ROUTE.
BIRMINGHAM TO WOLVERHAMPTON,
Fourteen Miles.
BIRMINGHAM AND VAUXHALL STATION.
Distance to Liverpool and Manchester, 97.25 miles.
DISTANCES BY ROADS FROM THIS STATION TO THE FOLLOWING PLACES:--
*** Those printed in small capitals are market towns.
_Places W. of Station_. _Places E. of Station_.
Edgbaston 2.5 miles. Erdington 3 miles.
Harborne 4 -- Castle Bromwich 4.5 --
HALESOWEN 8.5 -- SUTTON COLDFIELD 6.5 --
STOURBRIDGE 12.5 -- Water Orton 6.5 --
Curdworth 7.5 --
COLESHILL 8.5 --
Wishaw 9 --
Middleton 9.5 --
Drayton Bassett 11.5 --
TAMWORTH 13 --
THE Birmingham Station of the Grand Junction railway, closely adjoins
that of the London and Birmingham, which greatly facilitates the
arrangements of travellers proceeding along the entire line. Until the
completion of the permanent buildings, those at Vauxhall have been
temporarily used. To a stranger coming into the station-yard for the
first time, the whole scene is one of great novelty: the long train of
treble-bodied coaches, waiting under a broad covered way for passengers
and baggage; the bustle and animation of the host of porters, guards,
conductors, &c.; the amazement depicted on some of the faces of the
lookers-on; the state of "intellectual complication" evinced by others,
especially those who, having various items of property to convey with
them, are tremblingly solicitous for the welfare of sundry "red-striped
carpet bags, trunks with wrappering over," bandboxes which will be ruined
by a drop of rain, and fish-baskets which have a mortal antipathy to be
squeezed. Other important-looking passengers make up their minds to take
things as a matter of course, and not betray any vulgar surprise; and
from their extremely over-done _nonchalance_, would fain persuade you
they had made a journey round the globe in a first-rate train, and
reached the antipodes by a tunnel. These valiant and adventurous
individuals are by far the severest sufferers by the anti-cigar-act,
passed by the Company, for which the unsmoking part of the community,
especially the fair sex, are greatly indebted. The traveller may refer
to the company's regulations at full, in the appendix at the end of this
volume. Supposing all preliminaries adjusted, we commence our journey.
* * * * *
Passing the station at Vauxhall, (closely adjoining to which are Vauxhall
Gardens,) the railroad proceeds by Duddeston, and passes over the
Coleshill road near Saltley Chapel, a small pigeon-house like edifice to
the E. of the line. Aston Church soon appears on the W., above the rich
woods surrounding it; and the high chimney of the Birmingham Water Works
(lately established to supply the town) is passed on the E. The steam
engines, Hercules and Atlas, erected here for pumping the water from the
reservoir, into the pipes for conveyance to Birmingham, are perhaps the
grandest and most perfect of their kind ever fabricated. Yardley Village
and Perry Barr form the distant view. The railroad now passes over the
Aston embankment, and a viaduct of ten arches, beneath which runs the
high road to Sutton, and the Fazeley Canal. From this point the last
view is gained of the town of Birmingham, on the W.; and on the E. a
prospect of Gravelly Hill, now nearly levelled, and the village of
Erdington. A short distance onwards the line passes the front of Aston
Hall, a fine old baronial residence in the Elizabethan style of
architecture, erected by Sir Thomas Holt in 1620, and in which he
entertained Charles I. previously to the battle of Edge Hill. It is
situated in a fine park, richly ornamented with stately timber of ancient
growth, and thriving modern plantations. All the views of this fine old
mansion are strikingly beautiful; but the one commanded from the railroad
line, looking up the avenue of lofty elms, (which the line crosses,) is
the most imposing.
James Watt, Esq., the present proprietor, has, it is said, expended
10,000 in preventing the line of railroad from passing through his
park, which the Company intended it to do; and in consequence of this
opposition a great curve appears in the course of the line at this
part. Iron works in the neighbourhood have been in operation from
remote antiquity. {14}
[Picture: Aston Hall]
The Church, which re-appears at several points of the line, is a
beautiful and venerable structure, with a fine tapering spire, and
remarkably musical bells, the sweet tones of which will scarcely reach
the ears of railroad travellers. Part of the village of Aston is
observable from the railroad, and also the grounds and fish-pans of its
"Tavern," a spot much frequented by tea (and ale) drinking parties from
Birmingham.
* * * * *
One very agreeable feature of the scenery on the line, is the unspoiled
freshness and verdure of the ground on either side. The idea most
persons entertain respecting such astounding innovations on ancient
usages as steam carriages and railroads is, that they spread desolation
around their path, and that the track of a locomotive engine must
necessarily be as devastating in its effects as that of a lava course.
We candidly confess to something akin to this suspicion ourselves. But
all "Grand Junction" patrons must be gratified to find such expectations
disappointed so pleasingly in the cheerful aspect of the fields, groves,
and "little running brooks," closely bordering the excavations or
embankments. Cattle are quietly feeding just on the other side the
fence, and gay wildflowers already enamel the newly-made banks.
Sometimes, certainly, a horse or cow may be abruptly interrupted in a
quiet meditation by the rapid rushing by of a "Centaur" or "Alecto," with
its lengthened _tail_ of many ponderous joints; and one accident, very
singular, if true, occurred lately. A certain luckless individual of the
pig family, having too far indulged an imprudent spirit of investigation
on the Bilston portion of the line, had his curly conclusion very
summarily amputated by a passing train:--he turned round briskly to
ascertain the extent of his calamity, when another train, whirling along
in an opposite direction, coming in contact with his head, put a period
to the enterprising animal's existence by an instant decapitation. We
might draw a wise and serious moral from this "cutting" event, but the
fact presents a sufficient warning to all persons inclined to incur the
penalty of two pounds in sterling coin, and limbs _ad libitum_, for the
sake of a promenade on the forbidden ground. "Digression is a sin,"--on
the defunct pig's head be ours! But for his tragic history, we should,
ere this, have introduced the hill of these parts, Barr Beacon, to our
readers; it appears to the N.E., crowned with a dense grove of trees.
The intervening scenery is cheerful and cultivated, but not picturesque.
The village of Witton shortly appears to the E., with Barr lying on the
N.E. The bridge here passed is on the boundary of Warwickshire and
Staffordshire, which latter county the line now enters. Aston Hall and
Church again come in sight beyond Witton, and form a beautiful rear view,
which is soon shut out by the banks of the excavation, precluding all
prospect save of their own sloping sides, the pebbles and markings in
which are made, by the rapidity of passing, to appear like flying lines.
Perry Barr Station.
Distance to Birmingham, 3.5--Liverpool and Manchester, 94 miles.
DISTANCES BY ROADS FROM THIS STATION TO THE FOLLOWING PLACES:--
_Places W. of Station_. _Places E. of Station_.
Handsworth 1 mile Perry .75 mile
Aston 1 -- Erdington 2.75 miles
Smethwick 4.25 miles SUTTON COLDFIELD 5 --
Little Aston 6 --
Shenstone 8.5 --
[Picture: Aston Church and Viaduct]
At this station, the line makes a considerable curve in an opposite
direction to that hitherto followed, and passes Handsworth, (the church
appearing among wood on the W.,) also Lea Hall, on the W., and over two
bridges, named from J. Gough, Esq., through whose estate the line runs
for two miles. Pleasant, quiet-looking scenery skirts the road for some
distance, and about a mile from the last bridge, a view is gained of
Perry Hall, seat of J. Gough, Esq., nearly encompassed by a grove of oak
trees. At Hampstead Bridge, the old Walsall road crosses the line; and
on either side the prospect is pleasantly varied by wood and water.
Hampstead Hall, which lies near, is nearly concealed by its rich woods
from the passers on the railroad. The line shortly enters a cutting, of
from sixty to seventy feet deep; emerging from which into the open
country, West Bromwich, and Sandwell Park, the seat of Earl Dartmouth,
appear on the W., and Barr on the E. We now pass
Newton Road Station.
Distance to Birmingham, 6.75--Liverpool and Manchester, 90.75 miles.
DISTANCES BY ROADS FROM THIS STATION TO THE FOLLOWING PLACES:--
_Places W. of Station_. _Place E. of Station_.
West Bromwich 2 miles Great Barr 2.5 miles
Oldbury 3.25 --
Rowley Regis 5 --
HALESOWEN 7.25 --
Cradley 7.25 --
The Lye 8.5 --
WEST BROMWICH has rapidly risen to importance from the rich iron and coal
mines which abound in its vicinity. The great Gas Works are situated
here, which supply the chief part of Birmingham, Wednesbury, Dudley,
Bilston, Darlaston, and other places with gas; the main tubes extending
to the aggregate length of 150 miles. There are two handsome churches,
the one ancient, the other modern. Population, 15,330.
* * * * *
The site of the present splendid mansion of Sandwell, was, in the reign
of Henry II., occupied by a priory of Benedictine Monks. Charley Mount,
pleasantly situated on a hill, appears W. of the line, Ray Hall and
Burslem, or Bustleholm Mill, on the E. Before passing Tame Bridge, Barr
Beacon again appears, heading the distant view. Friar Park is on the W.,
with the town and church of Wednesbury (usually pronounced Wedgebury),
towering above the trees. Walsall appears from the same point, lying
N.E. of the line.
* * * * *
DUDLEY, a town in the centre of the mining district, lies 5.5 miles W. of
the line. Population, 23,050. The ancient castle is a ruin of great
beauty and interest, situated on an eminence, and surrounded with fine
wood and beautiful walks. Stupendous cavern-quarries, canals, and
labyrinthine excavations, extend under the Castle Hill. The limestone is
remarkably rich in fossil treasures; trilobites, or, as they are vulgarly
called, "Dudley locusts," have been found here in great variety, but from
the eagerness of collectors, and the inadequate supply of these ancient
creatures yielded by the rocks, they have become scarce and costly,
instead of "not particularly valuable," as stated by a contemporary
before alluded to.
* * * * *
WEDNESBURY is a town of ancient origin, having been fortified against the
Danes by Ethelfleda, daughter of Alfred the Great, in 916. Extensive
collieries enrich the vicinity, and tend greatly to darken the complexion
of both houses and inhabitants; the workers of the black diamond
hereabout being a marvellously murky fraternity. Various manufactures of
iron are here carried on, and the air is generally redolent of the fumes
of coal-smoke in no small degree. The market is on Friday, and fairs May
6, and August 3.
* * * * *
WALSALL boasts an equally ancient history with the former place, and was
fortified by the same princess. It stands conspicuously on the summit
and acclivities of a limestone rock, which is crowned by the church, the
lofty spire of which forms a fine object. Market on Tuesday; fairs
September 24, Whit Monday, and Tuesday before Michaelmas day. Proceeding
onwards we pass under
Bescot Bridge Station.
Distance to Birmingham, 9.5--Liverpool and Manchester, 88 miles.
DISTANCES BY ROADS FROM THIS STATION TO THE FOLLOWING PLACES:--
_Places W. of Station_. _Places E. of Station_.
WEDNESBURY 1 mile WALSALL 1.5 mile
Tipton 4 miles Rushall 2.5 miles
DUDLEY 5.5 -- Over Stonnal 6.5 --
Netherton 6.75 -- Lower Stonnal 7.5 --
Brierley Hill 8.25 -- Shenstone 9 --
King Swinford 8.5 -- LICHFIELD 11 --
Wordesley 9.25 --
The Lye 9.25 --
STOURBRIDGE 9.75 --
Old Swinford 10.5 --
THE main road from Wednesbury to Walsall crosses this bridge; pass Bescot
Hall, (Mr. Marshall's,) on the E., and reach
James's Bridge Station.
Distance to Birmingham, 10.25--Liverpool and Manchester, 87.25 miles.
DISTANCES BY ROADS FROM THIS STATION TO THE FOLLOWING PLACES:--
_Places W. of Station_. _Places E. of Station_.
Darlaston .75 mile Walsall 1.75 mile
Coseley 3 miles
THE high road from Walsall crosses here to DARLASTON, (seen in the
distance on the W.,) another town in the iron and coal district, and,
according to tradition, the seat of Wulphere, king of Mercia, who put his
two sons to death for embracing Christianity. On the hill at Berry Bank,
are the remains of a large castle and entrenchments, and near by, a
Barrow, which it were heresy to doubt were the residence and grave of
this redoubtable personage. The chief manufactures of this, as of the
neighbouring towns, consist of various iron and steel goods. The whole
district is abundantly traversed by canals, tram-roads, &c., for the
convenient conveyance of merchandise, and presents to the passing
traveller less subject for praise in point of beauty, than for admiration
and surprise, at the closely-placed engines, mills, coal-pits,
iron-mines, and factories, which greet him on all sides, with hissing,
curling volumes of white steam, or thick massy clouds of rolling smoke.
Should the traveller journey through this strange neighbourhood by night,
the novel and wild, not to say, grand, effect of the fires, must strike
him forcibly. Huge furnaces glowing on the earth, from a dark wayside
forge; tall chimneys, themselves not seen in the gloom, vomiting forth
flames and fiery-coloured smoke, or a long range of glowing hillocks,
where flickering blazes play from the charcoal burning within: add to
these, the dusky figures of the men and boys employed in the works, and a
stranger will have a scene before him, in which the "fearsome" is oddly
enough blended with the grotesque.
* * * * *
In the distance, S.W. of the line, appear the Rowley Hills, a ridge of
trap or basaltic rock, which, at the time of its elevation, upheaved and
broke through the coal strata. The stone being hard and compact, the
hills are quarried for paving flags, &c.
"The principal mass of these (trap rocks) occurs in the southern part
of the county, overlying the coal-field which surrounds the town of
Dudley. It there constitutes the material of a group of hills,
beginning on the S. of that town, and terminating about half-way
between Halesowen and Oldbury, a little beyond the village of Rowley.
These hills consist of very pure basalt, which in the neighbourhood
of Birmingham is called Rowley rag, because the village of Rowley is
situated on one of these basalt hills; and this hill appears to the
eye to be the highest of the whole range. These hills are all
covered with soil; but quarries have been opened in many of them, and
the basalt of which they are composed is employed for mending the
roads. The streets of Birmingham are likewise paved with it. The
columnar structure, though very frequent, is far from universal in
this trap, which very commonly occurs in large spherical masses,
decomposing on the surface into concentric layers. An amygdaloidal
variety containing calcareous spar and zeolite occurs S. of Dudley.
The highest point of the Rowley Hills is stated by Dr. Thompson to be
900 feet above the Thames at Brentford."--CONYBEARE AND PHILLIPS'S
_Geology of England and Wales_.
Passing through a cutting of considerable depth, we arrive at
Willenhall Station.
Distance to Birmingham, 12--Liverpool and Manchester, 85.5 miles.
DISTANCES BY ROADS FROM THIS STATION TO THE FOLLOWING PLACES:--
_Places W. of Station_. _Places E. of Station_.
Bilston 1.5 mile Bloxwich 3 miles.
Sedgley 4.25 miles Pelsall 4.75 --
Lower Gornal 5.75 --
Himley 7.25 --
THE small town of Willenhall, at the period of the Norman survey, was
called _Winehala_, the Saxon term for victory, probably from the great
battle fought near it in 311. The village began to flourish in the reign
of Elizabeth, when the iron manufacture was first established here: at
present, it is noted for its collieries and flourishing trade in locks,
and other articles of hardware. Population, about 5,900.
[Picture: Wednesfield Tunnel]
Nothing of particular interest occurs on either side of the line, till,
in approaching the long Wednesfield tunnel, the geological traveller will
observe the remarkable section formed by the excavation through the
outcropping beds of coal, which in this part rise at a great angle
towards the surface, and are worked in the neighbourhood by open
cuttings. The complete change which this abrupt ending of the coal-field
causes in the aspect of the country is very singular. On one side all is
black and murky; on the other, green and bright.
* * * * *
The tunnel is 180 yards in length, and the effect of a long train of
carriages passing rapidly under, is novel and grand, nor less so the
appearance of their emerging from the dark archway, to the expectant
spectators at the
WOLVERHAMPTON STATION.
Distance to Birmingham, 14.25--Liverpool and Manchester, 83.25 miles.
DISTANCES BY ROADS FROM THIS STATION TO THE FOLLOWING PLACES:--
_Places W. of Station_. _Places E. of Station_.
WOLVERHAMPTON (Town) 1 mile. Bushbury 1.75 mile.
Tettenhall 2 miles. Wednesfield 1.75 --
Upper Penn 3.5 --
Codsall 4.5 --
Wombourne 5.25 --
Himley 6 --
Trysull 6 --
Pattingham 6.5 --
Albrighton 7 --
Donington 7.5 --
King Swinford 7.5 --
Bonningale 8 --
BRIDGENORTH 14 --
SHIFFNAL 14 --
THE panting and smoking engine, like a huge beast, rushing along with
fiery jaws, and "such a length of tail behind," might, in a dark night,
be easily suspected of being "no canny." Divers kinds of vehicles, from
post-chaises and landaus, to caravans and _omnibii_ (as a refined friend
of ours pluralizes these universal conveyances) are in attendance at this
station, to convey passengers to the town of Wolverhampton, one mile
distant, or to their future destination.
WOLVERHAMPTON is a place of considerable antiquity, and was called
Hanton or Hampton prior to the year 996, when Wulfrana, sister of
King Edgar, and widow of Aldhelm, Duke of Northampton, founded a
college here, endowing it with so many privileges that the town was
called in her honour, _Wulfranis Hampton_, of which its present name
is evidently a corruption. The College continued till the year 1200,
when Petrus Blesensis, who was then dean, after fruitless attempts to
reform the dissolute lives of the brethren, surrendered the
establishment to Hubert, archbishop of Canterbury, and it was
subsequently annexed to the deanery of Windsor. In 1590, the greater
part of the town was destroyed by a fire, which continued burning for
five days. In the parliamentary war, Wolverhampton aided the
royalists, and Prince Rupert fixed his head-quarters here, while the
king was encamped at Bushbury.
The town is situated on an eminence, on the N.W. side of the great
midland coal-district, and the neighbourhood abounds with iron, coal, and
limestone. The manufacture of locks, forms here as in the other towns in
the vicinity, the staple trade, to which may be added, smith's and
carpenter's tools, machinery of all kinds, furnishing ironmongery, &c.
The modern streets are well-built and lighted, and contain many handsome
and substantial houses. A public Subscription Library and News-room,
occupy the lower part of a commodious building, in which, assemblies and
concerts are likewise held. A Literary and Philosophical Society is
established, but not yet supported in a manner at all proportioned to its
merits; a circumstance not reflecting much honour on the professedly
intelligent and "higher" classes of the inhabitants. The Mechanics'
Institution is in a more flourishing condition, for obvious reasons,
being patronized by the more knowledge-loving part of the community. The
Theatre is opened occasionally; it is a small and unpretending structure.
Races are annually held in August, in an extensive area near the town,
and are well attended. In the centre of the market-place stands a
cast-iron column, forty-five feet high, surmounted by a large gas
lantern, which was intended by its sanguine projector to enlighten the
whole town and suburbs, but, alas for the great designs of short-sighted
humanity!--its sphere of usefulness is unfortunately restricted to the
attic and chamber windows of the houses immediately contiguous.
* * * * *
The Collegiate Church is an ancient and exceedingly beautiful cruciform
structure, in the early decorated style of architecture, with a handsome
square embattled tower rising from the centre. It contains a curious and
elaborately-carved stone pulpit, formed of one entire block, an ancient
font, and several interesting monuments. In the church-yard is a column,
twenty feet high, greatly enriched with sculpture of various designs,
supposed to be of either Saxon or Danish origin. There are several other
churches in Wolverhampton, and many religious establishments belonging to
various sects of dissenters; also a Free Grammar School, Blue Coat
Charity, National, Sunday, and other Schools. The population of
Wolverhampton is about 25,000; it has a market on Wednesday, and a fair
on July 10.