It does not affect the metal of the engine, as many other salts would,
and is easily renewed. It will remain fluid down to 0° F., or a little
below.
Equal parts of glycerine and water is also good, and has the advantage
that it will not crystallize in the chambers, or evaporate readily.
It is the most convenient solution to use on this account, and may
repay the increased cost over brine, in the comfort of its use. It
needs only the occasional addition of a little water to make it last
all winter and leave the machinery clean when it is drawn off. With
brine an incrustation of salt as the water evaporates is bound to occur
which reduces the efficiency of the solution until it is removed. Water
frequently must be added to keep the original volume, and to hold the
salt in solution. A solution of calcium chloride is less troublesome so
far as crystallizing is concerned, but is said to have a tendency to
corrode the metals.
«Anti-Freezing Solution for Automobilists.»—Mix and filter 4 1/2
pounds pure calcium chloride and a gallon of warm water and put the
solution in the radiator or tank. Replace evaporation with clean water,
and leakage with solution. Pure calcium chloride retails at about 8
cents per pound, or can be procured from any wholesale drug store at 5
cents.
«Anti-Freezing, Non-Corrosive Solution.»—A solution for water-jackets
on gas engines that will not freeze at any temperature above 20° below
zero (F.) may be made by combining 100 parts of water, by weight, with
75 parts of carbonate potash and 50 parts of glycerine. This solution
is non-corrosive and will remain perfectly liquid at all temperatures
above its congealing point.
«Anti-Frost Solution.»—As an excellent remedy against the freezing of
shop windows, apply a mixture consisting of 55 parts of glycerine
dissolved in 1,000 parts of 62 per cent alcohol, containing, to improve
the odor, some oil of amber. As soon as the mixture clarifies, it is
rubbed over the inner surface of the glass. This treatment, it is
claimed, not only prevents the formation of frost, but also stops
sweating.
«Protection of Acetylene Apparatus from Frost.»—Alcohol, glycerine, and
calcium chloride have been recommended for the protection of acetylene
generators from frost. The employment of calcium chloride, which must
not be confounded with chloride of lime, appears preferable in all
points of view. A solution of 20 parts of calcium chloride in 80 parts
of water congeals only at 5° F. above zero. But as this temperature
does not generally penetrate the generators, it will answer to use 10
or 15 parts of the chloride for 100 parts of water, which will almost
always be sufficient to avoid congelation. Care must be taken not to
use sea salt or other alkaline or metallic salts, which deteriorate the
metal of the apparatus.
«FROST BITE.»
When the skin is as yet unbroken, Hugo Kuhl advises the following: {364}
I.—Carbolized water 4 drachms
Nitric acid 1 drop
Oil of geranium 1 drop
Mix. Pencil over the skin and then hold the penciled place near the
fire until the skin is quite dry.
If the skin is already broken, use the following ointment:
II.—Hebra’s ointment 500 parts
Glycerine 100 parts
Liquefied carbolic acid 15 parts
Mix. Apply to the broken skin occasionally.
III.—Camphor 25 parts
Iodine, pure 50 parts
Olive oil 500 parts
Paraffine, solid 450 parts
Alcohol, enough.
Dissolve the camphor in the oil and the iodine in the least possible
amount of alcohol. Melt the paraffine and add the mixed solutions.
When homogeneous pour into suitable molds. Wrap the pencils in
paraffine paper or tin foil, and pack in wooden boxes. By using more or
less olive oil the pencils may be made of any desired consistency.
IV.—Dissolve 5 parts of camphor in a mixture consisting of 5 parts of
ether and 5 parts of alcohol; then add collodion sufficient to make 100
parts.
V.—Dissolve 1 part of thymol in 5 parts of a mixture of ether and
alcohol, then add collodion sufficient to make 100 parts.
VI.—Carbolic acid 2 parts
Lead ointment 40 parts
Lanolin 40 parts
Olive oil 20 parts
Lavender oil 1 1/2 parts
VII.—Tannic acid 15 parts
Lycopodium 15 parts
Lard 30 parts
VIII.—Zinc oxide 15 parts
Glycerine 45 parts
Lanolin 40 parts
IX.—Ichthyol 10 parts
Resorcin 10 parts
Tannic acid 10 parts
Distilled water 50 parts
Any of these is to be applied about twice a day.
FROSTED GLASS: See Glass.
FROST PREVENTIVE: See Freezing Preventives.
FROST REMOVERS: See Glass.
FRUIT ESSENCES AND EXTRACTS: See Essences and Extracts.
«Fruit Preserving»
(See also Essences, Extracts, and Preserves.)
«How to Keep Fruit.»—According to experiments of Max de Nansouty,
fruit carefully wrapped in silk paper and then buried in dry sand
will preserve a fresh appearance with a fresh odor or flavor, almost
indefinitely. It may also be preserved in dry excelsior, but not nearly
so well. In stubble or straw fruit rots very quickly, while in shavings
it mildews quickly. In short, wheat-straw fruit often takes on a musty
taste and odor, even when perfectly dry. Finally, when placed on wooden
tablets and exposed to the air, most fruit decays rapidly.
I.—Crushed Strawberry.—Put up by the following process, the fruit
retains its natural color and taste, and may be exposed to the air for
months, without fermenting:
Take fresh, ripe berries, stem them, and rub through a No. 8 sieve,
rejecting all soft and green fruit. Add to each gallon of pulp thus
obtained, 8 pounds of granulated sugar. Put on the fire and bring just
to a boil, stirring constantly. Just before removing from the fire, add
to each gallon 1 ounce of a saturated alcoholic solution of salicylic
acid, stirring well. Remove the scum, and, while still hot, put into
jars, and hermetically seal. Put the jars in cold water, and raise them
to the boiling point, to prevent them from bursting by sudden expansion
on pouring hot fruit into them. Fill the jars entirely full, so as to
leave no air space when fruit cools and contracts.
II.—Crushed Raspberry.—Prepare in the same manner as for crushed
strawberry, using 1/2 red raspberries and 1/2 black, to give a nice
color, and using 7 pounds of sugar to each gallon of pulp.
III.—Crushed Pineapple.—Secure a good brand of canned grated pineapple,
and drain off about one-half of the liquor, by placing on a strainer.
Add to each pound of pineapple 1 pound of granulated sugar. Place on
the fire, and bring to boiling point, stirring constantly. Just before
removing from the fire, add to each gallon of pulp 1 ounce saturated
alcoholic solution of salicylic acid. {365} Put into air-tight jars
until wanted for use.
IV.—Crushed Peach.—Take a good brand of canned yellow peaches, drain
off liquor, and rub through a No. 8 sieve. Add sugar, bring to the
boiling point, and when ready to remove from fire add to each gallon 1
ounce saturated alcoholic solution of salicylic acid. Put into jars and
seal hermetically.
V.—Crushed Apricot.—Prepared in similar manner to crushed peach, using
canned apricots.
VI.—Crushed Orange.—Secure oranges with a thin peel, and containing
plenty of juice. Remove the outer, or yellow peel, first, taking care
not to include any of the bitter peel. (The outer peel may be used in
making orange phosphate, or tincture of sweet orange peel.) Next remove
the inner, bitter peel, quarter, and remove the seeds. Extract part of
the juice, and grind the pulp through an ordinary meat grinder. Add
sugar, place on the fire, and bring to the boiling point. When ready to
remove, add to each gallon 1 ounce of saturated alcoholic solution of
salicylic acid and 1 ounce of glycerine. Put into air-tight jars.
VII.—Crushed Cherries.—Stone the cherries and grind them to a pulp.
Add sugar, and place on the fire, stirring constantly. Before removing,
add to each gallon 1 ounce of the saturated solution of salicylic acid.
Put into jars and seal.
VIII.—Fresh Crushed Fruits in Season.—In their various seasons berries
and fruits may be prepared in fresh lots for the soda fountain each
morning, by reducing the fruit to a pulp, and mixing this pulp with an
equal quantity of heavy simple syrup.
Berries should be rubbed through a sieve. In selecting berries, it is
better to use the medium-sized berries for the pulp, reserving the
extra large specimens for garnishing and decorative effects.
Mash the berries with a wooden masher, never using iron or copper
utensils, which may discolor the fruit.
Pineapple may be prepared by removing the rough outer skin and grating
the pulp upon an ordinary tin kitchen grater. The grater should be
scrupulously clean, and care should be taken not to grate off any of
the coarse, fibrous matter comprising the fruit’s core.
All crushed fruits are served as follows: Mix equal quantities of pulp
and simple syrup in the counter bowl; use 1 1/2 to 2 ounces to each
glass, adding the usual quantity of cream, or ice cream. Draw soda,
using a fine stream freely.
IX.—Glacés.—Crushed fruits, served in the following manner, make a
delicious and refreshing drink:
Crushed fruit 12 drachms
Juice of half a lemon.
Shaved ice.
Put the ice into a small glass, add the fruit and lemon juice, stir
well, and serve with a spoon and straws.
FRUIT PRODUCTS, TESTS FOR: See Foods.
FRUIT SYRUPS: See Syrups.
FRUIT VINEGAR: See Vinegar.
«Fumigants»
(See also Disinfectants.)
«Fumigating Candles.»—I.—Lime wood charcoal, 6,000 parts, by weight,
saturated with water (containing saltpeter, 150 parts, by weight, in
solution), and dried again, is mixed with benzoin, 750 parts, by
weight; styrax, 700 parts, by weight; mastic, 100 parts, by weight;
cascarilla, 450 parts, by weight; Peruvian balsam, 40 parts, by weight;
Mitcham oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, and bergamot oil, 15 parts, by
weight, each; and neroli oil, 3 parts, by weight.
II.—Charcoal, 7,500 parts, by weight; saltpeter, 150 parts, by weight;
Tolu balsam, 500 parts, by weight; musk, 2 parts, by weight; rose oil,
1 part. The mixtures are crushed with thick tragacanth to a solid mass.
III.—Sandal wood, 48 parts, by weight; clove, 6 parts, by weight;
benzoin, 6 parts, by weight; licorice juice, 4 parts, by weight; potash
saltpeter, 2 parts, by weight; cascarilla bark, 1.5 parts, by weight;
cinnamon bark, 1.5 parts, by weight; musk, 0.05 parts, by weight. All
these substances are powdered and mixed, whereupon the following are
added: Styrax (liquid), 5 parts, by weight; cinnamon oil, 0.05 parts,
by weight; clove oil, 0.05 parts, by weight; geranium oil, 0.5 parts,
by weight; lavender oil, 0.2 parts, by weight; Peruvian balsam, 0.2
parts, by weight. The solid ingredients are each powdered separately,
then placed in the respective proportion in a {366} spacious porcelain
dish and intimately mixed by means of a flat spatula. The dish must be
covered up with a cloth in this operation. After the mixture has been
accomplished, add the essential oils and just enough solution of gum
arabic so that by subsequent kneading with the pestle a moldable dough
results which possesses sufficient solidity after drying. The mass is
pressed into metallic molds in the shape of cones not more than 3/4
of an inch in height.
IV.—Red Fumigating Candles.—Sandal wood, 1 part; gum benzoin, 1.5
parts; Tolu balsam, 0.250 parts; sandal oil, .025 parts; cassia oil,
.025 parts; clove oil, 25 parts; saltpeter, .090 parts. The powder is
mixed intimately, saturated with spirit of wine, in which the oils are
dissolved, and shaped into cones.
V.—Wintergreen oil 1 part
Tragacanth 20 parts
Saltpeter 50 parts
Phenol, crystallized 100 parts
Charcoal, powdered 830 parts
Water.
Dissolve the saltpeter in the water, stir the solution together with
the powdered charcoal and dry. Then add the tragacanth powder, also
the wintergreen oil and the phenol, and prepare from the mixture, by
means of a tragacanth solution containing 2 per cent of saltpeter, a
mass which can be shaped into candles.
«Fumigating Perfumes.»—These are used for quickly putting down bad
odors in the sick room, etc. They are decidedly antiseptic, and fulfil
their purpose admirably.
I.—Select good white blotting paper, and cut each large sheet
lengthwise into 3 equal pieces. Make a solution of 1 ounce of potassium
nitrate in 12 ounces of boiling water; place this solution in a large
plate, and draw each strip of paper over the solution so as to saturate
it. Then dry by hanging up. The dried paper is to be saturated in a
similar manner with either of the following solutions:
(1) Siam benzoin 1 ounce
Storax 3 drachms
Olibanum 2 scruples
Mastic 2 scruples
Cascarilla 2 drachms
Vanilla 1 drachm
Rectified spirit 8 ounces
Bruise the solids and macerate in the spirit 5 days, filter, and add
Oil of cinnamon 8 parts
Oil of cloves 8 parts
Oil of bergamot 5 parts
Oil of neroli 5 parts
Mix.
(2) Benzoin 1 1/2 ounces
Sandal wood 1 ounce
Spirit 8 ounces
Macerate as No. 1, and add
Essence of vetiver 3 ounces
Oil of lemon grass 40 drops
Mix.
After the paper is dry, cut up into suitable sized pieces to go into
commercial envelopes.
II.—Benzoin 1 av. ounce
Storax 1 av. ounce
Fumigating essence 2 fluidounces
Ether 1 fluidounce
Acetic acid, glacial 20 drops
Alcohol 2 fluidounces
Dissolve the benzoin and storax in a mixture of the alcohol and ether,
filter and add the fumigating and the acetic acid. Spread the mixture
upon filtering or bibulous paper and allow it to dry. To prevent
sticking, dust the surface with talcum and preserve in wax paper. When
used the paper is simply warmed, or held over a lamp.
III.—Musk 0.2 parts
Oil of rose 1 part
Benzoin 100 parts
Myrrh 12 parts
Orris root 250 parts
Alcohol (90 per cent) 500 parts
IV.—Benzoin 80 parts
Balsam Tolu 20 parts
Storax 20 parts
Sandal wood 20 parts
Myrrh 10 parts
Cascarilla bark 20 parts
Musk 0.2 parts
Alcohol 250 parts
«Fumigating Ribbon.»—I.—Take 1/2-inch cotton tape and saturate it
with niter; when dry, saturate with the following tincture:
Benzoin 1 ounce
Orris root 1 ounce
Myrrh 2 drachms
Tolu balsam 2 drachms
Musk 10 grains
Rectified spirit 10 ounces
Macerate for a week, filter, and add 10 minims of attar of rose.
II.—Another good formula which may also be used for fumigating paper,
is: {367}
Olibanum 2 ounces
Storax 1 ounce
Benzoin 6 drachms
Peruvian balsam 1/2 ounce
Tolu balsam 3 drachms
Rectified spirit 10 ounces
Macerate 10 days, and filter.
«Perfumed Fumigating Pastilles.»—
I.—Vegetable charcoal 6 ounces
Benzoin 1 ounce
Nitrate of potash 1/2 ounce
Tolu balsam 2 drachms
Sandal wood 2 drachms
Mucilage of tragacanth, a sufficiency.
Reduce the solids to fine powder, mix, and make into a stiff paste with
the mucilage. Divide this into cones 25 grains in weight, and dry with
a gentle heat.
II.—Powdered willow charcoal 8 ounces
Benzoic acid 6 ounces
Nitrate of potash 6 drachms
Oil of thyme 1/2 drachm
Oil of sandal wood 1/2 drachm
Oil of caraway 1/2 drachm
Oil of cloves 1/2 drachm
Oil of lavender 1/2 drachm
Oil of rose 1/2 drachm
Rose water 10 ounces
Proceed as in I, but this recipe is better for the addition of 20
grains of powdered tragacanth.
III.—Benzoin 10 av. ounces
Charcoal 24 av. ounces
Potassium nitrate 1 av. ounce
Sassafras 2 av. ounces
Mucilage of acacia, sufficient.
Mix the first four in fine powder, add the mucilage, form a mass, and
make into conical pastilles.
IV.—Potassium nitrate 375 grains
Water 25 fluidounces
Charcoal wood, powder 30 av. ounces
Tragacanth, powder 375 grains
Storax 300 grains
Benzoin 300 grains
Vanillin 8 grains
Coumarin 3 grains
Musk 3 grains
Civet 1 1/2 grains
Oil of rose 20 drops
Oil of bergamot 15 drops
Oil of ylang-ylang 10 drops
Oil of rhodium 10 drops
Oil of sandal wood 5 drops
Oil of cinnamon 5 drops
Oil of orris 1 drop
Oil of cascarilla 1 drop
Saturate the charcoal with the potassium nitrate dissolved in the
water, dry the mass, powder, add the other ingredients, and mix
thoroughly. Beat the mixture to a plastic mass with the addition of
sufficient mucilage of tragacanth containing 2 per cent of saltpeter
in solution, and form into cone-shaped pastilles. In order to evenly
distribute the storax throughout the mass, it may be previously
dissolved in a small amount of acetic ether.
V.—Benzoin 2 av. ounces
Cascarilla 1 av. ounce
Myrrh 1 av. ounce
Potassium nitrate 1/2 av. ounce
Potassium chlorate 60 grains
Charcoal, wood 4 av. ounces
Oil of cloves 1 fluidrachm
Oil of cinnamon 1 fluidrachm
Oil of lavender 1 fluidrachm
Mucilage of tragacanth, sufficient.
Mix the first six ingredients previously reduced to fine powder, add
the oils, and then incorporate enough mucilage to form a mass. Divide
this into pastilles weighing about 60 grains and dry.
VI.—Charcoal, powder 30 av. ounces
Potassium nitrate 1/2 av. ounce
Water 33 fluidounces
Tragacanth, powder 300 grains
Tincture of benzoin 1 1/2 fluidounces
Peru balsam 300 grains
Storax, crude 300 grains
Tolu balsam 300 grains
Oleo-balsamic mixture 2 1/2 fluidrachms
Coumarin 8 grains
Saturate the charcoal with the potassium nitrate dissolved in the
water, then dry, reduce to powder, and incorporate the tragacanth
and then the remaining ingredients. Form a mass by the addition of
sufficient mucilage of tragacanth containing 2 per cent of potassium
nitrate in solution and divide into pastilles.
VII.—Powdered nitrate of potassium 1/2 ounce
Powdered gum arabic 1/2 ounce
Powdered cascarilla bark (fresh) 1/2 ounce
Powdered benzoin (fresh) 4 ounces {368}
Powdered charcoal 7 ounces
Oil of eucalyptus 25 drops
Oil of cloves 25 drops
Water, a sufficiency.
Make a smooth paste, press into molds and dry.
«FURS:»
«To Clean Furs.»—For dark furs, warm a quantity of new bran in a pan,
taking care that it does not burn, to prevent which it must be briskly
stirred. When well warmed rub it thoroughly into the fur with the hand.
Repeat this 2 or 3 times, then shake the fur, and give it another sharp
rubbing until free from dust. For white furs: Lay them on a table, and
rub well with bran made moist with warm water; rub until quite dry, and
afterwards with dry bran. The wet bran should be put on with flannel,
then dry with book muslin. Light furs, in addition to the above, should
be well rubbed with magnesia or a piece of book muslin, after the bran
process, against the way of the fur.
«To Preserve Furs.»—I.—Furs may be preserved from moths and other
insects by placing a little colocynth pulp (bitter apple), or spice
(cloves, pimento, etc.), wrapped in muslin, among them; or they may be
washed in a very weak solution of corrosive sublimate in warm water (10
to 15 grains to the pint), and afterwards carefully dried. As well as
every other species of clothing, they should be kept in a clean, dry
place, from which they should be taken out occasionally, well beaten,
exposed to the air, and returned.
II.—Sprinkle the furs or woolen stuffs, as well as the drawers or boxes
in which they are kept, with spirits of turpentine, the unpleasant
scent of which will speedily evaporate on exposure of the stuffs to
the air. Some persons place sheets of paper moistened with spirits of
turpentine, over, under, or between pieces of cloth, etc., and find it
a very effectual method. Many woolen drapers put bits of camphor, the
size of a nutmeg, in papers, on different parts of the shelves in their
shops, and as they brush their cloths every 2, 3, or 4 months, this
keeps them free from moths; and this should be done in boxes where the
furs, etc., are put. A tallow candle is frequently put within each muff
when laid by. Snuff or pepper is also good.
«FURNACE JACKET.»
A piece of asbestos millboard—10 inches by 4 inches by 3/8 inch—is
perforated in about a dozen or more places with glycerined cork borers,
then nicked about an inch from each short end and immersed in water
until saturated; next the board is bent from the nicks at right angles
and the perforated portion shaped by bending it over a bottle with as
little force as possible. The result should be a perforated arched
tunnel, resting on narrow horizontal ledges at each side. Dry this
cover in the furnace, after setting it in position, and pressing it
well to the supports. Three such covers, weighing 1 pound, replaced
24 fire clay tiles, weighing 13 pounds, and a higher temperature was
obtained than with the latter.
FURNITURE CLEANERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
FURNITURE, ITS DECORATION: See Wood.
FURNITURE ENAMEL: See Varnishes.
FURNITURE POLISHES: See Polishes.
FURNITURE WAX: See Waxes.
FUSES: See Pyrotechnics.
FUSES FOR ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS: See Alloys.
FUNNELS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
GALVANIZED PAPER: See Paper, Metallic.
GAMBOGE STAIN: See Lacquers.
GAPES IN POULTRY: See Veterinary Formulas.
GARANCINE PROCESS: See Dyes.
«GARDENS, CHEMICAL:»
See also Sponges.
I.—Put some sand into a fish-globe or other suitable glass vessel to
the depth of 2 or 3 inches; in this place a few pieces of sulphate of
copper, aluminum, and iron; pour over the whole a solution of sodium
silicate (water glass), 1 part, and water, 3 parts, care being taken
not to disarrange the chemicals. Let this stand a week or so, when a
dense growth of the silicates of the various bases used will be seen in
various colors. Now displace {369} the solution of the sodium silicate
with clear water, by conveying a stream of water through a very small
rubber tube into the vessel. The water will gradually displace the
sodium silicate solution. Care must be taken not to disarrange or break
down the growth with the stream of water. A little experimenting,
experience and expertness will enable the operator to produce a very
pretty garden.
II.—This is a permanent chemical garden, which may be suspended by
brass chains with a lamp behind.
Prepare a small beaker or jar full of cold saturated solution of
Glauber’s salt, and into the solution suspend by means of threads a
kidney bean and a non-porous body, such as a marble, stone, glass, etc.
Cover the jar, and in a short time there will be seen radiating from
the bean small crystals of sulphate of sodium which will increase and
give the bean the aspect of a sea urchin, while the non-porous body
remains untouched. The bean appears to have a special partiality for
the crystals, which is due to the absorption of water by the bean, but
not of the salt. In this way a supersaturated solution is formed in
the immediate neighborhood of the bean, and the crystals, in forming,
attach themselves to its surface.
III.—A popular form of ornamental crystallization is that obtained by
immersing a zinc rod in a solution of a lead salt, thus obtaining the
“lead tree.” To prepare this, dissolve lead acetate in water, add a few
drops of nitric acid, and then suspend the zinc rod in the solution.
The lead is precipitated in large and beautiful plates until the
solution is exhausted or the zinc dissolved. In this case the action is
electro-chemical, the first portions of the lead precipitated forming
with the zinc a voltaic arrangement of sufficient power to decompose
the salt.
It is said that by substituting chloride of tin for the lead salt a
“tin tree” may be produced, while nitrate of silver under the same
conditions would produce a “silver tree.” In the latter case distilled
water should be used to prevent precipitation of the silver by possible
impurities contained in ordinary water.
GAS FIXTURES: See Brass.
GAS FIXTURES, BRONZING OF: See Plating.
GAS SOLDERING: See Soldering.
GAS-STOVES, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.
GAS TRICK: See Pyrotechnics.
GEAR LUBRICANT: See Lubricants.
«GELATIN:»