The quarters which had been allotted to me this time, were at least a
little more airy than my former ones. My former guide, Dahóme, here paid
me a visit. Upon asking him whether he had faithfully delivered to the
mʿallem ʿAbd el Káder, in Sókoto, the parcel I had given him on his
taking leave of me at Dóre, he put on a rather sullen look, took from
his cap a small leather case, opened it, and drawing forth a dirty piece
of paper, to my utmost surprise and disappointment, exclaimed, “Here is
your letter!” I then learned, that in consequence of the violent rains
through which he had had to make his way, and the many rivers and swamps
which he had to cross, the whole envelope of the letter, containing the
lines addressed to my friend in Sókoto, had been destroyed, so that the
latter, receiving only the English letter, and not knowing what to do
with this hieroglyphic, at length returned it to the bearer, who had
since used it as a charm. Besides this mishap, which had delayed this
letter so long, instead of its being forwarded directly to Europe in
order to inform my friends of my proceedings, there was another
disagreeable piece of information for me here; viz., that nearly the
half of the huts composing the town had been consumed during my absence
by a conflagration, and that all my books which I had left behind had in
consequence been destroyed.
I stayed four days in Gando, endeavouring once more, in vain, to obtain
an audience from the prince, and to persuade my companions, the télamíd,
to give up their hopes of a handsome present from this niggardly man,
who sent me, if I may attribute the proceedings of his slaves to
himself, in return for all the presents I had made him, a common black
tobe and 3000 shells, although my supplies were totally exhausted, and
the two camels which I still possessed were more or less worn out, so
that I stood greatly in need of generous aid. But not wanting anything
besides from the governor, I was thankful that I had passed unmolested
through his extensive dominions, on my outward as well as on my home
journey, and even protected, as far as his feeble power was able to
grant protection.
The town was no better off now than it had been a year before, the
expedition against Argúngo, of which I had heard on the road as being
undertaken by ʿAlíyu, having turned out a mere sham, and in consequence
the pagan rebels being stronger and more daring than ever; and, just as
was the case during my former residence, there was an expedition on a
small scale every Tuesday and Thursday, made by the old people and the
women, in order to collect wood with some degree of security. On the
whole, there was nothing of interest to record, except the remarkable
quantity of rain which fell during my stay, and which was said to have
fallen before my arrival, confirming the impression already previously
received in my mind, that Gando was one of those places most abundantly
supplied with the watery element; and it was highly interesting for me
to learn from the people on this occasion, that, as a general rule, they
reckon upon ninety-two rainy days annually. I am quite sure that the
average rain-fall in this place is certainly not less than sixty inches;
but it is probably more than eighty, and perhaps even one hundred.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, August 23rd.]
I was heartily glad when I left this town, where I had experienced a
great deal of trouble, although I could not but acknowledge, that if I
had not succeeded in some degree in securing the friendship of the
ruling men in this place, it would not have fallen to my lot to have
reached even the banks of the Niger.
It is to be hoped that Khalílu will soon be succeeded by a more
energetic prince, who will restore peace and security to the extensive
dominions of which Gando is the capital. Under such circumstances, this
town, on account of its mercantile connections with the provinces along
the Niger, could hardly fail to become a place of the greatest interest.
A great many sweet potatoes, or dánkali, were cultivated in the district
through which I passed, although the aspect of the crops was far from
being satisfactory. The monkey-bread, or baobab trees, on the other
hand, were now in the full exuberance of their foliage. Leaving our
former route a little to the north, we took the southerly road to the
town of Dógo-n-dáji, which was enlivened by passengers proceeding to
visit the market held at that place, which proved to be much more
important than that of Gando, cattle, sheep, salt, and beads
constituting the chief articles for sale. But, just at the moment we
arrived, a thunder-storm broke out, which dispersed all the customers in
the market, and left us in a difficult position to supply our wants. The
town itself, although the clay wall was in a state of great decay,
presented an interesting aspect, being full of gonda, or _Erica Papaya_,
and date trees, which were just loaded with fruit, a rather rare sight
in Negroland.
[Sidenote: Thursday, August 24th.]
When we left the town of Dógo-n-dáji, we crossed the market-place, which
is adorned by five monkey-bread trees, but being empty at the time, it
looked somewhat desolate.
At the present day, at the outskirts of almost all the larger towns of
Negroland, Fúlbe families are established, who rear cattle for the
express purpose of supplying milk for the daily wants of the
inhabitants; and these people gladly provide travellers with that most
desirable article when they are well paid for it; but having degenerated
to mere tradesmen, they, of course, possess little hospitable feeling.
Leaving, then the town of Sála at about two miles distance to the north,
and passing through a populous district, rich in pastures and the
cultivation of rice and sórghum, and exhibiting near the town of Kusáda
a good many dúm- and deléb-palms, we ascended at length along a
difficult passage, rendered almost impassable by the quantity of rain
which had fallen, until we reached Shagári, the place where we had slept
on our outward journey, and where a market was just being held. We were
fortunate enough, this time, to obtain tolerable quarters, and to be
well treated.
The whole country which we traversed on our next day’s march, was
clothed with the richest vegetation, the crops being almost ripe, but
cattle and horses being very scanty. Thus, after a good march, we
reached the town of Bodínga, having lost another of our camels on the
road, which, in crossing one of the swampy valleys in which this part of
Negroland abounds, had fallen backwards with his load, and died on the
spot. But the quantity of water that we had to sustain from above and
below, was not only destructive to animals, but likewise to men, and I
myself felt most cheerless, weak, and without appetite, bearing already
within me the germs of dysentery, which soon were to develop themselves,
and undermine my health in the most serious way. My companions were not
much better off, and of the messengers of the Sheikh El Bakáy, none but
Sídi Áhmed was able to keep up with us.
A large and well-frequented market was held before the western gate of
the town of Bodínga, exhibiting a great number of horned cattle and
asses; but the more desolate appeared the extensive and at present
useless area of the town itself, which was now covered with rank grass,
or laid out in kitchen gardens, while only a few straggling cottages
were to be seen. Although I again preferred taking up my quarters
outside in my old place, I entered the town expressly in order to pay my
compliments to the governor, and was here most hospitably treated by my
friend, who manifested the greatest delight at my safe return to his
province from my dangerous journey westward. But I had great need of the
assistance of a powerful friend, as my camels were not able to carry my
little luggage any further; and the good-tempered son of my old friend
Módibo ʿAlí, not only assisted me with camels, but also himself mounted
the following morning on a stately charger, and escorted me several
miles on my road to Sókoto.
I reached the old residence of the Áhel Fódíye in a very exhausted
state, having been delayed on the road by falling in, in the midst of a
swampy fáddama, with a numerous caravan of asses, which entirely
obstructed the winding watery path. But notwithstanding my sickness, I
took extreme delight in the varied aspect which the country at present
exhibited, in comparison with the almost total nakedness which it had
displayed, when I set out from Sókoto sixteen months previously; and I
felt extremely grateful when I again found myself in this town, having
accomplished more than I ever thought I should be able to do.
The whole town, suburbs, wall, cottages, and gardens, were now enveloped
in one dense mass of vegetation, through which it was difficult to make
one’s way, and recognise places well known from former visits. Scarcely
had I been quartered in a comfortable hut, when my friend ʿAbd el Káder
Dan-Taffa, sent his compliments to me, and shortly after made his
appearance himself, expressing the liveliest satisfaction at seeing me
again, and sincere compassion for the reduced state of my health. Not
less encouraging was the reception I met with from my old friend Módibo
ʿAlí. When I made him a small present, regretting that after the long
time I had been without supplies I was not able to make him a better
one, he was so kind as to express his astonishment that I had anything
left at all. He also begged me not to go on at once to Wurnó, but to
stay a day in this place, and to write to ʿAlíyu, informing him of my
safe return, and how much I stood in need of his aid. I made use of this
opportunity of at once requesting the emír El Múmenín to forward me with
as little delay as possible on my journey, hinting, at the same time,
that I should feel very grateful to him, if he would assist me with
horses and camels. I intimated also, that as I myself, on account of the
reduced state of my health, was anxious to reach home by the most direct
road, I had to beg for permission for a countryman of mine, who had just
come to Bórnu, meaning Mr. Vogel, to visit the south-eastern provinces
of his kingdom. The following evening, a messenger arrived from the
vizier ʿAbdú, son of Gedádo, informing me that we were to start on the
succeeding day, and that we should find camels on the other side of the
river. The river, as I had already learned, was very much swollen, and
extremely difficult to cross.
While my Mohammedan and black friends thus behaved towards me in the
kindest and most hospitable manner, the way in which I felt myself
treated by my friends in Europe, was not at all encouraging, and little
adapted to raise my failing spirits; for it was only by accident,
through a liberated female slave from Stambúl, who called upon me soon
after my arrival, that I obtained information of the important fact,
that five Christians had arrived in Kúkawa, with a train of forty
camels. While I endeavoured to identify the individuals of whom this
person gave me some account from a very selfish point of view, with the
particulars contained in Lord Russell’s despatch, which I had received
near Timbúktu, about the members of an auxiliary expedition to be sent
out to join me, I was greatly astonished that, for myself, there was not
a single line from those gentlemen, although I felt still authorized to
consider myself the director of the African Expedition; and I could only
conclude from all this, that something was wrong. I had not yet any
direct intimation of the rumour which was spread abroad with regard to
my death: and taking everything into consideration, it was certainly a
want of circumspection in Mr. Vogel, notwithstanding the rumours which
were current in Bórnu, not to endeavour to place himself in
communication with me in the event of my being still alive.
[Illustration: Drawn by J. M. Bernatz, from a Sketch by Dr. Barth.