Kidderminster._
You proceed up Broad-street and Islington, through the five ways
toll-gate; when the road inclining to the right, there is a double
range of respectable houses, denominated Hagley-row, which have been
erected by the opulent inhabitants of Birmingham; where they not only
enjoy fresh air, but the parochial taxes of Edgbaston do not bear
any proportion with those of Birmingham. On the right hand is an
observatory, a lofty brick building, seven stories high, which bears
the name of the Monument: it was erected by John Perrot, Esq. about
the year 1758, from whence there is an extensive view over the
adjacent country in every direction. The house adjourning is the
residence of John Guest, Esq. Having passed the one mile stone, the
admirer of nature will proceed with solemn pace and slow, every step
he takes varying the scene; one object being lost to view, which
is succeeded by another equally beautiful. On the left there is
an extensive and picturesque prospect, which continues without
interruption for a considerable distance; and when the scene closes
on that side, turn your eyes to the right, where there is a landscape
equally fine; which, over the inclosures, takes in Smethwick, with
Shireland hall in the front. A very short distance farther on the left
there is an extensive and variegated landscape, with a house called
the Ravenhurst in full view; the prospect being bounded by Bromsgrove
Lickey and Frankley Beeches. At the three mile stone is the
Lightwoods, a neat brick house, the property and residence of Miss
Grundy, from whence there are some enchanting prospects. In these
woods there are small shrubs grow in great abundance, which produce
black fruit, known by the name of bilberries, of which during some
years the poor people make a plentiful harvest.--Ascending the
hill there is a delightful view over the enclosures, commanding the
villages of Harborne and King's Norton; the two parish churches being
conspicuous objects. From the Beech-lane there is a fine view, having
the hills of Clent and Cofton in the distance.
At a place called the Quinton, near the five mile stone, there is a
grand prospect, and from this eminence there arise two springs, one of
which flows into the Severn and the other into the Trent. On the left
is Belle Vue, the residence of James Male, Esq. from whence, as its
name imports, there is a grand panoramic view of the country, that
fills the mind with the most sublime ideas, such as cannot be
described either by pen or pencil. In descending the hill opposite
some cottages, there is a road leading to _The Leasowes._
Wherein the inimitable Shenstone took so much delight, and decorated
in such a manner, that in his days they were spoken of and resorted to
by all people of refined taste, who came within a day's ride; and not
an individual ever left them without expressions of astonishment at
what they had seen and heard from the worthy proprietor, who warbled
forth his verses in such a melodious manner, and on such subjects,
that delighted every ear, as his diversified shady walks did every
eye.
His remains were interred in the church-yard of Halesowen, to whose
memory, some years afterwards, a small stone pillar, with an urn on
the top of it, was fixed near the vestry door, within the church,
but has since been removed within the chancel, to make room for a
magnificent marble monument, to the memory of Major Halliday, executed
by Banks, for which he received about one thousand pounds; there being
on each side of it a figure, large as life; one representing Patience
and the other Fortitude.
On the pillar to the memory of Shenstone is the following
inscription:--
Whoe'er thou art, with rev'rence tread
These sacred mansions of the dead.
Not that the monumental bust,
Or sumptuous tomb, here guards the dust
Of rich, or great,(let wealth, rank, birth,
Sleep undistinguished in the earth.)
This simple urn records a name,
That shines with more exalted fame.
Reader! if genius, taste refin'd,
A native elegance of mind;
If virtue, science, manly sense;
If wit that never gave offence;
The clearest head, the tend'rest heart,
In thy esteem e'er claim'd a part;
Ah! smite thy breast, and drop a tear;
For know, thy Shenstone's dust lies here,
R.G. and J. HODGETS.
A.O.P.
The Leasowes are now in the possession of Matthias Attwood, Esq. and
these delightful walks, although their beauties have been curtailed
to a considerable degree, by conveying the Netherton canal across the
valley, close by them, are still highly deserving the attention of all
persons who take delight in rural scenery; and for the accommodation
of those who are inclined to meditate and contemplate, numerous seats
are affixed, in different directions. Such scenes as these walks
afford are very seldom to be met with in any part of England;
therefore those who are in pursuit of amusement, will not regret if
they devote one day to view them; and as they consist of hill and
dale, it will of course cause some fatigue, which may with ease be
alleviated, there being close at hand a neat and comfortable house of
entertainment, kept by Betty Taylor. The source of the river Stour is
in these grounds.
When near the bottom of the hill, the road divides; that on the right
leads to Stourbridge, and the other to _Halesowen, in Shropshire._
This place has been considered as a borough, by prescription,
from time immemorial, and is supposed to have been represented in
parliament at a very early period; but what ancient writings they were
in possession of, being (as I am informed), conveyed to London and
never returned, they have now none to exhibit. A court leet is held
annually, when two officers are appointed, under the appellation of
high and low bailiff; but I cannot understand that they enjoy any
emolument, or are in possession of any jurisdiction. In the reign of
King John, he founded a monastery here, and the church is supposed to
have been erected about the same period; it being an ancient building,
dedicated to St. John; with a lofty spire. The present incumbent is
the Rev. ---- Robinson. Near a mile distant there are still some
remains of the monastery, and to the professed antiquary there is
probably something deserving of his attention. In digging two holes
to fix a gate, a short time since, there was found a considerable
quantity of stained glass, in small fragments, some few of which are
preserved, as are also some square tiles or quarries, about five
inches broad and one thick, with curious devices upon them. It is now
denominated the manor farm, and is the property of Lord Lyttleton.
Dr. Nash, in his appendix to the history of Worcestershire, gives the
following extract from the papers of Bishop Lyttleton.
_Halesowen Abbey._
This ancient structure was situated about half a mile south of the
town, on what is now called the manor farm, near the road leading
to Northfield. King John, in the 16th year of his reign, granted a
charter to Peter de Rupibus, bishop of Winton, by which he gave the
manor and advowson of the church of Hales, with its chapels, to found
a religious house in this place. In consequence of this grant, a
convent of Praemonstratensians was established A.D. 1218, dedicated to
the Virgin Mary and St. John the evangelist, and furnished with monks
from the abbey of Welbeck, in Nottinghamshire. This religious order
were canons, who lived according to the rule of St. Austin, and
afterwards reformed by St. Norbet, at Praemonstre, in Picardy. They
were called white canons, from their habit; which consisted of a white
cossack, with a rotchet over it, a long white cloak, and a white cap.
They continued under the jurisdiction of the abbot of Praemonstre, who
received contributions from them, till the year 1512, when they were
exempted by Pope Julius 2d. The churches and a large proportion of
the tythes of Walsall, Wednesbury, Rushall, Clent, and Rowley, were
granted to this convent, by successive monarchs, which was also richly
endowed by opulent individuals. The abbot and convent held ten large
farms in their own hands. In the reign of Henry 8th, the clear income
amounted to £380 13s 2d. a large sum, considering the value of money
in those days. In 1489, when the whole number of religious amounted
only to seventeen, there were every week consumed in bread 20 bushels
of wheat and rye. And in the course of the year, 1110 quarters of
barley, 60 oxen, 40 sheep, 30 swine, and 24 calves; a proof that great
hospitality and charity prevailed here at that time. The monastery
consisted of an abbot, prior, sub-prior, sacrist, chanter, cellarer,
and custos infirmorum: the monks never exceeded twenty in number.
At the visitations of their superiors, punishments if requisite were
inflicted for immoralities. The house and church appear to have been
stately edifices; the chancel, if not the whole of the choir, being
paved with flat tiles, painted in a curious manner, some of them
being now occasionally found; and the few ruins still extant cover
an extensive plot of ground, exhibiting fine specimens of Saxon and
Gothic architecture.
Several persons of note have been buried in the church, particularly
John, Lord Botetourt, baron of Weoleigh castle, near the high altar,
under a tomb of alabaster; Sir Hugh Burnell, also baron of Weoleigh;
Sir William Lyttleton, of Frankley, and others, about the year 1507.
This monastery was dissolved A.D. 1558, by Henry 8th. The common
sigillum, or chapter seal, was in the reign of Henry 4th, a
representation of the blessed Virgin, in a sitting posture, with the
infant Christ on her left knee, and in her right hand a sceptre. The
arms of this abbey were, azure a chevron argent, between three fleur
de lis.
The situation of Halesowen is in a deep valley, and the surrounding
country presents the most majestic appearance; being diversified with
hills and dales in such a manner, that at every step you take new
beauties arise, and the scene varies so much, that the eye is
unceasingly delighted, without dwelling upon any particular object.
This district cannot, properly speaking, be described, either with pen
or pencil: the innumerable varieties of similar objects that present
themselves to view, must be seen before any person can form the least
idea of them.
_To Bromsgrove, in Worcestershire, distant thirteen miles,_ _on the
road to Worcester, Glocester, and Bristol._
You proceed up Smallbrook-street, when a spacious road opens to the
left, and being clear of the buildings, the spire of King's Norton
church, which is six miles distant, forms a pleasing object.
On the left you have a picturesque view of the country, which
continues without any intermission nearly the space of three miles.
There is in this valley, what is very unusual to be seen in such a
situation, a windmill; and as you proceed, there are in the same
valley several water mills, that are made use of by the Birmingham
manufacturers. This view is skirted by buildings erected on the road
to Alcester, and when near the two mile stone, you perceive among the
trees, Moseley hall, which is a modern stone building; the residence
of Mrs. Taylor. Exactly, opposite, on the right hand, is the parish
church of Edgbaston, and also the hall, which is surrounded by a park,
wherein are some lofty trees, and an extensive sheet of water. This
mansion house, or hall, is now occupied by Edward Johnson, M.D. a
person of considerable eminence in his profession.
A short distance beyond the three mile stone the road crosses the
Worcester canal; from which bridge, if you look towards Birmingham,
there is a rich and variegated landscape, consisting of hill, dale,
wood, and water. At the four mile stone there is a most extensive
view on each side of the road, and also in front; the spire of King's
Norton church, Frankley Beeches, and the Clent hills, being prominent
features.
Having passed the five mile stone, there is on the right a beautiful
view over the enclosures, backed by the beeches, at Frankley. Before
you arrive at the six mile stone is Northfield, from whence there is
on the left a beautiful landscape; the elegant spire of King's Norton
church being distinctly seen. From hence to Bromsgrove is seven
miles, in great part over the Lickey, where the eye is gratified with
numerous extensive views, from one of the highest spots of land in the
kingdom. This is ascertained by two springs that issue from it, one of
which, flows into the Severn and the other into the Trent.
_To Coleshill, distant ten miles, on the road to Atherstone._
You leave Birmingham through Coleshill-street, and having passed by
Ashted-row, you perceive the lofty trees in Vauxhall gardens, which
must be left on the right hand, and a few hundred yards afterwards,
keeping the right hand road, you pass by, on the right, Duddeston, an
elegant pile of building, the residence of Samuel Galton, Esq. but it
is scarcely discernable, on account of the shrubberies by which it is
surrounded. You now pass through the village of Saltley, and at the
extremity, on the left, is Bennett's hill, where Mr. William Hutton,
the venerable historian of Birmingham resided, and ended his days.
This residence, so denominated by the proprietor, was originally a
very small house, with the entrance in the centre, and a small room on
each side, to which has been added two wings, or rather rooms, being
only one story in height: there is a wall by the road side, five feet
high, the top of which is on a level with the top of the parlour
windows; the entrance to it having been altered from the front to the
side. The eccentricity of the owner appears, by terming that a hill,
which on inspection will be found in a low situation, on the side of
a hill. This is noticed, because his peculiar manner of writing, his
quaint expressions, and the tales he relates of himself, have caused a
considerable sale for his productions, and numerous people, when
they are taking an excursion, will travel some distance to view the
residence of their favourite author.
A short distance beyond, on the summit of the hill, commands an
extensive view of Birmingham, the venerable trees in Aston park, the
spire of that church, and Barr-beacon. As you pass along the road,
this delightful prospect varies every step you take for a considerable
distance. These lands, formerly known by the name of Washwood heath,
being inclosed in the year 1803, now let from forty to fifty shillings
per acre. At the four mile stone, there is on the right a cheerful
prospect over the country, with the lofty spire of Yardley church in
full view. About half a mile farther, on entering a small common, the
eye is delighted with an extensive and variegated view; the spire of
Coleshill church being very discernable.
_Castle Bromwich, distant five miles and a half_.
Here is an ancient venerable mansion, where that eminent statesman,
Sir Orlando Bridgeman, used to reside. His successor having been
honoured with the title of Earl of Bradford, the eldest son of the
present Earl, Lord Newport, has fixed his residence here. In the
village is a neat place of worship, erected by Sir Orlando Bridgeman,
who endowed it with the tythes of the parish, it being a chapel of
ease to the parish of Aston.
About half a century back, when there was considerable traffic
between London and Chester, the road passed through this village,
and supported two respectable inns, but the mode of conveyance being
changed, one of the inns is converted into a farm-house, and the other
has very little custom; for the road from Birmingham to Coventry also
passed through here; but it is totally deprived of that also, and is
now little more than the road to Coleshill. On the road you pass by
Coleshill park, an ancient seat of Lord Digby; within which there are
numerous hawthorn trees of unusual magnitude: one of them produces
five stems, each equal in size to a moderate man's body. Time, that
devours every thing, has here made great havoc among them, and also
destroyed some oaks of large dimensions.
_Coleshill_.
Yew trees being of slow growth, and the wood of close texture, are
little subject to decay; yet there is in this church-yard, the remains
of a yew tree, still alive, three parts at least of which is mouldered
away, and only a small part of the trunk remains.
The architecture of the church is the decorated gothic or English
style: it is erected on a considerable eminence, from whence there
is an extensive and variegated view over the adjacent country. The
interior of the church, which is dedicated to St. Peter, is spacious,
and contains some monuments that are well executed; among others,
there are two recumbent effigies of cross-legged knights, supposed to
be of the ancient Clinton family, and those to commemorate the Digby's
are numerous. It has a beautiful tower, from whence there arises an
elegant spire, which being injured by lightning, it was of course
taken down, and the present erection is not so lofty by fifteen feet
as the former.
Coleshill has a weekly market on Wednesday, and five annual fairs,
where there are numerous horses and cattle exposed to sale. Before the
establishment of mail coaches it was a very considerable post town,
but that is not the case now, the route being changed. The town is
situated on an ascent, and in the valley flows the river Cole, from
whence its name is derived. The domestic buildings are in general of a
respectable appearance, and there are some modern erections that unite
ornament with spacious dimensions.
_Shustock_.
This village is situated three miles from Coleshill, on the road to
Atherstone, and is noticed as being the birthplace of that celebrated
antiquarian, Sir William Dugdale, whose father being a clergyman, he
was born at the rectory house, and dying at Blythe hall, his remains,
and those of his lady, were deposited in a vault on the north side of
the chancel in Shustock church.
_Maxstoke Castle_
Is situated about one mile east of Coleshill, and is erected in the
form of a parallelogram, encompassed by a moat. At each corner is an
hexagonal tower, with embattled parapets. The entrance is by an august
and machicolated gateway, strengthened on each side by a tower of
hexagonal form. The gates are covered with plates of iron, and the
marks of the useless portcullis are yet visible. A portion of this
edifice was accidentally destroyed by fire, but the greatest part of
the ancient building still remains, and is an interesting specimen of
the architectural arrangements in the 14th and 15th centuries. Among
other apartments, are the spacious hall, an extensive dining room,
with a door and chimney piece, which are carved in a very curious
manner, and also the chapel. In the walls of the great court, there
are yet remaining the caserns or lodgments for the soldiers. This
venerable pile of building is now the habitation of Mrs. Dilke. A
short distance from the castle are the remains of a priory, whose
ruins are rendered mournfully picturesque, by the varieties of
ever-green foliage with which they are cloathed in almost every
direction.
_To Hat-borne, in Staffordshire, distant three miles._
Passing up Broad-street and Islington, when you are through the
Five-ways[12] toll-gate, the centre road leads to Harborne. On the
left is a neat white building, called Greenfield-house, the properly
and abode of Hyla Holden, Esq. and a little farther on the same side
of the road is the parsonage-house of Edgbaston; the resilience of the
Rev. Charles Pixell.
[Footnote 12: There are now six ways, Calthorpe's road being opened in
the year 1845.]
Passing by Harborne heath cottage, when you arrive at the summit of
the hill, is an excellent house, where Mr. Richard Smith resides; from
whose premises there is an extensive view over the adjacent country,
particularly Edgbaston and King's Norton.
A short distance beyond, on the right, there is a delightful view
of enclosed ground, and the Lightwoods; with a white-fronted house,
called the Ravenhurst, in the centre, the residence of Mr. Daniel
Ledsam, which altogether forms a beautiful landscape. Where the roads
divide pass on the left, leaving the village, called Harborne Town,
which is principally inhabited by men who obtain a livelihood by
forging of nails, and proceed down the road which leads to Bromsgrove,
where on the left is a preparatory school, for boys under ten years
of age, which is conducted by Mrs. Startin. This house commands a
pleasant view over the grounds that have been laid into a paddock
by Mr. Price, whose neat and elegant residence, with its beautiful
undulated grounds, are also on the left.
A few paces below Mr. Price's, you arrive at a small triangular
grass plot, which is called the cottage green, and is surrounded by
cottages, superior in neatness of appearance to what are usually
met with. From hence there is a most delightful landscape of Mrs.
Careless's house, which is surrounded with verdant meadows, having
a considerable sheet of water in front, and in the back ground are
Frankley Beeches, with the adjacent hills of Cofton and the Lickey.
There are in this vicinity some most delightful prospects, which are
seen to great advantage from the handsome houses of Mr. Green Simcox,
and also of his father, George Simcox, Esq. the former on the right
hand and the latter on the left, as you proceed towards the church.
This is an ancient tower Structure, the body having of late years been
rebuilt in a neat and commodious manner; consisting of a single pace,
well pewed, with a modern gallery at the west end and another at
the north east corner; it is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Peter; the
present vicar being the Rev. Richard Robinson.
From this church-yard the eye is again delighted with extensive and
beautiful prospects; and from thence, proceeding towards Northfield,
a bridge has been lately erected by subscription, which separates
the parishes of Harborne and Northfield, and also the counties of
Stafford and Worcester. The stream of water gives motion to a mill,
belonging to Mr. Price, and feeds the mill pond, which is a fine sheet
of water covering twenty-four acres. Not far from hence there is a
delightful shady walk, which extends through the grounds of Mr. Price
and Mr. Simcox for near a mile, and at intervals commands delightful
and romantic prospects.--Within a few yards of the aforesaid bridge,
the counties of Stafford, Worcester, and Warwick unite.
Returning towards Birmingham, at the sign of the Golden Cross you
pass up Mitchley-lane, which separates the counties of Stafford and
Warwick; the land on the right being in the parish of Edgbaston, the
property of Lord Calthorpe, and on the left in Harborne, belonging to
Theodore Price, Esq. About half a mile up this lane, on the left, at
Fulford's farm, there is an interesting view over Mr. Price's paddock,
of King's Norton, with its lofty spire, Cofton hills, Bromsgrove
Lickey, Frankley Beeches, Cleat hills, &c. &c. Passing by a neat
cottage belonging to Mr. Frears, you come again into the Harborne
road, at Mr. Smith's.