Having ascended the rising ground in order to obtain a view of the
mountains on the opposite shore, I went down to the river and enjoyed
the wild scenery of the rapids, which here also obstructed its course,
forcing this westerly branch to a velocity of perhaps six miles an hour,
intersected by flat cliffs, which at present were only a few feet out of
the water. A fine belt of trees lined the bank at a short distance from
the edge of the river, the islands also being clad with rich vegetation,
and, altogether, the locality seemed to me worthy of a slight sketch,
which has been represented in the plate opposite. I had hitherto looked
in vain all along the shore for traces of the elephant, but I discovered
that this part is visited by them in great numbers. The place is called
Tiboráwen. Having indulged in quiet repose for several hours, we were
joined by our companions, who, seeing that I was not to be detained by
their tergiversations, were anxious to come up with us.
[Sidenote: Sunday, July 16th.]
Keeping a short distance from the river, first in a more winding and
then in a south-westerly direction, we entered, after a march of three
miles, more undulating and fresher pasture-grounds; but stony ground
soon began to prevail, although without entirely excluding vegetation.
Here, before we reached the cape called Immánan, meaning the fish-cape,
the several branches of the river united, while a grassy lowland was
attached to the higher bank which bounds the river during the period of
its inundation. This fresh grassy tract, full of herbage and trees, was
awhile interrupted by the high ground attached to the cape; but as soon
as we had left the naked hills behind us, we descended into a lovely
little valley or ravine, which in a winding course led us to the beach
of the river, which here formed a magnificent reach; but a little
further on, at a place called Ekeziríden, it was broken by a ledge of
rocks, which stretched almost across its whole breadth, and, at this
season at least, made it totally unnavigable. A short distance beyond, a
second ledge set across the river, while a little further on a rocky
islet, overgrown with rich vegetation, caused the stream to divide. The
bank itself now became stony, micaslate protruding everywhere, and we
ascended a small ridge, which formed a higher cone at some distance on
our right, while on our left it formed a promontory jutting out into the
river. The whole district is called Béting.
Having descended from this small ridge, we approached nearer the river,
which was here tolerably free from rocks, and then entered a dense but
short tract of forest, full of the dung of the elephant, and traces of
the footsteps of the banga or hippopotamus. Here we had to cross several
watercourses, at present dry, one of which is called Galíndu, and is
said to be identical with the Búggoma, which we had crossed with so much
difficulty before reaching the town of Áribínda. But rocky ground soon
prevailed again; and another promontory jutted out into the water, the
river, which on the whole has here a south-south-westerly direction,
being once more broken by cliffs.
A little further on we encamped opposite a hamlet called Waigun, which
was just building, while another one of the same name was lying a little
higher up the river. However we derived no advantage from the
neighbourhood of this little centre of life, for having no boat at our
disposal we were not able to communicate with those people ourselves,
and they, on their part, felt little inclination to make our
acquaintance, as they could not expect that we should be of much use to
them, except in lightening their stores. My companion, the Kél e’ Súki,
with shouts endeavoured to intimate to the people that their sovereign
lord Bozéri was himself present; but this artifice did not succeed. The
Ímelíggizen, or their slaves, who dominate both shores, are ill-famed on
account of their thievish propensities; and we protected ourselves by
firing a good many shots in the course of the night.
[Sidenote: Monday, July 17th.]
Pursuing our course at an early hour, generally in a south-westerly
direction, we reached, after a march of about four miles, a fine running
stream, about twenty-five feet broad and fifteen inches deep, traversing
a beautifully fresh vale, the slopes of which exhibited traces of
several former encampments of the Tawárek. It joins the river at a spot
where it forms an open and unbroken sheet of water, and greatly
contributes to enhance the whole character of the scenery, although,
about 1200 yards below, it was again broken by a ledge of rocks crossing
almost the whole breadth of the river, but mostly covered by the water,
even at the present season. About 500 yards below this ledge a small
island lies in the midst of the river, occupied almost entirely by a
village called Kátubu, consisting of about 200 snug-looking huts, which
were most pleasantly adorned by two beautiful tamarind trees. But the
peace of the inhabitants appeared to have been disturbed, as they had
probably heard our firing during the night, and were therefore on their
guard. Five or six boats, filled with men, lay around the island at
various distances, most probably spying out our proceedings, although
some of our party thought that they were fishing.
We here left the beach for awhile, and ascended the higher ground, which
rose to a greater height, cutting off a curve of the shore. The river,
further on, was again broken by a ledge of rocks, but so that a passage
remained open on the side of Áussa: and shortly afterwards the various
branches joined, and formed a fine noble reach. The country now became
more hilly and better wooded, being clad with retem, besides kórna and
hájilíj. Numerous ponds of water were formed in the hollows, and
antelopes of various species, including that called “dádarít,” were
observed. Leaving then a path leading to a place called Tákala, situated
at a distance of about fifty miles inland, in a south-easterly
direction, we reached, about a quarter past ten o’clock, the highest
point of this undulating ground, from whence we obtained a view over a
wild and gloomy-looking forest-region, behind which the river
disappeared, after having enclosed a well-wooded island called
Sakkenéwen.
From this higher ground we descended into a fine rich vale, the
vegetation of which was distinguished by a few busúsu, ághanát, or
tamarind trees. Emerging from this richly-clad valley, we again obtained
a sight of the river—if river it can be called—for seen from hence it
looks almost like an archipelago or network of islands and rocky cliffs
in the wildest confusion, the river foaming along through these
obstructed passages. For just as it turns round a cape, which juts far
out to the N.N.W., and is continued under water towards the opposite
shore in a long reef of rocks, forming a sort of semicircle, it is
broken into several branches by a number of islands, through which it
makes its way, as well as it is able, over cliffs and rocks, in such a
manner, that along this south-westerly shore there is no idea of
navigation even during the highest state of the river, but on the Áussa
side it is more open, and renders navigation possible, although even
there caution is evidently necessary. I have no doubt that this is one
of the most difficult passages of the river. The name of the cape is Ém-
n-íshib, or rather Ém-n-áshid, “the cape of the ass.”
Having passed a place where the most westerly branch forms a small
waterfall of about eighteen inches elevation, foaming along with great
violence, we encamped on the slope of the green bank, adorned with fine
herbage and luxuriant hájilíj, in full view of this wild scenery. I made
a sketch of it from the highest ground near our halting-place, which is
occupied by a small cemetery, the locality having been formerly
enlivened by a hamlet of the Ímelíggizen, of the name of Lebbezéya. This
encampment was also important to me, as I here had to take leave of our
guide, Mohammed Kél e’ Súki, whom I had vainly endeavoured to persuade
to accompany me as far as Say, although he would have had no objection
to have fulfilled his promise, if our other guide, Hamma-hamma, had not
broken his word, and stayed behind, for, alone, he was afraid to trust
himself to the Fúlbe. It was, moreover, his intention to proceed from
here on a visit to his friends, the Událen. Convinced, therefore, of the
justice of his arguments, I gave him his present, although I missed him
very much, as he was an intelligent man, and had given me some valuable
information.
[Illustration: Drawn by J. M. Bernatz, from a Sketch by Dr. Barth.