and at the same time thinks of the pleasure a good hammock will afford
under some shady tree or on a sheltered piazza. Hammock making is quite
easy and the tools necessary are simple. First, a netting needle is
required. There are two styles of these needles, which are shown in
the diagram. In the top one the cord is brought round the end at =A=,
up one side, round the pin at =B= and back the same side, the process
being repeated on the other side of the needle. This needle is made of
hardwood such as boxwood, and is 8 inches long by ¾ inch wide.
The needle shown in the middle diagram has the cord wound round it as
in an ordinary shuttle.
[Illustration: NETTING NEEDLES AND MESH STICK]
The mesh stick, the lower illustration, which also shows a cross
section, is made of hardwood or bone and is about 5 inches long and
oval in shape.
At one end of the string to be used for the net, tie a loop and place
the knot on a nail fixed in some convenient position. Place the mesh
stick under the loop as shown by =A= in the diagram, put the cord under
it, then pass the needle through the loop and pull the cord taut.
[Illustration: LOOP IN MESHING FIRST STAGE OF MESHING]
Now place the thumb of the left hand on the cord beyond the loop, as
shown in the next diagram, and with a turn of the wrist of the right
hand throw the cord to the position shown at =B=, then pass the needle
under the loop =C=, through the bight =B= and down as at =D= and draw
the knot tight.
[Illustration: SECOND STAGE IN MESHING]
When this has been done the loop will assume the shape seen in the
diagram illustrating the third meshing stage. The cord must be held
firmly with the thumb at =A= when pulling up the knots, as the
uniformity of the meshes depends on this.
To continue the netting the stick is withdrawn and placed under =A=, in
the third meshing diagram. The needle is then passed under the stick
as before, brought through the loop =B= and as before to form another
mesh. This is continued to make a chain of meshes, say forty-five or
fifty, sufficient for the width of the hammock. The loop =A= originally
tied is then unfastened and it will be found that the meshes are all of
the same size.
[Illustration: THIRD MESHING STAGE CHAIN OF MESHES]
The chain is then opened out at right angles to the line in which it
was made, shown in the next diagram, and working across is begun by
making a mesh at =A=, then at =B=, =C=, and so on, until the length of
the first lot of meshes has been reached, when the net is turned over
and another row of meshes worked in the same manner.
To insure uniformity it will be well to put the loops, =D=, =E=, =F=
and =G=, separately on the hook or nail as the meshes under them are
made. After a little practice a cord may be reeved through the top line
of meshes, tied into a loop and passed over the knee and then over the
foot as the work progresses.
[Illustration: BEGINNING OF CROSS NETTING HAMMOCK CLEW]
An ash stick may be used at each end to which the end meshes are looped
and tied, and a piece of codline may be passed through the side meshes
on each side and attached to the ends of the sticks. At each end a
stout cord is secured to the stick in the form of a triangle for
hanging the hammock. Another plan is to tie a number of cords together
by doubling them in the center and forming a loop, and each of the free
ends is attached to one of the meshes of the net. The best plan is to
reeve a cord about the size of a little finger through the end meshes
and splice it into the form of a grommet. A thimble, =A=, is fixed in
the end to which the supporting cords are attached and the cords which
are reeved through the side meshes are spliced into the eye =B= at =C=.
When these clews are used the net must be made longer than for sticks.
STRENGTH OF ROPE, ETC.
Rope is measured by its circumference. A four-stranded rope is about
one-fifth weaker than a three-stranded one.
Generally blocks should be three times the size of the rope which it is
intended to reeve in them.
The hauling part bears twice the strain of the standing part of a fall,
the pin of a block is often more worn on one of its sides than on the
other and should be turned frequently.
Sheaves and pins of blocks should be carefully examined at short
intervals.
BREAKING STRAINS, ETC.
HAWSER-LAID ROPE RULE
Square the circumference and divide by 3 for the breaking strain; in
tons. Divide by 4 for the proof strain; divide by 6 for the working
strain.
WORKED EXAMPLE
A rope 4 inches in circumference; required the breaking strain.
4 inches in circumference.
× 4
----
÷ 3) 16
----
_Ans._ 5.3 tons = breaking strain.
====
4 inches in circumference.
× 4
÷ 4) 16
----
_Ans._ 4 tons = proof strain.
====
4 inches in circumference.
× 4
----
÷ 6) 16
----
_Ans._ 2.7 tons = working strain.
====
To find what weight a rope will lift when rove as a tackle.
Multiply the weight the rope is capable of suspending by the number of
parts at the movable block and subtract ¼ of this for resistance.
To determine the relative strength of chain and rope.
Consider the proportional strength to be 10 to 1, using the diameter of
the chain and the circumference of the rope; ½-inch chain may replace
5-inch rope.
Table showing the sized wire rope which may be used as a substitute for
hempen rope.
Hemp Rope Wire Rope
Inches Inches
3 1½
4 1¾
5 2
6 2½
7 3
8 3½
9 4
10 4½
11 5
STEEL WIRE ROPES
1. The four qualities of steel wire used for wire making are:
=Breaking Strain p.s.i.=--Extra plough steel, 110 to 120 tons. Mild
plough steel, 95 to 100 tons. Best patent steel, 80 to 85 tons.
Bessemer steel, 40 to 45 tons.
2. =Specifications.=--Specification should state: (1) Length of rope.
(2) Size of gear. (3) Speed. (4) Load, _exclusive of rope_. (5) If for
wet workings. (6) Gradients. (7) Particulars of curves.
3. =Working Load.=--The maximum working load at average speed,
including weight of rope, should not exceed a tenth of the breaking
strain as tabulated on page 156.
4. =Sheaves and Barrels.=--Great care should be taken that wire
ropes are not worked round drums or over pulleys of insufficient
circumference, that they do not strike against any hard substance while
in motion. They should be about 30 times the circumference of the rope
in diameter.
5. =Uncoiling.=--Much care should be taken in uncoiling wire ropes, to
prevent kinking. The coil should not be laid stationary, but should be
placed on a turntable or reel and unwound from the outer end.
6. =Grease.=--To prevent corrosion, all working ropes should receive a
regular dressing of wire rope grease thoroughly laid on.
7. =Starting.=--The greatest strain on a rope being at the moment of
starting, every care should be taken to insure perfect steadiness of
movement, as jerking is ruinous to ropes.
Weights and Breaking Strengths of Round Wire Ropes.
+--------+----------+--------+-------+-------+-------+--------+
| Diam. | Circumf. | Lbs. | | Best | Best |
|Inches. | Inches. | per | Plough Steel |Patent |Bessemer|
| | | Fathom.| Extra.| Mild. |Steel. | Steel. |
+--------+----------+--------+-------+-------+-------+--------+
| | | | Tons. | Tons. | Tons. | Tons. |
| ½ | 1½ | 2¼ | 8½ | 7½ | 6¼ | 3¼ |
| | 1¾ | 3 | 11½ | 10 | 8½ | 4¼ |
| ⅝ | 2 | 3¾ | 15¼ | 13 | 11 | 5½ |
| | 2¼ | 5 | 19¼ | 16½ | 14 | 7 |
| ¾ | 2⅜ | 5½ | 20 | 17¼ | 15½ | 8 |
| | 2½ | 6¼ | 23¾ | 20¼ | 17½ | 8¾ |
| ⅞ | 2¾ | 7½ | 28¾ | 24½ | 21 | 10½ |
| | 3 | 8¾ | 34¼ | 29¾ | 25 | 12½ |
| 1 | 3⅛ | 9½ | 36½ | 32 | 27 | 13½ |
| | 3¼ | 11¼ | 40 | 34 | 29 | 14¾ |
| | 3½ | 12¼ | 46½ | 39¼ | 34 | 17 |
| | 3¾ | 14 | 53½ | 45¾ | 39 | 19½ |
| 1¼ | 4 | 16 | 61 | 54 | 44½ | 22¼ |
| | 4¼ | 18 | 69 | 62 | 50 | 25 |
| | 4½ | 20 | 77 | 70 | 56 | 28 |
| 1½ | 4¾ | 22½ | 86 | 76½ | 63 | 31 |
| | 5 | 25 | 95 | 85½ | 70 | 34½ |
| | 5¼ | 27 | 105 | 96 | 77 | 38½ |
| 1¾ | 5½ | 30 | 115 | 106 | 84 | 42 |
| | 5¾ | 33 | 126 | 114 | 92 | 46 |
| | 6 | 36 | 138 | 125 | 100 | 50 |
| 2 | 6¼ | 39 | 155 | 133 | 120 | 60 |
+--------+----------+--------+-------+-------+-------+--------+
INDEX
Artificial Eye, 119
Back-Handed Sailor’s Knot, 97, 98
Bale Slings, 84, 85
Belaying Pin Splice, 102
Bend Hawsers, 100
Bend Shortening, 71
Bending Sheet to Clew of Sail, 123
Blackwall Hitch, 44
Boat Knot, Simple, 95
Boat Knot with Thole Pin, 96
Boltrope, 14
Bow Knot, Double, 74, 75
Bow Knot, Single, 74, 75
Bow Shortening, 71, 72
Bowline Bend, 47, 48
Bowline Knot, 25, 26
Bowline Knot, Standing, 28
Bowline on a Bight, 27
Bronze Rope, 18
Builders’ Knot, 73
Builders’ Knot, Double, 74
Buntline Hitch, 38
Burton, Spanish, Double, 82, 83
Burton, Spanish, Single, 81, 82
Butt Slings, 84
Cable-Laid Rope, 13
Can Hooks, 84, 85
Capstan Knot, 96
Carrick Bend, 48
Carrick Bend, Double, 48, 49
Catspaw, 72
Chain Fastening, 90
Chain Fastening to Sheaves, Double, 91
Chain Hitch, 49
Chain Knot, 68
Chain Knot, Double, 69, 70
Chain Splice, 115, 116
Clinch, Outside, 28
Clinch, Running or Inside, 28
Clinch, Simple, 28
Clove Hitch, 39, 73
Coir Rope, 14, 18
Crabber’s Eye Knot, 37, 38
Cringle on a Crown, 127
Cringles, 125, 126
Crossed and Square Fastening, 92
Crossed Running Knot, 30, 96
Cross Lashing, 103
Cross Netting, 150
Crowning, 56
Crown Knot, 57
Cut Splice, 116
Dead-eye Lashing, 101, 102
Diamond Knot, Double, 63, 64
Diamond Knot, Single, 62, 63
Dog Shank, 70, 71
Double Blackwall Hitch, 41, 42
Double Builders’ Knot, 74
Double Knot, 22
Double Wall Knot, 56
Durable Rope, 18
Englishman’s Knot, 33
Eye Splice, Rope, 115
Eye Splice, Wire Rope, 130
False Knot, 31, 32
Fender, Round or Pudding, 141
Fender, Soft, 142
Fibres, 12
Figure of 8 Knot, 21
Fisherman’s Bend, 46, 47
Fisherman’s Knot, 33
Five-Fold Knot, 22
Flemish Eye, 119
Flemish Knot, 76, 77
Galvanized Iron Wire, 18
Granny, 31, 32
Grommet, 118
Gunner’s Knot, 99
Half Hitch, 36
Half Hitch and Seizing Bend, 47, 48
Hammock Clew, 150
Hammock Lashings, 14
Hawser Bend, Simple, 47
Hawser Rope, 13
Hawsers, 18
Hemp Rope, 18
Junk, 14
Jury Knot, 108
Killick Hitch, 42, 43
Knot Shortening, 71, 72
Lanyards, 14
Lark Boat Knot, 94, 95
Lark’s Head, 88, 89, 96
Lark’s Head, Double, 97, 98
Lark’s Head, Stoppered, 96
Lark’s Head, Treble, 97, 98
Lark’s Head with Crossed Ends, 97
Lark’s Nest, 57
Lengthening the Rope of a Sail, 122
Long Splice, Rope, 114
Long Splice, Wire, 131
Loop Fastening to Sheaves, 91, 92
Loop Knot, 23, 24
Loop Knot for Large Cordage, 24
Loop or Bend Shortening, Simple, 71
Lubber’s Knot, 32
Magnus Hitch, 43
Malay Hitch, 145
Manila Rope, 18
Marling Hitch, 42
Marlinespike, 118
Marlinespike Hitch, 43, 44
Manrope Knot, 57, 58
Matthew Walker Knot, 59, 60
Matthew Walker, Double, 60, 61
Meshing Loop, 147
Metallic Rope, 18
Midshipman’s Hitch, 42
Mousing a Hook, 100
Necklace Tie, 103
Nettle Stuff, 14
Netting Needles, 146
Nippering or Packing, 104
Oakum, 14
Open-Hand Knot, 32
Ordinary Knot or Tie, 34
Overhand Loop, 21
Packing Knot, 106, 107
Parbuckle, 84
Parcelling, 124
Pass a Life Line, To, 85
Pass a Stropper, To, 86
Paunch Mat, 134
Pitcher Knot, Single, 23
Pitcher Knot, Double, 108, 109
Point a Rope End, To, 52, 53
Portuguese Knot or Necklace Tie, 103
Pricker, 118
Purchases--
Burton, 81
Double Luff Tackle, 80, 81
Four-fold, 81
Gun Tackle, 79, 80
Handy Billy, 80
Luff Tackle, 80, 81
Runner, 79, 80
Runner and Tackle, 82
Three-fold, 80
Up and Down Tackle, 81
Watch Tackle, 80
Whip, Double, 79
Whip, Single, 79
Put a Strop on a Spar, 87
Racking Seizing, 109, 110, 111
Reef Knot, 31, 73
Roband Hitch, 39
Rolling Hitch, 40, 41
Rope, 11
Rope Yarn Knot, 35
Rose Lashing, 103
Round Fender, 143
Round Turn and Two Half Hitches, 43, 44
Running Bowline, 26
Running Knot, 75, 76, 77
Running Knot Checked, 75, 76
Running Knot Crossed, 30, 96
Running Knot in Eye of a Rope, 101
Running Knot, Simple, 96
Running Knot with Check Knot, 24
Running Noose, 29, 30
Sailors’ Knot Fastening, 94
Secure Lead Line to Lead, 100
Secure a Rope Round a Belaying Pin, 93
Secure a Rope Around a Cleat, 93
Selvagees, 120, 121
Sennit, 14
Sennit, Crown, 140
Sennit, Square, 141
Serving, 124
Shell Lashing, 103
Sheep Shank or Dog Shank, 70, 71
Sheet Bend, 46, 47
Shortening Tie, 34
Short Splice, Rope, 112
Short Splice, Wire, 129
Shroud-Laid Rope, 13
Shroud Knot, 64
Simple Boat Knot, 95
Simple Hitch, 21
Simple Knot, 21, 73, 74
Simple Running Knot, 23
Simple Stoppered Loop, 88
Single Plait or Chain Knot, 68
Six-Fold Knot, 23
Sling a Cask on End, 86
Slip Clinches or Running Knots Seized, 29
Slip Knot, Stoppered, 98
Slip Knot Secured by Slip Clinch, 99
Slippery Hitch, 39, 40
Slippery Ring Knot, 94
Snaking and Seizing, 65
Spanish Burton, 81, 82
Spanish Burton, Double, 82, 83
Spanish Windlass, 83
Spritsail Sheet Knot, 66
Spun Yarn, 14
Square Fastening, 93
Stationer’s Knot, 77, 78
Steel Rope, 18
Stopper Knot, 57, 58
Strands, 12
Stun’sail Halyard Bend, 44, 45
Sword Mat Splicing, 138
Sword Matting, 136, 137
Tail Jigger, 87
Tent Pole Knot, 75, 76
Throat Seizing, 120
Thrum Mat, 140
Timber Hitch, 36, 37
Timber Hitch for Towing Spars, 37
Toggles, 107
Tomfool Knot, 23
Topsail Halyard Bend, 45
Treble Knot, 22
Turk’s Head Knot, 58
Twine, 14
Twist Knot, Single, 69, 74
Twist Knot, Double, 74, 75
Twisted Rope Fastening, 89
Underhand Loop, 21
Useful Band, 106
Wall Knot, 54, 55
Waterman’s Knot, 89, 90
Weaver’s Knot or Tie, 32, 33
Wedding Knot or Rose Lashing, 102, 103
Weaving, Simple, 144
Whip a Rope, To, 50, 51
Whipping, American, 103
Whipping, To Finish, 105
Whipping, Palm and Needle, 51, 52
Whipping, West Country, 104
Wire Hawsers, Steel, 130
Wire Rope, 18
Wire Rope Eye Splice, 130
Wire Rope into Endless Band, To Splice, 131
Wire Rope Long Splice, 131
Wire Rope Splicing, 128
Wire Splice, Short, 129
Worming, 124
Yarn, 12
Transcriber’s Notes.
Italic text is indicated with _underscores_, bold text with =equals=.
Small/mixed capitals have been replaced with ALL CAPITALS.
Evident typographical and punctuation errors have been corrected
silently. Inconsistent spelling/hyphenation has been normalised.
To improve text flow, illustrations have been relocated between
paragraphs. Where necessary, references to illustrations in the text
have been modified to reflect the change in position.
New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the
public domain.