TÓSAYE, OR THE NARROWING OF THE RIVER. — BURRUM; ANCIENT RELATION TO
EGYPT. — GREAT SOUTH-SOUTH-EASTERLY REACH.
At length, in the course of the 8th, my protector returned from his herd
of camels, or, as the Arabs call it, “kissib,” bringing with him seven
fresh camels. He was accompanied by a nobleman of the country, and a
near relative of his, of the name of Sídi ʿAlí. Soon after his arrival,
he came expressly to ask me, whether one of our steamboats would be able
to cross this rocky passage, and I told him that, as far as I had been
able to investigate the character of the locality from this point, I
thought there was not much difficulty for a small boat or launch, at
least during the highest state of the river. In the evening, he sent me
a small bullock to cut up for our journey, and a short time afterwards a
camel, in order to supply the place of the most exhausted of my animals,
and it now appeared as if we were fully prepared to pursue our journey
at a more accelerated rate.
[Sidenote: Friday, June 9th.]
Having taken leave of all the new friends whose acquaintance I had made
here, I started at a rather late hour, first keeping along the shore,
but after having proceeded about 1400 yards, turning away and with a
north-easterly direction entering the stony slope of the desert plateau,
which here consisted of black sandstone in a state of decomposition. At
this spot, where I was obliged to keep away from the bank, the great
rocky ledge, to which Barrór belongs, crosses the river. This rock not
being illumined to-day by the sun, exhibited the same black character
which is peculiar to the whole locality, and there is no doubt that it
intercepts the navigation for larger boats during a great part of the
year.
The bare rocky slope was succeeded by sandy downs, which surrounded and
enclosed small irregular vales, the bottom of which was formed of small
black stones. A little further on we passed the locality called Tin-
rássen, where Sadáktu had once vanquished a superior force led by Ákhbi,
who, notwithstanding the close relation which subsisted between them,
had come to attack him. The women, hurrying forth from the encampment,
had met their kinsfolk with bare breasts, which they held forth to them
as having suckled their kindred, and implored them, for the sake of
their near relationship, not to shed the blood of their own kinsmen. But
this appeal for mercy being without effect, Sadáktu and his handful of
men, inspired with fear for the lives of their wives and children, and
fighting with the courage of despair, had beaten the superior force of
his arrogant relation, and killed nine free men of his tribe.
A little more than half a mile beyond Tin-rássen we again reached the
river, at that remarkable place called Tósaye, or Tósé, where the noble
Niger is compressed between steep banks to a breadth perhaps of not more
than 150 yards, but of such a depth that, as I have before observed, the
bottom has not been found by the natives. Here the Sheikh, who, as in
general, had slept till late in the morning, overtook us, and seemed
much interested when I told him that I thought a small strong built
steamer might safely cross this obstructed passage, as in the case of
the current being too strong, it might be assisted by chains fastened to
the rocks. The locality is of the greatest importance, on account of the
intercourse between the desert and the province of Libtáko, as the Arabs
of Ázawád in general prefer crossing the river at this point, which,
although very deep, is easily passed by the camels and cattle, while in
other places they have to swim for miles.
Immediately beyond this narrowing of the river the sandy downs cease,
and a low stony level, of black, dismal colour, stretched out before us.
The river, winding along this tract in a north-easterly bend, and
illumined by the dazzling light of the sun, scarcely appeared to be the
same large and noble stream which I had admired higher up. The black
stony ground was torn by several small channels, and being only
sparingly clad with the sad-looking poisonous bush the “fernán,”
exhibited a very melancholy appearance. But gradually as we descended
from this rough ground upon the green shore, clothed with the rank grass
of the býrgu, the river again began to widen, and to assume its former
noble character, while a little further on a large island, called “Ádar-
n-háut,” was formed, separated from the main land by a narrow channel.
We encamped opposite the place where the latter again joins the
principal branch, and where, in the present low state of the river, a
ledge of rock was seen projecting a considerable distance into the
water, and numerous isolated cliffs starting forth from its middle
course. I chose my camping-ground a few hundred yards from the shore,
among the trees, where we found some shelter during the hot hours of the
day; and I even remained here during the following night, although all
the people tried to frighten me with the assurance, that the lions which
infest the neighbourhood would not leave a bone of my horses and camels.
We were visited in this encampment by the inhabitants of the opposite
island, who, although belonging to the mixed tribe of the Rumá, have a
much better appearance than their brethren in Bamba. Their chief, of the
name of Mohammed, was greatly distinguished by his fine glossy skin, his
beautiful black and lively eyes, and his regular Circassian features.
The dress of these people, however, is everywhere the same,—white shirts
of the commonest and coarsest make, sewed together of narrow strips
(only persons of higher rank adorn them with a little silk embroidery),
and long white trowsers, besides a miserable bandage of native cotton
tied round the head, over which some of them wore another bandage of red
cloth. All of them had slung over their shoulders the open leathern belt
with which they gird their waists in case of emergency. The intelligence
of these people seemed very limited, and it was impossible for me to
enter into any serious conversation with them. I was, however,
fortunately enabled to buy some rice with cotton strips.
[Sidenote: Saturday, June 10th.]
As if I was destined to spend my whole life in this region, we this day
only moved on three miles, keeping close along the shore of the river,
which here formed several islands, and gradually took a more southerly
direction. The whole of this part of the river, the valley of which,
including the islands, measures certainly more than three miles in
breadth, is called Burrum, and was formerly one of the chief seats of
the Songhay. There is a remarkable tradition that a Pharaoh once came
from Egypt to this spot, and again returned. This story would at least
imply an early intercourse with Egypt, and should not, I think, be
viewed incredulously; for, if it had no foundation whatever, it would
certainly attach to the capital of the nation itself, and not to a place
which possesses no great historical importance. But on the other hand it
is highly interesting to observe, that this is the spot where the great
river, which here makes a bend from a west-easterly into a southerly
direction, is nearest to Egypt. Let it be further taken into account,
that the inhabitants of the oasis of Aújila, which lies on the great
commercial road from Egypt to these regions, were the first who opened
this western part of Negroland to the intercourse of the Arabs. The
whole history of Songhay points to Egypt; the itinerary of the route of
the Nasamones, if rightly constructed, inclines to this quarter; and it
is easily to be understood how Herodotus[33], on receiving the news that
so large a river was running eastward, in such a northerly latitude as
nearly 18°, could conceive the opinion that this was the Upper Nile.
Even in more modern times, we find Egyptian merchants established from
the eleventh century in the town of Bíru, or Waláta, side by side with
those of Ghadámes and Tafilélet; the principal commerce of Gágho and
Kúkia was directed towards Egypt, and the large commercial
entrepôt—Súk—of the tribe of the Tademékka, about one hundred miles from
Burrum, on that great highroad, was evidently founded for that purpose.
Formerly there were three villages, containing a considerable
population, till about eleven years ago[34] the Fúlbe, under the command
of ʿAbd Alláhi, the uncle of the present ruler of Másina, who at that
time was a very energetic and warlike chieftain, made an expedition to
this place with about 6000 horse, and 20,000 foot, while the whole of
the Tawárek, the Awelímmiden, Igwádaren, and Tademékket, collected
together near Tóndibi, did not dare to offer them open battle.
Destroying, then, those villages of Burrum, the Fúlbe transferred the
whole population, consisting of nearly 4000 people, into the
neighbourhood of Gúndam.
A good deal of rice is here cultivated; the cultivation of that article
in this region being said to have proceeded from this very locality, a
fact which is of the greatest interest as regards the ancient
intercourse with Egypt. Even now, those among the rest of the
inhabitants of Burrum who belong to the Tawárek tribe of the Tademékket,
are distinguished for their wealth and their more refined manners; and I
here made the acquaintance of two eminent men among them, named Énnas
and Gedéma, the latter particularly remarkable for his corpulency.
At the place where we chose our encampment, the low grassy shore was
greatly compressed, a steep bank of black sandstone rising to about
thirty feet elevation close behind us, and forming at the top a flat
level, strewn with black pebbles, which, if a person turned his back to
the river, offered almost the same view as the most dreary part of the
waste; but as soon as one directed one’s eyes southward, the picture was
entirely reversed;—a magnificent stream, studded with rich grassy
islands, and affording the most refreshing breeze, appeared in sight.
The Sheikh had so many dealings with the inhabitants of the islands
opposite our encampment, that he was obliged to stay here several days;
but in order to satisfy me, he made us move on a little. However, we
only proceeded for about the distance of a mile, leaving this steep
rocky bank behind us, the ground remaining stony, clad with nothing but
small stunted trees. Here we encamped again near the border of the green
shore, where alone the soil was soft enough to admit the pegs, opposite
a long sandbank, which was the resort of numerous flocks of white
waterfowl. Of course this sort of progress did not exactly suit my
wishes, and in order to soothe my discontent, El Bakáy, soon after we
had encamped, paid me a long visit, in order to cheer me up, telling me
that he had heard that there really had been, as I conjectured myself, a
letter from Háj Beshír, with my parcel, and enumerating those of his
pupils, or télamíd, whom he wanted to send along with me.
There being no stated market-place all along this river, the buying of
provisions is sometimes accompanied with a great deal of trouble; and
although the only produce of this district is rice, that article is
never to be obtained in a prepared state. Nothing but kókesh, that is to
say, rice in the husk, is procurable; and this is a circumstance not to
be overlooked by Europeans who attempt the navigation of this river, as
they must always be prepared to lose some time in getting ready and
cleaning their rice. I here bought the néffeka of this kind of rice for
two drʿa of tári, equal to forty shells. Butter fetched twenty drʿa per
néffeka.
During our two days’ stay in this place, I received some valuable
information from some Arabs of the tribe of the Welád Molúk, who were
settled in Áribínda, that is to say, on the southern bank of the river,
and kept up a small trade with Libtáko, which is distant from here about
ten days’ march. The river being here so broad, it did not at all
surprise me to hear from these people that in average years, during the
lowest state of the river, it is fordable in several places.
Far more interesting than the visit of these mixed Berbers was that of a
man called Mohammed, who, with eight companions was on his way from
Gógó, his native place, to Bamba by water, in a middle-sized boat; thus
proving that the water communication between those places was still kept
up, notwithstanding the total political ruin of the country, and that,
too, at the present season of the year, when the water was at its very
lowest. He was a wealthy man, belonging to the mulatto stock of the
Rumá, and spoke only Songhay. He also brought me the latest news from
the districts farther eastward, and I was glad to hear that, owing to
the rebel army of Zabérma having been beaten by the governor of Támkala,
the road by Say was open.
[Sidenote: Tuesday, June 13th.]
Having had a thunder-storm during the latter part of the night, with a
heavy squall of wind, but without rain, we started at a rather late hour
along the grassy shore, which gradually becomes lower and is filled with
numerous small ponds; till, after proceeding a little more than a mile,
rocky ground began to rise to the surface on our left. It soon assumed
the form of steep cliffs, rising to the height of about 120 feet; but
although during the inundation it is closely approached by the river, at
present a narrow passage was left along the green shore. A heavy gale
raised the waves of the river to a considerable height; but the sky was
so overcast and enveloped in fog that nothing of the opposite shore was
to be discovered.
Numerous small torrents had intersected the cliffs, while a thick bush
of an unknown species lined the foot of them. A little further on, while
slightly decreasing in height, the rocks became more regularly
stratified, presenting numerous crevices and caverns.
Having then passed a place where the cliffs formed a deep recess, the
low grassy shore extending far into the river, we were obliged to ascend
the higher level for a while, an open branch coming close up to the foot
of the rocks. We however descended again after a little more than half a
mile, near two magnificent sycamores, and encamped at 11 o’clock in the
midst of a dense growth of dúm-bushes, while the Sheikh himself pitched
his tent on the top of the downs, near an encampment of Kél-tenákse, a
division of the Kél e’ Súk, to whom belonged also another encampment
upon an island in the river.
The sandy shore, thickly covered with dúm-bush, was represented to us as
the retreat of numerous lions, and we were warned not to encamp here;
but we preferred exposing ourselves to this slight danger, as the strong
wind did not allow us to pitch our tents on the top of the downs. We had
scarcely made ourselves comfortable, when a great multitude of people
belonging to the different tribes settled in the neighbourhood,—Tawárek,
Kél e’ Súk, Rumá, and Songhay gathered round us. Many of them had fine
features, while others bore distinctly the African character. The Kél e’
Súk, who seemed to presume upon their learning, scanty as it was,
brought forward their religious prejudices, and I had a sharp
disputation with them.
The whole of this district still belongs to Burrum. The Rumá seemed to
have also a hamlet of their own in this tract on an island in the river,
and appeared to be tolerably well off. A great deal of rice is
cultivated hereabouts. I bought some, and had it pounded by two females,
one of whom, during her work laughed and made merry almost without
interruption, while her companion, who was of a more sullen temper,
rendered herself guilty of theft, but was caught in the fact.
Almost all the slaves of these Tawárek wear nothing but a leathern
dress, that of the females consisting only of a long apron, while the
males very often provide themselves with a tight shirt or kilt of the
same material.
From all that I observed, I must conclude that the state of the morals
of these Tawárek slaves is very low, particularly those of the Kél e’
Súk. The latter were formerly the inhabitants of fixed settlements on
the borders of the desert, where a great deal of foreign commerce
centred, and have thence contracted manners which were strange to their
origin. But we must remember that from the most ancient times
prostitution, as a proof of hospitality, has been in practice among
various Berber tribes of North Africa.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, June 14th.]
Having staid here during the forenoon, we started late in the day. My
protector remained behind in order to settle some business, while I
proceeded in advance with the most trustworthy of his pupils, first
keeping close along the river, which here seemed to be of considerable
depth quite near the shore, but further on turning away to some distance
from it, through the plain, which was here well clad with small talha
trees. Thus, after a march of about four miles from our former
encampment, we ascended sandy downs, behind which a broad belt of swampy
meadow ground stretched along at a distance of more than two miles from
the river itself. The higher level soon became more rocky, being strewn
with black pebbles, between which numerous footprints of the giraffe
were visible. It was pleasantly undulating, a ledge of sandstone and
calcareous rock intersecting it like a wall. Having here heard from a
shepherd who was watering his flock at a small pond formed by the recent
fall of rain, that there was an encampment at some distance, we gave to
our course a more southerly direction, and soon reached a village lying
at the very brink of the steep bank of the river, consisting of huts,
and inhabited conjointly by some Arabs of the tribe of the Bú-ʿAlí, and
some poorer members of the tribe of the Kél e’ Súk. The huts consisted
of matting, and were very clean and well ventilated, each of them having
two doors, one on the north and another on the south side, both of
moderate dimensions.
It was late in the evening when we arrived here, and there being an
entire want of trees, we had great difficulty in obtaining a little
firewood; nor was there any good býrgu for the horses, the river, which
here divided into two branches, being too deep to allow this rank grass,
which prefers the swampy lowlands, to grow to any extent. The poverty of
the inhabitants, also, could not at all satisfy the wants of my
companions, who were very fond of a good supper; hence El Bakáy himself,
who was well aware of this circumstance, had passed this locality, and,
notwithstanding the lateness of the hour, directed his steps to another
encampment further on. This was also the reason of our following day’s
march being limited to a few hundred yards. We thus exchanged our
encampment at Isábegen for that of El Bakáy’s at Asákan Imbégge; but the
change was by no means advantageous to us, as the high level presented
here a most dreary aspect, being almost totally destitute of trees or
shrubs. The border of the river, however, bore a very different
character, and the swampy lowland extended to a great distance,
intersected by a dead water which at present had no connection with the
river. The profusion of herbage which grew in this locality enabled me
to buy here a good supply of butter, although the country in general
appeared to be very bleak. A large island, also, is formed in the river,
which is inhabited by Songhay, and called Éha. The previous afternoon,
we had observed ahead of us, to the east, a mountain chain called
Áseghárbu, and we now saw it more distinctly, stretching from east to
west 15° south.
We had scarcely pitched our tents, when we were visited by a great
number of Tawárek of the tribe of the Tin-ger-égedesh, who were encamped
at a short distance with their chiefs Amáre and Sadáktu. They were
distinguished by their noble countenance and superior style of dress,
and in both respects resembled the Tarabanása, whose enemies they are.
Most of them wore black tobes, the black alternately interchanging with
a white band; and I counted not less than fifty of them, all decent-
looking men. After a while I became very good friends with them,
although the commencement of our intercourse was rather awkward. They
had had some dealings with Mungo Park, whose policy it was to fire at
any one who approached him in a threatening attitude[35]; and having
lost some of their tribe by his well-directed balls, they kept at first
at some distance from me, viewing me with a rather suspicious and
malevolent eye. But when they observed that I had entered into cheerful
conversation with some of their party, they convinced themselves that I
did not belong to the class of wild beasts, or “táwakast;” for such,
from the reception they had met with from Park, they had supposed all
Europeans to be. I even, to my great astonishment, found here, with one
of the Kél e’ Súk, the life of Bruce, published by Murray in 1835, and
which most probably had been the property of Davidson, the Kél e’ Súk
having brought it from Ázawád, where it had been taken by Hámma, a
younger brother of El Bakáy, who, about the time of Davidson’s journey,
had paid a visit to Tawát and the country of the ʿAríb. It was almost
complete, only ten leaves being wanting, and I bought it for three
benáíg, or strips of indigo-died cotton. It had been used as a talisman,
an Arabic charm having been added to it.
Here, as in general, I allayed the suspicions of the people and made
them more familiar by showing them some pictures of men of various
tribes. Notwithstanding the great distance which separated my tent from
the encampment, none of the women remained behind, all being anxious to
have a look at this curious and novel exhibition; and having been sent
about their business when they came in the daytime, they again returned
towards night in such numbers that my people, being anxious for the
safety of my small tent, which became endangered by these unwieldy
creatures, endeavoured to frighten them away with powder. But all was in
vain; they would not stir till they had seen the pictures, which, in
accordance with the disposition of each, excited their great delight or
amazement. My custom, which I have mentioned before, of honouring the
handsomest woman in every encampment with a looking-glass, created here
a great struggle for the honour; but I was so unfortunate as to hurt the
feelings of a mother by giving the prize of beauty to her daughter, who
was rather a handsome person.
We remained here the following day, when we had, in the morning, a
considerable fall of rain, which lasted several hours, and drenched the
Sheikh and his followers in their leathern tent, while my old and worn
white bell tent, pitched in this open hammáda, withstood the rain
beautifully, to the great astonishment of the Tawárek, who all came,
soon after the rain was over, to see if I had not been swamped in my
frail dwelling, which, before, they had looked upon with contempt.
I had afterwards a very important controversy with the Sheikh’s people,
in which I had to make use of all my energy in order to carry out my
intention of following up the shores of the river; for the Kél e’ Súk
wanted to persuade the Sheikh to enter here the open desert, and to make
straight for the encampment of their chief, Khozématen, who, they said,
would provide me with everything necessary for my further journey. They
were seconded in their endeavour by all the eloquence of Áhmed Wadáwi,
El Bakáy’s favourite pupil, who asserted that, after the heavy rains
that had fallen, the desert afforded plenty of herbage for the horses.
But I opposed these arguments in the most determined manner, assuring
the Sheikh that, even if he should go, I would not, but that I should
pursue my route straight along the river; and, in order to make an
impression on his mind, I reminded him of the distinct promise which he
had given me of conducting me to Gógó. The Sheikh, then seeing that I
was firm, adhered to his word, and it was therefore decided that a
message should be sent to the chiefs of the Kél e’ Súk, to the effect
that they were to meet us in Gógó, while we continued our march along
the river.
Thus we left this cheerless camping-ground in the afternoon, and soon
descended by a gradual inclination from the higher desert tract, which,
however, after the heavy rain that had fallen in the morning, was full
of pools of stagnant water. We then passed several encampments, till we
reached the low grassy shore of the river, when the high ground on our
left was intersected by several dry watercourses, and obliged us,
although only for a short time, to exchange the green bottom for the
rocky slope at a place where a branch of the river, which approached
closely, was full of crocodiles.
Entering then an open grassy plain intersected by several channels, and
making our way with difficulty through this swampy ground, called
Erárar, we reached about dark an encampment of Kél e’ Súk, at the border
of an open branch of the river, which was here about 400 yards broad.
The locality was called Tabórak, though not a single tree was to be seen
hereabouts; the whole district is here still called Éha. The open river
afforded a very pleasant sight, as, during the last few days, I had seen
nothing but swampy creeks. Towards the south-east, the watery plain was
bounded by Mount Tóndibi, which juts out into the river in the shape of
a promontory of considerable elevation. The locality, however, was so
very unhealthy, that I could not long enjoy the fresh air outside, but
was obliged to retire into my tent at an early hour.
[Sidenote: Saturday, June 17th.]
On leaving our camping-ground in the morning, we had to cross two small
creeks, and then keeping along the swampy plain, soon got entangled in a
larger sheet of water, which stretched along the foot of Mount Tóndibi,
and appeared to intercept our passage. We therefore thought it better to
get out of the swampy ground, which here was full of water covered with
water lilies, and to ascend the sandy downs, where we passed another
ámazagh of the Tin-ger-égedesh. There is no doubt that this swampy
plain, for several months of the year, presents one uninterrupted sheet
of water. Thus we ascended the northerly offshoots of Mount Tóndibi,
which formed undulating sandy downs, stretching forth from the foot of
the rocky mount, and richly clad with dúm-bush; but we soon passed them,
and descended again on the other side into the grassy swampy plain, at
present dry, but intersected by a creek every now and then. The river
was at a considerable distance.
A mile beyond, we reached an encampment of the Kél e’ Súk, consisting of
reed huts, and at the instigation of the Wadáwi, in the absence of the
Sheikh, made a halt and unloaded our camels, when we suddenly received
counter-orders, and reloading our camels with great alacrity, proceeded
on our march. The plain was here intersected by several winding
channels, where we observed numerous herds of cattle and flocks of sheep
belonging to the slaves of Khozématen, who, like all the Tawárek, were
about to leave the river, and to enter the region of the desert, and the
mountainous tract of Áderár, where, in consequence of the rains, fresh
herbage was springing up.[36]
Here we ascended the sandy downs, keeping close along the green border
of the bot-há, and passing two small encampments, till we descended
again from the rising ground into the green bed of the valley, which was
here about three miles broad, and richly overgrown with daman-kádda
interspersed between the dúm-bush, with which the small isolated sandy
downs were adorned, besides a little “ʿashur,” tursha, or _Asclepias_.
But we soon received another serious warning not to trust to this low
swampy ground, for we suddenly observed a considerable sheet of water,
which seemed to be connected with the principal river extending in front
of us, so that we were obliged to regain the higher ground.
While riding a while by myself, I was much amused in observing our
motley troop, consisting of about thirty individuals, some mounted on
horses, riding singly or in pairs, others on camels, others again
toiling along on foot, some armed with guns, and some with spears, and
all in different attire, moving along this low swampy ground, where it
rose a few feet above the deepest bottom, and was well lined with bush.
It being then noon, the sun was very powerful, and when we reached the
drier ground, the heat became very troublesome. My companions therefore
were well pleased when we reached a village of the Songhay, or rather of
that division of them which is called Ibawájiten or Ibáujiten, hoping
that they should be able to get some refreshment; but the Songhay, now
that they have lost almost all their national independence, and are
constantly exposed to all sorts of contributions, are inhospitable in
the extreme; and they pointed out to us the encampment of their chief at
a considerable distance along the river, where we were to look for
quarters. The whole district is called Abúba.
Following the example of my companions, who were lightly laden and not
very cautious, I was induced once more to enter the swampy grounds; and,
being obliged to cross two boggy channels, we regained with difficulty
the sandy downs, which were enlivened with three separate groups of dúm-
palms, which adorned a cemetery. Here we encamped in a small field,
enclosed with fernán, but at present empty, the locality being called
Fágoná.
The situation on these high downs was so conspicuous, that my tent,
being visible at a great distance over the valley, attracted a great
proportion of the neighbouring population, among whom there were also
some Rumá. A few of them were even mounted on horses, although of a very
unseemly breed. They were seated upon a very awkward kind of saddle,
which was merely thrown over the horse’s back without a belly-band, and
quite low behind. Their dress was also poor, and of the same character
as that of the inhabitants of Bamba and Ghérgo. All these people belong
to the tribe of the Ibawájiten, and were remarkable for more than
ordinary ignorance. Many of them came to solicit medicine from me; and
one cannot wonder that, in such a locality, a great deal of sickness
prevails, for the whole river is almost entirely lost in a broad shallow
valley of about three miles in width, which, in its present low
condition, bordered by steep banks, was nothing but a labyrinth of small
creeks, intercepting swampy meadow grounds, although, during the higher
state of the inundation, it must be filled up by the river, and form one
large stream. Seeing so few trees hereabout, I was astonished to hear
all the people speak of the number of lions which infested this
district; they even begged us urgently to be upon our guard against them
during the night.
[Sidenote: Sunday, June 18th.]
Having heard nothing of lions or wild beasts during the night, we
prepared early for our departure, but were detained some time, as the
Sheikh had again business to transact as a general pacificator; these
Ibawájiten having purchased two of the slaves whom Sadáktu had taken
from the people of Bamba, and not feeling inclined to return them. At
length we started, but found it extremely difficult to avoid a wide
swampy creek which deeply indented the country, while it afforded a
beautiful field for the cultivation of rice, and even in the present
decayed state of the country, was not left wholly unprofitable. At
length having passed several small channels, we regained the border of
the sandy downs, which were richly clothed with vegetation, although the
melancholy looking fernán bush here also vindicates its right, beside
the retem and the talha tree.
We at length resumed our southerly direction, but were not allowed for
any length of time to follow a straight course across this swampy
ground, being recalled by some of our companions, who conducted us to a
sandy promontory, with projecting granite blocks and dúm bushes, where
the Sheikh had made a halt, opposite an encampment of the Songhay, in
the “Ammas,” as the Imóshagh call the bottom of the valley. Although I
was sorry to break off our march so soon, the view from this place was
highly interesting, as it afforded a distant prospect over the river, if
I may so call a broad swampy valley, hemmed in by steep banks, enclosing
in the midst an abundance of rank grass, and scarcely affording at the
present time the aspect of an open sheet of water, smaller and larger
creeks, and more extensive ponds being formed in every direction. But
the most curious sight was that presented by the river a little higher
up, where corresponding to the deep gulf which we had turned round in
the morning, there appeared on the opposite side another swampy gulf,
the whole width of the valley at that place being scarcely less than
eight miles. It is evident, from all that I saw here, that the navigable
branch of the river runs on the side of Áribínda, that is to say, the
southern bank.
As it had been decided that we should remain here during the night, we
had already pitched our tents, and made ourselves comfortable, when our
companions having been informed that in a neighbouring encampment there
was a better prospect of a good supper, suddenly started off, although a
thunderstorm gathered with threatening appearance over our heads; but
fortunately the encampment was not far distant, and the storm passed by
without rain. This encampment belonged to the Kél e’ Súk, and was very
considerable. The next morning several very decent-looking men were
introduced to me, by my officious friend, Áhmed el Wadáwi, when they
assured me that the whole road to Say was safe. All these people, who
possess a small degree of learning, and pride themselves in writing a
few phrases from the Kurán, were extremely anxious to obtain some scraps
of paper, and I was glad to be still enabled, besides small strips of
black cotton cloth and needles, to give away some trifling presents of
this kind.
When we left the encampment, which was at about 800 yards from the outer
bank of the river, the country assumed quite a different aspect, and we
had soon to descend a rough rocky passage of blackened sandstone,
interspersed with granite blocks, in a great state of decomposition, and
passing several encampments of Tawárek, of the tribe of the Ímedídderen,
we entered a plain richly wooded with talha, hájilíj, retem, fernán, and
the poisonous euphorbia, which, as is generally the case, grew in the
shade of the talha trees.
We very nearly became embroiled in a serious quarrel with the
inhabitants of one of these camps, who seized a small box which I had
given to the Sheikh, and which one of his young slaves was carrying. I
was riding in advance, and the people allowed me to pass unmolested,
contenting themselves with putting some questions to me. The whole
country was in a state of great agitation, a rumour having got abroad
that I, in conjunction with the Sheikh, was to establish here a new
kingdom. But a few considerate admonitions from the more respectable
members of the troop brought the Tawárek to reason; and it was very
curious to witness the theatrical attitudes which one of these simple-
minded but energetic original inhabitants of North Africa made use of,
in order to demonstrate to the author of the riot the absurdity of his
proceedings.
After some slight delay caused by this theatrical _intermezzo_, we put
our little troop once more in motion, following our former southerly
direction, till we were overtaken by a messenger from the Sheikh, with
the order that we were to approach nearer the river. Proceeding
therefore in a south-westerly direction, we soon came to the exterior
embankment of the river reached by its waters during the highest state
of the inundation, and girt by a dense grove of dúm-bush and talha
trees, but destitute of the nutritious býrgu.
In this locality, which is called Kókoro, we made a halt in order to
wait for El Bakáy; but, as he did not come, and as we were unable to
stay in this wilderness where no encampment was near, we moved on in the
afternoon, with an almost exact southerly direction, towards Gógó,
Gʿawó, or Ghágo, the celebrated capital of the Songhay empire. We first
kept along the border of the green swampy creek, which further on
presented an open sheet of water, while on our left, between the dense
dúm-bush, dúm-palms also began to appear. But about two miles further
on, leaving the creek for awhile, we ascended sandy downs, where from
the deserted site of a former ámazagh, bearing evident traces of having
been the resting-place of a numerous herd of cattle, my companions
descried in the distance the tops of the palm trees of Gógó, while I
strained my eyes in vain, filled as I was with the most ardent desire of
at length reaching that place.
Descending then into a slight depression, we reached a larger fáddama,
which soon after was joined by a considerable branch from the north-
west, gradually filling with water as we advanced, and forming an arm of
the river. From beyond the other side, a very comfortable looking
encampment became visible, and almost induced my companions to give up
the plan of reaching the desolate site of the former capital of this
Nigritian empire; but the fine tamarind trees, and the beautiful date
palms burst now too distinctly upon our view to allow me to relinquish
the pleasure of reaching them, without further delay. It was a most
interesting and cheering sight to behold a large expanse of fields of
native corn take the place of the desert. The whole country became one
open cultivable level, uninterrupted by any downs; and I thought at that
moment that we had bid farewell to the desert for ever, and entered the
fertile region of Central Negroland, an expectation which, however, was
not fully realized by what I observed further on. But here, at least,
even in the present decayed state of the country, there were some
remains of industry, and the stubble-fields of sába, or sorghum, were
succeeded by tobacco plantations, and, after a slight interruption, by
ricegrounds under water. However, darkness set in before we reached the
miserable hovels of Gógó, and we encamped on a large open area, bordered
round about by detached huts of matting, from which the ruins of a large
tower-like building of clay rose to a considerable height, and by a fine
grove of rich trees, running on into a dense underwood of siwák. The
river was not visible from this point.
[Footnote 33: Book ii. chap. xxxii. τὴν ὁδὸν ποιευμένους _πρὸς ζέφυρον
ἄνεμον_.]
[Footnote 34: This passage was written in 1854.]
[Footnote 35: It was this policy of Mungo Park, which he no doubt
adopted much against his own inclination, that inspired Major Laing,
when he heard of it in Tawát, with such ominous dread of the fate which
might await himself. In one of his letters which I had the opportunity
of inspecting through the kindness of General Sabine, he exclaims, after
having mentioned that he met a Tárki who had been wounded by Mungo
Park:—“How imprudent, how unthinking! I may even say how selfish was it
in Park, to attempt to make discoveries in this country at the expense
of the blood of the inhabitants, and to the exclusion of all after
communication; how unjustifiable was such conduct!” It was on this
account that Major Laing sent back the sailors whom he had with him, and
almost gave up his design of navigating the river below Timbúktu.]
[Footnote 36: I here subjoin a list of the names of the most celebrated
wells and pasture grounds of Áderár, some of which were at a former
period, the sites of wealthy towns:—Amásin, Áraba, Tin-darán, Yúnhan or
Gúnhan, Súk or e’ Súk, Ijenshíshen, Ázel-adár, Kídal, a very fine
district; Én-déshedáit, Taghelíb, Marret, Talábit, Tadakkét, Ásway, An-
emellen, An-sáttefen, Asheróbbak, Tin-záwaten, Tájemart, Eléwi,
Dohendal, Tin-ajóla, Én-rar, Ejárak, Áshu, Álkit, Takelhút, Dafelliána,
Én-áfara.]