ICES
Ices, with their accompanying “petits fours,” bring the dinner to a
close—at least as far as Cookery is concerned; and, when they are well
prepared and daintily dished, they are the consummation of all that is
delicate and good. In no other department of the work has the culinary
artist so freely indulged his fancy, or created such delectable
kickshaws; and, though Italy be the cradle of the ice-worker’s art,
though the Neapolitans have deservedly maintained their reputation as
authorities in this matter, to French workmen, certainly, is due the
credit of those innovations which have perfected this important branch
of dietetic science.
2744—THE MAKING OF ICES
Whatever be the kind of ices required, they should always be prepared
in advance; for none of these preparations can be made ready at a
moment’s notice.
There are two distinct operations in the confection of ices:—
(1) The making of the preparation.
(2) The freezing and the moulding of the preparation. I shall begin by
dealing with the second operation, which remains the same for all ices,
and is the essential part of the procedure.
To freeze an ice preparation is to surround it with broken ice, mixed
with sodium chloride (sea-salt or freezing salt) and saltpetre. The
action of these two salts upon the ice causes a considerable drop in
the temperature, which speedily congeals any contiguous liquid. Subject
to their nature, ices are either moulded and frozen directly in their
moulds, like the light ices: iced Biscuits, iced _Soufflés_, Puddings,
_Mousses_, Parfaits, Bombes, etc.; or first frozen in a special utensil
called a freezer, and then moulded and frozen afresh. Cream and syrup
ices are prepared by the second method; and this I shall now describe.
The freezers, in which the freezing takes place, are generally wielded
by hand, either directly or by means of some mechanism. They should
be of pure tin, and fitted, at their base on to a central pivot which
turns in a socket, fixed in the wooden case which holds the freezer.
Having hermetically closed the latter, surround it with broken
ice containing three lbs. of salt and eight oz. of saltpetre per
twenty-five lbs.
The freezer should be one-third of its height out of the ice, in
order that no particle of salted ice may accidentally fall into the
preparation while it is being frozen. The ice should be snugly massed,
by means of a special pestle, round the freezer. This operation
constitutes the packing, and should be effected at least ten minutes in
advance if possible.
Having thus prepared the freezer, pour into it the preparation to be
frozen and then either keep it in motion by rocking the utensil to and
fro, by grasping the handle on the cover (if the apparatus is worked by
hand), or by turning the handle if the utensil is on a central axle,
fitted with the usual mechanism. In either case, the rotary movement
of the utensil causes the preparation to splash continually against
the sides of the freezer, where it rapidly congeals, and the congealed
portions are removed by means of a special spatula, as quickly as
they form, until the whole becomes a smooth and homogeneous mass. The
delicacy and creaminess of the ice depend a great deal upon the care
with which this freezing operation is effected; hence the preference
which is now given to freezers fitted with a mechanism whereby two
fans revolve inside in a direction opposite to that of the body of
the machine, and thus not only detach the congealed portions of the
preparation under treatment from the sides of the receptacle, but also
work it with a regularity impossible to human motion.
2745—THE MOULDING OF ICES
Having thus frozen the preparation, it may now be set in rock-form on a
napkin, as it used sometimes to be served in the past, or in glasses.
But as a rule it is put into special moulds, having closely-fitting
covers. These moulds should be carefully filled, and banged on a folded
napkin, that the ice may settle and drive out any air which might be
the cause of holes being found in the preparation. When it is filled,
place the mould in a receptacle of a suitable size, and surround it
with broken ice, prepared as for the packing. The mould should remain
at least an hour in the ice, in the case of an ordinary ice, and an
extra two hours if the ice be light and not previously frozen as are
the Bombes.
When about to serve, take the mould out of the ice; wash it to rid it
of the taint of salt; dip it in tepid water for an instant, that the
surface of the preparation inside may melt and separate easily from the
mould. Overturn the mould; and turn out the ice upon a folded napkin
lying on a dish.
2746—PREPARATIONS FOR SIMPLE ICES
Preparations for simple ices are of two kinds: those made from cream,
and those made from syrup; the latter being principally used for fruit
ices.
As the quantities of sugar and eggs used for these preparations vary
exceedingly, the following recipes have been based upon a working
average.
If creamier ices be required, all that is needed is an increase in the
sugar and egg-yolks per quart of milk; while, if the ices be required
harder but less creamy, the two ingredients above mentioned should be
proportionately reduced.
As an example of the difference that may exist between cream
preparations, I might instance the case of ice-cream, which may be
made from seven to sixteen egg-yolks, and six oz. to one lb. of sugar
per quart of milk. In regard to ices made from syrups and fruit, their
preparations may measure from 15° to 30° or 32°. (saccharometer)
respectively.
2747—ICE-CREAM PREPARATION (Generic Recipe)
Work two-thirds lb. of sugar and ten egg-yolks in a saucepan until the
mixture reaches the _ribbon_-stage. Dilute it, little by little, with
one quart of boiling milk, and stir over a moderate fire until the
preparation veneers the withdrawn spoon. Avoid boiling, as it might
decompose the custard.
Strain the whole into a basin and stir it from time to time until it
is quite cold.
N.B.—For the various ice-cream preparations, the amount of sugar and
number of egg-yolks, as also the procedure, do not change. They are
only distinguishable by the particular flavour or infusion which may
happen to characterise them.
=Various Ice-Cream Preparations.=
2748—ALMOND ICE-CREAM
Finely pound three and a half oz. of freshly-skinned sweet almonds and
five bitter almonds; adding to them, little by little, in order to
facilitate the pounding, a few tablespoonfuls of water.
Set this almond paste to infuse, twenty minutes beforehand, in the
boiling milk, and prepare the cream as directed above, with the same
quantities of sugar and egg-yolks.
2749—ASPARAGUS ICE-CREAM
Parboil six oz. of asparagus-tops or sprew for two minutes. Thoroughly
drain them; quickly pound them, together with a few tablespoonfuls of
milk, and set this asparagus paste to infuse in the boiled milk.
2750—FILBERT ICE-CREAM
Slightly torrify three and half oz. of filberts; finely pound them,
together with a few tablespoonfuls of milk, and set the resulting paste
to infuse for twenty minutes in the boiled milk.
2751—COFFEE ICE-CREAM
Add two oz. of freshly-grilled and crushed coffee seeds to the boiled
milk, and let them infuse for twenty minutes.
Or, with an equivalent amount of ground coffee and half a pint of
water, prepare a very strong infusion and add it to one and a half
pints of boiled milk.
2752—CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM
Dissolve eight oz. of grated chocolate in half pint of water, and add
thereto one quart of boiled milk, in which a large stick of vanilla
has previously been infused. For this preparation, eight oz. of sugar
and seven egg-yolks will be found sufficient, if the chocolate used be
sweet.
2753—WALNUT ICE-CREAM
Finely pound three and a half oz. of well-peeled walnuts with a few
tablespoonfuls of water, and set them to infuse for twenty minutes in
boiling milk.
2754—PISTACHIO ICE-CREAM
Pound two oz. of sweet almonds, and two and a half oz. of
freshly-peeled pistachios; moistening them with a few drops of milk.
Set the paste to infuse for twenty minutes in the boiled milk.
2755—PRALINED ICE-CREAM
Pound and rub through a sieve four oz. of almond _pralin_, and add
thereto one quart of previously-prepared vanilla-flavoured custard.
2756—TEA ICE-CREAM
Add one pint of very strong tea to one and a half pints of boiled milk,
and make the preparation in the usual way.
2757—VANILLA ICE-CREAM
When the milk has boiled, infuse in it one large stick of vanilla for
twenty minutes.
N.B.—If these various preparations be required more creamy, the
milk may be wholly or partly replaced by fresh cream. Also when the
preparation is congealed, it may be combined with one-sixth pint of
whipped cream per quart.
2758—PREPARATIONS FOR FRUIT ICES
The base of these preparations is a syrup of sugar at 32° (saccharom.),
to which a purée of fruit, an essence, or a liqueur is added, which
will give the ice its character. All these preparations require lemon
juice, the quantity of which varies according to the acidity of the
fruit used, but which, even in the case of the tartest fruits, should
not measure less than the amount that may be extracted from a whole
lemon per quart of the preparation.
Orange juice may also be used, more especially for red-fruit ices;
while the juices of the orange and the lemons combined throw the
flavour of the fruit under treatment into remarkable relief.
In the season the juices are extracted from fresh fruit, pressed and
rubbed through tammy. When the season is over the preserved juice of
fruit is used.
All red-fruit ices are improved, once they are set, by an addition of
half pint of raw, fresh cream per quart of the preparation.
2759—THE MAKING OF FRUIT ICE PREPARATIONS
These preparations are made in two ways as follows:—
(1) Rub the fruit through a fine sieve, after having pounded it if its
nature admit of it. Dilute the purée with an equal quantity of cold
sugar syrup at 32° (saccharom.), and add lemon juice in a quantity
subject to the acidity of the treated fruit.
This mixture of ingredients should always be cold, and should be
tested with saccharom (pèse-sirops). If the instrument marks more than
the proper degree, dilute the preparation with a little water; if it
mark less, add syrup until the required degree is reached.
(2) Pound the fruit with an average quantity of ten oz. of sugar
per lb.; but remember that this proportion may be modified either way,
subject to the sweetness of the fruit used.
Rub the whole through a sieve; and then, to obtain the proper degree of
strength, add the necessary quantity of filtered water.
2760—LIQUEUR-ICE PREPARATIONS
These preparations are made by adding to the syrup or the cream which
forms the base of the ice a given quantity of the selected liqueur, the
latter being generally added when the preparation is cold.
The proportion of one-fifth pint of liqueur per quart of syrup may be
taken as an average. Subject to the requirements this liqueur flavour
may be intensified with strong tea for rum ices; with orange-rind for
Curaçao-flavoured ices, with fresh, crushed cherry-stones for Kirsch
ices, etc.
These preparations should always contain some lemon-juice, and their
strength should reach the average degree indicated for fruit ices.
=Various Fruit-Ice Preparations.=
2761—APRICOT ICE
Take one pint of fresh apricot purée, one pint of syrup, and the juice
of two lemons. The strength of the preparation should measure 18° or
19° (saccharometer).
2762—PINE-APPLE ICE
Set to macerate for two hours one pint of grated or pounded skinned
pine-apple in one pint of syrup. Rub the whole through a sieve, add the
juice of one lemon and a few drops of Kirsch, and test the preparation,
which should measure from 18° to 20°.
2763—BANANA ICE
Set one pint of pounded banana pulp to macerate for two hours in one
pint of Maraschino-flavoured syrup. Add the juice of three lemons, and
rub through a sieve. This preparation should measure from 20° to 21°.
2764—CHERRY ICE
Crush one pint of stoned cherries, and pound their stones. Set the
whole to macerate for one hour in one pint of syrup, flavoured with
Kirsch. Rub through a sieve and add the juice of a half-lemon. The
preparation should measure 21°.
2765—LEMON ICE
Set the zests of three lemon peels to infuse for three hours in one
pint of cold syrup. Add the juice of four lemons and of two oranges,
and strain the whole. The preparation should measure 22°.
2766—STRAWBERRY ICE
Mix one pint of strawberry purée with one pint of syrup, and add
thereto the juice of two oranges and of two lemons. Or pound two lbs.
of strawberries with one lb. of powdered sugar; add the juice of
oranges and lemons as above; rub the whole through a sieve, and add the
necessary amount of filtered water to bring the preparation to 16°or
18°.
2767—RASPBERRY ICE
Proceed as for No. 2766, and use the same quantities.
2768—RED-CURRANT ICE
Mix one pint of red-currant juice with one pint of syrup. In view of
the natural acidity of the fruit, lemon-juice may be dispensed with.
The preparation should measure 20°.
2769—TANGERINE ICE
Throw the _zests_ of the rinds of four tangerines into one and one-half
pints of boiling syrup. Let the whole cool; rub it through a sieve, and
finish it with the juice of six tangerines, two oranges and one lemon.
The preparation should measure 21°.
2770—MELON ICE
Mix one pint of very ripe melon pulp with one pint of syrup, the juice
of two oranges and one lemon, and one tablespoonful of orange-flower
water. Rub the whole through a sieve. The mixture should measure 22°.
2771—ORANGE ICE
Throw the _zests_ of the rinds of four oranges into one quart of
boiling syrup. Let the whole cool; add the juice of four oranges and
one lemon, and rub it through a sieve. It should measure 21°.
2772—PEACH ICE
Proceed as for No. 2761, using wall peaches if possible.
2773—PEAR ICE
Peel, core, and pound some fine William pears, with one lb. of
powdered sugar per two-thirds lb. of the fruit; and add thereto the
juice of two lemons per lb. of pears. Rub the whole through a sieve,
and add enough filtered water to bring it to 22°.
2774—PLUM ICE
Proceed as for No. 2761, bringing the preparation to 20°.
2775—GRAPE ICE
Add to one and one-half pints of the juice of sweet, pressed grapes the
juice of three lemons and the necessary quantity of powdered sugar to
bring the preparation to 20°. Rub the whole through a sieve.
2776—VIOLET ICE
Put half a lb. of cleaned violet petals into one and one-half pints
of boiling syrup. Let them infuse for ten minutes; strain the whole
through a sieve; let it cool, and finish it with the juice of three
lemons. The preparation should measure from 20° to 21°.
=Various Ices.=
2777—GLACE ALHAMBRA
Take a _Madeleine-mould_; _clothe_ its bottom and sides with vanilla
ice-cream and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined with fresh
strawberries, macerated for two hours in Kümmel, which should
afterwards be added to the Chantilly cream.
2778—GLACE CARMEN
Take a fluted mould. Garnish it with vertical and alternate layers of
raspberry ice, coffee ice, and vanilla ice-cream.
2779—GLACE COMTESSE MARIE
Take a special square mould, even or ornamented on the top. _Clothe_ it
with strawberry ice; fill it with vanilla ice-cream; and, after turning
it out, decorate it, by means of a piping-bag (fitted with a grooved
pipe), with vanilla ice-cream.
2780—GLACE COUCHER DE SOLEIL
Select one pound of fine very ripe strawberries, and put them in a
silver timbale. Sprinkle them with ten ounces of powdered sugar and one
liqueur-glass full of Grand-Marnier liqueur; cover the timbale and keep
it on ice for half an hour.
Then rub the strawberries through a sieve; and, with their purée, make
a preparation after the directions given under Fruit Ices. Freeze this
preparation in the freezer, and, when it is set, combine with it one
pint of Chantilly cream. Now cover the freezer; surround it afresh with
ice if necessary, and keep it thus for thirty-five to forty minutes.
This done, dish the ice preparation with care in pyramid form in
crystal bowls.
N.B.—This ice gets its name from its colour, which should be that of
the western sky during a fine sunset.
2781—GLACE DAME-JEANNE
Take a _Madeleine-mould_; _clothe_ it with vanilla ice-cream, and fill
it with Chantilly cream, combined with _pralined_ orange flowers.
2782—GLACE DORA
Take a _Madeleine-mould_; _clothe_ it with vanilla ice-cream, and fill
it with Kirsch-flavoured Chantilly cream combined with pine-apple dice
and Bar red-currant jam.
2783—GLACE ÉTOILE DU BERGER
Take a star-shaped mould, or a _Madeleine-mould_ with a star on its
bottom. _Clothe_ it with raspberry ice, and fill it with Bénédictine
flavoured _Mousse_.
Turn it out upon a regular disc, consisting of a thick layer of white
spun sugar, lying on a dish. This spun sugar throws the ice into
relief, and emits rays which dart out from between the points of the
star.
2784—GLACE FLEURETTE
Take a square mould. Garnish it with strawberry and pine-apple ice,
laid in very regular, superposed layers. After turning it out decorate
with lemon ice.
2785—GLACE FRANCILLON
Take a square mould; _clothe_ it with coffee ice, and fill it with
liqueur-brandy ice.
2786—FROMAGE GLACÉ
These ices are made in fluted moulds, and generally with two
differently flavoured and coloured ices, set vertically in the mould.
2787—GLACE DES GOURMETS
Take a “bombe” mould. _Clothe_ it with _pralined_, vanilla-ice cream.
Fill it with alternate layers of chestnut ice flavoured with rum, and
vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream. When the ice is turned out, roll it
in _pralined_ splintered almonds.
2788—MOULDED ICES
These ices are made in large or small moulds.
The large ices are moulded in tin moulds, fitted with hinged covers,
and ornamented with some design. The small ones, which are generally
served at evening parties, or are used to garnish larger ices, are made
in similar moulds, shaped like flowers, fruit, birds, leaf-sprays, etc.
Any ice preparation may be used for these ices; but, as a rule, the
preparation should have something in keeping with the design of the
mould used.
Small moulded ices may be kept packed until they are served. They may
also be turned out in advance and kept in the refrigerator.
2789—GLACE DES ILES
Take a _Madeleine-mould_; _clothe_ it with vanilla ice-cream, and fill
it with pine-apple ice.
2790—MADELEINE GLACÉE
Take a _Madeleine-mould_. Fill it with vanilla ice-cream, combined with
half its bulk of Chantilly cream and candied fruit macerated in Kirsch.
2791—MANDARINES GLACÉES
Cut the tangerines on top, with a round, even cutter, in suchwise as to
remove a roundel of their peel with the stalk attached, and two leaves
adhering thereto.
With the juice of the tangerines prepare some tangerine ice, after the
directions given under Fruit-ice Preparations. Fill the tangerines with
this ice; cover them with the roundels removed at the start; and, with
a brush, sprinkle the rinds of the fruit with water, and place them in
a refrigerator.
As soon as the tangerines are coated with frost, serve them on a napkin.
2792—MANDARINES GLACÉES AUX PERLES DES ALPES
Empty the tangerines as above, and garnish them inside with tangerine
_mousse_, with which Chartreuse bon-bons have been mixed. Cover them,
and frost them as directed above.
2793—GLACE MARIE-THÉRÈSE
Take a _Madeleine-mould_; _clothe_ it with chocolate ice, and fill it
with vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.
After turning out, decorate it with pine-apple ice.
2794—MERINGUES GLACÉES
Garnish some _meringue_ shells with some kind of spoon-moulded ice, and
set them on a napkin.
Or, garnish the shells more sparingly and join them together in twos.
2795—GLACE PLOMBIÈRE
Take a parfait mould. Garnish it with vanilla-ice cream combined with
candied fruit, macerated in Kirsch; spreading the preparation in
alternate layers with apricot jam.
COUPES.
We are now concerned with bowls garnished, either with
differently-flavoured ices, or with ices combined with Chantilly cream
or candied fruit. The bowls used for this purpose should be of crystal.
2796—COUPES D’ANTIGNY
Three-parts fill the bowls with Alpine-strawberry ice, or, failing
this, four-seasons strawberry ice, combined with very light and
strongly-flavoured raw cream. The two most perfect examples of this
cream are the “Fleurette Normande,” and that which in the South of
France is called “Crème Niçoise,” and which comes from Alpine pastures.
Upon the ice of each bowl set a half-peach, poached in vanilla-flavoured
syrup; and veil the whole thinly with spun sugar.
2797—COUPES CLO-CLO
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla-ice cream, combined
with fragments of candied chestnuts, macerated in Maraschino. Set a
candied chestnut in the middle of the ice, and surround it by means of
a piping-bag with a border of Chantilly cream, containing strawberry
purée.
2798—COUPES DAME BLANCHE
Three-parts garnish the bowls with almond-milk ice. Upon the ice in
each bowl set an overturned half-peach, poached in vanilla-flavoured
syrup, the hollow of which should be filled with Bar red-currant jam.
Surround the peaches with a thread of lemon ice, laid by means of a
piping-bag.
2799—COUPES DENISE
Garnish the bowls with Moka ice, and sprinkle the latter with sweets
containing liqueur (preferably rum). Cover with Chantilly cream laid on
by means of the spoon.
2800—COUPES EDNA MAY
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, and upon the
latter set some very cold stewed cherries. Cover the latter with a cone
of Chantilly cream, tinted pink by means of a fresh raspberry purée.
2801—COUPES ELIZABETH
These coupes do not contain ice. They are garnished with very
cold stewed choice bigaroon cherries, poached in a Kirsch- and
cherry-brandy-flavoured syrup. The fruit is covered with Chantilly
cream which is laid on by means of a spoon, and sprinkled with powdered
spices in which cinnamon should predominate.
2802—COUPES EMMA CALVE
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with _pralined_ vanilla ice-cream. Upon
the latter set some Kirsch-flavoured stewed cherries, and cover the
latter with raspberry purée.
2803—COUPES EUGENIE
Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, combined with broken candied
chestnuts. Cover the ice with Chantilly cream and upon the latter
sprinkle some crystallised violets.
2804—COUPES A LA FAVORITE
Garnish the bowls vertically, half with Kirsch-Maraschino-flavoured
ice, and half with vanilla ice-cream. Border them with a thread of
pine-apple ice, and in the middle set some Chantilly cream combined
with strawberry purée.
2805—COUPES GERMAINE
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice, and distribute over
it half-sugared cherries, macerated in Kirsch. Cover the cherries with
a dry purée of chestnuts, squeezed out to resemble vermicelli, and
border the bowls with Chantilly cream.
2806—COUPES GRESSAC
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, and upon the
latter in each bowl set three small macaroons, saturated with Kirsch.
Upon the macaroons set an overturned poached half-peach, the hollow
of which should be garnished with Bar red-currant jam. Surround the
peaches with a border of Chantilly cream.
2807—COUPES JACQUES
Garnish the bowls vertically, half with lemon and half with strawberry
ice. Between the two ices, on top of the bowl, set a tablespoonful of a
_macédoine_ of fresh fruit, macerated in Kirsch.
2808—COUPES A LA MALMAISON
Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, combined with peeled Muscadel
grapes. Veil with spun sugar.
2809—COUPES A LA MEXICAINE
Garnish the bowls with tangerine ice, combined with pine-apple cut into
very small dice.
2810—COUPES MIREILLE
Garnish the bowls, half with vanilla ice-cream, and half with
red-currant ice with cream. In the middle of each bowl set a nectarine
poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, the stone of which should be
replaced by Bar white-currant jam.
Decorate with Chantilly cream, and cover with a veil of spun sugar.
2811—COUPES PETIT DUC
Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream. Set in each a poached
half-peach garnished with Bar red-currant jam. Surround the peaches
with a thread of lemon ice.
2812—COUPES RÊVE DE BÉBÉ
Garnish the bowls, half with pine-apple ice and half with raspberry ice.
Between the two ices set a line of small strawberries, macerated in
orange juice. Border the bowls with Chantilly cream, and sprinkle the
latter with crystallised violets.
2813—COUPES MADAME SANS-GÊNE
Garnish the bottom and sides of the bowls with a layer of vanilla
ice-cream. Fill them with Bar red-currant jam, and cover the latter, by
means of a spoon, with Chantilly cream.
2814—COUPES TUTTI-FRUTTI
Sprinkle the bottom of the bowls with various fresh fruits cut into
dice; garnish the bowls with strawberry, pine-apple and lemon ices,
spread alternately with layers of the same fruits.
2815—COUPES VENUS
Half-fill the bowls with vanilla ice-cream.
In the middle of each bowl set a small peach, poached in
vanilla-flavoured syrup, with a very red, small cherry upon it.
Border the peaches with a thread of Chantilly cream.
2816—LIGHT ICES
These ices differ from those dealt with above, in that they are moulded
and frozen directly, without a sojourn in the freezer.
To this class belong the ices most commonly served and the best; and,
since their preparation requires no special utensils, they may be
served everywhere: such are the “Iced Biscuits,” the “Bombes,” the
“Mousses,” the “Parfaits,” the “Puddings,” and the “Iced Soufflés.”
These different kinds of ices greatly resemble one another, and their
names, which are puzzling at times, are only a matter of fancy.
2817—VARIOUS PREPARATIONS
The old iced-biscuit preparation consisted of an English custard,
prepared from one lb. of sugar, twelve egg-yolks, and one pint of milk.
When the custard was cooked, it used to be strained into a basin,
left to cool (being fanned the while), and then placed upon ice, and
finished with the whisk. Originally this cream was moulded at this
stage; but now it is customary to add one quart of whipped cream to it;
which operation renders the recipe more like that of a Bombe, which, in
its turn, resembles that of the preparation for _Mousses_.
=Iced Biscuits.=
2818—PREPARATION FOR ICED BISCUITS
Whisk in a copper basin, in a _bain-marie_, twelve egg-yolks and
one lb. of powdered sugar, until the paste gets very firm and reaches
the _ribbon_-stage.
Take the basin off the fire, and whisk until the whole is quite cold.
Then, add eight oz. of Italian _meringue_ and one pint of whisked cream.
2819—THE MOULDING OF ICED BISCUITS
These biscuits are moulded in rectangular brick-shaped cases, fitted
with lids, top and bottom.
Generally, the preparation moulded in the covers is of a different
flavour and colour from the one filling the middle of the mould.
For example, one of the covers may be garnished with strawberry, and
the other with violet preparation, while the central portion may hold
a vanilla-flavoured preparation. After having frozen them for three
hours, in a pail filled with freezing ice, and turned them out, these
bricks are cut up vertically into rectangles, on the cut sides of
which the differently coloured layers are distinctly marked. Place
these rectangles in special paper cases; decorate them on top, if the
directions admit of it, and place them in a refrigerator until about to
serve.
Nearly all Bombe preparations may become the base of biscuits, which
are then named after them; _e.g._: from Bombe Odessa, Odessa Iced
Biscuits may be prepared.
=Various Iced Biscuits.=
2820—ICED BISCUIT BÉNÉDICTINE
Mould the base with strawberry ice, the middle with Bénédictine ice,
and the top with violet ice. Freeze and cut up as directed.
2821—ICED BISCUIT MARQUISE
Mould with Kirsch and strawberry ices, alternated twice.
2822—ICED BISCUIT MONT-BLANC
Mould the base with a rum-flavoured preparation, the middle with a
chestnut preparation, and the top with a vanilla-flavoured preparation.
2823—ICED BISCUIT NAPOLITAINE
Mould the base with a vanilla-flavoured preparation, the middle with
strawberry ice, and the top with a preparation of _pralined_ biscuit.
2824—ICED BISCUIT PRINCESSE
Mould and leave to set a biscuit-_pralined_ preparation. After having
cut up the moulding, surround it with splintered and _pralined_ almonds.
Decorate the pieces with vanilla ice-cream and tangerine ice.
2825—ICED BISCUIT SIGURD
Mould the base with strawberry and the top with pistachio biscuit
preparation. When the biscuit is frozen, cut it into rectangular
slices, and sandwich each slice between two sugar wafers.
2826—BOMBES (Generic Recipe)
Originally, Bombes were made from an ordinary ice preparation, in
spherical moulds; hence their name, which is once more justified by
their arrangement, consisting as it used to do of superposed and
concentric layers, the outermost of which was very thin. Nowadays,
Bombes are more often moulded in the shape of shells, but the
preparation from which they are made is much more delicate than it was
formerly.
2827—PREPARATION FOR BOMBES
Gradually mix thirty-two egg-yolks with one quart of syrup at 28°. Put
the whole on a very moderate fire, whisking it as for a _Génoise_, and,
when the preparation is firm enough and taken off the fire, continue
whisking it over ice until it is quite cold. Then add the selected
flavour, and one and one-third quarts of stiffly-whipped cream.
2828—THE MOULDING OF BOMBES
First _clothe_ the bottom and sides of a mould with the ice preparation
denoted by the name of the Bombe. This coat, which should vary in
thickness in accordance with the size of the mould, should be somewhat
thin, and made from an ordinary ice preparation, which is suited better
than any other kind to this class of dish.
The middle is then filled with a Bombe preparation, flavoured as
directed, or with a _Mousse_ preparation. The whole is then covered
with a round piece of white paper, and the mould is hermetically sealed
with its cover, set to freeze, and left for two or three hours in the
ice.
When about to serve, take the mould out of the ice; wash it with cold
water; dip it quickly in tepid water; dry it with a towel, and overturn
the mould on a napkin or on a block of ice.
=Various Bombes.=
2829—BOMBE ABOUKIR
Having _clothed_ the mould with pistachio ice, fill it with a
_pralined_ Bombe-preparation, combined with chopped pistachios.
2830—BOMBE AFRICAINE
_Clothe_ the mould with chocolate ice, and fill it with an apricot
Bombe-preparation.
2831—BOMBE ABRICOTINE
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Kirsch-flavoured
Bombe-preparation, laid in alternate layers with stewed apricots.
2832—BOMBE AÏDA
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a
Kirsch-flavoured Bombe-preparation.
2833—BOMBE ALMERIA
_Clothe_ the mould with Anisette ice, and fill it with a pomegranate
Bombe-preparation.
2834—BOMBE ALHAMBRA
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and garnish it with a
strawberry Bombe-preparation. After turning it out surround the Bombe
with a crown of fine strawberries macerated in Kirsch.
2835—BOMBE AMÉRICAINE
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a tangerine
Bombe-preparation. After turning out decorate the Bombe with pistachio
ice.
2836—BOMBE ANDALOUSE
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a vanilla
Bombe-preparation.
2837—BOMBE BATAVIA
_Clothe_ the mould with a pine-apple ice and fill it up with a
strawberry Bombe-preparation, combined with candied ginger cut into
dice.
2838—BOMBE BOURDALOUE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it up with an
Anisette Bombe-preparation.
After turning out decorate the Bombe with crystallised violets.
2839—BOMBE BRÉSILIENNE
_Clothe_ the mould with pine-apple ice, and fill it with a vanilla and
rum Bombe-preparation combined with pine-apple dice.
2840—BOMBE CAMARGO
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a vanilla
Bombe-preparation.
2841—BOMBE CARDINAL
_Clothe_ the mould with a red-currant and raspberry ice, and fill it
with a _pralined_ vanilla Bombe-preparation.
2842—BOMBE CEYLAN
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice and fill it with a rum
Bombe-preparation.
2843—BOMBE CHÂTEAUBRIAND
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a vanilla
Bombe-preparation.
2844—BOMBE CLARENCE
_Clothe_ the mould with banana ice, and fill it with a violet
Bombe-preparation.
2845—BOMBE COLOMBIA
_Clothe_ the mould with Kirsch ice, and fill it with a pear
Bombe-preparation. After turning out decorate the Bombe with
half-sugared cherries.
2846—BOMBE COPPÉLIA
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a _pralined_
Bombe-preparation.
2847—BOMBE CZARINE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice, and fill it with a Kümmel
Bombe-preparation. After turning out decorate it with crystallised
violets.
2848—BOMBE DAME-BLANCHE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice, and fill it with an almond milk
Bombe-preparation.
2849—BOMBE DANICHEFF
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Kirsch
Bombe-preparation.
2850—BOMBE DIABLE ROSE
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a Kirsch
Bombe-preparation, combined with half-sugared cherries.
2851—BOMBE DIPLOMATE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a
Maraschino Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.
2852—BOMBE DUCHESSE
_Clothe_ the mould with banana-ice, and fill it with a pear
Bombe-preparation flavoured with Kirsch.
2853—BOMBE FANCHON
_Clothe_ the mould with _pralined_ ice, and fill it with a Kirsch
Bombe-preparation, containing some coffee-drops.
2854—BOMBE FEDORA
_Clothe_ the mould with orange ice, and fill it with a _pralined_
Bombe-preparation.
2855—BOMBE FLORENTINE
_Clothe_ the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with a _pralined_
Bombe-preparation.
2856—BOMBE FORMOSA
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a strawberry
Bombe-preparation, combined with big strawberries.
2857—BOMBE FRANCILLON
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Bombe-preparation
flavoured with liqueur-brandy.
2858—BOMBE FROU-FROU
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a rum
Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.
2859—BOMBE GRANDE DUCHESSE
_Clothe_ the mould with pear ice, and fill it with a Chartreuse
Bombe-preparation.
2860—BOMBE GISMONDA
_Clothe_ the mould with _pralined_ ice, and fill it with an Anisette
Bombe-preparation, combined with Bar white-currant jam.
2861—BOMBE HAVANAISE
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a vanilla and rum
Bombe-preparation.
2862—BOMBE HILDA
_Clothe_ the mould with filbert ice, and fill it with a Chartreuse
Bombe-preparation, combined with filbert _pralin_.
2863—BOMBE HOLLANDAISE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a Curaçao
Bombe-preparation.
2864—BOMBE JAFFA
_Clothe_ the mould with _pralined_ ice, and fill it with an orange
Bombe-preparation.
2865—BOMBE JAPONAISE
_Clothe_ the mould with peach ice, and fill it with a tea
_mousse_-preparation.
2866—BOMBE JEANNE D’ARC
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a chocolate
_pralined_ Bombe-preparation.
2867—BOMBE JOSÉPHINE
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a pistachio
Bombe-preparation.
2868—BOMBE MADELEINE
_Clothe_ the mould with almond ice, and fill it with a vanilla and
Kirsch Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.
2869—BOMBE MALTAISE
_Clothe_ the mould with blood-orange ice, and fill it with
tangerine-flavoured Chantilly cream.
2870—BOMBE A LA MARÉCHALE
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with alternate
layers of pistachio, orange and vanilla Bombe-preparation.
2871—BOMBE MARGOT
_Clothe_ the mould with almond ice, and fill it with pistachio
Bombe-preparation. After turning out, decorate with vanilla ice-cream.
2872—BOMBE MARIE LOUISE
_Clothe_ the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with a vanilla
Bombe-preparation.
2873—BOMBE MARQUISE
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Champagne
Bombe-preparation.
2874—BOMBE MASCOTTE
_Clothe_ the mould with peach-ice, and fill it with a Kirsch
Bombe-preparation.
2875—BOMBE MATHILDE
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with an apricot
Bombe-preparation.
2876—BOMBE MÉDICIS
_Clothe_ the mould with brandy ice, and fill it with a raspberry
Bombe-preparation.
2877—BOMBE MERCÉDÈS
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Chartreuse
Bombe-preparation.
2878—BOMBE MIGNON
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with nut
Bombe-preparation.
2879—BOMBE MISS HELYETT
_Clothe_ the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with a vanilla
Bombe-preparation.
2880—BOMBE MOGADOR
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Kirsch
Bombe-preparation.
2881—BOMBE MOLDAVE
_Clothe_ the mould with pine-apple ice, and fill it with a Curaçao
Bombe-preparation.
2882—BOMBE MONTMORENCY
_Clothe_ the mould with Kirsch ice, and fill it with a cherry
Bombe-preparation. After turning out, surround it with half-candied
cherries.
2883—BOMBE MOSCOVITE
_Clothe_ the mould with Kümmel ice, and fill it with a bitter-almond
Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.
2884—BOMBE MOUSSELINE
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with Chantilly
cream, combined with strawberry purée.
2885—BOMBE NABAB
_Clothe_ the mould with _pralined_ ice, and fill it with a
liqueur-brandy Bombe-preparation, containing candied fruit.
2886—BOMBE NÉLUSKO
_Clothe_ the mould with filbert _pralined_ ice, and fill it with a
chocolate Bombe-preparation.
2887—BOMBE NERO
Take a dome-mould and _clothe_ it with vanilla ice-cream with caramel;
fill it with vanilla _Mousse_, combined with small, imitation truffles,
the size of small nuts, made from chocolate.
Turn out the Bombe on a thin cushion of Punch Biscuit, of the same
diameter as the Bombe. Cover the whole with a thin layer of Italian
_meringue_; and, on top, set a small receptacle made of Italian
_meringue_ dried in an almost cold oven. Decorate the sides by means of
a piping-bag with _meringue_, and set the whole in the oven to glaze
quickly.
On taking the Bombe out of the oven, pour some hot rum into the bowl,
and set a light to it when serving.
2888—BOMBE SAINT LAUD
_Clothe_ the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with alternate
layers of melon Bombe-preparation and Chantilly cream.
2889—BOMBE NESSELRODE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with Chantilly
cream, combined with chestnut purée.
2890—BOMBE ODETTE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a
_pralined_ Bombe-preparation.
2891—BOMBE ODESSA
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a strawberry
Bombe-preparation.
2892—BOMBE ORIENTALE
_Clothe_ the mould with ginger ice, and fill it with a pistachio
Bombe-preparation.
2893—BOMBE PATRICIENNE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a _pralin_
and chocolate Bombe-preparation.
2894—BOMBE PETIT DUC
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a hazel-nut
Bombe-preparation, combined with Bar red-currant jam.
2895—BOMBE POMPADOUR
_Clothe_ the mould with asparagus ice, and fill it with a pomegranate
Bombe-preparation.
2896—BOMBE PROPHÈTE
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with pine-apple
preparation.
2897—BOMBE RICHELIEU
_Clothe_ the mould with rum ice; fill it with a coffee
Bombe-preparation, and distribute coffee drops upon it after turning.
2898—BOMBE ROSETTE
_Clothe_ the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it up with
red-currant-flavoured Chantilly cream, combined with red-currants.
2899—BOMBE A LA ROYALE
_Clothe_ the mould with Kirsch ice, and fill it with a chocolate
_pralined_ Bombe-preparation.
2900—BOMBE SANTIAGO
_Clothe_ the mould with Brandy ice, and fill it with a pistachio
Bombe-preparation.
2901—BOMBE SÉLIKA
_Clothe_ the mould with _pralined_ ice, and fill it with a Curaçao
Bombe-preparation.
2902—BOMBE SKOBELEFF
_Clothe_ the mould with Vodka ice, and fill it with Kümmel-flavoured
Chantilly cream.
2903—BOMBE STROGOFF
_Clothe_ the mould with peach ice, and fill it with a Champagne
Bombe-preparation.
2904—BOMBE SUCCÊS
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with Kirsch-flavoured
Chantilly cream, combined with candied apricots cut into dice.
2905—BOMBE SULTANE
_Clothe_ the mould with chocolate ice, and fill it with a _pralined_
Bombe-preparation.
2906—BOMBE SUZANNE
_Clothe_ the mould with pink rum ice, and fill it with vanilla
Bombe-preparation, combined with Bar red-currant jam.
2907—BOMBE TORTONI
_Clothe_ the mould with _pralined_ ice, and fill it with coffee
Bombe-preparation, containing coffee seeds.
2908—BOMBE TOSCA
_Clothe_ the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Maraschino and
fruit Bombe-preparation. After turning out, decorate the Bombe with
lemon ice.
2909—BOMBE TROCADÉRO
_Clothe_ the mould with orange ice, combined with candied orange-rind,
cut into small dice; and fill with alternate layers of Chantilly
cream and roundels of filbert _Génoise_, cut in graduated sizes, and
saturated with Curaçao syrup. Sprinkle some orange-_zest_ dice on each
roundel of _Génoise_.
2910—BOMBE TUTTI-FRUTTI
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a lemon
Bombe-preparation, combined with various candied fruits, cut into dice.
2911—BOMBE A LA VALENÇAY
_Clothe_ the mould with _pralined_ ice, and fill it with Chantilly
cream, combined with raspberries.
2912—BOMBE VÉNITIENNE
_Clothe_ the mould half with vanilla and half with strawberry ice and
fill it with a Maraschino and Kirsch Bombe-preparation.
2913—BOMBE VICTORIA
_Clothe_ the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with Plombière ice.
2914—BOMBE ZAMORA
_Clothe_ the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Curaçao
Bombe-preparation.
=Iced Mousses.=
The composition for _mousses_ is prepared either from English cream or
from syrup. The last method is specially suited to fruit _mousses_.
2915—PREPARATION FOR ICED FRUIT MOUSSES
This is a cold syrup at 35°, to which is added an equal quantity of a
purée of the fruit under treatment, and twice that amount of very stiff
Chantilly cream.
2916—PREPARATION OF ICED MOUSSE WITH CREAM
Make an English cream from one lb. of powdered sugar, sixteen
egg-yolks, and one pint of milk, and leave it to cool.
When it is quite cold, add to it one pint of raw cream, two-thirds oz.
of powdered tragacanth gum, and the flavour which is to characterise
the preparation.
If the _mousse_ be a fruit one, add to it one pint of a purée of fresh
fruit.
Whisk over ice, until the preparation gets very frothy; put it into
moulds, lined with white paper; thoroughly close them, and keep them in
a refrigerator for two or three hours, subject to their size.
2917—VARIOUS ICED MOUSSES
After the same procedure, _mousses_ may be prepared with Anisette,
Coffee, Chocolate, Kirsch, Maraschino, Rum, Tea, etc.; Apricots,
Strawberries, Oranges and Tangerines, fresh Walnuts, Peaches, Vanilla,
Violets, etc.
2918—PARFAIT (Generic Recipe)
Mix thirty egg-yolks with one quart of cold syrup at 28°. Put the
mixture on a slow fire, and cook it as for an English cream; strain it,
and whisk it on ice until it is quite cold.
Add three pints of very stiff, whisked cream and one-fifth pint of
brandy or rum, in order to finish it; mould the preparation in Parfait
moulds, and pack them in a freezer for from two to three hours.
N.B.—The term “Parfait,” which, formerly, was applied only to “Parfait
au Café,” has become the common name for un-_clothed_ ices, made
from Bombe-preparations having but one flavour. And this is fairly
logical, seeing that Bombe-preparations, but for a few insignificant
distinctions, are exactly like Parfait-preparation.
It is therefore just as reasonable to make vanilla, chocolate, and
_pralined_ Parfaits, etc., as to make them with coffee.
2919—ICED PUDDINGS
Preparations of this class follow no hard and fast rules, and, in
reality, they are not ices at all. They are nothing else than iced
entremets, the bases of which generally consist of thick English
custard, the same as that which serves in the preparation of Bavarois.
The few following recipes, however, are exceptions to this rule.
2920—PUDDING DE CASTRIES
_Clothe_ a Bombe mould with a thin layer of vanilla ice-cream, and fill
it with two Bombe-preparations, spread in somewhat thick, alternate
layers. One of the preparations should be of vanilla, on each thickness
of which a layer of lady’s-finger biscuits, cut into dice and sprinkled
with Anisette, should be spread; and the other preparation should be of
tangerine.
Between the layers, sprinkle a few pinches of grated chocolate, and
fill up the mould with a thickness of vanilla ice-cream.
Thoroughly close the utensil; pack it for about two or three hours.
Turn it out on a folded napkin; sprinkle thereon a few red, crushed
_pralins_; and serve an iced tangerine syrup separately.
2921—MARIE-ROSE PUDDING
Line a Charlotte mould with rolled _gaufrettes_; placing them snugly
one against the other. By means of a piping-bag, fill the _gaufrettes_
with very stiff strawberry ice, and then fill the mould with a vanilla
_pralined_ Bombe-preparation. Keep the mould in the refrigerator for
three hours, and turn out the pudding on a napkin. Decorate it on
top with pink and white Chantilly cream. Serve a chocolate ice-cream
separately.
2922—PUDDING MIRAMAR
Garnish an iced, _Madeleine-mould_ with lady’s-finger biscuits,
saturated with Chartreuse, and alternate them with thin slices of fresh
pine-apple, saturated in Kirsch, and pipped sections of tangerine,
skinned raw.
Fill up the mould with a Bombe-preparation of pomegranate juice,
flavoured with Kirsch; close the mould, keep it in ice for two hours,
and turn out the pudding on a napkin when about to serve.
Serve an iced, vanilla syrup separately.
2923—PUDDING SEYMOUR
Cut a _Mousseline_ Brioche into thin slices, and set these to soak in
raw, sweetened and Kirsch-flavoured cream. Peel and finely slice some
peaches, and poach them in vanilla-flavoured syrup; also peel some very
ripe William pears.
Prepare a pink Bombe-preparation, flavoured with Kirsch and _Orgeat_;
and then fill up the mould with alternate layers of the slices
of Brioche and of fruit, with Bar red-currant jam added; and the
Bombe-preparation.
Close the mould, keep it in ice for two hours, and turn out the pudding
on a napkin.
2924—ICED SOUFFLÉES
The preparation differs according as to whether the _Soufflés_ be
prepared with fruit, or with such flavours as Vanilla, Coffee,
Chocolate, etc.
The last named are made with the Iced-_Mousse_ preparation (No. 2916),
which may also serve for the fruit _Soufflés_; but, in the case of the
latter, the following preparation is preferable:—
Whisk the whites of ten eggs to a very stiff froth, and add to this one
and one-tenth lbs. of sugar cooked to the _small-crack_ stage. Transfer
the whole to a basin; flavour according to fancy, and add one pint of a
purée of fruit and one pint of very stiffly-whisked cream.
2925—THE MOULDING OF LARGE AND SMALL ICED SOUFFLÉS
Mould the large ones in ordinary _Soufflé_ timbales, which should be
lined with bands of white paper, fixed with butter, and overreaching
the edges of the timbales by one and a half to two inches, that the
preparation, in projecting above the brims of the utensils, may appear
like a _Soufflé_ when the paper is removed.
The small _Soufflés_ are moulded in cases or in small silver
_cassolettes_, which are likewise wrapped in bands of paper, that the
preparation may rise above their brims. As soon as they are moulded,
put the _Soufflés_ in a very cold refrigerator; and when about to serve
them, carefully remove the bands of paper which, once the preparation
has solidified, have served their purpose; and dish the cases or silver
_cassolettes_ on a napkin or on a carved block of ice.
Like the Bombes, and the Iced Biscuits, Iced _Soufflés_ may be
indefinitely varied, owing to the multitudinous combinations to which
they lend themselves.
2926—SORBETS (Sherbets)
Sherbets and their derivative preparations consist of very light
and barely-congealed ices, served after the Entrées. They serve in
freshening the stomach; preparing it to properly receive the roast.
They are at once appetisers and helps to digestion.
2927—PREPARATION FOR SORBETS
Sherbets are made from any liqueur ice preparation at 15°; or they may
be prepared as follows:—For one quart of preparation, take the juice
of two lemons and one orange, half-a-pint of port wine, of Samos wine,
of Sauterne, or other good wine; and add cold syrup at 22°, until the
saccharometer registers 15°.
For liqueur sherbets, allow about one-fifth pint of liqueur per quart
of the preparation; but remember that this is subject to the kind of
liqueur used. For the quantity just prescribed, use syrup at 18° or
19°, which the subsequent addition of liqueur reduces to the proper
degree. Whatever be the kind of liqueur, the latter should only be
added when the Sherbet is completely frozen; that is to say at the last
moment.
Fruit Sorbets are generally prepared from the juices and syrups of
aqueous fruits. Fruit purées are scarcely suited to this mode of
procedure, and they are only resorted to in exceptional cases.
_The Freezing of Sherbets._—Pour the preparation into the turbine or
the freezer, which should have been previously packed, and keep the
utensil on the move. Remove portions of the preparation from the sides
of the receptacle as fast as they adhere thereto, and mix them with
the whole, until the latter is completely congealed; remembering not
to stir at all during the freezing process. When the preparation is
firm enough, mix with it, gently, the quarter of its weight of Italian
_meringue_ or very stiffly whipped cream; and finish by the addition of
the liqueur.
_The Dishing of Sherbets._—Take some of the Sherbet preparation in a
spoon, and set it in Sherbet or Sherry glasses, shaping it to a point.
When the Sherbet is prepared with wine, sprinkle the preparation when
it is in the glasses with a tablespoonful of the selected wine.
The consistence of a Sherbet, of what kind soever, should be such as to
allow of its being drunk.
2928—VARIOUS SORBETS
Having pointed out that Sherbets may be prepared from the juices of
every fruit such as Pine-apple, Cherries, Strawberries, Raspberries,
Red-currants, etc., and from every wine and liqueur such as Port, Samos
wine, Marsala, Johannisberg, Rum, Kirsch, Liqueur-Brandy, etc., and
since the procedure is the same in every case, there is no need to
devote a special article to each.
2929—SORBET A LA SICILIENNE
Keep a very green water melon in the refrigerator for three hours.
One hour before serving, open it on top, as directed under “Surprise
Melon,” and withdraw the seeds.
Then, detach the pulp by means of a silver spoon, without withdrawing
it from the fruit; sprinkle it with Maraschino, and put the whole back
into the refrigerator.
Dish on fragmented ice or on a block of the latter, and serve the pulp
before the diners in Sherbet glasses.
2930—GRANITÉS
Granités answer the same purpose as Sherbets, while they may also be
introduced into certain culinary preparations.
The bases of these preparations consist of very thin syrups made from
fruit juices, and not overreaching fourteen degrees (saccharometer).
Granités consist only of iced syrups, and are not combined with any
Italian or other _meringue_.
As in the case of the Sherbets, but more particularly in regard to
these, the operator should remember not to stir the syrup during the
freezing process, lest it turn; and, when it is congealed, it should
form a light, granulated mass.
2931—MARQUISES
Marquises are generally made from strawberries or pine-apple, with
Kirsch. The preparation is that of a Sherbet with Kirsch, registering
17° by the saccharometer. The freezing is done as for Granités; but it
should be carried a little further.
When about to serve, mix the preparation per pint thereof with half
a pint of very stiff Chantilly cream, combined with a strawberry or
pine-apple purée, subject to the designation of the Marquise.
2932—PUNCH A LA ROMAINE
Mix sufficient dry white wine, or dry champagne, with one pint of syrup
at 22°, to reduce the latter to 17°; add the juice of two oranges
and two lemons, a strip of orange and lemon _zest_, and let infusion
proceed for one hour.
Strain the syrup and bring it to 18°.
Freeze in the freezer, until it is somewhat stiff, and mix it with
the quarter of its volume of Italian _meringue_ (prepared from two
egg-whites and three and a half oz. of sugar).
When about to serve, complete with one-fifth pint of Rum, added little
by little.
Serve the preparation in glasses, after the style of the Sherbets.
N.B.—For all Sherbets and Punches, one quart of the finished
preparation should be allowed for every ten people.
2933—SPOOMS
Spoom is a kind of Sherbet prepared from a syrup at 20°. Add to it
twice as much Italian _meringue_ as was added to the Sherbets. Do not
work it too briskly, that it may remain very light and frothy.
Spooms are made from fruit juices; but more often from such wines as
Champagne, Samos, Muscat, Zucco, etc.
Serve it in glasses like the Sherbets.