=Entremets (Sweets)=
Pastry, Confectionery, and Ices are so closely allied to Cookery, and
they are so surely its complements, that it is impossible to omit them
when dealing with Entremets, even though the latter be limited to the
kind proper to the kitchen.
However, these subjects, which could supply matter for voluminous
works, are too complex for it to be possible to cope thoroughly with
them here.
I shall therefore confine myself to the expounding of their fundamental
principles and the essential operations relating thereto, a knowledge
of which is absolutely necessary for the successful preparation
of Kitchen Entremets and Ices. The directions given hereafter
are certainly too inadequate to convert an ordinary cook into a
pastry-cook, a confectioner, or a “glacier”; but they will at least
admit of his carrying out a complete dinner, if the necessity so to do
should occur.
=Elementary Preparations of Pastry which may be Applied to Entremets=
2338—VARIOUS ALMOND PREPARATIONS
It is important that one should have skinned, splintered, and chopped
almonds.
_To Skin Almonds._—Throw them in a saucepan of boiling water, place
the utensil on the side of the fire without allowing the boiling to
continue, and let the almonds soak for seven or eight minutes. As soon
as the skin slips when pressing them between one’s fingers, turn them
out on to a strainer; cool them in cold water, and skin them. This
done, wash them in cold water; drain them well; spread them on a very
clean tray, and dry them in a mild oven.
_Splintered Almonds._—Having skinned and washed the almonds, split them
in two, and cut each half into five or six splinters. Dry the latter in
the drying-box, and place them in the front of the oven for a while to
colour slightly.
They serve for nougat, and sometimes take the place of pignolis.
_Chopped Almonds._—Having skinned the almonds, slightly dry them and
chop them with a knife; rub them through a canvas sieve, the coarseness
of which should be in accordance with that required for the chopped
almonds.
Spread the latter on a tray covered with a sheet of paper, and dry them
in the drying-box, stirring them from time to time the while.
_Grilled Almonds._—These are either splintered or chopped almonds set
to bake on a tray in a moderate oven. Be sure to stir them frequently,
that they may colour evenly, and withdraw them when they are of a nice
golden shade.
_Pralined Almonds._—Proceed as for grilled almonds, but sprinkle them
frequently with icing sugar, which turns to caramel under the influence
of the heat of the oven, and swathes the almonds in a pale-brown coat
of sugar.
2339—VARIOUS PREPARATIONS OF FILBERTS AND HAZEL-NUTS
Filberts are a large kind of hazel-nut, generally covered with red
skins.
After having cracked and suppressed the shells, set the filberts on a
dish, and place them in the front of the oven until their skins are
slightly grilled. They need then only be rubbed between the fingers
in order to clear them of their skins. Chopped filberts are prepared
like chopped almonds, and should be included in the permanent “_mise en
place_” of the pastry cook.
2340—VARIOUS BUTTERS
_Softened Butter._—More particularly in winter, when it is very hard,
butter should be softened, _i.e._, thoroughly kneaded in a towel, to:—
1. Extract the butter-milk, which is always present in more or less
large quantities.
2. Make it sufficiently soft to mix with the various ingredients of
which the pastes are made up.
_Pomaded Butter._—After having well softened it as above, put it in a
bowl or basin, previously rinsed with hot water and thoroughly wiped.
Work the butter with a spatula or a wooden spoon until it acquires the
consistence of a pomade—a necessary condition for certain of its uses.
_Clarified Butter._—In pastry, clarified butter is used more especially
for the buttering of moulds. Put the butter to be clarified into a
saucepan, and cook it over a very slow fire until (1) the caseous
substances liberated in the cooking process have accumulated and
solidified on the bottom of the saucepan; (2) it appears limpid, of a
golden colour, and exhales a slight, nutty smell.
Strain it through muslin, and put it aside until required.
2341—THE BUTTERING AND GLAZING OF MOULDS
All moulds, large and small, should be buttered so as to ensure the
easy turning-out of cakes cooked in them. Clarified butter, owing to
its purity, is the best for the purpose. It may be applied with a
brush, care being taken that all the inside surfaces get uniformly
covered with it. One unbuttered spot is sufficient to make a moulding
stick, or to completely spoil a cake.
For certain cakes, chopped or splintered almonds are sprinkled
in the mould. For others, especially biscuits, the moulds are
flour-dusted—that is to say, a veil of very dry flour or fecula is
allowed to settle on the layer of butter, which, at the turning out,
appears like a glazed crust upon the cake.
2342—HOW TO BEAT THE WHITES OF EGGS
The best utensil for the purpose is a copper or nickel basin in which
the whisk may act at all points owing to the spherical shape of the
receptacle. Tinned or enamelled utensils set up a kind of greasiness
which does not allow of one’s bringing the whites to the stiffness
necessary for some purposes.
Begin whisking the whites gently, and draw them up with the whisk until
all their molecules have disaggregated and they begin to stiffen. They
may then be whisked until they are sufficiently stiff to be taken up
bodily by the whisk.
_Preventive Means._—To facilitate the beating of whites of eggs, there
may be added to them at the start a pinch either of salt or alum per
ten whites. When, towards the close of the operation, the whites begin
to granulate, owing to any one of the various causes, add immediately
one tablespoonful of powdered sugar per ten whites, and then whisk
briskly, to restore them to their normal state.
2343—VEGETABLE COLOURING MATTERS
Every pastry-cook’s stock should include a series of vegetable
colouring matters, comprising carmine, liquid spinach green, yellow, &c.
When required, the blending of these colours yields the intermediate
tones. The colours may be bought.
2344—THE COOKING OF SUGAR
From the state of syrup to the most highly-concentrated state in which
it is used in pastry sugar passes through various stages of cooking,
which are:—The small thread (215° F.) and the large thread (222° F.),
the small ball (236° F.) and the large ball (248° F.), the small
crack (285° F.) and the large crack (315° F.). When the last state is
overreached, the sugar has become caramel (360° F.).
Put the necessary quantity of loaf sugar in a small, copper saucepan;
moisten with enough water to melt it, and boil. Carefully remove the
scum which forms, and which might cause the sugar to granulate.
As soon as the sugar begins to move stiffly in boiling, it is a sign
that the water has almost entirely evaporated, and that the real
cooking of the sugar has begun.
From this moment, with moistened fingers or a little piece of moistened
linen, take care to remove the crystallised sugar from the sides of the
utensil, lest it makes the remaining portion turn.
The cooking of the sugar then progresses very rapidly, and the states
of its various stages, coming one upon the other in quick succession at
intervals of a few minutes, may be ascertained as follows:—
It has reached the _small-thread stage_, when a drop of it held between
the thumb and the first finger forms small resistless strings when the
thumb and finger are drawn apart.
It has reached the _large-thread stage_, when, proceeding in the same
way, the strings formed between the parted finger and thumb are more
numerous and stronger.
From this moment recourse must be had to cold water in order to
ascertain the states of the sugar.
When a few minutes have elapsed after the test for the large-thread
state, dip the end of the first finger, first into cold water, then
into the sugar, and plunge it again immediately into the bowl of cold
water, which should be ready at hand. The sugar taken from the finger
forms a kind of soft ball, and it is this state which is called the
_small ball_.
When, upon repeating the procedure, the sugar removed from the finger
rolls into a firmer ball, the _large-ball stage_ is reached.
After the cooking has continued for a few seconds longer, the sugar
lying on the finger peels off in the form of a thin, flexible film,
which sticks to the teeth. This is the _small-crack stage_. Tests
should then be made in quick succession, until the film taken from the
end of the finger breaks “clean” in the teeth, like glass. This is the
_large-crack state_, the last of the cooking stages, and as soon as it
has been reached the utensil should be taken off the fire, lest a few
seconds more turn the sugar to _caramel_.
To prevent the granulating of the sugar, a few drops of lemon juice may
be added to it; or, better still, a tablespoonful of glucose per lb.
2345—GLACE A L’ANCIENNE
Put the required amount of icing sugar in a small saucepan, the
quantity used being in proportion to the object to be glazed.
If it be flavoured with vanilla, orange, or lemon, dilute it with a
little water, keeping it somewhat stiff; add some vanilla-flavoured
sugar or grated orange-rind, and stir it up well for a few minutes.
Then make it lukewarm, so that it may run easily and dry quickly, and
pour it over the object to be treated.
For the above-mentioned flavours, an infusion of vanilla or orange-rind
may be prepared, and this may serve in diluting the glaze. The flavours
may also be used in the form of essences, provided it be remembered
that they are usually very strong thus, and must be used with caution.
If liqueur glazes are in question, such as Kirsch, Rum, Anisette, or
Marasquin, &c., the glaze is diluted with the liqueur and made lukewarm
as directed above.
2346—GLACE AU FONDANT
_Preparation of the “Fondant.”_—Put some loaf sugar into a small
saucepan, the quantity being in accordance with the amount of “Fondant”
required.
Moisten with just enough water to melt the sugar, and set to cook as
directed under “The Cooking of Sugar.”
Stop the cooking precisely at 230° F. between the _large-thread stage_
and the _small-ball stage_, and pour the sugar on a moderately-oiled
marble slab. Let it half cool for a few minutes; then, with a spatula,
move it about well in all directions, taking care that no portion of
the sugar on the marble is left untouched by the spatula, for any such
portion would harden and form lumps in the Fondant.
After ten to fifteen minutes’ work with the spatula, the sugar should
have become a white, slightly granulated paste. Heap the latter
together, and scrape the marble slab with the blade of a strong knife.
Carefully knead this paste (No. 2357) with the palm of the hand until
it is very thin and smooth, whereupon the Fondant is ready for use.
It need now only be heaped in a receptacle, covered with a damp cloth,
and kept somewhat dry.
_To Glaze with “Fondant.”_—Put the required amount of it into a
saucepan; work it over a slow fire for a while, in order to soften it,
and moisten it, little by little, with water when a dry flavour or an
essence is used, or, otherwise, with the selected liqueur.
Warm slightly in order to make the glaze very liquid and to ensure its
speedy drying, and pour it, at one tilt, over the object to be glazed.
With the help of some colour, the glaze is generally given the tint of
the fruit which flavours it.
2346a—SUCRE EN GLACE (Icing Sugar)
This is sugar strained through a silken drum-sieve. The sugar strained
through this silk has the delicacy of starch. At times it is used
instead of Fondant for the glazing of cakes, but it is mostly used for
white and caramel glazings. For this purpose the sugar is held in a
tin box, covered with a lid pierced with small holes, called a sugar
dredger.
To _glaze white_ is to cover a cake, a fritter, or other object with a
coat of icing sugar. This operation is effected by shaking the sugar
dredger over the object to be glazed.
_To glaze with caramel_ is to cover a _Soufflé_, a _souffléd_ omelet,
fruit fritters, a custard, _Pannequets_, or other objects with a coat
of icing sugar. By placing the sugar-coated object in fierce heat,
a few minutes suffice to melt the sugar, which is converted into a
brilliant covering of caramel.
2347—SUGAR GRAINS
These are used in pastry to border certain cakes, or to surround the
sugared-paste bases on which cakes are set. For this purpose the parts
to which the sugar is expected to adhere must be besmeared with cooked
apricot.
To make them, roughly pound some loaf sugar, and sift the latter first
through a coarse strainer, and then through a finer one, according
to the size the sugar grains are required to be. The powder will, of
course, fall and leave the grains clean.
2348—COLOURED SUGAR GRAINS
To colour sugar grains, spread them on a piece of paper, and add a
drop of liquid vegetable-colouring or a very little coloured paste per
tablespoonful of sugar. The amount of colouring matter may either be
lessened or increased, according to the strength the shade is required
to be.
Rub the sugar in the hand to colour it evenly; dry it in a moderately
warm drying-box, and keep it in the dry in well-closed boxes.
2349—VANILLA SUGAR
The vanilla sticks which have served in preparing infusions still
possess some flavour. Reserve them, therefore, for the making of
vanilla sugar.
After having gently dried them in the drying-box, finely pound them
with twice their weight of loaf sugar; sift through a silken sieve, and
again pound the bits remaining on the silk of the sieve until every
particle goes through. Keep the preparation in a well-closed box in the
dry.
2350—CANDIED FRUIT
These are used in the decoration of certain cakes, and as the
constituent ingredients of others.
They comprise angelica, golden and green _chinois_, cherries, plums,
red and white pears, &c.
Candied fruit may be bought ready-prepared.
2351—APPLE JELLY FOR DECORATING
Quarter, peel, and core the apples (preferably russets), and throw
them, one by one, in a bowl of fresh water to prevent their getting
brown.
Then put them in a copper basin with one and one-half pints of water
per two lbs. of apples, and cook them gently without touching them.
This done, pour away their juice, and return it to the basin together
with two lbs. of sugar per quart. Boil; skim with great care, that the
jelly may be clear, and cook over a fierce fire until the jelly has
reached a stage which may be ascertained thus:—(1) When on taking the
skimmer out of the basin, the jelly adhering to it seems to mass itself
towards the middle of the skimmer; or:—(2) When the jelly breaks up
into large drops, separated one from the other.
Then take the jelly off the fire; add some carmine to it, drop by drop,
until it acquires a rosy hue; strain it again through a fine piece of
linen, that it may be perfectly limpid, and finally pour it into tin
receptacles to cool.
Put aside until wanted.
2352—PRALIN
(1) If it be for the purpose of covering certain cakes, or for forming
a glaze on a fruit entremet, prepare it thus:—Put the whites of two
eggs and three tablespoonfuls of icing sugar in a small basin. Mix
and stir briskly with a small, wooden spoon, until the paste becomes
somewhat thick. Then, subject to the purpose for which it is intended,
add a more or less large quantity of chopped almonds, according as to
whether the pralin be required thick or slightly liquid for spreading.
Cover it with a piece of white paper, moistened with white of egg, that
it may remain moist if kept for some time.
(2) If it is to be added to a _soufflé_ preparation, to a _souffléd_
omelet, to a preparation of ice, or to a custard, it is a nougat powder
which is prepared as follows:—
Gently melt one lb. of powdered sugar in a small saucepan, taking care
not to let it acquire a deeper shade than old gold. Mix twenty oz.
of dried almonds with it; turn the whole out on to the corner of a
slightly-oiled marble slab (or on an overturned saucepan-lid), and
leave to cool. When the nougat is quite cold, pound it and rub it
through a sieve.
Pound and rub what remains in the sieve until the whole goes through.
Put the powder in a well-closed box, and place the latter in a dry
place.
2353—CURRANTS AND SULTANAS
Sultanas and currants should always be at hand, ready and cleaned. To
clean them, first dredge them and then rub them in a towel, closed
to form a sort of purse. Now, turn them into a sieve or colander,
which shake vigorously, that the flour and the detached stems may be
eliminated; then examine them, one by one, to make sure that no stems
remain.
Currants should be examined with very particular care, as small stones
often get in among them.
Put the currants and the sultanas aside, each in a box or a drawer.
2354—ESSENCES AND FLAVOURINGS
The various essences used in pastry are bought ready-made. The
flavourings consist of those products treated by infusion, such as
vanilla; of grated or infused products, such as lemon and orange rinds;
and liqueurs in general.
Fruit juices only become flavours when a liqueur in keeping with the
fruit from which they were extracted has been added to them.
2355—GILDING PREPARATION
This consists of beaten eggs. Its purpose is to ensure the colouration
of certain cakes, whereon it is smeared by means of a brush. In some
cases this gilding may be combined with a little water, as, for
instance, when the heat of the oven is too fierce, and cakes are
required of a light colour. In some cases, especially in that of small,
dry cakes, it consists entirely of egg-yolks diluted with a few drops
of water.
=The Pastes=
2356—ORDINARY SHORT PASTE
Sift one lb. of flour over the mixing-board; make a hollow in its
midst, and put therein one-sixth oz. of salt, one-third pint of cold
water, and one-half lb. of butter well softened—especially in winter.
Mix the flour gradually with the butter and the water; mass the whole a
moment or two, and knead it (see No. 2357) twice. Then roll it up in a
ball; wrap it in a piece of linen that its surface may not dry, and put
it aside in the cool.
_Remarks_: A kneaded paste should be prepared either one day, or
at least a few hours, in advance, in order that it may lose that
elasticity which it acquires from the kneading.
Pastes, after they have rested awhile, are much more easily treated,
and bake a much more definite and lighter colour, than those that are
used as soon as they are prepared.
2357—THE KNEADING OF PASTES
The object of kneading paste is to combine the ingredients of which it
is composed thoroughly, and also to smooth it. Proceed as follows:—
When the paste is mixed, roll it into a mass; put it in front of one;
then press it away from one, little by little, between the board and
the palm of the hand. For the paste to be perfectly smooth, it ought to
be treated twice in this way.
2358—FINE, SHORT OR FLAWN PASTE (For Fruit Tarts)
Sift one lb. of flour on to the mixing-board, and hollow it out.
Put in the hollow one-third oz. of salt, one and one-half oz. of
powdered sugar, an egg, one-fourth pint of cold water, and ten oz. of
butter. First, thoroughly mix the butter, the egg, the water, and the
seasoning, and then gradually combine the flour with it.
Knead the paste; press it out twice; roll it into a ball, and wrap it
up as before with the view of setting it aside in the cool to rest.
2359—DRESSING PASTE (Pâte à Pâté)
Take one lb. of sifted flour, four oz. of butter, one egg,
one-third oz. of salt, and one-fourth pint of water. Mix as already
directed; knead twice; roll up the paste, and set it in the cool to
rest. This paste should be kept somewhat firm.
2360—DRESSING PASTE WITH LARD
Take one lb. of sifted flour, four oz. of lard, one-quarter pint of
tepid water, one egg, one-third oz. of salt, and proceed exactly as in
the case of No. 2359.
2361—DUMPLING AND PUDDING PASTES
Break up ten oz. of very dry beef suet, and carefully clear it of all
little pieces of skin and connective tissue. Chop it up as finely as
possible; sift one lb. of flour on to the mixing-board; hollow it out;
and put into the hollow one-half oz. of salt, one and one-half oz. of
sugar, one-third pint of water, and the chopped suet. Mix up these
various ingredients, and, by degrees, combine the flour with them.
Mass the paste together, without kneading it, and put it aside in the
cool until it is wanted.
2362—DRY SUGARED PASTE FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES
Take one lb. of sifted flour, seven oz. of butter, five oz. of powdered
sugar, three eggs, and one-half tablespoonful of orange-flower water.
Mix in the usual way, knead it twice; roll it into a ball, and keep it
wrapped up, in the cool, until required.
2363—PASTE FOR SMALL GUMMED TEA-CAKES
Take one lb. of sifted flour, ten oz. of butter, ten oz. of sugar, one
egg, the yolks of four, and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water.
Mix up gradually; mass the paste together, and roll it out into a thin
layer, twice. Roll it up, and let it rest awhile in the cool before it
is used.
2364—GUMMING
In the case of certain small cakes, especially those served at tea, it
is usual to gum their surfaces in order to make them glossy. For this
purpose a thin solution of gum arabic is used, and it is smeared over
the cakes as they leave the oven, by means of a small brush.
Cakes may also be gummed with a syrup formed from milk and sugar, which
mixture may be used instead of gum arabic with advantage.
2365—GALETTE PASTE
Hollow out one lb. of sifted flour and put in its midst one-third oz.
of salt, two oz. of powdered sugar, one-quarter pint of water, and
one-half lb. of softened butter.
Mix, taking care to include the flour only by degrees; thoroughly
knead, that the ingredients may be well combined, and mass the paste
together without making it too elastic. Leave it to rest in the cool
for at least an hour; then roll it out thrice, at intervals of eight
minutes, for the reasons given under the directions for puff-paste.
2366—PUFF-PASTE
(1) Sift one lb. of flour on to the mixing-board. Make a hollow in it,
and put therein one-third oz. of table salt and about one-half pint of
cold water, and mix without kneading. Mass the paste together, and let
it rest for twenty minutes, that it may lose its elasticity, which will
be all the more pronounced for its having been very much worked. It
is to avoid this elasticity, therefore, that the mixing of puff-paste
should be effected with the smallest amount of kneading possible.
(2) Spread the prepared paste on a flour-dusted board, in the shape of
an even galette. Spread thereon one lb. of softened butter, without
completely covering the paste; draw the edges of the paste towards the
centre, in such wise as to enclose the butter completely, and to form a
square thickness of paste.
(3) Leave to rest for a further ten minutes and then begin the working
of the paste; rolling it out to the length of one and one-half feet,
and keeping it one in. thick. Fold this layer over thrice, and press
upon it with the roller so as to join the superposed layers. The whole
of this operation constitutes one turn.
Begin another turn immediately, turning the paste the reverse way,
and folding it as before. Set it to rest in the cool for eight or ten
minutes, and then effect two more turns.
Ten minutes after the two last turns (there should be six in all), the
puff-paste is ready to be cut up and used.
_Remarks relative to puff-paste_: Good puff-paste should be buttered
to the extent of one lb. per one and one-half lbs., _i.e._, one lb. of
butter for every one lb. of flour mixed with one-half pint of water.
The consistence of the paste and the butter should be exactly the same,
if they are to be evenly mixed; the butter ought therefore to be
softened—more particularly in winter.
In preparing puff-paste, remember to put it in a cool place while it
is resting; but never directly upon ice; for, though the ice would not
affect the paste, it might seriously affect the butter.
It would harden it to the extent of preventing its perfect mixture
with the mass, and lumps would form. Puff-paste should be rolled out
very regularly, with the view of thoroughly distributing the butter
throughout the preparation, and thus ensuring its uniform rising.
Puff-paste should not be worked too speedily; for, if it be so worked,
it will be found to acquire an elasticity which not only makes it
difficult to cut up, but also tends to make it shrink in the baking.
2367—PUFF-PASTE TRIMMINGS OR HALF PUFF-PASTE
These are very useful in pastry work, for tartlets, _barquettes_,
_croûtons_, &c. When the puff-paste is cut up, the trimmings
should therefore be rolled into a ball, and put aside in the cool.
Nevertheless they must be used within the space of two days in summer
and four days in winter.
2368—ORDINARY BRIOCHE PASTE
(1) Sift one lb. of flour on to the board; take a quarter of it, make a
hollow in it, and put therein one-quarter oz. of very fresh, dry yeast.
Mix the yeast and the flour with a little tepid water, so as to obtain
a soft paste which is the leaven. Roll this paste into a ball; make two
slits in its top, at right angles to one another, and place it in a
small basin.
Cover the latter, and put it in a somewhat warm place, that the leaven
may be sure to ferment.
(2) Make a hollow in the remaining flour, and put into it
one-quarter oz. of salt, and one and one-half oz. of sugar, together
with two tablespoonfuls of milk to melt it, one-third of the whole
amount of the butter to be used, namely, four oz., and four eggs.
Begin by thoroughly mixing the butter, eggs and seasoning, and then
combine the flour therewith, by degrees. When the paste forms a
compact mass, knead and pull it about with the hands, that it may be
light. When, at the end of a few minutes, it has acquired a certain
resilience, make a hole in the middle of it and add one egg. Mix the
latter with the paste; work it afresh, and after an interval of two
minutes add one more egg in the same way. The total number of eggs for
the quantities of other ingredients given above should be six.
(3) Add the remaining butter (eight oz.) to the paste; the former being
_manied_ and even softened, just sufficiently to make it of the same
consistence as the paste.
Spread it on the latter, and mix the two; kneading small portions at
a time, and combining those portions so as to mix the two elements
completely.
At this stage, overturn the paste and spread the leaven (which should
now be equal to twice its original bulk) upon it.
Mix it well as in the case of the butter, without working the paste.
Finally, put the paste into a basin; cover it, and place it in a
temperate room.
For it to have the desired lightness, this paste should ferment for
from ten to twelve hours. However, at the end of five or six hours, the
process is arrested by the working of the paste; that is to say, by
turning it out upon a flour-dusted board and beating it with the palm
of the hand.
It is then returned to the basin to ferment afresh, for five or six
hours; and then it is once more beaten just before being used.
2369—MOUSSELINE BRIOCHE PASTE
_Mousseline_ brioche paste is made from the ordinary kind, combined
with a little butter and developed in the mould by fermentation before
the baking process—which procedure makes it exceedingly light and
delicate.
This paste is used in the preparation of certain timbales for fruit
sweets, and it is prepared as follows:—
Take the required amount of ordinary brioche paste, and add to it,
per lb. of paste, two oz. of best butter, softened to the consistence
of an ointment, that it may thoroughly mix with the paste. Roll the
paste into a ball, and put it in a liberally-buttered mould, only
filling two-thirds of the latter with it. The remaining third of the
mould gets filled by the rising of the paste. Place the mould in a
temperate room, until the paste has risen to the edges of the mould;
besmear the surface of the paste with a brush dipped in melted butter,
and bake in a moderate oven.
2370—ORDINARY BRIOCHE PASTE (For Rissoles, Small Patties à la Dauphine,
and Various other Preparations)
_Quantities_: one lb. of flour, seven oz. of butter, four fair-sized
eggs, salt, a pinch of powdered sugar; one-third oz. of very dry, fresh
yeast, and a little tepid milk.
(1) Make the leaven with a quarter of the flour, the yeast and the
lukewarm milk, and set it to ferment while the paste is being prepared.
(2) Prepare the paste as already directed, and keep it fermenting as
before for ten hours, taking care to arrest the process once.
The work is the same as in the preceding case, in every particular,
except in regard to the amount of butter, which in this instance is
only half as much; in regard to the amount of sugar, which should only
be just sufficient to ensure the colouring of the paste; and finally in
regard to its firmness, which should admit of the paste being worked
with a rolling-pin.
2371—SAVARIN PASTE
_Quantities_: One lb. of flour; twelve oz. of butter; one-half oz.
of very dry, fresh yeast; eight eggs; about one-third pint of milk;
one-half oz. of salt, and one oz. of sugar.
_Procedure_: Savarin paste may be prepared in several ways; but the one
given below is as simple and expeditious as could be desired.
Sift the flour into a basin (or a round wooden bowl, better suited to
the work); hollow it out; add the yeast, and dissolve the latter by
means of tepid milk, stirring slightly with the tip of the finger.
Add the eggs; mix the whole; work the paste by hand for a few minutes;
detach those portions of it which have adhered to the side of the
utensil, and add them to the whole.
Distribute the softened butter in small quantities over the paste.
Cover, and place in a temperate room until the paste has grown to
twice its original bulk. Then add salt; knead the paste, that it
may thoroughly absorb the butter, and pat it briskly until it is
sufficiently elastic to be taken up in one lump.
At this stage add the sugar, and work the paste again that the former
may thoroughly mix with it. The sugar should only be added at the close
of the operation; for, since it impairs the cohesiveness of the paste,
it would render the latter much more difficult to work were it added at
the start.
THE USES OF THIS PASTE
If it be for Savarins with syrup, it is customary to sprinkle the
previously-buttered moulds with slightly-grilled, chopped or splintered
almonds. Take the paste in small quantities at a time, and line the
moulds with it to the extent of one-third of their height.
The remaining two-thirds of each mould become covered when the paste
rises owing to fermentation.
Proceed in the same way for Savarins which are to be kept dry, for
fruit crusts or other uses; but then the sprinkling of the moulds with
almond may be omitted.
2372—PÂTE A BABA
_Quantities_: One lb. of flour; one-half lb. of butter; seven eggs;
two-thirds oz. of yeast; one-fifth pint of milk; one-third oz. of salt;
two-thirds oz. of sugar; three oz. of currants and sultanas in equal
quantities.
_Procedure_: Proceed exactly as for Savarin paste, and add the currants
and sultanas at the last with the sugar. In moulding, a few pipped
Malaga raisins may be laid on the bottom of the moulds. As in the case
of the Savarin, the paste should only fill one-third of the mould.
2373—ORDINARY PÂTE A CHOUX
_Quantities._—One pint of water; eight oz. of butter; one-third oz. of
salt; one oz. of sugar; one lb. of sifted flour; sixteen fair-sized
eggs, and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water.
_Procedure._—Put the water, butter, salt, and sugar in a saucepan and
boil. When the liquid boils and rises, take the saucepan off the fire;
add the flour, and mix. Return the saucepan to a moderate fire, and
stir the paste until it ceases to stick to the spoon, and the butter
begins to ooze slightly.
Take the saucepan off the fire; add the eggs, two at a time, taking
care to mix each couple thoroughly with the paste before inserting the
succeeding couple. When all the eggs have been absorbed, finish the
paste with orange-flower water.
2374—COMMON PÂTE A CHOUX (For Souffléd Fritters, Gnochi, Potatoes à la
Dauphine)
Proceed as directed above, but reduce the quantity of butter to
three oz., and the number of eggs to twelve; avoid drying this paste
overmuch.
2375—RAMEQUINS AND GOUGÈRE PASTE
This is prepared exactly like ordinary “Pâte à Choux,” except that:—
1. Milk takes the place of water.
2. The sugar and orange-flower water are omitted.
3. For the quantities given (No. 2373), eight oz. of fresh Gruyère, cut
into dice, are added to the paste, after all the eggs have been added
to it.
2376—PÂTE A GÉNOISE FINE
Put into a copper basin one lb. of powdered sugar and sixteen eggs. Mix
the two; place the basin upon hot cinders or on the hob, and whisk its
contents until they reach the _“ribbon” stage_ (see remarks below).
Then add the selected aroma (vanilla sugar, orange rind, or liqueur, in
the proportion of one tablespoonful of vanilla sugar or orange rind,
and one liqueur-glass of liqueur, to the quantities given above),
twelve oz. of sifted flour, and eight oz. of melted butter, the latter
being carefully poured into the paste without allowing it to bubble.
Mix these ingredients with the paste, raising the latter by means of a
spatula that it may not get heavy.
Bake it in buttered and dredged moulds.
_Remarks._—A preparation of Biscuit or _Génoise_ reaches the _“ribbon”
stage_ when it becomes thick, draws out in ribbon-form, and takes some
time to level itself again when a spoon is pulled out of it. This state
of the paste is also indicative of its lightness.
2377—ORDINARY GÉNOISE PASTE FOR CUTTING UP
_Quantities._—One lb. of sugar, twelve eggs, thirteen oz. of flour,
eight oz. of butter, and the quantity of flavouring thought sufficient.
Proceed exactly as in the preceding recipe, in everything pertaining to
the working of the paste.
This paste is baked in buttered and dredged cases, in which it is
spread in layers one and one-quarter inches thick, that it may rise to
about one and three-quarter inches thick, while baking.
2378—LADY’S-FINGER BISCUIT PASTE
Stir one lb. of sugar and sixteen egg-yolks in a basin until the
preparation has whitened slightly and has reached the _ribbon_
stage. Now add a tablespoonful of orange-flower water; mix therewith
twelve oz. of sifted flour, followed by sixteen egg-whites, whisked to
a stiff froth. Take care to effect the mixture by raising and cutting
the preparation with the spatula, that the former may be quite light.
_To Shape the Biscuits._—Put the paste, little by little, into a canvas
piping-bag, fitted with a pipe of one-half inch bore. Close the bag;
lay the biscuits on sheets of strong paper; sprinkle them with powdered
sugar, and rid them of any superfluous sugar by holding the sheets end
upwards.
Jerk a few drops of water upon the biscuits by means of a moistened
brush in order to assist the beading of the sugar, and remember that a
very moderate oven is the best for the effecting of this beading.
2379—SAVOY-BISCUIT PASTE
Stir one lb. of sugar and fourteen egg-yolks in a basin until the
preparation reaches the _ribbon_ stage. Flavour with vanilla sugar; add
six oz. of very dry, sifted flour mixed with six oz. of fecula, and
finally mix therewith the fourteen egg-whites, which should be in a
very stiff froth.
Carefully set the preparation in buttered and fecula-dredged moulds,
filling the latter only two-thirds full, and leaving the remaining
third to be covered by the rising of the paste while baking.
Bake in a regular, moderate oven.
2380—PÂTE A BISCUIT MANQUE
Stir one lb. of sugar with eighteen egg-yolks in a basin until the
preparation is white and light. Add three tablespoonfuls of rum,
thirteen oz. of sifted flour, and ten oz. of melted butter, carefully
poured away. Mix, raising it with the spatula in so doing.
Set the preparation in special buttered and dredged moulds, filling the
latter only two-thirds full with it. Bake in a moderate oven.
2381—PUNCH BISCUIT PASTE
Stir one lb. of sugar, twelve egg-yolks, and three eggs in a basin,
until the whole becomes frothy. Aromatise with a bare tablespoonful of
orange sugar, the same amount of lemon sugar, and three tablespoonfuls
of best rum, and add twelve oz. of sifted flour, ten oz. of melted
butter, and the whites of eight eggs whisked to a stiff froth. Mix with
the usual precautions, that the paste may not be heavy.
Bake the preparation in buttered moulds, in cases or in rings,
according to the purpose it is intended for. Use a moderate oven.
2382—ORDINARY MERINGUE
Whisk the whites of eight eggs until they are as stiff as it is
possible to make them. Sprinkle them with one lb. of powdered sugar,
and mix them with the latter carefully, that they may retain all their
lightness.
2383—MERINGUE A L’ITALIENNE
Cook one lb. of sugar to the _large-ball_ stage, and meanwhile whisk
the whites of eight eggs to a stiff froth, so as to have them ready
simultaneously with the sugar.
Pour the cooked sugar into the egg-whites, slowly and without a pause,
and mix up briskly with the whisk.
2384—MERINGUE A L’ITALIENNE (another recipe)
Mix one lb. of very best powdered sugar and the whites of eight eggs
in an untinned copper basin. Place the utensil on hot cinders or on
the side of the stove, that the preparation may be lukewarm while in
progress.
Whisk the meringue until it is sufficiently consistent to span the
members of the whisk. If it is not to be used at once, transfer the
paste to a small basin; cover it with a round piece of paper, and set
it in the cool.
2385—ALMOND PASTE
Instead of the antiquated and difficult method of making almond pastes
in the mortar, a crushing machine is now used which not only yields
a much smoother paste, but also greatly simplifies the work. Almond
paste, which consists of almonds, sugar, and egg-whites, in quantities
varying in accordance with the purpose of the paste, is now sold
ready-made. It has only to be finished with a little sugar, white of
egg, and other things, subject to the use to which it is to be put.
2386—MELTING ALMOND PASTE (For Stuffing and Imitating Fruit)
Pass eight oz. of dry, skinned almonds through the crusher.
Place them in the mortar, together with the selected aromatic essence;
either a tablespoonful of vanilla sugar or a small glassful of liqueur;
and add to them, little by little, working the while with the pestle,
one lb. of sugar cooked to the _small-crack_ stage.
With this generic recipe, the melting paste may be varied at will by an
increase or decrease in the quantity of sugar.
2387—PISTACHIOS
These should belong to the pastry-cook’s stock, but, as a rule, they
are only prepared just before being served. To skin them, proceed as in
the case of almonds.
2388—PISTACHIO PASTE FOR INFUSION
As soon as the pistachios are skinned, washed, and dried, crush them in
the mortar to a very smooth paste, which set in boiled milk, to infuse.
As the colour of pistachios is weak, it is strengthened in preparations
containing them with a few drops of vegetable green, while its aroma is
thrown into relief with a trifle of vanilla.
2389—MELTING PISTACHIO PASTE
Put seven oz. of pistachios and two oz. of almonds through the crusher;
both should have been just skinned. Put the paste into the mortar; add
to it two tablespoonfuls of syrup, strongly flavoured with vanilla,
followed by eight oz. of sugar, cooked to the _small-crack_ stage, and
added to the paste little by little.
Transfer the paste to a marble slab, and finish it by combining three
tablespoonfuls of icing sugar with it.
=The Preparation and Cooking of Various Pastry Crusts used in Cookery=
2390—VOL-AU-VENT CRUST
Prepare the puff-paste as directed under No. 2366. Make the layer
of paste of an even thickness of four-fifths inch; set thereon an
overturned plate or a saucepan-lid, the size of which should be that
intended for the Vol-au-vent, and cut the paste obliquely, following
round the edges of the lid or plate with a small knife. Turn the
layer of paste over, and set it on a slightly moistened round baking
sheet; groove it all round; _gild_ it, and describe a circle on top
of it with the point of a knife, one and one-quarter inches away from
the edge, to form the cover of the Vol-au-vent. Streak this cover
criss-cross-fashion; also streak the body of the Vol-au-vent with the
point of a small knife, and bake it in a rather hot oven.
Upon withdrawing the Vol-au-vent from the oven, remove its cover, and
clear it of the soft crumb which will be found on its inside.
2391—BOUCHEE OR SMALL-PATTY CRUSTS
Bouchées are really small Vol-au-vents. Roll out the paste, making it a
good one-third inch thick. Cut this layer with a grooved round cutter
three inches in diameter; set the roundels of stamped-out paste on a
moistened tray; _gild_, and make a circular incision in each of them,
one-half inch from their edges, either with the point of a small knife
or with an even, round cutter dipped in hot water.
Bake in a hot oven, and clear the insides of the bouchées of their
crumb on taking them out of the oven. “Mignonnes Bouchées,” which are
used as a garnish, are stamped out with a round cutter two inches in
diameter, and are slightly thicker than ordinary bouchées.
2392—SMALL HOT PATTIES
Roll out the puff-paste to a thickness of one-sixth inch, and stamp
it out with an even round cutter three inches in diameter. With the
trimmings resulting from this operation, rolled somewhat more thinly,
make an equal quantity of roundels, and lay them on a tray. Slightly
moisten the edges of these roundels with a brush; garnish their centres
with some forcemeat, rolled to the size of a hazel-nut; cover the
forcemeat with the roundels stamped out from the first; press upon
these with the back of a round cutter two inches in diameter; _gild_
them, and bake them in a hot oven for twelve or fourteen minutes.
2393—CROÛTES ET CROUSTADES
For tartlet crusts, which are put to various uses, take either even or
grooved, large or small moulds, subject to the requirements.
Roll out a piece of short paste to a thickness of one-fifth inch; stamp
it out with a grooved round cutter of a size in proportion to the
moulds used; line the buttered moulds with these roundels of paste;
pierce the paste on the bottom of each with the point of a small knife;
line with good-quality paper; fill up with lentils, split peas, or
rice, and bake in a moderate oven. When the paste is baked, withdraw
the dry vegetable used and the paper, and place the crusts in the
drying-box, that they may be quite dry; or _gild_ them inside, and set
them in the front of the oven for a few minutes.
2394—TIMBALE CRUST
Butter a Charlotte-mould, and decorate its sides with some sort of
design made from noodle-paste trimmings to which a little powdered
sugar has been added. Shape a piece of short paste (of a size in
proportion to the mould) like a ball; roll it out to a disc; sprinkle
it with flour, and fold it in two. Draw the ends gently towards the
centre, so as to form a kind of skullcap, and take care to not crease
the paste. Make this skullcap of an even thickness of one-third inch,
and place it in the mould.
Press it well upon the bottom and sides of the mould, that it may
acquire the shape of the latter; line the mould inside with good
buttered paper; fill up with lentils or split peas, letting them
project in a dome above the edges of the paste, and cover with a round
sheet of paper.
Prepare a round layer of paste, one-fifth inch thick, a little larger
diametrally than the timbale one. Slightly moisten the inside edges of
the timbale; cover it with the prepared disc of paste, and seal it well
down to the edges of the timbale, pressing it between the fingers in
such wise as to form a crest reaching one-half inch beyond the brim of
the mould all round.
Pinch this crest with paste-pincers inside and out.
With a round or oval grooved fancy-cutter stamp out some imitation
leaves from a very thin layer of paste, and imitate the veins of
the leaves with the back of a knife; or stamp out some triangles of
paste; shape them like leaves, and set these (slightly overlapping one
another) upon the dome of the timbale in superposed rows.
Finish with three roundels of paste, stamped out with a grooved round
cutter of a different size from the first, and make a hole in the
centre of each roundel with a round, even fancy-cutter. _Gild_ and bake
in a moderate oven. When the outside of the timbale is well browned,
detach and remove the cover formed by the leaves. Withdraw the split
peas and the paper; _gild_ the timbale inside, and leave it to dry in
the front of the oven or in the drying-box.
2395—FLAWN CRUST
With short or any other kind of paste prepare a layer one-sixth inch
thick, the diameter of which should be one-fourth as long again as
that of the flawn-ring used. Raise this layer, and place it upon the
previously-buttered flawn-ring, pressing it with the fingers, that
it may assume the shape of the mould. Then roll the pin across the
ring, in order that the overlapping paste may be cut away; press the
thickness of paste that has been formed between the fingers in such a
way as to make it project above the edges of the flawn-ring, and form
a regular crest. Pinch this crest with the pastry pincers, and set the
flawn-ring on a small round baking sheet.
Prick it with the point of a small knife; line its bottom and sides
with slightly-buttered, good paper; fill the ring with dry lentils or
split peas, and bake in a moderately hot oven for about twenty-five
minutes.
Then remove the lentils and paper, as also the ring, and return the
flawn to the oven for a few minutes to brown, if it is not already
sufficiently coloured.
If the paste be required very dry, place the flawn in the drying-box
for a little while, or _gild_ it inside, and set it in the front of the
oven for a few minutes.
2396—THE LINING AND COVERING OF RAISED AND DRESSED PIES
The moulds for Raised Pies are oval or round. If they are round, make a
layer of patty paste, one-half inch thick, in proportion to the size of
the mould.
Sprinkle this paste with flour, fold it in two, and shape it like a
skullcap, after the manner described under “Timbale Crust.” It is only
necessary to press this skullcap of paste into the buttered mould in
order to give it the shape of the latter. If the mould is oval, proceed
in the same way, giving the skullcap an oval shape.
When the raised pie is filled, first cover the garnish with a somewhat
thin, round, or oval layer of paste, in accordance with the shape of
the mould, and seal it well down upon the moistened edges. Then cut
away the superfluous paste of the crest, so as to make the latter even
and neat, and pinch it outside and in. Raised pies are covered in two
ways—either with a layer of puff-paste, or with leaves of paste stamped
out with a round cutter or a knife, the veins being imitated with the
back of a knife.
In the first case, prepare a layer of puff-paste one-third inch thick,
equal in size to the inside of the patty. Drop this layer of paste upon
the cover of the pie, after having slightly moistened it; _gild_ and
streak it, and make a slit in the top for the escape of steam.
In the second case, prepare the paste leaves as directed above, and
lay them on the pie (slightly overlapping one another) in superposed
rows, starting from the bottom. On the top of the pie set three or four
indented roundels of paste, graduated in size, and stuck one upon the
other, each roundel having a hole in its centre for the escape of steam.
_Gild_ and set the pie in the oven.
The baking of raised pies made with raw forcemeat is effected in a
moderately-heated oven. Bear in mind that the larger the pie is, the
more moderate should be the oven.
VARIOUS CUSTARDS
=Hot Custards=
2397—CRÈME ANGLAISE
This custard allows of various methods of preparation which are subject
to the purpose for which it is intended. It is the chief sauce for
entremets, and whether it be poached in a deep dish or in a mould, it
constitutes one of the oldest and best-known entremets. This last kind
of custard will be examined hereafter. At present I shall only deal
with the variety used either as a sauce or an accompaniment, cold or
hot. It is extremely difficult to prescribe fixed quantities for this
custard, for the former depend a great deal upon the consumers’ tastes,
and, whereas some like a thick custard, others go to the extreme of
wishing it just liquid enough to be drunk like any other beverage.
The quantities given below are suited to a custard of medium
consistence, but if a thicker custard were desired, the number of
egg-yolks would have to be proportionately increased, and _vice-versâ_.
The quantity of sugar also varies, subject to the consumers’ tastes,
and, as the amount used (except in the case of unreasonable excess)
does not affect the consistence of the custard, it may be graduated
from three to ten or twelve oz. per quart, as taste may dictate.
Six oz. of sugar per quart of milk constitutes a happy medium.
English custard admits of all the aromatic essences used for
entremets, but the one which suits it best is vanilla. When this
last-named flavour or that of filberts, almond pralin, or coffee is
used, it is well to put the required quantity to infuse for twenty
minutes in the boiling milk, after the latter has been measured off.
Chocolate is first melted and then gradually added to the custard
before it is cooked. Other aromatic essences or liqueurs are added to
the custard after it has been strained.
English custard admits of two methods of preparation:—
_Recipe A._—Put twelve raw egg-yolks and three-quarters lb. of powdered
sugar in a bowl. Mix the sugar a little with the yolks, and stir the
latter briskly with a spatula until they have entirely absorbed the
sugar, and the resulting paste is white and has reached the _ribbon_
stage. Then pour one quart of boiling milk into the paste, little
by little, mixing the whole the while with a whisk. Then put the
preparation on the fire, stirring it with a spatula, and cook it
until it approaches the boil and properly coats the withdrawn spoon.
Take care not to let it boil, for this would turn the preparation.
In any case, when the sauce is intended for hot sweets, by adding a
tablespoonful of arrowroot, it may be prevented from turning.
When the custard is cooked, as already explained, strain it, either
through a strainer, into a _bain-marie_, if it is to be served hot,
or through a sieve into a large, enamelled basin, where it should be
frequently stirred to be kept smooth while cooling.
Custard prepared in this way forms the base of all ice-creams, of which
I shall speak later on. It may serve as an adjunct to all cold or
hot sweets which allow of a sauce. When, while it is still lukewarm,
it is combined with its weight of best butter, it constitutes the
delicious butter cream, which is the richest and most delicate of the
pastry-cook’s confections.
Finally, if eight melted gelatine leaves per quart of cooled milk be
added to it, and it be mixed with twice its volume of whipped cream,
it represents the preparation for “Cream Bavarois” and “Russian
Charlottes.”
_Recipe B._—Melt six oz. of sugar in one quart of milk; boil, and
pour the mixture, little by little, over twelve egg-yolks, whisking
the latter briskly the while. When this custard is to be moulded, or
is intended for a Cabinet Pudding, or some other similar preparation,
which must be ultimately poached, strain it as soon as it is mixed,
without cooking it.
If, on the other hand, it be intended for an accompaniment, or for the
preparation of butter creams or ices, cook it as directed in Recipe A.
2398—DISHED ENGLISH CUSTARD (To Accompany Cold or Hot Stewed Fruit)
For this purpose English custard is made from only ten egg-yolks per
quart of milk. Serve it in shallow silver or porcelain dishes; sprinkle
its surface copiously with icing sugar, and criss-cross it with a
red-hot iron.
2399—FRANGIPAN CREAM
As in the case of English custard, Frangipan custard varies in the
quantities of its ingredients in accordance with its purpose and the
taste of its consumers. The recipe given below is an average one,
which the reader will be able to modify, in regard to consistence, by
increasing or decreasing the amount of flour.
Mix one-half lb. of powdered sugar, two oz. of flour, two whole eggs,
and the yolks of five in a basin. Pour one pint of boiling milk over
this paste, stirring it briskly the while; add a grain of salt and
the selected aromatic essence, and set the saucepan on the fire, that
the Frangipan may cook. Do not cease stirring this cream while it is
cooking, for it easily burns.
Let it boil a few minutes; pour it into a bowl, and combine three oz.
of fresh butter and two tablespoonfuls of dry, crushed macaroons with
it. When the whole is well mixed, smooth the surface of the custard
with a well-buttered spoon, so that no crust may form while the cooling
progresses.
2400—FRANGIPAN FOR FRIED CREAM
Proceed as above, but so apportion the quantities as to obtain a very
firm cream. The quantities should be as follows:—Six oz. of flour,
six oz. of sugar, ten egg-yolks, four whole eggs, one quart of milk,
and one oz. of butter.
When this cream is cooked, spread it in a layer one inch thick on a
buttered tray or on a marble slab; carefully butter its surface, and
let it cool before using it.
=Cold Custards=
2401—PASTRY CREAM
Mix one lb. of powdered sugar with four oz. of flour and twelve
egg-yolks, and dilute with one quart of boiling milk. Cook this cream,
stirring it continually the while; and, as soon as it boils, add to it
a few drops of orange-flower water and four gelatine leaves, softened
in cold water. Boil the cream a few minutes; take it off the fire, and,
while stirring it briskly, carefully combine with it twelve egg-whites,
beaten to a stiff froth.
N.B.—Some operators call this St. Honoré cream (for, as a matter of
fact, it serves chiefly in the garnishing of sweets bearing that name),
and give the name of Pastry cream to the same preparation minus the
egg-whites and the gelatine. I prefer to abide by the principle given
above, and to consider the cream without whisked egg-whites merely as a
Frangipan, with which it has many points in common.
Pastry cream may be flavoured according to fancy. The addition of the
gelatine is not necessary when the cream is to be served immediately,
or when it only has a moment or two to wait. But it is indispensable
to prevent the decomposition of the preparation, especially in hot
weather, if it have to wait at all.
2402—WHIPPED OR CHANTILLY CREAM
Nothing could be simpler or more exquisite than this preparation, which
is obtained by whipping the best cream (kept fresh for twenty-four
hours in ice) over ice. The cream speedily increases in volume and
becomes frothy. The operation should then be stopped, lest the cream
turn to butter, and there should be immediately added to the former
four oz. of powdered sugar (part of which should be the vanilla kind)
per quart, and then the preparation should be placed in the cool until
required.
N.B.—The addition of a little dissolved or powdered tragacanth gum to
the cream allows of a more frothy cream being obtained, but the result
is neither as fresh nor as perfect in taste when it is not combined
with a sweet or ice preparation.
=Various Preparations for Entremets=
2403—PREPARATIONS FOR PANCAKES AND PANNEQUETS
_Preparation A._—Put into a basin one lb. of sifted flour, six oz. of
powdered sugar, and a pinch of table-salt. Dilute with ten eggs and one
quart of milk, added by degrees. Flavour with one heaped tablespoonful
of orange, lemon or vanilla sugar, which should form part of the total
weight of sugar prescribed; or with one-eighth pint of some liqueur
such as brandy, kirsch, rum, &c., which should form part of the total
moistening.
_Preparation B._—Dilute one lb. of flour, three and one-half oz. of
powdered sugar and a pinch of salt, with nine eggs and a half-pint of
cream. Add one-eighth pint of brandy, two and a half-oz. of melted
butter and one and a half-pints of milk. Pass the whole through a fine
strainer, and finish it with one-eighth pint of _orgeat_ syrup (or
almond milk) and three oz. of finely-crushed macaroons.
_Preparation C._—Dilute one lb. of flour, three and a half oz. of
powdered sugar and a pinch of table salt in nine eggs. Stir the mixture
well; add to it a half-pint of raw cream and one pint of milk. Finish
with a half-pint of whipped cream, and flavour as fancy may suggest.
_Preparation D._—Dilute one lb. of flour, three and a half oz. of
powdered sugar and a pinch of salt, in five eggs and the yolks of
three. Add one and three-quarter pints of milk and five egg-whites
whisked to a stiff froth.
Flavour according to fancy.
2404—RICE PREPARATION FOR ENTREMETS
Wash one lb. of Carolina or Patna rice; cover it with plenty of cold
water; boil, and drain it the moment it has boiled. Wash it once more
in lukewarm water; drain it, and set it to cook with two pints of
boiled milk, two-thirds lb. of sugar, a pinch of salt and three oz. of
butter.
Flavour with a stick of vanilla or a few strips of orange or lemon
rind, strung together with cotton. When the liquor begins to boil,
cover the saucepan; place it in the oven, and let it cook gently for
twenty or twenty-five minutes, without once touching the rice the while.
On withdrawing it from the oven, thicken it with the yolks of sixteen
eggs, which should be mixed with it by means of a fork in such wise as
not to break the rice grains, which ought to remain whole.
N.B.—In some cases, the milk and the sugar may be replaced (for the
cooking process) by an equal amount of syrup at 12° (Saccharometer).
2405—SOUFFLÉ PREPARATIONS
Soufflé preparations are of two kinds:—
(1) Those prepared with cream, which if necessary may serve for all
_soufflés_; (2) those with a fruit-purée base, which allow of a more
pronounced flavour for fruit _soufflés_ than if these were prepared
with cream.
_Cream-soufflé Preparation for Four People._—Boil one-sixth pint of
milk with one oz. of sugar; add a tablespoonful of flour diluted in a
little cold milk; cook for two minutes, and finish, away from the fire,
with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and two egg-yolks with
three whites whisked to a stiff froth.
_Soufflé Preparation for a Big Party._—Thoroughly mix half-lb. of
flour, half-lb. of sugar, four eggs and the yolks of three, in a
saucepan. Dilute with one quart of boiling milk; add a stick of
vanilla; boil, and cook for two minutes, stirring incessantly the while.
Finish, away from the fire, with four oz. of butter, five egg-yolks,
and twelve whites, whisked to a very stiff froth.
_Soufflé Preparation with a Fruit Base._—Take one lb. of sugar cooked
to the _small-crack_ stage; add thereto one lb. of the pulp or purée of
the fruit under treatment, and ten egg-whites, beaten to a stiff froth.
Proceed thus: Having cooked the sugar to the extent stated above, add
to it the fruit pulp. If the latter reduces the sugar a stage or two,
cook it afresh in order to return it to the _small-crack_ stage; and,
when this is reached, pour it over the whites.
_Dishing and Cooking of Soufflés._—Whatever the soufflés may consist
of, dish them in a timbale, or in a special false-bottomed dish,
buttered and sugared inside. Cook in a somewhat moderate oven, that the
heat may reach the centre of the soufflé by degrees.
Two minutes before withdrawing the soufflé from the oven, sprinkle it
with icing sugar, which, when it becomes caramel upon the surface of
the soufflé, constitutes the glazing.
The decoration of soufflés is optional, and, in any case, should not be
overdone.
=Hot Sauces for Entremets=
2406—ENGLISH SAUCE
See the Custard recipe (No. 2397).
2407—CHOCOLATE SAUCE
Dissolve half-lb. of grated chocolate in two-thirds pint of water. Add
a tablespoonful of vanilla sugar; cook gently for twenty-five minutes,
and complete at the last moment with three tablespoonfuls of cream and
a piece of best butter, the size of a walnut.
2408—SABAYON
Mix one lb. of powdered sugar with twelve egg-yolks, in a basin, until
the mixture has whitened slightly. Dilute with one quart of dry, white
wine; pour the whole in a narrow _bain-marie_, which should be placed
in a receptacle containing boiling water, and whisk it until it is four
times its former size, and is firm and frothy.
N.B.—Sabayon may also be made with milk instead of white wine, and it
may be flavoured according to fancy.
2409—FRUIT SAUCE
Apricots, red-currants, greengages and mirabelle plums are the best
fruits for sweet sauces. Other fruits, such as peaches, William pears,
apples, &c., may also be used in the form of light purées or cullises.
2410—APRICOT SAUCE
Rub some very ripe or stewed apricots through a sieve, and thin the
purée with the required quantity of syrup at 28° (Saccharom.). Boil,
skimming carefully the while; take off the fire when the sauce veneers
the withdrawn spoon, and flavour according to fancy.
If this sauce is to be used with crusts, a little best butter may be
added to it.
2411—RED-CURRANT SAUCE
Melt some red-currant jelly and flavour it with kirsch.
This sauce may be slightly thickened with arrowroot.
2412—SAUCE ORANGE
Rub some orange marmalade through a sieve; add thereto one-third of its
bulk of apricot sauce, and flavour with curaçao.
2413—HAZEL-NUT SAUCE
Flavour some English custard with an infusion of grilled hazel-nuts,
and add two tablespoonfuls of moulded filbert _pralin_ per quart of
custard.
2414—GREENGAGE OR MIRABELLE SAUCE
Proceed as for apricot sauce and flavour with kirsch.
2415—CHERRY SAUCE
Take the syrup of some stewed cherries, add an equal quantity of
red-currant jelly, and flavour with kirsch.
2416—RASPBERRY SAUCE
Take the required quantity of melted raspberry jelly; thicken it
slightly with arrowroot, and flavour with kirsch.
2417—STRAWBERRY SAUCE
Proceed as for No. 2416.
2418—THICKENED SYRUPS
These accompaniments of sweets, which are commonly used in Germany,
have this in their favour, that they are economical; but they should
be used in moderation. To make them, take some syrup at 15°, thickened
with arrowroot, coloured according to the purpose for which it is
required, and flavoured with some liqueur or essence at the last moment.
It is with this kind of sauce that flawns and all other sorts of
tartlets are coated in northern countries.
HOT SWEETS
=Fritters=
The numerous fritter recipes for sweets may all be grouped into five
leading classes, viz.:—
(1) Fruit fritters.
(2) Custard fritters.
(3) Viennese fritters.
(4) Souffléd fritters.
(5) Sundry other fritters which are more or less like the four former
ones without entirely resembling them.
2419—_Class 1._ FRESH FRUIT AND FLOWER FRITTERS
Subject to the treatment undergone by them, fruits for fritters are of
two kinds: firm fruits, such as apples and pears, and aqueous fruits,
such as strawberries, &c.
2420—FRITTERS OF FRUIT WITH FIRM PULPS _Ex._ APRICOT FRITTERS
Select some apricots that are not over-ripe; cut them in two; sprinkle
them with sugar, and set them to macerate for an hour in kirsch,
brandy, or rum, subject to the consumers’ tastes. A few minutes before
serving, dry the halved apricots, dip them in batter (No. 234), and fry
them in hot fat. Drain them on a napkin; set the fritters on a tray;
cover them with icing sugar, and glaze them in a hot oven or at the
salamander. Dish them on a napkin, and serve them at once.
N.B.—Proceed in precisely the same way for Apple, Pear, Peach, or
Banana fritters.
2421—AQUEOUS-FRUIT FRITTERS _Ex._ STRAWBERRY FRITTERS
Select some large, somewhat firm strawberries; sugar them copiously;
sprinkle them with kirsch, and let them macerate on ice for thirty
minutes.
It is most essential that the strawberries be well sugared before
macerating, because the heat of the fat sours them while the fritters
are being fried, and they consequently become tart.
A few minutes before serving, drain the strawberries, dip them in
batter (No. 234), and plunge them into very hot fat. Drain them, dish
them on lace paper, and sprinkle them with icing sugar, by means of a
dredger.
N.B.—The procedure is the same for Raspberry, Red-currant, Cherry,
Orange, and Tangerine fritters. For the last-named, it is better to
quarter them and peel them raw, than to slice them.
2422—FLOWER FRITTERS. _Ex._ ACACIA-FLOWER FRITTERS
Select some blown acacia flowers; besprinkle them with sugar and
liqueur brandy, and leave them to macerate for thirty minutes.
Dip them in batter (No. 234); plunge them into plenty of hot fat; drain
them; sprinkle them with best sugar and dish them on a napkin.
N.B.—Proceed as above for Elder-flower, Lily, and
Vegetable-marrow-flower fritters; but in the case of the last two, the
quartered corollæ, alone, are used.
2423—CUSTARD FRITTERS OR FRIED CREAM
Custard fritters may be prepared in the three following totally
different ways.
_1st Method._—Cut up preparation No. 2400 with a round, square, or
lozenge-shaped fancy cutter, as taste may dictate. Treat the resulting
pieces of custard twice _à l’anglaise_, using very fine and fresh
bread-crumbs for the purpose. Press upon the bread-crumbs with the
blade of a knife that they may adhere properly, and fry the pieces of
cream in very hot fat. On taking the fritters out of the fat sprinkle
them with icing sugar, and dish them on a napkin.
N.B.—Instead of treating these fritters _à l’anglaise_, they may be
dipped into batter and treated as directed in the case of Apricot
fritters.
_2nd Method._—Prepare a custard as for a “crème renversée” (No. 2639),
using only whole eggs, that it may be firm; and poach it in a utensil
of a shape which will facilitate the cutting-up of the preparation.
When the latter is quite cool, cut it up as fancy may suggest; dip the
pieces in batter (No. 234) and plunge them in plenty of hot fat. Drain
them on a piece of linen; sprinkle them with icing sugar; glaze them in
a fierce oven, and dish them on a napkin.
_3rd Method._—Prepare some common-shaped meringues, and keep them very
dry.
When they have cooled, open them slightly on top, and, through the hole
in each, fill them either with a Bavarois preparation, with some kind
of ice-cream, or with a fruit _salpicon_ thickened with stewed apricots
or plums. Close the holes with the pieces that were cut out, and place
the meringues in the refrigerator for an hour.
When about to serve them, quickly treat them _à l’anglaise_; set them
(opened side uppermost) in a frying-basket, and dip them for a few
seconds in smoking fat. Withdraw them as soon as their crusts have
acquired a golden colour; sprinkle them with icing sugar; dish them on
a napkin, and serve them immediately.
2424—VIENNESE FRITTERS
Quantities for the paste of Viennese fritters: one lb. of flour;
six oz. of butter; half oz. of yeast; five eggs; half oz. of salt;
two-third oz. of sugar; and one-sixth pint of milk. This paste is
prepared exactly like Brioche paste (No. 2368).
In any case, as it has to be worked with the rolling-pin, always keep
it a little firm.
2425—HOT VIENNESE FRITTERS
Roll out a piece of the paste given above to a thickness of one-fifth
inch.
Spread upon it, at regular intervals, small quantities (about the size
of a large walnut) either of stewed fruit or jam. Moisten slightly;
cover with a second layer of paste, of the same size and thickness as
the former; press upon it with the back of a round cutter, so as to
ensure the joining of the two layers of paste, and then stamp the whole
out with an even cutter two and a half inches in diameter.
Set the fritters on a tray covered with a flour-dusted piece of linen;
let the paste ferment for thirty minutes, and then fry them in plenty
of hot fat. Drain them; sprinkle them with icing sugar and dish them on
a napkin.
N.B.—These fritters may be accompanied by frothy sauces, flavoured with
vanilla, lemon, orange, coffee, or kirsch, &c., the type of which is
the Sabayon with cream.
2426—COLD VIENNESE FRITTERS
Roll out a piece of the paste prescribed, which should be kept somewhat
soft, and stamp it out with a round cutter two and a half inches in
diameter. Set half of these roundels of paste on buttered sheets of
paper, lying on trays; garnish them either with stewed fruit or jam;
slightly moisten their edges; cover them with the remaining roundels of
paste, and let the paste ferment for thirty minutes.
A few minutes before serving, grasp the ends of the sheets of paper;
plunge the fritters into plenty of hot fat, and withdraw the sheets of
paper as soon as the fritters fall from them.
Drain them as soon as they begin to colour; and plunge them immediately
into a light, hot syrup, flavoured as fancy may dictate. Withdraw them
as soon as they are beginning to be saturated, and serve them cold.
N.B.—In the case of either of these two methods of serving Viennese
fritters, the latter, which are served under the name of “fritters
à la Dauphine,” may be garnished with fruit _salpicons_ or cream
preparations.
=Souffléd Fritters=
2427—ORDINARY SOUFFLÉD FRITTERS
Put one pint of water, three and a half oz. of butter, a pinch of salt
and two pinches of sugar into a saucepan. Boil; take the utensil off
the fire in order to add two-thirds lb. of sifted flour, and mix up the
whole. Then dry this paste as directed for pâte à choux (No. 2373); and
finish it, away from the fire, with seven eggs, added one by one.
Flavour according to taste.
Take this paste in portions, the size of small walnuts; put these
portions in moderately hot fat, and gradually increase the heat of the
latter, so as to ensure the rising of the paste.
When the fritters are quite dry outside, drain them; dish them on a
napkin, and sprinkle them with icing sugar.
2428—SOUFFLÉD FRITTERS “EN SURPRISE”
Prepare the fritters exactly like the preceding ones. When taking
them out of the fat, open them slightly and garnish them, by means of
the piping-bag, either with stewed fruit, jam, a very fine, thickened
_salpicon_ of fruit, or some kind of cream, especially frangipan or
pastry cream.
=Various Fritters=
2429—PINEAPPLE FRITTERS “A LA FAVORITE”
Cut the pineapple into roundels, one-third inch thick; cut each
roundel in two; sprinkle the half-discs with sugar and kirsch, and
let them macerate for thirty minutes. Then dry them and dip them into
a very thick and almost cold frangipan cream, combined with chopped
pistachios. Set the cream-coated roundels on a tray, and let them cool
completely.
A little while before serving, detach the roundels from the tray; dip
them in somewhat thin batter, and fry them in plenty of hot fat.
Drain them; sprinkle them with icing sugar; glaze them in a fierce
oven, and dish them on a napkin.
2430—FRITTERS “A LA BOURGEOISE”
Cut a stale brioche crown into slices, one-third inch thick, and dip
these into fresh, sugared cream, flavoured according to fancy. Drain
them; dry them slightly; dip them into thin batter, and fry them in
very hot fat.
Drain them; sprinkle them with sugar, and dish them on a napkin.
2431—SYLVANA FRITTERS
Hollow out some small round brioches, preserving the crusts for covers,
and dip them in some thin, sugared and flavoured fresh cream. Then
garnish them with a small fruit _salpicon_ with kirsch; cover this with
the reserved covers; dip them into thin batter, and fry them in plenty
of hot fat.
Drain them; dish them on a napkin, and sprinkle them with icing sugar.
2432—FRITTERS “A LA GRAND-MÈRE”
Spread upon a moistened tray a layer half inch thick of very reduced,
stewed fruit. Cut it up according to fancy; dip the pieces in batter
(No. 234), and fry them in plenty of hot fat.
On withdrawing the fritters from the fat, sprinkle them with icing
sugar and set them to glaze in a fierce oven.
2433—REGINA FRITTERS
Shape some lady’s-finger biscuits (preparation No. 2378) into large
half-balls, one and a half inch in diameter; bake these in a moderate
oven and cool them. Then hollow out these half-balls; garnish them with
apricot or some other jam; join them in couples, and dip them so as to
thoroughly soak them in some fresh cream flavoured with maraschino.
Drain them; treat them _à l’anglaise_ with very fine bread-crumbs, and
fry them in plenty of hot fat.
Drain them; dish them on a napkin, and sprinkle them with icing sugar.
2434—MINION FRITTERS
Proceed as above, but substitute for biscuit half-balls soft macaroons,
saturated with kirsch syrup. For the rest of the operation, follow the
procedure of No. 2433.
2435—FRITTERS A LA SUZON
Make a preparation of “rice for entremets,” and spread it in a thin
layer upon a tray, to cool. Divide it up into discs three and a half
inches in diameter; garnish the centre of these with a very stiff fruit
_salpicon_; roll the discs into balls, so as to enclose the _salpicon_;
dip these balls into thin batter, and fry them in plenty of hot fat.
Drain them; dish them on a napkin, and sprinkle them with icing sugar.
=Charlottes=
2436—APPLE CHARLOTTE
Copiously butter a quart Charlotte-mould. Garnish its bottom with
heart-shaped _croûtons_ of bread-crumb, slightly overlapping one
another; and garnish its sides with rectangles of bread of exactly the
same height as the mould, and also slightly overlapping one another.
The _croûtons_ and the rectangles should be one-eighth inch thick, and
ought to have been dipped in melted butter before taking their place in
the mould.
Meanwhile, quarter twelve fine russet apples; peel, slice, and cook
them in a sautépan with one oz. of butter, two tablespoonfuls of
powdered sugar, and half the rind of a lemon and a little cinnamon—both
tied into a faggot.
When the apples are cooked, and reduced to a thick purée, remove the
faggot of aromatics and add three tablespoonfuls of stewed apricots.
Fill up the mould with this preparation, and remember to shape the
latter in a projecting dome above the mould; for it settles in cooking.
Bake in a good, moderate oven for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.
2437—CHARLOTTE DE POMMES, EMILE GIRET
Prepare the Charlotte as directed above, but in a shallow mould.
When it is moulded on the dish, completely cover it with an even coat,
half inch thick, of very firm “pastry cream” (No. 2401), and take care
not to spoil the shape of the Charlotte.
Sprinkle the cream copiously with icing sugar; then, with a red-hot
iron, criss-cross the Charlotte regularly all round; pressing the iron
upon the sugar-sprinkled cream.
Surround the base of the Charlotte with a row of beads made by means of
the piping-bag, from the same cream as that already used.
2438—VARIOUS CHARLOTTES
Charlottes may be made with pears, peaches, apricots, &c., after the
same procedure as that directed under No. 2436. The most important
point to be remembered in their preparation is that the stewed fruit
used should be very stiff; otherwise it so softens the shell of bread
that the Charlotte collapses as soon as it is turned out.
It is no less important that the mould should be as full as possible of
the preparation used; for, as already explained, the latter settles in
the cooking process.
2439—CRÈME A LA RÉGENCE
Saturate half a pound of “Biscuits à la Cuiller” with Maraschino-Kirsch,
and then dip them into a quart of boiled milk. Rub them through a silk
sieve, and add eight eggs, ten egg-yolks, two-thirds pound of powdered
sugar and a small pinch of table salt. Pour the whole into a shallow,
Charlotte mould, and set to poach in a _bain-marie_ for about
thirty-five minutes.
Let the mould rest for a few minutes; turn out its contents on a dish
and surround the base of the cream with a crown of stewed half-apricots,
each garnished with a preserved cherry. Coat the whole with an apricot
syrup, flavoured with Kirsch and Maraschino.
2440—CRÈME MERINGUÉE
Prepare some “Crème à la Régence” as above, and poach it in a buttered
deep border-mould. Poach in a _bain-marie_; turn out on a dish, and
garnish the middle of the border with Italian meringue (No. 2383),
combined with a _salpicon_ of preserved fruit, macerated in Kirsch.
Decorate the border by means of a piping-bag, fitted with a grooved
pipe and filled with plain, Italian meringue, without the fruit; and
set to brown in a moderate oven.
Serve an orange-flavoured, English custard separately.
2441—VILLAGE CUSTARD
Saturate five ounces of dry biscuits with Kirsch and Anisette, and set
them in a deep dish in layers, alternated with coatings of stewed,
seasonable fruit, such as pears, apples, etc.
Cover the whole with the following preparation: one-half pound of
powdered sugar mixed with eight eggs and the yolks of four, and diluted
with one and three-quarter pints of milk. Poach in a _bain-marie_, in
the oven.
2442—CUSTARD PUDDING
Custard pudding is a form of the English custard mentioned under
No. 2397.
The difference between the two is that for the former whole eggs are
used instead of the yolks alone, and that it is prepared according to
the second method only. The average quantities for the preparation are:
Six eggs and six ounces of sugar per quart of milk. The custard is
cooked in pie-dishes in a _bain-marie_, which should be placed in the
oven or in a steamer.
According as to whether the custard be required milky or thick, the
number of eggs is either lessened or increased. In regard to the sugar,
the guide should be the consumers’ tastes. If necessary, it may be
suppressed altogether, and saccharine or glycerine may be used in its
stead, as is customary for diabetic patients.
Custard is generally flavoured with vanilla, but any other flavour
suited to sweets may be used with it.
=Pancakes.= (See preparations No. 2403.)
2443—CONVENT PANCAKES
Pour into a buttered and hot omelet-pan some preparation A, sprinkle
thereon some William pears, cut into small dice; cover the latter with
some more preparation A; toss the pancake in order to turn it; sprinkle
it with powdered sugar, dish it on a napkin and serve it burning-hot.
2444—GEORGETTE PANCAKES
Proceed as for Convent pancakes, but substitute for pear-dice some very
thin slices of pine-apple, macerated in Maraschino.
2445—GIL-BLAS PANCAKES
Make the following preparation: work three ounces of best butter in a
bowl until it acquires the consistence of a pomade. Mix therewith three
ounces of powdered sugar, three tablespoonfuls of liqueur brandy, a
piece of butter the size of a filbert, and a few drops of lemon juice.
Make the pancakes with preparation C; spread the prepared butter upon
them; fold each pancake twice, and dish them on a napkin.
2446—PANCAKES A LA NORMANDE
Proceed as for Convent Pancakes, but for the pear dice substitute fine
slices of apple, previously _sautéd_ in butter.
2447—PANCAKES A LA PARISIENNE
These are made from preparation B, and are ungarnished.
2448—PANCAKES A LA PAYSANNE
Make these from preparation B (the _orgeat_ syrup and the macaroons
being suppressed), and flavour with orange-flower water.
2449—PANCAKES A LA RUSSE
Add to preparation C, a quarter of its volume of broken biscuits
saturated with kümmel and liqueur brandy, and make the pancakes in the
usual way.
2450—SUZETTE PANCAKES
Make these from preparation A, flavoured with curaçao and tangerine
juice. Coat them, like Gil-Blas pancakes, with softened butter,
flavoured with curaçao and tangerine juice.
=Croquettes.=
2451—CHESTNUT CROQUETTES
Peel the chestnuts after one of the ways directed (No. 2172), and cook
them in a thin syrup, flavoured with vanilla. Reserve one small, whole
chestnut for each croquette. Rub the remainder through a sieve; dry the
purée over a fierce fire, and thicken it with five egg-yolks and one
and a half oz. of butter per lb. of purée. Let it cool.
Then divide the preparation up into portions the size of pigeons’ eggs,
and roll these portions into balls, with a chestnut in the centre of
each.
Treat them _à l’anglaise_ with some very fine bread-crumbs; fry them in
some very hot fat, and dish them on a napkin.
Serve a vanilla-flavoured apricot sauce, separately.
2452—RICE CROQUETTES
Make a preparation as directed under No. 2404. Divide it up into
two-oz. portions, moulded to the shape of such fruit as pears apples,
apricots, etc.; treat these _à l’anglaise_, like the chestnut
croquettes, and fry them in the same way.
Serve an apricot sauce or a vanilla-flavoured Sabayon separately.
2453—VARIOUS CROQUETTES
Croquettes may also be made from tapioca, semolina, vermicelli or
fresh noodles, etc., in which case the procedure is that of the Rice
Croquettes.
The preparation may be combined with currants and sultanas, and the
croquettes are served with any suitable sauce.
=Crusts.=
2454—CROÛTE AUX FRUITS
Cut some slices one-fifth inch thick from a stale Savarin which has not
been moistened with syrup, and allow two for each person. Set these
slices on a tray; sprinkle them with icing sugar, and put them in the
oven so as to dry and glaze them at the same time. Arrange them in a
circle round a cushion of fried bread-crumbs, and between each lay a
slice of pine-apple of exactly the same size as the slices.
Upon this crown of crusts, set some quartered apples and some stewed
pears. The pears may be stewed in a pinkish syrup, which, by varying
the colours, makes the croûte more sightly.
Decorate with preserved cherries, lozenges of angelica, quartered
yellow and green _chinois_, etc. Fix a small, turned and white or pink
pear on the top of the cushion, by means of a _hatelet_, and coat with
an apricot sauce, flavoured with Kirsch.
2455—CROÛTE A LA LYONNAISE
Prepare the crusts as described above, and coat them with a smooth
chestnut purée, flavoured with vanilla; then, cover them with an
apricot purée, cooked to the _small-thread_ stage; sprinkle with
finely-splintered and slightly-browned almonds, and dish in a circle.
Garnish the middle of the circle with chestnuts cooked in syrup, and
pipped Malaga raisins, currants, and sultanas (washed and swelled in
tepid water); the whole cohered with an apricot purée thinned with a
few tablespoonsful of Malaga wine.
2456—CROÛTE AU MADÈRE
Dish the glazed crusts in a circle as already described. Pour into
their midst a garnish consisting of equal parts of pipped, Malaga
raisins, currants, and sultanas, swelled in tepid water and moistened
with a Madeira-flavoured, apricot syrup.
2457—CROÛTE A LA MARÉCHALE
Cut from a stale _mousseline_ brioche, some triangles of the same
thickness as the ordinary crusts. Coat them with _pralin_ (No. 2352),
and then set them on a tray; sprinkle them with sugar glaze, and dry
the _pralin_ in a moderate oven.
Stick a fried-bread-crumb cushion, four inches high, on a dish, and
surround it with a _salpicon_ of pineapple, raisins, cherries, and
sugared orange-rind, cohered with some stiff stewed apples, combined
with a little apricot purée. Set the _pralin_-coated triangles upright
alongside of the _salpicon_, and surround them with a border of
half-pears, stewed in syrup, half their quantity being white and the
other pink.
On the top of the cushion, set a small pear, cooked in pink syrup,
which fix with a small _hatelet_, surround the border of half-pears
with a thread of apricot purée, flavoured slightly with vanilla, and
serve a sauceboat of the same purée separately.
2458—CROÛTE A LA NORMANDE
Prepare the crusts as indicated under No. 2454, coat them with very
stiffly stewed apples, and dish them in a circle.
Garnish their midst with stewed apples, prepared as for a Charlotte,
and upon the apples set a pyramid of quartered, white and pink apples,
cooked in syrup. Cover with reduced apple syrup, thickened with a
little very smooth stewed apples flavoured with Kirsch or old rum.
2459—CROÛTE A LA PARISIENNE
Coat the crusts with _pralin_, as explained under No. 2457, and dish
them in a circle. In their midst set some thin slices of pine-apple,
the ends of which should rest upon the circle of crusts; in the middle,
pour a garnish of various fruits, cohered with an apricot purée,
flavoured with Madeira, and coat the circle of crusts with apricot
syrup flavoured with Madeira.
2460—CROÛTE AUX ABRICOTS AU MARASQUIN
Cook some Savarin paste in buttered tartlet moulds. When these tartlets
are cooked, hollow them out at the top, taking care to leave a somewhat
thick border all round.
Coat them inside with _pralin_ (No. 2352), and dry them in a moderate
oven. Then garnish the centre of the tartlets with frangipan cream,
combined with filbert _pralin_. Upon this cream set a stoned apricot
poached in Maraschino.
Surround the apricot with small, candied half-cherries, alternated
with lozenges of angelica. Serve an apricot sauce, flavoured with
Maraschino, separately.
2461—CROÛTE VICTORIA
Prepare a crust after No. 2456, and garnish the centre with candied
cherries and glazed chestnuts. Serve an apricot sauce, flavoured with
rum, separately.
OMELETS.
Sweet omelets may be divided into four distinct classes, which are:—
1. Liqueur omelets.
2. Jam omelets.
3. Souffléd omelets.
4. Surprise omelets.
=Omelets with Liqueur.=
2462—_Example_: OMELET WITH RUM
Season the omelet with sugar and a little salt, and cook it in the
usual way. Set it on a long dish, sprinkle it with sugar and heated
rum, and set a light to it on bringing it to the table.
=Jam Omelets.=
2463—_Example_: APRICOT OMELET
Season the omelet as above, and, when about to roll it up, garnish it
inside with two tablespoonfuls of apricot jam per six eggs. Set on
a long dish; sprinkle with icing sugar, and either criss-cross the
surface with a red-hot iron or glaze the omelet at the salamander.
2464—XMAS OMELET
Beat the eggs with salt and sugar and add, per six eggs: two
tablespoonfuls of cream, a pinch of orange or lemon rind, and one
tablespoonful of rum. When about to roll up the omelet, garnish it
copiously with mincemeat, set it on a long dish; sprinkle it with
heated rum, and set it alight at the table.
=Souffléd Omelets.=
2465—_Example_: SOUFFLÉD OMELET WITH VANILLA
Mix eight oz. of sugar and eight egg-yolks in a basin, until the
mixture has whitened slightly, and draws up in ribbons when the spatula
is pulled out of it. Add ten egg-whites, beaten to a very stiff froth,
and mix the two preparations gently; cutting and raising the whole with
the spoon.
Set this preparation on a long, buttered and sugar-dusted dish, in the
shape of an oval mound, and take care to put some of it aside in a
piping-bag.
Smooth it all round with the blade of a knife; decorate according to
fancy with the contents of the piping-bag, and cook in a good, moderate
oven, for as long as the size of the omelet requires.
Two minutes before withdrawing it from the oven, sprinkle it with
icing sugar, that the latter, when melted, may cover the omelet with a
brilliant coat.
Flavour according to fancy, with vanilla, orange or lemon rind,
rum, Kirsch, &c.; but remember to add the selected flavour to the
preparation before the egg-whites are added to it.
=Surprise Omelets.=
2466—_Example_: NORWEGIAN OMELET
Place an oval cushion one and one half in. thick of _Génoise_ upon a
long dish, and let the cushion be as long as the desired omelet. Upon
this cushion set a pyramid of ice-cream with fruit. Cover the ice-cream
with ordinary meringue (No. 2382); smooth it with a knife, making it of
an even thickness of two-thirds of an inch in so doing; decorate it, by
means of the piping-bag, with the same meringue, and set in a very hot
oven, that the meringue may cook and colour quickly, without the heat
reaching the ice inside.
2467—SURPRISE OMELET MYLORD
Proceed as directed above; but garnish the cushion of _Génoise_ with
coats of vanilla ice-cream, alternated with coats of stewed pears.
Cover with meringue and cook in the same way.
2468—CHINESE SURPRISE OMELET
The procedure is the same, but the vanilla ice-cream is replaced by
tangerine ice. On taking the omelet out of the oven, surround it with
tangerines glazed with sugar, cooked to the _large-crack_ stage.
2469—SURPRISE OMELET WITH CHERRIES
Garnish the cushion of _Génoise_ with red-currant ice, flavoured
with raspberries and mixed with equal quantities of cherry ice and
half-sugared cherries, macerated in Kirsch.
Finish it like the Norwegian Omelet.
On taking it out of the oven, surround the omelet with drained
cherries, preserved in brandy, and sprinkle it with heated Kirsch, to
which set a light at the table.
2470—SURPRISE OMELET MILADY: also called MILADY PEACH
This is a surprise omelet, garnished with very firm raspberry ice, in
which are incrusted a circle of fine peaches, poached in vanilla.
The whole is then covered with Italian meringue, flavoured with
Maraschino, and laid in suchwise that those portions of the peaches
which project from the glaze remain bare.
Decorate the surface of the omelet with the same meringue; sprinkle it
with icing sugar, and set it to a glaze quickly.
2471—SURPRISE OMELET “A LA NAPOLITAINE” otherwise “BOMBE VESUVE”
Garnish the cushion of _Génoise_ with coats of vanilla and strawberry
ice, alternated with layers of broken candied-chestnut. Cover the
whole with Italian meringue prepared with Kirsch, which keep flat and
somewhat thick towards the centre. On top, set a _barquette_ of a size
in proportion to the omelet, made by means of the piping-bag with
ordinary meringue and baked in the oven without colouration. Decorate
with Italian meringue, covering the _barquette_ in so doing, and
quickly brown the omelet in the oven. When about to serve, garnish the
omelet with Jubilee cherries (No. 2566), which set alight at the last
moment.
2472—SURPRISE OMELET ELIZABETH
Garnish the cushion of _Génoise_ with vanilla ice and
crystallised-violets.
Cover it with meringue; decorate its surface with crystallised-violets,
and treat the omelet as in No. 2466.
When about to serve it, cover the omelet with a veil of spun sugar.
2473—SURPRISE OMELET “A L’ISLANDAISE”
Make the cushion of _Génoise_ round instead of oval; set it on a round
dish, and garnish it with some sort of ice, which should be shaped like
a truncated cone. Cover with meringue; set a small case on the top,
made from meringue, as explained under No. 2471, but round instead of
oval; conceal all but its inside with meringue, decorating the omelet
in so doing, and set to brown quickly.
When about to serve, pour a glassful of heated rum into the meringue
case and set it alight.
2474—SYLPHS’ OMELET
Dip a freshly-cooked savarin into a syrup of maraschino, and stick it
on a base of dry paste exactly equal in size.
In the centre of the savarin set a cushion of _Génoise_ sufficiently
thick to reach half-way up the former.
At the last moment, turn out upon this cushion an iced strawberry
_mousse_, made in an iced _madeleine-mould_, the diameter of which
should be that of the bore of the savarin. Cover the _mousse_ with a
coat of Italian meringue with kirsch, shaping it like a cone of which
the base rests upon the top of the savarin.
By means of a piping-bag, fitted with a small pipe, quickly decorate
the cone, as also the savarin, with the same meringue; colour it in the
oven, and serve it instantly.
2475—VARIOUS SURPRISE OMELETS
With the generic example given this kind of omelets may be indefinitely
varied by changing the ice preparation inside.
The superficial appearance remains the same, but every change in the
inside garnish should be made known in the title of the dish.
=Pannequets.=
2476—PANNEQUETS WITH JAM
Prepare some very thin pancakes; coat them with some kind of jam, roll
them up, trim them aslant at either end, and cut them into two lozenges.
Place these lozenges on a tray, sprinkle them with icing sugar, set
them to glaze in a fierce oven, and dish them on a napkin.
2477—PANNEQUETS A LA CRÈME
Coat the pancakes with frangipan cream, and sprinkle the latter with
crushed macaroons. For the rest of the procedure follow No. 2476.
2478—PANNEQUETS MERINGUÉS
Coat the pancakes with Italian meringue, flavoured with kirsch and
maraschino; roll them up, cut them into lozenges as above, and set
them on a tray. Decorate them by means of the piping-bag with the
same meringue; sprinkle them with icing sugar, and set them to colour
quickly in the oven.
2479—PUDDINGS
English puddings are almost innumerable; but many of them lie more
within the pastrycook’s than the cook’s province, and their enumeration
here could not serve a very useful purpose. The name Pudding is,
moreover, applied to a whole host of preparations which are really
nothing more than custards—as, for example, “custard pudding.” If both
of the foregoing kinds of puddings be passed over, puddings proper
which belong to hot sweets may be divided into eight classes, of
which I shall first give the generic recipes, from which all pudding
entremets given hereafter are derived. The eight classes are:—
(1) Puddings with cream.
(2) Fruit puddings.
(3) English fruit puddings.
(4) Plum puddings.
(5) French and German bread puddings.
(6) English and French paste puddings.
(7) Rice puddings.
(8) Souffléd puddings.
Puddings allow of various accompanying sauces, which will be given in
each recipe. The majority of English puddings may be accompanied by
stewed fruit, Melba sauce, or whipped cream “à la Chantilly.”
=Puddings with Cream.=
2480—ALMOND PUDDING
Make a preparation for souffléd pudding (No. 2505), moistened with
almond milk. Pour it into copiously-buttered moulds, sprinkled inside
with splintered and grilled almonds.
Set to poach in the _bain-marie_. As an accompaniment serve a sabayon
prepared with white wine and flavoured with _orgeat_.
2481—ENGLISH ALMOND PUDDING
Mix to the consistence of a pomade four oz. of butter and five oz. of
powdered sugar; add eight oz. of finely-chopped almonds, a pinch of
table salt, a half table-spoonful of orange-flower water, two eggs, two
egg-yolks, and one-sixth pint of cream. Pour this preparation into a
buttered pie-dish, and cook in a _bain-marie_ in the oven.
N.B.—English puddings of what kind soever are served in the dishes or
basins in which they have cooked.
2482—BISCUIT PUDDING
Crush eight oz. of lady’s-finger biscuits in a saucepan, and moisten
them with one pint of boiling milk containing five oz. of sugar. Stir
the whole over the fire, and add five oz. of candied fruit, cut into
dice and mixed with currants (both products having been macerated in
kirsch), three egg-yolks, four oz. of melted butter, and the white of
five eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
Set to poach in a _bain-marie_, in a low, even Charlotte mould, or in a
pie-dish, and serve an apricot sauce at the same time.
2483—CABINET PUDDING
Garnish a buttered cylinder-mould with lady’s-finger biscuits or
slices of buttered biscuit, saturated with some kind of liqueur;
arranging them in alternate layers with a _salpicon_ of candied fruit
and currants, macerated in liqueur. Here and there spread a little
apricot jam.
Fill up the mould, little by little, with preparation No. 2639,
flavoured according to fancy. Poach in a _bain-marie_.
Turn out the pudding at the last moment, and coat it with English
custard flavoured with vanilla.
2484—FRUIT PUDDING
This pudding requires very careful treatment. The custard which serves
as its base is the same as that of Cabinet Pudding, except that it is
thickened by seven eggs and seven egg-yolks per quart of milk. This
preparation is, moreover, combined with a purée of fruit suited to the
pudding.
_Procedure_: Butter a mould; set it in a _bain-marie_, and pour a few
table-spoonfuls of the above preparation into it. Let it set, and upon
this set custard sprinkle a layer of suitable fruit, sliced. This fruit
may be apricots, peaches, pears, etc. Cover the fruit with a fresh coat
of custard, but more copiously than in the first case; let this custard
set as before; cover it with fruit, and proceed in the same order until
the mould is full.
It is, in short, another form of aspic-jelly preparation, but hot
instead of cold. If the solidification of the layers of custard were
not ensured, the fruit would fall to the bottom of the mould instead
of remaining distributed between the layers of custard, and the result
would be the collapse of the pudding as soon as it was turned out.
Continue the cooking in the _bain-marie_; let the preparation stand a
few minutes before turning it out, and serve at the same time a sauce
made from the same fruit as that used for the pudding.
=English Fruit Puddings.=
2485—APPLE PUDDING
Prepare a suet paste from one lb. of flour, ten oz. of finely-chopped
suet, quarter of a pint of water and a pinch of salt.
Let the paste rest for an hour, and roll it out to a thickness of
one-third of an inch.
With this layer of paste, line a well-buttered dome-mould or large
pudding-basin. Garnish with sliced apples mixed with powdered sugar and
flavoured with a chopped piece of lemon peel.
Close the mould with a well-sealed-down layer of paste; wrap the mould
in a piece of linen, which should be firmly fastened with string;
plunge it into a saucepan containing boiling water, and in the case of
a quart pudding-basin or mould, let it cook for about three hours.
N.B.—This pudding may be made with other fleshy fruit, as also with
certain vegetables such as the pumpkin, etc.
2486—PLUM PUDDING
Put into a basin one lb. of chopped suet; one lb. of bread-crumb;
half lb. of flour; half lb. of peeled and chopped apples; half lb.
each of Malaga raisins, currants and sultanas; two oz. each of candied
orange, lemon and cedrat rinds, cut into small dice; two oz. of ginger;
four oz. of chopped almonds; eight oz. of powdered sugar; the juice
and the chopped rind of half an orange and half a lemon; one-third oz.
of mixed spices, containing a large quantity of cinnamon; three eggs;
quarter of a pint of rum or brandy, and one-third of a pint of stout.
The fruit should, if possible, have previously macerated in liqueur for
a long time.
Thoroughly mix the whole.
Pour the preparation into white earthenware pudding-basins, with
projecting rims; press it into them, and then wrap them in a buttered
and flour-dusted cloth which tie into a knot on top.
Cook in boiling water or in steam for four hours.
When about to serve, sprinkle the puddings with heated brandy or rum,
and set them alight, or accompany them, either with a sabayon with rum,
with Brandy Butter (as directed under “Gil-Blas pancakes” but without
sugar), or with an English custard thickened with arrowroot.
2487—AMERICAN PUDDING
Put into a basin two and a half oz. of bread-crumb; three oz. of
powdered sugar; three oz. of flour; two and a half oz. of marrow and
an equal quantity of suet (both chopped); three oz. of candied fruit
cut into dice; one egg and three egg-yolks, a pinch of chopped orange
or lemon zest; a little nutmeg and cinnamon, and a liqueur-glassful of
brandy or rum.
Mix up the whole; pour the preparation into a buttered and dredged
mould or basin, and cook in the _bain-marie_.
Serve a sabayon with rum at the same time.
2488—MARROW PUDDING
Melt half a lb. of beef-marrow and two oz. of suet, in a _bain-marie_,
and let it get tepid. Then work this grease in a basin with half a lb.
of powdered sugar; three oz. of bread-crumbs, dipped in milk and
pressed; three whole eggs and eight egg-yolks; half a lb. of candied
fruit, cut into dice; three oz. of sultanas and two oz. of pipped,
Malaga raisins.
Pour this preparation into an even, deep, buttered and dredged
border-mould; and poach in the _bain-marie_.
Serve a sabayon with rum at the same time.
=Bread Puddings.=
2489—ENGLISH BREAD PUDDING
Butter some thin slices of crumb of bread and distribute over them some
currants and sultanas, swelled in tepid water and well drained. Set
these slices in a pie-dish; cover with preparation No. 2638, and poach
in front of the oven.
2490—FRENCH BREAD PUDDING
Soak two-thirds of a lb. of white bread-crumb in one and three-quarter
pints of boiled milk, flavoured with vanilla and containing eight oz.
of sugar. Rub through a sieve and add: four whole eggs, six egg-yolks,
and four egg-whites, beaten to a stiff froth.
Pour this preparation into a deep, buttered border-mould, dusted with
bread-crumbs; and poach in _bain-marie_.
As an accompaniment, serve either an English custard, a
vanilla-flavoured sabayon, or a fruit sauce.
2491—GERMAN BREAD PUDDING
Soak two-thirds of a lb. of brown bread-crumb in one and three quarter
pints of Rhine wine, Moselle or beer, containing half a lb. of moist
sugar and a little cinnamon. Rub through a sieve and add four eggs,
six egg-yolks, five oz. of melted butter, and the whites of four eggs
beaten to a froth. Poach in a _bain-marie_ as in the preceding case.
The adjunct to this pudding is invariably a fruit syrup.
2492—SCOTCH BREAD PUDDING
Proceed exactly as for No. 2490, but add five oz. of sliced seasonable
fruit. Mould and poach in the same way, and serve a red-currant sauce
flavoured with raspberries, as an accompaniment.
=Paste Puddings.=
2493—TAPIOCA
Sprinkle eight oz. of tapioca into one and three-quarter pints of
boiling milk, containing four oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt and
three oz. of butter.
Cook in the oven for twenty minutes; transfer the preparation to
another saucepan, and add to it six egg-yolks, two and a half oz. of
butter, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
Pour the whole into a well-buttered cylinder-mould, sprinkled with
tapioca, and poach in the _bain-marie_ until the preparation seems
resilient to the touch. Let the pudding stand for seven or eight
minutes before turning it out. Serve an English custard, a sabayon or a
fruit sauce as accompaniment.
2494—SAGO PUDDING
Proceed as above, but substitute sago for the tapioca, and sprinkle the
inside of the mould with sago. The treatment and adjuncts are the same.
2495—SEMOLINA PUDDING
Proceed as for No. 2493, but use semolina instead of tapioca, and
sprinkle the mould with granulated semolina.
2496—VERMICELLI PUDDING
Proceed as for No. 2493, but use vermicelli, and sprinkle the mould
with bits of vermicelli, which should not be broken up overmuch.
2497—FRESH-NOODLE PUDDING
Proceed in exactly the same way as for No. 2493.
2498—ENGLISH TAPIOCA, SAGO, AND SEMOLINA PUDDINGS, ETC.
Whatever be the paste used, it should be cooked in very slightly-sugared
milk, flavoured according to fancy, and in the quantities given above.
Thicken by means of two eggs per pint of the preparation; pour the whole
into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in the oven in a _bain-marie_.
N.B.—All English puddings of this class are made in the same way, and,
as already stated, are served in the dish in which they have cooked.
2499—BRAZILIAN PUDDING
Make the preparation for tapioca pudding and pour it into a mould,
_clothed_ with sugar cooked to the _caramel_ stage.
Poach in a _bain-marie_ and serve plain.
2500—CHEVREUSE PUDDING
This is semolina pudding served with a Sabayon, flavoured with kirsch.
2501—RICE PUDDING
Prepare the rice as directed under No. 2404, and mix with it (per lb.
of raw rice) the whites of fifteen eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Mould
in buttered moulds sprinkled with raspings.
The cooking and the adjuncts are the same as for Nos. 2493, 2494, etc.
2502—ENGLISH RICE PUDDING
The quantities for this pudding are: six oz. of rice, one quart of
milk (flavoured according to fancy), two oz. of sugar and three oz. of
butter. The grains of rice should be kept somewhat firm, but the whole
should be rather liquid. Thicken with three eggs; cook the preparation
in the oven, in a pie-dish; and on taking the pudding out of the oven
sprinkle its surface with icing sugar.
2503—RICE AND CHOCOLATE PUDDING
Add two oz. of chocolate to every lb. of the preparation of rice, made
after No. 2404, and combine therewith the whites of three eggs beaten
to a fairly stiff froth; pour the preparation into a buttered pie-dish,
and cook in the oven.
Serve some chocolate custard (combined with its bulk of whisked cream)
separately.
N.B.—This sweet may be served hot or cold.
=Souffléd Puddings.=
2504—SAXON PUDDING
Work four oz. of butter to a pomade in a basin. Add four oz. of
powdered sugar and four oz. of sifted flour, and dilute with two-thirds
pint of boiled milk.
Boil this preparation, stirring it the while; and dry it over a fierce
fire as in the case of a panada for a “Pâte à choux.”
Take off the fire; thicken with five egg-yolks; and then carefully
mix with it the five whites beaten to a stiff froth. Pour into
well-buttered moulds, and poach in a _bain-marie_.
As an accompaniment serve an English custard or a Sabayon, flavoured
according to fancy.
2505—ALMOND SOUFFLÉD PUDDING
Make a preparation as for No. 2504, but use almond milk instead of
cow’s milk. Pour the preparation into buttered moulds, sprinkled with
splintered and grilled almonds, and poach in a _bain-marie_.
As an accompaniment serve a white-wine Sabayon flavoured with _orgeat_.
2506—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING, DENISE
Finely pound four oz. of freshly-washed and peeled almonds, and add
thereto, from time to time, a few drops of fresh water. When the
almonds form a smooth paste, add the necessary quantity of water to
them to produce one pint of milk. Strain through muslin and slightly
twist the latter in order to express all the contained liquid.
With this almond milk, dilute three oz. of flour and three oz. of rice
cream, mixed in a saucepan, and take care that no lumps form. Strain
the whole through a strainer, and add five oz. of sugar, three oz. of
butter and a little salt.
Set the saucepan on the fire; boil, stirring the while, and then
stir briskly with a spatula until the preparation acquires the
consistence of a thick paste and falls from the spatula without leaving
any adhering portions. Pour this paste into a basin and combine
therewith: first, little by little, two oz. of fresh butter; then,
eight egg-yolks, two ounces of finely-pounded almonds moistened with a
tablespoonful of kirsch and as much maraschino, and the whites of five
eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
This pudding is cooked in a _bain-marie_ in one of the following ways:
(1) In a buttered pie dish. In this case, on taking the pudding out
of the _bain-marie_, sprinkle its surface with icing sugar, and
criss-cross it with a red-hot iron.
(2) In a shallow, buttered and dredged, Charlotte-mould.
(3) In fairly shallow, buttered dome-moulds, lined inside with roundels
one inch in diameter, stamped (by means of a fancy-cutter) out of a
layer of _Génoise_ or a layer of “lady’s-finger-biscuit” preparation,
about one-third of an inch thick.
In the two last cases, the pudding is coated with an apricot sauce,
mixed with almond milk, and a sauceboat of the same sauce is served
separately.
2507—LEMON SOUFFLÉD PUDDING
Make the preparation for No. 2504, and flavour it with a piece of lemon
rind. The treatment is the same.
Serve an English custard, flavoured with lemon separately.
2508—ORANGE, CURAÇAO, ANISETTE, AND BÉNÉDICTINE PUDDINGS, ETC.
For all these puddings the procedure is the same as for No. 2504, and
only the flavour changes.
Accompany each with an English custard, flavoured like the particular
pudding.
2509—INDIAN SOUFFLÉD PUDDING
Take some souffléd-pudding preparation and add to it two oz. of
powdered ginger, and five oz. of candied ginger, cut into dice. Proceed
in the same way as for No. 2504.
As an accompaniment, serve an English custard flavoured with ginger.
2510—CHESTNUT SOUFFLÉD PUDDING
Cook two lbs. of peeled chestnuts in a light, vanilla-flavoured syrup.
Rub them through a sieve, add five oz. of powdered sugar and three oz.
of butter to the purée, and dry it over a fierce fire. Thicken it with
eight egg-yolks and finish it with the whites of six eggs, beaten to a
stiff froth.
Poach in buttered moulds in a _bain-marie_.
As an accompaniment, serve, either an English custard, or a
vanilla-flavoured apricot syrup.
2511—MOUSSELINE PUDDING
Work four oz. of butter and four oz. of powdered sugar to a pomade,
and add the yolks of ten eggs, one by one; meanwhile stirring the
preparation.
Set the latter on a moderate fire until it veneers the withdrawn spoon;
then immediately add the whites of seven eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
Pour the whole into a deep, buttered border-mould, which only half
fill, in view of the subsequent expansion of the preparation while
cooking.
Poach in a _bain-marie_ for about thirty minutes, and let the pudding
stand for ten minutes before turning it out.
As an accompaniment serve a light Sabayon or a fruit sauce.
2512—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA RÉGENCE
Make a _souffléd_-pudding preparation flavoured with vanilla, and
poach it in a _bain-marie_, in a mould _clothed_ with sugar cooked to
the _caramel_ stage. Serve an English custard, prepared with caramel,
separately.
2513—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA REINE
Take some vanilla-flavoured, _souffléd_-pudding preparation. Take a
mould with a central tube; butter it, and besprinkle it with chopped
pistachios and crushed macaroons. Set the preparation in the mould
in layers, alternated by coats of chopped pistachios and crushed
macaroons; and poach in a _bain-marie_.
As an accompaniment serve an English custard combined with _pralin_.
2514—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA ROYALE
Line the bottom and sides of a buttered Charlotte-mould with thin
slices of biscuit spread with jam and rolled up. Garnish the mould with
a _souffléd_-pudding preparation, and poach in a _bain-marie_.
Serve an apricot sauce flavoured with Marsala, separately.
2515—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING SANS-SOUCI
Copiously butter a mould, and sprinkle its bottom and sides with
well-washed currants. Garnish with a _souffléd_-pudding preparation,
combined per two lbs. with one lb. of peeled apples, cut into dice and
cooked in butter.
Poach in a _bain-marie_.
2516—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING A LA VESUVIENNE
Make a _souffléd_-pudding preparation, and add to it for the quantities
given in the original recipe one and a half oz. of tomato jam and the
same quantity of pipped Malaga raisins. Poach in a _bain-marie_ in a
mould with a central tube.
When the pudding is turned out, surround it with apricot sauce, and
pour in the middle some heated rum, which light when serving.
2517—ROLY-POLY PUDDING
Proceed as for No. 2361: prepare a firm paste from one lb. of flour,
nine oz. of chopped suet, one and a half oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt,
and one-sixth pint of water. Let this paste rest for one hour before
using it.
Roll it out to the shape of a rectangle one-fifth of an inch thick;
spread a layer of jam upon it, and roll it up like a Swiss roll.
Wrap it in a buttered and dredged cloth, and cook it in boiling water
or in steam for one and a half hours.
When about to serve, cut the roll into roundels half an inch thick, and
dish them in a crown. As an accompaniment serve a fruit sauce.
2518—RISSOLES