letters, observing especial care in getting the mixture well and
uniformly laid around the inside edges of the letter. In attaching
the letters to the glass make sure to expel the air from beneath the
characters, and to do this, work them up and down and sidewise. If the
weather be at all warm, support the letters while drying by pressing
tiny beads of sealing wax against the glass, close to the under side
or bottom of the letters. With a putty knife, keenly sharpened on one
edge, next remove all the surplus cement. Give the letters a hard, firm
pressure against the glass around all edges to securely guard against
the disruptive attacks of moisture.
The seepage of moisture beneath the surface of the letters is the main
cause of their early detachment from the glass.
The removal of the letters from the glass may be effected by applying
turpentine to the top of the characters, allowing it to soak down and
through the cement. Oxalic acid applied in the same way will usually
slick the letters off in a trice.
«Cement for Porcelain Letters.»—Slake 15 parts of fresh quicklime in 20
parts of water. Melt 50 parts of caoutchouc and 50 parts of linseed-oil
varnish together, and bring the mixture to a boil. While boiling,
pour the liquid on the slaked lime, little by little, under constant
stirring. Pass the mixture, while still hot, through muslin, to remove
any possible lumps, and let cool. It takes the cement 2 days to set
completely, but when dry it makes a joint that will resist a great
deal of strain. By thinning the mixture down with oil of turpentine, a
brilliant, powerfully adhesive varnish is obtained.
«Water-Glass Cements.»—I.—Water glass (sodium of potassium silicate),
which is frequently recommended for cementing glass, does not, as is
often asserted, form a vitreous connection between the joined surfaces;
and, in fact, some of the commercial varieties will not even dry, but
merely form a thick paste, which has a strong affinity for moisture.
Good 30° B. water glass is, however, suitable for mending articles that
are exposed to heat, and is best applied to surfaces that have been
gently warmed; when the pieces are put together they should be pressed
warmly, to expel any superfluous cement, and then heated strongly.
To repair cracked glasses or bottles through which water will leak,
water glasses may be used, the application being effected in the
following easy manner: The vessel is warmed to induce rarefaction of
the internal air, after which the mouth is closed, either by a cork
in the case of bottles, or by a piece of parchment or bladder if a
wide-mouthed vessel is under treatment.
While still hot, the outside of the crack is covered with a little
glass, and the vessel set aside to cool, whereupon the difference
between the pressure of the external and internal air will force the
cement into the fissure and close it completely. All that is then
necessary is to take off the cover and leave the vessel to warm for a
few hours. Subsequently rinse it out with lime water, followed by clean
water, and it will then hold any liquid, acids and alkaline fluids
alone excepted.
II.—When water glass is brought into contact with calcium chloride,
a calcium silicate is at once formed which is insoluble in water. It
seems possible that this reaction may be used in binding together
masses of sand, etc. The process indicated has long been used in the
preservation of stone which has become “weathered.” The stone is first
brushed with the water glass and afterwards with a solution of calcium
chloride. The conditions here are of course different.
Calcium chloride must not be confounded with the so-called “chloride of
lime” which is a mixture of calcium hypochlorite and other bodies.
«To Fasten Paper Tickets to Glass.»—To attach paper tickets to glass,
the employment of water glass is efficacious. Care should be taken
to spread this product on the glass and not on the paper, and then
to apply the paper dry, which should be done immediately. When the
solution is dry the paper cannot be {20} detached. The silicate should
be somewhat diluted. It is spread on the glass with a rag or a small
sponge.
«JEWELERS’ CEMENTS.»
Jewelers and goldsmiths require, for the cementing of genuine and
colored gems, as well as for the placing of colored folio under
certain stones, very adhesive gluing agents, which must, however,
be colorless. In this respect these are distinguished chiefly by the
so-called diamond cement and the regular jewelers’ cement. Diamond
cement is much esteemed by jewelers for cementing precious stones and
corals, but may also be employed with advantage for laying colored
fluxes of glass on white glass. The diamond cement is of such a nature
as to be able to remain for some time in contact with water without
becoming soft. It adheres best between glass or between precious
stones. It is composed as follows: Isinglass 8 parts, gum ammoniac 1
part, galbanum 1 part, spirit of wine 4 parts. Soak the isinglass in
water with admixture of a little spirit of wine and add the solution
of the gums in the remainder of the spirit of wine. Before use, heat
the diamond cement a little so as to soften it. Jewelers’ cement is
used for similar purposes as is the diamond cement, and is prepared
from: Isinglass (dry) 10 parts, mastic varnish 5 parts. Dissolve the
isinglass in very little water, adding some strong spirit of wine. The
mastic varnish is prepared by pouring a mixture of highly rectified
spirit of wine and benzine over finely powdered mastic and dissolving
it in the smallest possible quantity of liquid. The two solutions of
isinglass and mastic are intimately ground together in a porcelain dish.
«Armenian Cement.»—The celebrated “Armenian” cement, so called formerly
used by Turkish and Oriental jewelers generally, for setting precious
stones, “facing diamonds,” rubies, etc., is made as follows:
Mastic gum 10 parts
Isinglass (fish glue) 20 parts
Gum ammoniac 5 parts
Alcohol absolute 60 parts
Alcohol, 50 per cent 35 parts
Water 100 parts
Dissolve the mastic in the absolute alcohol; dissolve, by the aid of
gentle heat, on the water bath, the isinglass in the water, and add 10
parts of the dilute alcohol. Now dissolve the ammoniacum in the residue
of the dilute alcohol. Add the first solution to the second, mix
thoroughly by agitation and then add the solution of gum ammoniac and
stir well in. Finally put on the water bath, and keeping at a moderate
heat, evaporate the whole down to 175 parts.
«Cement for Enameled Dials.»—The following is a good cement for
enameled dials, plates, or other pieces: Grind into a fine powder
2 1/2 parts of dammar rosin and 2 1/2 parts of copal, using
colorless pieces if possible. Next add 2 parts of Venetian turpentine
and enough spirit of wine so that the whole forms a thick paste. To
this grind 3 parts of the finest zinc white. The mass now has the
consistency of prepared oil paint. To remove the yellow tinge of the
cement add a trifle of Berlin blue to the zinc white. Finally, the
whole is heated until the spirit of wine is driven off and a molten
mass remains, which is allowed to cool and is kept for use. Heat the
parts to be cemented.
«Watch-Lid Cement.»—The hardest cement for fixing on watch lids is
shellac. If the lids are exceedingly thin the engraving will always
press through. Before cementing it on the inside of the lid, in order
not to injure the polish, it is coated with chalk dissolved in alcohol,
which is first allowed to dry. Next melt the shellac on the stick, heat
the watch lid and put it on. After the engraving has been done, simply
force the lid off and remove the remaining shellac from the latter by
light tapping. If this does not remove it completely lay the lid in
alcohol, leaving it therein until all the shellac has dissolved. All
that remains to be done now is to wash out the watch lid.
«Jewelers’ Glue Cement.»—Dissolve on a water bath 50 parts of fish glue
in a little 95-per-cent alcohol, adding 4 parts, by weight, of gum
ammoniac. On the other hand, dissolve 2 parts, by weight, of mastic in
10 parts, by weight, of alcohol. Mix these two solutions and preserve
in a well-corked flask. For use it suffices to soften it on the water
bath.
«Casein Cements.»—
I.—Borax 5 parts
Water 95 parts
Casein, sufficient quantity.
Dissolve the borax in water and incorporate enough casein to produce a
mass of the proper consistency.
II.—The casein is made feebly alkaline by means of soda or potash lye
and {21} then subjected for about 24 hours to a temperature of 140° F.
Next follow the customary admixture, such as lime and water glass, and
finally, to accomplish a quicker resinification, substances containing
tannin are added. For tannic admixtures to the partially disintegrated
casein, slight quantities—about 1 per cent—of gallic acid, cutch, or
quercitannic acid are employed. The feebly alkaline casein cement
containing tannic acid is used in the well-known manner for the gluing
together of wood.
«For Metals.»—Make a paste with 16 ounces casein, 20 ounces slaked
lime, and 20 ounces of sand, in water.
«For Glass.»—I.—Dissolve casein in a concentrated solution of borax.
II.—Make a paste of casein and water glass.
«Pasteboard and Paper Cement.»—I.—Let pure glue swell in cold water;
pour and press off the excess; put on the water bath and melt. Paper
or other material cemented with this is then immediately, before the
cement dries, submitted to the action of formaldehyde and dried. The
cement resists the action of water, even hot.
II.—Melt together equal parts of good pitch and gutta percha. To 9
parts of this mass add 3 parts of boiled linseed oil and 1/5 part
litharge. The heat is kept up until, with constant stirring, an
intimate union of all the ingredients has taken place. The mixture is
diluted with a little benzine or oil of turpentine and applied while
still warm. The cement is waterproof.
III.—The _National Druggist_ says that experience with pasting or
cementing parchment paper seems to show that about the best agent
is casein cement, made by dissolving casein in a saturated aqueous
solution of borax.
IV.—The following is recommended for paper boxes:
Chloral hydrate 5 parts
Gelatin, white 8 parts
Gum arabic 2 parts
Boiling water 30 parts
Mix the chloral, gelatin, and gum arabic in a porcelain container, pour
the boiling water over the mixture and let stand for 1 day, giving it
a vigorous stirring several times during the day. In cold weather this
is apt to get hard and stiff, but this may be obviated by standing the
container in warm water for a few minutes. This paste adheres to any
surface whatever.
«Waterproof Cements for Glass, Stoneware, and Metal.»—I.—Make a paste
of sulphur, sal ammoniac, iron filings, and boiled oil.
II.—Mix together dry: Whiting, 6 pounds; plaster of Paris, 3 pounds;
sand, 3 pounds; litharge, 3 pounds; rosin, 1 pound. Make to a paste
with copal varnish.
III.—Make a paste of boiled oil, 6 pounds; copal, 6 pounds; litharge, 2
pounds; white lead, 1 pound.
IV.—Make a paste with boiled oil, 3 pounds; brickdust 2 pounds; dry
slaked lime, 1 pound.
V.—Dissolve 93 ounces of alum and 93 ounces of sugar of lead in water
to concentration. Dissolve separately 152 ounces of gum arabic in 25
gallons of water, and then stir in 62 1/2 pounds of flour. Then heat
to a uniform paste with the metallic salts, but take care not to boil
the mass.
VI.—For Iron and Marble to Stand in Heat.—In 3 pounds of water dissolve
first, 1 pound water glass and then 1 pound of borax. With the solution
make 2 pounds of clay and 1 pound of barytes, first mixed dry, to a
paste.
VII.—Glue to Resist Boiling Water.—Dissolve separately in water 55
pounds of glue and a mixture of 40 pounds of bichromate and 5 pounds of
alum. Mix as wanted.
VIII. (Chinese Glue).—Dissolve shellac in 10 times its weight of
ammonia.
IX.—Make a paste of 40 ounces of dry slaked lime 10 ounces of alum, and
50 ounces of white of egg.
X.—Alcohol 1,000 parts
Sandarac 60 parts
Mastic 60 parts
Turpentine oil 60 parts
Dissolve the gums in the alcohol and add the oil and stir in. Now
prepare a solution of equal parts of glue and isinglass, by soaking 125
parts of each in cold water until it becomes saturated, pouring and
pressing off the residue, and melting on the water bath. This should
produce a volume of glue nearly equal to that of the solution of gums.
The latter should, in the meantime, have been cautiously raised to
the boiling point on the water bath, and then mixed with the hot glue
solution.
It is said that articles united with this substance will stand the
strain of cold water for an unlimited time, and it takes hot water even
a long time to affect it. {22}
XI.—Burgundy pitch 6 parts
Gutta percha 1 part
Pumice stone, in fine powder 3 parts
Melt the gutta percha very carefully add the pumice stone, and lastly
the pitch, and stir until homogeneous.
Use while still hot. This cement will withstand water and dilute
mineral acids.
«LEATHER AND RUBBER CEMENTS.»
I.—Use a melted mixture of gutta percha and genuine asphalt, applied
hot. The hard-rubber goods must be kept pressed together until the
cement has cooled.
II.—A cement which is effective for cementing rubber to iron and which
is especially valuable for fastening rubber bands to bandsaw wheels is
made as follows: Powdered shellac, 1 part; strong water of ammonia,
10 parts. Put the shellac in the ammonia water and set it away in a
tightly closed jar for 3 or 4 weeks. By that time the mixture will
become a perfectly liquid transparent mass and is then ready for
use. When applied to rubber the ammonia softens it, but it quickly
evaporates, leaving the rubber in the same condition as before. The
shellac clings to the iron and thus forms a firm bond between the iron
and the rubber.
III.—Gutta percha white 1 drachm
Carbon disulphide 1 ounce
Dissolve, filter, and add:
India rubber 15 grains
Dissolve.
«Cement for Metal on Hard Rubber.»—I.—Soak good Cologne glue and boil
down so as to give it the consistency of joiners’ glue, and add with
constant stirring, enough sifted wood ashes until a homogeneous,
moderately thick mass results. Use warm and fit the pieces well
together while drying.
«How to Unite Rubber and Leather.»—II.—Roughen both surfaces, the
leather and the rubber, with a sharp glass edge; apply to both a
diluted solution of gutta percha in carbon bisulphide and let this
solution soak into the material. Then press upon each surface a skin
of gutta percha 1/10 of an inch in thickness between rolls. The two
surfaces are now united in a press, which should be warm but not hot.
This method should answer in all cases in which it is applicable. The
other prescription covers cases in which a press cannot be used. Cut
30 parts of rubber into small pieces, and dissolve it in 140 parts of
carbon bisulphide, the vessel being placed on a water bath of 30° C.
(86° F.). Further, melt 10 parts of rubber with 15 of colophony, and
add 35 parts of oil of turpentine. When the rubber has been completely
dissolved, the two liquids may be mixed. The resulting cement must be
kept well corked.
«To Fasten Rubber to Wood.»—I.—Make a cement by macerating virgin gum
rubber, or as pure rubber as can be had, cut in small pieces, in just
enough naphtha or gasoline to cover it. Let it stand in a very tightly
corked or sealed jar for 14 days, or a sufficient time to become
dissolved, shaking the mixture daily.
II.—Dissolve pulverized gum shellac, 1 ounce, in 9 1/2 ounces of
strong ammonia. This of course must be kept tightly corked. It will not
be as elastic as the first preparation.
III.—Fuse together shellac and gutta percha in equal weights.
IV.—India rubber 8 ounces
Gutta percha 4 ounces
Isinglass 2 ounces
Bisulphide of carbon 32 ounces
V.—India rubber 5 ounces
Gum mastic 1 ounce
Chloroform 3 ounces
VI.—Gutta percha 16 ounces
India rubber 4 ounces
Pitch 4 ounces
Shellac 1 ounce
Linseed oil 1 ounce
Amalgamate by heat.
VII.—Mix 1 ounce of oil of turpentine with 10 ounces of bisulphide of
carbon in which as much gutta percha as possible has been dissolved.
VIII.—Amalgamate by heat:
Gutta percha 100 ounces
Venice turpentine 80 ounces
Shellac 8 ounces
India rubber 2 ounces
Liquid storax 10 ounces
IX.—Amalgamate by heat:
India rubber 100 ounces
Rosin 15 ounces
Shellac 10 ounces
Then dissolve in bisulphide of carbon.
X.—Make the following solutions separately and mix:
(_a_) India rubber 5 ounces
Chloroform 140 ounces
(_b_) India rubber 5 ounces
Rosin 2 ounces
Venice turpentine 1 ounce
Oil of turpentine 20 ounces
{23}
«Cement for Patching Rubber Boots and Shoes.»—
I.—India rubber, finely chopped 100 parts
Rosin 15 parts
Shellac 10 parts
Carbon disulphide, q. s. to dissolve.
This will not only unite leather to leather, india rubber, etc., but
will unite rubber to almost any substance.
II.—Caoutchouc, finely cut 4 parts
India rubber, finely cut 1 part
Carbon disulphide 32 parts
Dissolve the caoutchouc in the carbon disulphide, add the rubber, let
macerate a few days, then mash with a palette knife to a smooth paste.
The vessel in which the solution is made in both instances above must
be kept tightly closed, and should have frequent agitations.
III.—Take 100 parts of crude rubber or caoutchouc, cut it up in small
bits, and dissolve it in sufficient carbon bisulphide, add to it 15
parts of rosin and 10 parts of gum lac. The user must not overlook the
great inflammability and exceedingly volatile nature of the carbon
bisulphide.
«Tire Cements.»—
I.—India rubber 15 grams
Chloroform 2 ounces
Mastic 1/2 ounce
Mix the india rubber and chloroform together, and when dissolved, the
mastic is added in powder. It is then allowed to stand a week or two
before using.
II.—The following is recommended as very good for cementing pneumatic
tires to bicycle wheels:
Shellac 1 ounce
Gutta percha 1 ounce
Sulphur 45 grains
Red lead 45 grains
Melt together the shellac and gutta percha, then add, with constant
stirring, the sulphur and red lead. Use while hot.
III.—Raw gutta percha 16 ounces
Carbon bisulphide 72 ounces
Eau de Cologne 2 2/3 ounces
This cement is the subject of an English patent and is recommended for
patching cycle and motor tires, insulating electric wires, etc.
IV.—A good thick shellac varnish with which a small amount of castor
oil has been mixed will be found a very excellent bicycle rim cement.
The formula recommended by Edel is as follows:
Shellac 1 pound
Alcohol 1 pint
Mix and dissolve, then add:
Castor oil 1/2 ounce
The castor oil prevents the cement from becoming hard and brittle.
A cement used to fasten bicycle tires may be made by melting together
at a gentle heat equal parts of gutta percha and asphalt. Apply hot.
Sometimes a small quantity each of sulphur and red lead is added (about
1 part of each to 20 parts of cement).
«Cements for Leather.»—
I.—Gutta percha 20 parts
Syrian asphalt, powdered 20 parts
Carbon disulphide 50 parts
Oil of turpentine 10 parts
The gutta percha, shredded fine, is dissolved in the carbon disulphide
and turpentine oil. To the solution add the asphalt and set away for
several days, or until the asphalt is dissolved. The cement should have
the consistency of honey. If the preparation is thinner than this let
it stand, open, for a few days. Articles to be patched should first be
washed with benzine.
II.—Glue 1 ounce
Starch paste 2 ounces
Turpentine 1 drachm
Water, a sufficient quantity.
Dissolve the glue in sufficient water with heat; mix the starch paste
with water; add the turpentine, and finally mix with the glue while hot.
III.—Soak for one day 1 pound of common glue in enough water to cover,
and 1 pound of isinglass in ale droppings. Then mix together and heat
gently until boiling. At this point add a little pure tannin and keep
boiling for an hour. If the glue and isinglass when mixed are too
thick, add water. This cement should be used warm and the jointed
leather pressed tightly together for 12 hours.
IV.—A waterproof cement for leather caoutchouc, or balata, is prepared
by dissolving gutta percha, caoutchouc, benzoin, gum lac, mastic,
etc., in some convenient solvent like carbon disulphide, chloroform,
ether, or alcohol. The best solvent, however, in the case of gutta
percha, is carbon disulphide and ether for mastic. The most favorable
proportions are as follows: Gutta percha, 200 to 300 parts to 100 parts
of the solvent, and 75 to 85 parts of mastic to 100 parts of ether.
From 5 to 8 parts of the former solution are mixed with 1 {24} part of
the latter, and the mixture is then boiled on the water bath, or in a
vessel fitted with a water jacket.
V.—Make a solution of 200 to 300 parts of caoutchouc, gutta percha,
india rubber, benzoin, or similar gum, in 1,000 parts of carbon
disulphide, chloroform, ether, or alcohol, and of this add 5 to 8 parts
to a solution of mastic (75 to 125 parts) in ether 100 parts, of equal
volume and boil together. Use hot water as the boiling agent, or boil
very cautiously on the water bath.
VI.—Forty parts of aluminum acetate, 10° B., 10 parts of glue, 10 parts
of rye flour. These materials are either to be simultaneously mixed and
boiled, or else the glue is to be dissolved in the aluminum acetate,
and the flour stirred into the solution. This is an excellent cement
for leather, and is used in so-called art work with leather, and with
leather articles which are made of several pieces. It is to be applied
warm.
«Rubber Cement for Cloth.»—The following formulas have been recommended:
I.—Caoutchouc, 5 parts; chloroform, 3 parts. Dissolve and add gum
mastic (powder) 1 part.
II.—Gutta percha, 16 parts; india rubber, 4 parts; pitch, 2 parts;
shellac, 1 part; linseed oil, 2 parts. Reduce the solids to small
pieces, melt together with the oil and mix well.
III.—The following cement for mending rubber shoes and tires will
answer similar purposes:
Caoutchouc in shavings 10 parts by weight
Rosin 4 parts by weight
Gum turpentine 40 parts by weight
Oil turpentine, enough.
Melt together first the caoutchouc and rosin, then add the gum
turpentine, and when all is liquefied, add enough of oil of turpentine
to preserve it liquid. A second solution is prepared by dissolving
together:
Caoutchouc 10 parts by weight
Chloroform 280 parts by weight
For use these two solutions are mixed. Wash the hole in the rubber shoe
over with the cement, then a piece of linen dipped in it is placed
over it; as soon as the linen adheres to the sole, the cement is then
applied as thickly as required.
«CEMENTS FOR METALS AND FOR ATTACHING VARIOUS SUBSTANCES TO METALS:»
«Cements for Iron.»—I.—To make a good cement for iron on iron, make a
thick paste, with water, of powdered iron, 60 parts; sal ammoniac, 2
parts, and sulphur flowers, 1 part. Use while fresh.
II.—Sulphur flowers, 6 parts; dry white lead 6 parts, and powdered
borax, 1 part. Mix by sifting and keep as a dry powder in a closed tin
box. To use, make into a thin paste with strong sulphuric acid and
press together immediately. This cement will harden in 5 days.
III.—Graphite 50 pounds
Whiting 15 pounds
Litharge 15 pounds
Make to a paste with a boiled oil.
IV.—Make a paste of white lead and asbestos.
V.—Make a paste of litharge and glycerine. Red lead may be added. This
also does for stone.
VI.—Make a paste of boiled oil of equal parts of white lead, pipe clay,
and black oxide of manganese.
VII.—Make iron filings to a paste with water glass.
VIII.—Sal ammoniac 4 ounces
Sulphur 2 ounces
Iron filings 32 ounces
Make as much as is to be used at once to a paste with a little water.
This remark applies to both the following dry recipes:
IX.—Iron filings 160 ounces
Lime 80 ounces
Red lead 16 ounces
Alum 8 ounces
Sal ammoniac 2 ounces
X.—Clay 10 ounces
Iron filings 4 ounces
Salt 1 ounce
Borax 1 ounce
Black oxide of manganese 2 ounces
XI.—Mix:
Iron filings 180 ounces
Lime 45 ounces
Salt 8 ounces
XII.—Mix:
Iron filings 140 ounces
Hydraulic lime 20 ounces
Sand 25 ounces
Sal ammoniac 3 ounces
Either of these last two mixtures is made into a paste with strong
vinegar just before use.
XIII.—Mix equal weights of zinc oxide and black oxide of manganese into
a paste with water glass.