Quinine sulphate 2 parts
Tincture of krameria 4 parts
Tincture of cantharides 2 parts
Spirit of lavender 10 parts
Glycerine 15 parts
Alcohol 100 parts
«SHAMPOOS:»
A Hair Shampoo is usually a tincture of odorless soft soap. It is
mostly perfumed with lavender and colored with green aniline. Prepared
the same as tr. sapon. virid. (U. S. P.), using an inexpensive soft
soap, that is a good foam producer. Directions: Wet the hair well in
warm water and rub in a few teaspoonfuls of the following formulas. No.
I is considered the best: {393}
I II III IV
Parts used
Cottonseed oil — 24 26 14
Linseed oil 20 — — —
Malaga olive oil 20 — — —
Caustic potash 9 1/2 8 6 3
Alcohol 5 4 1/2 5 2
Water 30 26 34 16 1/2
Warm the mixed oils on a large water bath, then the potash and water
in another vessel, heating both to 158° F., and adding the latter hot
solution to the hot oil while stirring briskly. Now add and thoroughly
mix the alcohol. Stop stirring, keeping the heat at 158° F., until the
mass becomes clear and a small quantity dissolves in boiling water
without globules of oil separating. If stirred after the alcohol has
been mixed the soap will be opaque. Set aside for a few days in a warm
place before using to make liquid shampoo.
Liquid Shampoos.—
I.—Fluid extract of soap-bark 10 parts
Glycerine 5 parts
Cologne water 10 parts
Alcohol 20 parts
Rose water 30 parts
II.—Soft soap 24 parts
Potassium carbonate 5 parts
Alcohol 48 parts
Water enough to make 400 parts
Shampoo Pastes.—
I.—White castile soap, in shavings 2 ounces
Ammonia water 2 fluidounces
Bay rum, or cologne water 1 fluidounce
Glycerine 1 fluidounce
Water 12 fluidounces
Dissolve the soap in the water by means of heat; when nearly cold stir
in the other ingredients.
II.—Castile soap, white 4 ounces
Potassium carbonate 1 ounce
Water 6 fluidounces
Glycerine 2 fluidounces
Oil of lavender flowers 5 drops
Oil of bergamot 10 drops
To the water add the soap, in shavings, and the potassium carbonate,
and heat on a water bath until thoroughly softened; add the glycerine
and oils. If necessary to reduce to proper consistency, more water may
be added.
Egg Shampoo.—
Whites of 2 eggs
Water 5 fluidounces
Water of ammonia 3 fluidounces
Cologne water 1/3 fluidounce
Alcohol 4 fluidounces
Beat the egg whites to a froth, and add the other ingredients in the
order in which they are named, with a thorough mixing after each
addition.
Imitation Egg Shampoos.—Many of the egg shampoos are so called
from their appearance. They usually contain no egg and are merely
preparations of perfumed soft soap. Here are some formulas:
I.—White castile soap 4 ounces
Powdered curd soap 2 ounces
Potassium carbonate 1 ounce
Honey 1 ounce
Make a homogeneous paste by heating with water.
II.—Melt 3 1/2 pounds of lard over a salt-water bath and run into it
a lye formed by dissolving 8 ounces of caustic potassa in 1 1/2 pints
of water. Stir well until saponification is effected and perfume as
desired.
HAIR REMOVERS: See Depilatories.
HAMBURG BITTERS: See Wines and Liquors.
HAMMER HARDENING: See Steel.
HAND CREAMS: See Cosmetics.
HANDS, TO REMOVE STAINS FROM THE: See Cleaning Preparations.
HARE-LIP OPERATION, ANTISEPTIC PASTE FOR: See Antiseptics.
HARNESS DRESSINGS AND PREPARATIONS: See Leather Dressings.
HARNESS WAX: See Waxes.
HAT-CLEANING COMPOUNDS: See Cleaning Compounds.
HAT WATERPROOFING: See Waterproofing. {394}
«HATS:»
«Dyeing Straw Hats.»—The plan generally followed is that of coating the
hats with a solution of varnish in which a suitable aniline dye has
dissolved. The following preparations are in use:
I.—For dark varnishes prepare a basis consisting of orange shellac,
900 parts; sandarac, 225 parts; Manila copal, 225 parts; castor oil,
55 parts; and wood-spirit, 9,000 parts. To color, add to the foregoing
amount alcohol-soluble, coal-tar dyes as follows: Black, 55 parts
of soluble ivory-black (modified by blue or green). Olive-brown, 15
parts of brilliant-green, 55 parts of Bismarck brown R, 8 parts of
spirit blue. Olive-green, 28 parts of brilliant-green, 28 parts of
Bismarck-brown R. Walnut, 55 parts of Bismarck-brown R, 15 parts of
nigrosin. Mahogany, 28 parts of Bismarck-brown R, which may be deepened
by a little nigrosin.
II.—For light colors prepare a varnish as follows: Sandarac, 1,350
parts; elemi, 450 parts; rosin, 450 parts; castor oil, 110 parts;
wood-spirit, 9,000 parts. For this amount use dyes as follows: Gold,
55 parts of chrysoidin, 55 parts of aniline-yellow. Light green, 55
parts of brilliant-green, 7 parts of aniline-yellow. Blue, 55 parts of
spirit blue. Deep blue, 55 parts of spirit blue, 55 parts of indulin.
Violet, 28 parts of methyl-violet, 3 B. Crimson, 55 parts of safranin.
Chestnut, 55 parts of safranin, 15 parts of indulin.
III.—Shellac 4 ounces
Sandarac 1 ounce
Gum thus 1 ounce
Methyl spirit 1 pint
In this dissolve aniline dyes of the requisite color, and apply. For
white straw, white shellac must be used.
«To Extract Shellac from Fur Hats.»—
Use the common solvents, as carbon bisulphide, benzine, wood alcohol,
turpentine, and so forth, reclaiming the spirit and shellac by a
suitable still.
«HEADACHE REMEDIES:»
See also Pain Killers.
«Headache Cologne.»—As a mitigant of headache, cologne water of the
farina type is refreshing.
Oil of neroli 6 drachms
Oil of rosemary 3 drachms
Oil of bergamot 3 drachms
Oil of cedrat 7 drachms
Oil of orange peel 7 drachms
Deodorized alcohol 1 gallon
To secure a satisfactory product from the foregoing formula it is
necessary to look carefully to the quality of the oils. Oil of
cedrat is prone to change, and oil of orange peel, if exposed to the
atmosphere for a short time, becomes worthless, and will spoil the
other materials.
A delightful combination of the acetic odor with that of cologne water
may be had by adding to a pint of the foregoing, 2 drachms of glacial
acetic acid. The odor so produced may be more grateful to some invalids
than the neroli and lemon bouquet.
Still another striking variation of the cologne odor, suitable for the
use indicated, may be made by adding to a pint of cologne water an
ounce of ammoniated alcohol.
«Liquid Headache Remedies.»—
Acetanilid 60 grains
Alcohol 4 fluidrachms
Ammonium carbonate 30 grains
Water 2 fluidrachms
Simple elixir to make 2 fluidounces
Dissolve the acetanilid in the alcohol, the ammonium carbonate in the
water, mix each solution with a portion of the simple elixir, and mix
the whole together.
HEAT-INDICATING PAINT: See Paint.
HEAT INSULATION: See Insulation.
HEAT, PRICKLY: See Household Formulas.
HEAT-RESISTANT LACQUERS: See Lacquers.
HEAVES: See Veterinary Formulas.
«HEDGE MUSTARD.»
Hedge mustard (erysimum) was at one time a popular remedy in France for
hoarseness, and is still used in country districts, but is not often
prescribed.
Liquid ammonia 10 drops
Syrup of erysimum 1 1/2 ounces
Infusion of lime flowers 3 ounces
To be taken at one dose.
«HERBARIUM SPECIMENS, MOUNTING.»
A matter of first importance, after drying the herbarium specimens,
is to poison them, to prevent the attacks of insects. This is done
by brushing them over on both sides, using a camel’s-hair pencil,
with a solution of 2 grains of {395} corrosive sublimate to an ounce
of methylated spirit. In tropical climates the solution is generally
used of twice this strength. There are several methods of mounting
them. Leaves with a waxy surface and coriaceous texture are best
stitched through the middle after they have been fastened on with
an adhesive mixture. Twigs of leguminous trees will often throw off
their leaflets in drying. This may, in some measure, be prevented by
dipping them in boiling water before drying, or if the leaves are not
very rigid, by using strong pressure at first, without the use of
hot water. If the specimens have to be frequently handled, the most
satisfactory preparation is Lepage’s fish glue, but a mixture of glue
and paste, with carbolic acid added, is used in some large herbaria.
The disadvantage of using glue, gum, or paste is that it is necessary
to have some of the leaves turned over so as to show the under surface
of the leaf, and some of the flowers and seeds placed loose in
envelopes on the same sheet for purposes of comparison or microscopic
examination. Another plan is to use narrow slips of gummed stiff
but thin paper, such as very thin parchment paper. These strips are
either gummed over the stems, etc., and pinched in round the stem with
forceps, or passed through slits made in the sheet and fastened at
the back. If the specimens are mounted on cards and protected in glass
frames, stitching in the principal parts with gray thread produces a
very satisfactory appearance.
«Hectograph Pads and Inks»
The hectograph is a gelatin pad used for duplicating letters, etc., by
transfer. The pad should have a tough elastic consistency, similar to
that of a printer’s roller. The letter or sketch to be duplicated is
written or traced on a sheet of heavy paper with an aniline ink (which
has great tinctorial qualities). When dry this is laid, inked side
down, on the pad and subjected to moderate and uniform pressure for a
few minutes. It may then be removed, when a copy of the original will
be found on the pad which has absorbed a large quantity of the ink.
The blank sheets are laid one by one on the pad, subjected to moderate
pressure over the whole surface with a wooden or rubber roller, or with
the hand, and lifted off by taking hold of the corners and stripping
them gently with an even movement. If this is done too quickly the
composition may be torn. Each succeeding copy thus made will be a
little fainter than its predecessor. From 40 to 60 legible copies may
be made. When the operation is finished the surface of the pad should
be gone over gently with a wet sponge and the remaining ink soaked out.
The superfluous moisture is then carefully wiped off, when the pad will
be ready for another operation.
The pad or hectograph is essentially a mixture of glue (gelatin) and
glycerine. This mixture has the property of remaining soft yet firm
for a long time and of absorbing and holding certain coloring matters
in such a way as to give them up slowly or in layers, so to speak, on
pressure.
Such a pad may be made by melting together 1 part of glue, 2 parts of
water and 4 parts of glycerine (all by weight, of course), evaporating
some of the water and tempering the mixture with more glue or glycerine
if the season or climate require. The mass when of proper consistency,
which can be ascertained by cooling a small portion, is poured into a
shallow pan and allowed to set. Clean glue must be used or the mixture
strained; and air bubbles should be removed by skimming the surface
with a piece of card-board or similar appliance.
Variations of this formula have been proposed, some of which are
appended:
I.—Glycerine 12 ounces
Gelatin 2 ounces
Water 7 1/2 ounces
Sugar 2 ounces
II.—Water 10 ounces
Dextrin 1 1/2 ounces
Sugar 2 ounces
Gelatin 15 ounces
Glycerine 15 ounces
Zinc oxide 1 1/2 ounces
III.—Gelatin 10 ounces
Water 40 ounces
Glycerine 120 ounces
Barium sulphate 8 ounces
The Tokacs patent composition, besides the usual ingredients, such as
gelatin, glycerine, sugar, and gum, contains soap, and can therefore be
washed off much easier for new use. The smoothness of the surface is
also increased, without showing more sticking capacity with the first
impressions.
«Hectograph Inks» (see also Inks).—The writing to be copied by means of
the hectograph is done on good paper with an aniline ink. Formulas for
suitable ones are appended. It is said that more copies can be obtained
from writing with the purple ink than with other kinds: {396}
Purple.—
I.—Methyl violet 2 parts
Alcohol 2 parts
Sugar 1 part
Glycerine 4 parts
Water 24 parts
Dissolve the violet in the alcohol mixed with the glycerine; dissolve
the sugar in the water; mix both solutions.
II.—A good purple hectograph ink is made as follows: Dissolve 1 part
methyl violet in 8 parts of water and add 1 part of glycerine. Gently
warm the solution for an hour, and add, when cool, 1/4 part alcohol.
Or take methyl violet, 1 part; water, 7 parts; and glycerine, 2 parts.
Black.—
Methyl violet 10 parts
Nigrosin 20 parts
Glycerine 30 parts
Gum arabic 5 parts
Alcohol 60 parts
Blue.—
Resorcin blue M 10 parts
Dilute acetic acid 1 part
Water 85 parts
Glycerine 4 parts
Alcohol 10 parts
Dissolve by heat.
Red.—
Fuchsin 10 parts
Alcohol 10 parts
Glycerine 10 parts
Water 50 parts
Green.—
Aniline green, water soluble 15 parts
Glycerine 10 parts
Water 50 parts
Alcohol 10 parts
«Repairing Hectographs.»—Instead of remelting the hectograph
composition, which is not always successful, it is recommended to pour
alcohol over the surface of the cleaned mass and to light it. After
solidifying, the surface will be again ready for use.
HEMORRHOIDS: See Piles.
HERB VINEGAR: See Vinegar.
HIDES: See Leather.
HIDE BOUND: See Veterinary Formulas.
HIDE-CLEANING PROCESSES: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
HOARHOUND CANDY: See Confectionery.
HOARSENESS, CREAM BON-BONS FOR: See Confectionery.
HOARSENESS, REMEDY FOR: See Cough and Cold Mixtures and Turpentine.
«HONEY:»
«Honey Clarifier.»—For 3,000 parts of fresh honey, take 875 parts of
water, 150 parts of washed, dried, and pulverized charcoal, 70 parts
of powdered chalk, and the whites of 3 eggs beaten in 90 parts of
water. Put the honey and the chalk in a vessel capable of containing
1/3 more than the mixture and boil for 3 minutes; then introduce
the charcoal and stir up the whole. Add the whites of the eggs while
continuing to stir, and boil again for 3 minutes. Take from the fire,
and after allowing the liquid to cool for a quarter of an hour, filter,
and to secure a perfectly clear liquid refilter on flannel.
«Detecting Dyed Honey.»—For the detection of artificial yellow dyestuff
in honey, treat the aqueous yellow solution with hydrochloric acid,
as well as with ammonia; also extract the dyestuff from the acid
or ammoniacal solution by solvents, such as alcohol or ether, or
conduct the Arata wool test in the following manner: Dissolve 10 parts
of honey in 50 parts of water, mix with 10 parts of a 10 per cent
potassium-bisulphate solution and boil the woolen thread in this liquid
for 10 minutes.
HONEY WINE: See Mead.
HONING: See Whetstones.
HOOF SORES: See Veterinary Formulas.
HOP BITTER BEER: See Beverages.
HOP SYRUP: See Essences and Extracts.
«HORN:»
«Artificial Horn.»—To prepare artificial horn from compounds of
nitro-cellulose and casein, by hardening them and removing their odor
of camphor, the compounds are steeped in formaldehyde from several
hours to as many days, {397} according to the thickness of the object
treated. When the formaldehyde has penetrated through the mass and
dissolved the camphor, the object is taken out of the liquid and dried.
Both the camphor extracted and the formaldehyde used can be recovered
by distillation, and used over again, thus cheapening the operation.
«Dehorners or Horn Destroyers.»—The following are recommended by the
Board of Agriculture of Great Britain:
Clip the hair from the top of the horn when the calf is from 2 to 5
days old. Slightly moisten the end of a stick of caustic potash with
water or saliva (or moisten the top of the horn bud) and rub the tip
of each horn firmly with the potash for about a quarter of a minute,
or until a slight impression has been made on the center of the horn.
The horns should be treated in this way from 2 to 4 times at intervals
of 5 minutes. If, during the interval of 5 minutes after one or more
applications, a little blood appears in the center of the horn, it will
then only be necessary to give another very slight rubbing with the
potash.
The following directions should be carefully observed: The operation
is best performed when the calf is under 5 days old, and should not
be attempted after the ninth day. When not in use the caustic potash
should be kept in a stoppered glass bottle in a dry place, as it
rapidly deteriorates when exposed to the air. One man should hold the
calf while an assistant uses the caustic. Roll a piece of tin foil or
brown paper round the end of the stick of caustic potash, which is
held by the fingers, so as not to injure the hand of the operator. Do
not moisten the stick too much, or the caustic may spread to the skin
around the horn and destroy the flesh. For the same reason keep the
calf from getting wet for some days after the operation. Be careful to
rub on the center of the horn and not around the side of it.
«Staining Horns.»—A brown stain is given to horns by covering them
first with an aqueous solution of potassium ferrocyanide, drying them,
and then treating with a hot dilute solution of copper sulphate. A
black stain can be produced in the following manner:
After having finely sandpapered the horns, dissolve 50 to 60 grains of
nitrate of silver in 1 ounce of distilled water. It will be colorless.
Dip a small brush in, and paint the horns where they are to be black.
When dry, put them where the sun can shine on them, and you will find
that they will turn jet black, and may then be polished.
«To Soften Horn.»—Lay the horn for 10 days in a solution of water, 1
part; nitric acid, 3 parts; wood vinegar, 2 parts; tannin, 5 parts;
tartar, 2 parts; and zinc vitriol, 2.5 parts.
HORN BLEACHES: See Bone and Ivory.
HORN, UNITING GLASS WITH: See Adhesives.
HORSES, THE TREATMENT OF THEIR DISEASES: See Veterinary Formulas.
«Household Formulas»
«How to Lay Galvanized Iron Roofing.»—The use of galvanized iron for
general roofing work has increased greatly during the past few years.
It has many features which commend it as a roofing material, but
difficulties have been experienced by beginners as to the proper method
of applying it to the roof. The weight of material used is rather heavy
to permit of double seaming, but a method has been evolved that is
satisfactory. Galvanized iron roofing can be put on at low cost, so as
to be water-tight and free from buckling at the joints. The method
does away with double seaming, and is considered more suitable than the
latter for roofing purposes wherever it can be laid on a roof steeper
than 1 to 12.
[Illustration: FIG. 1]
[Illustration: FIG. 2]
[Illustration: FIG. 3]
[Illustration: FIG. 4]
[Illustration: FIG. 5]
[Illustration: FIG. 6]
Galvanized iron of No. 28 and heavier gauges is used, the sheets being
lap-seamed and soldered together in strips in the shop the proper
length to apply to the roof. After the sheets are fastened together a
1 1/4-inch edge is turned up the entire length of one side of the
sheet, as indicated in Fig. 1. This operation is done with tongs having
gauge pins set at the proper point. The second {398} operation consists
in turning a strip 1/4 inch wide toward the sheet, as shown in Fig.
2. This sheet is then laid on the roof, and a cleat about 8 inches long
and 1 inch wide, made of galvanized iron, is nailed to the roof close
to the sheet and bent over it, as shown in Fig. 3.
A second sheet having 1 1/2 inches turned up is now brought against
the first sheet and bent over both sheet and cleat, as shown in Fig. 4.
The cleat is then bent backward over the second sheet and cut off close
to the roof, as in Fig. 5, after which the seams are drawn together by
double seaming tools, as the occasion demands, and slightly hammered
with a wooden mallet. The finished seam is shown in Fig. 6. It will be
seen that the second sheet of galvanized iron, cut 1/4 inch longer
than the first, laps over the former, making a sort of bead which
prevents water from driving in. Cleats hold both sheets firmly to the
roof and are nailed about 12 inches apart. Roofs of this character,
when laid with No. 28 gauge iron, cost very little more than the
cheaper grades of tin, and do not have to be painted.
«Applications for Prickly Heat.»—Many applications for this extremely
annoying form of urticaria have been suggested and their efficacy
strongly urged by the various correspondents of the medical press
who propose them, but none of them seem to be generally efficacious.
Thus, sodium bicarbonate in strong, aqueous solution, has long been
a domestic remedy in general use, but it fails probably as often as
it succeeds. A weak solution of copper sulphate has also been highly
extolled, only to disappoint a very large proportion of those who
resort to it. And so we might go on citing remedies which may sometimes
give relief, but fail in the large proportion of cases. In this
trouble, as in almost every other, the idiosyncrasies of the patient
play a great part in the effects produced by any remedy. It is caused,
primarily by congestion of the capillary vessels of the skin, and
anything that tends to relieve this congestion will give relief, at
least temporarily. Among the newer suggestions are the following:
Alcohol 333 parts
Ether 333 parts
Chloroform 333 parts
Menthol 1 part
Mix. Directions: Apply occasionally with a sponge.
Among those things which at least assist one in bearing the affliction
is frequent change of underwear. The undergarments worn during the day
should never be worn at night. Scratching or rubbing should be avoided
where possible. Avoid stimulating food and drinks, especially alcohol,
and by all means keep the bowels in a soluble condition.
«Cleaning and Polishing Linoleum.»—Wash the linoleum with a mixture
of equal parts of milk and water, wipe dry, and rub in the following
mixture by means of a cloth rag: Yellow wax, 5 parts; turpentine oil,
11 parts; varnish, 5 parts. As a glazing agent, a solution of a little
yellow wax in turpentine oil is also recommended. Other polishing
agents are:
I.—Palm oil, 1 part; paraffine, 18; kerosene, 4.
II.—Yellow wax, 1 part; carnauba wax, 2; turpentine oil, 10; benzine, 5.
«Lavatory Deodorant.»—
Sodium bicarbonate 5 ounces
Alum 5 1/2 ounces
Potassium bromide 4 ounces
Hydrochloric acid enough
Water enough to make 4 pints.
To 3 parts of boiling water add the alum and then the bicarbonate.
Introduce enough hydrochloric acid to dissolve the precipitate of
aluminum hydrate which forms and then add the potassium bromide. Add
enough water to bring the measure of the finished product up to 4 pints.
«Removal of Odors from Wooden Boxes, Chests, Drawers, etc.»—This is
done by varnishing them with a solution of shellac, after the following
manner: Make a solution of shellac, 1,000 parts; alcohol, 90 per cent
to 95 per cent, 1,000 parts; boric acid, 50 parts; castor oil, 50
parts. The shellac is first dissolved in the alcohol and the acid and
oil added afterwards. For the first coating use 1 part of the solution
cut with from 1 to 2 parts of alcohol, according to the porosity of
the wood—the more porous the less necessity for cutting. When the
first coat is absorbed and dried in, repeat the application, if the
wood is very porous, with the diluted shellac, but if of hard, dense
wood, the final coating may be now put on, using the solution without
addition of alcohol. If desired, the solution may be colored with any
of the alcohol soluble aniline colors. The shellac solution, by the
way, may be applied to the outside of chests, etc., and finished off
after the fashion of “French polish.” {399} When used this way, a prior
application of 2 coats of linseed oil is advisable.
«Stencil Marking Ink that will Wash Out.»—Triturate together 1 part of
fine soot and 2 parts of Prussian blue, with a little glycerine; then
add 3 parts of gum arabic and enough glycerine to form a thin paste.
«Washing Fluid.»—Take 1 pound sal soda, 1/2 pound good stone lime,
and 5 quarts of water; boil a short time, let it settle, and pour off
the clear fluid into a stone jug, and cork for use; soak the white
clothes overnight in simple water, wring out and soap wristbands,
collars, and dirty or stained places. Have the boiler half filled with
water just beginning to boil, then put in 1 common teacupful of fluid,
stir and put in your clothes, and boil for half an hour, then rub
lightly through one suds only, and all is complete.