or thimble and is formed by unlaying the end of a rope for a short
distance and then laying three strands upon the standing part so as to
form an eye. Put one end in the strand next to it in the same manner
as for the short splice. Then put the next end over that strand and
through the second and put the remaining end through the third strand
on the other side of the rope. Taper them, divide the strands and put
them in again. To finish off split the strands and take half of each,
seizing them together, and cut the ends off. When serving is used the
strands should be tapered off.
[Illustration: CHAIN SPLICE]
=A Chain Splice= is used for splicing hemp tails into chain when
required to travel through a block or fairlead, such as earrings and
outhauls for forecastle and quarterdeck awnings. To make a chain
splice unlay strands rather more than for an eye splice, then unlay the
strand, =A=, for a few inches. Reeve the two remaining strands, =B= and
=C=, through the link in the end of the chain; continue unlaying the
strand, =A=, and lay up strand, =B=, in its place for about a foot,
then half knot it and tuck as for a long splice. Then tuck the strand
=C= as for an eye splice.
[Illustration: CUT SPLICE]
=A Cut Splice= is made by laying two ropes in the position indicated
in the upper diagram. Leaving the ropes between =A=, =A=, to form an
oblong loop, tuck the strands of one rope into the other as done in the
eye splice. Splices are often wormed, parcelled and served.
It is rather difficult to force apart the twisted strands of ropes.
For this purpose a marlinespike is used for large ropes. This is made
of iron, copper or hard wood. Copper is preferable as it does not rust
like iron or break like wood. A steel pricker is used for small stuff.
For very large ropes a fid, which is a tapered wooden pin usually made
of lignum vitæ, is used.
[Illustration: MARLINESPIKE PRICKER (ABOVE)]
=A Grommet= is a ring of rope. To make it cut a strand about three
and one-half times the length of the grommet required. Unlay the rope
carefully and keep the turns of the strand in. Close up the strand in
the form of a ring as shown in the first diagram and then pass the
ends round and round in their original lay until all the intervals are
filled up as shown in the second diagram. Then finish off the two ends
as in a long splice.
[Illustration: GROMMET]
=An Artificial Eye= is made somewhat like a long splice. Take the
end of a rope and unlay one strand; lay the two strands back to the
standing part of the rope; pass the strand which has been unlaid over
the end and in the intervals round the eye, until it returns down the
standing part and lies under the eye with strands. Then divide the
strands, taper them down and serve them over with spunyarn.
[Illustration: ARTIFICIAL EYE FLEMISH EYE]
=The Flemish Eye= is a little more difficult to make. The rope is
first whipped and the strands unlaid to the whipping and opened out,
separating each rope yarn. Take a piece of wood the size of the
intended eye, =A=, between and along it lay three or more stops, hitch
over the yarns and tie with the overhand knot crossing them somewhat;
seize the ends and worm them between the strands at the shoulder. Then
marl all down, parcel and serve the ends.
[Illustration: THROAT SEIZING]
=Throat Seizing= is made by opening the end slightly and lashing it to
the standing part. The ring shown in the diagram is one of a variety
occasionally used. It is useful to pass other ropes through in the
rigging. Another ring is formed by lashing the two ends of a short
piece of rope to the side of a long one, looping the short piece to
give the requisite ring.
[Illustration: SELVAGEE]
=A Selvagee= is used to form a neat stropping for blocks or to go round
a spar to which a hook is to be fastened. To make a selvagee strop
drive a couple of bolts or large nails into a piece of plank, or any
convenient place, or else seize a couple of hooks which will answer the
same purpose. Put the nails or hooks at the required distance apart,
according to the length of strop needed. Take the end of a ball of rope
yarn and make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks. Pass it round the
other spike and keep passing roundabout turns, taking care to have
every turn well taut until the strop is the required thickness. If it
is to be a very large strop marl it down with spunyarn; if a small
strop use two-rope yarn.
[Illustration: SELVAGEE FASTENING BLOCK TO ROPE]
=To Lengthen a Rope of a Sail with a Single Strand.=--To do this is
necessary when a sail is increased by the addition of, say, one cloth.
Then the foot rope must be lengthened. Suppose the width of the cloth
is 2 feet and the size of the rope 3 inches. After ripping the rope off
four cloths, first cut the strand at the distance 2 feet 6 inches from
each other, as shown in the diagram below.
[Illustration]
Cut one strand at =A= and unlay it to =C=, then cut one of the
remaining strands at =C= and unlay it to =B=, laying the strand =A= up
again as far as =B=. Then cut the remaining strand at =B=, which will
be the center, and the rope will be in two parts, as seen in the
diagram above.
Now marry the long end =A= to the end =B=, then lay up the long strand
=A= and marry it to the other strand =B=, as in the diagram below.
[Illustration]
Take a strand about 10 feet in length of the same size rope and marry
one end to the short strand =A=, as shown in the diagram. Fill up the
space left from =A= to =C= by laying in the new strand and marry the
other end to the short strand =C=. There will then be four splices to
finish off as ordinary long splices.
[Illustration: BENDING SHEET TO CLEW OF SAIL]
A rope is wormed, parcelled or served to preserve it from wet or chafe.
=Worming= is done to fill up the space between the strands of the rope
with spunyarn or small rope, to render the surface smooth and round for
parcelling and serving.
=Parcelling= a rope is laying round it with the lay of the rope strips
of clad canvas, tarred, from 2 to 3 inches wide according to the size
of the rope, before serving it, the upper turn of the parcelling
overlapping the upper edge of the turn below it.
[Illustration: WORMING PARCELLING SERVING]
=Serving= is covering the rope with coils of spunyarn or other small
stuff laid on quite close. The spunyarn is put, or, hove on by a
serving mallet which has a score in the underpart according to the size
of the rope. Service is always laid on against the lay of the rope. The
sailor’s adage says:
Worm and parcel with the lay.
And serve the rope the other way.
The end of the yarn is first secured by placing it under the first two
or three coils. The serving mallet after being placed against the rope
has two or three turns passed round its body and another turn or two on
the handle. This enables the coils to be pulled taut as the mallet is
worked round the rope by its handle. An extra man is needed for passing
the ball of serving stuff. When the required length of service is put
on, the end is put under the last two turns, hauled taut and cut off.
=To make a cringle= unlay a single strand from the rope the size the
cringle is required to be. Whip both ends, reeve the strand through
the left-hand eyelet-hole in the sail, keeping one end nearly a third
longer than the other, keeping the roping of the sail toward you. If
a thimble is to be put in the cringle, lay up the two parts of the
strand together, counting three lays. Commence with the short end of
the strands toward you, through the right-hand eyelet-hole, taking
it through the cringle and it will be in right position to lay up in
the vacant space left in the cringle. When done the one end will hand
down inside the right-hand eyelet-hole and the other end outside the
left-hand one. The ends are then hitched by being rove through their
respective eyelet-holes and passed over the leech rope and under their
own part, one hitch being towards you and the other from you. Then
take the ends down under one strand on the right and two on the left of
the cringle nearest to it. Tuck the ends under the first two strands
nearest the hitch leaving them well in place. The cringle is then
fidded out and the thimble is put in on the forward of the sail. The
ends of the strands are then tucked back left-handed, under one strand,
again under two right-handed as in the first place. Heave them taut in
place at each tuck, whip the ends with two of their own yarns and cut
off. If a large cringle is needed count an extra number of lays, 5, 7,
9, etc., always an odd number.
[Illustration: A CRINGLE]
To finish a cringle off on a crown commence as already told. After
laying up the strand together instead of forming a hitch with each end,
the ends are rove through their respective eyelet-holes and tucked back
under two strands of the cringle and again laid up as far as the crown
forming a four-stranded cringle. It is finished off by tucking the ends
under two strands and crossing them under the crown of the cringle and
cut off close.
[Illustration: CRINGLE ON A CROWN]
WIRE ROPE SPLICING
In splicing wire rope great care must be taken to prevent kinks getting
into the rope or strands. Once a kink is made no amount of strain can
take it out, and the rope is unsafe to work. If possible a turntable
should be employed (an old cart wheel mounted on a spindle makes an
excellent one)--the rope will then lead off perfectly straight without
kinks.
With steel wire rope, always before working it put a stop on at the
place to which you intend to unlay, and put a good whipping of twine at
the end of each strand. In splicing wire all tucks are made against the
lay of the rope.
In making an eye splice the rope is handled better if hung up in a
convenient position, so that when standing up the eye will be at about
the level of the chest of the person working.
A long, tapering steel marlinespike is required and after placing it
under a strand do not withdraw it until the tuck is made and all the
slack of the strand drawn through.
To make a neat splice do not haul the part of the rope that has not
been unlaid too close to the neck of the splice, and in tucking the
strands never take a short nip, but take long lays.
In unlaying for a long splice always unlay two strands simultaneously
to keep the rope in its original lay. For a fair-sized rope unlay about
9 feet of each end.
Proceed as in rope splicing and after the three pairs of strands are in
their places, single them and continue to unlay and lay in until the
six meeting places of the strands are equidistant.
To finish off the ends properly can only be learned by observation and
actual practice. By using two marlinespikes the hempen heart is removed
and the ends of the wire strands forced into the place it occupied,
making a very neat job when finished.
Wire splices should be parcelled with oily canvas and served.
=Short Splice.=--The same procedure is gone through as for splicing
hemp rope, only care must be taken to place a good whipping on where
the ends marry, and that each strand prior to unlaying is whipped.
The number of tucks taken should never be less than three whole and
one-half and one-third, so as to taper the splice off. The number of
tucks to be taken off varies according to the work required of the rope
or strop, but as a rule the more the better.
In tucking wire strands the strand should be entered in front of the
marlinespike, which should not be withdrawn until this has been done,
care being taken not to kink the strand.
=Eye Splice.=--Make the crown of the eye, take half the girth of the
thimble and rope to be used and put a good stout whipping on to the
wire, break the wire into shape of the thimble and heave both parts
of the wire together by means of the rigging screws supplied for this
purpose. Put a good seizing of spun yarn around both sides of the wire
and thimble at the ends of the latter. Then remove the rigging screws
and unlay the end of the wire as far as the whipping, open each strand
and remove the hemp heart by cutting it off. Then put a whipping on the
ends of the six strands, commence the splice by tucking the right-hand
strand first, then the others in succession, each strand under one.
The left-hand strand being the last is tucked under two. This ensures
that each strand takes a fair strain. Care should be taken to keep the
strands straight. When all have been tucked once, beat well down with
an iron hammer and put on a good seizing of spun yarn. Then tuck each
strand a second time. Wire 2½ inches and over should be tucked three
times full and tapered to a third.
=Steel Wire Hawsers.=--The splices of the wire are made against the
lay of the rope tucked three times with the full size of the strand and
a fourth time with the strand reduced one-half; to make a more suitable
taper, each tuck is drawn tightly in the direction of the lay of the
rope. The center core of the rope is removed on opening out the strands
for splicing, and the cores of the strands removed after the first tuck
has been made. The first tuck is taken at one and a half times the
girth of the thimble plus the circumference of the rope. The splice
is then parcelled and served, the thimble tightly seized in with flat
seizing crossed.
=Splicing Wire Rope into an Endless Band.=--This can be done either by
the long or short splice, but the former is recommended, as the short
splice, though equally strong, leaves a thick place in the rope. In the
long splice, if properly made, no such inequality exists; indeed the
spliced part should be difficult to locate.
To make a long splice a rope say 3½-inch circumference should have
a splice not less than 60 feet to be safe, and smaller sizes in
proportion down to 1½-inch circumference, for which size 25 feet will
do. Take the 3½-inch rope as an example.
Measure 30 feet off each end of the rope and put a sound marline
serving at those points. Then cut off the end servings and tie the
strands together in twos and interlock, as shown in the diagram.
[Illustration: SPLICING INTO AN ENDLESS BAND]
Lashings should only be cut off when parts are quite close together,
otherwise rope has a tendency to open out further back and thus throw
the length wrong. Then open strands out singly and snip off short six
of the ends, three on either side, alternately. That is to say, leave
a long end in each case opposite one of the snipped ends. Take each
of the short ends in turn and carefully unlay them, at the same time
laying in its place the corresponding long end.
This should be done with all the strands, and reckoning from the center
on each side, the first one should be taken away 25 feet, the second 15
feet, and the third 5 feet. This will divide the splice up equally as
shown in the lower diagram.
Then commence at the first strand at either end. First put the
marlinespike through the center of the rope where the ends cross, cut
and remove the hemp heart for about a foot. Then by the aid of the two
spikes force the strand into place of heart just removed and follow up
to the end of the strand, pulling out the heart a few inches at a time.
Repeat with all twelve ends, taking care that no empty space is left in
the center of the rope by cutting of the hemp core further away than
the strand end will reach. It is a good plan to marl or wrap each end
with parcelling before it is put into the center of the rope, as this
tends to give parts of the splice a good grip of one another. To finish
off and remove inequalities, lay the splice on deck and hammer with a
heavy wooden mallet.
[Illustration: A PAUNCH MAT]
MATTING
=A Paunch Mat= is used as a protection from chafe on shipboard.
Stretch a piece of rope according to the size of the mat required in a
horizontal position and fasten each end. Across this hanging by their
middles, foxes are placed. Foxes are two or more rope yarns twisted
together by hand and each rubbed down with tarred canvas or a handful
of rope yarn. Beginning with the fox nearest the left hand twist a
turn in the two parts and give one part to the man opposite. The next
fox has a turn twisted in its two parts and one part is given to the
opposite man. The other part is twisted round the first which is given
to the partner and then again round its own part with the other foxes
until the required breadth is reached. Then as no more foxes are added
and the outside on the right is brought over from time to time, a
selvage is formed as on the left side. There is a little difficulty in
starting but afterwards all will go along very easily. Each fox from
the right passes over the next one to it on the left and is pushed
back. The one that has been passed over being taken up first over the
next and pushed back as before. Each twist should be pressed tight
as it is made. When the mat is deep enough a selvage is made by
straining another piece of cord along the bottom securing both ends. As
each fox comes down it is half hitched to this and the next fox is laid
at the back of it and so on alternately.
[Illustration: SWORD MATTING WARP AND LOOM]
=Sword Matting= is used for boats, gripes, etc. Two iron bars are slung
in a horizontal position at the required distance apart for warping
the mat off. Hitch one end of the warp which is of spunyarn to the bar
at the end of which it is intended to finish the mat. The other end is
then rove through the first hole in the loom over and under the other
bar back through the first slit, over and under the other bar and so on
until as many parts as are required for the breadth needed have been
laid out. The last end is rove through a slit and secured to the bar at
the end the mat is to be finished. When this is done lift the loom up,
middle the fittings and lay it between the upper and lower parts. Then
lower the loom and the parts that were lowest will rise in the slits
and become the uppermost and thus put a cross in the warp.
[Illustration: SWORD MATTING]
A piece of wood made in the shape of a knife, called a sword, is then
inserted between the alternate parts of the warp and the crossing
is driven close to the head against the bar over which the warp for
weaving the mat is passed. Then turn of filling is passed to secure the
crossing, reeving the ends through contraryways. Haul it taut, take out
the sword, lift up the loom and continue to pass the filling. Half knot
it with two turns. To finish off splice the mat. The loom is usually
made of a piece of copper sheet with alternate holes and slits in it.
[Illustration: SPLICING A SWORD MAT]
=To Splice a Sword Mat= unlay 6 or 7 inches of the mat, open the ends
out, marry them together laying one up and one down flat along the mat.
Withdraw the nettles on one side of one mat and point the nettles of
the other mat through the holes they will come out of. All ends will
then disappear from that side and there will be four rows of ends on
the other. Turn the mats over, pick out the proper nettles of the side
which have been married together, withdraw the ends belonging to one
mat and introduce the corresponding ends of the other mat through the
holes. Perform this operation on each mat and on each side there will
be two rows of ends. Marry these ends together on each side laying one
up and one down and go on splicing by withdrawing and reeving for two
or three rows more in each mat. Leave off with the ends all out on the
same side and finish off as with selvaging.
A cobbler’s stitch is used for joining the sides of sword mats
together. Take a filling of roping twine, middle it and reeve each end
through two bights in each mat (if a heavy mat through three bights at
each side). Then reeve the lowermost end back through the same bights
as the upper end which will bring the ends out at opposite sides. Draw
the mats together and reeve both ends through two turns in each mat
again, passing each other through the same hole opposite ways. Keep
on doing this like stitching the sole of a shoe, hence the reason for
calling it a cobbler’s stitch. Finish off each end by taking a hitch
through a bight in the mat of the next lay above and cut off the ends.
[Illustration: A THRUM MAT]
=A Thrum Mat= is made of canvas and short yarns of equal length. These
yarns are rove through holes stabbed in the canvas, both ends of the
yarns being on the same side.
=A Common Sennit= is made by taking three or four nettles according to
the need required. Middle them over a belaying pin and plait three or
four together the length it is intended to make the eye. Then work both
parts together to form an eye and plait them by bringing the outside
nettles on each side alternately over to the middle. The outside one is
laid with the right hand and the remainder held firmly with the left
hand. Work the whole together adding a nettle when necessary. After
the eye is properly formed drop a yarn and continue to the end with an
odd number. When it is of sufficient length lessen it by dropping a
nettle at regular intervals. To finish it lay one end up, leaving its
bight down and plait the other ends through this bight until they are
all worked through it. Then haul on the end till the bight is taut. To
secure all parts cut off the ends and whip it.
[Illustration: SQUARE SENNIT ROUND FENDER]
=A Square Sennit= is made somewhat in the same manner as the round
sennit but without a heart. Nettles are used in the same ratio
increasing by fours. Having put a whipping round the (eight) ends
divide the nettles, and lay half on each side. Bring the uppermost
left-handed nettle round underneath all and up inside two and over
two of the right-handed ones. Cross over the latter ones to the left
and make four on each side again. Then take the uppermost to the
right-handed nettles, pass it underneath and under two and over two of
the left-handed ones, still keeping four on a side, because the nettle
taken up always comes round to its own side again. To proceed take
the upper nettle on each side alternately and finish off as the round
sennit is finished.
[Illustration: A FENDER]
=A Fender= is used to protect the sides of a boat. Sometimes it is
made of wood but more often is of canvas stuffed with oakum and painted.
To make a soft fender take a piece of Manilla rope double the length
of the fender. Unlay it, open the strands and comb them until all the
yarns lie straight. Double it and clap an eye-seizing on it, marling
it down as shown in the diagram. A lanyard of small cords, such as
log-line, is then spliced into the eye.
=A Round or Pudding Fender= is made of a center or heart of rope yarn
worked over a grafted with short pieces of rope yarn nettles. The
nettles are first cut to the proper length and the middle part slightly
twisted. They are then brought snugly round a thimble and a seizing put
on. The heart or pudding may be of any old stuff such as old strands,
spunyarn, etc. This is put into its place and the nettles laid evenly
over it. Half the nettles taken alternately are turned back over the
eye and the other left lying down the heart. Pass a turn or two of
twine or marline called the warp or filling round the fender where the
nettles separate and hitch it. The nettles turned back must now be
brought down and those that are down turned over the eye. The warp is
now passed again and hitched as before. This must be repeated until
the whole of the fender is covered with a woven coat as shown in the
diagram. The ends of the nettles are brought round last turn of the
warp and interlaced in the grafting.
[Illustration: SIMPLE WEAVING]
A simple weaving apparatus is shown in the diagram by which mats may
easily be made. Take two pegs about 15 to 18 inches long, and drive
them into the ground or attach them to a board so as to be firm.
These should stand about a foot out of the ground. Then take a stick or
a piece of wood and lash it across the upright stakes. Next drive a row
of pegs into the ground. These pegs should be at equal distances apart,
not to exceed 6 inches, and parallel with the lashed stick. Two sets
of strings are then tied to the cross stick. The ends of one set are
fastened to the sticks and the ends of the other set to a staff held in
the hands, as shown in the diagram. If there are a dozen strings, then
the odd numbered should be fastened to the sticks and the even numbered
to the staff. By alternately raising and depressing the staff, placing
a handful of straw or rushes between the strings at each movement and
making them lie close, a good mat is made. These mats may be joined
together with the cobbler’s stitch or by tying the string ends together.
[Illustration: MALAY HITCH]
The =Malay Hitch= is a name given by Captain Galton, a noted traveler,
to a method for fastening boards or planks together to make a shelter.
The cord is twisted once and then as each board is inserted this twist
holds them sufficiently tight for temporary purposes.
HAMMOCK MAKING