On reaching safely the town of Kúkawa, which had been my head-quarters
for so long a period, and from whence I had first commenced my journeys
of exploration in Negroland, it might seem that I had overcome all the
difficulties in the way of complete success, and that I could now enjoy
a short stay in the same place before traversing the last stage of my
homeward journey. Such however was not the case, and it was my lot to
pass four months in this town under rather unpleasant circumstances. I
had expected to find sufficient means here, and had in consequence
agreed to repay the sum of 200 dollars lent me by the Fezzáni merchant
Khweldi, in Kanó; but there were only a few dollars in cash left of the
supplies taken out by Mr. Vogel, those deposited by myself in Zínder in
the hands of the Sheríf el Fási, viz., 400 dollars in cash and a box
containing a considerable amount of iron ware, having been plundered
during the turbulent state of the country produced by the revolution.
Even of the merchandise which had been lately despatched to Zínder, and
from thence, in consequence of Mr. Vogel’s arrangements, transported to
Kúkawa, a very considerable proportion was found, on a close
examination, to have been abstracted. Being therefore in want of money,
and convinced that if such an outrage were allowed to pass by unnoticed
no peaceable intercourse could ever be carried on between this country
and Europeans, I explained these circumstances in the first audience
which I had of the Sheikh, to whom I made a present worth about eight
pounds sterling.
While therefore once more assuring him of my unbounded satisfaction at
finding him reinstated in his former power, I requested him not to
suffer me to be treated in this manner by thieves and robbers, and to
exert his influence for the restoration of my property. This proceeding
of mine, as responsible to the government under whose auspices I was
travelling, involved me in a series of difficulties, and excited against
me Díggama, one of the most influential courtiers at the time, and a man
of mean character, as it was his servant, or more probably himself, who
had obtained possession of the greater part of the plunder. In order to
counteract the intrigues of this man I endeavoured to secure the
friendship of Yusuf, the Sheikh’s next eldest brother, an intelligent
and straightforward man, by making him a handsome present and explaining
to him, in unequivocal terms, how a friendly intercourse between
themselves and the English could only exist if they acted in a
conscientious manner. Another circumstance which contributed to render
my situation in this place still more uncomfortable, was the relation
which existed between Mr. Vogel and Corporal Church, one of the sappers
who had come with him from England; and I was sorry that the
praiseworthy and generous intention of the Government in sending out
these two useful persons, should not be carried out to the fullest
extent, but, on the contrary, should be baffled by private animosity. In
this respect I had already been greatly disappointed and grieved, on
hearing from Mr. Vogel, when I met him on the road, that he had gone
alone to Mándará, without making any use of the services of his
companions. I did all in my power to convince the two sappers that under
the circumstances in which they were placed, they ought to forget petty
jealousies, as it was only by a mutual good understanding that complete
success in such undertakings could be secured. I succeeded in convincing
Macguire, although I was less successful with Corporal Church.
Meanwhile I spent my time in a tolerably useful manner, looking over
some of the books which Mr. Vogel had brought with him, especially M.
Jomard’s introduction to the translation of the “Voyage au Waday,” by M.
Perron, and the “Flora Nigritia” of Sir William Hooker. I was also
considerably interested by the perusal of a packet of letters which had
been conveyed in the very box that had been plundered, and which,
although dating back as late as December, 1851, afforded me a great deal
of pleasure. Partly in order to fulfil a vow which I had made, and
partly to obtain a more secure hold upon the friendly dispositions of
the natives, I made a present to the inhabitants of the capital, on
Christmas-day, of fourteen oxen, not forgetting either rich or poor,
blind or fókara, nor even the Arab strangers.
My residence in the town became infinitely more cheerful, in consequence
of the arrival of Mr. Vogel, on the 29th December, when I spent a period
of twenty days most pleasantly in the company of this enterprising and
courageous young traveller, who, with surprising facility, accustomed
himself to all the relations of this strange life. But while borne away
by the impulse of his own enthusiasm, and giving up all pretensions to
the comforts of life, he unfortunately committed the mistake of
expecting that his companions, recently arrived from Europe, and whose
ideas were less elevated, should do the same, and this had given rise to
a lamentable quarrel, which frustrated in a great measure the intentions
of the Government who had sent out the party. Exchanging opinions with
regard to countries which we had both of us traversed, and planning
schemes as to the future course which Mr. Vogel was to pursue, and
especially as to the next journey which he was to undertake towards
Yákoba and Ádamáwa, we passed our time very agreeably. I communicated to
him, as far as it was possible in so short a space of time, all the
information which I had collected during my extensive wanderings, and
called his attention to various points which I begged him to clear up,
especially with regard to some remarkable specimens of the vegetable
kingdom, and the famous mermaid of the Bénuwé, the “ayú.” It was rather
unfortunate that no copy of the map which had been constructed from the
materials which I had sent home had reached him, so that he remained in
the dark with regard to many points which I had already cleared up. I
also delivered to Mr. Vogel those letters of introduction which I had
received from the ruler of Sókoto, addressed to the various governors of
the provinces in this part of his empire, so that he had a fair prospect
before him of being well received. We, moreover, lost no time in
obtaining the Sheikh’s consent to his journey, and at the same time
caused to be imprisoned Mesaúd, that servant of the mission who, by his
connivance, had facilitated the theft committed upon my effects. In
consequence of this energetic proceeding, several of the stolen articles
came to light, even of those which had formed the contents of the box
sent from England.
Thus we began cheerfully the year 1855, in which I was to return to
Europe, from my long career of hardships and privations, and in which my
young friend was to endeavour to complete my discoveries and researches,
first in a south-westerly direction, towards the Bénuwé, and then
eastwards, in the direction of the Nile. We likewise indulged in the
hope that he might succeed, after having explored the provinces of
Baúchi and Ádamáwa, in penetrating eastward along that highly
interesting route which leads from Saráwu to Lóggoné, round the southern
border of the mountainous country of Mándará.
Meanwhile some interesting excursions to the shores of the Tsád, formed
a pleasant interruption in our course of studies and scientific
communications, and these little trips were especially interesting, on
account of the extraordinary manner in which the shores of the lake had
been changed since I last saw them, on my return from Bagírmi, the water
having destroyed almost the whole of the town of Ngórnu, and extending
as far as the village of Kúkia, where we had encamped the first night on
our expedition to Músgu. There were two subjects which caused me some
degree of anxiety with regard to the prospects of this enterprising
young traveller,—the first being his want of experience, which could not
be otherwise expected in a young man fresh from Europe; and the other,
the weakness of his stomach, which made it impossible for him to eat any
meat at all. The very sight of a dish of meat made him sick. I observed
that Macguire was affected in the same manner.
Having obtained, with some difficulty, the letter of recommendation from
the Sheikh, and prepared everything that Mr. Vogel wanted to take with
him, forming a sufficient supply to maintain him for a whole year, I
accompanied my young friend out of the town, in the afternoon of the
20th January. But our start was rather unlucky, several things having
been left behind; and it was after some delay and uncertainty that we
joined the people who had gone on in advance with the camels, at a late
hour, at the village of Díggigí. Here we passed a cheerful evening, and
drank with spirit to the success of the enterprise upon which my
companion was then about to engage. Mr. Vogel had also taken with him
all his meteorological instruments, and his luggage being of a manifold
description and rather heavy, I foresaw that he would have great trouble
in transporting it through the difficult country beyond Yákoba,
especially during the rainy season; and indeed it is evident, from the
knowledge which we possess of his further proceedings, that he either
left his instruments behind in the capital of Baúchi, or that he lost
them in crossing a river between that place and Záriya. As for his
barometer, which he had transported with great care to Kúkawa, it went
out of order the moment it was taken from the wall.
Having borne him company during the following day’s march, I left him
with the best wishes for his success. I had taken considerable pains in
instructing his companion, Corporal Macguire, in the use of the compass,
as the accurate laying down of the configuration of the ground seemed to
me of the highest importance in a mountainous country like Baúchi and
Ádamáwa. For Mr. Vogel himself could not be induced to undertake such a
task, as it would have interfered greatly with the collecting of plants,
which, besides making astronomical observations, was his chief object;
and besides being an extremely tedious business, it required a degree of
patience which my young friend did not possess.[52] However, I am afraid
that even Macguire did not follow up my instructions for any length of
time. At all events, as he did not accompany Mr. Vogel beyond Yákoba, it
seems evident that even if his journal should be saved, we should
probably not find all the information with regard to the particulars of
his route which we might desire in such a country; for during all the
journeys which he has pursued, as far as we have any knowledge of them,
he relied entirely upon his astronomical observations. I will say
nothing here with regard to the results of this journey, as we may
entertain the hope that his journals may still be saved, and that we may
thus learn something more of him than the little which has as yet come
to our knowledge.
It may be easily imagined, that on returning to Kúkawa I felt rather
desolate and lonely; but I had other reasons for feeling uncomfortable,
for having exposed myself to the cold the preceding night, I was seized
with a violent attack of rheumatism, which laid me up for a long time,
and which, causing me many sleepless nights, reduced me to an
extraordinary degree of weakness, from which I did not recover for the
greater part of the month. Nevertheless, I did not desist from
requesting the Sheikh, in the most urgent terms, to send me on my way,
and to supply me at least with camels, in compensation for the loss
which I had sustained through the insurrection. I had hopes that he
would allow me to set out at the beginning of the next Mohammedan month,
and I was therefore extremely delighted when two respectable Arabs came
forward and offered to accompany me on my journey to Fezzán, although I
did not much rely on the expectations which they raised. Meanwhile, on
the 3rd February, the pupils of the Sheikh el Bakáy, who had stayed so
long behind in Kanó, reached Kúkawa, and their arrival was not at all
disagreeable to me, although they put me to fresh expense; for, by their
authority, as being the followers of a highly venerated Mohammedan
chief, they increased the probability of my safely entering upon my home
journey. I therefore went with my friends to pay a visit to Zén el
Ábidín, the son-in-law of the Sheikh el Bakáy, who, having been formerly
employed by the Sheikh ʿOmár as a messenger to the emír of Sókoto, was
now again to return eastward; for having in the beginning been treated
rather unkindly by his wife Zéna, “The Ornament,” El Bakáy’s daughter,
he had thought it better to console himself with a pilgrimage to Mekka,
and did not now appear willing to listen to the solicitations of his
repentant wife, who sincerely wished him to return to bear her company.
I found him a simple and decent looking man, whose manners pleased me
the more as he abstained entirely from begging, and I testified the
obligation which I bore to his family, by sending him an ox for
slaughtering, a sheep, and some smaller articles. I had also the
pleasure of meeting here the sheríf ʿAbd e’ Rahmán, the same man whom we
had met four years previously in the country of Áír, and who had lately
returned from Ádamáwa. He brought me the latest information of the state
of that country, and as he was to return again in that direction, at a
later period when I had received fresh supplies, I thought it prudent to
give him a small parcel to deliver to Mr. Vogel wherever he should fall
in with him, especially a few túrkedís and some sugar, of which he had
taken with him only a small supply.
Having hired a guide and protested repeatedly to the Sheikh that I could
not wait any longer, my health having suffered considerably from my five
years’ stay in these countries, I left the town on the 20th February,
and pitched my tent on the high ground at Dárwerghú, just above the pool
or swamp, round the southern border of which sorghum is cultivated to a
considerable extent, and which in the daytime formed the watering-place
for numerous herds of cattle. During the night it was visited by a great
number of water fowl. On the whole, I felt extremely happy in having at
length left behind me a town of which I had become excessively tired.
But it was not my destiny to get off so easily, and leave this country
so soon, for I had had repeated and very serious consultations, not only
with the Sheikh, but especially with his brother, Abba Yusuf, who was
distinguished by his learning and his love of justice, about the parcel
sent by Her Majesty’s government, together with the 400 dollars which I
had left behind in Zínder, and which had been stolen in consequence of
the revolutionary outbreak. After a great deal of discussion, the Sheikh
promised me that he would restore what I had lost. But, knowing from
experience that with these people time is of no value, and finding my
health rapidly declining, I had come to the resolution of not waiting
any longer, and the Sheikh, seeing that I was determined, according to
all appearance gave his full approval to my departure by sending me, on
the morning of the 21st, five camels, which, although of very inferior
quality, yet held out to me a slight hope of proceeding on my journey.
But in the afternoon of the 22nd he sent to me my old friend Háj Edrís,
in order to induce me to return into the town; and the latter made me
all sorts of promises as to the manner in which the Sheikh wanted to
grant me redress for all the claims which I had upon him. In order to
show the ruler of the country that I had no fault to find with his own
conduct, and to entreat him once more to send me off without further
delay, I went into the town in the course of the afternoon and paid my
respects to him. He desired me to return with all my effects to my old
quarters; but I told him that was impossible, as my state of health
rendered it essential for me to return home without further delay,
whereas by taking up my quarters once more inside the town, according to
their own slow mode of proceeding, I was sure not to get away before a
couple of months had elapsed; but I said that I would gladly wait
outside some days longer, and that if he wished I would come into the
town every day in order to ascertain if there was anything he wished to
say to me. To this the Sheikh seemed to agree at the time, and thus I
took leave of him in the most quiet and satisfactory manner, and it
appeared as if every thing was arranged and that he would in no way
interfere with my departure. I therefore bought two more camels the
following day, out of a large number which had been brought into the
town by the Tebu, from the Bahhr el Ghazál; and on the 25th, through the
mediation of a respectable Tebu merchant, of the name of Háj el Bíggela,
made an agreement with a guide, paying him half of his salary in
advance. The same evening the Sheikh sent me some more provisions.
Thus, all seemed ready for my departure, although I had not many people
at my disposal; but when it had only been delayed one day by accident,
there appeared suddenly, in the afternoon of the 28th, ʿAlí Zíntelma,
that same servant of Díggelma who had stolen part of the merchandise
which he was bringing from Zínder to Kúkawa, at the head of four
horsemen armed with muskets, bringing me an order from the Sheikh to
return to the town. Feeling convinced, from the character of the
messenger, that if I did not obey the order I should expose myself to
all sorts of insults from this contemptible villain, if I did not rid
myself of him in a violent and unlawful manner, I thought it prudent,
heartrending though it was, to resign myself in obedience to the
tyrannical will of these people. It happened rather fortunately for me
that Sídi Áhmed, the chief of Sídi el Bakáy’s messengers, was staying
with me at the time in my encampment. Having therefore sent my people in
advance to my old quarters, I went to see the Sheikh. I then protested
against such a proceeding; but he himself did not speak, a younger
brother of his, of the name of Abba ʿOthmán, taking the lead in the
conversation, and stating that the Sheikh could not allow me to depart
in this manner; and from all that I could learn, I concluded that it was
especially this man who had persuaded his elder brother that it was not
prudent to allow me to go unsatisfied as I was, and without having
settled my claims, the dangers of the road also being very great. But
the principal reason was, that a Tebu messenger had arrived with letters
from the north, although I did not hear what the letters addressed to
the Sheikh himself contained; but I afterwards learned that this man had
brought the news of the approach of a caravan, and it was but natural
that the Sheikh should wish to await its arrival. This messenger brought
nothing for me except a copy of a despatch of Lord Clarendon’s, dated
10th June, 1853, and consequently more than twenty months old. The news
of my death seemed to be fully accredited in Tripoli and Fezzán, my
letter, forwarded from Kanó, of course not having arrived in the latter
place when this parcel left; and the only thing which afforded me
satisfaction in my unpleasant situation were a few Maltese portfolios,
which gave me some information of what had been going on in Europe four
months previously.
All that now remained for me under the present circumstances was, to
resign myself in patience, although the delay pressed upon me with
indescribable heaviness, and I had scarcely energy enough to endeavour
to employ my time usefully. However, a rather pleasant intermezzo
occurred, whereby at the same time one of the conditions was fulfilled
upon which my own departure was dependent, by the arrival of the Arab
caravan from the north; and on the 23rd of March, I went to see them
encamped in Dáwerghú, the path being enlivened by all sorts of people
going out to meet their friends, and to hear what news had been brought
by the new comers. The caravan consisted of rather more than a hundred
Arabs, but not more than sixty camels, the chief of the caravan being
Háj Jáber, an old experienced Fezzáni merchant. There was, besides, an
important personage of considerable intelligence, notwithstanding his
youth, viz. Abba Áhmed ben Hamma el Kánemi. These people had left
Fezzán, under the impression that I was dead, and were therefore not a
little surprised at finding me alive, especially that same Mohammed el
ʿAkeroút, from whom I had received the 1000 dollars in Zínder, and who
was again come to Negroland on a little mercantile speculation. This
caravan also carried 1000 dollars for the mission, but it was not
addressed to me, as I had long been consigned to the grave, but to Mr.
Vogel, although the chief of the caravan offered to deliver it to me.
All this mismanagement, in consequence of the false news of my death,
greatly enhanced the unpleasant nature of my situation; for, instead of
leaving this country under honourable circumstances, I was considered as
almost disgraced by those who had sent me out, the command having been
taken from me and given to another. There is no doubt that such an
opinion delayed my departure considerably; for, otherwise, the Sheikh
would have exerted himself in quite a different manner to see me off,
and would have agreed to any sacrifice in order to satisfy my claims.
However, in consequence of the representations of Abba Áhmed, he sent me
on the 28th through that same Díggelma, to whom I was indebted for the
greater part of my unpleasant situation, the 400 dollars which had come
along with the box of English ironware, and he offered even to indemnify
me for the loss of the articles contained in the box. This however I did
not feel justified in accepting, as the value of those contents had been
greatly exaggerated by the agent in Múrzuk, and claims raised in
consequence. Nevertheless, the amount received was a great relief to me,
as without touching the sum brought by the caravan, I was thus enabled
to pay back the 200 dollars lent me by the Fezzáni merchant Kweldi, and
to pay my servant Mohammed el Gatróni, the only one of my free servants
who was still staying with me, the greater proportion of the salary due
to him, for I had succeeded in paying off my other servants from the
money realized by my merchandise.
Meanwhile I endeavoured to pass my time as well as I could, studying the
history of the empire of Bórnu, and entering occasionally into a longer
conversation with some of the better instructed of my acquaintances, or
making a short excursion; but altogether my usual energy was gone, and
my health totally undermined, and the sole object which occupied my
thoughts was, to convey my feeble body in safety home. My reduced state
of body and mind was aggravated by the weather, as it was extremely hot
during this period, the thermometer in the latter part of the month of
April, at half-past two o’clock in the afternoon, rising as high as
113°.[53] My exhausted condition had at least this effect upon the
people, that it served to hasten my departure, by convincing them that I
should not be able to stand this climate any longer. From the 20th of
April therefore onward I was made to hope, that I should be allowed to
proceed on my journey, in the company of a Tebu merchant of the name of
Kólo. A small caravan of Tebu, proceeding to Bilma to fetch salt, having
gone in advance on the 25th, I went in the afternoon of the 28th to the
Sheikh, in company with Abba Áhmed who, on the whole, was extremely
useful to me in my endeavours to get off, in order to make my final
arrangement with Kólo. This day was certainly the happiest day or the
only happy one which I passed in this place after the departure of Mr.
Vogel; for, in the morning, on returning from an excursion to Dáwerghú,
I found a messenger with letters from my companion, one dated from
Gújeba, the other from Yákoba, wherein he informed me of the progress of
his journey, and how he had safely reached the latter place, which had
never before been visited by a European. He also informed me that he was
just about to start for the camp, or sansánne, of the governor, who had
been waging war for the last seven years against a tribe of idolaters
whom he had sworn to subject. Greatly delighted at the prospect which
opened to my fellow traveller, whom I was to leave behind me, of filling
up the blanks which I had left in my discoveries, I made the messenger a
handsome present. Being thus considerably relieved in mind and full of
hopes, I bore with patience and resignation some little disagreeable
incidents which occurred before my final departure, especially the loss
of two of the camels which I had recently bought.
[Footnote 52: Macguire was to accompany Mr. Vogel on his excursion, and
he promised cheerfully to assist him in every way towards accomplishing
the objects of Her Majesty’s government. As for Corporal Church, it was
thought the best plan that he should return to Europe in my company.]
[Footnote 53: It was rather remarkable, that on the 15th of April, we
had a few drops of rain, accompanied by repeated thunder; and
altogether, as the sequel showed, the rainy season that year appeared to
set in at a rather unusual and early period for Kúkawa.]