The annual export of coffee from La Unión amounts to 150,000

sacks, all of which are carried to Europe (Hamburg, Havre, etc.),

the Kosmos Company taking by far the greater part. Day by day

the Pacific Mail Steamship Company loses ground and popularity

throughout Central American ports owing to its extortionate charges

(where there is no competition), to its indifferent management, and,

above all, by reason of the gross discourtesy with which its clients

are sometimes treated by the uncouth and half-savage officials whom

it employs.

British interests at La Unión, such as they are, are represented

by Mr. John B. Courtade, His Britannic Majesty's Vice-Consul; and

this gentleman also acts as French, Chilian, and Norwegian Consul.

Mr. Courtade, who is a Frenchman by birth, has been a resident of

La Unión for thirty-three years, and he is one of the best-known

and most-respected inhabitants of the place. The "palatial"

offices which enshrine H.B.M.'s Vice-Consulate will be noted with

satisfaction by the patriotic.

Between La Unión and La Libertad is situated the port of Triunfo,

which is 60 miles from the latter, and 156 miles from the former.

Triunfo, however, has a very poor natural entrance, owing to the

heavy surf which is continually breaking on the shore. It is to

this port, nevertheless, that an American syndicate are about to

construct a railway, with the idea of handling the large quantity

of coffee which is grown in the neighbourhood, and consigned to

this port for shipment abroad. So dangerous was Triunfo formerly

considered as a landing-place, that Lloyd's had been advised by

their agents not to issue insurances, but to allow shippers to take

the risk. With the contemplated improvements at the port, however,

in conjunction with the railway, Triunfo will probably be ranked

with La Unión as a safe and convenient port. At present the steamers

of the Salvador Railway Company call there on their way to and from

Corinto to Salina Cruz.

During last year the Government encouraged measures to maintain a

first-class service of loading and unloading cargo at the various

ports, while attending also to the embarking and disembarking of

passengers, recognizing the necessity of putting both these branches

of service upon a more satisfactory footing. Serviceable and

commodious port-boats have been provided for each of the Comandantes

at La Unión, La Libertad, and Triunfo. The latter port is now used,

as mentioned above, for the shipping of coffee almost exclusively;

and it is through El Triunfo that is exported the produce of the

bountiful coffee harvest yielded by the Department of Usulután,

which represents more than a third part of the whole of the

Republic's coffee produce.

Acajutla, the port of Sonsonate, is an open bay about sixty-two

miles to the east of San José; it is sheltered from the south-east

by the Remedios reef, a dangerous and extensive shoal, extending

from a point of the same name. The salt water here is considered

injurious to cables and copper. Ships anchor in 9 to 11 fathoms.

Landing is occasionally difficult, and ought to be effected in

a good boat. Merchant vessels load and discharge their cargoes

by means of bongos, or large craft in the shape of whale-boats.

A substantially-built pier, fitted with cranes, facilitates the

landing, although at times the surf renders it hazardous. By giving

short notice, fresh provisions may be obtained in large quantities

from Sonsonate. The active volcano of Izalco, on a north-east by

north bearing, forms a good leading mark for this part, and Point

Remedios, long, low, and thickly wooded, may easily be recognized.

The sea-bathing at Acajutla contributes to the attraction of the

place. Nowhere upon the coast of these Central American countries

will a smoother or wider sand-beach be found; and at all times of

the year, while at most hours of the day, women and children are

found disporting themselves in the swelling and sometimes boisterous

surf. The comparative freedom from the attacks of sharks and other

predatory fish is also a great benefit, although there are stories

current of men and women having been seized and carried away by

these prowling tigers of the sea. An "old inhabitant" of some

twenty-five years' residence, however, informed me that he had never

known of a case where death had ensued, and, while he himself had

heard of the shark stories referred to, he had no personal knowledge

of their accuracy.

The sanitary conditions of Acajutla are at present poor, and it is

scarcely surprising to hear that cases of fever and other maladies

exist in certain seasons. All this could easily be changed by a more

strict municipal supervision, and an ordinance which rendered penal

the perpetration of the prevailing habits of the people. Such deadly

fever-dens as the local "hotel," for instance, should be swept

away without remorse or hesitation, and a system of house-to-house

inspection introduced. In view of the fact that many foreigners as

well as natives have, of a necessity, to spend a certain amount of

time in the port, awaiting their steamers proceeding north or south,

it is the bounden duty of the local authorities to see that their

lives are not endangered by pestilential conditions existing in

the town. The small but important colony of hard-working port and

railway officials should also be considered, and especially as among

them are some few Europeans who are not accustomed to the unsanitary

system in vogue. I have little doubt that, once the attention of the

Salvador Government is directed to this matter, some improvement

will be introduced, and, once introduced, will be carefully

maintained.

[Illustration: MR. CHARLES T. SPENCER;

GENERAL MANAGER OF THE SALVADOR RAILWAY. APPOINTED MAY, 1911.]

[Illustration: DON JUAN AMAYO;

GOVERNOR OF THE DEPARTMENT OF CUSCATLÁN.]

Whatever prospect is in store for the port of Acajutla depends to a

great extent upon the success of the new shipping arrangements in

connection with the Salvador Railway, and these, as I have already

pointed out elsewhere, are making consistent and steady progress.

It is but a small place, and, although very picturesquely situated

upon a typically tropical coast, it is at some seasons found rather

trying, especially to Europeans. The surrounding scenery, like all

the country in Salvador, is attractive to the eye, the long line of

blue ocean, fringed with its lacelike foam, for ever gathering

and breaking in dazzling green and white waves upon the smooth and

sandy beach; the brilliant green of the mangrove, the cocoanut

palms, and the banana patches lend vividness of colour, while the

distant mountain-peaks, innumerable and fantastic of shape, give the

port of Acajutla a decidedly romantic aspect.

Although during the dry season a strong and cool wind blows for

several hours of the day, and at sunset changes to a pleasant

land-breeze, blowing sometimes steadily, and at others decidedly

gustily, during the night, the hours of darkness never seem so

long nor so trying, on account of the heat, the dryness, and the

mosquitoes, as is the case in so many parts of South and Central

America. Some day, maybe, this place will be taken in hand by the

speculative builder, and as great improvements effected as have been

introduced at Panamá, at Puerto Limón (Costa Rica), and at San José,

in the same Republic, but on the Pacific side of that Republic.

Acajutla is just as open to, and capable of, improvement and

reformation; between the enterprise of the Salvador Government and

the Salvador Railway Company there is no reason why this port should

not eventually become one of the most important in Central America.

La Libertad is the second of the three Salvadorean ports, as

already mentioned, Acajutla and La Unión being the other two. It

is a small but well-formed roadstead, but does not invariably

offer good shelter to the largest vessels, since sudden rollers

come in which are apt to snap ship's cables unless with a long

range. The foreshore is narrow, and is backed up by some lofty

hills--scarcely high enough to be called mountains, however--which

are partially cultivated, and form a pleasing setting to the Port

itself. The buildings are few as yet, but such as there are they

seem to be well constructed and of superior character both outwardly

and inwardly; the usual style of Latin-American architecture is

followed in regard to the one-story edifice, except in the case

of the Comandancia--official residence and office of the chief

authority--which is a large wooden edifice of two stories, the lower

portion forming the quarters of the garrison, and the upper part

the residence of the Comandante. About 100 men form the garrison,

the regiment quartered there being the 5th Artillery. They possess

several pieces of modern ordnance, which they know how to handle

with great expedition and efficiency. The guns are kept exceedingly

clean, and frequent drills serve to keep the artillerymen both

smart and interested. The Comandante of the Port, Captain Angel

Esteves, is quite a young man, possessed of a very pleasing face

and figure, as well as of charming manners. He has travelled in the

United States, and speaks English fairly well. He expressed to me

his intention of shortly visiting England in order to study military

matters, and "to see a country of which he had always heard great

accounts, and for which he entertained a profound admiration."

The streets of La Libertad are mostly paved with hewn stones, and

the whole place, consisting of but 700 or 800 inhabitants, is kept

in excellent sanitary order. A market is held here every week, and

a considerable amount of local trade is carried on from day to day.

The extensive warehouses and Customs sheds are also well filled with

foreign goods received from different ports of Europe and the United

States; but while as many as three or four ships call there every

week, I understand that these do not include any British bottoms

other than the steamer _Salvador_, belonging to the Salvador Railway

Company. The Comandante informed me that during the two years that

he had been in La Libertad he had not seen another British vessel at

the Port, the vessels calling there being either American, German or

French.

A large amount of coffee is exported from La Libertad, the bags

arriving out-bound from San Salvador, the capital, which is only

eight leagues (about twenty-four miles) distant, and the journey

usually being performed in a day and a half by ox-waggon, or in

three or four hours on mule-back.

Between the Capital and the Port are situated two towns--Zaragosa

and Santa Tecla--both of some importance. Around both also are

located many coffee and sugar _fincas_, such as that of La Laguna,

near San Salvador, the property of Herr Fédor Deininger, of whom I

have made mention elsewhere in this volume, and who is one of the

wealthiest, as well as one of the most enterprising, coffee-planters

and sugar-manufacturers living in Salvador.

La Libertad possesses a strong and well-designed iron pier, some 450

feet in length, with two large covered warehouses, steam-cranes,

and all the necessary apparatus for loading and unloading lighters.

There is a double set of rails running from the pit-head to the

Customs-house, and a fair equipment of flat-cars and platforms-cars.

The warehouses are kept scrupulously clean and airy, everything

being maintained in admirable working condition.

The pier and the wharf were constructed by a local company some

forty years ago, and the concession which covered that period having

only expired last year (1910), the pier and everything connected

with it have now become the property of the Salvadorean Government.

It is not intended, however, to make any additions or alterations

to the structure, which is in all respects equal to the port's

requirements at the present time. In all probability La Libertad

will not much increase in importance as a port, in view of the

extensions at Triunfo and at Acajutla, which already possesses a

railway to the Capital, and of La Unión, which ere long will also

have one to the interior of the Republic.

La Libertad must nevertheless always count as of some consequence,

if only on account of its being the one cable-station in the

Republic of Salvador, and which serves at the same time as a

receiving-station for Costa Rica, the one Central American Republic

which has no cable-station of its own. La Libertad shares with Colón

the monopoly of despatching and receiving all the cable-messages

from Central America and the United States. Its cable extends

to Salina Cruz, in Mexico, messages being thence transmitted to

Galveston, U.S.A. La Libertad's cable, although in constant use,

is regarded more as a "stand-by" in the event of a breakdown

on the Panama line, an eventuality of by no means infrequent

occurrence, especially in time of political trouble and when the

fierce Atlantic storms prevail. A full equipment is therefore

always maintained, although the active staff employed consists

of but two individuals--Mr. A. H. Hooper, an American of great

linguistic ability and remarkable literary judgment, and a young

Danish telegraphist, Fédor Michaelson. Both officials are expert

instrument-operators, and in depending upon the La Libertad station

as a substitute or a "stand-by," the Cable Company are leaning upon

no hollow reed. Messrs. Hooper and Michaelson are highly competent

officers, the latter, indeed, being one of the quickest and most

accurate operators that I have met with in any part of the world.

In La Libertad a number of press and Government messages from all

parts of the world are received every day, and sometimes almost all

day. The instruments used include Muirhead's automatic transmitter,

which will send 200 letters per minute, and Sir William Thompson's

patent recorder, as well as a complete fault-finding apparatus,

which enables the officials to at once trace the seat of any

breakdown which may occur to the cable, and thus despatch the

repair-ship to the necessary spot. While visiting the La Libertad

cable-station, I witnessed several messages being despatched and

received (and actually corresponded with Salina Cruz, Mexico), the

average speed being a little over fifty words in three minutes, or,

say, seventeen words a minute received and recorded.

At this cable-station above mentioned, a service of cablegrams

received for the Salvadorean Government averages 2,000 words a day.

The service is supplied free of all charge by the Government to

the Salvador newspapers, and is greatly appreciated by the reading

public. The source of supply is New York, and the Correspondent

responsible is the New York Correspondent of _La Prensa_, the great

Argentine daily newspaper, which enjoys the proud position of

possessing the most palatial offices of any newspaper in the world.

The news-cables are very informative, and are at the same time

commendably free from political bias or personal opinions--a rare

recommendation indeed, considering the land of their origin.

CHAPTER XVII

Agriculture--Government support and supervision--Annual

productions--Agricultural schools--Cattle-breeding--Coffee--

Tobacco--Forestry--Rice--Beans--Cacao--Balsam--Treatment by

natives.

It is only natural, in a country where agriculture forms one of the

most important sources of revenue, that the Government should have

directed its particular attention to the supervision and control of

the industry. The Land Law of Salvador consists of no fewer than

245 separate articles, which are contained under eight different

"titles," as follows: Title I.: Concerning the government and

control of the industry, and which contains six chapters; Title II.:

Concerning persons who devote themselves to agricultural industry,

containing five chapters; Title III.: Concerning rural property,

which contains four chapters; Title IV.: Concerning live-stock and

game, consisting of four chapters; Title V.: Concerning public

roads, containing but one chapter; Title VI.: Forest culture,

containing three chapters; Title VII.: Water for public use,

containing two chapters; Title VIII.: Concerning administrative

justice and guarantees afforded to rural property, consisting of

two chapters. This Land Law is a model of common sense, and shows

evidence of much ability in construction; it might well serve as

a model for similar executive ordinances in other countries, not

excepting that of Great Britain, where agricultural legislation and

Governmental assistance are sorely needed.

The Government of Salvador exercises its control over all

agricultural matters, firstly by the Executive, through the medium

of the Department of the Interior; secondly, through an Agricultural

Board; thirdly, through Departmental Governors, who are assisted by

Local Boards; fourthly, through municipalities, with their Mayors

and Agricultural Committees; and, fifthly, through the services of

Rural Inspectors, Special Assistants, and Commissioners. It is to be

observed that the Land Law of Salvador, while of an administrative

character, leaves in force the Civil Code of Civil Procedure, even

in those questions especially relating to rural property, without

prejudice to the few provisions relating to these codes, and which

can be regarded as additional or modifying provisions.

The annual amount of agricultural produce exported from the

Republic of Salvador may be put as follows: Coffee, 30,000 tons;

Sugar, 70,000 cwt.; Rubber, 500 cwt.; Balsam, 1,300 cwt. These

figures, however, are exclusive of the considerable amounts of each

commodity consumed in the country, and which likewise comprise large

quantities of cereals, such as corn, beans, rice, wheat, etc. The

Government is encouraging the cultivation of henequén, or _Sisal

agave_, as well as cotton, maize, and other useful plants, which

will figure to some degree in future returns from the Department of

Agriculture.

The Ministry of Agriculture and the Councils and Committees of the

Department, besides contributing to the development and increase of

agriculture, also assist the scientific improvement of the crops,

circulating among cultivators all those provisions which they

judge to be opportune, and as likely to conduce to the prosperity

of the industry. A step in the path of agricultural progress is

the creation and maintenance of the School of Agronomy, which is

carried on upon a plantation of some 200 manzanas in extent, where

there is water in abundance. The farm is located between the cities

of Sonsonate and Izalco, and lies at 450 metres elevation above the

level of the sea. The school building is constructed on a tableland,

which occupies the most elevated part of the plantation, and

consists of all the usual departments considered to be indispensable

for an establishment of its kind. It possesses laboratories for the

study of, and experiments in, chemistry and botany, and a small

model dairy, provided with all the necessary apparatus, instruments,

and tools. The total cost of the institution and its equipment

amounted to $64,498.19. It was inaugurated on June 4, 1907, and

in the month of September of the same year student classes were

opened, and they have since been maintained, under the direction of

the Agronomical Engineer, Don Félix Choussy, without interruption.

This school ranks as one of the most pronounced successes which the

Government of the Republic has achieved.

It would be difficult to find any locality in South America, not

excepting the Argentine Republic or Uruguay, where the breeding

of cattle could be engaged in, nor where finer butcher's meat can

be grown more successfully, than upon the magnificent pastoral

ranges of Salvador. Cattle are not only abundant, but they seem to

thrive with practically little or no attention. The meat secured

is of a delicious and firm nature, but, unfortunately, as in all

tropical countries, it must be cooked and eaten the same day that

the animal is killed. The natives do not deem this any objection;

but Europeans, who are accustomed to the taste of tender and juicy

meats, do not so generally approve. The price of beef is moderate

in extreme, and it can be found on sale in the markets all the year

round.

Sheep are somewhat scarce, and they do not appear to thrive here

as they do in some parts of Mexico or in Argentina. I should not

consider Salvador a good sheep-country, and the breed is not in any

way encouraged. Possibly the heat of the plains is a bar to any

great success attending the raising of these animals, while, on the

other hand, mutton is not a popular diet with the people, who are

not in any case very heavy meat-consumers. On the great majority of

small estates, and even among the poorest of the people, hogs are

very largely bred, and some fine specimens are to be met with. Among

poultry, fowls and turkeys, again, are numerous, and generally of

excellent quality, large and plump birds being obtainable for very

moderate prices at all times. In this case also it is customary to

cook and consume the birds a few hours after they have been killed,

so that a tender fowl is not often met with. I noticed but few

ducks or geese, and the latter birds may be regarded as somewhat

of a rarity. Quantities of wild-fowl, however, find their way to

the market, and there they fetch moderately good prices. Immense

flocks of duck are found at certain seasons of the year feeding

and breeding upon the many inland lakes, and they afford excellent

sport to the few guns which break in upon their almost undisturbed

repose. These quiet and peaceful lagoons, in their entrancing scenic

surroundings, form an ideal spot for the sportsman, since they

would be found an almost untouched field for his amusement.

Salvador, from the conformation of its surface and the nature of

its soil, is essentially an agricultural State. The basin of the

River San Miguel, that of Sonsonate, and the valley proper of the

Lempa, no less than the alluvians bordering on the Pacific, are of

an extraordinarily fertile character and especially adaptable for

the production of tropical staples. Around the Bay of Jiquilisco

and the port of La Libertad, cotton has been cultivated with

success for the last sixty years, but it is only up to within

comparatively recent years that the principal products of the

State have included indigo, sugar and maize. In many respects the

State of Salvador differs agriculturally from the South and other

Central American Republics. In the first place, there is but little

unappropriated land to be found in it, nearly the whole being the

property of private individuals; secondly, the people are active and

intelligent--naturally so, and not merely by education; they are

unquestionably industrious. Certainly they are the best cultivators

in Central America; and under favourable circumstances--that is

to say, during periods of political tranquillity--they can find

abundant employment for their labour.

[Illustration: NATIVE HABITATION IN THE HOT COUNTRY.]

[Illustration: NATIVE MAKING SUGAR FROM A PRIMITIVE WOODEN MILL.]

Indigo, or, to give it its native name, "jiquilite," for long

constituted the chief article in the exports of the country, but

in point of importance it has had to give place to coffee. Indigo

is found in practically all parts of Salvador, but especially in

the districts of Zacatecoluca and San Miguel, and some idea may be

obtained of the great space of ground which is, or rather which

used to be, appropriated to indigo, when it is stated that it takes

about 2 cwt. of the green plant to yield 8, 10 or 12 ounces of

indigo; on the land which is found most suitable to it, 12 ounces

are seldom exceeded, but there are records which show that in

favourable seasons, upon taking an average of five years, upwards

of 12,000 serrones (1 serron=150 pounds) have been produced in the

entire Republic. A quantity such as this, in former times, would be

valued at $3,000,000 in the European markets; but as long ago as

the year 1850 the value of the product had become greatly reduced,

and it would not even then have realized one-half that sum. To-day,

when aniline dyes take the place of indigo, it would be difficult

to place anything like an accurate price upon such an amount of

produce, nor to suppose that it would be marketable at all. How much

the production has fallen off in later years can be seen when it is

said that the total amount produced in 1891 was only 7,889 serrones,

and in the year following, 9,587 serrones.

Indigo is produced from an indigenous triennial plant, _Indigofera

Añil_, which is its botanical name, and the plant flourishes

luxuriously upon nearly all kinds of soil. The land requires

comparatively little preparation, being merely burnt and slightly

ploughed. The seed, which is scattered broadcast, is sown in the

months of February and April, and the growth of the plant is so

rapid that by the end of August it has attained a height of from 5

to 6 feet, and is then fit for cutting. The product of the first

year is but moderate, and it is at this stage called "tinta nueva,"

the strength being reserved for the second and third years, when

the product is known as "tinta retoño." When the crop is ripe, the

process of manufacture is carried on daily without interruption

until the whole of the crop is garnered. Just as the plant requires

little attention and no skill, so the manufacture of the indigo

calls for neither a very difficult nor any expensive process; all

that it needs is that it be cut promptly and at the proper period,

otherwise it becomes worthless. This means that the proprietors

of the larger estates must have an ample and a reliable supply of

labour at hand, which desideratum cannot be implicitly relied upon

in the present condition of the market.

Next to indigo, coffee ranks second in importance in the country's

agricultural products; the very finest berry is grown in the

Republic. It may be found in practically all parts, wherever

the land rises between 1,500 and 4,000 feet above sea-level.

The choicest and most productive plantations are located in the

Departments of Ahuachapán, La Libertad, San Salvador, San Vicente,

Santa Ana and Sonsonate. The berry is also grown in Usulután, La Paz

and Cuscatlán, many hundreds of thousands of additional trees having

been planted throughout this part of the country during the past two

or three years.

The coffee-tree is a tender shrub, and needs careful attending and

protection from the sun from the time of planting, and even for a

lengthy period after it has begun to produce crops. It required a

great many years to convince the cautious inhabitants of Salvador

that there was money to be made in growing coffee, and up till some

fifty years ago little attention was paid to the industry, since

few opportunities existed for disposing promptly of a whole crop.

The stimulus which latter-day transportation offers was wanting, as

was the world-wide demand for the coffee-berry which has since been

met with. Since the industry was first seriously entered upon, the

resources of the State have been greatly augmented, and the welfare

of a large labouring class has correspondingly increased.

I was informed upon one estate, or _finca_, that the trees in

Salvador were sufficiently matured when three years old to produce

a fair crop, and that this yield continued to increase until the

seventh year, when it reached its maximum. It is calculated that

the outlay for labour and expenses in producing coffee amounts to

between 2-1/2d. to 3d. per pound, while the retail price varies from

5d. to 1s. It may be taken, on an average, that one-half of the

annual crop is consumed in the country, and that the remainder is

exported. There is a general opinion prevalent among experts that

Salvadorean coffee is superior in quality to that of Brazil, or even

to the Blue Mountain (Jamaica) berry; while as to the pre-eminence

of the aroma over both of these rivals there can be no question

whatever.

Sugar-cane growing is an industry for which the genial climate

and the bounteous soil of Salvador are admirably adapted, and

the cane is cultivated to a greater or less extent in all of the

fourteen different Departments. As I have pointed out in another

part of this volume, when describing sugar machinery (see Chapter

XII.), there is a great need of improved equipment, which, were it

provided, would probably serve to double, and even in some cases

to treble, the amount of this particular product. But even with

the imperfect reduction work which is carried out upon nine-tenths

of the _fincas_, sugar is produced to such an extent as not only

to abundantly supply the home requirements, but to provide a

considerable share of the country's exports. The greater part of

the sugar used in the country is turned out in the shape of small

blocks or cakes, weighing about 2 pounds each, and bearing the

name of _panela_, similar to that produced in Brazil and Mexico. A

large quantity of this stuff, which looks and tastes very much like

toffee, while it also resembles the maple sugar of North America,

is used in the manufacture of native rum. Conical-shaped loaves of

compact white sugar, weighing from 25 to 40 pounds each, are also

manufactured, but are mostly made for export.

In the "golden days" of California, the greater part of the rum

which was consumed upon the gold-fields came from Sonsonate in

Salvador, being packed in 14 and 15 gallon casks and greybeards of

from 3 to 6 gallons, suitable for easy transport to the Californian

diggings.

For some years past Salvador has been gaining a reputation for

the excellent quality of its tobacco, and there are several

manufactories established in the Republic, which are doing

remarkably well. One of the best known for cigars is that of Señora

Josefa B. de Diaz, the amiable proprietress of the Hotel América, at

Cojutepeque.

Half a century ago Salvador was exporting tobacco to Mexico, and had

been doing a fair amount of trade with that country even in the time

of the Spanish dominion. The tobacco production collectively in all

the provinces of the Republic yield a net revenue to the Government

of more than £500,000 annually; but the method of administering and

collecting the taxes in former times helped as much as anything else

to retard the industry. For instance, under the old régime a general

system was subscribed, and scrupulously adhered to, which precluded

people from raising tobacco, except when they should obtain a

licence to do so from the authorities; and the growers, under

one of the many irritating conditions attached to the official

permission, were bound to deliver the entire crop, after it had been

dried and prepared, into the Government factories at a stipulated

rate per pound; it was then retailed to the community at a fixed

price, and yielded the substantial revenue referred to. Later on

each province passed its own laws for regulating this branch of the

public income, and, inasmuch as these laws were neither uniform nor

permanent, great confusion prevailed and much loss was incurred,

while an immense amount of smuggling went on, as may well be

believed.

The Government of Salvador of recent years has adopted quite

different methods, and has done much to encourage the industry,

such, for instance, as importing tobacco-seed and distributing it

gratis among cultivators, with the idea of promoting the culture of

the plant; while at the same time it has imported native cultivators

from Cuba for the purpose of teaching the method of growing and

working the tobacco as practised on that island. In spite of this

free and valuable instruction, I am afraid that the methods of

handling the tobacco in Salvador are often found to be decidedly

primitive, the growers allowing the leaves to dry in the sun without

detaching them from the stalks, the latter being cut a few inches

above the ground. They are then piled in stacks from 6 to 9 feet in

diameter and from 3 to 4 feet in height, heavy weights being placed

on the top, and the whole covered over with a thick layer of banana

leaves. Fermentation then ensues, and by this action the colour and

aroma of the leaves are brought out. Only by guesswork is it decided

when the process is complete, and the tobacco is then taken from

the stack, exposed for a short time to the air, whereafter the

leaves are detached from the stalks, sorted, and tied into bundles,

and then sent to market. It will be recognized that the choiceness

of the tobacco and its excellent quality must be very high when they

can withstand successfully such a crude treatment as this. How much

more valuable might the plant's product become as a commodity, and

how much higher would be the revenue yielded, were modern methods of

treating the leaf to be introduced!

In some sections of Salvador tobacco-growers have resorted to an

ingenious method of ridding the tobacco-leaves of destructive

insects and worms that feed upon the tender young plants at certain

periods of their development. A kind of turkey, known locally under

the name of "chompipe," a bird which was brought originally from the

West Indies, and is capable of being easily domesticated, is kept in

flocks of considerable size in the vicinity of the tobacco-fields,

and at certain hours of the day these are driven through the fields

in order to rid the tobacco-plants of worms and insects.

These turkeys do their work so well that the smallest insect fails

to escape them, and yet they pick them off with such care that the

tender leaves remain free from injury. Without the use of these

fowls, labourers must be employed to go through the fields at

stated intervals to pick off the insects and worms from the leaves;

and this method, aside from being tedious and unsatisfactory,

often damages the leaves through rough handling, causing defective

development and a reduction of their value as a marketable product.

I found, in my travels through the country, other classes of

agriculture being pursued besides those which have been mentioned.

For instance, india-rubber is a distinctly profitable branch, in

spite of the primitive methods pursued in collecting it, and which

are still, for the most part, in vogue. The Government has made

many earnest efforts to improve conditions and to teach the people

how to both cultivate and to collect the precious material, but it

is not possible to congratulate those who pursue the industry upon

the amount of success attained. I have been shown the extensive

forests of promising-looking rubber-trees growing in the provinces

of La Paz, La Unión, San Miguel, and Usulután; but when I inquired

into the methods followed by those who are employed in collecting

the gum, I found the most wasteful system in force, and the work

generally conducted in a desultory, indifferent manner, with the

result that it hardly paid to follow the occupation at all. Under

properly organized labour and systematically managed, rubber-growing

ought to, and no doubt one day will, become a valuable feature of

the country's industries.

Then, again, rice is cultivated, but not at all scientifically.

Nevertheless some fairly good crops are annually gathered in,

mostly of the upland variety, and grown upon the tablelands and

hillsides. Very little rice, comparatively speaking, is exported,

the greater part of that produced being consumed locally. Some of

the neighbouring Republics take a small quantity of the grain from

Salvador, but as a rule these States grow their own supplies, and

need but little importation. It seems a great pity that, with land

so eminently suitable for rice cultivation, so little--and that

little of such poor quality--should be annually produced in Salvador.

Cacao is one of the leading products of this much-favoured country,

and it can be found growing more luxuriantly in Salvador than

in any of the Central American States. Very little attention is

given, however, to the method of cultivation, in spite of the fact

that cacao is one of the oldest agricultural specialities of this

country. History shows that at one time Sonsonate and San Vicente

were famous alike for the quantity and the excellence of the cacao

grown there. Such plants as are cultivated now are utilized almost

entirely in the country in the manufacture of chocolate, etc., and

this product figures but insignificantly among the country's exports.

Beans--known here, as in all Latin-American countries, as

_frijoles_--form a large proportion of the humbler people's

daily diet. They are large, brown, and flat in appearance, very

nourishing, and very palatable when properly cooked. They are grown

all over the Republic, and seem to flourish even in poor-quality

soil. Indian corn, or maize, wheat, potatoes, sweet-potatoes, yams,

and other vegetables in great variety, flourish here, and one is

reminded of a famous cultivator's exordium upon the merits of

Jamaica: "You have," said he, "but to tickle the ground with a hoe,

and it at once smiles a yam."

Except in Brazil, which probably stands unrivalled among the South

American States as a precious-wood-yielding country, I know of no

State possessing finer timber forests than Salvador. I have ridden

mile upon mile through magnificent timber-tree lands--the cedar, the

mahogany, the ebony, the granadilla, and many other valuable cabinet

woods; but upon inquiry as to what is being done with all this

precious material provided by a bountiful Nature, I was informed

that it is rarely marketed, although it is cut occasionally for

local building purposes. Many of the larger private houses and

public buildings in San Salvador are constructed of native woods,

and one is struck with the beauty of their grain and their extreme

hardness, while they will mostly take on a high polish. In the

lowlands there is an extremely large variety of dye woods to be

met with; but here, again, the great forests are left almost

untouched, many of them being as trackless as the day that they came

into being. The only tree among these latter of which use is made

is the _mora_, or fustic of commerce. The pine-forests are also

just beginning to be exploited, and one or two successful lumber

enterprises have been started. The Salvadorean forest pine is fully

equal in durability, in quality, and in appearance, to the Southern

States _ceiba_ and other pine-woods.

The pride of place in the forestry of the Republic belongs

to the beautiful and valuable balsam-tree--the _Myrospermum

Salvatoriensis_--yielding what is known to the Materia Medica as

"balsam of Peru." The Indian appellation for it is _hoitzilixitl_.

Why is it called "balsam of _Peru_" if it is the "balsam of

Salvador"? I am told, because the precious gum was exported as an

article of commerce to Peru from Salvador in the early days of the

Spanish Dominion, and thence found its way to Europe. As a matter

of fact, it is to be found growing in no country of the world

_but_ Salvador, and there in only a few parts of it. "La Costa del

Bálsamo" is to be seen marked upon any map of Central America, lying

to the seaward of the great volcanic range of mountains; and here

it is that the trees are met with, standing together in so close

a mass that the daylight seldom enters, and sunlight never. The

whole district is inhabited by Indians, who have come to regard

the place as their own undisputed territory. They live entirely

upon the product of the balsam-tree, hewing down huge planks of

this and other woods, which they market to great advantage. The

balsam is their main source of wealth, however; and although to-day

the annual product falls short of what was realized, say, half a

century ago, it still figures very largely in the annual exports of

the country. Strangely enough, the tree cannot be cultivated in any

other part of Salvador, although the climatic conditions, the soil,

and the physical characteristics, may be found suitable. Similar

experiences are found in Jamaica, where the pimento-tree is to be

met with in one particular locality only, and nowhere else, even

careful planting proving quite useless to alter or improve upon the

conditions which have been dictated by Nature.

[Illustration: A STREET IN SONSONATE (CALLE DE MERCADO).]

[Illustration: TYPE OF "QUINTA" OR COUNTRY HOUSE IN SANTA TECLA (NEW

SAN SALVADOR).]

The Indian gatherers obtain the balsam from the tree by scraping the

skin of the bark to the depth of one-tenth part of an inch, using

for the purpose a sharp native knife, or _machete_. This scraping

is done in small patches, extending to 12 or 15 inches square, the

incisions being made both across and along the trunk and the largest

branches of the tree. Immediately after the operation of scratching

is completed, the portions scraped are heated with burning torches,

which are made out of the dried branches of a tree known locally as

_chimaliote_; and after burning the surfaces are covered over with

pieces of old cotton cloth, under which they are left for a time. By

punching the edges of the cloths pressed against the tree with the

point of the _machete_, they are made to adhere. In this condition

they are again left for a space of twenty-four hours, and even as

long as forty-eight hours (especially in the month of January),

when the rags are gathered and submitted to a strong and hot

decoction in big iron pots. While still hot the rags are put under a

great pressure in a primitive kind of machine, which is made by the

Indians themselves, and composed of a combination of wooden levers

and strong ropes, worked entirely by hand. The balsam juice then

oozes out, and drips slowly into a receptacle, where it is allowed

to cool. It is then in the stage known as "raw balsam." Afterwards

it has to be refined, which means boiling it again and draining off

all impurities, when it is packed in iron cans and sent away to

market.

There is another method, which was explained to me, for extracting

the balsam--namely, by entirely barking the trees and heavy

branches, a process which, of course, kills the tree outright, or

at least renders it valueless for a good many years. The bark is

ground down to a coarse kind of powder; it is then boiled, the

juice or gum floating to the top, and is thus collected. But this

process, although speedy, really destroys the full value of the gum,

which only realizes a low price when treated in this manner. The

Government forbids this method to be adopted, as a matter of fact;

but the Indians, on the "get rich quick" principle, practise it all

the same. The balsam, as seen in the market, looks like a thick,

fatty, viscid resin, of a deep brown or black colour, and emitting a

delicious odour.

The analysis is--Cynamic acid, 46; resin, 32; benzylic alcohol, 20,

per cent. Balsam is used in making perfumery and soaps, and as an

unguent; while for asthma and other pectoral complaints its odour is

considered very beneficial.

The personal appearance of the Salvadorean peasant, as will be seen

from the group shown in the photograph given, is unquestionably an

agreeable one. The men are short in stature as a rule, but they

possess regular and amiable features--those who are not of the

pronounced negro type; while the women are also usually physically

attractive, especially when young.

In regard to native costume, in the villages and smaller towns the

men still wear the same attire as they have adopted for some hundred

years past--namely, loose and baggy trousers of cotton spun and

woven locally, mostly on the native hand-looms; a shapeless coat or

loose jacket of the same material; and a large palm-leaf hat without

any ribbon, binding, or other ornamentation. The women's ordinary

attire consists of a dark blue cotton or cloth woven skirt, a loose

cotton blouse with very short sleeves, and the native shawl worn

gracefully over the head. To-day many affect the European style of

costume, and almost generally they do so in the Capital and the

larger towns.

The Indians are very domesticated, and are naturally of an

affectionate and amiable disposition. It is quite a common

occurrence to find several generations living together in one

small but cleanly-kept hut, married and single members of the

family occupying the same room, the oldest member--grandfather or

great-grandfather--being much deferred to, and, as a rule, governing

his extensive family with a firm but gentle hand. Parental authority

is greatly respected in this country among the natives, and family

life is often found very beautiful in some respects, offering,

indeed, a marked contrast to what one finds existing in European

countries, especially in England, among the working classes of the

population.

The Indian inhabitants of Salvador are supposed to be lineal

descendants of the Nahwals, whose other branch are found in Mexico

and Guatemala. Certainly there is a strong connection both in

their physical attributes and their ancient dialects. Naturally,

the aboriginal population has been much modified by nearly four

centuries of contact with the whites, and an almost equally long

subjugation to the Spanish rule. Nevertheless there are some towns

in the Republic which to-day retain their primitive customs, and

in such, to all appearances, the aboriginal blood has undergone

scarcely any, if indeed the slightest, intermixture. In most places,

however, the original language has fallen into disuse, or merely a

few words, which have also been partially adopted by the whites, are

retained. The original names of places have in some localities been

preserved with the greatest tenacity, and afford a sure guide in

defining the extent of territory over which the various aboriginal

nations have been spread.

I have visited several of the towns situated in the neighbourhood

of Sonsonate, where the inhabitants are almost exclusively Indians,

and I was then told that the language which they habitually speak to

one another is also aboriginal. So curiously attached are some of

these people to their ancient speech and government that in the year

of 1832 a number of the inhabitants of San Vicente arose in revolt

against the new government which was then imposed, and attempted to

restore their ancient dominion, at the same time threatening to kill

all the whites as well as everyone showing a trace of European blood

in their veins.

The new census of the country will have been taken on July 1, 1911

(too late for inclusion in this volume, which will have gone to

press), in accordance with instructions of the President, the

officers engaged being attached to the General Bureau of Statistics.

Every effort has been made to render the returns in as accurate a

form and as complete as possible. The present population, according

to the statistics of 1910, showed that the number of inhabitants

stood at 1,084,850, of whom some 200,000 were foreigners.

CHAPTER XVIII

Departments--Capital cities--Population--Districts--Salvador

Department--City of San Salvador--Situation--Surroundings--

Destruction in 1854 by earthquake--Description of catastrophe--

Loss of life actually small--Evacuation of city--Recuperative

faculty of the people.

The Republic of Salvador is divided into 14 Departments, which

are again subdivided into 31 districts, 27 cities, 51 towns, 164

villages, and 215 hamlets. The following table shows the names

of such Departments, with their respective capital cities, their

population, exclusive of foreigners, and the number of districts

which they contain:

+-------------+-------------------+-------------------------+------------+

| | | Population. | |

|Departments. | Capital Cities. | | Number of |

| | +-----------+-------------+ Districts. |

| | | Capitals. | Departments.| |

+-------------+-------------------+-----------+-------------+------------+

|San Salvador | San Salvador | 32,000 | 65,000 | 3 |

|La Libertad | New San Salvador | 11,000 | 49,000 | 2 |

|Sonsonate | Sonsonate | 11,500 | 41,500 | 2 |

|Ahuachapán | Ahuachapán | 12,000 | 37,000 | 2 |

|Santa Ana | Santa Ana | 33,750 | 80,500 | 3 |

|Chalatenango | Chalatenango | 6,000 | 54,000 | 2 |

|Cuscatlán | Cojutepeque | 8,000 | 62,000 | 2 |

|Cabañas | Sensuntepeque | 10,000 | 35,000 | 2 |

|San Vicente | San Vicente | 11,000 | 40,500 | 2 |

|La Paz | Zacatecoluca | 6,500 | 70,000 | 2 |

|Usulután | Usulután | 6,000 | 42,000 | 2 |

|San Miguel | San Miguel | 23,000 | 60,000 | 2 |

|Morozán | Gotera | 3,100 | 35,100 | 3 |

|La Unión | La Unión | 3,700 | 35,700 | 2 |

| | +-----------+-------------+------------+

| | [5] Total | 177,550 | 707,300 | -- |

+-------------+-------------------+-----------+-------------+------------+

[5] The above statistics are out of date; the present population of

the Republic of Salvador is estimated at 1,200,000.

DEPARTMENT OF SAN SALVADOR.

_Cities._--San Salvador, Tonacatepeque (2).

_Towns._--Mejicanos, Apopa, Nejapa, Santo Tomas, Panchimalco (5).

This was one of the first of the original divisions into which

the Republic was divided in the year 1821, at which period the

separation from the neighbouring kingdom of Guatemala took place.

San Salvador is bounded on the north by the Departments of

Chalatenango and Cuscatlán, on the east by Cuscatlán and La Paz, on

the south by La Libertad and La Paz, and on the west by La Libertad.

A great variety of scenery is met with, and no portion of the

country can be described as anything but beautiful and romantic.

In the southern part is encountered the rugged and picturesque

coastal range of mountains; the central portion is broken up into

a number of small, fertile valleys of surprising scenic beauty

and fertility; while the northern section is covered with hills,

which, although always green, are destitute of large trees. The

Department contains two volcanoes--San Salvador, or Quezaltepeque,

as the Indians name it, and Ilopango, which is situated upon a lake

bearing the same name. Surrounding the capital are an immense number

of prosperous _fincas_, or agricultural estates, market-gardens,

and great stretches of tobacco, coffee, sugar, rice, corn and bean

plantations. The whole population are engaged in these industries,

the amount of labour necessary being abundantly supplied, and to

all appearances the people seem extremely prosperous and contented.

I failed, indeed, to observe any signs of either poverty or

disorderliness, while, on the contrary, nearly everyone encountered

appeared merry, well fed, and decently dressed. There is little

reason to suppose that these evidences were deceptive.

In spite of the fact that San Salvador has been visited by so many

different volcanic eruptions, it has really suffered less from

earthquakes or their effects than either Costa Rica or Guatemala,

its immediate neighbours. There are still living in Salvador those

who remember and speak of the great seismic catastrophe which befell

the Capital City in the month of April, 1854, by which that place

was almost completely ruined. Previous to this catastrophe, the

city, in point of size and importance, had ranked third in Central

America, Guatemala City, in the State of the same name, being first,

and Leon, in Nicaragua, second. In regard to the first named,

Guatemala City still remains the capital of its State; but Leon,

although ranking as the largest city in the Republic of Nicaragua,

has had to yield to Managua the pride of place as capital and seat

of Government.

The name of "San Salvador" was chosen by its pious but pitiless

founder, Don Jorge de Alvarado, who conquered the territory for the

Spanish Government after Columbus had located it, in commemoration

of his final decisive victory over the Indians of Cuscatlán, which

battle was gained on the eve of the festival of San Salvador. During

the long dominion of Spain in South and Central America, the city

was the seat of the Governor, or Intendente, of the province of San

Salvador, who, again, was subservient to the Captain-General of

Guatemala. After its independence San Salvador became the capital

of the new State, and it was early distinguished for its thorough

devotion to the principles of the Liberal party in Central America.

Even as far back as 1853, a notable writer of the day who was

travelling in Salvador described the city as "a very beautiful

town," and also spoke of the general intelligence, the industry,

and the enterprise of its inhabitants, who, in his opinion,

"surpassed in these respects the people of any of the other large

towns in Central America." This visitor, as are all who sojourn for

any length of time in San Salvador, became much impressed by the

picturesque position of the city, which, as already indicated, lies

in the midst of a broad but elevated plain, situated on the summit

of a high tableland or coast range of mountains, which intervene

between the valley of the River Lempa and the Pacific.

By barometrical admeasurement, San Salvador lies 2,115 feet above

the sea. As a consequence, its climate is found pleasantly cool

as compared with that of coast alluvians, although unfavourably

modified in this respect by a low range of hills on the southern

border of the plain, which shuts off the full benefit of the

sea-breeze. Were it not for this obstacle, the winds blowing from

the ocean, which is only twenty miles distant, would reach the city.

As an indication of the kind of temperature one meets with, it may

be said that in August the maximum of temperature rarely exceeds 80°

Fahrenheit, the minimum 70°, and the mean average 76.3°, which, as

will be generally recognized, constitutes a delightful climate.

The hills which surround the plain of San Salvador are covered with

verdure, which keeps its colour and freshness owing to the heavy

dews which fall and the absence of dust, while a fair amount of rain

can always be depended upon.

Not more than three miles to the westward of the Capital City, and

watching over it like a gigantic sentinel, stands the magnificent

volcano of San Salvador. In this respect one is reminded of some

other Spanish-American cities, such as La Paz in Bolivia, with the

superb Misti; and, again, of Mexico City, with its two ever-watchful

volcanic guardians--Ixtaccihuatl, which stands 16,060 feet in

height, and Popocatepetl, which towers to 17,782 feet in the air.

The cone of San Salvador volcano, which rises on the northern border

or edge of the crater, is, however, approximately but 8,000 feet in

height.

Some fifty or sixty years ago San Salvador, judging from

contemporary pictures, must have been even more charming in

appearance than it is to-day; then its population, however, scarcely

exceeded 25,000. With the exception of the central and paved part

of the city, it was eminently sylvan, being literally embowered in

masses of tropical fruit-trees. The red-roofed dwellings, closely

shut in with evergreen hedges of cactus, shadowed over by palm and

orange trees, with a dense background of broad-leaved plantains,

almost sinking beneath their heavy clusters of rich golden fruit,

must have presented a delightful scenic picture, at once romantic

and peaceful.

From contemporary reports, it is pitiful to read that this exquisite

scene was subsequently completely devastated in the brief space of

ten seconds, for precisely that period elapsed between the beginning

and the end of the awful earthquake of April 16, 1854. I have been

shown pictures of the ill-fated city which were painted a year or

two before the disaster, as well as one which showed San Salvador

as it stood in 1839, the date of a previous similar disaster. The

appearance in both cases was singularly attractive in regard to

the character of the buildings and their scenic surroundings. In

the freshness of their affliction the inhabitants determined never

again to return to the city, but, as history has proved, they did

so in exactly the same manner as the ever-faithful inhabitants of

Mount Vesuvius have returned again and again to the scene of their

numerous previous misfortunes. The people of Guatemala were somewhat

wiser. Soon after 1773 they deserted their capital, which stood

at the foot of the volcanoes Agua and Fuego (Water and Fire), and

which was overwhelmed by a volcanic eruption, for they then built

themselves a new place of abode, which is the present handsome city

and Capital of the Republic.

I have been afforded the following interesting account of the

destruction of San Salvador, a description which was published in

a small Government organ dated May 2, 1854, and which provides so

graphic a description of what occurred that I make no apology for

reproducing it in these pages.

The chronicler of that day says:

"The night of April 16, 1854, will ever be one of sad and bitter

memory to the people of Salvador. On that unfortunate night our

happy and beautiful capital was made a heap of ruins. Movements

of the earth were felt on the morning of Holy Thursday, preceded

by sounds like the rolling of heavy artillery over pavements,

and like distant thunder. The people were a little alarmed in

consequence of this phenomenon, but it did not prevent them from

meeting in the churches to celebrate the solemnities of the

day. On Saturday all was quiet, and confidence was restored.

The people of the neighbourhood assembled as usual to celebrate

the Passover. The night of Saturday was quiet, so also was the

whole of Sunday. The heat, it is true, was considerable, but

the atmosphere was calm and serene. For the first three hours

of the evening there was nothing of unusual occurrence, but

at half-past nine a severe shock of an earthquake, occurring

without the usual preliminary noises, alarmed the whole city.

Many families left their houses and made encampments in the

public squares, while others prepared to pass the night in their

respective courtyards.

"Finally, at ten minutes to eleven, without further premonition

of any kind, the earth began to heave and tremble with

such fearful force that in ten seconds the entire city was

prostrated. The crashing of houses and churches stunned the ears

of the terrified inhabitants, while a cloud of dust from the

falling ruins enveloped them in a pall of impenetrable darkness.

Not a drop of water could be got to relieve the half-choked and

the suffocating, for the wells and fountains were filled up or

made dry. The clock-tower of the cathedral carried a great part

of that edifice with it in its fall. The towers of the church of

San Francisco crashed down upon the episcopal oratory and part

of the palace. The Church of Santo Domingo was buried beneath

its towers, and the College of the Assumption was entirely

ruined. The new and beautiful edifice of the University was

demolished. The Church of the Mercéd separated in the centre,

and its walls fell outward to the ground. Of the private houses,

a few were left standing, but all were rendered uninhabitable.

It is worthy of remark that the walls left standing are old

ones; all those of modern construction have fallen. The public

edifices of the Government and the city shared in the common

destruction.

"The devastation was effected, as we have said, in the first ten

seconds; for although the succeeding shocks were tremendous,

and accompanied by fearful rumblings beneath our feet, they had

comparatively trifling results, for the reason that the first

jar left but little for their ravages.

"Solemn and terrible was the picture presented, on the dark,

funereal night, of a whole people clustering in the _plazas_,

and, on their knees, crying with loud voices to Heaven for

mercy, or in agonizing accents calling for their children and

their friends, whom they believed to be buried beneath the

ruins. A heaven opaque and ominous; a movement of the earth

rapid and unequal, causing a terror indescribable; an intense

sulphurous odour filling the atmosphere, and indicating an

approaching eruption of the volcano; streets filled with ruins

or overhung by threatening walls; a suffocating cloud of dust,

almost rendering respiration impossible--such was the spectacle

presented by the unhappy city on that memorable and awful night.

"A hundred boys were shut up in the college, many invalids

crowded the hospitals, and the barracks were full of soldiers.

The sense of the catastrophe which must have befallen them

gave poignancy to the first moments of reflection after the

earthquake was over. It was believed that at least a fourth

part of the inhabitants had been buried beneath the ruins.

The members of the Government hastened to ascertain as far as

practicable the extent of the catastrophe, and to quiet the

public mind. It was found that the loss of life had been much

less than was supposed, and it now appears that the number of

the killed will not exceed one hundred, and of wounded fifty.

Among the latter is the Bishop, who received a severe blow on

the head, the late President, Señor Dueñas, a daughter of the

President, and the wife of the Secretary of the Legislative

Chambers, the latter severely.

"Fortunately, the earthquake has not been followed by rains,

which gives an opportunity to disinter the public archives, as

also many of the valuables contained in the dwellings of the

citizens.

"The movements of the earth still continue with strong shocks,

and the people, fearing a general swallowing up of the site of

the city, or that it may be buried under some sudden eruption

of the volcano, are hastening away, taking with them their

household gods, the sweet memories of their infancy, and their

domestic animals--perhaps the only property left for the support

of their families--exclaiming with Virgil: 'Nos patriæ fines et

dulcia linquimus arva.'"

I have witnessed scenes in Valparaiso, in San Francisco, and in

Kingston, Jamaica, almost precisely similar to these so graphically

portrayed; but in all these cases the loss of life was considerably

greater than occurred in San Salvador. To-day the capital of the

Republic bears not a single trace of the disaster, nor yet of some

subsequent visitations; for the recuperative faculties of these

optimistic peoples are as astonishing as they are thorough and

instantaneous in the manner in which they assert themselves.

CHAPTER XIX

City of San Salvador--San Salvador as place of

residence--Theatres--Parks--Streets--Hotels--Domestic

servants--Hospitality of residents--Societies and

associations--Educational establishments--Government

buildings--Religion and churches--Casino--Hospitals and

institutions--Disastrous conflagrations--Public monuments.

There are few more pleasant cities as a place of residence

for all the year round than San Salvador. The climate is very

agreeable, while the situation of the city, scenically speaking, is

exceptionally beautiful, being located as it is 2,115 feet above the

level of the sea in the valley of Cuscatlán, or, as it is called in

the vernacular, "Valle de las Hamacas" (the Vale of the Hammocks).

This district has been so named, I understand, because it lies

directly in the line of the severest earthquake action, and has many

times in the past been "rocked and swung" by the waves of movement,

and which have been rendered unusually destructive by the reflex

action of the high hills which half encircle the place.

San Salvador was founded, as already observed, by Don Jorge de

Alvarado, brother of the famous Spanish conqueror, Don Pedro de

Alvarado, on April 4, 1543, and from 1834 to 1839 it was the capital

of the new Republic, a dignity which was in later years transferred

to the city of San Vicente; while Cojutepeque upon three separate

occasions, as pointed out more fully elsewhere, was also used as

the Federal Capital. In the year 1840, however, San Salvador

became the designated metropolis, and has since remained so. Here

are located all the Government Departments, as well as the Supreme

Civil and Military Courts, in addition to the headquarters of the

Ecclesiastical Government.

In the year 1854, the city having been ruined, as we have seen,

the Government as a consequence ordered the founding of Nuéva

San Salvador, or Santa Tecla, which lies some eight miles to the

south-west, and about 800 feet higher, as a city of refuge. To this

place many families transferred their homes, and it is now a very

prosperous place, with a population exceeding 11,000 inhabitants.

Many good people of San Salvador, however, were not so much

discouraged by their misfortune after all, and they very pluckily

rebuilt the city, only, however, to again see it laid low by the

even greater catastrophe of March 19, 1873. Gradually, and for the

third time, this city rose from its ruins, and there are to-day no

traces in its streets of any of the various disasters which have

visited it.

San Salvador is altogether a well-constructed and even a handsome

city, with several notable public buildings which would grace any

European capital. Among these are the Casa Blanca, the Artillery

Barracks, the National Institute, the University, the Theatre,

the Market, the Orphans' Home, the Polytechnic School, the Normal

School, the new Cathedral, and a large number of other handsome

churches.

The Government have constructed a handsome official building in the

city of San Salvador, to provide thoroughly up-to-date and modern

quarters for the various Government Departments, in addition to

which it adds considerable beauty to the Capital City. This edifice

is built in the Continental style of architecture, and has been

occupied for some two years past.

There are also many attractive private residences, consisting of one

or two stories, with handsome interiors and beautiful gardens. The

usual style of building adopted is the _adobe_ house, with tiled

roof; and what lends particular attraction to the appearance of the

city is the variety of the architecture adopted for both private and

public buildings; additionally, a large number of _plazas_, parks,

and open spaces, prevent anything approaching an appearance of

monotony. The whole city is extremely well lighted by electricity,

the roads are well paved and as well maintained, while the drainage

is excellent. The material of which the sidewalks are built consists

mostly of large slabs of the basaltic rock, which is freely and

cheaply quarried from the famous Guarumál Cañon.

This elegance and good taste are displayed almost generally in the

city of Salvador regarding the arrangement of the public parks and

gardens, as well as in connection with the private residences of

the well-to-do inhabitants. The beautiful Parque Bolívar, which was

completed and opened to the public in January, 1881, and the no less

attractive Parque Barrios, which was inaugurated in the same month

of 1901, and for a second time in 1909, are cases in point.

[Illustration: PUBLIC PARK IN SAN SALVADOR, WHERE THRONGS OF

WELL-DRESSED PEOPLE ASSEMBLE IN THE EVENING TO LISTEN TO AN

EXCELLENT MILITARY BAND.]

The Parque Dueñas is centrally situated, and is a favourite

rendezvous with all classes. In the Parque Morazán is to be seen the

handsome monument erected in 1882 to the hero of the same name. The

attractive thoroughfare known as Avenida do la Independencia was

inaugurated in December, 1901, and the Central Markets in October,

1887. The new Cathedral, commenced in June, 1881, was completed and

solemnly consecrated seven years later--namely, in June of 1888.

It is a fine edifice, and contains some handsome ecclesiastical

plate and beautiful mural decorations.

The Cathedral is altogether a fine specimen of Latin-American

ecclesiastical architecture, but is distinguished from many others

of the same period by the feature of pointed arches, instead of the

usual square or rounded arches usually prevailing in this class of

buildings. It is dedicated to the patron saint of Salvador.

The prevailing religion in the Republic, as a natural consequence of

the long ascendancy of the Spanish domination, is Roman Catholic.

Previous to the Liberal revolution of 1871 no other kind of religion

was tolerated. Since then, and to-day, the greatest freedom and

toleration prevail in all religious matters; while so far has the

hand of reform stretched that the cemeteries are freed from the

control of the clergy; civil marriages are legalized without the

addition of any religious ceremony; education is non-clerical, and

all monastic institutions have been abolished. All these changes are

embodied in the Constitution promulgated on August 13, 1886, and

under which the country is governed to-day. Nevertheless, the Church

is greatly respected by the people, and the attendances at Mass are

invariably large and representative. The bishopric of San Salvador

was created in 1842.

A very handsome thoroughfare is Santa Tecla Avenue, a broad and

beautifully laid-out thoroughfare, linking up this favourite

residential place with the City of Santa Tecla, locally known as the

"City of Flowers." Already one of the most favourite suburbs, it is

growing rapidly in favour as a residential quarter with the people

of San Salvador, being situated from it only a few miles distant.

The tramway system is as yet only at the commencement of its

development, and electricity has yet to play an important part in

its equipment. There are two companies running regular services of

cars, one being the Concepción and Western Tramway Company, which

sends out its cars at intervals of ten minutes during the busiest

parts of the day, and conducts a service till fairly late at night.

Usually, however, the last cars have gone back to the garage before

theatre-goers have left their places of entertainment. Fortunately,

the fares demanded by the local Jehus are reasonable, and it is

therefore an easy matter for belated passengers to reach home.

The new theatre, which will soon adorn the city in place of that

which was burned down last year, should form a handsome addition

to the architecture of San Salvador. The Municipality very wisely

invited competition for erecting and designing the building, which

is to have a seating capacity of some 1,200. The structure is to

be equipped with the latest improvements and appliances, and will

be made as fireproof and as earthquake-proof as modern science can

effect. The cost will be between 800,000 and 1,200,000 francs,

or, say, £32,000 and £48,000. All construction materials are to

be imported free of duty, which should lessen the cost immensely.

Two prizes were offered, of 800 francs (£32) and 400 francs (£16)

respectively, for the best plans, and when the last day for sending

these, in--namely, March 15, 1911--had passed, the judges had

several handsome designs to choose from.

In the month of March last the number of competitive plans which

were sent in to the Department of Fomento for the new National

Theatre in the capital amounted to thirteen, of which three came

from Paris, one from New Orleans, one from Canada, four from San

Salvador, one from Monaco, one from Italy, and others from New York.

The whole of the designs were exhibited in a public gallery.

While one may admit freely that the hotels in Salvador are conducted

for the most part upon infinitely better lines than are those in

the neighbouring Republic of Guatemala--which, indeed, may be

pronounced, without undue harshness, as possessing about the worst

in Central America--the Salvadorean hostelries are not as yet

absolutely perfect. In this regard, however, it is only fair to

remember the extreme difficulties which the proprietors are called

upon to face. The servant problem is, perhaps, the hardest of all,

and there is hardly one, among the many hotel managers of various

nationalities with whom I discussed matters, but who confessed to me

that he was weary to death of his efforts to conduct his business

with the aid of native domestics. I have myself upon different

occasions been witness to the curiously perverse nature of some of

these servants; when, like others, I have been travelling through or

resident in the interior of the country, I have likewise observed

their spirit of robust independence.

Where the cost of living is so low, and the question of supply

and demand in regard to domestic service is so overwhelmingly in

favour of the latter, anything like efficient service is practically

impossible to find. The domestic servants in Salvador are recruited

almost entirely from among the Indians; and while these latter are

by no means lacking in intelligence, and can by kind treatment be

won to some degree of fidelity, they are naturally slow, and even

indolent, while an extreme sensitiveness and spirit of resentment

at once asserts itself should blame or abuse be offered by the

employer. Under such circumstances, or even for less provocation,

the domestic will forthwith take leave, and even forfeit the few

shillings in wages that may be due. Usually, however, the wages

question is in favour of the servant, since payment has probably

been anticipated, and the domestic is the debtor, and not the

creditor, of the master. This hold, therefore, is a somewhat feeble

one to depend upon, and in nine cases out of ten fails to apply.

There are a number of European and native families who possess

the traditional "treasure" in the person of an old and faithful

retainer; but not infrequently the history of such "treasure," when

probed, shows that the employer is over-indulgent, being fearful of

losing the much-prized services of the domestic in question, permits

all kinds of privileges, and submits to all sorts of exactions,

in order to preserve peace in the household. Perhaps it may be

good policy to do so; but I have witnessed instances of downright

tyranny upon the part of some native servants--not by any means

confined to Salvador--which, in my opinion at least, could never

have been warranted, and never should have been condoned, no matter

how valuable the services rendered may have been. The absolute

helplessness of the lady of the house may be accepted as some

excuse, but peace may be purchased at too high a price, and in the

instances which I have in mind I fancy such was the case. But, then,

I was not personally concerned in the results, and therefore my

judgment may be at fault, and even regarded as valueless.

Salvador seems to be a particularly favourite visiting-place with

itinerant theatrical companies. All the year round, practically, a

theatrical troupe of some kind may be found touring the country,

which is usually included, with Guatemala, Panama, and Costa Rica,

in the "Central American" road programme. As a general rule,

however, the companies are of a somewhat indifferent quality--poor

Italians and Spaniards, whose precarious existence often excites

commiseration from even the hard-hearted. It is pitiable to see

them upon occasions moving from State to State and from town to

town--lean, hungry, dirty, and depressed in spirits, as they well

may be; women and children, many of the latter being born on the

road, having to undergo very great physical privations and serious

personal inconveniences. The men, probably more habituated to the

roughness of life, mostly accept their hard lot with philosophy and

resignation; but it is cruelly severe upon the women and little

children. The public of Salvador are somewhat capricious in their

support of the different theatrical companies, and at times the

playhouses are practically empty, and even the cheaper portions

deserted.

It was in the month of January, 1910, that the City of San Salvador

lost its handsome Teatro Nacional through fire--a disaster which

was caused, it being charged, by incendiarism, although this has

never been proved. There is at present but one other place of

entertainment--El Teatro Moderno, belonging to the same proprietary,

and which is but a large-sized barn, capable of accommodating at

the most some 200 people. It was used originally for cinematograph

exhibitions, which, by-the-by, with all Latin-Americans would seem

to be a very popular and profitable form of entertainment. The place

is structurally fit for no other sort of performance, but is now

perforce being utilized for dramatic and musical representations.

In few cities of its size will be found a larger number of Societies

than San Salvador possesses, these associations being representative

not only of various classes of organized labour, but of literature,

music, art, religion, science, and even insurance. Among those

which have their headquarters in the Capital are--"Sociedad Unión

Nacional de Amigos," "Sociedad Estudiantil Minerva," "Sociedad

Carlos F. Dárdano," "Sociedad de Medicina Emilio Alvarez," "Academia

de Ciencias, Letras y Artes de El Salvador," "Sociedad Pedagógica

Francisco Menéndez," "Sociedad de Artesanos La Concordia," "Sociedad

de Obreros Gerado Barrios," "Sociedad La Buena Prensa," "Sociedad

de Artesanos del Salvador," "Sociedad Co-operativa El Ahorro,"

"Sociedad Nacional de Agricultura," "Logia Masónica."

The Provinces have also their respective associations, many

possessing a long and influential subscription list; among the most

prominent may be mentioned: "Sociedad de Obreros" and "Sociedad

literaria José Cecilio del Valle," both having their headquarters

in Santa Ana; "Sociedad de Obreros El Porvenir," in Santa Tecla;

"Sociedad de Obreros Rafael Campo," at Sonsonate; "Club Unionista,"

at Ahuachapán; "Sociedad de Obreros" and "Logia Masónica," at

Cojutepeque; "Sociedad de Obreros," at Sensuntapeque; and "Sociedad

La Protección," at Zacatecoluca.

Tho principal educational establishments of the Republic are

located in the Capital, and comprise the National University, of

which Dr. Hermógenes Alvarado is the Deacon and Dr. Adrián García is

the Secretary; the National Institute, of which Dr. Darío González

is the Director; the National Library, of which Don Francisco

Gavidia is the Director; and the Municipal Library, of which Dr.

Don José Dols Corpeño is the Director. There are in addition the

Astronomical and Meteorological Observatory, directed by Dr.

Santiago I. Barberena, and the Museum and Botanical Gardens, both

under the direction of Dr. David J. Guzmán.

Among the many excellent charitable institutions of which the

Capital is possessed are the Orphans' Asylum, directed by Don

Francisco Escobar; the Sara Asylum, directed by Dr. Alfonso

Quiñónez; the Orphans' Hospital, which is under the same control as

the Asylum of that name; and the well-known Hospital Rosales, which

is controlled by a number of the most eminent medical men in the

Republic. It is an admirably-managed institution, and has effected a

great deal of sound charity since its inauguration some years ago.

A great amount of unobtrusive but sound charity and benevolence

are practised in Salvador. The people as a whole are, perhaps,

not very wealthy in the accepted sense of the word, and there are

probably few great family fortunes to be found there; while I was

never fortunate enough to come across a full-blown millionaire--at

all events, considered in sterling money. On the other hand, there

are many very well-to-do families, many handsome privately-owned

properties, and several highly-prosperous businesses, especially

among the coffee and sugar planters. No doubt in the halcyon days

of the indigo industry Salvador could boast of many very opulent

residents; but with the invention of the aniline dyes much of

this indigo wealth passed away. The wide diffusion of charity and

benevolence is, therefore, all the more noteworthy and all the more

commendable.

Most of the charitable institutions are not alone the creation,

but remain the special care, of the Government, and successive

Presidents have very properly devoted both their personal attention

and the country's funds to the maintenance of these institutions.

The charge of these charities is in the hands of the Minister of

Education, Public Works and Benevolence. I visited several of the

hospitals during my stay in the country, and I was pleasurably

impressed with their generally cheerful and always cleanly

appearance.

The foremost institution of this kind is the magnificent building

presented, with its entire equipment, to the nation by the late Don

José Rosáles, a distinguished and very wealthy Salvadorean, who not

only sustained the hospital during his lifetime, but bequeathed to

its funds no less than $4,000,000. The institution bears the name of

its generous founder, and it is admirably conducted in every way.

A large staff of competent physicians and a full body of male and

female nurses are always maintained, and as a rule the hospital is

very well patronized, the kindness and the skill of the authorities

having obtained a wide notoriety. The Rosáles is, however, but one

of several similar institutions, the Government having of late

years added similar necessary buildings to the towns of Santa Ana,

Sonsonate, Ahuachapán, Santa Tecla, Zacatecoluca, San Vicente, San

Miguel, Alegria, Chalatenango and La Unión. It is difficult to speak

too highly of the thoroughly efficient manner in which most of

these establishments are maintained; and among the many patients

whom I saw, and with whom I conversed, I met with not one who had

anything but praise and gratitude to express for the benefits which

had been received.

As an evidence of the use to which these institutions are put, I am

able to say that during the year of 1892 some 3,198 patients were

treated, of whom 2,798 were discharged completely cured, 203 died,

and the rest remained under treatment. The total amount expended in

this year was a little over $81,000. Including all of the hospitals

established throughout the country, there are annually admitted and

treated about 8,000 patients, of whom an average of 8 per cent. die.

This cannot be considered a high rate of mortality, considering the

climate and the many tropical diseases which have to be treated.

In the vicinity of San Salvador, upon a beautifully-situated

and very healthful spot, has been established a tuberculosis

Sanatorium. Here the open-air treatment is employed in conformity

with the latest recognized therapeutic and hygienic methods for

the alleviation and cure of consumption, which, as in Mexico, is

unfortunately a common complaint. The expenses of this Sanatorium

are met by appropriations by the Federal and Municipal authorities;

by contributions from industrial companies, which are usually

very open-handed in such matters; and by voluntary donations from

benevolent people and institutions. A library is maintained for

the use of the patients, and all possible measures are employed,

to mitigate the sad condition of resident invalids. So far,

I understand, the Sanatorium is free from debt, and it is so

excellently managed an institution, and is productive of so much

real good, that it is sincerely to be hoped that it may remain so.

How admirable have been the attempts made, and how successful the

results achieved, to overcome the ravages of tuberculosis, are

best shown by the following comparative statistics, which give the

figures for Spanish-American towns:

Mortality per

American Towns. 10,000 Inhabitants.

Lima (Peru) 62·1

Carácas (Venezuela) 60·0

Rio de Janeiro (Brazil) 38·0

Santiago (Chile) 38·0

Havana (Cuba) 32·7

Montevideo (Uruguay) 16·0

Buenos Aires (Argentina) 14·2

Mexico City (Mexico) 14·0

San Salvador (Salvador) 13·7

That Salvador should have the smallest number of deaths among

all these Republics is a triumph for the medical faculty and for

the Government, which have conjointly done so much towards the

improvement of conditions.

Many of the sanitary and clinical institutions in the Republic have

medical schools or classes attached, and such are naturally much

better equipped with special departments for the eye, ear, nose,

throat and skin diseases. Fever hospitals are carefully segregated,

and are most carefully controlled, with the idea of avoiding any

epidemic breaking out. Many of the attendant physicians have studied

in Europe and the United States.

[Illustration: NEW NATIONAL PALACE AT SAN SALVADOR.]

[Illustration: THEATRE AT SANTA ANA, DEPARTMENT OF SANTA ANA.]

The Superior Council of Health, of which Don Tomás G. Palomo is

President, has rendered important services during the last two

years. The Government is continually encouraging authorities to

persevere with their sanitary measures and to compel the public

to follow the instructions periodically issued by the Superior

Council, and to fulfil the rules laid down by the Code of Laws

relating to health. In his report for the year 1907, the President

of the Council has said: "In proportion as the sphere of action of

the Council widens, so has its beneficial influence been remarked,

especially in some places of the Republic, where formerly only

the most rudimentary laws of hygiene were known. Already a large

majority of the municipal authorities are showing some aptitude in

ameliorating the sanitary conditions of their respective localities,

and if things continue thus we shall soon arrive at the complete

banishment of endemic maladies from certain districts of the

Republic."

In Salvador a pernicious kind of malaria is the predominating

disease, and shows itself in different phases and manifestations.

The Council has recommended several measures to minimize its

effects; but the result achieved does not altogether correspond to

the efforts of the authorities, because, besides the heavy expenses

of the sanitation works in many parts of the country, the majority

of the people are opposed to all hygienic measures, and through

poverty are condemned to live in small dwellings, which are badly

ventilated and damp, and consequently unhealthy.

In the Capital, at the beginning of the year 1907, and at the time

of the mobilization of the Army, several cases of cerebro-spinal

meningitis presented themselves. Those soldiers who were afflicted

were isolated during the march, first in a ward of the Rosalés

Hospital, and afterwards in the Military Sanatorium. This measure

and others that the Council promptly ordered prevented any

development of the epidemic. In the same manner four cases of

diphtheria presented themselves, and altogether, through different

diseases, 1,598 deaths took place in San Salvador in that year. In

the same period it recorded 2,147 births, giving as a net result an

increase in population of 549 inhabitants.

Cerebro-spinal meningitis also showed itself in Santa Ana and at

San Pedro Nonualco, but the malady did not assume the character of

a real epidemic. During the year 1908 a few cases of meningitis of

a marked epidemic character were observed, but the efforts of the

Council secured the mastery over the disease. Unfortunately, at the

end of the year 1909 smallpox broke out in the west of the Republic,

principally in the Department of Santa Ana.

The Council of Health immediately sent out the Director-General of

Vaccination to the above-named Department with the necessary means

to combat the smallpox. The disease spread, however, and continued

to show itself in different parts of the country, so that the

Council was obliged to arrange for the establishment of _lazarettos_

in Santa Ana, Candelaria, and Santiago de la Frontera, and also to

nominate various travelling vaccinators for each of the Departments,

at the same time insisting upon sanitary cordons, and, in fact,

taking all the measures that the imminent peril demanded. There have

been places quite immune, and in the Capital not more than five

cases appeared, all of which were immediately isolated.

The Supreme Council of the Red Cross has upon all occasions

collaborated in this campaign against disease, effective measures

being undertaken by the authorities against the terrible malady, and

greatly facilitating the furnishing of the necessary funds.

The General Direction of Vaccination has its seat in the Capital,

and is directed by Dr. Rodolfo B. González. In connection with the

Rosáles Hospital an Institution of Vaccination has been established,

which is under the direction of Dr. Gustavo Barón. In normal times

as many as a thousand tubes of vaccine are prepared monthly. The

Institute of Vaccination in San Salvador, I may mention, is the

first that has been established in Central America.

The Council, notwithstanding the fact that it receives a large

quantity of calf lymph, imports every fortnight further supplies of

lymph from France and Switzerland, as a provision against the home

supply becoming exhausted through any unforeseen circumstance. In

the year 1907 there were vaccinated in the Capital alone 1,597 men

and 973 women, while in the Departments there were 4,667 men and

4,295 women, or a total of 11,532 vaccinated in this one year.

If to these numbers are added 1,000 vaccinated by the Travelling

Vaccinator of the Department of La Libertad, a total of 12,532 was

reached--a figure which will be increased to at least 18,000 if is

taken into account the fact that in many of the outlying districts

the number of inoculations which were made by special vaccinators

have not been accounted for.

In the year 1908 the number of cases was doubled, so it appears

that in all the Republic more than 40,000 persons were vaccinated

in one year. In the first months of 1910, in which vaccination was

enforced with some severity, even in the most remote hamlets, the

majority of the inhabitants were vaccinated and revaccinated. In

the ports, into which epidemic diseases are more easily introduced

by foreign vessels arriving from different infected ports, the

Council has under its control several competent medical officers,

who examine with the most scrupulous exactness all the steamers, and

even the small boats, which arrive. By this means, up till now the

much-dreaded yellow fever and bubonic plague, which have attacked

many ports of South America, have not reached Salvador.

Apart from the Hospitals, there are several Asylums for the

Insane, the Blind and Orphans of both sexes. The inmates receive

a thoroughly sound normal or primary education, being taught also

carpentry, shoemaking, needlework, and many other useful occupations

and trades. Those who desire to study music or electric telegraphy

as a profession are permitted, and even encouraged, to do so. These

institutions in some cases are under the management of Sisters of

Charity, and very well they seem to carry out their merciful duties.

The Government supports also an Asylum for the Aged Poor, and a

similar institution for orphans, in addition to those which already

exist.

One of the most prominent members of the Salvadorean medical

profession is Dr. Federico Yúdice, who enjoys an unusually large

surgical practice. Dr. Yúdice has studied in Germany, and holds

the highest diplomas of the German Faculty of Medicine, as well

as in the United States, from which country he also received the

most coveted diplomas in the profession. His consulting-rooms

are frequently well filled, and his surgery and operating-room

are replete with the latest improved surgical apparatus and

equipment--in some cases more replete in the possession of such

scientific inventions than some of the hospitals of Europe. Although

quite a young man, Dr. Yúdice is considered one of the leading

physicians of San Salvador, and undoubtedly he has an exceptionally

brilliant career before him.

Due to the initiative of Dr. Manuel Enrique Araujo, the President,

an important and representative Congress of Medical Scientists

will assemble in San Salvador in November of this year. Dr. Tomás

G. Palomo will be the President of the Congress, Dr. Benjamin

Orozco the Vice-President. Among others who will take part in

the deliberations are--Dr. José Llerena, Jerónimo Puente, J. Max

Olano, Estanislao Van Severen, Enrique Gonzalez S., an eminent

surgeon-dentist, and Gustavo S. Barón, who will act as treasurer.

Dr. Pedro A. Villacorta, Dr. Miguel Peralta L., and Dr. Rafael V.

Castro, will act as joint secretaries.

The ready hospitality which is extended to the stranger sojourning

for no matter how short a while in Salvador renders existence there

exceptionally agreeable. While, like most Latin-Americans, far from

being effusive or indiscriminate in either their friendship or their

offers of social entertainment, the Salvadoreans are always pleased

to show courtesy and hospitality to those who are recommended or

presented to them, and to these fortunate individuals nothing is

denied in the way of attention and consideration. San Salvador

is especially kind to its foreign visitors, and to all who bear

introductions, or who make friends upon their own account, the doors

of the Casino Salvadoreño are readily open, this being a club which

is well provided with most of the current literature, some of which

is in English, and possesses many pleasant reading and writing

rooms, as well as the usual complement of French billiard-tables.

It is an orderly and well-managed establishment, and most of the

better-class Salvadoreans belong to it. A good, although small,

library is attached, and this contains some valuable collections of

statistical volumes and several works of reference.

San Salvador has been peculiarly unfortunate in regard to the number

of serious conflagrations which have at various times afflicted

that city, and within the last ten or eleven years no fewer than

five such disasters have overtaken it. In the month of November,

1889, the Palacio Nacional was completely destroyed by fire, and,

unfortunately, many valuable archives, dating back into the early

times of the Spaniards, when Salvador was still a colony, as well as

a large number of documents relating to the Federation, were lost.

In 1900 a second fire destroyed a large area in the city, wherein

were situated many of the principal mercantile houses. In September,

1901, a third visitation of this kind destroyed the handsome

building of La Mansión de la Presidencia, as well as the barracks

of La Guardia de Honor. In 1903 fire destroyed the entire building

of the Casino Salvadoreño; and in March, 1908, the handsome Zapote

Barracks were seriously burned; while, as recorded elsewhere, in

1910 the Teatro Nacional, and nearly the whole block of buildings of

which it formed part, was entirely gutted.

[Illustration: CATHEDRAL OF SONSONATE, DEPARTMENT OF SONSONATE.]

Like most of the Latin-American cities, San Salvador contains many

very handsome and appropriate monuments erected to the memory of

its brave sons and distinguished citizens. Among these are the

tasteful statues dedicated to the memory of Dr. Emilio Alvarez, a

Colombian physician who rendered eminent services to his adopted

country; another forms a tribute to General Gerardo Barrios, one of

Salvador's greatest soldiers and patriots, and a third, a very

fine work, is an equestrian statue of General Morazán, in the park

which bears his name. The monument of General Barrios is also an

equestrian statue, the General being shown seated upon a magnificent

granite column of heroic proportions.

CHAPTER XX

Department of Chalatenango--Rich agricultural territories--Annual

fair--Generally prosperous conditions--Department of

Cuscatlán--City of Cojutepeque--Industries--Cigar factories--

Volcanoes--Lake of Cojutepeque--Department of Cabañas--Scenic

features--Feast of Santa Barbara--Department of San Vicente--

Public buildings and roads.

DEPARTMENT OF CHALATENANGO.

_City._--Chalatenango (1).

_Towns._--Tejutla, San Ignacio, San Francisco, Morazán, San Rafael,

and Citalá (6).

Fully two-thirds of this portion of the country consist of mountain

ranges, with long timber-covered spurs, very beautiful to the eye,

running from their bases in every direction. The Department is

bounded on the north by the Republic of Honduras; on the east by the

same Republic and the Department of Cabañas; on the south by the

Departments of Cabañas, Cuscatlán, San Salvador, and La Libertad;

and on the west by Santa Ana. The rich agricultural valley of the

Lempa runs partly through this section, and many of the tributaries

of that river water its ground. Immense tracts of agricultural

territory are seen, upon which are grown successive crops of indigo,

corn, rice, wheat, and beans. The several lofty chimneys which are

observed to be dotting the country for miles around point to the

active manufacturing that goes on. These establishments comprise

distilleries, potteries, candle, cheese, and turpentine factories;

while a large commerce is also done by treating a kind of wax

obtained from boiling the fruit of a certain shrub which grows

wild in this country and in great abundance. Here, as in most of

the parts of Salvador, general prosperity prevails; one encounters

hardly any very poor persons, either in the streets or begging upon

the roadsides.

The chief city of this Department bears the same name, and it lies

to the south-east of the lofty mountains of La Peña and on the

rivers Tamulasca and Colco. The elevation above sea-level is about

1,660 feet, while the distance from the Capital is a little over

forty-five miles north-east. I should say that Chalatenango is about

the oldest native town in Salvador, and only in 1791 did foreigners

and white natives commence to frequent it to any extent--these,

it would seem, being sent there by the then Spanish Governor as a

sort of punishment or exile. It would certainly be no punishment

to abide there nowadays for a short while, since the surrounding

country is remarkably beautiful, the people are very friendly and

hospitable, and living there is absurdly cheap, judged from European

standards. The population scarcely exceeds 6,000, and the whole of

the Department probably boasts of no more than 54,000 or 55,000

inhabitants.

It is at Chalatenango that is held annually on June 24, St. John

the Baptist's Day, the most important and most popular Fair of the

year. Upon this occasion the true native life of Salvadoreans, the

quaint and picturesque costumes, and many articles of barter which

never see the light at any other time, may be met with. Anyone

travelling in Salvador at this period may be recommended to visit

Chalatenango, if only to witness this annual gathering, which is

attended by people of every class from all parts of the Republic.

A more orderly or a happier crowd it would be difficult to meet

with, and, what is more to the point, they form a particularly

clean-looking crowd. The fact is that St. John the Baptist's Day

is the one day upon which every devout Catholic makes a point of

having a bath--if at no other period of the year--and this may

possibly have something to do with it. If it were of Mexico that I

was writing instead of Salvador, I should say that this circumstance

might possibly have _everything_ to do with it.

DEPARTMENT OF CUSCATLÁN.

_Cities._--Cojutepeque, Suchitoto (2).

_Towns._--San Pedro Perulapán, Tenancingo, San Rafael, and Guyabal

(4).

At one time this Department was the largest, or one of the largest,

in Salvador; but successive rearrangements of the area of the

Department for political purposes have robbed it of much of its

original territory. It was established as a separate entity in May,

1855, before which it was made up of a great deal of land which now

belongs to Chalatenango. Again, in 1875 it was forced to contribute

a portion of its diminished possessions in order to form the new

Department of Cabañas. However, Cuscatlán did not part with either

of its two pet volcanoes--Cojutepeque and Guazapa--nor was it ever

asked to do so.

Bordering this section are the Departments of Cabañas and

Chalatenango on the north, Cabañas and San Vicente on the east, San

Vicente and La Paz on the south, and San Salvador on the west. Most

of its territory is richly productive, agriculture being carried

on by practically the whole population in some form or other, and

fine crops of coffee, sugar, indigo, rice, tobacco, cereals, and

such products as starch and cheese, come out of Cuscatlán, and find

their diverse ways about the country. A great gathering is held

annually in the chief city, Cojutepeque, on St. John's Day (_not_

the Baptist), August 29, while the other city, Suchitoto, has its

own particular gala-day on the Feast of the Conception, December

8, a good deal of friendly rivalry existing between the merchants

and traders of each town. Buyers and manufacturers come to these

meetings from all over the Republic, and very extensive are the

transactions carried out in cattle, cheese, indigo, native products,

and many kinds of foreign merchandise.

Cojutepeque, which is connected by road to Ilobasco and

Sensuntepeque, is an extremely romantic-looking, and as

picturesquely-situated, city, with a population of between 8,000

and 9,000 inhabitants. It lies upon the northern slope of the

volcano of the same name, not very far from the summit. Although

the situation is from a climatic point of view very agreeable, it

somewhat interferes with the success of the water-supply to the

town. The surrounding country is agricultural, and the markets bear

sufficient testimony to the great variety and high-class character

of the produce which is raised. Cigar-making is one of the most

important trades carried on in the town, and the excellent quality

and the delightful aroma of Cojutepeque cigars are known and

appreciated all through Central America. One of the factories which

I visited was managed and owned entirely by a lady and her family,

all of good birth and sound education. Their factory was a model of

cleanliness and orderliness, and many of the employés had been with

the proprietors for a great number of years.

An exceedingly comfortable and well-maintained hotel at Cojutepeque

is that known as La América, kept by Señor Diaz, and whereat the

guests are made to feel completely "at home." Señor Diaz is one

of the good old-fashioned "Boniface" type of landlord, for, in

conjunction with his charming wife and daughter and his young son,

Cayetano, he personally looks after each individual who patronizes

his establishment, consulting each taste and idiosyncrasy, and

carefully pandering thereto. The rooms in the Hotel América are

exceptionally large and airy, while all meals are served to the

guests in a delightful open _patio_, completely surrounded by

masses of tropical bloom--great clustering rose-bushes, clematis,

and honeysuckle, towering palms and sweet-scented orange-blossom--a

veritable fairyland of colour and perfume.

The town is not only well built, but is conveniently arranged in

spite of the decided irregularity of the streets, caused by the

slope of the volcano upon which they are built. On three different

occasions Cojutepeque has been made the Capital of the Republic, and

upon one occasion--viz., November 6, 1857--it was very seriously

damaged by earthquake. The three active volcanoes of San Salvador,

San Jacinto, and Cojutepeque, have all contributed in their time to

alarming and damaging the city. The last-named volcano is 3,351 feet

in height, and is located in latitude 13° 42' 22" N., and longitude

88° 56' 26" W.

Lake Cojutepeque ranks second in importance as to size and scenic

beauty to Lake Ilopango; it lies north-east of the volcano of Santa

Ana, and is of a roughly elliptical shape, about four miles long and

three miles wide, the major axis having a direction about north-east

and south-west. This lake has no visible outlet, and its waters,

although somewhat impregnated with salts, can be used for drinking

without any danger. To every outward appearance the lake gives

the impression that it had once been the crater of the attendant

volcano, lying as it does upon its northern slope. This is more

apparent from a distant view of the entire mass of the Santa Ana

volcano, such as can be obtained from the summit of the neighbouring

volcano, San Salvador. The present peak of Santa Ana from this

position seems to have been built up from the rim of the ancient

crater, which is now occupied by the lake.

General Juan Amaya, Governor of the State of Cuscatlán, has worked

very zealously, and with conspicuous success, to make it one of

the most progressive of the various political Departments of the

Republic. Under his direction, and with the active support of

General Figueroa while President, new and handsome roadways have

been made, pure water and free public baths have been introduced;

the whole Department now presents the appearance of being under a

highly intelligent and enterprising Government. General Juan Amaya

was elected last May (1911), under the authority of Article 68 of

the Constitution, Third Designate to succeed to the Presidency in

case of a vacancy occurring during the present term (_see_ p. 38).

DEPARTMENT OF CABAÑAS.

_Cities._--Sensuntepeque, Ilobasco (2).

_Towns._--Victoria, Dolores, San Isidro, Jutiapa, Tejutepeque (5).

This Department is principally of interest on account of the gold

(see Chapter on Mining) which has been found, as well as the

prosperous industry in indigo which is carried on there. It is

bounded on the north and north-east by the Republic of Honduras,

on the east by the Department of San Miguel, on the south by the

Departments of San Vicente and Cuscatlán, and on the west by the

last named only. The greater portion of the territory consists of

mountains, which take the form of lofty ranges and chains, giving

a wild and picturesque character to the country, and in parts

even a somewhat forlorn appearance. Particularly desolate are the

eastern and northern parts of the Department, which, however, can

boast in other directions of many beautiful and fertile valleys,

which produce in abundance such crops as indigo, rice, corn, and

several other kinds of grain. In regard to manufactures, there are

earthenware, lime, cheese, and other factories, as well as one or

two distilleries. A very active commerce is carried on; and here, as

elsewhere in the Republic, the greatest day out of the twelve months

is the one kept for the annual Fair, whereat one meets a veritable

"gathering of the clans," the number of Indians who attend, for

instance, lending great interest to the meeting. The rendezvous is

at Sensuntepeque, and the date selected is the day devoted to Santa

Barbara--namely, December 4. The Saint, as may be remembered, was a

Christian Martyr of the third century, and the patron of artillery.

She was beheaded by her father, who is said to have been struck

dead by lightning immediately after the act, which was but poetic

justice. Why the misfortunes of this young lady, however, should

particularly appeal to the good people of Sensuntepeque I could not

find out. But she always has been and remains their patron Saint.

Sensuntepeque is joined up with Cojutepeque by a well-constructed

cart-road, which likewise serves Ilobasco. Another equally good

road runs from Sensuntepeque to Apastepeque, in the Department

of San Vicente; and these thoroughfares are kept in a good state

of maintenance, especially in preparation for the heavy rainy

season, when otherwise they would become impassable, and internal

communication would be practically at a standstill.

The city of Sensuntepeque is situated, as are so many other

Salvadorean towns, on a mountain slope, in this case the location

being on the southern declivity of the mountain Pelón, and at

an elevation of some 2,310 feet above the level of the sea. It

is located about fifty-seven miles distant north-east from the

Capital. A decidedly picturesque little place it is, but one which

contains, all the same, over 10,000 inhabitants, the majority of

whom are concerned in the cultivation or treatment of indigo. The

city has many handsome edifices--such, for instance, as the fine

Town Hall, several Government school buildings, a prison (which, is

a model institution of its kind), and several handsome churches.

Additionally there are a very attractive _parque_, beautifully

laid out with plants and green grass-plots; a capital public

bathing-place; and a number of attractive private residences,

solidly built, and faced with either stucco or tiles.

Very few foreigners seem to find their way to this place, which

is to be regretted; for not alone would they be made to feel very

welcome, the people being particularly friendly and hospitably

inclined, but the climate has a most exhilarating effect, and for

the greater portion of the year it is nothing less than delightful.

Very little poverty seems to exist here, and, from what I heard

and saw, it seems that practically every member of a family in

Sensuntepeque is employed regularly and remuneratively in some kind

of manner.

DEPARTMENT OF SAN VICENTE.

It would be no exaggeration to describe this Department as

scenically the most beautiful in the Republic of Salvador. It

affords almost every style of scenery--high mountains, towering

volcanoes, delightful valleys, and a perfectly astounding collection

of hot springs, or _infiernillos_. The Department is bounded on the

north by the Department of Cabañas, on the east by the Departments

of San Miguel and Usulután, on the south by the Pacific Ocean, and

on the west by the Departments of La Paz and Cuscatlán. One of the

highest mountains--needless to say it is a volcano--is situated

here, and bears the name of the Saint who founded the Society of

the Lazarists and the Sisterhood of Charity. This most imposing

mountain has a double cone, which towers very gracefully above the

numerous attendant hills. It was last known to erupt in 1643, but it

looks capable of a repetition of the performance in all its grandeur

at any time. In height it stands 7,131 feet, and its approximate

position is given at 13° 35' 24" N. latitude, and 88° 50' 31" W.

longitude.

[Illustration: PUBLIC PARK AT COJUTEPEQUE, DEPARTMENT OF CUSCATLÁN.]

[Illustration: BARRACKS AT COJUTEPEQUE, DEPARTMENT OF CUSCATLÁN.]

I first caught a glimpse of the majestic mountain while staying at

Cojutepeque, but it was then a long way distant. There are two other

volcanoes, Chichontepec and Siguatepeque--the former the highest

mountain in the Republic--but they are pronounced to be extinct.

The summit of this monster is 8,661 feet above the level of the

sea, and it is notable for the number of active geysers which exist

on the northern slope, and which continually send out volumes of

steam accompanied by terrifying but apparently harmless terrestrial

rumblings, which can be distinctly heard as far away as three or

four miles. But the mountain is quite unoffending, I understand, the

said geysers proving the safety-valves for its occasional internal

disturbances.

San Vicente was created a Department in 1836, and its territory

embraces a portion of what formerly formed one of the "territorial

divisions" of the country existing under Spanish rule, while

the eastern portion was originally part of Cabañas. The amount

of commerce which is carried on is considerable, and during the

past few years has made decided strides in actual volume. Besides

supplying a large amount of agricultural produce, such as indigo,

coffee, sugar, tobacco, timber, cereals, and all kinds of fruits,

there are several manufactories which turn out silk shawls, shoes,

hats, starch, salt, and cigars, as well as sundry distilleries.

The annual Fair is held here on All Saints' Day--namely, November

1--and the city is then very gay from morning to night. Upon

this occasion the transactions carried out between the permanent

residents and the visitors run into high figures, quantities of

local produce and merchandise being bought and sold, the articles

of trade consisting mainly of indigo, cheese, cattle, grain, and the

retailing of certain foreign goods.

The principal city, San Vicente, is a very picturesque and

romantic-looking town, one of the oldest, if not quite the most

ancient, in this part of the country, dating as a city as far

back as 1658, while it was founded as a town in 1634. To-day,

however, the streets have been straightened-out and well paved,

while a number of very pleasant suburbs, each with its gardens and

avenues of trees, lend additional attractiveness as one approaches

the place from the main-road. There are a number of excellent

buildings already erected, and several others of altogether imposing

dimensions and structural pretensions were going up when I visited

the town.

It has long been the desire of the Government to unite San Vicente

with San Salvador by railroad, and the line would run via San

Miguel, the second city in the Republic, and La Unión, its finest

seaport, thus securing also an all-rail route between Acajutla,

the most important western port, and La Unión, on the extreme east

of the Gulf of Fonseca. The survey was made many years ago, and

the line has been proved to be a practicable one, although the

work would no doubt be heavy and costly, since much grading, heavy

protective masonry, and many bridges, would have to be undertaken.

The distance would be about 67·9 kilometres (42·2 miles) between

San Salvador and San Vicente by this line of railway, and the cost

of the line has been estimated at not less than $2,157,433 (say

£431,486), or an average of $51,124 (=£10,225) per mile. The maximum

grade in this location would be 2·8 per cent., and the sharpest

curves 41 degrees (radius 410·3 feet or 125·1 millimetres).

CHAPTER XXI

Department of La Libertad--Physical characteristics--Balsam

Coast--Santa Tecla--Department of Sonsonate--Life and

hotels--Department of Ahuachapán--City of Ahuachapán--Public

buildings and baths--Projected railway extension--Department of

Santa Ana--Chief city--Generally prosperous conditions.

DEPARTMENT OF LA LIBERTAD.

_Cities._--Santa Tecla, Opico (2).

_Towns._---La Libertad, Teotepeque, Quezaltepeque (3).

This Department, ranks second in importance to San Salvador,

although its population is less than that of either the Departments,

of Santa Ana, of Cuscatlán, or of San Miguel. It is joined by

excellently-made cart-roads to both the Capital and to San Vicente.

As far back as 1896, Mr. J. Imbrie Miller, an American engineer,

formerly a member of the Intercontinental Railway Commission, was

engaged in surveying a light line of railway from La Libertad

to Santa Tecla. Some years later another American, Lieutenant

Kennon, proceeded there to take observations for connecting the

triangulation with the astronomical monument established there by

the United States Hydrographic Office.

The boundaries of this Department are as follows: On the north, the

Department of Chalatenango; on the east, San Salvador and La Paz;

on the south, the Pacific Ocean; on the west, the Departments of

Sonsonate and Santa Ana. The physical features of this part of the

Republic are remarkable. The central portion of the Department is

very mountainous, being crossed from east to west by the coastal

range of mountains and the system of the volcano of Quezaltepeque.

The surface of the ground is considerably broken up by a great

number of well-defined spurs, which extend from the mountain range

to the very borders of the ocean itself. To the west of the volcano

is situated an immense basin known as Sapotitau. The northern

portion is traversed by lofty ridges between which are found a

number of beautifully fertile plains.

Fortunately for the good people of La Libertad, the giant volcano

Quezaltepeque has long ceased to trouble them, and, indeed, it

is said to be extinct; it is, however, never safe to speak too

confidently upon this matter, since Nature has a rude manner of

disillusioning us at times. This particular volcano, it may be said,

has been quiescent so long that for many years it has been regarded

as quite harmless. It stands nearly 7,400 feet high above sea-level,

the upper part forming a cone occupied by a crater which is between

seven and eight miles in circumference, and 1,100 feet deep; at the

bottom lies a small lake.

It is in this Department that is located the famous Balsam Coast,

and as I speak very fully elsewhere (see Chapter XVII.) of the

valuable tree which grows there, with its usefulness to the country

as a means of substantial revenue, it is unnecessary to do more than

mention that the valleys where the trees are found are extremely

fertile; and besides yielding the particular spice in question,

they produce rich harvests of coffee, sugar, indigo, corn, rice,

and timber. Here are to be found additionally several successful

sugar refineries and distilleries, as well as some sawmills and many

prosperous coffee estates with their rather antiquated machinery

installations. In fact, the commerce of La Libertad is of prime

importance, and is increasing in volume and value year by year.

The capital of the Department is Santa Tecla (New San Salvador), a

town which is most agreeably situated at the foot of the volcano of

San Salvador, where it nestles snugly, absolutely indifferent to

the violent reputation of its gigantic guardian. The height above

sea-level of this charming little place is 2,643 feet, and it is

only ten miles distant from the Capital City. It really owes its

existence to the misfortunes which overtook the former some half a

century ago, and to-day it is one of the most favourite places of

residence in the Republic. Wide and handsome streets and many fine

residences are the principal features of Santa Tecla, which likewise

boasts of a large and well-laid-out _parque_, several handsome

drives, and its own pleasant little suburbs. Notable among its

buildings are the Hospital, the Town Hall, the Government Offices,

the Hospicio Guirola, built at his own expense by the late Don Angel

Guirola, one of Salvador's most esteemed and wealthiest citizens,

and two fine churches. The population amounts to between 11,000 and

11,500, and easy connection is made with San Salvador by regular

trains, which have now taken the place of an old horse-railroad. The

street lighting in the town of Santa Tecla is carried out by private

enterprise, and it is very well done. In the month of March, 1907,

an agreement was entered into between the Government and La Compañia

de Alumbrado Eléctrico, of San Salvador, for the installation

in the city of Nueva San Salvador for the street lighting by

thirty-seven arc lamps of 1,200 candle-power and ninety-three

incandescent lamps of 16 candle-power. This agreement is for ten

years, and so far it has afforded general satisfaction.

THE DEPARTMENT OF SONSONATE.

_Cities._--Sonsonate, Izalco (2).

_Towns._--Nahuizalco, El Progreso, Armenia (3).

This Department gains importance from two circumstances: Firstly,

it contains the principal port of the Republic--Acajutla--of which

a full description will be found under Chapter XVI., "Ports and

Harbours"; and, secondly, because its main city, bearing the same

name, has already attained great commercial significance, and is

rapidly rivalling the Capital itself in the volume of its trade.

The boundaries of the Department are as follows: On the north, by

the Department of Santa Ana; on the east, by La Libertad; on the

south, by the Pacific Ocean; and on the west, by the Department of

Ahuachapán. The northern portion of the ground surface is a mass

of mountains, of many varied heights and shapes; on the coast,

however, it is very level for a certain distance, from which point

it rises gradually in a series of gentle slopes and rolling hills,

until these lose themselves in the spurs of the surrounding mountain

ranges. It is a truly enchanting country, as fair and as fertile as

the eye could wish to dwell upon; and away from the seacoast, where

it is marshy and damp, the climate is found to be delightful for the

greater part of the year.

Here also some stretches of the famous Balsam Coast are to be met

with, the trees being more numerous and even higher, than those in

the La Libertad Department.

Acajutla must always serve to bring prosperity to Sonsonate, which,

as a department, was created in 1855. Its principal agricultural

productions comprise coffee, cocoanuts, sugar, cacao, balsam,

tobacco, cereals of almost all kinds, fruits of endless variety, and

an immense number of different cabinet woods and fibres. There are

a considerable number of factories erected in this same Department,

employing many hundreds of hands, and turning out refined sugar,

cigars, cotton, cloth, pottery, mats, baskets, distilled liqueurs,

and salt. The principal city, Sonsonate, is situated some fifty

miles from San Salvador, and stands picturesquely upon the banks of

the River Sensunapán. Comparatively speaking, this is but a small

stream; nevertheless, from a scenic point of view, it is decidedly

worthy of mention. It is crossed by a handsome bridge, and its banks

are often used as a pleasant promenade and bathing-place by the

inhabitants of this agreeable town.

At Sonsonate, which, with Santa Ana, is one of the several towns

in Salvador on the route of the itinerant theatrical companies,

there is a small wooden-built room, which forms part of the Hotel

Blanco y Negro, kept by a very courteous and obliging Spaniard,

one Señor Arturo de Soto, who, with the profits derived from the

_cantina_ adjoining, finds in this undertaking the investment of

his capital to be fairly profitable. The stage of the unambitious

little playhouse is exactly 18 feet wide by 9 feet deep, so that the

precise limit of the mounting of dramatic representations presented

thereon may be fairly accurately gauged.

The climate of Sonsonate is decidedly warm for the greater part

of the year, and not at all unpleasant in the dry season, except

for the fearful wind-storms to which it is at times subjected. Upon

these occasions the whole town is temporarily hidden in the clouds

of gritty dust, which, moreover, penetrate every crack and crevice

of the tightly-closed house shutters, cover the merchants' goods

exposed for sale in the shops with a thick layer of dirt, and render

life generally, for the time being, something of a burden. So strong

is the wind that it whirls around in a sort of wild maëlstrom every

stray piece of paper, stick, or any loose rubbish which it can

gather, and then deposits them impartially in the _patios_ and upon

the roofs of the houses, at the same time making complete havoc of

gardens and parks.

The market at Sonsonate, an important weekly function, is held on

Sundays. The building, completely roofed over, as are all similar

constructions in Latin-America, is crowded to excess with sellers,

the numbers of buyers, however, being considerably fewer. Every kind

of article is exposed for sale, from stuffed and roasted monkeys

to the cheapest kind of Manchester cotton goods and cheaper German

imitations. The stalls are separated into sections, and practically

all of them are presided over by women. It cannot be said that the

majority of the edibles look very tempting from a European point of

view, being for the most part covered with grease or floating in a

thick and sticky compound of fat of a bilious-yellow colour. To the

local taste these articles of diet no doubt appeal strongly, since a

brisk trade is a carried on in them. Cheap and tawdry fancy goods,

highly-coloured and cheaply-framed religious pictures, toys, flimsy

dress material, tinselly embroideries, parrots, pencils, pastry,

and other curiously diverse articles, are to be found displayed in

immediate proximity to dried fish--emitting a powerful and pungent

odour--live iguanas (a large species of edible lizard), squawking

fowls, and repulsive-looking chunks of bleeding, freshly-killed

beef. Altogether an active, if not exactly an attractive,

market-place, and one which offers a continually shifting scene of

life and colour, enduring from sunrise to sunset.

In regard to hotel accommodation, Sonsonate is decidedly better off

than many towns outside the Capital. There are at least three houses

from among which the traveller may make his choice.

The Grand Hotel is situated immediately facing the railway-station,

and although far from attractive externally, it is quite comfortable

and clean within. The rooms, if small, are fairly well-furnished;

the dining-room is kept scrupulously clean, and the domestic service

generally is prompt and willing. The baths which are found here are

not at all bad, and are likewise kept very clean. A good business is

carried on, apparently, by the proprietors, Messrs. Brando y Emeldi,

since every train on the Salvador Railway stops at Sonsonate,

whether proceeding north or south, or, more strictly speaking, east

or west. Before its journey from the port of Acajutla to the capital

of San Salvador, the train remains for one hour, and the down-train

remains for two hours. Inasmuch as the hotel maintains quite a

respectable cellar, and there is plenty of time for the passengers

to test its contents, the proprietors find this part of the hotel

business a remarkably profitable one.

The hotel in this town of second importance is El Blanco y Negro

(Black and White). The situation is decidedly preferable to that of

the Grand, being in a side but wide street, out of hearing range of

the inevitable noise proceeding at the railway-station, but in other

respects it is less attractive to the many.

DEPARTMENT OF AHUACHAPÁN.

_Cities._--Ahauchapán, Atiquizaya (2).

Being the immediate neighbour of the sister Republic of Guatemala,

this Department was once destined to become the route for the

railway which was to--and may yet--connect up the two States by an

iron link. It is bounded on the north and the west by this Republic,

and on the east by the Departments of Sonsonate and Santa Ana. Very

rugged and very wild is the northern part of the country, but there

are several level plains north of the coastal range of mountains

which crosses the country from east to west. Here are also several

active volcanoes; the number of hot springs and sulphur baths

should one day draw considerable visitors, more especially since

the waters, medicinally speaking, are said to rank among the most

wonderfully curative in the world. If these springs and baths were

located anywhere but in little-known Salvador, they would probably

be thronged with patients from all over the globe, seeking their

beneficent and speedy aid against the ravages of blood complaints,

rheumatism, and skin diseases.

[Illustration: MUNICIPAL PALACE AT SONSONATE, DEPARTMENT OF

SONSONATE.]

As a Department, Ahuachapán was "created" in 1869, having formerly

been considered as parts of the Departments of Santa Ana and

Sonsonate. It possesses the unmatched Valley of Chalchuapa, which

for extreme fertility and magnificent climate will compare with

any similar country in Latin-America. Agriculture in all of its

different aspects is carried on, and prosperity uninterrupted dwells

in this small earthly paradise. Coffee, sugar, tobacco, cotton,

cereals, fine fruits and vegetables, grow here practically without

any attention; while an active commerce is carried on, through the

port of Acajutla, with other ports of the Republic, to which it

sends large consignments of cereals and sugar. It likewise imports

woollen goods and mercury from Guatemala, and cattle and mules

from Honduras. Altogether, a thriving trade and a valuable natural

production are carried on during all the year in this prosperous

Department.

Ahuachapán Town has always possessed, and must always retain, some

value as a commercial centre, since it is the starting-place for the

export of coffee to the coast, the route having formerly been over

very precipitous and wretched trails, which, however, have latterly

been much improved. One of the fords over the Rio Paz, known as Los

Organos, on the trail from the _aldea_ of Cofradias, in Guatemala,

leads by a very beautiful route to the town of Ahuachapán. It has a

population of between 11,000 and 12,000 inhabitants, the Department

which bears the same name having a complement of some 37,000 people.

There is a good cart-road leading to Sonsonate via Otaco and

Apaneca, which are two mountain towns.

Being situated at an agreeable altitude above sea-level--2,620 feet,

which is some 500 feet higher than Santa Ana--the town is more

open to the winds, so that the air is generally fresh and cool,

especially at nights. Ahuachapán overlooks the valleys of the Rivers

Paz and Chalchuapa, while beyond them are seen the many peaks of

the Guatemalian mountains, as well as the outstanding volcano of

San Salvador. There are but few foreigners in this town, but the

courtesy and friendliness of the people render a stay there more

than usually pleasant. The people as a whole seemed to me to be very

well-to-do, and evidences of refinement and solid comfort were to be

met with upon all sides. This prosperity emanated, I was informed,

from the many rich and productive _fincas_ in the neighbourhood,

which are engaged in growing coffee. The majority of these _fincas_

seem to belong to quite small and humble proprietors. I was also

impressed with the absence of the usual number of _estancos_, or

public drinking shops, of which I counted scarcely more than six in

the whole town.

There is a good social club here, which is "teetotal," and there

are the usual number of churches, one of them being an extremely

handsome edifice. The Government buildings and the residence of the

Governor are sufficiently imposing; the streets are both well paved

and well drained. The majority of the houses are built of _adobe_,

but some are of brick, and one or two are of stone, or at least they

are stone-faced. Most of the better-class residences, however, are

stuccoed with either brown, white, or coloured plaster on the side

which faces the street. There seemed to be an abundant supply of

good water available, free baths being provided and also apparently

well patronized. I had noticed the same thing in Cojutepeque and

other Salvadorean towns, proving that the inhabitants pay strict

regard to cleanliness. The Ahuachapán public baths have a continuous

supply of warm water, which is received from the neighbouring hot

springs.