Leaves New Bedford. Touch at the Azores. Description of them.
Encounter a heavy squall. The author is struck by lightning. Goes on
shore at Fernando Po for water. Trade with the natives. Treatment
offered a thief. See a native suffering with the Chiger. Deceive a
British Man-of-War. Have poor success and sail for the Brazil Banks.
Providential escape at Barbadoes. Land at St. Vincent. Great frolic
with the natives. Thrown in prison. Sail for N. Bedford. Storm in the
Gulf Stream. Arrive at New Bedford.
On the 17th of July, 1830, the brig Partheon, Capt. Maxfield, weighed
anchor, spread her sails to the breeze, and fast the land receded from
view. I sat on deck and watched the last hill sink away in the dim
distance, and the breach forever increasing between me and my native
land. Then the joys of home, a mother's kind care, and a sister's
fond love rushed upon my mind and I half regretted the step I had
taken. For their sakes I did regret, but when the remembrance of that
ill-fated morning came to my mind, I sprang to my feet determined to
share my joys and sorrows with none known to me by kindred or other
ties. Striving to forget the past, I went to my duty. We stood for the
Azores, where we took in water and provision. Those Islands lie between
Europe and America, between 36° and 39° N. Lat. and contain about 1200
square miles, and belong to the Portuguese; have a clear sky and a
salubrious air, and are extremely fertile, producing wine and various
fruits in great abundance; are nearly free from venomous reptiles;
are supposed to contain about 250,000 inhabitants. Our stay was short;
stood for the Cape Verde Islands, about 15° N. Lat., off the African
Coast 300 miles; are about twenty in number, though many of them are
of small note, being only barren rocks uninhabitable; one of them is a
mere volcano, called Fogo.
St. Jago is 150 miles in circumference, and the most fruitful,
producing Indian Corn, Sugar, Cotton, Oranges, Limes, &c. A great trade
is carried on in the article of Madder, which grows in great abundance
among the rocks.
Praya, situated on the easterly side of the group, has a beautiful
harbor, and is much visited by vessels for refreshments.
An immense business is done at the Island of Mayo, another of the same
group, in making salt from the salt water, by the heat of the sun. At
Spring tides it is received into a basin, or pan, formed by a sand
bank, which runs for several miles along the coast.
The salt costs nothing, except the raking of it together, and taking it
to the boats, which is on asses, and at a very cheap rate.
While off the Isle of St. Jago we encountered a tremendous squall,
which came near throwing us upon the rocks, and would, had not we had a
most skillful commander. After the wind abated we repaired the slight
damage we received; cruised for whales, but with the poorest success;
stood for the Brazil Banks, hoping to be more fortunate; touched at
the Island of St. Thomas, which with Princes Island and Fernando Po,
constitute what are termed the Guinea Group. The two first, St. Thomas
and Princes Island, belong to the Portuguese; Fernando Po is occupied
by the British. At Princes Island we were allowed liberty on shore;
that is a privilege of one day on shore granted to one half of the crew
at a time, while the remaining ones attend to the ship's duties.
We remained about these islands a few days, taking three whales only.
This was about the season of the year for violent tornadoes, which
greatly impeded our operations, being constantly obliged to be on
lookout, and in readiness for their approach. On whale ships sail
is usually shortened at sundown and the vessel hove to under stern
sails. One night while we were laying to, a violent squall suddenly
arose, giving us hardly a moment's warning. The rain fell in torrents,
the lightning played most vividly, which rendered the darkness
still deeper. In executing the order, "haul down the fore-top-mast
stay-sail," the halyards became entangled. I sprang upon the windlass
to extricate them; at that moment the lightning struck, shivering the
fore-top-gallant-mast and fore-top-mast into a thousand atoms. The
shock was sensibly felt throughout the ship, and most severely so by
myself, leaving me senseless for a number of hours.
Shaped our course for St. Thomas island, where we replaced our spars
with such as the country afforded, being quite an inferior article,
heavy and very brittle. Our vessel being repaired, we stood for the
same ground again, where we cruised two months, entirely disheartened,
by our bad luck, only taking two whales.
Our water getting quite low we stood for the British Settlement on
Fernando Po. We deemed it unwise to go on shore there on account of
the dreadful sickness then prevailing among the inhabitants. We sailed
around the island till we came to a little harbor, lowered sail, and
searched for water. The boat was manned by five oars-men with the
captain. As we came around a point of land, we came suddenly upon
several negro families loitering upon the beach entirely naked. They
did not perceive us until we were close in upon them, when they gave a
loud whoop or yell which almost deafened us, and took to their heels.
We ransacked their huts, found they possessed, and perhaps needed, but
little, living by fishing principally.
We searched in vain for water, took to our boats again and pulled
along till we came to a little bay known as North West Bay, where we
saw a number of natives fishing. We kept close in shore for fear of
frightening them. Before we could cut off their retreat, they saw
us, gave one yell and most assiduously did they pull for the shore.
We overtook one canoe; they seemed very much frightened, and made
attempts to jump overboard, when we held up bits of iron and other
things as presents. They suffered us to come near them; finding us
friends instead of enemies, they offered us water and wine made from
the Palm Tree, which possesses most an excellent flavor. Those who had
considered themselves very fortunate in escaping, came back bringing
fowls and palm wine which they readily exchanged for our bits of old
iron. Those trifles were considered by them as possessing great value.
They would hang them about their persons and dance and jump about with
greatest delight. Soon as they could be made to understand the nature
of our visit, they sent a man with us, who took us a little way around
to a most beautiful stream of pure cold water. Dismissing our pilot
we stood for our vessel which was not then visible, thinking to get
the water the next morning. We pulled out of the harbor and saw our
vessel hull down as it is termed, that is, nothing to be seen but the
topmasts. Scarce a ripple was to be felt upon the water, so perfectly
glass-like did it appear. The sun was just setting in all its splendor,
casting its long beautiful rays upon the still waters, rendering
our situation certainly a most enviable one. Soon as the sun's last
flickering ray died upon the water, the moon pale and beautiful
gladdened our hearts with her gentle rays. Caring but little to leave
this fascinating spot, we pulled leisurely for the ship, reaching her
at half-past ten.
The next morning we stood into the harbor and came to anchor. The
natives in great numbers came on board, wishing to exchange more of
their fowls and wine for the poor, worthless bits of iron and other
things, which we possessed. We noticed one with both hands cut off at
his wrists; and were informed, if we rightly interpreted their signs,
that he was a thief, and that was one of their modes of punishment. In
wishing to come on board, he threw his arms around the hauling part of
the fore sheet, (a rope hanging at the ship's side) which not being
fast in-board gave way with his weight, and he fell into the sea.
Not one of his fellows tendered him the helping hand. Some looked on
without betraying the least emotion, while others with ribaldry and
mirth saw the water close over him forever. He seemed to be an object
of universal contempt. Whether his thieving propensities were coupled
with other misdeeds I know not.
Having obtained our supply of water and a goodly supply of provision
and wine from the natives, we were allowed liberty on shore. Taking
our guns with us we shot many birds. Soon as they fell the females
would spring for them and pull out the largest feathers, with which to
decorate their heads. In one excursion we found an old man lying on
the sand suffering most intensely under the malady common to that and
other African islands, also known in Brazil and other parts of South
America, called the Chiger. It is supposed to be caused by an insect
which deposits its eggs under the toes of the bare feet of the natives
while walking in the sand, causing an inflammation, which if treated
unskillfully produces an incurable sore. I have seen those with their
legs swollen nearly as large as the body. The situation of the old man
referred to was frightful beyond conception; his lips and cheeks were
most entirely gone, leaving his jaw bone and teeth bare; his tongue and
pallet, together with the roof of his mouth were also nearly consumed,
rendering him speechless. With the greatest difficulty he could drag
himself along; the most disagreeable odor filled the atmosphere around;
no hand of sympathy was extended to him; alone and friendless he was
left to die.
On our return we passed that way, and found his sorrows had an end.
By the blood on the ground and marks of violence on the body, we were
satisfied his miseries were brought to an end by human hands.
Went on board and stood for Princes Island, which lies about 150 miles
to the southward. Saw a large sail to the windward; at once supposed
her to be a British man-of-war, whose duty it is to guard against
any depredations being committed by slavers or others on any foreign
coast. Our captain knowing his vessel presented rather a suspicious
appearance, being rigged and painted in a rakish manner, and wishing
to have a little sport, made sail, as if fearing such company. This
had the desired effect. They immediately set her studding sails and
gave chase. The captain, to continue the joke, crowded all sail, which
came near proving a joke of a serious nature to him, for the Englishman
perceiving this, bellowed out in tones there was no mistaking, as a
signal for us to heave to. This being unheeded, was quickly succeeded
by one that told us full well of the fatal consequences of longer
sporting with them. We hove to and suffered her to come up with us,
and when within hail, she asked the usual questions, Who are you?
Where bound? &c., &c., lowered her boat, came on board, demanded the
ship's papers, also the reason why we did not heave to at the first
gun; was told that at that moment a spout was seen from aloft, and it
was determined to find out what kind of whale it was, found it to be
a hump-back, and there she blows _again_. Fortunately for him a whale
of that kind happened to come in sight and aided much in carrying
out the joke. Finding our situation different from what he feared,
he made himself very agreeable, and spent some time with us; after
exchanging Oil for Rum we soon parted. In a few days squared away for
Princes Island, whither we were bound; entering the harbor, found
the Man-of-war lying there; had liberty on shore; spent a few days
very pleasantly indeed. Got under weigh again, bound for the West
Indies, with the heaviest press of sail we were able to carry. It was
our intention to sight Barbadoes and run down to St. Vincent for our
ship's supplies. The wind being very fair we overrun our reckoning.
The night also setting very dark and foggy, we were not aware of our
proximity to Barbadoes until we found our vessel going at the rate of
ten knots in the midst of shipping. With greatest despatch the helm was
put "hard-a-port," the studding-sail tacks and braces let go, and the
vessel brought to the wind without the least harm, though great was the
danger. Stood out of the harbor and made St. Vincent. After a voyage of
forty days came to anchor at a small harbor commonly called the Bottle
and Glass, so called from a large round rock at its mouth, which in the
sun's reflection very much resembles in its general appearance a huge
blue glass bottle.
It was exceedingly pleasant after a long voyage to again get liberty on
shore. The captain advanced us money which we spent among the natives,
giving but little restraint to our passions. We were left on shore one
night for some reason with no means of getting on board, also without
money and without shelter, for soon as our money was gone, it was no
object for the people to shelter us. Some of the company proposed
swimming, and suiting the action to the words, stripped their clothes,
lashed them to their backs and started, but soon returned, sick of the
undertaking. There being a house (if the huts of the natives can be
called houses) near where we had spent some of our money, we concluded
to try their generosity. We knocked, but received no answer. It was
then proposed to wait upon ourselves in. I was chosen leader; laid
hold of the boards on the side of the house, sung a song, and with the
chorus giving a "long pull, a strong pull and a pull altogether," away
she came, and we walked in. (It will be borne in mind the houses are
built slightly indeed, consequently our task was not very heavy.) On
our entrance, the old lady yelled out "My God, ye Buckra (white) man no
stop come in do (door) pull'e side house down."
As I had been chosen leader, or captain, I found the liquor, which was
in a huge jug, and took possession of that, set myself on the floor by
the jug and dealt out as their several cases demanded. There we spent
the night, singing, dancing, and as a common accompaniment, drinking.
With the morning came the constable, who took us off to jail with as
little ceremony as we walked into the hut. The captain hearing of our
confinement came and paid five dollars each, as a fine, and took us
back, we thinking that we had one of the finest times imaginable.
Got ready for sea the next day, called all hands, found one man
missing. What became of him we never knew. We cruised about the
islands two or three weeks for whales; the same poor success which
we experienced on other grounds attended us here, and sick at heart
we turned our course towards New Bedford, with only 250 barrels Oil,
when we should have had full ship. Our ship was capable of holding 750
barrels.
In the gulf stream we encountered a tremendous gale from the north
east, which contending with the strong current which ran in a contrary
direction, (from the south west,) caused a very high and irregular sea.
We shortened sail and ran the vessel as long as possible. The night
set in so extremely dark that we were unable to distinguish one object
from another, only by the lightning's flash. I remained at the wheel
from eight to twelve, P. M. At one time a heavy sea suddenly struck us
upon our quarter, breaking the davits, (by which the boats are hoisted)
sweeping the boat across the deck, bursting the bulwarks off and buried
me up to the middle in water. I felt as if I was alone upon deck, for
surely no one could possibly be there who was not previously lashed.
The wretchedness of the situation the pen cannot picture. At length I
felt a hand laid heavily upon me, at the same time the well known voice
of the captain cries, "who has the helm?" "Bill, sir," says I. An extra
man was offered me at the helm if I wished. This I declined, feeling
desirous of preserving the strength of the crew, if possible, for
greater emergencies. I left the helm at twelve o'clock and went below.
At four all hands were called to make sail, the wind having abated,
though the sea rolled so very heavily, that the vessel was in great
danger of being dismasted. At noon all possible sail was made. During
the night we saw Cape Hatteras light, found ourselves rather nearer
than prudence would permit, as it is one of the most dangerous places
in the known world, hauled our wind and stood off from the shore. We
crowded all sail possible, and reached New Bedford about the first of
April, having been absent nine months.
No sooner had I stepped on my own native soil, than home with all its
allurements presented itself to my mind. I well knew the joy my return
would bring to those patents from whose roof I had thus long absented
myself, and I was almost persuaded to forsake the sailor's hard and
bitter lot and turn again to the home of my youth, and wander no more.
But then my mind would revert to the reception I met with on my last
return, and I resolved to redeem the pledge made when I last left home.
Not having cleared my expenses I was left with no alternative save
going to sea again, and I engaged to go on board the same vessel again,
under the command of Charles Hammen who was mate of her the previous
voyage. While the ship was fitting for the voyage I run one trip to
Baltimore, on board the brig Henry, Captain Taber, mate, Coleman, with
oil. Returned laden with flour. This incident in itself considered is
of little note; but the circumstance of my becoming acquainted with
those men, particularly the mate, afterwards, as will be seen, proved
of the greatest importance to me.
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