fairly well, is produced as follows: The brightly polished and
degreased objects are exposed from 2 to 5 minutes to the vapors of a
heated mixture of concentrated hydrochloric acid and nitric acid (1:1)
until the bronze color becomes visible on the articles. After these
have been rubbed well with vaseline, heat once more until the vaseline
commences to decompose. After cooling, the object is smeared well with
vaseline. If vapors of a mixture of concentrated hydrochloric acid and
nitric acid are allowed to act on the iron object, light reddish-brown
shades are obtained, but if acetic acid is added to the above named
two acids, oxide coatings of a bronze-yellow color can be obtained by
the means of the vapors. By the use of different mixtures of acids any
number of different colorings can be produced.
“Emaille de fer contre-oxide” is the name of an enamel which is said
to protect iron pipes cheaply. The enamel is composed as follows: One
hundred and thirty parts powdered crystal glass, 20.5 parts soda, 12
parts boracic acid. These substances mixed in the most careful manner
are melted together in crucibles, the mass is chilled and transformed
into a fine powder by crushing and grinding. The iron pipes and other
objects of iron are first cleaned in the usual manner by corroding,
dried and then coated with a very dilute gum arabic solution or any
other gluing agent, and the powdered mass is spread over them by means
of a sieve. The objects thus powdered are put in a room which is heated
to 160° C. to drive out all moisture and are heated {624} to dark
redness, at which temperature the oxide coating melts.
Those processes, which produce a black protoxide layer on the iron by
heating iron objects in supersaturated aqueous vapor, have not stood
the test, as the layer formed will drop off or peel off after a short
time, thus opening the way for rust after all.
The anti-rust composition called rubber oil is prepared as follows,
according to the specification of the patent: The crude oil obtained by
the dry distillation of brown oil, peat and other earthy substances is
subjected to a further distillation. Thinly rolled India rubber, cut
in narrow strips, is saturated with four times the bulk of the oil and
left alone for a week or so. The mass thus composed is then subjected
to the action of mineral sperm oil or a similar substance, until an
entirely uniform clear substance has formed. This substance, which is
applied on the metallic surfaces in as thin a layer as possible, forms
a sort of film after slowly drying, which is perfectly proof against
atmospheric influences.
The rust-preventive composition of Jones & Co., Sheffield, is a
composition of wax, fat, turpentine, and small quantities of iron oxide.
According to a process patented by A. Buchner in Germany, the iron
objects are first painted with a mixture of an alkaline glue solution
and rosin soap. The alkaline mass enters all the pores and fissures and
prevents the rust from extending under the coating. After the first
coat is dry a second one is applied of the following composition:
Five parts linseed oil boiled with peroxide of manganese; 2.25 parts
turpentine; 0.25 parts benzol; 20 parts zinc dust, carbonate of
calcium, lead oxide, or peroxide of manganese. The mixing of the
liquid with the powders must be done immediately before use, as the
mass solidifies after 10 hours, and is then no longer of working
consistency. The second coating, which should only be thin, hardens
quickly. The paint is weatherproof, does not peel off or blister, and
adheres so firmly that it can only be removed with mechanical means.
A patented process to prevent rusting of wrought or cast iron consists
in applying with a brush a strong solution of potassium dichromate and
drying in a stove or over an open fire. Drying at ordinary temperature
is not sufficient. To ascertain if the heat is strong enough the iron
is moistened with a little water. So long as this takes up any color
the heat must be increased. When the proper degree of heat is reached
a fine deep black layer results, which is not acted upon by water, and
protects the surface from the action of the atmosphere.
A permanent lustrous rust preventive is secured as follows: The
well-cleaned iron parts are suspended for a few minutes in a blue
vitriol solution, so that a delicate skin of copper forms on the
surface; if the pieces rinsed off with water are then moved about for
a few minutes in a solution of sodium hyposulphite faintly acidulated
with hydrochloric acid, they assume a blue-black coating of copper
sulphide, which is equally permanent in air and in water. The black
surface may be immediately rinsed with water, dried with a rag or
blotting paper, and polished at once. It possesses a steel-blue luster,
adheres well to the iron, will stand treatment with the scratch brush,
and protects against rust in a most satisfactory manner.
«Black Sheet Rust Preventive.»—Before black plate is ready to receive
a rust protective coating, it is necessary to render the surface free
from grease and scales, for which purpose the sheet iron is placed
for some time into a warmed solution of 10 parts of sulphuric acid in
100 parts of water, whereby the impurities become detached, a process
which may be assisted and accelerated by scouring with sand. Then rinse
in clean water and rub dry in sawdust. The sheets thus prepared are
placed for a short while into a feeble solution of blue vitriol, where
they assume a reddish coloring. Next, they are rinsed in water, and
after that moved to and fro, for a short time, in a feeble solution
of hyposulphite of soda acidulated with a little hydrochloric acid.
The result is a dark-blue coating on the sheets, which prevents all
oxidation.
«To Keep Machinery Bright.»—I.—In order to keep machinery from rusting
take 1 ounce of camphor, dissolve it in 1 pound of melted lard; take
off the scum, and mix as much fine black lead as will give it iron
color. Clean the machinery and smear it with this mixture. After 24
hours, rub clean with soft linen cloth. It will keep clean for months
under ordinary circumstances.
II.—Mastic, transparent grains 10 parts
Camphor 5 parts
Sandarac 5 parts
Gum elemi 5 parts
Alcohol, wood, quantity sufficient to dissolve.
{625}
Mix and cover the articles with the solution. The latter will take the
lacquer better if warmed slightly, but may be easily covered in the
cold, if necessary.
«Magnetic Oxide.»—A layer of magnetic oxide is a good preservative
from rust. To obtain it the objects are placed in the furnace at a
temperature sufficient for decomposing steam. Steam superheated to
1,040° F. is then injected for from 4 to 6 hours. The thickness of the
layer of oxide formed varies with the duration of the operation. This
process can replace zincing, enameling, and tinning.
The deposit of magnetic oxide may also be obtained by electrolysis.
The iron object is placed at the anode in a bath of distilled water
heated to 176° F. The cathode is a copper plate, or the vessel itself,
if it is of iron or copper. By electrolysis a layer of magnetic oxide
is formed. Other peroxides may be deposited in the same manner. With
an alkaline solution of litharge, a very adherent, brilliant, black
deposit of peroxide of lead is secured. Too energetic a current must
be avoided, as it would cause a pulverulent deposit. To obtain a good
coating it is necessary, after putting the objects for a moment at
the positive pole, to place them at the other pole until the oxide is
completely reduced, and then bring them back to their first position.
«Paper as Protection for Iron and Steel.»—That paraffine paper is
a very good protector of iron and steel has been proven by tests
conducted by Louis H. Barker for the Pennsylvania Railroad. The mode of
applying the paraffine paper is as follows: After the rust is carefully
cleaned off by means of stiff wire brushes, a tacky paint is applied.
The paper is then covered over and tightly pressed upon the painted
surface, the joints of the paper slightly lapping. As soon as the paper
is in place it is ready for the outside coat of paint. Iron and steel
girders and beams subjected to the action of smoke and gases may thus
be admirably protected from decomposition.
«Anti-Rust Paper for Needles.»—This is paper covered with logwood, and
prepared from a material to which fine graphite powder has been added,
and which has been sized with glue and alum. It is used for wrapping
around steel goods, such as sewing needles, etc., and protecting them
against rust. According to Lake, the paper is treated with sulphuric
acid, like vegetable parchment, the graphite being sprinkled on before
the paper is put into the water.
«Rust Paper.»—Rust paper is produced by coating strong packing paper
with linseed-oil varnish, size, or any other binder, and sprinkling
on the powder given in previous formula. For use the paper must be
moistened with petroleum.
«Anti-Rust Pastes.»—I.—This preparation serves for removing rust
already present, as well as for preventing same, by greasing the
article with it: Melt 5 parts of crude vaseline on the water bath,
and mix with 5 parts of finely levigated powdered pumice stone into a
uniform mass. To the half-way cooled mass add 1/2 part of crude acid
oxalate of potassium (sorrel salt) in a finely powdered state and grind
into complete homogeneity.
II.—Dry tallow, 25 parts; white wax, 23 parts; olive oil, 22 parts; oil
of turpentine, 25 parts; mineral oil, 10 parts. Apply with a brush at
the fusing temperature of the mixture.
«Rust Prevention for Iron Pipes.»—The pieces of pipe are coated with
tar and filled with light wood sawdust, which is set afire. This
method will fully protect the iron from rust for an unlimited period,
rendering a subsequent coat altogether superfluous.
«Rust Preventive for Tools, etc.»—I.—To preserve tools, dies, etc.,
from rust, they should be greased well with yellow vaseline. To use oil
is not advisable, since all oils, except the dear ones, which are too
expensive for this purpose, contain a certain percentage of acid that
has an injurious effect upon the steel and iron articles. For greasing
the cavities use a hard brush.
II.—Carefully heat benzine and add half its weight of white wax, which
dissolves completely in this ratio. This solution is applied to the
tools by means of a brush. It is also said to protect against the
action of acidiferous fumes.
III.—Take a pound of vaseline and melt with it 2 ounces of blue
ointment—what druggists call one-third—and add, to give it a pleasant
odor, a few drops of oil of wintergreen, cinnamon, or sassafras. When
thoroughly mixed pour into a tin can—an old baking-powder can will do.
Keep a rag saturated with the preventive to wipe tools that are liable
to rust.
«To Separate Rusty Pieces.»—By boiling the objects in petroleum,
success is {626} certain. It is necessary to treat them with alcohol
or spirit to avoid subsequent oxidation, petroleum being in itself an
oxidant.
«To Protect Zinc Roofing from Rust.»—Zinc sheets for roofing can easily
be protected against rust by the following simple process. Clean the
plates by immersing them in water to which 5 per cent of sulphuric acid
has been added, then wash with pure water, allow to dry and coat with
asphalt varnish. Asphalt varnish is prepared by dissolving 1 to 2 parts
asphalt in 10 parts benzine; the solution should be poured evenly over
the plates, and the latter placed in an upright position to dry.
RUST SPOT REMOVER: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
SACCHARINE IN FOOD: See Food.
SADDLE GALLS: See Veterinary Formulas.
SADDLE SOAP: See Soap.
SALAMANDRINE DESSERT: See Pyrotechnics.
SALICYL (SWEET): See Dentifrices.
SALICYLIC ACID IN FOOD: See Foods.
SALICYLIC SOAP: See Soap.
«Salts, Effervescent»
Granulated effervescent salts are produced by heating mixtures of
powdered citric acid, tartaric acid, sodium bicarbonate, and sugar to
a certain temperature, until they assume the consistency of a paste,
which is then granulated and dried.
If effervescent caffeine citrate, anti-pyrin, lithium citrate, etc.,
are to be prepared, the powder need not be dried before effecting
the mixture, but if sodium phosphate, sodium sulphate, or magnesium
sulphate are to be granulated, the water of crystallization must first
be removed by drying, otherwise a hard, insoluble and absolutely
non-granulable mass will be obtained. Sodium phosphate must lose 60
per cent of its weight in drying, sodium sulphate 56 per cent, and
magnesium sulphate 23 per cent.
Naturally, water and carbonic acid escape on heating, and the loss
will increase with the rise of temperature. For the production of the
granulation mass it must not exceed 158° F., and for drying the grains
a temperature of 122° F. is sufficient.
The fineness of the mesh should vary according to the necessary
admixture of sugar and the size of the grains.
If the ingredients should have a tendency to cling to the warm bottom,
an effort should be made immediately upon the commencement of the
reaction to cause a new portion of the surface to come in contact with
the hot walls.
When the mass is of the consistency of paste it is pressed through a
wire sieve, paper or a fabric being placed underneath. Afterwards dry
at sufficient heat. For wholesale manufacture, surfaces of large size
are employed, which are heated by steam.
In the production of substances containing alkaloids, antipyrin,
etc., care must be taken that they do not become colored. It is
well, therefore, not to use heat, but to allow the mixture to stand
in a moist condition for 12 hours, adding the medicinal substances
afterwards and kneading the whole in a clay receptacle. After another
12 hours the mass will have become sufficiently paste-like, so that it
can be granulated as above.
According to another much employed method, the mass is crushed with
alcohol, then rubbed through a sieve, and dried rapidly. This process
is somewhat dearer, owing to the great loss of alcohol, but presents
the advantage of furnishing a better product than any other recipe.
Effervescent magnesium citrate cannot be very well made; for this
reason the sulphate was used in lieu of the citrate. A part of the
customary admixture of sulphate is replaced by sugar and aromatized
with lemon or similar substances.
An excellent granulation mass is obtained from the following mixture by
addition of alcohol:
Parts by
weight
Sodium bicarbonate 30
Tartaric acid 15
Citric acid 13
Sugar 30
The total loss of this mass through granulation amounts to from 10 to
15 per cent.
To this mass, medicinal substances, such as antipyrin, caffeine
citrate, lithium citrate, lithium salicylate, phenacetin, piperacin,
ferric carbonate, and pepsin may be added, as desired. {627}
In order to produce a quinine preparation, use tincture of quinine
instead of alcohol for moistening; the quinine tincture is prepared
with alcohol of 96 per cent.
Basis for Effervescent Salts.—
Sodium bicarbonate, dried and powdered 53 parts
Tartaric acid, dried and powdered 28 parts
Citric acid, uneffloresced crystals 18 parts
Powder the citric acid and add the tartaric acid and sodium
bicarbonate. This basis may be mixed with many of the medicaments
commonly used in the form of granular effervescent salts, in the
proportion which will properly represent their doses and such
substances as sodium phosphate, magnesium sulphate, citrated caffeine,
potassium bromide, lithium citrate, potassium citrate, and others,
will produce satisfactory products. A typical formula for effervescent
sodium phosphate would be as follows:
Sodium phosphate, uneffloresced crystals 500 parts
Sodium bicarbonate, dried and powdered 477 parts
Tartaric acid, dried and powdered 252 parts
Citric acid, uneffloresced crystals 162 parts
Dry the sodium phosphate on a water bath until it ceases to lose
weight; after powdering the dried salt, mix it intimately with the
citric acid and tartaric acid, then thoroughly incorporate the sodium
bicarbonate. The mixed powders are now ready for granulation. The
change in manipulation which is suggested to replace that usually
followed, requires either a gas stove or a blue-flame coal-oil stove,
and one of the small tin or sheet-iron ovens which are so largely used
with these stoves. The stove itself will be found in almost every drug
store; the oven costs from $1 to $2.
The oven is heated to about 200° F. (the use of a thermometer is
desirable at first, but one will quickly learn how to regulate the
flame to produce the desired temperature), and the previously mixed
powders are placed on, preferably, a glass plate, which has been heated
with the oven, about 1/2 pound being taken at a time, dependent
upon the size of the oven. The door of the oven is now closed for
about one minute, and, when opened, the whole mass will be found to be
uniformly moist and ready to pass through a suitable sieve, the best
kind and size being a tinned iron, No. 6. This moist, granular powder
may then be placed upon the top of the oven, where the heat is quite
sufficient to thoroughly dry the granules, and the operator may proceed
immediately with the next lot of mixed powder, easily granulating 10 or
more pounds within an hour.
Sugar has often been proposed as an addition to these salts, but
experience has shown that the slight improvement in taste, which is
sometimes questioned, does not offset the likelihood of darkening,
which is apt to occur when the salt is being heated, or the change in
color after it has been made several months. It should be remembered
that in making a granular effervescent salt by the method which depends
upon the liberation of water of crystallization, a loss in weight,
amounting to about 10 per cent, will be experienced. This is due, in
part, to the loss of water which is driven off, and also to a trifling
loss of carbon dioxide when the powder is moistened.
«EFFERVESCENT POWDERS:»
«Magnesian Lemonade Powder.»—
Fine white sugar 2 pounds
Magnesium carbonate 6 ounces
Citric acid 4 ounces
Essence of lemon 2 drachms
Rub the essence into the dry ingredients, work well together, sift, and
bottle.
«Magnesian Orgeat Powder.»—
Fine sugar 1 pound
Carbonate of magnesia 3 ounces
Citric acid 1 ounce
Oil of bitter almonds 3 drops
Vanilla flavoring, quantity sufficient.
Thoroughly amalgamate the dry ingredients. Rub in the oil of almonds
and sufficient essence of vanilla to give a slight flavor. Work all
well together, sift, and bottle.
«Raspberryade Powder.»—
Fine sugar 2 pounds
Carbonate of soda 2 ounces
Tartaric acid 2 ounces
Essence of raspberry 4 drachms
Carmine coloring, quantity sufficient.
Rub the essence well into the sugar, and mix this with the soda and
acid. Then work in sufficient liquid carmine to make the powder pale
red, sift through a fine sieve, and pack in air-tight bottles. {628}
«Ambrosia Powder.»—
Fine sugar 2 pounds
Carbonate of soda 12 drachms
Citric acid 10 drachms
Essence of ambrosia 20 drops
Amalgamate the whole of the above, and afterwards sift and bottle in
the usual manner.
«Noyeau Powder.»—
Fine sugar 2 pounds
Carbonate of soda 12 drachms
Tartaric acid 10 drachms
Essence of Noyeau 6 drops
After the dry ingredients have been mixed, and the essence rubbed into
them, sift and bottle the powder.
«Lemon Sherbet.»—
Fine sugar 9 pounds
Tartaric acid 40 ounces
Carbonate of soda 36 ounces
Oil of lemon 2 drachms
Having thoroughly mixed the dry ingredients, add the lemon, rubbing it
well in between the hands; then sift the whole thrice through a fine
sieve, and cork down tight.
As oil of lemon is used in this recipe, the blending must be quite
perfect, otherwise when the powder is put in water the oil of lemon
will float.
Any other flavoring may be substituted for lemon, and the sherbet named
accordingly.
«Cream Soda Powder.»—
Fine sugar 30 parts
Tartaric acid 7 parts
Carbonate of soda 6 parts
Finely powdered gum arabic 1 part
Vanilla flavoring, quantity sufficient.
Proceed exactly as for lemon sherbet.
«Kissingen Salt.»—
Potassium chloride 17 parts
Sodium chloride 367 parts
Magnesium sulphate (dry) 59 parts
Sodium bicarbonate 107 parts
For the preparation of Kissingen water, dissolve 1.5 grams in 180 grams
of water.
«Vichy Salt.»—
Sodium bicarbonate 846 parts
Potassium carbonate 38 parts
Magnesium sulphate (dry) 38 parts
Sodium chloride 77 parts
For making Vichy water dissolve 1 part in 200 parts of water.
«Seidlitz Salt.»—This is one of the many old names for magnesium
sulphate. It has at various times been known as Seidlitz salt, Egra
salt, canal salt, bitter salt, cathartic salt, English salt, and
Epsom salt. Its earliest source was from the salt springs of Epsom in
England and from this fact it took its last two names. For a long time
sea-salt makers supplied the markets of the world. They procured it
as a by-product in the making of salt. The bitter water that remained
after the table salt had been crystallized out was found to contain it.
Now it is chiefly procured from such minerals as dolomite, siliceous
magnesium hydrate, and schistose rock containing the sulphide of
magnesia. Many medical men deem it our best saline cathartic.
«SALTS, SMELLING.»
I.—Moisten coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate with a mixture of
Strong tincture of orris root 2 1/2 ounces
Extract of violet 3 drachms
Spirit of ammonia 1 drachm
II.—Fill suitable bottles with coarsely powdered ammonium carbonate,
and add to the salt as much of the following solution as it will absorb:
Oil of orris 5 minims
Oil of lavender flowers 10 minims
Extract of violet 30 minims
Stronger water of ammonia 2 ounces
SALVES: See Ointments.
«SAND:»
«Colored Sand.»—Sift fine white sand from the coarser particles and
color it as follows:
I.—Blue.—Boil 106 parts of sand and 4 of Berlin blue with a small
quantity of water, stirring constantly, and dry as soon as the sand is
thoroughly colored.
II.—Black Sand.—Heat very fine quartz sand, previously freed from dust
by sifting, and add to every 1/4 pound of it 6 to 8 spoonfuls of
fat. Continue the heating as long as smoke or a flame is observed on
stirring. The sand is finally washed and dried. This black sand will
not rub off.
III.—Dark-Brown Sand.—Boil white sand in a decoction of brazil wood and
dry it over a fire.
IV.—Rose-colored sand is obtained by mixing 100 parts of white sand
with 4 parts of vermilion. {629}
«Lawn Sand.»—Lawn sand may be prepared by mixing crude ammonium
sulphate, 65 parts, with fine sand, 35 parts. This mixture will kill
daisies and plantains, but does not permanently injure the grass of
lawns. A most effective method of killing plantains is to put, during
dry weather, a full teaspoonful of common salt in the head of each.
SAND HOLES IN BRASS: See Castings.
SAND SOAP: See Soap.
SANDSTONE CEMENTS: See Adhesives.
SANDSTONE COATING: See Acid-Proofing.
SANDSTONES, TO REMOVE OIL SPOTS FROM: See Cleaning Preparations and
Methods.
SAND, TO PREVENT ADHESION OF SAND TO CASTINGS: See Castings.
«SARSAPARILLA.»
Each fluidounce of Ayer’s sarsaparilla represents
Sarsaparilla root 10 parts
Yellow dock root 8 parts
Licorice root 8 parts
Buckthorn bark 4 parts
Burdock root 3 parts
Senna leaves 2 parts
Black cohosh root 2 parts
Stillingia root 4 parts
Poke root 1 part
Cinchona red bark 2 parts
Potassium iodide 4 parts
Solvent.—Alcohol, 10 1/2 minims to each fluidrachm; glycerin, syrup,
water.
This is the formula as given by Dr. Charles H. Stowell, of the Ayer
Company, to the daily papers, for advertising purposes.
Sarsaparilla Flavoring.—
Oil wintergreen 6 parts
Oil sassafras 2 parts
Oil cassia 1 1/2 parts
Oil clove 1 1/2 parts
Oil anise 1 1/2 parts
Alcohol 60 parts
Sarsaparilla Syrup.—
Simple syrup 40 ounces
Sarsaparilla flavoring 1 drachm
Caramel to color.
SARSAPARILLA EXTRACT: See Essences and Extracts.
SAUCES, TABLE: See Condiments.
SATINWOOD: See Wood.
SAUSAGE COLOR: See Foods.
SAWDUST IN BRAN: See Bran.
SAWDUST FOR JEWELERS AND WATCHMAKERS: See Watchmakers’ Formulas.
SCALD HEAD, SOAP FOR: See Soap.
SCALD REMEDIES: See Cosmetics.
SCALE FOR PHOTOGRAPHIC REDUCTION: See Photography.
SCALE PAN CLEANER: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
SCALE IN BOILERS: See Boiler Compounds.
SCALE INSECTS, EXTERMINATION OF: See Insecticides.
SCALP WASHES: See Hair Preparations.
SCISSORS HARDENING: See Steel.
SCOURING LIQUIDS: See Laundry Preparations.