at Warwick, published in the fifth volume of the Memoirs of the
Manchester Philosophical Society, an accurate analysis of the
Leamington water, by which it appears to possess the same genial
influence on the human frame as the water of Cheltenham, which was
then rising into celebrity. There was one very material difference
between the waters of Leamington and those of Cheltenham, there being
at the former place an abundant supply of the mineral water, not only
for drinking but for hot and cold bathing; whilst, on the contrary,
the saline spring at Cheltenham scarcely produced a sufficient
quantity for drinking. The influx of visitors to Leamington now
increased with such rapidity, that every cottager exerted himself to
fit up lodgings, and every house to which lodgers resorted improved
their appearance; in short, new wells were opened, new houses erected,
and not only new streets formed in the old town, as it was now called,
but a plan was drawn for the erection of a new town, which has within
a few years increased in a most astonishing manner.
The Dukes of Bedford and Gordon, attended by their Duchesses, having
visited and remained at Leamington for some time, it induced the Earl
of Aylesford, who is lord of the manor, and of course, proprietor of
the spring, to visit Leamington, where, having made the necessary
enquiries, he gave orders that the spring should be properly inclosed,
at his expense, securing to the poor the benefit of the waters, and
had he lived, it was his intention to have erected baths for their
accommodation. The visitants increasing in number, Mr. Wise has
augmented the number of his baths, there being one cold bath, four hot
for the use of gentlemen, seven for ladies, and one for children, all
fitted up with Dutch tiles, or Derbyshire marble, and furnished for
the convenience of invalids, with hand rails: to each of the baths is
attached a dressing room, with a fire-place in it. Adjoining these
baths there is a small but elegant pump-room; the water being raised
by a horse engine.
In 1810, a fourth well was opened, which is called the Bridge well,
and is situated near the bridge, close to the river: it belongs to Mr.
Robbins, who has erected one large cold bath, three hot baths, and one
for children.--These, with the exception of the last, are accompanied
by convenient dressing-rooms; the water being raised by a horse
engine.
The South well, the property of the Rev. Mr. Read, was opened in the
same year, (1810), where there are one cold bath, formed with Dutch
tiles, three hot baths, one of them being marble, and one for
children: these baths are very neat, but they have not the convenience
of dressing-rooms.
During the same year, (1810), a sixth well was opened on the north
side of the river, where a magnificent suite of baths and a spacious
pump-room are erected, at the expense of twenty-five thousand pounds;
there are twenty in number, hot, cold, tepid, vapour, and shower;
one of them being a chair bath, which is an admirable contrivance to
immerge the invalid, on the chair where he was undressed, into the
bath, in a secure and easy manner.--These baths are spacious, and
admirably constructed with Dutch tiles, and most of them have the
accommodation of dressing-rooms. The water is raised by a steam engine
of two horse power; and to the great credit of the proprietors, they
have devoted one hot and two cold baths to the use of the poor. This
extensive building exhibits a noble front, the central part being one
hundred and six feet in length and thirty in height, to which there
are two wings, each of them extending thirty-feet and in height
twenty. A spacious colonade, formed by double pillars of the Doric
order, encompass it on three sides, all of native stone, makes this
building rank among the first and most magnificent structures in the
kingdom. It was designed and executed by Mr. C.S. Smith, architect of
London. The baths for the use of the ladies are nearest to the river,
and those at the other end are for gentlemen, the entrance to them
being from the two wings. The entrance to the pump-room, which is
extensive, lofty, and of exact proportions, is through folding doors
at each extremity of the central building.--The ornaments of the
ceiling, the cornices, and in fact, the whole interior embellishments,
are chaste and simply elegant. On one side the light is introduced
through seven windows, and on the opposite side by one window of large
dimensions, composed of stained glass. Underneath this window there
are two elegant chimney pieces, formed of Kilkenny marble. At the
western extremity of the room, on an ornamental pedestal of Derbyshire
marble, there is the pump, if it may be so called, it having a bason
in the centre, which is enclosed by a neat mahogany ballustrade. The
visitors receive the water in glasses from beautiful damsels, and to
whom it is usual to give a gratuity. The terms for drinking the water
at these baths is 3s. 6d. per week, exclusive of the gratuity. At the
other wells it is 2s. 6d. per week, and the gratuity. The terms for
bathing appear to be in general, 3s. for a warm bath, 2s. for that
of a child, and 1s. 6d. for a cold bath, with a gratuity to the
attendant.
In the year 1816, a seventh well made its appearance in
Clemens-street, which bears the pompous title of the imperial
sulphuric medical font, and ladies' marble baths. There are here four
baths, with a dressing-room to each, and also an elegant pump-room.
Lest seven wells and fifty baths should not be sufficient to
accommodate the visitors at Leamington, preparations are making for
the eighth well, near Ranelagh gardens, where the baths are intended
to be more splendid than any of the former, and also the pump-room,
under the title of the Spa.
From the hour of seven to nine in the morning is the accustomed time
to promenade and drink the water, though numbers defer it till after
breakfast, and bathe in the evening before they retire to rest.
When the warm baths are not in use, they are invariably kept and shewn
empty, being filled in presence of the visitor, or during the time he
is preparing to use them; the process of filling not requiring more
than three minutes. The cold baths are in general emptied and of
course filled every day, or more frequently if required; but of late
they are not much resorted to, the warm or tepid bath being preferred.
The prevailing opinion among medical men is, that the latter is by far
the more efficacious in most disorders, and more conducive to health
than the former; because, where a person continues immersed in saline
water for some time, it enters into the pores of the skin, and by that
means is more likely to be of benefit in cutaneous or other disorders
for which it is usually recommended.
The houses in Union-parade, Upper Union-street, Cross-street, and
others, being erected, some public-spirited gentlemen, in order to
attract the attention of the public, in the year 1813 resolved to
erect an assembly-room that might vie with, if not excel those of Bath
and Cheltenham.
This, at the expense of ten thousand pounds, was carried into
execution by a pupil of the celebrated Wyatt. The spacious front of
this beautiful edifice is constructed with native stone, wherein no
superfluous ornaments are admitted. In the central part there are a
range of seven windows, supported by light pilasters of the Ionic
order, surmounted by a plain entablature. Two handsome wings project
from the main building, and judiciously relieve it; they contain those
apartments that are usual and necessary appendages to a large assembly
room.--There are two entrances into this building; one on the eastern
side, from Union-parade, through a small porch, supported by four
Ionic columns; the other, the principal entrance, is from Upper
Cross-street, through a pair of large folding doors in the right
wing, into the hall. The hall is spacious and well-proportioned,
the refectory being opposite to the entrance. To the right is
a billiard-room, containing a massive mahogany table, made by
Fernyhough, of London, said to be worth one hundred guineas, and to
the left a flight of stairs conducts you to another billiard-room,
which, although it is not quite so spacious, is equally commodious as
the other. On the same side you enter the ball-room through a pair of
folding doors: this magnificent room measures in length eighty-two
feet, in width thirty-six, and in height twenty-six. From the ceiling,
which is beautifully ornamented with stucco, three superb chandeliers
of cut glass are suspended, which with those in the other apartments
are said to have cost one thousand guineas. The range of windows
aforementioned are furnished with curtains of crimson moreen, edged
with black fringe. On the opposite side of the room there are two
fire-places, the chimney pieces being formed of Kilkenny marble,
highly polished, over which are two ornamental mirrors of large
dimensions. At the upper end is the orchestra, to the left of which
is a door leading into the card room, which is a spacious and elegant
apartment, and beyond it is a reading-room, well provided with the
London and provincial newspapers, to which are added some of the
most esteemed periodical publications. On ball nights, this room is
appropriated for tea. From the month of June till November balls are
held every Thursday night, at eight o'clock, and card assemblies
occasionally throughout the season. The whole concern is under the
direction of a committee, the master of the ceremonies being C.
Stevenson, Esq.
Mr. George Stanley, mason, of Warwick, laid the first brick of the
first house erected at new Leamington, 8th October, 1808. This first
house was built by Mr. Frost, of Warwick, and stands at the corner of
Upper Cross-street, opposite the assembly rooms; in honour of him
there is now a street bears his name, (Frost-street.)
_The Theatre._
This neat building, upon a diminutive scale, was erected in 1814,
immediately in front of the Bath hotel, the exterior appears to be
coated with Parker's cement, and the interior is ornamented with views
of Leamington, Warwick, Guy's Clift, &c, and fitted up with some
taste.
_The Post Office._
This necessary and convenient place for all descriptions of people to
resort to, is situated about two hundred yards east of the church,
where there are gardens, kept in neat order, for the accommodation
of those who wait with impatience for their letters; or they may
promenade from the office to Gordon house.
_Ranelagh Gardens_
Are regularly improved every season, and with their various
amusements, are deserving of attention.
_The Church_
Is an ancient pile of building, dedicated to All Saints, which,
from the great influx of visitors, being found too small for their
accommodation, an entire new wing was constructed in 1816, and it
still requires to be farther extended, or a new one erected. A
moderate subscription from the wealthy visitors would do much towards
it. The officiating minister, the Rev. E. Trotman, is only engaged
to do single duty on a Sunday, but to accommodate the visitors, he
performs a second entire service, and to remunerate him for his
attention, subscription books are opened. During the season of 1818,
another hotel was begun, upon which twenty thousand pounds being
appropriated to the completion of it, is a sum sufficient to render it
equal to any other house of entertainment in the kingdom.
An elegant suite of rooms have recently been opened, entitled the
Apollo, where assemblies were held every fortnight, during winter.
Boarding houses are continually opening every week, and in every
quarter of the town there are good houses in a state of forwardness,
against the present season.
_A Hint from the Editor_.
From the rapid manner in which the buildings encrease at Leamington,
it is evident that there is a superabundance of money, and as soft
water is a scarce article within the town, could not a portion of that
superfluous money be advantageously employed in conveying that useful
and necessary article to the respective houses, by means of a steam
engine, there being a powerful spring at no great distance?
_To Meriden, twelve miles, on the road to Coventry._
You proceed through Deritend and Bordesley, when you take the left
hand road, and having crossed the Warwick canal, the ruins of
Bordesley house are in full view; they having continued in that
state ever since the year 1791, when the house was demolished by an
infuriated mob. The land by which it is surrounded has been parcelled
out, and advertised to be let for building. On the left is a
farm-house, denominated the Garrison, from whence there is an
extensive view over the town of Birmingham; and on this eminence it
is supposed that Oliver Cromwell planted his artillery to overawe the
town; but the majority of the inhabitants being favourable to his
cause, there was no necessity to make use of it; and what gives weight
to this supposition is, that this spot being about one mile and a half
from Aston hall, it is very probable that from thence the artillery
played upon that mansion, as a ball penetrated into the interior of
it. At the distance of three miles and a half, there is a road on the
left, which leads to the village of Yardley.
Having passed the four mile stone, you ascend a gently rising hill,
and when at the summit a delightful and extensive view presents
itself; there being a windmill in the front, and on the left the tower
of Sheldon church is seen, and also the steeple of Coleshill church.
_Elmdon Hall._
The seat of A. Spooner Lillingston, Esq. is an elegant modern pile of
building, on the right of the road, at the distance of six miles. It
is situate in an extensive lawn, interspersed with shrubberies, from
whence there are variegated and extensive prospects, the churches of
Birmingham, Solihull, and Yardley being distinctly seen, backed by
Barr-beacon, the Rowley hills, &c. and withoutside of the lawn the
spire of Coleshill church is a pleasing object. The church, which is a
neat stone building, was erected by Abraham Spooner, Esq. the entrance
is under the tower, which admits of exhibiting to great advantage, an
elegant window composed entirely of stained glass. In the centre is a
representation of the last supper, delicately executed in a circle,
about nine inches in diameter, date 1532. There are also three ovals,
representing Faith, Hope, and Charity, executed in a masterly manner,
apparently about the same period. There is also a neat organ, of a
size suitable to the place.
At a short distance farther, there is on the right a church upon an
eminence, with a delicate spire, at a place called Church Bickenhill;
and a short distance beyond is an extensive and variegated prospect,
with Coleshill church on the left. Having crossed the river Cole at
Stonebridge, at the distance of half a mile on the left is Packington
hall, the seat of the Earl of Aylesford, which is a substantial modern
stone building, situated in a park, wherein are some of the most noble
oak trees that are to be found in the kingdom. There are also numerous
sheets of water, and the church, which was erected by the late Earl,
after a plan of Bonomi's, which is an immense arch, both interior
and exterior, after the manner of the Italians, and is nearly in
the centre of the park. The organ was made by order of Handel, and
presented by him to the late Earl; it being esteemed a very fine
toned one.--The altar-piece represents angels paying adoration to the
Saviour, and is painted in a masterly style by Rigaud.
The archery ground made use of by the woodmen of Ardeu is bounded by a
plantation on the left of the road, about one mile before you arrive
at Meriden. The members of this society hold several meetings each
summer, when they shoot for various prizes. On the ground there is an
elegant building erected, where the members dine, or take refreshment,
and at other times it serves as a general deposit for their bows and
arrows. This is almost the only society of woodmen now in the kingdom.
At Meriden there is a commodious inn, adjacent to which are delightful
gardens, and the accommodation for travellers are excellent.
_To Sutton, distant eight miles, on the road to Lichfield._
You leave Birmingham, through Aston-street and the adjacent buildings
in the parish of Aston, which extend for a considerable distance along
the road. Having passed the buildings, you soon after cross a small
stream of water, that has performed its office of turning a corn mill,
which you perceive on your left hand. This mill was within memory a
forge, for the making of bar iron.--There is another mill upon the
same stream, a short distance above, known by the name of Aston
furnace, which was a blast furnace for the purpose of making pig iron
to supply the forge below, and must have been made use of as such for
a prodigious number of years, the slag or refuse from it forming an
immense heap only a few years back, which has been conveyed away
to make and repair the roads, and in some instances to erect
buildings.[9] This mill has been considerably enlarged, and a steam
engine erected contiguous to it, and is now used as a paper mill. From
an adjacent hill there is a good view over the town of Birmingham.
[Footnote 9: See Hockley abbey, on the road to Wolverhampton.]
A lofty brick wall now presents itself to view, by which the park
belonging to Aston hall is surrounded: it being by computation three
miles in circumference; within which there is a great abundance of
valuable timber, and it is also well stocked with deer. When the wall
recedes from the high road, keep by the side of it, which leads you to
the parish church, and also to the mansion house or hall, which is a
brick building, erected by Sir Thomas Holt, about the year 1636, at
the same time that he enclosed the park. He also erected alms houses,
for five men and five women, which he endowed, with eighty-eight
pounds per annum, out of the manor of Erdington. The hall has of late
years been in the possession of Heneage Legge, Esq. but is at present
unoccupied, and the whole estate is upon sale.[10]
[Footnote 10: Since writing the above, the mansion of Aston, together
with the park, has been purchased by Messrs. Greenway and Whitehead,
of Warwick, who have converted the house into two tenements, disposed
of the deer, turned the park into enclosures, and fallen the timber.]
The church which is dedicated to St. Peter and Paul, is a stone
building, with a lofty spire, and contains several monuments of the
Holt family; it is also ornamented with two windows of stained glass,
by Eginton. In the church-yard there is a remarkable grave stone,
which is fixed east and west.[11] The present incumbant is the Rev.
Benjamin Spencer, L.L.D.
Sir Lister Holt, the late proprietor of this estate, not having any
children, and being at variance with his only brother, (who succeeded
to the title), he entailed the estate upon four different families,
none of whom had or are likely to have any children, although they
have been in possession of it for the space of near forty years.
[Footnote 11: It is a thick stone, about two foot in height, on which
is the following inscription:--
EAST SIDE;
HERE
LIETH THE
BODY OF
REBECKAH
PEMBORTON
WIF OF ISAAC
PEMBORTON
BVRI 27 OF
DECEM 1660
HERE
LIETH THE
BODY OF
ISAAC PEM-
BERTON HE
DEPARTED
DECEM 4: 1697
AGED 76
WEST SIDE.
THO I AM
HERE LAID
LOW IN GRAVE
THINK ON THE
COVNSEL WICH
I GAVE THO TRO
VNLES MAY TO Y
DECEND: A GRAC
LOVS BLESSIN
IN THE END
THE FIRST
STONE SET VP
IN THIS YARD
THO OTHERS SINCE
MORE FINLY CARVED
WAS IN REMEMBERANCE
OF SHE
AN OBJECT OF
MORTALITY]
Returning into the main road, you perceive on the left a double row of
lofty elms, that extend about half a mile; and at the termination of
the vista, Aston hall and the lofty spire of the church produce a
grand effect. On the right there is a sheet of water that turns a mill
for the use of the Birmingham manufacturers. You soon after cross
Salford bridge, to the right of which is an aqueduct that conveys the
Birmingham canal over the river Tame. The village of Erdington does
not contain any object deserving of attention, but a little beyond
on the right is Pipe hall, an ancient seat of the Bagot family, now
occupied by the Rev. Egerton Bagot.
In the vicinity there are several neat houses, which are chiefly
inhabited by wealthy people, who have retired from Birmingham. A short
distance from hence Mary Ashford was found drowned on the 27th May,
1817.
About the fifth mile stone, the eye is gratified on the left with
an extensive view over the country, which continually varies for
a considerable distance, until a most beautiful and picturesque
landscape presents itself; a white house belonging to a mill and an
extensive sheet of water being in front, Barr-beacon in the back
ground, and the woods in Sutton park on the right.
_Sutton Coldfield._
This remarkably neat and clean town is situated about midway between
the town of Birmingham and the city of Lichfield; lying south from the
latter place, its name is supposed to be derived from South Town, and
by corruption, Sutton. There is a very considerable portion of land
near this town, where travellers say the air is equally sharp and cold
as it is upon the highlands of Scotland, and from this circumstance
the latter part of its name originates. Independant of this tract of
land, there is another contiguous to it, which is denominated the
park, wherein a part of the Roman road, called Icknield Street, still
remains perfect; there is also a spring called Rounton well, whose
water is remarkably cold and produces a very copious stream, to which
numerous people who are afflicted with cutaneous disorders resort,
and derive considerable benefit from drinking and bathing therein. It
cures the most virulent itch in the human species, and also the mange
in dogs, if sufficient care is taken to wash them well in the stream,
but a slight washing will not produce the desired effect.
The church is an ancient stone building, dedicated to the Holy
Trinity, and the present rector is the Rev. John Riland, who is also
patron of the living. Within the church there is an organ, and some
monuments deserving of attention; there are also three vaults, two
of which having been opened, the coffins and their contents were
mouldered into dust, although they had been deposited there within the
memory of man.
This town was incorporated by the eighth Henry, at the solicitation of
Vesey, bishop of Exeter, who was his chancellor, and a native of this
place. It is denominated a corporate body, by the name of the warden
and society of the king's town of Sutton Coldfield, and consists of
twenty-four members besides the warden, with a grant to them of the
whole manor and lordship of the parish, together with a tract of waste
ground, called the park, containing about 3500 acres, wherein is
great abundance of valuable timber, on condition of paying into the
exchequer a fee farm rent of fifty-eight pounds per annum.
The said Bishop Vesey erected fifty-one stone houses in the parish and
also a free grammar school, which he liberally endowed with land, and
ordained by the statutes, that the master should be a layman, which is
strictly adhered to. He also procured for the inhabitants a market,
and the extraordinary privilege that every person who erected a house
in Sutton, should be entitled to sixty acres of land in the park.
Here are two fairs annually, for horses, neat cattle, and sheep; the
one on Trinity Monday and the other on the 8th of November; when, for
every horse that is sold, a toll must be paid of four-pence, and a
reputable voucher produced by the person who sells it; the marks
and age of the animal being registered. By the same charter, the
inhabitants of Sutton are exempt from toll in all fairs and markets.
The deputy steward or town clerk holds a court of record every three
weeks, for the trial of civil actions, and holds to bail for forty
shillings and upwards.
Sessions, court leet, and other customary courts are held, and the
charter expressly says, that they shall have and exercise as much
privilege and power as the city of Coventry; but this they do not
practise, for they commit felons to the county gaol. Every inhabitant
is a landed man, which is drawn by ballot every four years; and no
county officer can enter this franchise, to arrest, &c. without
especial license.
The town of Sutton is seated on such an eminence, that although there
are fourteen large pools of water within the parish, and some of them
very extensive, there is not the smallest stream runs into it; the
town being supplied with water by springs within it. The air is very
salubrious, the water in general soft, the situation delightfully
pleasant, the neighbourhood genteel, and accommodations in general
very excellent. In the vicinity is Four-oaks hall, the seat of Sir
E.C. Hartopp; Moor hall, the residence of ---- Hacket, Esq. and
Ashfurlonghouse, which is at present unoccupied.