«SCREWS:»
«To Prevent Screws from Rusting and Becoming Fast.»—Screws will
sometimes rust in their seats, even when carefully oiled before driving
them to their seats, but if they are anointed with a mixture of
graphite and soft tallow they will remain unrusted and unaltered for
years.
A screw rusted in may also be removed by placing the flat extremity
of a red-hot rod of iron on it for 2 or 3 minutes. When the screw is
heated, it will be found to turn quite easily.
SCREWS, BLUEING: See Steel.
SCREWS IN WATCHES: See Watchmakers’ Formulas. {630}
SEALING (BURNING) TRICK: See Pyrotechnics.
SEALING WAX: See Waxes.
«SEA SICKNESS.»
I.—To prevent sea sickness, take 2 or 3 grams of potassium bromide
dissolved in plain or carbonated water every evening either with supper
or just before retiring for several weeks before going on the voyage.
During the voyage, breathing should be deep and a tight bandage should
be worn around the abdomen.
II.—Menthol 0.1 part
Cocaine hydrochloride 0.2 parts
Alcohol 60.0 parts
Syrup 30.0 parts
A dessertspoonful to be taken at intervals of half an hour.
SEASONINGS: See Condiments.
SEED, BIRD: See Bird Foods.
SEEDS, TESTS FOR FOREIGN: See Foods.
SEIDLITZ POWDERS: See Salts (Effervescent).
SELTZER WATER: See Water.
«SERPENTS, PHARAOH’S.»
An old form consisted of pellets of a very poisonous mercurial compound
which gave off dangerous fumes when heated. The “eggs” may be made of
comparatively safe material by the following formula:
Potassium bichromate 2 parts
Potassium nitrate 1 part
White sugar 2 parts
Powder each ingredient separately, mix, and press into small paper
cones. These must be kept from light and moisture.
Of course, neither this nor other chemical toys containing substances
in the slightest degree harmful if swallowed should be placed in the
hands of children not old enough fully to understand the danger of
eating or even tasting unknown things.
SERVIETTES MAGIQUES: See Polishes.
SETTING OF TOOLS: See Tool Setting.
SEWING-MACHINE OIL: See Lubricants.
SHAMPOO LOTIONS AND PASTES: See Hair Restorers and Soaps.
SHARPENING PASTES: See Razor Pastes.
SHARPENING STONES: See Whetstones.
«SHAVING PASTE.»
An emulsion of paraffine wax, melting at 131° F., should be used. This
is prepared with 25 per cent of wax and 2 per cent of tragacanth, the
wax being melted and mixed with the tragacanth previously made into a
mucilage with some of the water. The addition of a little stearine or
lard renders the emulsification of the wax easier, while about 10 per
cent of alcohol makes the preparation more agreeable to use. The fatty
odor of the preparation may be covered by the addition of 1/2 to 1
per cent of lavender oil, and the finished product then appears as a
thick white cream. In use a small quantity is rubbed over the area
to be shaved and the razor immediately applied. As the water in the
emulsion evaporates, the particles of wax previously distributed in the
emulsion become coherent and fill up the depressions in the surface of
the skin from which the hairs arise, thus forming a mechanical support
during the passage of the razor. The quantity required is very small, 1
ounce being sufficient for shaving the face about 6 times.
SHAVING SOAP: See Soap.
SHEEP-DIPS: See Disinfectants.
SHEEP DISEASES: See Veterinary Formulas.
«SHELL CAMEOS.»
If shell cameos and corals have become too hot in cementing and cracks
have appeared in consequence, olive oil is applied and allowed to soak
in by heating. The same process is employed for shell cameos which have
developed white fissures, owing to being filed smaller.
SHELL, IMITATION OF: See Casein Compounds.
SHELLS, LUBRICANTS FOR REDRAWING: See Lubricants. {631}
SHELL POLISHES: See Polishes.
SHELLAC: See Varnishes.
«SHELLAC BLEACHING.»
In bleaching, shellac is brought into contact with an acidified
solution of chloride of lime for some time, then washed, kneaded in hot
water, placed back into the chloride of lime solution, and brushed.
Through this treatment with the chloride of lime solution the bleached
shellac sometimes loses its solubility in alcohol, which, however, can
be restored if the shellac is melted in boiling water, or if it is
moistened with a little ether in a well-closed vessel. A quantity of
ether in the proportion of 1 part to 20 parts shellac is sufficient.
Great caution is recommended in the handling of ether. The ether vapors
easily ignite when in proximity to a burning light and a mixture of
ether vapor and atmospheric air may cause most vehement explosions.
After an action of the ether upon the shellac for several hours, the
alcohol necessary to dissolve it may either be added directly or the
shellac moistened with ether is placed in the open air for half an hour
in a dish, after which time the ether will have evaporated and the
shellac can then be dissolved by the use of alcohol.
Bleached shellac is known to lose its solubility in alcohol, especially
if treated with chlorine in bleaching. This solubility can be readily
restored, however, by first moistening the rosin with 1/20 its weight
of ether, placing it in a closed vessel and allowing it to swell there.
Shellac thus treated becomes perfectly soluble again.
«SHIMS IN ENGINE BRASSES.»
In taking up the wear of engine brasses on wrist pin or crosshead
pin when the key is driven clear down, back out the key and instead
of putting in sheet-iron shims, put in a small piece of pine wood of
just the right thickness to allow the key to come even with the under
side of the strap, then pour in melted babbitt. A hole must be drilled
through the flange of the brasses to allow for pouring the babbitt.
Every engineer knows the trouble it is to put several shims between
the brass box and the end of the strap, especially if the box is a
round-end one, as many are. By using the method described, brasses may
be worn up much closer, even if worn through; the babbitt will form
part of the bearing.
«Shoe Dressings»
(See also Leather.)
«Acid-Free Blacking.»—
Lampblack 27–36 parts
Bone black 3 parts
Syrup 60–70 parts
Put in a kettle and under gentle heat stir together until a smooth,
homogeneous mass has been attained. In another kettle put 3 parts
of finely shredded gutta percha and warm over an open fire until it
begins to run, then add, with constant stirring, 5 parts of olive oil,
continuing the heat until the gum is completely dissolved. When this
occurs dissolve in 1 part of stearine, and add the whole while still
hot in a slow stream, and under diligent and constant stirring, to the
mixture of syrup and blacks. Continue the agitation of the mass until
it is completely homogeneous. Now dissolve 4 parts of Senegal gum in 12
parts of water, and add the solution to the foregoing mass. Stir well
in and finally add sufficient mirbane (about 1/5 part) to perfume.
«Blacking Pastes.»—While shellac is not soluble in water alone, it
is soluble in water carrying borax, the alkaline carbonates, etc. In
paste blacking the object of the sulphuric acid is to remove from the
bone black the residual calcium phosphate. The ordinary bone black of
commerce consists of only about 10 per cent of carbon, the residue
being chiefly calcium phosphate. This is the reason that we cannot
obtain a pure black color from it, but a dirty brown. To make a good
blacking, one that is of a black in color, either use purified bone
black, or a mineral acid (sulphuric or hydrochloric acid) with crude
bone black. The residual acid is entirely neutralized by the sodium
carbonate and has no bad effect on the leather. The following formula
contains no acid and makes a good paste:
I.—Marseilles soap 122 parts
Potassium carbonate 61 parts
Beeswax 500 parts
Water 2,000 parts
Mix and boil together with occasional stirring until a smooth,
homogeneous paste is obtained, then add, a little at a time, and under
constant stirring, the following: {632}
Rock candy, powdered 153 parts
Gum arabic, powdered 61 parts
Ivory black 1,000 parts
Stir until homogeneous, then pour, while still hot, into boxes.
The following makes a very brilliant and durable black polish for shoes:
II.—Bone black 40 parts
Sulphuric acid 10 parts
Fish oil 10 parts
Sodium carbonate crystal 18 parts
Sugar, common brown, or molasses 20 parts
Liquid glue, prepared as below 20 parts
Water, sufficient.
Soak 10 parts of good white glue in 40 parts of cold water for 4 hours,
then dissolve by the application of gentle heat, and add 1.8 parts
of glycerine (commercial). Set aside. Dissolve the sodium carbonate
in sufficient water to make a cold saturated solution (about 3 parts
of water at 60° F.), and set aside. In an earthenware vessel moisten
the bone black with a very little water, and stirring it about with
a stick, add the sulphuric acid, slowly. Agitate until a thick
dough-like mass is obtained, then add and incorporate the fish oil.
Any sort of animal oil, or even colza will answer, but it is best to
avoid high-smelling oils. Add a little at a time, and under vigorous
stirring, sufficient of the saturated sodium carbonate solution to
cause effervescence. Be careful not to add so freely as to liquefy the
mass. Stir until effervescence ceases, then add the molasses or sugar,
the first, if a soft, damp paste is desired, and the latter if a dryer
one is wanted. Finally, add, a little at a time, and under constant
stirring, sufficient of the solution of glue to make a paste of the
desired consistency. The exact amount of this last ingredient that is
necessary must be learned by experience. It is a very important factor,
as it gives the finished product a depth and brilliancy that it could
not otherwise have, as well as a certain durability, in which most of
the blackings now on the market are deficient.
III.—Soap 122 parts
Potassium carbonate 61 parts
Beeswax 500 parts
Water 2,000 parts
Mix and boil together until a smooth, homogeneous paste is obtained,
then add
Bone black 1,000 parts
Powdered sugar 153 parts
Powdered gum arabic 61 parts
Mix thoroughly, remove from the fire, and pour while still hot into
boxes.
«Boot-Top Liquid.»—
Solution of muriate of tin 3 drachms
French chalk (in powder) 1 ounce
Salt of sorrel 1/2 ounce
Flake white 1 ounce
Burnt alum 1/2 ounce
Cuttle-fish bones (powdered) 1 ounce
White arsenic 1 ounce
Boiling water 1 quart
«Brown Dressing for Untanned Shoes.»—
Yellow wax 30 parts
Soap 12 parts
Nankin yellow 15 parts
Oil of turpentine 100 parts
Alcohol 12 parts
Water 100 parts
Dissolve in the water bath the wax in the oil of turpentine; dissolve,
also by the aid of heat, the soap in the water, and the Nankin yellow
(or in place of that any of the yellow coal-tar colors) in the alcohol.
Mix the solutions while hot, and stir constantly until cold. The
preparation is smeared over the shoes in the usual way, rubbed with a
brush until evenly distributed, and finally polished with an old silk
or linen cloth.
«Heel Polish.»—
I.—Carnauba wax 5 parts
Japanese wax 5 parts
Paraffine 5 parts
Oil of turpentine 50 parts
Lampblack 1 part
Wine black 2 parts
Melt the wax and the paraffine, and when this has become lukewarm,
add the turpentine oil, and finally the lampblack and the wine black.
When the black color has become evenly distributed, pour, while still
lukewarm, into tin cans.
II.—Melt together Japanese wax, 100 parts; carnauba wax, 100 parts;
paraffine, 100 parts; and mix with turpentine oil, 500 parts, as
well as a trituration of lampblack, 10 parts; wine black, 20 parts;
turpentine oil, 70 parts. {633}
«LIQUID BLACKINGS.»
The following formulas make a product of excellent quality:
I.—Ivory black 120 parts
Brown sugar 90 parts
Olive oil 15 parts
Stale beer 500 parts
Mix the black, sugar and olive oil into a smooth paste, adding the
beer, a little at a time, under constant stirring. Let stand for 24
hours, then put into flasks, lightly stoppered.
II.—Ivory black 200 parts
Molasses 200 parts
Gallnuts, bruised 12 parts
Iron sulphate 12 parts
Sulphuric acid 40 parts
Boiling water 700 parts
Mix the molasses and ivory black in an earthen vessel. In an iron
vessel let the gallnuts infuse in 100 parts of boiling water for 1
hour, then strain and set aside. In another vessel dissolve the iron
sulphate; in another, 100 parts of the boiling water. One-half of this
solution is added at once to the molasses mixture. To the remaining
half add the sulphuric acid, and pour the mixture, a little at a
time, under constant stirring, into the earthen vessel containing the
molasses mixture. The mass will swell up and thicken, but as soon as it
commences to subside, add the infusion of gallnuts, also under vigorous
stirring. If a paste blacking is desired the preparation is now
complete. For a liquid black add the remaining portion of the boiling
water (500 parts), stir thoroughly and bottle.
«Patent-Leather Polish.»—
Yellow wax or ceresine 3 ounces
Spermaceti 1 ounce
Oil of turpentine 11 ounces
Asphaltum varnish 1 ounce
Borax 80 grains
Frankfort black 1 ounce
Prussian blue 150 grains
Melt the wax, add the borax, and stir until an emulsion has been
formed. In another pan melt the spermaceti; add the varnish, previously
mixed with the turpentine; stir well and add to the wax; lastly add the
colors.
«Preservatives for Shoe Soles.»—I.—This preparation, destined for
impregnating leather shoe soles, is produced as follows: Grind 50 parts
of linseed oil with 1 part of litharge; next heat for 2 hours to the
boiling point with 1/4 part of zinc vitriol, which is previously
calcined (dehydrated). The composition obtained in this manner, when
perfectly cold, is mixed with 8 parts of benzine and filled in bottles
or other receptacles. To render this preservative effective, the soles
must be coated with it until the leather absorbs it.
II.—Dissolve ordinary household soap in water; on the other hand,
dissolve an aluminum salt—the cheapest is the commercial aluminum
sulphate—in water and allow both solutions to cool. Now pour the
aluminum salt solution, with constant stirring, into the soap solution,
thereby obtaining a very fine precipitate of aluminum oleate. The
washed-out residue is dried with moderate heat. By adding 10 to 30
per cent to petroleum with slight heating, a solid petroleum of
vaseline-like consistency is received, which may be still further
solidified by additional admixture. A 10 per cent solution of aluminum
oleate in petroleum is a very excellent agent for preserving the soles,
a single saturation of the soles sufficing forever. The sole will last
about 1 year.
III.—The following mixture is prepared by melting together over the
fire in an enameled iron vessel: Vaseline, 400 parts; ceresine, 100
parts. The melted mass, which is used as a grease, is filled in wooden
boxes or tin cans.
IV.—The oleic acid of the stearine factories is heated with strong
alcohol and sulphuric acid. Take 16 parts of oleic acid, 2 parts of
alcohol (90 per cent), and 1 part of concentrated sulphuric acid.
The oleic-acid ether formed separates as a thin brownish oil. It
is liberated from free sulphuric acid and the alcohol in excess by
agitation with warm water and allowing to settle. This oleic-acid
ether is mixed with the same weight of fish oil, and 4 to 8 parts of
nitro-benzol are added per 1,000 parts to disguise the odor.
«TAN AND RUSSET SHOE POLISHES:»
«To Renovate and Brighten Russet and Yellow Shoes.»—First, clean off
all dirt and dust with a good stiff brush, then with a sponge dipped
in benzine go over the leather, repeating the process as soon as the
benzine evaporates. A few wipings will bring back the original color.
Then use a light-yellow dressing and brush well.
The liquid application consists usually of a solution of yellow
wax and soap in oil of turpentine, and it should be a matter of no
difficulty whatever to compound a mixture of this character at least
equal {634} to the preparations on the market. As a type of the mixture
occasionally recommended we may quote the following:
I.—Yellow wax 4 ounces
Pearl ash 4 drachms
Yellow soap 1 drachm
Spirit of turpentine 7 ounces
Phosphine (aniline) 4 grains
Alcohol 4 drachms
Water, a sufficient quantity.
Scrape the wax fine and add it, together with the ash and soap, to
12 ounces of water. Boil all together until a smooth, creamy mass
is obtained; remove the heat and add the turpentine and the aniline
(previously dissolved in the alcohol). Mix thoroughly, and add
sufficient water to bring the finished product up to 1 1/2 pints.
II.—Water 18 parts
Rosin oil 4 1/2 parts
Spirit of sal ammoniac, concentrated 1 1/5 parts
White grain soap 1.93 parts
Russian glue 1.59 parts
Brown rock candy 0.57 parts
Bismarck brown 0.07 parts
Boil all the ingredients together, excepting the pigment; after all
has been dissolved, add the Bismarck brown and filter. The dressing is
applied with a sponge.
III.—Beeswax, yellow 2 ounces
Linseed oil 3 ounces
Oil turpentine 10 ounces
Dissolve by heat of a water bath, and add 1 1/4 ounces soap shavings,
hard yellow. Dissolve this in 14 ounces of hot water.
IV.—A simpler form of liquid mixture consists of equal parts of yellow
wax and palm oil dissolved with the aid of heat in 3 parts of oil of
turpentine.
V.—Soft or green soap 1 ounce
Linseed oil, raw 2 ounces
Annatto solution (in oil) 7 ounces
Yellow wax 2 ounces
Gum turpentine 7 ounces
Water 7 ounces
Dissolve the soap in the water and add the solution of annatto; melt
the wax in the oil of turpentine, and gradually stir in the soap
solution, stirring until cold.
The paste to accompany the foregoing mixtures is composed of yellow wax
and rosin thinned with petrolatum, say 4 parts of wax, 1 part of rosin,
and 12 parts of petrolatum.
«Paste Dressings for Russet Shoes.»—The paste dressings used on russet
leather consist of mixtures of wax with oil and other vehicles which
give a mixture of proper working quality.
A simple formula is:
I.—Yellow wax 9 parts
Oil of turpentine 20 parts
Soap 1 part
Boiling water 20 parts
Dissolve the wax in the turpentine on a water bath and the soap in
the water and stir the two liquids together until the mixture becomes
sufficiently cold to remain homogeneous.
Another formula in which stearine is used is appended:
II.—Wax 1 part
Stearine 2 parts
Linseed oil 1 part
Oil of turpentine 6 parts
Soap 1 part
Water 10 parts
Proceed as above.
Carnauba wax is often used by manufacturers of such dressings instead
of beeswax, as it is harder and takes a higher polish. These dressings
are sometimes colored with finely ground yellow ocher or burnt umber.
If the leather be badly worn, however, it is best to apply a stain
first, and afterwards the waxy dressing.
Suitable stains are made by boiling safflower in water, and annatto
is also used in the same way, the two being sometimes mixed together.
Oxalic acid darkens the color of the safflower. Aniline colors would
also doubtless yield good results with less trouble and expense. By
adding finely ground lampblack to the waxy mixture instead of ocher, it
would answer as a dressing for black leather.
«WATERPROOF SHOE DRESSINGS.»
I.—Caoutchouc 10 parts
Petroleum 10 parts
Carbon disulphide 10 parts
Shellac 40 parts
Lampblack 20 parts
Oil lavender 1 part
Alcohol 200 parts
Upon the caoutchouc in a bottle pour the carbon disulphide, cork
well, and let stand a few days, or until the caoutchouc has become
thoroughly gelatinized or partly dissolved. Then add the petroleum, oil
of lavender, and alcohol, next the shellac in fine powder, and heat it
to about 120° F., taking care that as little as possible is lost by
evaporation. When the substances are all dissolved and the liquid is
tolerably clear, add the {635} lampblack, mix thoroughly, and fill at
once into small bottles.
II.—A waterproof blacking which will give a fine polish without
rubbing, and will not injure the leather:
Beeswax 18 parts
Spermaceti 6 parts
Turpentine oil 66 parts
Asphalt varnish 5 parts
Powdered borax 1 part
Frankfort black 5 parts
Prussian blue 2 parts
Nitro-benzol 1 part
Melt the wax, add the powdered borax and stir till a kind of jelly has
formed. In another pan melt the spermaceti, add the asphalt varnish,
previously mixed with the oil of turpentine, stir well, and add to the
wax. Lastly add the color previously rubbed smooth with a little of the
mass. The nitro-benzol gives fragrance.
«Waterproof Varnish for Beach Shoes.»—
Yellow.—
Water 150 parts
Borax 5 parts
Glycerine 3 parts
Spirit of ammonia 1 part
White shellac 25 parts
Yellow pigment, water soluble 1 part
Formalin, a few drops.
Orange.—
Water 150 parts
Borax 5 parts
Glycerine 2 parts
Spirit of ammonia 1 part
Ruby shellac 22 parts
Orange, water soluble 1 part
Brown 0.3 parts
Formalin 0.1 part
Pale Brown.—
Water 150 parts
Borax 5 parts
Glycerine 2 parts
Spirit of ammonia 0.25 parts
White shellac 25 parts
Yellow, water soluble 8 parts
Orange 0.3 parts
Formalin 0.1 part
Stir the glycerine and the spirit of ammonia together in a special
vessel before putting both into the kettle. It is also advisable,
before the water boils, to pour a little of the nearly boiling water
into a clean vessel and to dissolve the colors therein with good
stirring, adding this solution to the kettle after the shellac has been
dissolved.
White Shoe Dressing.—
I.—Cream of tartar 3 ounces
Oxalic acid 1 ounce
Alum 1 ounce
Milk 3 pints
Mix and rub on the shoes. When they are thoroughly dry, rub them with a
mixture of prepared chalk and magnesium carbonate.
II.—Water 136 parts
Fine pipe clay 454 parts
Shellac, bleached 136 parts
Borax, powdered 68 parts
Soft soap 8 parts
Ultramarine blue 5 parts
Boil the shellac in the water, adding the borax, and keeping up the
boiling until a perfect solution is obtained, then stir in the soap (5
or 6 parts of “ivory” soap, shaved up, and melted with 2 or 3 parts of
water, is better than common soft soap), pipe clay, and ultramarine.
Finally strain through a hair-cloth sieve. This preparation, it is
said, leaves absolutely nothing to be desired. A good deal of stiffness
may be imparted to the leather by it. The addition of a little
glycerine would remedy this. The old application should be wiped away
before a new one is put on. This preparation is suitable for military
shoes, gloves, belts, and uniforms requiring a white dressing.
SHOES, WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing.
SHIO LIAO: See Adhesives, under Cements.
SHIP COMPOSITIONS AND PAINTS: See Paints.
SHOW BOTTLES FOR DRUGGISTS: See Bottles.
«SHOW CASES.»
Dents in show cases and counters, and, indeed, almost all forms of
“bruises” on shop and other furniture, may be removed by the exercise
of a little patience, and proceeding as follows: Sponge the place with
water as warm as can be borne by the hand. Take a piece of filtering or
other bibulous paper large enough to fold 6 or 8 times and yet cover
the bruise, wet in warm water and place over the spot. Take a warm
(not hot) smoothing iron and hold it on the paper until the moisture
is evaporated (renewing its heat, if necessary). If the bruise does
not yield to the first trial, repeat the process. A dent as large as
a {636} dollar and 1/4 inch deep in the center, in black walnut of
tolerably close texture, was brought up smooth and level with the
surrounding surface by two applications of the paper and iron as
described. If the bruise be small, a sponge dipped in warm water placed
upon it, renewing the warmth from time to time, will be all-sufficient.
When the dent is removed and the wood dry, the polish can be restored
by any of the usual processes. If the wood was originally finished in
oil, rub with a little boiled linseed cut with acetic acid (oil, 8
parts; acid, 1 part). If it was “French polished,” apply an alcoholic
solution of shellac, and let dry; repeat if necessary, and when
completely dry proceed as follows: Rub the part covered with shellac,
first with crocus cloth and a few drops of olive oil, until the ridges,
where the new and old polish come together, disappear; wipe with a
slightly greased but otherwise clean rag and finish with putz pomade.
SHOW-CASE SIGNS: See Lettering.
SHOW-CASES, TO PREVENT DIMMING OF: See Glass.
«Siccatives»