XIV., now the town prison.

On the western side of the fort are the remains of the reservoir,

_castellum divisorium_, which received the water brought by the

canal from the aqueduct of the Pont-du-Gard. This canal still brings

water to the town reservoir, on the opposite or east side of the

fort.

In the year of Rome 788 a strong wall was built round Nîmes, 7 ft.

high, pierced with 10 gates; of which there still remain two; the Porte

d’Auguste, originally fronting the road to Rome, now at the E. end of

the Temple Protestant, and the Porte de France at the extremity of the

Rue Carrètérie. (See plan.)

The ancient name of Nîmes is Nemausus, one of the cities of Gallia

104

Narbonensis, and the capital of the Volcæ Arecomici. As early as the

reign of Augustus it was a “colonia,” and possessed in the days of

Strabo the “Jus Latii,” and therefore was independent of the

Roman governors. Its most notable product then was cheese, which was

exported to Rome; now it is raw silk, for which it is the principal

emporium in the south of France. The wines of Nîmes are in repute in

Paris, particularly the Costière and the St. Gilles, called also Vin de

Remède. Both deteriorate after the sixth year in bottle. Nicot, who

introduced tobacco into France, and Guizot, the minister of Louis

Philippe, were born at Nîmes.

Pont-du-Gard.

13½ miles from Nîmes is the Pont-du-Gard, built by the Romans in the reign

of Augustus as part of the aqueduct, 25 m. long, which, from the

neighbourhood of Uzès (page 99), brought the

waters of the Eure and Airan to the reservoir beside the fort, of which

only vestiges now remain. This “Pont,” which spans the valley or banks

of the river Gardon, consists of three rows of arches, whose total

height above the bed of the river is 156 ft. The two lower stories are

formed of hewn stones, placed together without the aid of any cement;

but the mason work underneath the channel of the third or top story is

of rough stones cemented, by which all filtration was prevented. The

first or lowest row consists of six arches, with a span of 60 ft. each,

except the largest, which has 75 ft. The second row consists of eleven

arches of the same dimensions as the first, and the third of 35 arches

of 15 ft. span. A stair from the right bank of the river leads up

to the watercourse above the topmost tier of arches. In the striking

boldness of its design this bridge exhibits a decided improvement and

superiority over all the other Roman aqueducts. The arches are wider,

and the piers in proportion lighter, and had the same principle been

extended so as to have formed it of one single row from top to bottom,

it would have equalled in the skill and disposition of its materials the

more judicious and more elegant structures of modern times (see Roquefavour, p. 77). Take ticket to

Pont-du-Gard Station. But if with luggage, and on the way to Avignon,

take ticket to Remoulins, where leave the luggage, and take another

ticket to the Pont-du-Gard, which having visited, walk back to Remoulins

station, where take ticket for Pont Avignon (see under Avignon, p. 64).

79 m. S.E. from Nîmes by rail is Marseilles (p. 111), passing

Tarascon, 17 m. (p. 66), and Arles, 25 m. (p. 68).

105

Valleraugue.

NÎMES TO MILLAU BY VIGAN.

See Map, p. 26.

58 m. N.W. by rail from Nîmes is Vigan, whence coach 43 m. W., 9 hrs., to Millau,

on the line to Paris by Rodez. There are no towns of importance on this

line, though some parts, especially towards Vigan, are very picturesque.

27 m. from Vigan, and 31 from Nîmes, is Quissac, pop. 1800,

junction with line to Lezan, 9 m. N., and thence 4½ m. E. to

Mas des Gard, on the Nîmes and Alais line. 9 m. W. from Lezan is

St. Hippolyte-Le-Fort, pop. 4500, on the sluggish Vidourle. From this

the line goes westward by La Cadière to Ganges, 9½ m. from Vigan,

on the Hérault, 595 ft. above the sea, pop. 5000, H. Croix Blanche,

omnibus at station. The most pleasant town on the line. 2½ m.

farther is Jumène, 682 ft. above the sea, pop. 3000, with coal and iron

mines. 4 m. from Vigan, at Le Pont, 666 ft. above the sea, the line

crosses the Hérault, and entering the picturesque valley of the Arre

follows the course of that river to Vigan, pop. 6000. _Inns:_

Voyageurs; Cheval Blanc; both in the “Place,” near the statue of the

Chevalier d’Assas, born at Vigan in 1733, and “Mort glorieusement à

Clastercamp à 27 ans.” Vigan on the Arre, an affluent of the Hérault, is

860 ft. above the sea, in a hollow between steep mountains, with

terraces of vineyards, olive, mulberry, fig, and chestnut trees to

nearly their summits. The town consists of narrow, crooked, badly-paved

streets. The hospital was founded in 1190. In the promenade near the

post office are some old chestnut trees, disfigured with knots. In the

neighbourhood are several coal-pits, worked, however, with difficulty,

on account of the water they contain. Nearly a mile westward is the

Fontaine Isis, the source of the water-supply of the town. Beside it are

the cold sulphureous springs of Cauvalat.

Valleraugue.

Coach daily to Valleraugue, _Inn:_ Aresque, 14 m.

N., in a very picturesque region, on the Hérault, in a deep wooded

valley between the Aigoual mountains towards the N., and the Espéron

mountains towards the S. The principal source of the Hérault is a

little higher, towards the W., at Séreyrède. From Valleraugue the ascent

is made in about 2½ hours of Mt. Aulas, 4665 ft. above the sea, the

culminating point of the Espéron, commanding a magnificent view. The

source of the Dourbie is just a little to the S. of Valleraugue, and of

the Tarn to the N., but on the other side of the Aigoual. Excellent

fishing, botanising, and geologising in this neighbourhood.

Larzac.

Le Vigan to

Millau, 43 m. W. by diligence, 9 hrs. The first village the

coach passes is Molières, on a hill above the road, with coal-mines.

From this the road ascends to the villages of Esparron, 5½ m., and Arre,

6¼ m., from Vigan. A little higher up the coach leaves by a

tunnel the valley of the Arre, and enters that of the Vis, with the

village Alzon, 12½ m. from Vigan, pop. 900. _Inn:_ the

Souterraine, the best on the road. After a pretty steep ascent of

7 m. the coach arrives at Sauclières, pop. 2200, _Inn:_

H. du Nord, producing excellent

106

pork, cheese, and potatoes. The coach from this ascends the southern

side of the Lenglas mountains, covered with vineyards, olive and

mulberry trees, and farther up forests of chestnut trees. From the other

side of the ridge it descends to the valley of the Dourbie, in which is

St. Jean du Bruel, pop. 2000, _Inn:_ Commerce, 23 m. from

Vigan and 20 from Millau. The coach having traversed the valley of the

Dourbie, full of chestnut trees, reaches Nant, pop. 2000, a poor

village, on an eminence, 16 m. from Millau. Shortly afterwards the

diligence crosses the monotonous tableland of Larzac, 2790 ft. above the sea, and arrives at the

village of La Cavalerie, with some small dolmens. 7 m. W. is

Millau, on the line to Paris by Rodez.

The Riviera: Itineraries

The Riviera: Maps

The Riviera: Text

General Index

ITINERARY

(pages 107–280)

THE RIVIERA.

The Riviera. Hotels, productions,

climate

107

Marseilles. Hotels, trams, sights,

excursions

111

MARSEILLES to MENTON.

The French Riviera

122

Marseilles to Toulon, passing several pretty

little towns, of which the most important is La

Seyne (p. 123). From Toulon omnibuses and diligences run to the

neighbouring villages and to the more distant towns in the interior. The

most start from the Place d’Italie

(pp. 124 and 129).

Toulon to Dardenne from the “Place” to the W.

of the Place Puget (p. 128), to

Hyères from the Place Puget (pp. 124, 133), Cap Brun and Ste. Marguerite from the Place d’Italie (p. 128), to Le Pradet from the Place d’Italie (p. 128).

Toulon to Meounes and Brignoles by

Belgentier, by diligence. As far as Meounes the road traverses a

picturesque country (p. 129), to Collobrières by La Crau and Pierrefeu

(p. 130).

Steamer to La Seyne (pp. 124, 127), to St. Mandrier (p. 127), to the Iles d’Hyères or d’Or (pp. 124, 131).

The Iles d’Or. Porquerolles,

Port-Cros, Ile du Levant

131

Toulon to Hyères

132

Hyères. Hotels, cabs, drives,

stage-coaches, excursions, productions, climate

133

Hyères to Les Salins, La Plage and the peninsula of Giens (p. 140); to Carqueyranne by Pomponiana (p. 141); to Bormes and Lavandou (p. 142); by coach to St. Tropez (p. 134); whence steamer to St. Raphael (p. 147); or coach to Le Luc (p. 144).

La Pauline. Diligence and train to

Hyères

142

Carnoules. Carnoules to Gardanne by

rail, passing Brignoles and Ste. Maximin

142

Le Luc. Le Luc to St. Tropez by coach,

across the Maure mountains

144

Les Arcs to Draguignan by rail. From Draguignan diligences

start to Aups, Barjols, Fayence, Lorgues and Salernes, and correspond at

these towns with other diligences

145

Cannes to Auribeau, (p. 156), to Cannet,

(p. 154), to Cap d’Antibes

(p. 154), to Castelaras (p. 156),

to Croisette (p. 154), to Croix des Gardes (p. 155), to Estérel (p. 155), to Grasse

(p. 160), to the Iles de Lerins

(p. 156), to Mougins (p. 156), to

Napoule and Theoule

(p. 155), to Pégomas (p. 156), to

St. Cassien (p. 155), to Vallauris by the Golfe de Jouan and Californie (p. 152).

Grasse to Cagnes by Le Bar,

the Pont-du-Loup and Vence (p. 163), to Digne by St. Vallier and Castellane (p. 165), Digne to Riez, Gréoulx, Volx

and Manosque (p. 166).

Nice to St. Martin Lantosque by

coach, and thence to Cuneo by the Col di Finestra

180

Nice to Puget-Theniers and

Saint Sauveur by coach. From St. Sauveur an

excellent road by the side of the Tinée ascends to St. Etienne; whence bridle-road E. to Vinadio (map, p. 165).

182

Nice to Cuneo by the tunnel of

the Col di Tenda

182

Savona to Turin by Carru,

Bra, Cavallermaggiore and Moncalieri, 90¾ miles N.

183

Beaulieu to Port St. Jean and the Lighthouse—a

pleasant walk

185

Monte Carlo to Nice by the coast-road

189

Monaco to La

Turbie and the Tête de Chien

191

MENTON to GENOA—the

western part of the Italian Riviera, called also the Riviera di Ponente

200

Bordighera, up the valley of the Nervia, to Pigna

201

San

Remo to Monte Bignone

205

GENOA to PISA and

LEGHORN—the eastern Italian Riviera, or the Riviera di Levante

219

Avenza to Carrara by rail—a very

easy and interesting excursion

222

Pisa to

Florence by Pontedera and Empoli (map,

p. 199)

227

Pisa to

Florence by Lucca, Pistoja and Prato

227

Lucca to the Baths

of Lucca

230

Florence to Vallombrosa

277

Genoa to

Turin by Alessandria—a very interesting railway journey

279

END OF THE RIVIERA.

MAPS AND PLANS

(pages 107–280)

page

Cannes, Environs of

155

Showing the drives around Cannes and Antibes.

Cannes, Plan of

149

Corniche Road

185

Showing the course of the upper Corniche Road from Nice to Menton, as

well as that of the lower and perhaps more beautiful road between Nice

and Monte-Carlo, extending along the coast, nearly parallel to the

railway.

This map contains also the Environs of Nice, Monaco, and

Menton.

Estérel Mountains, or Frejus and St. Raphael to Cannes

146

Florence, Plan of

234

The most beautiful walk or drive is by the Porta Romana up to the Piazza

Michelangiolo.

Galleria degli Uffizi

237

The Florence Picture Gallery. Contained in two vast edifices on both

sides of the Arno; united by long corridors, which from the Uffizi

straggle down to the river, cross the bridge, and reach the Pitti Palace

by the upper story of the houses bordering the Via Guicciardini.

Genoa, Plan of

214

Hyères, Environs of

129

As the excursions from Hyères and Toulon are nearly the same, the

environs of both towns are given on the same map.

Italian Riviera, or the Riviera from Ventimiglia to Leghorn

199

Called also the Riviera di Ponente and the Riviera di Levante. The

French Riviera is given on the map of the “Rhône and Savoy,” and parts

on a larger scale on the maps of the “Corniche Road” “Marseilles to

Cannes,” and the “Durance to the Var and San Remo.”

Leghorn, Plan of

226

Marseilles, Plan of

113

Marseilles to Cannes

123

This map shows the position of the towns and villages on the coast and

in the interior, the roads between them and the Marseilles canal; which,

from the Durance, enters the sea at Cape Croisette. At the southern side

are given the “Iles d’Or,” called also the “Islands of Hyères,” of which

the largest is Porquerolles.

Nice, Plan of

171

Pisa, Plan of

224

The object of this plan is to enable tourists to find their way unaided

to the Leaning Tower, the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and the Campo Santo

or Cemetery. The frescoes on the walls of the Cemetery require the

cultivated talent of an artist to appreciate. Those who have to remain

over the night should take one of the hotels close to the station.

Savona to Rapallo

211

Illustrating the position of the pleasant winter stations of Arenzano,

Pegli, Sestri-Ponente, Nervi, Santa-Margherita-Ligure and Rapallo.

The Durance to the Var and San Remo

163

This map shows principally the position of the towns in the interior,

approached by diligence from Grasse (near Cannes), Draguignan, and Nice.

From Nice start the diligences which run between France and Italy.

The Italian Riviera or north-west Italy, including the

railways between Turin, Savona, Genoa and Florence

200

Thermometer, on the Centigrade and Fahrenheit scale

107

Toulon, Environs of

129

This map will be found very useful in the excursions by the small

steamers sailing from the port.

107

THE RIVIERA.

HOTELS, PRODUCTIONS, AND CLIMATE.

thermometer in Fahrenheit and Centigrade

The Riviera is a strip of land

extending 323 miles along the coast of the Mediterranean at the foot of

the Maritime Alps and their off-shoots. It is usually divided into two

portions—the Riviera from Hyères to Genoa, 203 miles long; and the

Riviera from Genoa to Leghorn, 112 miles long.

Temperature.

The milder and more frequented of the two is the former—the

Western Riviera—which has been subjected to most careful and

minute meteorological observations, and the various stations classified

according to their supposed degree of temperature. Yet in the whole 203

miles the difference may be said to be imperceptible. No one station in

all its parts is alike, the parts of each station differing more from

each other than the stations themselves. Yet each station has some

peculiarity which suits some people more than others; this peculiarity

being more often accidental and social—such as the people met

with, the lodgings, the general surroundings, and many other little

things which exercise a more powerful influence upon the health and

well-being of the mind and body than the mere fractional difference of

temperature. None of the protecting mountains of any of the stations are

sufficiently high, precipitous, and united to ward off the cold winds

when the higher mountains behind are covered with snow. All the ridges

have deep indentations through which the cold air, as well as the

streams, descends to the plain. Hence no station is exempt from cold

winds, and all delicate persons must ever be on their guard against

them—the more

108

sunny and beautiful the day, especially in early spring, the greater is

the danger. All the stations suffer also, more or less, from the famous

Mistral, a north-west wind, which in winter on the Riviera

feels like a north-west wind on a sunny summer day in Scotland. The mean

winter temperature (November, December, and January) of Hyères,

considered the coolest of the winter stations, is 47°.4 Fahr., and of

San Remo, considered the mildest, 48°.89 Fahr. The coldest months are

December and January. With February the temperature commences to rise

progressively. Throughout the entire region bright and dusty weather is

the rule, cloudy and wet weather the exception.

Vegetation.

“In December wild flowers are rare till after Christmas, when the

long-bracted orchid, the purple anemone, and the violet make their

appearance. These by the end of January have become abundant, and are

quickly followed in February by crocuses, primroses, and pretty blue

hepaticas. Meanwhile the star-anemones are springing up in the

olive-woods, with periwinkles and rich red anemones. In March the

hillsides are fragrant with thyme, lavender, and the Mediterranean

heath, to which April adds cistuses, helianthemums, convolvuli,

serapiases, and gladioli.” —_H. S. Roberton_. There is a

much less quantity of wild flowers now than formerly. The date-palm

flourishes in the open air. Capital walking-sticks are made of the

midrib of the leaf. Among the trees which fructify freely are the

orange, lemon, and citron trees, the pepper tree (_Schinus molle_),

the camphor tree (_Ligustrum ovalifolium_), the locust tree

(_Ceratona siliqua_), the Tree Veronica, the magnolia, and

different species of the Eucalyptus or gum tree and of the true Acacia.

In marshy places the common bamboo (_Arundo donax_) attains a great

height; while the _Sedum dasyphyllum_, the aloe, and the Opuntium

or prickly-pear, clothe the dry rocky banks with verdure. The most

important tree commercially is the olive, which occupies the lower part

of the mountains and immense tracts in the valleys. The higher

elevations are divided among the cork tree (_Quercus suber_), the

Maritime, Aleppo, and umbrella pines, and the chestnut tree. The

Japanese medlar (_Eriobotrya japonica_) is common in the orchards,

flowers in December, and ripens its fruit in May. With the exception of

the orange, lemon, and cherry, all the other orchard trees ripen their

fruit too late for the winter resident.

_The Riviera:_

Cost of Living.

On the Riviera generally, but especially in Hyères, St. Raphael,

Grasse, and Menton, board and lodging in good hotels can be had for 8s.

or 9s. per day, which includes coffee or tea in the morning, and a

substantial meat breakfast and dinner, with country wine (vin

109

ordinaire) to both. In some boarding-houses (Pensions) the price per day

is as low as 6s. If two are together, especially two ladies or a

gentleman and his wife, an excellent plan is to take a furnished room,

which, with a south exposure and good furniture, ought to cost about £2

per month. They can easily prepare their own breakfast, and they can get

their dinner sent to them. If the party be numerous, apartments should

be taken, which vary from £2 to £30 per month. For the season, from

October to May, furnished apartments are let at prices varying from £18

to £100. As a general rule it is best to alight at some hotel, and,

while on the spot, to select either the pension or apartments, as no

description can give an adequate idea of the state of the drains nor of

the people of the house. A maid-servant costs nearly £1 per month,

a cook about one-half more, but they are not easily managed. Fluids

are sold by the litre, equal to nearly a quart of four (not six) to the

gallon. Solids are sold by the kilogramme, or, as it is generally

called, the kilo, equal to 2 lbs. 3¼ oz.

Bread is about the same price as in England. The best beef and mutton

cost from 1s. 10d. to 2s. the kilo. A good chicken 2s. 6d. Eggs

when at their dearest cost 1½d. each. Excellent milk costs 4d. the

litre. The best butter 3s. 2d. to 3s. 6d. the kilo. Of French cheese

there are a great many kinds, all very good. Among the best are the

Roquefort and the fromage bleu, both resembling Stilton, and cost from

2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. the kilo.

_The Riviera:_ Fish.

Vegetables.

Fish are dearer than in England. The best caught off the coast are: the

Rouget or Red Mullet, the Dorade or Bream, the Loup or Bass, the

Sardine, and the Anchovy. The Gray Mullet, the Gurnard (Grondin), the

John Dory (Dorée Commune), the Whiting (Merlan), and the Conger are very

fair. The sole, turbot, tunny, and mackerel are inferior to those caught

in the ocean. The cuttle-fish is also eaten. Good vegetables can

be had all through the winter, such as carrots, leeks, celery, cabbage,

cauliflower, peas, lettuce, spinage, sorrel, and artichokes. The cardon

(_Cynara cardunculus_) and salsifis (_Tragopogon porrifolius_)

are often served up at dinner in the hotels. The cardon tastes like

celery, but the salsifis has a bitter flavour. The potatoes are of good

quality, but often spoilt in the cooking. In all the stations are

English clergymen, physicians, apothecaries, bankers, bakers, and

grocers.

_The Riviera:_

Advantages.

Before commencing to treat in detail the different stations of the

Riviera, “some of the general advantages of the invalid’s life in this

region must be noticed. The chief of these is the amount of sunshine

which he enjoys for weeks and even months together, when the sun

110

often rises in a cloudless sky, shines for several hours with a

brightness and warmth surpassing that of the British summer, and then

sinks without a cloud behind the secondary ranges of the Maritime Alps,

displaying in his setting the beautiful and varied succession of tints

which characterise that glorious phenomenon of the refraction of light,

a southern sunset; when he imparts to the rugged mountains a

softness of outline and a brilliancy of colouring which defy

description. In the early stages of phthisis, and especially when the

patient is young and active-minded, struck down by overwork or sudden

exposure, this cheering influence is most beneficial. It is of great

importance that, while taking the needful care of himself, he should not

degenerate at an early age into a hopeless valetudinarian, especially as

an every-day increasing mass of evidence warrants us in believing that

under the influence of medicine and climate a large number of these

patients gradually recover their health and lead useful lives, and, with

due care, lives of no inconsiderable duration. Patients should never

neglect to consult a doctor on their first arrival, as his experience

and advice with regard to lodgings, food, etc., are of great value, and

may often prevent them from falling into bad hands, or settling in

unhealthy localities.” To these remarks of Dr. Williams may be added,

that patients should bring with them a letter from their physician

describing their case and the treatment he thinks should be adopted.

The best time for walking and driving is between 9 and 12, as then

there is rarely either wind or dust. For invalids requiring quiet sunny

walks there are no stations on the whole coast so suitable as Hyères and

Bordighera.

_The Riviera:_

Sea-bathing. Doctors’ Fees.

_Sea-bathing_ on the Riviera may be

continued with advantage by many during the greater part of the winter

season. As the rise and fall of the tide are so trifling, the beach is

always in a fit state for the bather. The water of the Mediterranean is

more highly mineralised than that of the ocean. It contains about 41 per

cent of common salt.

_Doctors’

Fees._—French doctors charge their countrymen generally 10

frs. for each visit. English doctors charge for each visit 5, 10, or 20

frs., according to what they suppose to be the means of their patients.

An extra charge is made for night work.

Tourists may find it convenient to take with them a little brandy,

tea, arrowroot, Liebig’s extract, Gregory’s mixture, opium pills, and a

little of whatever medicine they are in the habit of using. The ordinary

wine at the hotels is neither so good nor so safe as formerly, and

should always be watered.

111

Marseilles.

opp. 113

plan of Marseilles

MARSEILLES.

MARSEILLES, pop. 319,000, 15 hrs. 25 min. from Paris, and 6

hrs. 37 min. from Lyons. From Cannes it is 4 hrs. 31 min., and from Nice

5 hrs. 27 min. 536½ m. S. from Paris, 190¼ m. S. from Lyons,

120½ m. W. from Cannes, and 140 m. W. from Nice. On the

departure side of the railway station is the Terminus Hotel

(dear). The hotel omnibuses await passengers. Call out loudly the name

of the hotel desired, to which the driver of its omnibus will

respond.

A plentiful supply of Cabs is both at the railway and the

custom-house station of the Bassin de la Joliette. Each coachman is

furnished with an official tariff, which, though constantly changing,

may be stated to be—Between 6 a.m. and midnight, for a cab with one horse, the

course, 1 fr.; the hour, 2 frs. With 2 horses, the course, 1¼

fr.; the hour, 2¼ frs. From midnight to 6 a.m. 75 c. extra. Portmanteaus not above 30 kilo.,

or 68⅘ lbs., 25 c. each. The hotel omnibuses charge each passenger

1 fr.

_Hotels._—In the Rue Cannebière,

ascending from the Port, are very fine Cafés, and in the eastern

continuation of it, the Rue Noailles, the best Hotels. The Hôtel

du Louvre et de la Paix; the Hôtel Noailles; and the Hôtel Marseilles;

all near each other, and charging from 12 to 20 frs. per day.

Less luxurious and expensive are: the Petit Louvre, No. 16 R.

Cannebière, over the office of Messageries Maritimes steamboats; between

the Port and the Bourse, the Hôtel de Genève, a comfortable house;

on the opposite side of the Rue Cannebière and near the opera house, the

Hôtel Beauveau; near it, in the R. Vacon, the *Hôtel des

Colonies.

In and about the Cours Belsunce, where there are a large cab-stand

and an important tramway terminus, are some good second-class hotels, of

which the best is the Hotel des Phocéens, 28 R. des Récolettes. Rooms,

2½ frs.; Dinner, 3½ frs. with wine. Next it, at No. 26, is the Hôtel de

l’Europe, a “maison meublée,” in which good rooms, including

service, cost 2 frs. Breakfast and dinner can be had in the

neighbouring restaurants. Of them, one of the most comfortable is

G. Restaurant des Gourmets, adjoining the hotel. Near it is the

Restaurant Bouches du Rhône, a cheap house. The other second-class

houses in the Cours Belsunce which can be recommended are—the

Californie; Deux Mondes; Hotel St. Marie; Négociants; Alger. The Hôtel

du Cours is good also, but it is only a “maison meublée.” The

continuation of the Cours Belsunce is called the Cours St. Louis, where

a flower-market

112

is held. Just off this Cours, in the Rue d’Aubagne, is a cheap, good,

and clean house, the hotel and restaurant St. Louis; rooms from 1½ to

3 frs.; dinner, à la carte. At No. 8 Place de Rome is a good and

cheap house, the Hôtel Forer, well situated, but it is one of those for

which either a cab or the general omnibus must be taken at the

station.

Marseilles: Steamboats. Custom-House.

_Steamboats._—The steamers of the

Messageries Maritimes, of Morelli et Cie, of Fraissinet et

Cie, of the P. and O. Navigation Co., etc., arrive and

depart from the Dock or Bassin Joliette. The custom-house is at the north end of the

dock, and just outside the dock-gates are porters and a large cab-stand.

The custom-house contains one waiting-room for the first and second

class, and another for the third. Passengers before they can have their

baggage examined have to pay 6 sous at the end of the baggage-room for

each box, for which they receive an acknowledgment. A tramway runs

from No. 1 Quai Joliette to Longchamps, entering the Port and the Rue

Cannebière by the R. de la République. There are no hotels near the

steamboat station.

Small boats’ station at the head of the Port. Boats to and from the

Château d’If, 8 frs. from 3 to 3½ hrs. On feast days small

steamers make the round of the islands, starting from nearly the same

place, but do not land the passengers, fare ½ fr., time 1 hr. At this

part of the quay the feluccas from Spain discharge their cargoes of

oranges and other fruits. From the Hôtel de Ville (1 in plan) on

the port, the Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Place aux Huiles

opposite, 1 sou. At the mouth of the port, from between La Consigne and

the Fort St. Jean, other Bateaux Mouches cross over to the Bassin

Carénage, by the side of Fort St. Nicholas, and just below the

interesting old church of St. Victor, 1 sou. From this a road leads up

to Notre Dame.

The principal Temple Protestant is in the R. Vincent, No. 2.

There is another in the R. Grignan, No. 15, near the General Post

Office at No. 53. Poste-Restante, “guichet,” on the ground-floor,

opposite the entrance door. Telegraph office, No. 10 Rue Pavé d’Amour.

Anglican chapel, No. 100 Rue Sylvabelle, south from the Rue Grignan and

parallel to it. The public library is in the Boulevard du Musée, in the

École des Beaux Arts. Open daily except Sunday.

Best money-changers by the west side of the Bourse, 10 in plan.

The Opera is near the Port; the other theatres are around the Rue

Noailles.

Marseilles: Sights. Trams.

Sights.—Palais Longchamp, an

artistic edifice, containing the Picture Gallery and the Natural

History Museum; free. Closed on Mondays and every day between 12 and

2 (see p. 114). Near the

113

Palais is the Zoological Garden, free on Sundays. Notre Dame de la Garde (p. 116). The

shops and cafés in the Rues Cannebière and Noailles. A drive on the

Corniche road.

Of all the Trams the most important starts from the

left of the statue in the Cours Belsunce, and runs by the Château des

Fleurs and the Prado to its Bonneveine terminus, a little beyond

the racecourse. Just behind the Bonneveine terminus is the Château Borély,

containing the Musée d’Archéologie, including a collection of Phoenician

relics found in the neighbourhood, which support the hypothesis of the

Phoenician origin of Marseilles. Open on Sundays and Thursdays. On the

ground-floor are Roman mosaics, busts, altars, tombstones, jewellery,

mummies; and in the end room is a stone with a Phoenician inscription,

regulating the tariff of the prices to be paid to the priests for

sacrifices in the temple of Baal. Upstairs are collections of antique

glass, necklaces, fayence from Provence and Marseilles, bronzes, gold

jewellery, lamps, vases, weapons, and an octagonal plan of Marseilles 18

ft. in diameter.

Marseilles: Corniche. Bouillabaisse.

Return from the Bonneveine terminus by the tram for the Place de

Rome, near 12 in plan. On its way it follows the Corniche

road, considered the most beautiful drive about Marseilles, fare ½ fr.

The gardens and pleasure-grounds in the whole of this neighbourhood are

due to the irrigation afforded by the canal. Of the bathing

establishments on the Corniche road the best is the Roucas Blanc; and of

the restaurants the best is the Hotel Roubion, a first-class house,

charging 15 frs. per day, and for vin ordinaire, lights, and service,

5 frs. additional. The house is situated on an eminence rising from

the Corniche road, at the entrance into the Vallon de l’Oriol, commands

a splendid sea view, has handsome dining-rooms, and is famed for its

fish dinners and Bouillabaisse. Trams and omnibuses are constantly

passing it. This establishment, as well as most of the other restaurants

along the Corniche road, has tanks in the rocks on the beach, in which

is kept a supply of live fish to make the Provence dish called Bouillabaisse,

a kind of fish soup, which, like most national

dishes—plum-pudding, puchero, haggis, etc.—admits of

considerable latitude in the preparation. The essentials are—whole

rascasses and chapons (scorpion fishes), and rock lobsters stewed in a

liquor mixed with a little of the best olive oil, and flavoured with

tender savoury herbs. An extra good Bouillabaisse should include also

crayfish, a few mussels, and some pieces of any first-class fish,

such as the bass.

Marseilles: Palais de Longchamp.

Those having little time to devote to Marseilles should, after taking

114

a short stroll about the Port and in the Rues Cannebière and Noailles,

enter the Joliette tram on its way up to the Palais de Longchamp, fare 2

sous. The Palais de Longchamp, which cost

£165,000, consists of two rectangular wings, united by a semicircular

colonnade of Ionic volute-fluted columns. In the centre, under a

richly-sculptured massive archway, an inscription records that the great

undertaking of bringing the water of the Durance to Marseilles was begun

on the 15th November 1839, and was accomplished on the 8th July 1847, in

the reign of Louis Philippe I. Another records that the palace was

commenced in the reign of Napoleon III., on the 7th April 1862, and

finished on the 15th August 1869. From a group of colossal bulls under

the colonnade gushes a copious stream of water, which in its descent

makes a cascade of 90 ft. in three stages. The wing to the right,

standing with the face to the palace, contains the Natural History

Museum; and the other, the picture and sculpture galleries.

All the pictures are labelled. On the first floor are some large

pictures by French artists and a few statues. In the second small room

left hand is a collection of sketches by famous painters. Among the best

pictures in the large centre hall of the upper story are:—F. Bol,

d. 1681, portrait of woman and of King of Poland; Bourdon,

d. 1671, portrait of P. de Champaigne; Cesari, d. 1640, Noah

inebriated; Fontenay, d. 1715, Fruit; Girodet, d. 1824, Fruit;

Gongo, d. 1764, Sacrifice to Venus and Jupiter; Greuze,

d. 1805, portrait; Holbein, d. 1554, portrait; Loo,

d. 1745, portrait of lady; Maratta, d. 1713, Cardinal Cibo;

Mignard, d. 1695, Ninon de Lenclos; Nattier, d. 1766, Mme. de

Pompadour as Aurora; Peeters, d. 1652, marine scene; Pellegrino,

d. 1525, Holy Family; Perugino, d. 1524, Holy Family;

F. Porbus, d. 1584, portrait; Raphael, d. 1520, St. John;

Rembrandt, d. 1669, A Prophetess (sibyl); Reni, d. 1642,

The Protectors of Milan; Ribera, d. 1656, Juan de Porcida; Rigaud,

d. 1745, Duc de Villars; Rubens, d. 1640, Wild-boar Hunt;

Salvator Rosa, d. 1675, Hermit; Veronese, d. 1588, Venetian

princess; Zurbaran, d. 1662, St. Francis. In the room to the right

is the “École Provençal,” containing, among other

paintings—Barry, The Bosphorus; Duparc, d. 1778, The

Milkmaid, and portraits of old man, woman, and girl knitting; Papety,

d. 1849, “La Vierge Consolatrice”; P. Puget, Madonna. In the

left room are, among others, J. F. Millet, b. 1815, Woman

feeding Child.

The most important parts of the Museum of Natural History are the

conchological division and the collection of ammonites.

115

From the Palace gardens is a good view of Marseilles. Behind the

palace, on the top of the hill, is the great reservoir 242 ft. above the

sea, supplied with water from the main channel by a branch canal. (See

under Roquefavour, p. 77.) At this part of

the hill is one of the entrances to the Zoological Gardens; free on

Sundays, when they are crowded with people. Near the entrance is the

Observatory, one of the most important in France.

Marseilles: Hôtel de Ville. La Consigne.

(For the following see maps, pages 66 and