CHAPTER XVIII

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS

The preparatory treatment of vegetables—parboiling and braising,

&c.—having been explained in Chapter X., as also the preparation of

purées, creams, and vegetable garnishes, it is now only necessary

to deal with each vegetable separately.

=Artichokes (Artichauts)=

2028—ARTICHAUTS A LA BARIGOULE

Take some very fresh and tender artichokes. After having trimmed

their tops, take off the outermost leaves; parboil the artichokes;

remove their hearts, and completely clear them of their chokes. Season

them inside, and fill them with a preparation of Duxelles (No. 224),

combined with a quarter of its weight of fresh, grated, fat bacon, and

as much butter.

Wrap the stuffed artichokes in thin slices of bacon; string them, and

set them in a saucepan prepared for braising. Braise them gently with

white wine, and cook them well.

When about to serve them, remove the string and the bacon, and dish

them.

Strain the braising-liquor, and clear it of grease; thicken it with the

necessary quantity of good half-glaze sauce; reduce it sufficiently

to produce only a very little sauce, and pour the latter over the

artichokes.

2029—CŒURS D’ARTICHAUTS A LA CLAMART

Select some very tender small artichokes, and trim them.

Set them in a buttered _cocotte_, with a small quartered carrot and

three tablespoonfuls of freshly-shelled peas to each artichoke, add a

large faggot and a little water, and salt moderately. Cover and cook

gently in a steamer. When about to serve, withdraw the faggot, and

slightly thicken the liquor with a little _manied_ butter.

Serve the preparation in the _cocotte_.

2030—ARTICHOKES WITH DIVERS SAUCES

Cut the artichokes evenly to within two-thirds of their height; trim

them all round; string them, and plunge them into slightly-salted

boiling water. Cook them rather quickly; drain them well, just before

serving them, and remove the string.

Dish on a napkin, and send a butter, a Hollandaise, or a mousseline

sauce, &c., at the same time.

When artichokes, cooked in this way, have to be served cold, remove

their chokes, dish them on a napkin, and send a Vinaigrette sauce

separately.

2031—ARTICHAUTS A LA PROVENÇALE

Select some very small Provençal artichokes; trim them, and put them in

an earthenware stewpan containing some very hot oil. Season with salt

and pepper; cover the stewpan, and leave to cook for about ten minutes.

Then add, for each twelve artichokes, one pint of very tender,

freshly-shelled peas, and a coarse _julienne_ of one lettuce.

Cover once more, and cook gently without moistening. The moisture of

the peas and the lettuce suffices for the moistening, provided the

stewpan be well covered and the fire be not too fierce—both of which

conditions are necessary to prevent evaporation on too large a scale.

2032—QUARTIERS D’ARTICHAUTS A L’ITALIENNE

Turn, trim, and quarter some fair-sized artichokes. Trim the quarters,

removing the chokes therefrom; rub them with a piece of lemon to

prevent their blackening; plunge them one by one into fresh water;

parboil and drain them. This done, set them in a sautépan on a litter

of aromatics, as for braising; make them sweat in the oven for seven or

eight minutes; moisten with white wine; reduce the latter; and moisten

again, to within half their height, with brown stock. Cook gently in

the oven until the quarters are very tender.

When about to serve, set them in a vegetable dish; strain the

cooking-liquor; clear it of grease, and reduce it; add an Italian sauce

to it, and pour this sauce over the quartered artichokes.

2033—FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS FARCIS

Select some medium-sized artichokes; clear them of their leaves and

their chokes; trim their bottoms, rub them with lemon to prevent their

blackening, and cook them in a Blanc (No. 167), keeping them somewhat

firm.

After having drained them, stuff them with a little Duxelles, prepared

according to No. 224. Arrange them on a buttered dish; sprinkle the

Duxelles with fine raspings and a little melted butter, and set in a

hot oven for a _gratin_ to form.

Serve a Madeira sauce at the same time.

2034—FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS A LA FLORENTINE

Prepare the artichoke-bottoms as above.

Meanwhile fry a large, chopped onion in butter; add thereto

two-thirds lb. of parboiled and chopped spinach per twelve artichokes.

Stir over an open fire, that all moisture may evaporate, and add

salt and pepper, a piece of crushed garlic the size of a pea, a

tablespoonful of anchovy purée, and two tablespoonfuls of Velouté. Cook

gently for ten minutes.

Stuff the artichoke-bottoms with this preparation; arrange them on

a buttered dish; coat with Mornay sauce; sprinkle with Gruyère, cut

_brunoise-fashion_, and set to glaze in a fierce oven.

Upon withdrawing the dish from the oven, sprinkle the artichoke-bottoms

with a few drops of melted anchovy butter.

2035—FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS AUX POINTES D’ASPERGES

Prepare the artichoke-bottoms as above; stew them in butter, and

garnish them with asparagus-heads, cohered with cream, and heaped in

pyramid-form.

Lay them on a buttered dish; coat with Mornay sauce, and set to glaze

quickly.

2036—FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS SAUTÉS

Remove the leaves and the chokes from the artichokes, trim the bottoms,

and slice them up raw. Season them with salt and pepper; toss them in

butter; set them in a vegetable-dish, and sprinkle them with herbs.

2037—PURÉE OU CRÈME D’ARTICHAUTS

Take some very tender artichokes; trim and turn the bottoms, and

half-cook them, keeping them very white. Complete their cooking in

butter, and rub them through a fine sieve, together with the butter

used in cooking.

Put the purée thus obtained in a saucepan, and add to it the half of

its bulk of mashed, very smooth, and creamy potatoes.

Finish the purée with a little fresh and a little hazel-nut butter, the

latter being used to increase the flavour of the artichokes.

2038—ASPARAGUS (Asperges)

The best-known varieties of asparagus in England are:—

1. The Lauris asparagus, which is par excellence the early-season kind.

2. The green, Parisian asparagus, which is very small, and of which the

most diminutive sticks, also called sprew, serve for garnishes.

3. The Argenteuil asparagus—very much in demand while it is in season.

4. English asparagus, which is somewhat delicate in quality, but

inclined to be small. During the season there are, besides, several

other kinds of asparagus imported from Spain or France, which, though

not equal to the four kinds above mentioned, may nevertheless be used

for soups or garnishes instead of asparagus-heads or sprew.

Asparagus should be had as fresh as possible; it should be cleaned

with care, quickly washed, tied into faggots, and cooked in plenty of

salted water. Certain kinds, the flavour of which is somewhat bitter,

should be transferred to other water as soon as cooked, with the view

of reducing their bitterness.

Asparagus is dished on special silver drainers, or on napkins.

2039—ASPERGES A LA FLAMANDE

According to Flemish custom, asparagus is served with one hot,

hard-boiled half-egg, and one oz. of melted butter per person. The

egg-yolk is crushed, seasoned, and finished with the butter by the

consumers themselves. This accompaniment may also be prepared

beforehand and served in a sauceboat.

2040—ASPERGES AU GRATIN

Dish the asparagus in rows, and coat the heads of each row with a

little Mornay sauce. When all are dished, two-thirds cover the bunch

with a band of buttered paper, and coat the uncovered portion with

Mornay sauce. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan; glaze quickly at the

salamander, remove the paper, and serve at once.

2041—ASPERGES A LA MILANAISE

Having thoroughly drained the asparagus, set it on a long, buttered

dish sprinkled with grated Parmesan; arrange it in successive rows,

each of which sprinkle in the region of the heads with grated Parmesan.

When about to serve, cover the cheese-powdered parts copiously with

nut-brown butter, and set to glaze slightly at the salamander.

2042—ASPERGES A LA POLONAISE

Thoroughly drain the asparagus; set it on a long dish, in rows, and

besprinkle the heads with hard-boiled egg-yolk and chopped parsley,

mixed. When about to serve, cover the heads with nut-brown butter,

combined with one oz. of very fresh and fine bread-crumbs per four oz.

of butter.

2043—ASPARAGUS WITH VARIOUS SAUCES

Butter sauce, Hollandaise, _Mousseline_, and Maltese sauces are the

most usual adjuncts to asparagus. Béarnaise sauce without herbs is also

served occasionally, likewise melted butter.

When eaten cold, it may be served with oil and vinegar or a

mayonnaise—more particularly a Chantilly mayonnaise, _i.e._, one to

which beaten cream has been added.

2044—SPREW WITH BUTTER (Pointes d’Asperges)

Sprew or green asparagus is chiefly used for garnishing or as a

garnishing ingredient, but it may also be served as a vegetable with

perfect propriety. Cut the heads into two-inch lengths, and put them

together in faggots.

Cut what remains of them into bits the size of peas. After having

washed the latter, plunge them into boiling salted water, and cook them

quickly, that they may keep green.

This done, thoroughly drain them; let their moisture evaporate by

tossing them over the fire; cohere them with butter, away from the

fire, and dish them in a timbale with the faggots on top.

They are usually served in small patty crusts, or in small tartlet

crusts, with a few sprew tops on each small patty or tartlet.

2045—POINTES D’ASPERGES A LA CRÈME

Prepare them, and cook them in salted water as above.

Their cohesion with cream is in pursuance of the procedure common to

other vegetables similarly prepared, and they are served like those of

No. 2044.

=Egg-Plant (Aubergines)=

2046—AUBERGINES A L’ÉGYPTIENNE

Cut them into two lengthwise; trim them round the edges; _cisel_ the

middle of each with the view of facilitating the cooking process, and

cook them.

Drain them; remove the pulp from their insides, and set the shells on a

buttered _gratin_ dish.

This done, chop up the withdrawn pulp; add thereto a little chopped

onion cooked in oil, and the same quantity of very lean, chopped, and

cooked mutton as there is egg-plant pulp.

Fill the egg-plant shells with this preparation; sprinkle with a few

drops of oil, and set in the oven for fifteen minutes. On withdrawing

the dish from the oven, set on each egg-plant a few roundels of tomato,

tossed in oil; sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve.

2047—AUBERGINES AU GRATIN

Fry the egg-plants as above; empty them, chop up their pulps, and add

to it an equal weight of dry Duxelles (No. 223). Garnish the shells

with this preparation, set them on a _gratin_ dish, sprinkle them with

raspings and a few drops of oil, and cause the _gratin_ to form.

Surround the egg-plants with a border of light half-glaze sauce when

serving.

2048—AUBERGINES FRITES

Cut the egg-plants into thin roundels; season and dredge them, and fry

them in smoking oil. Dish them on a napkin, and serve immediately, that

they may be eaten crisp. If they wait at all, they soften, and thereby

lose quality.

2049—AUBERGINES A LA PROVENÇALE

Proceed as for No. 2047, but replace the Duxelles by tomatoes tossed in

oil and flavoured with a little garlic.

Set the _gratin_ to form in the same way, and surround the egg-plants

with a border of tomato sauce when taking them out of the oven.

2050—AUBERGINES SOUFFLÉES

Cut some fine egg-plants into two; _cisel_ them, and fry them in the

usual way; remove the pulp from their insides, and set the shells on

a buttered _gratin_ dish. Finely chop the withdrawn pulp, and mix

therewith an equal quantity of reduced Béchamel sauce, combined with

grated Parmesan.

Add some white of egg beaten to a stiff froth, allowing as much of it

as for an ordinary _soufflé_.

Garnish the egg-plant shells with this preparation, and cook in a

moderate oven, as for ordinary _soufflé_. On withdrawing the dish from

the oven, serve instantly.

2051—AUBERGINES A LA TURQUE

Peel the egg-plants and cut them, each lengthwise, into six slices.

Season, dredge, and fry these slices in oil; pair them off, and join

them together by means of a very firm preparation of raw egg-yolks and

grated, fresh cheese. When about to serve, dip them into batter, and

fry them in smoking oil.

Dish on a napkin with very green fried parsley.

These stuffed slices of egg-plant may be treated _à l’anglaise_ instead

of with batter.

2052—CARDOONS (Cardons)

_Treatment and Cooking Process._—After having suppressed the green

outside leaf-stalks, detach the white ones all round, and cut these

into three-inch lengths. Peel these lengths, rub them with lemon, that

they may not blacken, and throw them, one by one, into fresh acidulated

water.

Prepare the heart of the cardoon in the same way, after having

withdrawn the fibrous parts, and cook the whole in a Blanc (No. 167),

with one lb. of chopped veal fat, sprinkled over its surface, that the

cardoon may be kept from blackening by exposure to the air.

Cook gently for about one and one-half hours.

2053—CARDONS AU PARMESAN

After having well drained the sections, build them into a pyramid

in successive layers. Sprinkle each row with a few drops of good

half-glaze sauce, and with grated Parmesan. Cover the whole with the

same sauce; sprinkle with grated Parmesan, and set to glaze quickly.

2054—CARDONS A LA MORNAY

Proceed exactly as above, but replace half-glaze sauce by Mornay sauce.

Glaze quickly, and serve immediately.

2055—CARDONS A LA MILANAISE

Proceed as for “Asperges à la Milanaise” (No. 2041).

2056—CARDONS WITH VARIOUS SAUCES

They may be served either with gravy, or Half-glaze, Cream,

Hollandaise, _Mousseline_, Italienne, or Bordelaise sauces.

The sauce is either poured over them or served separately.

If the sauce be poured over the cardoons, they are dished in a timbale;

if the sauce be sent separately, they may be served on a silver

drainer, like asparagus.

2057—CARDONS A LA MOELLE

Dish the cardoons in a pyramid on a round dish; cover them with a

marrow sauce (No. 45), and surround them with very small puff-paste

patties garnished with poached marrow dice. Or dish the cardoons in a

timbale, and set thereon the heart cut into roundels and arranged in a

crown, with a slice of poached marrow on each roundel of heart.

Cover the whole with marrow sauce.

2058—CŒUR DE CARDON AUX FINES HERBES

Having cooked the heart of the cardoon, trim it all round so as to give

it the cylindrical shape, and cut it laterally into roundels one-third

inch thick.

Roll these roundels in some pale, thin, buttered meat glaze, combined

with chopped herbs. Prepared in this way, the heart of a cardoon

constitutes an excellent garnish for Tournedos and _sautéd_ chickens.

=Carrots (Carottes)=

2059—CAROTTES GLACÉES POUR GARNITURES

New carrots are not parboiled; they are turned, whole, halved, or

quartered, according to their size, and then trimmed. If old, they

should be turned to the shape of elongated olives, and parboiled before

being set to cook.

Put the carrots in a saucepan with enough water to cover them well,

one-half oz. of salt, one oz. of sugar, and two oz. of butter per pint

of water.

Cook until the water has almost entirely evaporated, so that the

reduction may have the consistence of a syrup. _Sauté_ the carrots in

this reduction, that they may be covered with a brilliant coat.

Whatever be the ultimate purpose for which the carrots are intended,

they should be prepared in this way.

2060—CAROTTES A LA CRÈME

Prepare the carrots as above, and, when the moistening is reduced to

the consistence of a syrup, cover them with boiling cream.

Sufficiently reduce the latter, and dish in a timbale.

2061—CAROTTES A LA VICHY

Slice the carrots, and, if they be old, parboil them.

Treat them exactly after the manner of the “Glazed Carrots” of

No. 2059; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle them with chopped

parsley.

2062—PURÉE DE CAROTTES

Slice the carrots, and cook them in slightly-salted water, with sugar

and butter, as for “Glazed Carrots,” and a quarter of their weight of

rice. Drain them as soon as they are cooked; rub them through a fine

sieve; transfer the purée to a sautépan, and dry it over a fierce fire,

together with three oz. of butter per lb. of purée.

Now add a sufficient quantity of either milk or consommé to give it the

consistence of an ordinary purée. Dish in a timbale with triangular

_croûtons_ of bread-crumbs, fried in butter at the last moment.

This purée is very commonly served as a garnish with braised pieces of

veal.

2063—FLAN AUX CAROTTES

This is served either as a vegetable or a sweet.

Line a flawn ring with good, short paste (No. 2358); coat the inside of

the flawn with a round piece of paper, and fill it with rice or split

peas. Bake it without letting it brown; remove the split peas or the

rice, as also the paper, and garnish the flawn crust with a slightly

sugared purée of carrots. Cover this purée with half-discs of carrot

cooked as for No. 2059, and kept unbroken. Coat with the cooking-liquor

of the carrots reduced to a syrup, and put the flawn in the oven for

five minutes.

2064—CELERY (Céleri)

Celery for braising should be non-fibrous, white, and very tender.

Cut the sticks till they measure only eight inches from their roots;

remove the green leaves all round; trim the root; wash with great care,

parboil for one-quarter hour, and cool.

This done, braise them after recipe No. 275. When they are cooked, cut

each stick into three pieces, and double up each section before dishing

and serving.

2065—VARIOUS PREPARATIONS OF CELERY

The recipes given for cardoons may be applied to celery. On referring

to the respective recipes, therefore, celery may be prepared:—

_Au Parmesan_, _Sauce Mornay_, _à la Milanaise_, _Italienne_,

_Hollandaise_, with gravy, &c.

2066—PURÉE DE CÉLERI

Slice the celery; parboil it, and stew it, until it is quite cooked, in

a little very fat consommé.

Drain as soon as cooked; rub through a sieve, adding the while the

cooking-liquor cleared of all grease; thicken the purée with about one

quart of very white and firm potato purée; heat; add butter at the last

moment, and dish in a timbale.

2067—PURÉE DE CÉLERI-RAVE (Celeriac)

Peel the celeriac; cut it into sections, and cook it in salted water.

Drain and rub it through tammy, adding plain-boiled, quartered potatoes

the while in the proportion of one-third of the weight of the purée of

celeriac.

Put the purée in a sautépan; add to it three oz. of butter per lb.; dry

it over a fierce fire, and bring it to its normal consistence by means

of milk. When about to serve, add butter, away from the fire, and dish

in a timbale.

=Cèpes=

Those _cèpes_ which are barely opened or not opened at all are not

parboiled. Contrariwise, those which are open should be washed,

parboiled, and stewed in butter, after having been well dried.

2068—CÈPES A LA BORDELAISE

Collop the _cèpes_; season them with salt and pepper; put them into

very hot oil, and toss them until they are thoroughly frizzled.

Almost at the last moment add, per one-half lb. of _cèpes_, one oz.

of _cèpe_ stalks, which should have been put aside and chopped

up, one teaspoonful of chopped shallots, and a tablespoonful of

bread-crumbs—the object of which is to absorb any excess of oil, once

the _cèpes_ have been served.

Toss the whole together for a few minutes; dish in a timbale, and

complete with a few drops of lemon juice and some chopped parsley.

2069—CÈPES A LA CRÈME

Collop the _cèpes_, and stew them in butter with a dessertspoonful of

chopped onion per one-half lb. of _cèpes_; the onion should have been

cooked in butter, without colouration.

When they are stewed, drain them; cover them with boiling cream, and

boil gently until the latter is completely reduced. At the last moment

finish with a little thin cream, and dish in a timbale.

2070—CÈPES A LA PROVENÇALE

Proceed as for No. 2068, but substitute for the shallots some chopped

onion and a mite of crushed garlic.

Dish in a timbale, and complete with a few drops of lemon juice and

some chopped parsley.

2071—CÈPES A LA ROSSINI

Proceed as for No. 2069, and add to the _cèpes_ one-third of their

weight of thickly-sliced, raw truffles, stewed at the same time as the

former. When about to serve, finish with a little pale melted meat

glaze, and dish in a timbale.

=Mushrooms (Champignons)=

Cookery includes under this head only the white Parisian mushroom and

the meadow mushroom, which is the kind so commonly used in England.

The other kinds are always identified by special and proper terms.

2072—CHAMPIGNONS A LA CRÈME

Proceed as described under No. 2069.

2073—CHAMPIGNONS SAUTÉS

After having washed the mushrooms, dried, and _ciseled_ them, and

seasoned them with salt and pepper, toss them with butter in a

frying-pan over a fierce fire. Sprinkle them with chopped parsley at

the last moment, and dish them in a timbale.

2074—CHAMPIGNONS GRILLÉS

Take some large Parisian or meadow mushrooms. Carefully peel them;

season them; smear them with oil, by means of a brush, and grill them

gently.

Set them on a round dish, and garnish their midst with well-softened,

Maître-d’Hôtel butter.

2075—CHAMPIGNONS FARCIS

Select some fine, medium-sized mushrooms; suppress their stalks; wash

them, and dry them well. Set them on a dish; season them; sprinkle them

with a few drops of oil; put them in the oven for five minutes, and

garnish their midst with Duxelles (No. 224) shaped like a dome, and

thickened or not with bread-crumbs.

Sprinkle the surface with fine raspings and a few drops of oil or

melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form in a somewhat fierce oven.

2076—FLAN GRILLÉ AUX CHAMPIGNONS

Line a buttered flawn-mould with good lining paste (No. 2358).

Garnish it with very fresh and barely opened English mushrooms, tossed

in butter with a little chopped onion, cohered with cream, and cooled.

Moisten the edges of the flawn-mould, and deck it with criss-cross

strips of short paste, as for a latticed apple-flawn.

_Gild_ the lattice work; bake the flawn in a very hot oven, and serve

it the moment it is withdrawn.

2077—TARTELETTES GRILLÉES AUX CHAMPIGNONS

These tartlets constitute an excellent and beautiful garnish, more

particularly for Tournedos and Noisettes. Proceed exactly as for

No. 2076, but use tartlet moulds the size of which is determined by the

dimensions of the piece or preparation which they are to accompany.

2078—TURNED AND GROOVED MUSHROOMS FOR GARNISHING

Take some very fresh mushrooms; wash and drain them quickly.

Suppress their stalks flush with their heads; turn or groove the latter

with the point of a small knife, and throw them, one by one, into a

boiling liquor prepared as follows:—

For two lbs. of mushrooms, put one-sixth pint of water, one-third oz.

of salt, two oz. of butter, and the juice of one and one-half lemons,

in a saucepan. Boil; add the mushrooms, and cook for five minutes.

Transfer to a bowl immediately, and cover with a piece of buttered

paper.

2079—PURÉE DE CHAMPIGNONS

Clean, wash, and dry two lbs. of mushrooms. Quickly peel them, and rub

them through a sieve. Put this purée of raw mushrooms into a sautépan

with two-thirds pint of reduced Béchamel sauce, and one-sixth pint of

cream. Season with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg; reduce over an open

fire for a few minutes, and finish, away from the fire, with three oz.

of best butter.

2080—MORELS (Morilles)

The Spring mushroom or Morel is the one most preferred by connoisseurs.

There are two kinds of morels—the pale and the brown kind—both

excellent, though some prefer the former to the latter, and vice versâ.

In spite of what connoisseurs may say regarding the error of washing

morels, I advocate the operation, and urge the reader to effect it

carefully, and without omitting to open out the alveolate parts, so as

to wash away any sand particles that may be lodged therein.

_The Cooking of Morels._—If they be small, leave them whole; if large,

halve or quarter them. After having properly drained them, put them in

a saucepan with two oz. of butter, the juice of a lemon, and a pinch of

salt and another of pepper per lb. of morels. Boil, and then stew for

ten or twelve minutes. Never forget that the vegetable juices produced

by the morels should be reduced and added to their accompanying sauce.

2081—MORILLES A LA CRÈME

Proceed as for _Cèpes_ and Mushrooms with Cream.

2082—MORILLES FARCIES

Select some large morels, and wash them well.

Suppress their stems; chop them up, and prepare them like a Duxelles

(No. 223).

Add to this Duxelles half of its bulk of very smooth sausage-meat.

Open the morels on one side; fill them with the prepared forcemeat, and

set them on a buttered dish, opened side nethermost.

Sprinkle with fine raspings, and use plenty of melted butter; cook for

twenty minutes in a moderate oven, and serve the dish as it stands.

2083—MORILLES A LA POULETTE

Cook them as described under No. 2080, and add them to a Poulette sauce

(No. 101), together with their cooking-liquor reduced.

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.

2084—MORILLES SAUTÉES

After having thoroughly washed the morels, dry them well in a towel,

and halve or quarter them according to their size.

Season them with salt and pepper, and _sauté_ them with butter in an

omelet-pan, over a sufficiently fierce fire, to avoid the exudation of

their vegetable moisture. Dish them in a timbale; squeeze a few drops

of lemon juice over them, and sprinkle them with chopped parsley.

2085—TOURTE DE MORILLES

Cook the morels as explained under No. 2080, and drain them well.

Reduce their cooking-liquor by a quarter, and add to it two

tablespoonfuls of very thick cream and one oz. of butter per lb. of

morels.

Heat this sauce without boiling it, toss the morels in it, and set them

in a _tourte_ crust, or merely in the centre of a crown of puff-paste,

lying on a dish.

Morels prepared in this way may also be served in a Vol-au-vent crust

(No. 2390).

2086—MOUSSERONS, ORONGES, GIROLES

These varieties of esculent fungi are not much liked in England.

The best way to prepare them is to toss them quickly in butter.

2087—BRIONNE (Chow-chow)

This excellent vegetable, which has only become known quite recently,

is beginning to be appreciated by connoisseurs. It is in season from

the end of October to the end of March—that is to say, at a time when

cucumbers and vegetable marrows are over. It greatly resembles these

last-named vegetables, and is prepared like them, while the recipes

given for cardoons may also be applied to it.

2088—CHICORY, ENDIVE AND BELGIAN CHICORY (Chicorée Frisée, Escarole,

Endive)

Three kinds of chicory are used for cooking, viz:—

1. Curled chicory, improperly termed “Endive” in England.

2. Flemish chicory, which is genuine endive in its primitive state,

_i.e._, grown in the open air. It greatly resembles Escarole.

3. Brussels chicory, or the Belgian kind; obtained from cultivating the

root of Flemish chicory in the dark.

This last kind is quite different from the first two, both with regard

to its quality and its culinary treatment, and it will be dealt with

later under the name of “Endive.”

2089—CHICORÉE A LA CRÈME

Parboil the chicory for ten minutes in plenty of boiling water. Cool

it; press the water out of it, and chop it up.

Cohere it with four and one-half oz. of pale roux per two lbs. of

chicory; moisten with one quart of consommé; season with salt and a

pinch of powdered sugar, and braise in the oven, under cover, for one

and one-half hours.

Upon withdrawing it from the oven, transfer it to another saucepan; add

three-fifths pint of cream and two oz. of butter, and dish in a timbale.

2090—PAIN DE CHICORÉE

Braise the chicory as described above.

Upon withdrawing it from the oven, mix with it (per lb.) five

stiffly-beaten eggs; put it into an even, buttered mould, and set to

poach in a _bain-marie_.

Before unmoulding the “loaf,” let it rest awhile, that the middle may

settle. Turn out just before serving, and cover with a cream sauce.

2091—PURÉE DE CHICORÉE

Braise the chicory, and rub it through a sieve. Mix it with one-third

of its bulk of smooth mashed potatoes with cream; heat; add butter away

from the fire, and dish in a timbale.

2092—SOUFFLÉ DE CHICORÉE

Braise about one-half lb. of chicory, keeping it somewhat stiff, and

rub it through a sieve. Add to it the yolks of three eggs, also two oz.

of grated Parmesan and the whites of three eggs, beaten to a stiff

froth.

Dish in a buttered timbale; sprinkle with grated Parmesan, and cook

after the manner of an ordinary _soufflé_.

N.B.—This _soufflé_ of chicory may also be cooked in small cases, and

it makes an excellent garnish for large pieces of veal or ham.

2093—CHICORÉE A LA FLAMANDE

Cut the chicory into two-inch lengths; parboil it; cool it, and then

proceed for the rest of the operation as described under No. 2089—the

only difference being that it is not chopped.

2094—ENDIVES OR BRUSSELS CHICORY

Whatever be the purpose for which they are intended, endives should

always be cooked preparatively as follows:—

After having washed and cleaned them, put them in a well-tinned

saucepan containing (per three lbs. of endives) a liquor prepared from

the juice of a lemon, a pinch of salt, one oz. of butter, and one-fifth

pint of water. Cover the saucepan; boil quickly, and complete the

cooking on the side of the fire for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.

Endives may thus be served plain, and constitute a very favourite

vegetable or garnish. They may accompany all Relevés of butcher’s meat.

Some cardoon recipes may also be applied to them, more particularly _à

la Mornay_, _à la Crème_, and _à la Milanaise_—all of which suit them

admirably.

2095—CABBAGES (Choux)

From the culinary standpoint, cabbages may be divided into seven

classes, as follows:—

1. White cabbages: used almost solely in the preparation of sauerkraut.

2. Red cabbages: used as a vegetable, as a hors-d’œuvre, or as a

condiment.

3. Round-headed or Savoy cabbages: specially suited to braising and the

English method of cooking.

4. Scotch kale and spring cabbages: always prepared in the English

fashion.

5. Cauliflowers and broccoli: the flower of these is most commonly

used, but the leaves are cooked in the English way when they are tender.

6. Brussels sprouts.

7. Kohlrabi: the roots of these may be dished as turnips, and the

leaves cooked in the English way, provided they be young and tender.

2096—WHITE CABBAGES (Choux Blancs)

In an extreme case, these cabbages may be braised like the green

Savoys, but they are usually too firm, and they are therefore only used

in the preparation of sauerkraut.

2097—SAUERKRAUT (Choucroûte)

If the sauerkraut be somewhat old, set it to soak in cold water for a

few hours. It is best, however, to avoid this measure, if possible, and

to use only fresh sauerkraut.

When about to cook it, drain it, if it has been soaked, and press

all the water out of it. Then pull it to pieces in such a way as to

leave no massed leaves; season it with salt and pepper, and put it

into a braising-pan lined with slices of bacon. Add, for ten lbs. of

sauerkraut, three quartered carrots, three medium-sized onions, each

stuck with a clove, a large faggot, three oz. of juniper berries and

one-half oz. of peppercorns contained in a canvas bag, six oz. of goose

dripping or lard, and one lb. of _blanched_ breast of bacon, the latter

to be withdrawn after one hour’s cooking.

Moisten, just enough to cover, with white consommé; cover with slices

of bacon; boil, and then cook in the oven for five hours with lid on.

_To serve Sauerkraut._—Withdraw the vegetables, the faggot, and the

juniper berries, and set the sauerkraut in a timbale, after having well

drained it.

Surround it with thin slices of ham, rectangles of bacon, and some

poached Frankfort or Strasburg sausages.

=Red Cabbages (Choux Rouges)=

2098—CHOUX ROUGES A LA FLAMANDE

Quarter the cabbages, suppress the outside leaves and the stumps,

and cut the trimmed leaves into a fine _julienne_. Season with salt,

pepper, and nutmeg; sprinkle with vinegar, and put this _julienne_ into

a well-buttered earthenware _cocotte_. Cover and cook in a moderate

oven.

When the cooking is three-parts done, add four peeled and quartered

russet apples and a tablespoonful of moist or powdered sugar.

Take note that the cooking must be gentle from start to finish, and

that the only moistening should be the vinegar.

2099—MARINADED RED CABBAGES FOR HORS-D’ŒUVRE

Cut the cabbages into a small _julienne_ as above, and put them into a

bowl or deep dish. Sprinkle with table salt, and leave to macerate for

two days, stirring frequently the while.

Then drain, and put them into a pot with garlic cloves, peppercorns,

and one bay leaf. Cover with raw vinegar, or the latter boiled and

cooled, and leave to _marinade_ for a day or two.

This _marinaded_ cabbage forms an excellent adjunct to boiled beef.

=Choux Verts Pommés (Savoy Cabbages)=

2100—BRAISED CABBAGE

Quarter the cabbage; parboil and cool it.

Defoliate the quarters; suppress the outside leaves and the midribs

of the remaining leaves; season with salt and pepper, and put the

cabbage in a saucepan garnished with slices of bacon, and containing

one quartered carrot, one onion stuck with a garlic clove, one faggot,

two-thirds pint of consommé, and three tablespoonfuls of stock fat per

two lbs. of cabbage. Cover with slices of bacon; boil, and then braise

gently for two hours.

2101—CHOU A L’ANGLAISE

Plainly boil or steam the cabbage. Press all the water out of it,

between two plates, and cut it into lozenges or squares.

2102—CHOU FARCI

Take a medium-sized round-headed or Savoy cabbage; parboil it; cool

it, and suppress its stump. Slightly open out its leaves, and insert

between them raw or cooked mince-meat, combined with chopped onion and

parsley, and highly seasoned. Reconstruct the cabbage, pressing it

closely together; wrap it in slices of bacon; string it, and braise it

gently for three hours with stock and stock fat.

When about to serve, drain the cabbage; remove the string and

the slices of bacon; set it on a dish, and cover it with a few

tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced,

and thickened with some half-glaze sauce.

Send what remains of the braising-liquor separately.

N.B.—The preparation is improved if the mince-meat with which the

cabbage is stuffed be combined with a quarter of its bulk of pilaff

rice and the same quantity of foie-gras fat.

2103—SOU-FASSUM PROVENÇAL

Parboil and cool the cabbage as above; remove the outer large leaves,

and set them on a net.

Upon this litter of cabbage leaves lay the following products, mixed:—

The inside leaves of the cabbage, chopped up and seasoned; one-half lb.

of _ciseled_ and _blanched_ white of a leek; one and three-quarter lbs.

of sausage-meat; six oz. of lean bacon, cut into dice and frizzled;

one chopped onion, fried in butter; two chopped tomatoes; a crushed

clove of garlic; three oz. of _blanched_ rice and four oz. of fresh,

young peas.

Gather up the ends of the net, and close it in such a way as to

reconstruct the cabbage.

Cook it in mutton broth or in ordinary stock for three and one-half or

four hours.

Serve the sou-fassum plain, on a round dish.

2104—CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.—_A_

Parboil, cool, and thoroughly drain the cabbage. Remove as many large

leaves as there are balls of stuffed cabbage required, and, if the

leaves be too small, use two for each ball.

Chop up the remains of the cabbage; season them with salt and pepper;

put a small portion of them on each of the leaves; close the latter in

the shape of balls, and set them one by one in a sautépan.

Then proceed, for the cooking, as directed under “Braised Cabbage.”

2105—CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.—_B_

Prepare the cabbage as above; insert into the centre of each ball a

portion of smooth pork forcemeat, the size of a pigeon’s egg, and

braise in the same way.

2106—CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.—_C_

Parboil the necessary quantity of cabbage leaves, in accordance with

the number of balls required. Cool them; spread them out; garnish

the middle of each with one tablespoonful of pilaff rice, mixed with

foie-gras purée, and close up the leaves to form small packets.

Braise as in the case of No. 2104.

2107—SCOTCH KALE (Chou frisé), SPRING CABBAGE (Choux de Printemps),

BROCCOLI LEAVES, TURNIP-TOPS

These various kinds of greens are prepared in the English way, as

described above, or they may be prepared with butter, like Brussels

sprouts. The two above-mentioned modes of preparation are the only ones

that suit them.

2108—CAULIFLOWER AND BROCCOLI (Chou-fleur et Broccoli)

Broccoli differs from cauliflower in the colour of its flower and the

arrangement of the parts of the latter. In the broccoli the flower is

of a deep violet. English broccoli never reach the size of those grown

in the South of France.

Many do not even grow to a head, while their flowers—the size of

hazel-nuts—are scattered among the interstices of the surrounding

leaves.

Cauliflowers and large broccoli allow of the same treatment.

2109—CHOU-FLEUR A LA CRÈME

Cut the cauliflowers into bunches; remove the small leaves which are

attached, and cook the cauliflower in salted water.

Thoroughly drain; set the bunches in a timbale, reconstructing the

cauliflower in so doing, or on a dish covered with a folded napkin, and

serve a cream sauce separately.

2110—CHOU-FLEUR AU GRATIN

Having well drained the cauliflower, dry it in butter for a few

minutes; mould it in a bowl, and pour a few tablespoonfuls of Mornay

sauce into it.

Coat the bottom of a dish with the same sauce, and turn out the

cauliflower on the dish; completely cover with Mornay sauce; sprinkle

with grated cheese mixed with raspings; bedew with melted butter, and

set the _gratin_ to form.

2111—CHOU-FLEUR A LA MILANAISE

Set the cauliflower on a buttered dish sprinkled with grated cheese.

Also sprinkle the cauliflower with cheese; add a few pieces of butter,

and set the _gratin_ to form.

On taking the dish out of the oven, sprinkle the cauliflower with

nut-brown butter, and serve immediately.

2112—CHOU-FLEUR A LA POLONAISE

Thoroughly drain the cauliflower, and set it on a buttered dish.

Sprinkle it with chopped, hard-boiled egg-yolks and chopped parsley,

mixed. When about to serve, bedew with nut-brown butter, in which

one-half oz. of fine bread-crumbs (per three oz. of butter) should have

been fried.

2113—CAULIFLOWER WITH VARIOUS SAUCES

Cook the cauliflower in salted water. Drain it thoroughly, and set it

in a timbale. Serve at the same time either a sauceboat of _Melted

Butter_, _a Butter_, _a Hollandaise_, or _a Mousseline_ sauce, &c.

2114—PURÉE DE CHOU-FLEUR dite A LA DUBARRY

Cook the cauliflower in salted water; drain it well; rub it through

tammy, and combine the resulting purée with one quarter of its bulk of

somewhat firm, mashed potatoes with cream. Heat; add butter away from

the fire, and dish in a timbale.

=Brussels Sprouts (Choux de Bruxelles)=

2115—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES A L’ANGLAISE

Cook them in salted water; drain them well, and dish them on a drainer

or in a timbale.

2116—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES A LA CRÈME

Cook the sprouts; drain them well without cooling them; stew them in

butter, and chop them up. Then combine them with as much fresh cream as

possible.

2117—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES SAUTÉS

Cook them, and, after having thoroughly drained them, throw them into

an omelet-pan containing some very hot butter. Toss them until they are

nicely frizzled; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle them with chopped

parsley.

2118—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES AU BEURRE

Cook them, keeping them somewhat firm, and drain without cooling them.

Put them into a sautépan; season them with salt and pepper; add two oz.

of butter (per lb. of sprouts) cut into small pieces; cover, and stew

in the oven for one-quarter hour.

2119—PURÉE DE CHOUX DE BRUXELLES dite FLAMANDE

Three-parts cook the sprouts; drain them well without cooling them,

and complete their cooking by stewing them in butter. Rub them through

tammy, and add to the resulting purée one-third of its bulk of mashed

potatoes.

Heat, add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.

2120—SEA KALE (Chou Marin)

This is one of the best and most delicate of English vegetables.

It is trimmed with great care, washed, and then tied into bunches of

from five to six plants, and these are plainly cooked in salted water.

All cardoon recipes, and sauces given for asparagus, may be applied to

sea kale.

2121—CUCUMBER AND VEGETABLE MARROW (Concombres et Courgettes)

Though of different shapes, these two vegetables allow of almost the

same treatment when they are cooked. They are especially used as

garnishes.

2122—CONCOMBRES A LA CRÈME

Peel, and cut the cucumber to shapes resembling olives; parboil and

drain these pieces. This done, three-parts cook them in butter; moisten

with boiling cream, and finish the cooking in reducing the cream. At

the very last moment add a little Béchamel sauce with the view of

slightly thickening the preparation, and dish in a timbale.

2123—CONCOMBRES GLACÉS

After having shaped them like large garlic cloves, quickly parboil

them. This done, treat them as directed under “Carottes glacées,”

and roll them sufficiently in their cooking-liquor, reduced to the

consistence of a thick syrup, to thoroughly coat them with it.

2124—CONCOMBRES FARCIS.—_A_

Cut the cucumbers into two-inch lengths; peel, parboil, and drain them.

Then hollow them out to form small, round cases; set them side by side

in a sautépan, and cook them in butter. When they are three-parts

cooked, fill them with a raw, chicken forcemeat, effecting this

operation by means of a piping-bag. The forcemeat should be slightly

moulded in the cucumber cases.

Complete the cooking of the cucumber, gently, while poaching the

forcemeat.

2125—CONCOMBRES FARCIS.—_B_

Peel the cucumbers; split them open lengthwise, and empty them by means

of a root-spoon. This done, parboil and drain without cooling them.

Garnish each half-cucumber, level with the edges, with a chicken

forcemeat, prepared with frangipan, and combined with a third of its

weight of Duxelles. Reconstruct the cucumbers by placing the halves one

against the other; wrap them each in a slice of bacon, and then in a

piece of muslin, and finally string them. This done, braise them in the

usual way. When they are cooked, remove their wrappings, and cut them

into roundels the thickness of which is determined by the size of the

piece of which they are the adjuncts.

2126—STACHYS (Crosnes du Japon)

Whatever be their mode of preparation, stachys must be cleaned,

parboiled, and kept firm, and cooked in butter without colouration.

2127—CROSNES A LA CRÈME

After having parboiled the stachys and three-parts cooked them in

butter, moisten with boiling cream, and complete their cooking while

reducing the cream. Add a little thin, fresh cream at the last moment,

and dish in a timbale.

2128—CROSNES SAUTÉS AU BEURRE

After having parboiled, drained, and dried the stachys, put them in an

omelet-pan containing some very hot butter, and toss them over a fierce

fire, until they are well frizzled. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle

moderately with chopped parsley.

2129—CROSNES AU VELOUTÉ

Completely cook the stachys in salted water. Drain them, and cohere

them with the required quantity of Velouté flavoured with mushroom

essence.

2130—CROQUETTES DE CROSNES

Having cooked the stachys in salted water, and kept them somewhat firm,

thoroughly drain them and mix them with a very reduced Allemande sauce,

in the proportion of one-fifth pint per lb. of stachys. Spread this

preparation on a buttered dish, and cool. Now cut this preparation

into portions weighing about two oz.; shape these portions like balls,

pears, quoits, or otherwise, dip them in beaten eggs, and roll them in

very fine bread-crumbs.

Plunge these croquettes into very hot fat five or six minutes before

serving; drain them on a piece of linen; salt moderately, and dish on a

napkin with very green, fried parsley.

2131—PURÉE DE CROSNES

Cook the stachys in salted water, keeping them somewhat firm, and add

thereto four oz. of quartered potatoes per lb. of stachys.

As soon as they are cooked, drain the stachys and the potatoes; rub

them through a sieve, and dry the purée over a very fierce fire.

Add the necessary quantity of milk to bring the purée to its proper

consistence; heat; add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.

2132—SPINACH (Épinards)

Spinach should only be prepared at the last moment, if possible.

After having parboiled it in plenty of boiling salted water, cool it,

press out all its contained water, and, according to circumstances,

either chop it up or rub it through a sieve.

If it has to be served with the leaves left whole, merely drain it on a

sieve, without either pressing or cooling it.

2133—ÉPINARDS A L’ANGLAISE

Cook it after having carefully shredded it; drain it well, and dish in

a timbale without cooling.

2134—ÉPINARDS A LA CRÈME

Having chopped up or rubbed the spinach through a sieve, put it into a

sautépan with two oz. of butter per lb., and dry it over a fierce fire.

Now add the quarter of its bulk of cream sauce to it, and simmer gently

for ten minutes.

Dish in a timbale when about to serve, and sprinkle the surface with

fresh cream.

2135—ÉPINARDS AU GRATIN

Dry the spinach as above in three oz. of butter per lb., and then, in

the same proportion, add two and one-half oz. of grated cheese.

Set on a buttered _gratin_-dish; sprinkle copiously with grated cheese

and melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form in a fierce oven.

2136—ÉPINARDS A LA VIROFLAY

Spread some large leaves of _blanched_ spinach on a napkin, and in the

middle of each lay a _subric_, the substance of which should have been

combined with very small _croûtons_ of bread-crumb fried in butter.

Wrap the _subrics_ in the spinach leaves; cover with Mornay sauce;

sprinkle with grated cheese and melted butter, and set to glaze in a

fierce oven.

2137—SUBRICS D’ÉPINARDS

Dry the spinach in butter as described above, and add to it per lb. of

spinach (away from the fire) one-sixth pint of very reduced Béchamel

sauce; two tablespoonfuls of thick cream; one egg and the yolks of

three, well beaten; salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

Make a sufficient quantity of clarified butter very hot in an

omelet-pan.

Take up some of the preparation of spinach by means of a spoon, and

let the contents of the latter drop (propelled by the finger) into the

butter. Proceed thus in the making of the _subrics_, and take care that

they do not touch. When a minute has elapsed, turn them over with a

spatula or a fork, that their other sides may colour.

Set on a dish or in a timbale, and serve a cream sauce separately.

2138—CRÊPES AUX ÉPINARDS

Parboil some well-shredded spinach; dry it in butter; season it, and

add to it an equal quantity of Yorkshire-pudding paste (No. 1943).

Cook this preparation in a small, well-buttered omelet-pan or in deep

tartlet-moulds.

N.B.—These spinach pancakes constitute an excellent garnish for Relevés

of Beef, Veal, and Ham.

2139—SOUFFLÉ AUX ÉPINARDS

Make a composition after the directions given under No. 2092. Spread

this composition in two or three layers, and set on each of the latter

a litter of well-cleaned and soaked anchovy fillets, arranged to form

a lattice. Finish with a layer of spinach shaped like a dome, and set

thereon two crossed rows of anchovy fillets. Cook after the manner of

an ordinary _soufflé_.

2140—SOUFFLÉ AUX ÉPINARDS AUX TRUFFES

Proceed as directed in the preceding recipe, but substitute anchovy

fillets for some fine slices of truffle.

N.B.—Both these spinach _soufflés_ may be served either as vegetables,

in which case they are moulded in large timbales, or as garnishes, when

they are dished in small _cassolettes_ of appropriate size.

They are very delicate preparations, which may be varied by watercress

_soufflé_—prepared in the same way.

2141—FEUILLES DE VIGNE FARCIES OU DOLMAS (Stuffed Vine Leaves)

Provided the vine-leaves be very tender, they may serve in the

preparation of the following garnish:—Suppress their stalks; parboil

the leaves; drain them well, and arrange three or four at a time in the

form of a circular tray, in the centre of which lay a tablespoonful of

pilaff rice to which some foie-gras purée has been added. This done,

draw the ends of the leaves over the rice, so as to enclose it and to

form regular balls of equal size.

Put these balls, well-pressed, one against the other in a sautépan, the

bottom of which should be garnished with slices of bacon; cover with

thin slices of bacon; moisten just enough to cover, with good consommé;

boil, and then braise gently.

2142—TUBEROUS FENNEL (Fenouil Tubéreux)

This vegetable is not very well known in England, where it is sold only

by the leading merchants of early-season vegetables. It is prepared

like the cardoons and the marrows.

2143—BROAD BEANS (Fèves)

Broad beans should be shelled just before being cooked, and it is quite

the rule to peel them. Boil them in salted water containing a bunch of

savory, the size of which should be in proportion to the quantity of

broad beans. When they are cooked and drained, add the leaves of savory

(chopped) to them.

2144—FÈVES AU BEURRE

Having well-drained and peeled the broad beans, toss them over a fierce

fire to dry them, and then finish them, away from the fire, with

three oz. of butter per lb. of beans.

2145—FÈVES A LA CRÈME

After having dried and peeled the broad beans, cohere them (per lb.)

with three tablespoonfuls of thick, fresh cream.

2146—PURÉE DE FÈVES

Proceed exactly as for purée of peas. This purée constitutes a very

delicate garnish, which is particularly well suited to ham.

2147—GOMBOS

This vegetable—so common in America and the East—is only very rarely

used in England, where, however, it is now beginning to be better known.

There are two kinds of Gombos: the long and the round kind. The latter

is also called _Bamia_ or _Bamiès_. Both kinds are prepared after the

same recipes.

2148—GOMBOS A LA CRÈME

After having trimmed them, parboil them in salted water and drain them.

Then cook them in butter, and, just before serving them, cohere them

with a cream sauce.

2149—GOMBOS POUR GARNITURES

Parboil the gombos until they are two-thirds cooked. Drain them well,

and complete their cooking in the braising-liquor of the piece they are

to accompany.

If they are to garnish a poulet _sauté_, complete their cooking in some

thin veal gravy.

2150—HOP SPROUTS (Jets de Houblon)

The eatable part is separated from the fibrous by breaking off the ends

of the sprouts, as in the case of asparagus or sprew. After having

washed them in several waters, cook them in salted water containing,

per every quart, the juice of one half-lemon.

Hop sprouts may be prepared with butter, cream, velouté, &c. When

served as a vegetable, they are invariably accompanied by poached eggs,

which are laid in a crown round them and alternated by comb-shaped

_croûtons_ fried in butter.

=Haricot-Beans (Haricots Blancs)=

2151—HARICOTS BLANCS A L’AMÉRICAINE (Lima Beans)

Cook the beans as described under No. 274. But add to the prescribed

ingredients one-half lb. of lean bacon per pint of dry beans.

When they are cooked and well drained, mix them with the bacon cut into

dice, and cohere them with some good tomato sauce.

2152—HARICOTS BLANCS AU BEURRE

Having well drained the haricot-beans, season them with salt and pepper

and cohere them with two oz. of butter per lb. of cooked beans. Dish in

a timbale and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

2153—HARICOTS BLANCS A LA BRETONNE

Drain them well and cohere them with a Bretonne sauce, in the

proportion of one-third pint of sauce per lb. of cooked haricot-beans.

Dish in a timbale with chopped parsley.

2154—PURÉE DE HARICOTS BLANCS dite SOISSONNAISE

Rub the haricot-beans through a sieve while they are burning-hot. Add

to the purée (per lb. thereof) three oz. of butter; dry it over a very

fierce fire, and then add some milk to it, to bring it to its proper

consistence.

2155—FLAGEOLETS (Haricots Flageolets)

These beans are used more especially fresh; but, when they are out of

season, recourse is often had to preserved or dried flageolets.

They are prepared in the same way as haricot-beans. Their purée, which

is very delicate, is known under the name of “Purée Musard,” and it is

particularly suitable for the garnishing of mutton. It is also used as

a thickening ingredient in the purée of French beans, and nothing can

equal it for the purpose; for, not only is it an unctuous thickening

medium, but its flavour is peculiarly adapted to the throwing into

relief of that of the French beans.

2156—RED BEANS (Haricots Rouges)

Red beans are cooked in salted water with one-third lb. of lean bacon,

one pint of red wine, one carrot, one onion stuck with a clove, and one

faggot per quart of beans. The bacon should be withdrawn as soon as

cooked. These beans are cohered by means of _manied_ butter, and they

are then mixed with the bacon, which is cut into dice and frizzled in

butter.

2157—FRENCH BEANS (Haricots Verts)

French beans are among the greatest vegetable delicacies; but they have

to be prepared with the utmost care.

Their quality is such that they are almost always good, in spite

of faulty preparation—so common in their case; but, when they are

cooked with care, no other vegetable can surpass them in perfection

of flavour. They should be taken quite fresh, and they should not be

cooked too long. They are best when they seem a little firm to the

teeth, without, of course, being in the least hard.

They must not be cooled when cooked; they should only be _sautéd_ over

the fire with the view of causing the evaporation of their moisture.

After having seasoned them with salt and pepper, add to them (per lb.)

about three oz. of very fresh butter, cut into small pieces; _sauté_

them so as to effect their leason, and straightway serve them.

Do not add chopped parsley to French beans, unless it be very tender

and gathered and chopped at the last moment.

2158—HARICOTS PANACHÉS

This consists of French beans and flageolets, in equal quantities,

cohered with butter.

2159—PURÉE DE HARICOTS VERTS

Cook the French beans in salted water; drain them well, and stew them

in butter for eight or ten minutes. Rub them through a fine sieve, and

mix the resulting purée with half its bulk of very creamy, flageolet

purée.

=Lettuces (Laitues)=

2160—LAITUES BRAISÉES AU JUS

After having parboiled, cooled, and pressed the water out of them, tie

them together in twos or threes, and braise them as directed under

No. 275. This done, cut them in two, unfold the end of each half, and

set them on a dish, in the form of a crown; alternating them with

heart-shaped _croûtons_ fried in butter. Or, merely dish them in a

timbale.

Coat them with the reduced braising-liquor combined with some thickened

veal gravy.

N.B.—Braised lettuces may also be stuffed after the manner described

under No. 2106.

2161—LAITUES A LA MOELLE

Braise and dish the lettuces as above.

Upon the turban of lettuces, set a crown of large slices of poached

marrow, and coat with a moderately thick buttered gravy.

2162—LAITUES FARCIES

Parboil, cool, and press the lettuces.

This done, open them in the middle without touching their stems, and

garnish them with good forcemeat, combined with half its bulk of dry

Duxelles (No. 223). Reconstruct the lettuces; string them; braise them,

and dish them as directed under No. 2160.

2163—LAITUES FARCIES POUR GARNITURE

Proceed as directed under Nos. 2104 to 2106.

2164—LAITUES A LA CRÈME

Proceed as directed under No. 2089.

2165—SOUFFLÉ DE LAITUES

Proceed as directed under No. 2139.

=Lentils (Lentilles)=

Lentils are cooked as directed under the “preparation of dry

vegetables” (No. 274).

2166—LENTILLES AU BEURRE

Carefully drain the lentils; dry them by tossing them over the fire,

and cohere them with butter in the proportion of two oz. of the latter

per lb. of lentils.

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a little chopped parsley.

2167—PURÉE DE LENTILLES

Proceed as for the purée of haricot-beans.

2168—VÉRONIQUE (Laver)

As this vegetable is sold already cooked at English markets, it is only

necessary to add enough good Espagnole sauce to it, when heating it, to

make a properly consistent purée.

2169—MAIZE (Maïs)

Take the maize when it is quite fresh and still milky, and cook it

either in steam or salted water; taking care to retain the leaves on

the ears. When cooked, the leaves are drawn back so as to represent

stalks, and the ears are bared if they be served whole. This done, set

the ears on a napkin, and send a hors-d’œuvre dish of fresh butter to

the table with them.

If the maize has to be grilled, put the ears on a grill in the oven,

and, when they have swollen and are of a golden colour, withdraw the

grains and set the latter on a napkin. Sometimes, too, the ears are

served whole.

When maize is served as an accompaniment, the grains are separated from

the stalk and cohered with butter or cream, exactly like peas.

Failing fresh maize, excellent preserved kinds are to be found on the

market.

2170—SOUFFLÉ DE MAÏS A LA CRÈME

Cook the maize in water or steam; rub it quickly through tammy; put it

into a saucepan with a small piece of butter, and quickly dry it.

This done, add sufficient fresh cream to this purée to make a somewhat

soft paste. Thicken this paste with the yolks of three eggs, per lb. of

purée, and combine it with the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff

froth. Mould and cook after the manner of an ordinary _soufflé_.

2171—SOUFFLÉ DE MAÏS AU PAPRIKA

Before rubbing the maize through a sieve, add to it two tablespoonfuls

of chopped onion fried in butter, and a large pinch of paprika per lb.

of maize. Proceed for the rest of the operation as in the case of

No. 2170.

N.B.—These two _soufflés_ are served as a garnish and may be cooked

either in a timbale or in small _cassolettes_. They constitute

excellent adjuncts to large, poached fowls.

2172—CHESTNUTS (Marrons)

Slightly split open the shell on the convex sides of the nuts, and put

them in the oven for from seven to eight minutes, on a tray containing

a little water, that they may be shelled with ease.

Or, split them open in the same way; put them in small quantities at a

time in a frying-basket, and plunge them into very hot fat. Peel them

while they are still quite hot.

2173—STEWED CHESTNUTS

As soon as they are peeled, cook them in enough consommé to just cover

them, and add half a stick of celery per lb. of chestnuts.

If they are intended for the stuffing of a goose or a turkey, keep them

somewhat firm.

2174—BRAISED AND GLAZED CHESTNUTS

Take some very large chestnuts, and dip them in hot fat in order to

peel them. Then set them in one layer, one against the other in a

sautépan. If they were heaped, only a poor result could be obtained.

Moisten them, just enough to cover, with strong veal stock, and stir

them as little as possible while they are cooking, so as to avoid

breaking them.

When they are three-parts cooked, reduce the moistening, and gently

roll the chestnuts in the glaze resulting from this reduction, that

they may be covered with a brilliant coating.

Chestnuts prepared in this way serve more particularly as a garnish.

2175—PURÉE DE MARRONS

Having thoroughly peeled the chestnuts, cook them in white consommé,

with a celery stalk as in the case of No. 2173, and one-half oz. of

sugar per lb. of chestnuts. Continue cooking until they may be easily

crushed; rub them through tammy, and treat the purée as directed in the

case of the preceding ones.

2176—TURNIPS (Navets)

Whether served as vegetables or as a garnish, turnips are prepared

like carrots. They may, therefore, either be served glazed, or “à la

Crème,” &c.

They may also be served stuffed, after the following recipes:—

2177—STUFFED TURNIPS.—_A_

Take some round, medium-sized turnips, fairly equal in size. Peel

them, and, in so doing, shape them nicely; then, by means of a round

fancy-cutter, cut them deeply at their base, pressing the instrument

into the pulp.

This done, thoroughly parboil and empty them.

With the withdrawn pulp, prepare a purée, to which add an equal

quantity of mashed potatoes. Garnish the turnips with this purée, and

shape the visible portion of the latter dome-fashion.

Set the stuffed turnips in a sautépan, and complete their cooking in

butter, taking care to baste them frequently.

2178—STUFFED TURNIPS.—_B_

Prepare the turnips as above; but stuff them with a preparation of

semolina cooked in consommé and combined with grated Parmesan.

Complete the cooking as directed in the preceding recipe.

N.B.—Proceeding in the same way, turnips may be stuffed with spinach,

chicory, and even with farinaceous vegetables or rice, kept very

creamy. All these garnishes are at once sightly and excellent.

2179—PURÉE DE NAVETS (Turnip Purée)

Slice the turnips and cook them in a little butter, salt, sugar, and

the necessary amount of water. Rub through tammy, and thicken the

resulting purée with only just the required quantity of very good

mashed potatoes.

2180—TURNIP-TOPS

Young turnip-tops are very much liked in England as a luncheon

vegetable. They should be prepared like “Choux verts cooked _à

l’anglaise_.”

=Onions (Oignons)=

2181—STUFFED ONIONS

Take some medium-sized, mild, Spanish onions; cut them at a point

one-quarter of their height from the top, and parboil them thoroughly.

Empty them, leaving only a wall one-third in. thick; chop up the

withdrawn parts, and mix them with an equal quantity of Duxelles

(No. 225).

Garnish the emptied onions with this preparation; complete their

cooking by braising them, and glaze them at the last moment,

simultaneously with the formation of the _gratin_.

N.B.—Proceed in the same way for onions stuffed with spinach, Rizotto,

or semolina, &c., as suggested under Nos. 2177 and 2178.

Onions may also be garnished with a _soufflé_ preparation of spinach,

tomatoes, chicory, &c. Herein lies scope for a great variety of

excellent and uncommon garnishes.

2182—FRIED ONIONS

Cut them into roundels one-fifth in. thick; separate the rings; season

them with salt and pepper; dredge them and fry them in very hot oil.

Drain on a piece of linen and salt slightly.

Onions prepared in this way are used particularly as an accompaniment.

2183—GLAZED ONIONS

_For the preparation without colouration_: Peel some small onions of

equal size without grazing them. Set them to cook in enough white

consommé to almost cover them, and two oz. of butter per pint of

consommé.

At the last moment roll them in their cooking-liquor, reduced to a

glaze.

_For the preparation with colouration_: Cook the onions very gently in

butter, with a pinch of powdered sugar, so that the cooking and the

colouring may be effected together.

2184—PURÉE D’OIGNONS, dite SOUBISE

See No. 104, in the chapter on sauces.

2185—SORREL (Oseille)

Having shredded the sorrel and washed it in several waters, set it to

cook gently in a little water. This done, thoroughly drain it on a

sieve and mix it with a pale roux, consisting of two oz. of butter and

one oz. of flour. Add one and one-quarter pints of consommé, salt, and

a pinch of sugar to it, and braise it in the oven for two hours.

Then rub it through tammy; thicken it with the yolks of six eggs

or three whole eggs beaten to a stiff froth and strained through a

strainer. Heat, and finish with one-sixth pint of cream and five oz. of

butter.

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with strong, veal stock.

2186—OXALIS

Cook this in boiling salted water after having well cleaned and washed

it. It may then be prepared “à la Crème,” stuffed, or “au Gratin.”

Oxalis purée is called Purée Brésilienne, and is prepared in the same

way as turnip purée.

2187—SWEET POTATOES

Sweet potatoes are generally served, baked in their skins, and

accompanied by fresh butter. They may also be prepared according to the

majority of potato-recipes, especially the following:—

_Sautées_, _Gratinées_, _Mashed_, _Duchesse_, &c.

They may also be fried; but, in that case, they should be served the

moment they are ready, for they soften very quickly.

Finally, they may be prepared soufflé-fashion, after the directions

given under “Soufflé de Pommes de Terre.”

2188—PEAS (Petits Pois)

Whatever be the treatment to which peas are to be subjected, always

take them very green and freshly gathered, and shell them only at the

last minute. Peas are one of the vegetables most prone to lose their

quality through want of care. If prepared with pains, the delicacy of

their flavour is incomparable; but the slightest neglect on the part of

the operator renders them savourless and commonplace.

2189—PETITS POIS A L’ANGLAISE

Cook them quickly in salted boiling water; drain them, and dry them by

tossing them over a fierce fire. Dish them in a timbale, and serve some

pats of very fresh butter separately.

2190—PETITS POIS AU BEURRE

As soon as the peas are cooked, drain them and toss them over a fierce

fire, to dry. Then season them with a pinch of powdered sugar, and

cohere them, away from the fire, with butter, in the proportion of

three oz. per pint of peas.

2191—PETITS POIS A LA BONNE-FEMME

Fry twelve oz. of small onions and four oz. of breast of bacon, cut

into dice and _blanched_ in butter; add one-half oz. of flour to the

latter; cook the roux for a moment; moisten with one-half pint of

consommé and boil.

Put one quart of freshly-shelled peas into this sauce; add the onions

and the bacon, together with a bunch of parsley; and cook, reducing the

sauce to half in so doing.

2192—PETITS POIS A LA FLAMANDE

Prepare one-half lb. of new carrots as though they were to be glazed.

When half-cooked, add two-thirds pint of freshly-shelled peas to them.

Complete the cooking of the two vegetables together, and, at the last

moment, add butter away from the fire.

2193—PETITS POIS A LA FRANÇAISE

Take a saucepan, of a size a little larger than would be necessary

to just hold the following products, and put into it one quart of

freshly-shelled peas; a faggot containing the heart of a lettuce, two

sprays of parsley, and two of chervil; twelve small onions, four oz. of

butter, one-third oz. of salt, and two-thirds oz. of loaf-sugar. Mix

the whole together until it forms a compact mass, and place in the cool

until ready for cooking. Add three tablespoonfuls of water, when about

to cook the peas, and cook gently with lid on.

When about to serve, withdraw the faggot; _cisel_ the lettuce; add it

to the peas, and cohere the whole with butter, away from the fire.

N.B.—Raw, _ciseled_ lettuce may be added to the peas; but, as various

tastes must be allowed for, it is better to insert the lettuce whole,

and to mix it with the peas afterwards, if it be so desired. The

lettuce may also be quartered and laid on the peas without being mixed

with them.

2194—PETITS POIS A LA MENTHE

Cook the peas in salted water, together with a bunch of fresh mint.

Then prepare them in the English way or “au Beurre,” and lay a few

parboiled mint leaves upon them when serving.

2195—PURÉE DE POIS FRAIS, dite SAINT-GERMAIN

Cook the peas with just enough boiling water to cover them, and season

it with one-half oz. of salt, and one-sixth oz. of sugar per quart.

Add a lettuce and a few parsley leaves (tied together). When the peas

are cooked, drain them; and reduce their cooking-liquor while they are

being rubbed through a sieve.

Work the purée with four oz. of fresh butter per quart, and finally add

to it the cooking-liquor, reduced almost to a glaze.

2196—MOULDED PEASE PURÉE FOR GARNISH

Prepare the purée as above; but keep it a little creamier. Mix with

it, per quart, two whole eggs and the yolks of three, beaten and

strained through muslin. With this preparation, fill some _dariole_-

or _baba_-moulds, according to the piece for which the timbales

are intended, and poach them in a _bain-marie_ for from twenty to

twenty-five minutes.

Remember to let them stand for five minutes before unmoulding them.

N.B.—Timbales of haricot-beans, flageolets, or lentil purée, are

prepared similarly.

2197—CAPSICUM OR PIMENTOS (Poivrons doux)

The capsicums used in cookery are of various kinds: the Chilian and

Cayenne kinds (Chili and Cayenne peppers) which have a strong, burning

taste, are only used as condiments.

The large or mild capsicums, green, red, or yellow, are used more

particularly as garnishes. Although the difference in their colouration

is accompanied by a difference of quality, they are not easily

distinguished in this respect; and, although the large, red Spanish

capsicums are the best, the other varieties may be treated in the same

way as the former.

Whatever be the kind of capsicums used, either grill or scald them in

order to skin them, and clear them of their seeds. According to the

purpose they are intended for, they are either cut up or left whole.

2198—PIMENTOS FARCIS

For this purpose take some small, green, carrot-shaped capsicums.

Remove their stems, after having skinned them; empty them, and

half-fill them with half-cooked, pilaff rice.

Then set them in a sautépan, and carefully braise them with excellent

stock.

2199—CAPSICUMS FOR GARNISHING

For this purpose, the large red, Spanish capsicums are best.

Braise them when they are peeled, and, when cooked, cut them up as the

requirements may suggest.

2200—PURÉE DE PIMENTOS

Braise some large, red capsicums, with two-thirds of their weight of

rice. When the whole is well cooked, rub it through a sieve, and add

butter to the extent of two oz. per quart of the preparation.

N.B.—This purée is particularly well suited to poached fowls and white

meats, and it is well to keep it thin.

2201—POTATOES (Pommes de Terre)

Ordinary potatoes are rarely of good quality in England, and they do

not lend themselves as well as certain Continental varieties do to the

various culinary uses to which this valuable tuber may be put.

The very best kinds of potato are almost unknown in England, and the

Dutch and Vitelotte potatoes have to be imported.

2202—POMMES DE TERRE A L’ANGLAISE

Turn the potatoes to the shape of large garlic cloves, and cook them in

salted water or steam. They accompany more especially boiled fish.

The English method is to cook them without salt.

2203—POMMES DE TERRE ANNA

Cut them to the shape of cylinders; slice these into thin roundels;

wash them, and dry them in a piece of linen.

Set these roundels in circles on the bottom of the mould proper to this

potato preparation, or in a well-buttered thick-bottomed sautépan; let

them overlap one another, and let the lay of each circle be reversed.

Season; spread a coat of butter upon the first layer, and proceed in

the same way with a second layer.

Make five or six layers in this way, seasoning and spreading butter

over each.

Cover the utensil; cook in a good oven for thirty minutes; turn the

whole over, if necessary, to equalise the colouring; turn out upon a

saucepan-lid, to drain away the butter, and then tilt the whole on to a

dish.

2204—POMMES ANNA FOR GARNISHING

Either _dariole_- or _baba_-moulds may be used for this purpose; but

they should be tinned copper ones if possible. After having thoroughly

buttered them, garnish them with thin roundels of potato, cut to the

diameter of the moulds, seasoned, and set one upon the other. Set the

moulds on a tray containing enough very hot fat to reach half-way up to

their brims, and cook in a very hot oven for twenty-five minutes.

Turn out just before serving.

2205—POMMES DE TERRE BERNY

Add chopped truffles to some “Croquette” paste (No. 219), in the

proportion of two oz. of the former to one lb. of the latter; and

divide up this preparation into two-oz. portions. Mould these to shapes

resembling apricots; dip them in beaten eggs (No. 174), and roll them

in almonds cut into the thinnest possible splinters. Plunge the potato

balls into hot fat five or six minutes before serving.

2206—POMMES DE TERRE A LA BOULANGÈRE

This preparation has been given in various recipes (see No. 1307).

2207—POMMES DE TERRE BYRON

Prepare the required amount of “Pommes Macaire” (No. 2228), and cook in

butter in a small frying-pan. Dish; sprinkle copiously with cream and

grated cheese, and set to glaze quickly.

2208—POMMES DE TERRE CHÂTEAU

Turn them to the shape of large olives; season them; cook them gently

in clarified butter, that they may be golden and very soft; and, just

before serving, sprinkle them moderately with chopped parsley.

2209—POMMES DE TERRE A LA CRÈME

Vitelotte or new kidney potatoes are needed for this preparation.

Cook them in salted water; peel them as soon as this is done, and cut

them into rather thick roundels. Put them in a sautépan; moisten,

enough to cover them, with boiling cream; season, and reduce the cream.

At the last moment, finish with raw cream.

2210—CROQUETTES DE POMMES DE TERRE

Prepare the necessary quantity of “Croquette” paste (No. 219), and

divide it into two-oz. portions. Roll these to the shape of corks or

pears; treat them _à l’anglaise_, and put them into very hot fat, five

or six minutes before serving.

2211—CROQUETTES DE POMMES DE TERRE A LA DAUPHINE

Take the required amount of “Pommes Dauphine” preparation (No. 220);

divide it into two-oz. portions; mould these to the shape of corks;

treat them _à l’anglaise_, and fry them like ordinary _croquettes_.

2212—POMMES DE TERRE A LA DUCHESSE

Use the same preparation as for No. 2210. Mould the portions to the

shape of small cottage-brioches, _galettes_ or small loaves, or shape

them by means of the piping-bag. Arrange them on a buttered tray;

_gild_ them with beaten egg, and colour them in a fierce oven for seven

or eight minutes before serving them.

2213—POMMES DE TERRE DUCHESSE AU CHESTER

Use the same preparation as for No. 2210, and combine it with two oz.

of grated Chester per lb. Mould it to the shape of very small

_galettes_; set these portions on a buttered tray; _gild_ them with

beaten eggs; cover each with a thin slice of Chester, and set them in

the oven for seven or eight minutes before serving.

2214—POMMES DE TERRE FONDANTES

Cut the potatoes to the shape of large, elongated olives, and let each

weigh about three oz. Gently cook them in butter, in a sautépan, and

take care to turn them over.

When they are cooked, withdraw them, so as to slightly flatten them

with a fork without breaking them. Drain away their butter; return

them to the sautépan with three oz. of fresh butter per every two lbs.

of their weight, and cook them with lid on until they have entirely

absorbed the butter.

2215—POMMES DE TERRE EN ALLUMETTES

Trim the potatoes square, and then cut them into small rods, of

one-fifth in. sides. Put them in hot fat, and let them dry well before

draining them.

2216—POMMES DE TERRE CHATOUILLARD

Trim the potatoes, and cut them into long even ribbons one-eighth in.

thick. Treat these ribbons like “Pommes soufflées” (see No. 2221).

2217—CHIPPED POTATOES

Cut the potatoes into thin roundels, by means of a special plane; put

them into cold water for ten minutes; drain them; dry them in linen,

and fry them, keeping them very crisp. Serve them cold or hot, with

game roasted in the English way.

2218—POMMES DE TERRE COLLERETTE

Turn the potatoes to the shape of corks, and cut them with a special

knife which grooves them. Treat them like chipped potatoes.

2219—POMMES DE TERRE PAILLES

Cut the potatoes into a long, thin _julienne_; wash them and thoroughly

dry them on a piece of linen.

Put them into hot fat; and, at the end of a few minutes, drain them

in a frying-basket. Just before serving them, plunge them afresh into

smoking fat, that they may be very crisp; drain them on a piece of

linen, and salt them moderately.

2220—POMMES DE TERRE PONT-NEUF

Trim the potatoes square, and cut them into rods of half-inch sides.

Plunge them into hot fat, and leave them there until they are crisp

outside and creamy in.

This preparation represents the generic type of fried potatoes.

2221—POMMES DE TERRE SOUFFLÉES

Trim the potatoes square, and carefully cut them into slices one-eighth

inch thick. Wash them in cold water; thoroughly dry them, and put them

into moderately hot fat. As soon as the potatoes are in it, gradually

heat the fat until they are cooked—which they are known to be when they

rise to the surface of the frying fat.

Drain them in the frying-basket, and at once immerse them in fresh and

hotter fat. This final immersion effects the puffing, which results

from the sudden contact with intense heat.

Leave the potatoes to dry; drain them on a stretched piece of linen;

salt them moderately, and dish them.

2222—GRATIN DE POMMES DE TERRE A LA DAUPHINOISE

Finely slice two lbs. of fair-sized Dutch potatoes. Put them in a

basin, and add thereto salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, one beaten egg,

one and one-half pints of boiled milk, and four oz. of fresh, grated

Gruyère.

Thoroughly mix up the whole.

Pour this preparation into earthenware dishes, rubbed with garlic and

well buttered; copiously sprinkle with grated Gruyère; add a few pieces

of butter, and cook in a moderate oven for from forty to forty-five

minutes.

2223—POMMES DE TERRE A LA HONGROISE

Fry four oz. of chopped onion in butter, together with a coffeespoonful

of paprika. Add two peeled, pressed, and sliced tomatoes; two lbs. of

potatoes, cut into somewhat thick roundels, and moisten, just enough

to cover, with consommé. Cook, while almost entirely reducing the

moistening, and sprinkle with chopped parsley at the last moment.

2224—POMMES DE TERRE GRATINÉES

This preparation may be made in two ways as follows:—

(1) Make a smooth potato purée; this done, put it into a deep, buttered

_gratin_-dish; smooth its surface; sprinkle the latter with grated

cheese mixed with fine raspings; bedew with melted butter, and set the

_gratin_ to form in a fierce oven.

(2) Bake some fine, well-washed, Dutch potatoes in the oven. As soon

as they are cooked, open them lengthwise; withdraw their pulp; rub the

latter through a sieve while it is still quite hot, and finish it after

the manner of an ordinary purée.

Fill the half-shells with purée; sprinkle the latter with grated cheese

and raspings; lay the half-shells on a tray, and set the _gratin_ to

form as above.

On taking the potatoes out of the oven, dish them on a napkin, and

serve them immediately.

2225—POMMES DE TERRE AU LARD

Frizzle in butter one-half lb. of breast of salted pork, cut into

dice and _blanched_, and twelve small onions. Drain the bacon and the

onions; mix one oz. of flour with the butter; brown for a few minutes,

and moisten with one and one-quarter pints of consommé. Season with

a pinch of pepper, and add two lbs. of medium-sized, quartered and

well-trimmed potatoes, the bacon and the onions, and a faggot. Cover

and cook gently.

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle moderately with chopped parsley.

2226—POMMES DE TERRE LORETTE

Add some grated cheese to the preparation for “Pommes Dauphine,” in the

proportion of one oz. of the former per lb. of the latter.

Divide up this mixture into one and one-half oz. portions; mould these

to the shape of crescents, and dredge them moderately.

Plunge these crescents into very hot fat about six minutes before

serving.

2227—POMMES DE TERRE A LA LYONNAISE

Cut some peeled and plain-boiled potatoes into roundels, and toss

these in butter in a frying-pan. Likewise toss some sliced onions in

butter, the quantity of the former measuring one-fourth of that of the

potatoes. When the onions are of a nice golden colour, add them to

the _sautéd_ potatoes; season with salt and pepper; _sauté_ the two

products together for a few minutes, that they may mix thoroughly, and

dish them in a timbale with chopped parsley.

2228—POMMES DE TERRE MACAIRE

Bake some Dutch potatoes in the oven. As soon as they are done, empty

them and collect their pulp on a dish; season it with salt and pepper,

and work it with a fork; adding to it, the while, one and one-half oz.

of butter per lb.

Spread this preparation in the form of a _galette_ on the bottom of an

omelet-pan containing some very hot, clarified butter, and brown it

well on both sides.

2229—POMMES DE TERRE MAIRE

Prepare these exactly like “Pommes à la Crème.”

2230—POMMES DE TERRE A LA MAÎTRE-D’HÔTEL

Cook some medium-sized Dutch potatoes in salted water; peel them; cut

them into roundels while they are still quite hot, and cover them with

boiling milk.

Season them with salt and white pepper; completely reduce the milk, and

dish them in a timbale with chopped parsley.

2231—POMMES DE TERRE MARQUISE

Mix some very reduced and very red tomato purée with the preparation

for “Pommes Duchesse,” in the proportion of three tablespoonfuls of the

former per lb. of the latter.

Set this preparation on buttered trays (by means of a piping-bag fitted

with a large, grooved pipe) in shapes resembling half-eggs.

_Gild_ them slightly with beaten eggs, and set them in a somewhat hot

oven seven or eight minutes before serving.

2232—POMMES DE TERRE A LA MENTHE

Cook some fair-sized new potatoes in the English way, and add a bunch

of mint to them. Dish them in a timbale, and set a mint-leaf (from the

bunch) upon each potato.

2233—POMMES DE TERRE MIREILLE

Cut some medium-sized, raw potatoes into roundels. Season them and

_sauté_ them in butter. When they are ready, add to them, per lb.,

four oz. of sliced artichoke-bottoms, tossed in butter, and one and

one-half oz. of truffle slices.

_Sauté_ the whole so as to ensure a complete mixture, and dish in a

timbale.

2234—POMMES DE TERRE MIRETTE

Cut some raw potatoes into a _julienne_ one-eighth inch wide, and cook

them in butter, keeping them very creamy. Add to them, per lb., two oz.

of a _julienne_ of truffles and three tablespoonfuls of melted meat

glaze.

Mix; dish in a timbale; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and melted

butter, and set to glaze quickly.

2235—POMMES DE TERRE MOUSSELINE

Prepare a flawn-crust, baked without colouration.

Meanwhile, bake a few Dutch potatoes in the oven; withdraw their pulp;

season it with salt and white pepper, and work it over the fire with

four oz. of butter and the yolks of two eggs per lb. of its weight. Add

one-sixth pint of whisked cream, and set the preparation in the crust,

shaping it like a dome. Decorate by means of a piping-bag, fitted with

a grooved pipe, with some of the preparation which should have been put

aside; sprinkle with melted butter, and set to glaze quickly.

2236—POMMES DE TERRE NOISETTES

Cut the potatoes, by means of a round spoon-cutter, into pieces the

size of hazel-nuts. Season and cook them in butter, and take care to

keep them nicely golden and creamy.

2237—POMMES DE TERRE PARISIENNE

Prepare some “Pommes Noisettes” as above; but cut them a little

smaller. When they are cooked, roll them in melted meat glaze, and

sprinkle them with chopped parsley.

2238—POMMES DE TERRE PARMESANE

Proceed as directed under “Pommes au Chester” (No. 2213), but

substitute Parmesan for the latter.

2239—POMMES DE TERRE PERSILLEES

Cook the potatoes in the English way, that is to say, boil them

plainly; drain them well, and roll them in melted butter and chopped

parsley.

2240—POMMES DE TERRE ROBERT

Prepare a composition of “Pomme Macaire,” and add thereto, per lb.,

three eggs and a large pinch of chopped chives. Cook in the frying-pan

as for “Pomme Macaire.”

2241—POMMES DE TERRE A LA ROXELANE

Bake six fine Dutch potatoes in the oven. Withdraw the pulp from their

insides, and work it, together with one-third lb. of butter and four

egg-yolks, and enough fresh cream to thin it. Complete with the whites

of two eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.

Set this preparation in small timbales, made from brioches the knobs

of which have been removed, and the under halves of which have been

emptied of all crumb. Sprinkle with chopped truffle, and bake in a mild

oven as for a _soufflé_.

2242—POMMES DE TERRE A LA SAVOYARDE

Proceed as for No. 2222; but replace the milk by some consommé.

2243—POMMES DE TERRE A LA SAINT-FLORENTIN

Prepare some “Pommes Croquettes” paste (No. 219). Combine therewith

(per lb.) two oz. of chopped, lean ham. Roll the portions into the

shape of corks; dip them in beaten eggs, and roll them in vermicelli.

This done, flatten so as to give them a rectangular shape, and fry them

in very hot fat.

2244—POMMES DE TERRE SCHNEIDER

Proceed as directed under No. 2230; but for the milk substitute some

consommé. Reduce in the same way, and finish with butter, melted meat

glaze, and chopped parsley.

2245—POMMES DE TERRE SUZETTE

Peel some fine, Dutch potatoes, and turn them to the shape of eggs. Cut

them flat at one end that they may stand upright, and bake them on a

tray in the oven.

Open them like a boiled egg; put aside the pieces thus cut off, and

withdraw the pulp from their insides. Season this pulp, and work it;

adding to it the while, per lb., two oz. of butter, two egg-yolks, a

few tablespoonfuls of thick cream, and a little _salpicon_ of the white

of a chicken, tongue, truffles, and mushrooms. Fill the potato-shells

with this preparation; readjust the covers, and set them in the oven

for ten minutes.

On withdrawing them from the oven, set the potatoes on a dish, and

glaze them with melted butter.

2246—POMMES DE TERRE VOISIN

Prepare these exactly like “Pommes Anna,” but sprinkle each layer of

potato-roundels with grated cheese. The cooking is the same.

2247—POMMES NANA (For Garnishing)

Cut the potatoes into a _julienne_; season them, and mould them by

heaping them into well-buttered, _dariole_-moulds. Cook them, like

“Pommes Anna” (for garnishing), on a tray containing some very hot fat.

On taking them out of the oven, turn them out and sprinkle them with

Château sauce.

2248—MASHED POTATOES

Peel and quarter some Dutch potatoes, and quickly cook them in salted

water. When they feel soft to the touch, drain them; rub them through a

sieve, and work the purée vigorously with three oz. of butter per lb.

of potatoes. Then add, little by little, about one-half pint of boiling

milk, in order to bring the purée to the required consistence. Heat

without boiling, and serve.

Remember that mashed potatoes should be only just cooked, and that if

they be allowed to wait they lose all their quality.

2249—QUENELLES DE POMMES DE TERRE

Prepare a composition as for “Pommes Duchesse,” and add thereto (per

two lbs.) three whole eggs and one-third lb. of flour. Divide up the

preparation into one and one-half oz. portions; mould these to the

shape of corks or quoits, or mould them by means of a spoon, and set

them in a buttered sautépan. Poach them in salted water; drain them;

set them on a buttered dish sprinkled with grated cheese; dredge with

grated cheese; sprinkle with melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to

form.

On taking the dish out of the oven, sprinkle the quenelles with

nut-brown butter.

2250—SOUFFLÉ DE POMMES DE TERRE

Prepare a pint of mashed potatoes with cream; add thereto the raw

yolks of three eggs and their whites beaten to a stiff froth. Set in a

buttered _soufflé_ saucepan, or in small porcelain cases, and cook like

an ordinary _soufflé_.

=Rice (Riz)=

2251—RIZ AU BLANC (For Fowls and Eggs)

Wash one-half lb. of Carolina rice; put it into a saucepan; cover it

with plenty of cold water; salt it, and parboil it for one-quarter hour.

This done, drain it and put it into a sautépan with two and

one-half oz. of butter cut into small pieces. Mix with a fork; cover,

and place in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes.

2252—RIZ AU GRAS

Parboil one-half lb. of Carolina rice; drain it; fry it in butter, and

moisten it with twice as much white and rather fat consommé as would be

needed just to cover it. Set to boil, and then cook it gently in the

oven for fifteen minutes.

2253—RIZ A LA GRECQUE

Prepare some “Pilaff” rice. Add to it, per lb. of its weight one

half-onion, chopped and fried in butter, together with two oz. of fat

sausage-meat, divided into small portions, and two oz. of _ciseled_

lettuce; cook the whole, and complete with one-quarter pint of peas,

cooked “à la Française,” and one and one-half oz. of red capsicums cut

into dice.

This garnish is mixed with the rice seven or eight minutes before

serving.

2254—RIZ A L’INDIENNE

Parboil one-half lb. of Patna rice in salted water, for fifteen

minutes; stirring it from time to time the while.

Drain it; wash it in several cold waters; lay it on a napkin, and

set the latter on a tray or on a sieve. Dry for fifteen minutes in a

steamer or in a very moderate oven.

2255—RIZ PILAFF

Fry one chopped half-onion and one-half lb. of Carolina rice in two oz.

of butter. Stir over the fire, until the rice is well affected all

over; moisten with one quart of white consommé; cover, and cook in a

moderate oven for eighteen minutes. Transfer it to another saucepan as

soon as it is cooked.

2256—PILAFF RICE (For the Stuffing of Fowls)

Pilaff rice is frequently used in stuffing fowls.

For this purpose, when it is cooked, it is combined (per quart) with

a little cream, four oz. of foie-gras dice, and as much truffle, also

in dice. The rice should only be three-parts cooked for stuffings; for

it completes its cooking inside the bird. For this reason the cream is

added, that the rice may absorb it while its cooking is being completed.

2257—RIZ PILAFF A LA TURQUE

Prepare some pilaff rice as directed under No. 2255, and, while it is

cooking, add to it enough saffron to make it of a nice, golden colour.

When cooked, add four oz. of peeled and _concassed_ tomatoes to it.

2258—RIZOTTO A LA PIÉMONTAISE

Fry a medium-sized onion in butter, and add to it one-half lb. of

Piedmont rice. Put the rice on the side of the stove; add some saffron

to it and stir it until it is well saturated with butter. Moisten the

rice with about one quart of consommé per lb. The consommé should be

added to the rice in seven or eight instalments, and as fast as it

becomes absorbed, a fresh supply should be forthcoming. When adding the

liquor, stir the rice with a wooden spoon.

Cook the rice under cover, and, to the resulting preparation, which

should thus be creamy, add a few pieces of fresh butter and some grated

Parmesan.

The dish may be finished, either with shavings of white truffles or ham

cut into dice.

2259—SALSIFY or OYSTER PLANT (Salsifis)

There are two kinds of salsify:—the white and the black, which is also

called “viper’s grass.”

After having carefully scraped and washed it, cook it in a _blanc_. The

same preparations suit the two kinds.

2260—FRIED SALSIFY

After having thoroughly drained it, cut it into three and one-half

lengths, and put these on a dish.

Season with salt and pepper; add lemon juice, a few drops of oil, some

chopped parsley, and leave to _marinade_ for from twenty-five to thirty

minutes, taking care to toss the salsify from time to time. This done,

drain the lengths of salsify, dip them in some thin batter; plunge them

in very hot fat, and drain them when the batter is quite dry. Dish them

on a napkin with fried parsley.

N.B.—It is not absolutely necessary to _marinade_ salsify; the question

is one of taste.

2261—SALSIFIS SAUTÉ

Cut it into two-inch lengths; dry them very well, and toss these in

butter in an omelet-pan, until they are of a nice golden colour.

Season, and dish in a timbale with fried parsley.

2262—SALSIFIS A LA CRÈME

Proceed as directed in the case of other vegetables prepared in this

way.

=Tomatoes=

2263—GRILLED TOMATOES

Take some whole tomatoes, if possible; oil them copiously, and grill

them gently.

2264—TOMATES FARCIES

If the tomatoes to be stuffed be large, cut them in two laterally; if

they be medium-sized or small, a lateral slice cut from their stem-ends

is sufficient. In any case, press them slightly in order to exude their

juice and seeds; season them inside with salt and pepper; set them on

an oiled tray, and half-cook them in the oven.

Finally, stuff them as their designation on the menu requires.

2265—TOMATES FARCIES AU GRATIN

Having prepared the tomatoes as above, stuff them with somewhat stiff

Duxelles; sprinkle with raspings and a few drops of oil, and set the

_gratin_ to form in a hot oven.

On taking the dish out of the oven, surround the tomatoes with a thread

of clear _tomatéd_ half-glaze sauce.

2266—TOMATES FARCIES A LA PROVENÇALE

Prepare the tomatoes as follows:—Cut them in two; remove their seeds;

season them, and place them, cut side undermost, in an omelet-pan

containing very hot oil. Turn them over when they are half-cooked;

cook them for a little while longer; lay them on a _gratin_-dish, and

stuff them with the following preparation:—For six tomatoes, fry two

tablespoonfuls of chopped onion in oil; add four peeled, pressed, and

_concassed_ tomatoes, a pinch of chopped parsley, and a crushed clove

of garlic, and cook under cover for twelve minutes. Complete with four

tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, soaked in consommé and rubbed through

a sieve; two anchovies also rubbed through a sieve, and finish with

some somewhat fat, braised-beef gravy. When the tomatoes are stuffed,

sprinkle them with bread-crumbs combined with grated cheese; sprinkle

with oil, and set the _gratin_ to form.

These tomatoes may be served either hot or cold.

2267—TOMATES FARCIES A LA PORTUGAISE

Stuff the tomatoes with pilaff rice combined with a quarter of its

volume of _concassed_ tomatoes. Dish this rice in the shape of a

regular dome, and sprinkle it with chopped parsley.

N.B.—In addition to the above recipes, tomatoes prepared as already

directed may also be garnished with minced chicken or lamb meat, or

with scrambled eggs, sprinkled with grated Parmesan, and then set to

glaze at the salamander.

2268—TOMATES SAUTÉES A LA PROVENÇALE

Having halved, pressed, and seasoned the tomatoes, put them, cut side

undermost, in an omelet-pan containing very hot oil. Turn them over

when they are half-cooked, and sprinkle them with a little chopped

parsley, together with a mite of garlic, and some bread-crumbs. Place

them in a moderate oven in order to finish their cooking, and dish the

tomatoes the moment they are withdrawn from the oven.

2269—PURÉE DE TOMATES

See Tomato Sauce (No. 29).

2270—SOUFFLÉ DE TOMATES A LA NAPOLITAINE

Prepare one-half pint of very reduced tomato purée, and combine

therewith two oz. of grated Parmesan, two tablespoonfuls of very stiff

Béchamel sauce, and the yolks of three eggs.

Add the three whites, beaten to a stiff froth, and spread the

preparation in layers in a buttered, _soufflé_ timbale; setting upon

each layer a litter of freshly-cooked macaroni, cohered with butter and

grated Parmesan. Cook like an ordinary _soufflé_.

=Jerusalem Artichokes (Topinambours)=

2271—TOPINAMBOURS A L’ANGLAISE

Cut the Jerusalem artichokes to the shape of large olives, and gently

cook them in butter, without colouration. Season them, and cohere them

with a little thin Béchamel sauce.

2272—TOPINAMBOURS FRITS

Peel and cut the Jerusalem artichokes into thick slices. Cook these in

butter; dip them in batter, and fry them at the last moment.

2273—PURÉE DE TOPINAMBOURS

Peel, slice, and cook the Jerusalem artichokes in butter. Rub them

through a sieve, and work the purée over the fire, with two oz. of

butter per lb. Add enough mashed potatoes to thicken the preparation,

and complete with a few tablespoonfuls of boiling milk.

2274—SOUFFLÉ DE TOPINAMBOURS

Proceed as for No. 2250.

=Truffles (Truffes)=

Truffles are used especially as a garnish; but they may also be served

as a vegetable or a hors-d’œuvre.

When so served, they should be prepared very simply; for they require

no refining treatment to make them perfect.

2275—TRUFFES SOUS LA CENDRE

Take some large truffles, and clean them well. Season them with salt

and pepper and a few drops of liqueur brandy; completely enclose them

in a layer of patty paste, and bake them in the oven from twenty-five

to thirty minutes.

Serve them in their case of paste.

2276—TRUFFES AU CHAMPAGNE

Take some fine, well-cleaned truffles; season them, and cook them, with

lid on, in champagne.

This done, set them in a timbale, or in small silver saucepans.

Almost completely reduce the champagne; add thereto a little thin,

strong, veal stock; strain the whole through muslin; pour it over the

truffles, and place these on the side of the stove for ten minutes

without allowing the stock to boil.

2277—TRUFFES A LA CRÈME

Cut one lb. of raw, peeled truffles into thick slices. Season them with

salt and pepper, and cook them very gently in two oz. of butter and a

few drops of burnt liqueur brandy.

Reduce to a stiff consistence one-half pint of cream with three

tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce; add some truffle cooking-liquor and

the necessary quantity of cream; complete with two oz. of best butter;

mix the truffles with this sauce, and serve in a vol-au-vent crust.

2278—TRUFFES A LA SERVIETTE

Under this head are served “Truffes au Champagne,” the recipe for which

is given above, but the champagne should be replaced by Madeira.

Dish them in a timbale, set in a napkin folded to represent an

artichoke. But it would be very much more reasonable to serve “Truffes

à la cendre” under this head, serving them under a folded napkin, as

for “Pommes de terre en robe de chambre” (potatoes in their skins).

2279—TIMBALE DE TRUFFES

Line a buttered timbale mould with ordinary patty paste.

Garnish its bottom and sides with slices of bacon, and fill up the

mould with raw, peeled truffles, seasoned with salt and pepper.

Add a glassful of Madeira, two tablespoonfuls of pale chicken or veal

glaze; cover with a slice of bacon, and close up the timbale, in the

usual way, with a layer of paste.

_Gild_ with beaten eggs, and bake in a hot oven for fifty minutes. When

about to serve, turn out and dish on a napkin.

=Farinaceous Products=

2280—GNOCHI AU GRATIN

Prepare a “pâte à choux” after recipe No. 2374, from the following

ingredients:—one pint of milk, a pinch of salt, and a little nutmeg,

four oz. of butter, two-thirds lb. of flour, and six eggs. When the

paste is ready, combine with it four oz. of grated Parmesan. Divide

this paste into portions the size of walnuts; drop them into boiling,

salted water, and poach them.

As soon as the gnochi rise to the surface of the water, and seem

resilient to the touch, drain them on a piece of linen.

Coat the bottom of a _gratin_-dish with Mornay sauce; set the gnochi

upon the latter; cover them with the same sauce; sprinkle with grated

cheese and melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form in a moderate

oven for from fifteen to twenty minutes.

2281—GNOCHI A LA ROMAINE

Scatter two-thirds lb. of semolina over a quart of boiling milk. Season

with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and cook gently for twenty minutes. Take

the utensil off the fire; thicken the semolina with the yolks of two

eggs, and spread it on a moistened tray, in a layer one-half in. thick.

When it is quite cold stamp it out with a round cutter, two in. in

diameter. Set the gnochi in shallow, buttered timbales; sprinkle with

grated Gruyère and Parmesan, and with a little melted butter, and set

the _gratin_ to form.

2282—GNOCHI DE POMMES DE TERRE

Cook two lbs. of potatoes in the English way. Drain them as soon as

they are cooked, and work the purée, while it is very hot, with one and

one-half oz. of butter, two small eggs, two egg-yolks, one-third lb.

of flour, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Divide up this preparation into

portions the size of walnuts; roll them into balls; press upon them

lightly with a fork to give them a criss-cross pattern, and poach them

in boiling water.

Drain them on a piece of linen; dish them in layers, sprinkling some

grated cheese between each layer; sprinkle some grated cheese over the

top surface; bedew liberally with melted butter, and set the _gratin_

to form in a hot oven.

2283—NOQUES AU PARMESAN

Put into a previously-heated basin one-half lb. of _manied_ butter, and

work the latter with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; adding to it, little by

little, two eggs and two well-beaten egg-yolks, five oz. of flour, and

the white of an egg, also beaten to a stiff froth.

Divide up the preparation into portions the size of hazel-nuts; drop

these portions into a sautépan of boiling, salted water, and let them

poach.

Drain the noques on a piece of linen; dish them in a timbale; sprinkle

them copiously with grated cheese and with nut-brown butter.

2284—MACARONI

Under this head are included all tubular pastes from Spaghetti, the

size of which is not larger than thick vermicelli, to canneloni, the

bore of which is one-half in. in diameter.

All these pastes are cooked in boiling water, salted to the extent

of one-third oz. per quart. Macaroni, like other pastes of a similar

nature, should not be cooled.

The most one can do, if the cooking has to be stopped at a given

moment, is to pour a little cold water into the saucepan and then to

take it off the fire.

2285—MACARONI A L’ITALIENNE

Cook the macaroni in boiling water; completely drain it; put it into a

sautépan, and toss it over the fire to dry.

Season it with salt, pepper and nutmeg; cohere it with five oz. of

grated Gruyère and Parmesan, in equal quantities, and two oz. of

butter, cut into small pieces, per lb. of macaroni. _Sauté_ the whole

well to ensure the leason, and dish in a timbale.

2286—MACARONI AU GRATIN

Prepare the macaroni after No. 2285, adding to it a little Béchamel

sauce; and set it on a buttered _gratin_-dish, besprinkled with grated

cheese. Sprinkle the surface of the preparation with grated cheese and

raspings, mixed, and with melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form

in a fierce oven.

2287—MACARONI AU JUS

Parboil the macaroni in salted water, keeping it somewhat firm: drain

it, cut it into short lengths, and simmer it in beef braising-liquor,

until the macaroni has almost entirely absorbed the latter.

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a few tablespoonfuls of the same

liquor.

2288—MACARONI A LA NANTUA

Having cooked, drained and dried the macaroni, cohere it with crayfish

cream, and mix therewith twenty-four crayfishes’ tails per lb. of

macaroni.

Dish in a timbale, and cover the macaroni with a _julienne_ of very

black truffles.

2289—MACARONI A LA NAPOLITAINE

Prepare a beef estouffade with red wine and tomatoes; cook it for from

ten to twelve hours, that it may be reduced to a purée.

Rub this estouffade through a sieve and put it aside.

Parboil some thick macaroni, keeping it somewhat firm; drain it; cut it

into short lengths, and cohere it with butter.

Sprinkle the bottom of a timbale with grated cheese; cover with a

layer of estouffade purée; spread a layer of macaroni upon the latter,

and proceed in the same order until the timbale is full. Serve the

preparation as it stands.

2290—MACARONI AUX TRUFFES BLANCHES

Prepare the macaroni as directed under No. 2285, and add to it six oz.

of white Piedmont truffles (cut into thin shavings), per lb. of

macaroni.

Leave the preparation covered for five minutes and dish in a timbale.

2291—NOODLES (Nouilles)

These are generally bought ready-made. If one wish to prepare them

oneself, the constituents of the paste are:—one lb. of flour,

one-half oz. of salt, three whole eggs, and five egg-yolks. Moisten as

for an ordinary paste, roll it out twice on a board, and leave it to

stand for one or two hours before cutting it up.

All macaroni recipes may be applied to noodles.

For “Nouilles à l’Alsacienne,” it is usual, when the preparation is

ready in the timbale, to distribute over it a few raw noodles _sautéd_

in butter and kept very crisp.

=Kache=

Kache is not a vegetable; but since this preparation has appeared

either as a constituent or an accompaniment of certain Russian dishes

which occur in this work, I am obliged to refer to it.

2292—KACHE DE SEMOULE POUR COULIBIAC

Take some coarse, yellow semolina, and scatter it over three times its

bulk of boiling consommé. Cook it gently for twenty-five minutes; drain

it on a sieve; spread it on a tray, and place it in a moderate oven to

dry. This done, rub it lightly through a coarse sieve with the view of

separating the grains, and put it aside in the dry until wanted.

2293—KACHE DE SARRASIN POUR POTAGES

Moisten one lb. of _concassed_ buckwheat with enough tepid water to

make a stiff paste; add the necessary salt, and put this paste in a

large Charlotte-mould. Bake in a hot oven for two hours. Then remove

the thick crust which has formed upon the preparation, and transfer

what remains, by means of a spoon, to a basin. Mix therewith two oz.

of butter while it is still hot.

Kache prepared in this way may be served in a special timbale. But it

is more often spread in a thin layer on a buttered tray, and left to

cool.

It is then cut into roundels one in. in diameter, and these are rolled

in flour and coloured on both sides in very hot, clarified butter.

2294—POLENTA

In a quart of boiling water containing one-half oz. of salt, immerse

two-thirds lb. of maize flour, stirring the while with a spoon, that

the two may mix. Cook for twenty-five minutes; add two oz. of butter

and two and one-half oz. of grated Parmesan. If the Polenta be prepared

for a vegetable or a garnish, it is spread in a thin layer on a

moistened tray. When cold, it is cut into roundels or lozenges, which

are first browned in butter, dished, and then sprinkled with grated

cheese and nut-brown butter.

2295—SOUFFLÉ PIÉMONTAIS

Boil one pint of milk with one-fifth oz. of salt; sprinkle on it

two oz. of maize flour; mix well; cover, and cook in a mild oven for

twenty-five minutes.

Then transfer the paste to another saucepan; work it with one and

one-half oz. of butter and as much grated Parmesan; mix therewith one

egg, two egg-yolks, and the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff

froth.

Dish in a buttered timbale; sprinkle with grated cheese, and cook like

an ordinary _soufflé_.

2295a—SOUFFLÉ AU PARMESAN

Mix one lb. of flour and two and one-half pints of milk in a saucepan.

Add a little salt, pepper and nutmeg, and set the preparation to boil,

stirring it constantly the while.

As soon as the boil is reached, take the saucepan off the fire, and add

one lb. of grated Parmesan, three oz. of butter, and ten egg-yolks. Rub

the whole through tammy and then combine with it the whites of ten eggs

whisked to a stiff froth.

Mould in a silver timbale, lined with a band of buttered paper, and

bake in the oven for from twenty to twenty-five minutes.

2296—RAVIOLI

Whatever be their garnish, _ravioli_ are always prepared in the same

way. The stuffings given below represent the most usual forms of

garnish.

STUFFING A

Mix one-half lb. of finely-chopped, cooked chicken-meat; five oz. of

cooked and crushed brains; three oz. of pressed white cheese; three oz.

of chopped, pressed and _blanched_ spinach; three oz. of parboiled

green borage; a pinch of green sweet basil; five oz. of grated

Parmesan; two eggs; two egg-yolks; salt, pepper and nutmeg.

STUFFING B

Mix two-thirds lb. of well-cooked, cold and finely-chopped daube of

beef; two-thirds lb. of parboiled, pressed, and chopped spinach;

one oz. of chopped shallots; five oz. of a purée of cooked brain; two

whole eggs, salt, pepper and nutmeg.

STUFFING C

Toss one-half lb. of chickens’ livers in butter; add to it two chopped

shallots, a pinch of parsley, and a little crushed garlic. Finely pound

the livers, and add successively one-half lb. of parboiled, cooled and

fresh spinach; two anchovy fillets; three oz. of butter; three eggs,

salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sweet basil. Rub the whole through

a sieve.

2297—THE PREPARATION OF RAVIOLI

They may be made in various shapes as follows:—

(1) Roll a piece of noodle paste to a thin layer and stamp it out

with a grooved cutter, two and one-half in. in diameter. Moisten the

edges of each roundel of paste; garnish the centre of each with a ball

of one of the above stuffings, the size of a hazel-nut, and fold in

slipper-form.

(2) Roll the paste into a rectangle of four-in. sides; garnish with

stuffing, leaving a gap between the portions of the latter; moisten the

edges of the paste, and close up by drawing these together. Finally

stamp out with a grooved, crescent-shaped fancy-cutter.

(3) Prepare a square layer of paste; garnish it with lines consisting

of portions of paste; leave a space of two in. between the lines.

Moisten; cover with a second layer of paste, of the same dimensions as

the first, and divide up, by means of the roulette, into squares of

two-in. sides. Whatever be the shape of the _ravioli_, plunge them into

a saucepan of slightly salted boiling water; poach them for from eight

to ten minutes, and drain them.

Set them on a buttered _gratin_-dish, sprinkled with grated cheese;

sprinkle them with good beef gravy; then again with grated cheese, and

set the _gratin_ to form. Or, dish the _ravioli_ in layers, sprinkling

each layer with grated cheese and gravy. Complete with some grated

cheese, and set the _gratin_ to form in the usual way.

N.B.—The _ravioli_ may also be served, merely sprinkled with grated

cheese and nut-brown butter.