«HENLEY’S TWENTIETH CENTURY RECIPES, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES»
CONTAINING TEN THOUSAND SELECTED HOUSEHOLD AND WORKSHOP FORMULAS,
RECIPES, PROCESSES AND MONEY-SAVING METHODS FOR THE PRACTICAL USE OF
MANUFACTURERS, MECHANICS, HOUSEKEEPERS AND HOME WORKERS
EDITED BY
GARDNER D. HISCOX, M.E.
AUTHOR OF “MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS, POWERS AND DEVICES,” “COMPRESSED
AIR,” “GAS, GASOLINE AND OIL ENGINES,” ETC., ETC.
[Illustration]
1914 EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED
NEW YORK
THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING COMPANY
132 NASSAU STREET
1914
COPYRIGHT, 1914 AND 1913, BY
THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING COMPANY
COPYRIGHT, 1912 AND 1907, BY
THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING COMPANY
Also, Entered at Stationers’ Hall Court, London, England
_All rights reserved_
THE TROW PRESS, NEW YORK
«PREFACE»
In compiling this book of formulas, recipes and processes, the Editor
has endeavored to meet the practical requirements of the home and
workshop—the mechanic, the manufacturer, the artisan, the housewife,
and the general home worker.
In addition to exercising the utmost care in selecting his materials
from competent sources, the Editor has also modified formulas which
were obviously ill adapted for his needs, but were valuable if altered.
Processes of questionable merit he has discarded. By adhering to this
plan the Editor trusts that he has succeeded in preparing a repository
of useful knowledge representing the experience of experts in every
branch of practical achievement. Much of the matter has been specially
translated for this work from foreign technological periodicals and
books. In this way the Editor has embodied much practical information
otherwise inaccessible to most English-speaking people.
Each recipe is to be regarded as a basis of experiment, to be modified
to suit the particular purpose in hand, or the peculiar conditions
which may affect the experimenter. Chemicals are not always of uniform
relative purity and strength; heat or cold may markedly influence the
result obtained, and lack of skill in the handling of utensils and
instruments may sometimes cause failure. Inasmuch as a particular
formula may not always be applicable, the Editor has thought it
advisable to give as many recipes as his space would allow under
each heading. In some instances a series of formulas is given which
apparently differ but slightly in their ingredients. This has been done
on the principle that one or more may be chosen for the purpose in hand.
Recognizing the fact that works of a similar character are not unknown,
the Editor has endeavored to present in these pages the most modern
methods and formulas. Naturally, old recipes and so-called trade
secrets which have proven their value by long use are also included,
particularly where no noteworthy advance has been made; but the primary
aim has been to modernize and bring the entire work up to the present
date.
THE EDITOR.
JANUARY, 1914.
«PARTIAL LIST OF AUTHORITIES CONSULTED»
Apothecary, The.
Berliner Drog. Zeitung.
Brass World.
British Journal of Photography.
Chemical News.
Chemiker Zeitung Repertorium.
Chemisch Technische Fabrikant.
Chemische Zeitung.
Chemist-Druggist.
Comptes Rendus.
Cooley’s Receipts.
Cosmos.
Dekorationsmaler, Der.
Deutsche Drog. Zeitung.
Deutsche Goldschmiede Zeitung.
Deutsche Handwerk.
Deutsche Maler Zeitung.
Deutsche Topfer und Ziefler Zeitung.
Dingler’s Polytechnic Journal.
Drogisten Zeitung.
Druggists’ Circular.
English Mechanic.
Farben Zeitung.
Gummi Zeitung.
Journal der Goldschmiedekunst.
Journal of Applied Microscopy.
Journal of the Franklin Institute.
Journal Society of Chemical Industry.
Journal Suisse d’Horlogerie.
Keramische Rundschau.
La Nature.
La Science en Famille.
La Vie Scientifique.
Lack und Farben Industrie.
Legierungen.
Le Genie Civil.
Le Praticien.
Leipziger Farber und Zeugdrucker Zeitung.
Maler Zeitung.
Metallarbeiter.
Mining and Scientific Press.
Neueste Erfindungen und Erfahrungen.
Nouvelles Scientifiques.
Oils, Colors, and Drysalteries.
Papier-Zeitung.
Parfumer, Der.
Pharmaceutische Zeitung.
Pharmaceutische Centralhalle.
Pharmaceutische Era.
Pharmaceutische Journal.
Pharmaceutische Journal Formulary.
Photo Times.
Polytech. Centralblatt.
Polyt. Notizblatt.
Popular Science News.
Pottery Gazette.
Practical Druggist.
Revue Chronometrique.
Revue de la Droguerie.
Revue des Produits Chimiques.
Revue Industrielle.
Science, Arts and Nature.
Science Pratique.
Seifensieder Zeitung, Der.
Seifenfabrikant, Der.
Spatula.
Stein der Weisen, Der.
Sudd. Apoth. Zeitung.
Technisches Centralblatt.
Technische Rundschau.
Uhland’s Technische Rundschau.
Verzinnen Verzinken Vernickeln, Das.
Werkmeister Zeitung.
Wiener Drogisten Zeitung.
Wiener Gewerbe Zeitung.
Zeitschrift für die Gesammte Kohlensaure Industrie.
{9}
«HENLEY’S BOOK OF RECIPES»
ABRASION REMEDY: See Cosmetics and Ointments.
ABSINTHE: See Wines and Liquors.
«Acid-Proofing»
«An Acid-Proof Table Top.»—
1.
Copper sulphate 1 part
Potassium chlorate 1 part
Water 8 parts
Boil until salts are dissolved.
2.
Aniline hydrochlorate 3 parts
Water 20 parts
Or, if more readily procurable:
Aniline 6 parts
Hydrochloric acid 9 parts
Water 50 parts
By the use of a brush two coats of solution No. 1 are applied while
hot; the second coat as soon as the first is dry. Then two coats of
solution No. 2, and the wood allowed to dry thoroughly. Later, a coat
of raw linseed oil is to be applied, using a cloth instead of a brush,
in order to get a thinner coat of the oil.
A writer in the _Journal of Applied Microscopy_ states that he has used
this method upon some old laboratory tables which had been finished in
the usual way, the wood having been filled oiled, and varnished. After
scraping off the varnish down to the wood, the solutions were applied,
and the result was very satisfactory.
After some experimentations the formula was modified without materially
affecting the cost, and apparently increasing the resistance of the
wood to the action of strong acids and alkalies. The modified formula
follows:
1.
Iron sulphate 4 parts
Copper sulphate 4 parts
Potassium permanganate 8 parts
Water, q. s. 100 parts
2.
Aniline 12 parts
Hydrochloric acid 18 parts
Water, q. s. 100 parts
Or:
Aniline hydrochlorate 15 parts
Water, q. s. 100 parts
Solution No. 2 has not been changed, except to arrange the parts per
hundred.
The method of application is the same, except that after solution No. 1
has dried the excess of the solution which has dried upon the surface
of the wood is thoroughly rubbed off before the application of solution
No. 2. The black color does not appear at once, but usually requires a
few hours before becoming ebony black. The linseed oil may be diluted
with turpentine without disadvantage, and after a few applications the
surface will take on a dull and not displeasing polish. The table tops
are easily cleaned by washing with water or suds after a course of work
is completed, and the application of another coat of oil puts them in
excellent order for another course of work. Strong acids or alkalies
when spilled, if soon wiped off, have scarcely a perceptible effect.
A slate or tile top is expensive not only in its original cost, but
also as a destroyer of glassware. Wood tops when painted, oiled, or
paraffined have objectionable features, the latter especially in warm
weather. Old table tops, after the paint or oil is scraped off down to
the wood, take the above finish nearly as well as the new wood.
«To Make Wood Acid- and Chlorine-Proof.»—Take 6 pounds of wood tar and
12 pounds rosin, and melt them together in an iron kettle, after which
stir in 8 pounds finely powdered brick dust. The damaged parts must be
cleaned perfectly and dried, whereupon they may be painted over with
the warm preparation or filled up and drawn off, leaving the film on
the inside.
«Protecting Cement Against Acid.»—A paint to protect cement against
acid is obtained by mixing pure asbestos, very finely powdered,
with a thick solution of {10} sodium silicate. The sodium silicate
must be as alkaline as possible. The asbestos is first rubbed with
a small quantity of the silicate, until a cake is obtained and then
kept in well-closed vessels. For use this cake is simply thinned with
a solution of the silicate, which furnishes a paint two or three
applications of which protect the walls of reservoirs, etc., against
any acid solid or liquid. This mass may also be employed for making a
coating of sandstone.
«To Make Corks Impermeable and Acid-Proof.»—Choose your corks
carefully. Then plunge them into a solution of gelatin or common glue,
15 parts, in 24 parts of glycerine and 500 parts of water, heated to
44° or 48° C. (112°–120° F.), and keep them there for several hours. On
removing the corks, which should be weighted down in the solution, dry
them in the shade until they are free from all surplus moisture. They
are now perfectly tight, retaining at the same time the greater portion
of their elasticity and suppleness. To render them acid-proof, they
should be treated with a mixture of vaseline, 2 parts, and paraffine
7 parts, heated to about 105° F. This second operation may be avoided
by adding to the gelatin solution a little ammonium dichromate and
afterwards exposing the corks to the light.
«Lining for Acid Receptacles.»—Plates are formed of 1 part of brown
slate, 2 of powdered glass, and 1 of Portland cement, the whole worked
up with silicate of soda, molded and dried. Make a cement composed of
ground slate and silicate of soda and smear the surface for the lining;
then, while it is still plastic, apply the plates prepared as above
described. Instead of these plates, slabs of glass or porcelain or
similar substances may be employed with the same cement.
ACACIA, MUCILAGE OF: See Adhesives under Mucilages.
ACID-PROOF GLASS: See Glass.
ACID-RESISTING PAINT: See Paint.
ACIDS, SOLDERING: See Solders.
ACID STAINS FROM THE SKIN, TO REMOVE: See Cleaning Preparations and
Methods.
ACID TEST FOR VINEGAR: See Vinegar.
«Adhesives»
«GLUES:»
«Manufacture of Glue.»—I.—The usual process of removing the phosphate
of lime from bones for glue-making purposes by means of dilute
hydrochloric acid has the disadvantage that the acid cannot be
regenerated. Attempts to use sulphurous acid instead have so far proved
unsuccessful, as, even with the large quantities used, the process
is very slow. According to a German invention this difficulty with
sulphurous acid can be avoided by using it in aqueous solution under
pressure. The solution of the lime goes on very rapidly, it is claimed,
and no troublesome precipitation of calcium sulphite takes place. Both
phosphate of lime and sulphurous acid are regenerated from the lyes by
simple distillation.
II.—Bones may be treated with successive quantities of combined
sulphurous acid and water, from which the heat of combination has been
previously dissipated, the solution being removed after each treatment,
before the bone salts dissolved therein precipitate, and before the
temperature rises above 74° F.—U. S. Pat. 783,784.
III.—A patent relating to the process for treating animal sinews,
preparatory for the glue factory, has been granted to Florsheim,
Chicago, and consists in immersing animal sinews successively in
petroleum or benzine to remove the outer fleshy animal skin; in
a hardening or preserving bath, as boric acid, or alum or copper
sulphate; and in an alkaline bath to remove fatty matter from the
fibrous part of the sinews. The sinews are afterwards tanned and
disintegrated.
«Test for Glue.»—The more water the glue takes up, swelling it, the
better it is. Four ounces of the glue to be examined are soaked for
about 12 hours in a cool place in 4 pounds of cold water. If the glue
has dissolved after this time, it is of bad quality and of little
value; but if it is coherent, gelatinous, and weighing double, it is
good; if it weighs up to 16 ounces, it is very good; if as much as 20
ounces, it may be called excellent.
«To Prevent Glue from Cracking.»—To prevent glue from cracking, which
frequently occurs when glued articles are {11} exposed to the heat of a
stove, a little chloride of potassium is added. This prevents the glue
from becoming dry enough to crack. Glue thus treated will adhere to
glass, metals, etc., and may also be used for pasting on labels.
«Preventing the Putrefaction of Strong Glues.»—The fatty matter always
existing in small quantity in sheets of ordinary glue affects the
adhesive properties and facilitates the development of bacteria, and
consequently putrefaction and decomposition. These inconveniences are
remedied by adding a small quantity of caustic soda to the dissolved
glue. The soda prevents decomposition absolutely; with the fatty matter
it forms a hard soap which renders it harmless.
«Liquid Glues.»—
I.—Glue 3 ounces
Gelatin 3 ounces
Acetic acid 4 ounces
Water 2 ounces
Alum 30 grains
Heat together for 6 hours, skim, and add:
II.—Alcohol 1 fluid ounce
Brown glue, No. 2. 2 pounds
Sodium carbonate 11 ounces
Water 3 1/2 pints
Oil of clove 160 minims
Dissolve the soda in the water, pour the solution over the dry glue,
let stand over night or till thoroughly soaked and swelled, then heat
carefully on a water bath until dissolved. When nearly cold stir in the
oil of cloves.
By using white glue, a finer article, fit for fancy work, may be made.
III.—Dissolve by heating 60 parts of borax in 420 parts of water,
add 480 parts dextrin (pale yellow) and 50 parts of glucose and heat
carefully with continued stirring, to complete solution; replace the
evaporated water and pour through flannel.
The glue made in this way remains clear quite a long time, and
possesses great adhesive power; it also dries very quickly, but upon
careless and extended heating above 90° C. (194° F.), it is apt to turn
brown and brittle.
IV.—Pour 50 parts of warm (not hot) water over 50 parts of Cologne glue
and allow to soak over night. Next day the swelled glue is dissolved
with moderate heat, and if still too thick, a little more water is
added. When this is done, add from 2 1/2 to 3 parts of crude nitric
acid, stir well, and fill the liquid glue in well-corked bottles. This
is a good liquid steam glue.
V.—Soak 1 pound of good glue in a quart of water for a few hours, then
melt the glue by heating it, together with the unabsorbed water, then
stir in 1/4 pound dry white lead, and when that is well mixed pour in
4 fluidounces of alcohol and continue the boiling 5 minutes longer.
VI.—Soak 1 pound of good glue in 1 1/2 pints of cold water for
5 hours, then add 3 ounces of zinc sulphate and 2 fluidounces of
hydrochloric acid, and keep the mixture heated for 10 or 12 hours at
175° to 190° F. The glue remains liquid and may be used for sticking a
variety of materials.
VII.—A very inexpensive liquid glue may be prepared by first soaking
and then dissolving gelatin in twice its own weight of water at a very
gentle heat; then add glacial acetic acid in weight equal to the weight
of the dry gelatin. It should be remembered, however, that all acid
glues are not generally applicable.
VIII.—Glue 200 parts
Dilute acetic acid 400 parts
Dissolve by the aid of heat and add:
Alcohol 25 parts
Alum 5 parts
IX.—Glue 5 parts
Calcium chloride 1 part
Water 1 part
X.—Sugar of lead 1 1/2 drachms
Alum 1 1/2 drachms
Gum arabic 2 1/2 drachms
Wheat flour 1 av. lb.
Water, q. s.
Dissolve the gum in 2 quarts of warm water; when cold mix in the flour,
and add the sugar of lead and alum dissolved in water; heat the whole
over a slow fire until it shows signs of ebullition. Let it cool, and
add enough gum water to bring it to the proper consistence.
XI.—Dilute 1 part of official phosphoric acid with 2 parts of water and
neutralize the solution with carbonate of ammonium. Add to the liquid
an equal quantity of water, warm it on a water bath, and dissolve in it
sufficient glue to form a thick syrupy liquid. Keep in well-stoppered
bottles.
XII.—Dissolve 3 parts of glue in small pieces in 12 to 15 of saccharate
of lime. By heating, the glue dissolves rapidly and remains liquid,
when cold, without loss of adhesive power. Any desirable consistence
can be secured by varying the amount of saccharate of lime. Thick
glue retains its muddy color, while a thin solution becomes clear on
standing.
The saccharate of lime is prepared by {12} dissolving 1 part of sugar
in 3 parts of water, and after adding 1/4 part of the weight of the
sugar of slaked lime, heating the whole from 149° to 185° F., allowing
it to macerate for several days, shaking it frequently. The solution,
which has the properties of mucilage, is then decanted from the
sediment.
XIII.—In a solution of borax in water soak a good quantity of glue
until it has thoroughly imbibed the liquid. Pour off the surplus
solution and then put on the water bath and melt the glue. Cool down
until the glue begins to set, then add, drop by drop, with agitation,
enough acetic acid to check the tendency to solidification. If, after
becoming quite cold, there is still a tendency to solidification, add a
few drops more of the acid. The liquid should be of the consistence of
ordinary mucilage at all times.
XIV.—Gelatin 100 parts
Cabinetmakers’ glue 100 parts
Alcohol 25 parts
Alum 2 parts
Acetic acid, 20 per cent 800 parts
Soak the gelatin and glue with the acetic acid and heat on a water bath
until fluid; then add the alum and alcohol.
XV.—Glue 10 parts
Water 15 parts
Sodium salicylate 1 part
XVI.—Soak 5 parts of Cologne glue in an aqueous calcium chloride
solution (1:4) and heat on the water bath until dissolved, replacing
the evaporating water; or slack 100 parts of lime with 150 parts of hot
water, dissolve 60 parts of sugar in 180 parts of water, and add 15
parts of the slacked lime to the solution, heating the whole to 75° C.
(167° F.). Place aside for a few days, shaking from time to time. In
the clear sugar-lime solution collected by decanting soak 60 parts of
glue and assist the solution by moderate heating.
XVII.—Molasses, 100 parts, dissolved in 300 parts of water, 25 parts
of quicklime (slaked to powder), being then stirred in and the
mixture heated to 167° F. on a water bath, with frequent stirrings.
After settling for a few days a large portion of the lime will have
dissolved, and the clear, white, thick solution, when decanted, behaves
like rubber solution and makes a highly adherent coating.
XVIII.—Dissolve bone glue, 250 parts, by heating in 1,000 parts of
water, and add to the solution barium peroxide 10 parts, sulphuric acid
(66° B.) 5 parts, and water 15 parts. Heat for 48 hours on the water
bath to 80° C. (176° F.). Thus a syrupy liquid is obtained, which is
allowed to settle and is then decanted. This glue has no unpleasant
odor, and does not mold.
XIX.—A glue possessing the adhesive qualities of ordinary joiners’
glue, but constituting a pale yellow liquid which is ready for use
without requiring heating and possesses great resistance to dampness,
is produced by treating dry casein with a diluted borax solution or
with enough ammonia solution to cause a faintly alkaline reaction. The
preparation may be employed alone or mixed with liquid starch in any
proportion.
«Glue for Celluloid.»—I.—Two parts shellac, 3 parts spirits of camphor,
and 4 parts strong alcohol dissolved in a warm place, give an excellent
gluing agent to fix wood, tin, and other bodies to celluloid. The glue
must be kept well corked up.
II.—A collodion solution may be used, or an alcoholic solution of fine
celluloid shavings.
«Glue to Form Paper Pads.»—
I.—Glue 3 1/2 ounces
Glycerine 8 ounces
Water, a sufficient quantity.
Pour upon the glue more than enough water to cover it and let stand for
several hours, then decant the greater portion of the water; apply heat
until the glue is dissolved, and add the glycerin. If the mixture is
too thick, add more water.
II.—Glue 6 ounces
Alum 30 grains
Acetic acid 1/2 ounce
Alcohol 1 1/2 ounces
Water 6 1/2 ounces
Mix all but the alcohol, digest on a water bath till the glue is
dissolved, allow to cool and add the alcohol.
III.—Glue 5 ounces
Water 1 ounce
Calcium chloride 1 ounce
Dissolve the calcium chloride in the water, add the glue, macerate
until it is thoroughly softened, and then heat until completely
dissolved.
IV.—Glue 20 ounces
Glycerine 5 ounces
Syrupy glucose 1 ounce
Tannin 50 grains
Cover the glue with cold water, and let stand over night. In the
morning pour off superfluous water, throw the glue on muslin, and
manipulate so as to get rid of as much moisture as possible, then put
in a water bath and melt. Add the {13} glycerine and syrup, and stir
well in. Finally, dissolve the tannin in the smallest quantity of water
possible and add.
This mixture must be used hot.
V.—Glue 15 ounces
Glycerine 5 ounces
Linseed oil 2 ounces
Sugar 1 ounce
Soak the glue as before, melt, add the sugar and glycerine, continuing
the heat, and finally add the oil gradually under constant stirring.
This must be used hot.
«Glue for Tablets.»—
I.—Glue 3 1/2 ounces
Glycerine 8 ounces
Water, a sufficient quantity.
Pour upon the glue more than enough water to cover it and let stand for
several hours, then decant the greater portion of the water; apply heat
until the glue is dissolved, and add the glycerine. If the mixture is
too thick, add more water.
II.—Glue 6 ounces
Alum 30 grains
Acetic acid 1/2 ounce
Alcohol 1 1/2 ounces
Water 6 1/2 ounces
Mix all but the alcohol, digest on a water bath till the glue is
dissolved, allow to cool and add the alcohol.
III.—Glue 5 ounces
Water 1 ounce
Calcium chloride 1 ounce
Dissolve the calcium chloride in the water, add the glue, macerate
until it is thoroughly softened, and then apply heat until completely
dissolved.
IV.—Glue, 1 pound; glycerine, 4 ounces; glucose syrup, 2
tablespoonfuls; tannin, 1/10 ounce. Use warm, and give an hour to dry
and set on the pads. This can be colored with any aniline dye.
«Marine Glue.»—Marine glue is a product consisting of shellac and
caoutchouc, which is mixed differently according to the use for which
it is required. The quantity of benzol used as solvent governs the
hardness or softness of the glue.
I.—One part Pará caoutchouc is dissolved in 12 parts benzol; 20
parts powdered shellac are added to the solution, and the mixture is
carefully heated.
II.—Stronger glue is obtained by dissolving 10 parts good crude
caoutchouc in 120 parts benzine or naphtha which solution is poured
slowly and in a fine stream into 20 parts asphaltum melted in a kettle,
stirring constantly and heating. Pour the finished glue, after the
solvent has almost evaporated and the mass has become quite uniform,
into flat molds, in which it solidifies into very hard tablets of dark
brown or black color. For use, these glue tablets are first soaked in
boiling water and then heated over a free flame until the marine glue
has become thinly liquid. The pieces to be glued are also warmed and a
very durable union is obtained.
III.—Cut caoutchouc into small pieces and dissolve in coal naphtha by
heat and agitation. Add to this solution powdered shellac, and heat
the whole, constantly stirring until combination takes place, then pour
it on metal plates to form sheets. When used it must be heated to 248°
F., and applied with a brush.
«Water-Proof Glues.»—I.—The glue is put in water till it is soft, and
subsequently melted in linseed oil at moderate heat. This glue is
affected neither by water nor by vapors.
II.—Dissolve a small quantity of sandarac and mastic in a little
alcohol, and add a little turpentine. The solution is boiled in a
kettle over the fire, and an equal quantity of a strong hot solution of
glue and isinglass is added. Then filter through a cloth while hot.
III.—Water-proof glue may also be produced by the simple addition of
bichromate of potassium to the liquid glue solution, and subsequent
exposure to the air.
IV.—Mix glue as usual, and then add linseed oil in the proportion of
1 part oil to 8 parts glue. If it is desired that the mixture remain
liquid, 1/2 ounce of nitric acid should be added to every pound of
glue. This will also prevent the glue from souring.
V.—In 1,000 parts of rectified alcohol dissolve 60 parts of sandarac
and as much mastic whereupon add 60 parts of white oil of turpentine.
Next, prepare a rather strong glue solution and add about the like
quantity of isinglass, heating the solution until it commences to boil;
then slowly add the hot glue solution till a thin paste forms, which
can still be filtered through a cloth. Heat the solution before use and
employ like ordinary glue. A connection effected with this glue is not
dissolved by cold water and even resists hot water for a long time.
VI.—Soak 1,000 parts of Cologne glue in cold water for 12 hours and in
another vessel for the same length of time 150 parts of isinglass in a
mixture of lamp spirit and water. Then dissolve both masses together on
the water bath in a suitable vessel, thinning, if necessary, with some
hot water. Next add 100 {14} parts of linseed oil varnish and filter
hot through linen.
VII.—Ordinary glue is kept in water until it swells up without losing
its shape. Thus softened it is placed in an iron crucible without
adding water; then add linseed oil according to the quantity of the
glue and leave this mixture to boil over a slow fire until a gelatinous
mass results. Such glue unites materials in a very durable manner. It
adheres firmly and hardens quickly. Its chief advantage, however,
consists in that it neither absorbs water nor allows it to pass
through, whereby the connecting places are often destroyed. A little
borax will prevent putrefaction.
VIII.—Bichromate of potassium 40 parts (by weight); gelatin glue, 55
parts; alum, 5 parts. Dissolve the glue in a little water and add the
bichromate of potassium and the alum.
IX.—This preparation permits an absolutely permanent gluing of pieces
of cardboard, even when they are moistened by water. Melt together
equal parts of good pitch and gutta-percha; of this take 9 parts, and
add to it 3 parts of boiled linseed oil and 1 1/2 parts of litharge.
Place this over the fire and stir it till all the ingredients are
intimately mixed. The mixture may be diluted with a little benzine or
oil of turpentine, and must be warm when used.
«Glue to Fasten Linoleum on Iron Stairs.»—I.—Use a mixture of glue,
isinglass, and dextrin which, dissolved in water and heated, is given
an admixture of turpentine. The strips pasted down must be weighted
with boards and brick on top until the adhesive agent has hardened.
II.—Soak 3 parts of glue in 8 parts water, add 1/2 part hydrochloric
acid and 3/4 part zinc vitriol and let this mixture boil several
hours. Coat the floor and the back of the linoleum with this. Press the
linoleum down uniformly and firmly and weight it for some time.
«Glue for Attaching Gloss to Precious Metals.»—Sandarac varnish, 15
parts; marine glue, 5 parts; drying oil, 5 parts; white lead, 5 parts;
Spanish white, 5 parts; turpentine, 5 parts. Triturate all to form a
rather homogeneous paste. This glue becomes very hard and resisting.
«Elastic Glue.»—Although elastic glue is less durable than rubber,
and will not stand much heat, yet it is cheaper than rubber, and is
not, like rubber affected by oil colors. Hence it is largely used for
printing rollers and stamps. For stamps, good glue is soaked for 24
hours in soft water. The water is poured off, and the swollen glue is
melted and mixed with glycerine and a little salicylic acid and cast
into molds. The durability is increased by painting the mass with a
solution of tannin, or, better, of bichromate of potassium. Printing
rollers require greater firmness and elasticity. The mass for them
once consisted solely of glue and vinegar, and their manufacture was
very difficult. The use of glycerine has remedied this, and gives
great elasticity without adhesiveness, and has removed the liability
of moldiness. Swollen glue, which has been superficially dried, is
fused with glycerine and cast into oil molds. Similar mixtures are
used for casting plaster ornaments, etc., and give very sharp casts.
A mass consisting of glue and glycerine is poured over the model in a
box. When the mold is removed, it is painted with plaster outside and
with boiled oil inside, and can then be used many times for making
reproductions of the model.
«Glue for Paper and Metal.»—A glue which will keep well and adhere
tightly is obtained by diluting 1,000 parts by weight of potato starch
in 1,200 parts by weight of water and adding 50 parts by weight of
pure nitric acid. The mixture is kept in a hot place for 48 hours,
taking care to stir frequently. It is afterwards boiled to a thick and
transparent consistency, diluted with water if there is occasion, and
then there are added in the form of a screened powder, 2 parts of sal
ammoniac and 1 part of sulphur flowers.
«Glue for Attaching Cloth Strips to Iron.»—Soak 500 parts of Cologne
glue in the evening with clean cold water in a clean vessel; in the
morning pour off the water, place the softened glue without admixture
of water into a clean copper or enamel receptacle, which is put on a
moderate low fire (charcoal or steam apparatus). During the dissolution
the mass must be continually stirred with a wooden trowel or spatula.
If the glue is too thick, it is thinned with diluted spirit, but not
with water. As soon as the glue has reached the boiling point, about
50 parts of linseed oil varnish (boiled oil) is added to the mass with
constant stirring. When the latter has been stirred up well, add 50
parts of powdered colophony and shake it into the mass with stirring,
subsequently removing the glue from the fire. In order to increase the
binding qualities and to guard against moisture, it is well still to
add about 50 parts of isinglass, which has been previously cut {15}
into narrow strips and placed, well beaten, in a vessel, into which
enough spirit of wine has been poured to cover all. When dissolved, the
last-named mass is added to the boiling glue with constant stirring.
The adhesive agent is now ready for use and is employed hot, it
being advisable to warm the iron also. Apply glue only to a surface
equivalent to a single strip at a time. The strips are pressed down
with a stiff brush or a wad of cloth.
«Glue for Leather or Cardboard.»—To attach leather to cardboard
dissolve good glue (softened by spelling in water) with a little
turpentine and enough water in an ordinary glue pot, and then having
made a thick paste with starch in the proportion of 2 parts by weight,
of starch powder for every 1 part, by weight, of dry glue, mix the
compounds and allow the mixture to become cold before application to
the cardboard.
«For Wood, Glass, Cardboard, and all Articles of a Metallic or Mineral
Character.»—Take boiled linseed oil 20 parts, Flemish glue 20 parts,
hydrated lime 15 parts, powdered turpentine 5 parts, alum 5 parts
acetic acid 5 parts. Dissolve the glue with the acetic acid, add the
alum, then the hydrated lime, and finally the turpentine and the boiled
linseed oil. Triturate all well until it forms a homogeneous paste and
keep in well-closed flasks. Use like any other glue.
«Glue for Uniting Metals with Fabrics.»—Cologne glue of good quality
is soaked and boiled down to the consistency of that used by
cabinetmakers. Then add, with constant stirring, sifted wood ashes
until a moderately thick, homogeneous mass results. Use hot and press
the pieces well together during the drying. For tinfoil, about 2 per
cent of boracic acid should be added instead of the wood ashes.
«Glue or Paste for Making Paper Boxes.»—
Chloral hydrate 5 parts
Gelatin, white 8 parts
Gum arabic 2 parts
Boiling water 30 parts
Mix the chloral, gelatin, and gum arabic in a porcelain container, pour
the boiling water over the mixture and let stand for 1 day, giving it
a vigorous stirring several times during the day. In cold weather this
is apt to get hard and stiff, but this may be obviated by standing the
container in warm water for a few minutes. This paste adheres to any
surface whatever.
«Natural Glue for Cementing Porcelain, Crystal Glass, etc.»—The large
shell snails which are found in vineyards have at the extremity of
their body a small, whitish bladder filled with a substance of greasy
and gelatinous aspect. If this substance extracted from the bladder
is applied on the fragments of porcelain or any body whatever, which
are juxtaposed by being made to touch at all parts, they acquire such
adhesion that if one strives to separate them by a blow, they are
more liable to break at another place than the cemented seam. It is
necessary to give this glue sufficient time to dry perfectly, so as to
permit it to acquire the highest degree of strength and tenacity.
«Belt Glue.»—A glue for belts can be prepared as follows: Soak 50
parts of gelatin in water, pour off the excess of water, and heat on
the water bath. With good stirring add, first, 5 parts, by weight, of
glycerine, then 10 parts, by weight, of turpentine, and 5 parts, by
weight, of linseed oil varnish and thin with water as required. The
ends of the belts to be glued are cut off obliquely and warmed; then
the hot glue is applied, and the united parts are subjected to strong
pressure, allowing them to dry thus for 24 hours before the belts are
used.
«Chromium Glue for Wood, Paper, and Cloth.»—I.—(_a_) One-half pound
strong glue (any glue if color is immaterial, white fish glue
otherwise); soak 12 hours in 12 fluidounces of cold water. (_b_)
One-quarter pound gelatin; soak 2 hours in 12 fluidounces cold water.
(_c_) Two ounces bichromate of potassium dissolved in 8 fluidounces
boiling water. Dissolve (_a_) after soaking, in a glue pot, and add
(_b_). After (_a_) and (_b_) are mixed and dissolved, stir in (_c_).
This glue is exceedingly strong, and if the article cemented be exposed
to strong sunlight for 1 hour, the glue becomes perfectly waterproof.
Of course, it is understood that the exposure to sunlight is to be made
after the glue is thoroughly dry. The one objectionable feature of this
cement is its color, which is a yellow-brown. By substituting chrome
alum in place of the bichromate, an olive color is obtained.
II.—Use a moderately strong gelatin solution (containing 5 to 10
per cent of dry gelatin), to which about 1 part of acid chromate of
potassium in solution is added to every 5 parts of gelatin. This
mixture has the property of becoming insoluble by water through the
action of sunlight under partial reduction of the chromic acid. {16}
«Fireproof Glue.»—
Raw linseed oil 8 parts
Glue or gelatin 1 part
Quicklime 2 parts
Soak the glue or gelatin in the oil for 10 to 12 hours, and then melt
it by gently heating the oil, and when perfectly fluid stir in the
quicklime until the whole mass is homogeneous, then spread out in
layers to dry gradually, out of the sun’s rays. For use, reheat the
glue in a glue pot in the ordinary way of melting glue.
«CEMENTS.»
Under this heading will be found only cements for causing one substance
to adhere to another. Cements used primarily as fillers, such as dental
cements, will be found under Cements, Putties, etc.
«Cutlers’ Cements for Fixing Knife Blades into Handles.»—
I.—Rosin 4 pounds
Beeswax 1 pound
Plaster of Paris or brickdust 1 pound
II.—Pitch 5 pounds
Wood ashes 1 pound
Tallow 1 pound
III.—Rosin, 12; sulphur flowers, 3; iron filings, 5. Melt together,
fill the handle while hot, and insert the instrument.
IV.—Plaster of Paris is ordinarily used for fastening loose handles.
It is made into a moderately thick paste with water run into the hole
in the head of the pestle, the handle inserted and held in place till
the cement hardens. Some add sand to the paste, and claim to get better
results.
V.—Boil together 1 part of caustic soda, 3 parts of rosin, and 5 parts
of water till homogeneous and add 4 parts of plaster of Paris. The
paste sets in half an hour and is but little affected by water.
VI.—Equal quantities of gutta percha and shellac are melted together
and well stirred. This is best done in an iron capsule placed on a
sandbath and heated over a gas furnace or on the top of a stove. The
combination possesses both hardness and toughness, qualities that make
it particularly desirable in mending mortars and pestles. In using, the
articles to be cemented should be warmed to about the melting point of
the mixture and retained in proper position until cool, when they are
ready for use.
VII.—Rosin 600 parts by weight
Sulphur 150 parts by weight
Iron filings 250 parts by weight
Pour the mixture, hot, into the opening of the heated handle and shove
in the knife likewise heated.
VIII.—Melt sufficient black rosin, and incorporate thoroughly with it
one-fifth its weight of very fine silver sand. Make the pestle hot,
pour in a little of the mixture, then force the handle well home, and
set aside for a day before using.
IX.—Make a smooth, moderately soft paste with litharge and glycerine;
fill the hole in the pestle with the cement, and firmly press the
handle in place, keeping it under pressure for three or four days.
«Cements for Stone.»—I.—An excellent cement for broken marble consists
of 4 parts of gypsum and 1 part of finely powdered gum arabic. Mix
intimately. Then with a cold solution of borax make into a mortarlike
mass. Smear on each face of the parts to be joined, and fasten the bits
of marble together. In the course of a few days the cement becomes
very hard and holds very tenaciously. The object mended should not be
touched for several days. In mending colored marbles the cement may be
given the hue of the marble by adding the color to the borax solution.
II.—A cement which dries instantaneously, qualifying it for all sorts
of repairing and only presenting the disadvantage of having to be
freshly prepared each time, notwithstanding any subsequent heating, may
be made as follows: In a metal vessel or iron spoon melt 4 to 5 parts
of rosin (or preferably mastic) and 1 part of beeswax. This mixture
must be applied rapidly, it being of advantage slightly to heat the
surfaces to be united, which naturally must have been previously well
cleaned.
III.—Slaked lime, 10 parts; chalk, 15 parts; kaolin, 5 parts; mix, and
immediately before use stir with a corresponding amount of potash water
glass.
IV.—Cement on Marble Slabs.—The whole marble slab is thoroughly warmed
and laid face down upon a neatly cleaned planing bench upon which a
woolen cloth is spread so as not to injure the polish of the slab. Next
apply to the slab very hot, weak glue and quickly sift hot plaster of
Paris on the glue in a thin even layer, stirring the plaster rapidly
into the applied glue by means of a strong spatula, so that a uniform
glue-plaster coating is formed on the warm slab. Before this has time
to harden tip the respective piece of furniture on the slab. The frame,
likewise warmed, will adhere very firmly to the slab after two days.
Besides, this process has the advantage of great cleanliness. {17}
V.—The following is a recipe used by marble workers, and which probably
can be used to advantage: Flour of sulphur, 1 part; hydrochlorate of
ammonia, 2 parts; iron filings, 16 parts. The above substances must
be reduced to a powder, and securely preserved in closely stoppered
vessels. When the cement is to be employed, take 20 parts very fine
iron filings and 1 part of the above powder; mix them together with
enough water to form a manageable paste. This paste solidifies in 20
days and becomes as hard as iron. A recipe for another cement useful
for joining small pieces of marble or alabaster is as follows: Add
1/2 pint of vinegar to 1/2 pint skimmed milk; mix the curd with the
whites of 5 eggs, well beaten, and sufficient powdered quicklime sifted
in with constant stirring so as to form a paste. It resists water and a
moderate degree of heat.
VI.—Cement for Iron and Marble.—For fastening iron to marble or stone a
good cement is made as follows: Thirty parts plaster of Paris, 10 parts
iron filings, 1/2 part sal ammoniac mixed with vinegar to a fluid
paste fresh for use.
«Cement for Sandstones.»—One part sulphur and 1 part rosin are melted
separately; the melted masses are mixed and 3 parts litharge and 2
parts ground glass stirred in. The latter ingredients must be perfectly
dry, and have been well pulverized and mixed previously.
Equally good cement is obtained by melting together 1 part pitch and
1/10 part wax, and mixing with 2 parts brickdust.
The stones to be cemented, or between the joints of which the putty
is to be poured, must be perfectly dry. If practicable, they should
be warmed a little, and the surfaces to which the putty is to adhere
painted with oil varnish once or twice. The above two formulæ are of
especial value in case the stones are very much exposed to the heat
of the sun in summer, as well as to cold, rain, and snow in winter.
Experience has shown that in these instances the above-mentioned
cements give better satisfaction than the other brands of cement.
«Cements for Attaching Objects to Glass.»—
Rosin 1 part
Yellow wax 2 parts
Melt together.
«To Attach Copper to Glass.»—Boil 1 part of caustic soda and 3 parts of
colophony in 5 parts of water and mix with the like quantity of plaster
of Paris. This cement is not attacked by water, heat, and petroleum.
If, in place of the plaster of Paris, zinc white, white lead, or slaked
lime is used, the cement hardens more slowly.
«To Fasten Brass upon Glass.»—Boil together 1 part of caustic soda, 3
parts of rosin, 3 parts of gypsum, and 5 parts of water. The cement
made in this way hardens in about half an hour, hence it must
be applied quickly. During the preparation it should be stirred
constantly. All the ingredients used must be in a finely powdered state.
«Uniting Glass with Horn.»—(1) A solution of 2 parts of gelatin in
20 parts water is evaporated up to one-sixth of its volume and 1/3
mastic dissolved in 1/2 spirit added and some zinc white stirred in.
The putty is applied warm; it dries easily and can be kept a long time.
(2) Mix gold size with the equal volume of water glass.
«To Cement Glass to Iron.»—
I.—Rosin 5 ounces
Yellow wax 1 ounce
Venetian red 1 ounce
Melt the wax and rosin on a water bath and add, under constant
stirring, the Venetian red previously well dried. Stir until nearly
cool, so as to prevent the Venetian red from settling to the bottom.
II.—Portland cement 2 ounces
Prepared chalk 1 ounce
Fine sand 1 ounce
Solution of sodium silicate
enough to form a semi-liquid
paste.
III.—Litharge 2 parts
White lead 1 part
Work into a pasty condition by using 3 parts boiled linseed oil, 1 part
copal varnish.
«Celluloid Cements.»—I.—To mend broken draughting triangles and other
celluloid articles, use 3 parts alcohol and 4 parts ether mixed
together and applied to the fracture with a brush until the edges
become warm. The edges are then stuck together, and left to dry for at
least 24 hours.
II.—Camphor, 1 part; alcohol, 4 parts. Dissolve and add equal quantity
(by weight) of shellac to this solution.
III.—If firmness is desired in putting celluloid on wood, tin, etc.,
the following gluing agent is recommended, viz.: A compound of 2 parts
shellac, 3 parts spirit of camphor, and 4 parts strong alcohol. {18}
IV.—Shellac 2 ounces
Spirits of camphor 2 ounces
Alcohol, 90 per cent 6 to 8 ounces
V.—Make a moderately strong glue or solution of gelatin. In a dark
place or a dark room mix with the above a small amount of concentrated
solution of potassium dichromate. Coat the back of the label, which
must be clean, with a thin layer of the mixture. Strongly press the
label against the bottle and keep the two in close contact by tying
with twine or otherwise. Expose to sunlight for some hours; this causes
the cement to be insoluble even in hot water.
VI.—Lime av. oz. 1
White of egg av. oz. 2 1/2
Plaster of Paris av. oz. 5 1/2
Water fl. oz. 1
Reduce the lime to a fine powder; mix it with the white of egg by
trituration, forming a uniform paste. Dilute with water, rapidly
incorporate the plaster of Paris, and use the cement immediately. The
surfaces to be cemented must first be moistened with water so that the
cement will readily adhere. The pieces must be firmly pressed together
and kept in this position for about 12 hours.
«Cementing Celluloid and Hard-Rubber Articles.»—I.—Celluloid articles
can be mended by making a mixture composed of 3 parts of alcohol and 4
parts of ether. This mixture should be kept in a well-corked bottle,
and when celluloid articles are to be mended, the broken surfaces are
painted over with the alcohol and ether mixture until the surfaces
soften: then press together and bind and allow to dry for at least 24
hours.
II.—Dissolve 1 part of gum camphor in 4 parts of alcohol; dissolve an
equal weight of shellac in such strong camphor solution. The cement
is applied warm and the parts united must not be disturbed until the
cement is hard. Hard-rubber articles are never mended to form a strong
joint.
III.—Melt together equal parts of gutta percha and real asphaltum. The
cement is applied hot, and the broken surfaces pressed together and
held in place while cooling.
«Sign-Letter Cements.»—
I.—Copal varnish 15 parts
Drying oil 5 parts
Turpentine (spirits) 3 parts
Oil of turpentine 2 parts
Liquefied glue 5 parts
Melt all together on a water bath until well mixed, and then add 10
parts slaked lime.
II.—Mix 100 parts finely powdered white litharge with 50 parts dry
white lead, knead together 3 parts linseed oil varnish and 1 part copal
varnish into a firm dough. Coat the side to be attached with this,
removing the superfluous cement. It will dry quickly and become very
hard.
III.—Copal varnish 15 parts
Linseed-oil varnish 5 parts
Raw turpentine 3 parts
Oil of turpentine 2 parts
Carpenters’ glue, dissolved in water 5 parts
Precipitated chalk 10 parts
IV.—Mastic gum 1 part
Litharge, lead 2 parts
White lead 1 part
Linseed oil 3 parts
Melt together to a homogeneous mass. Apply hot. To make a thorough and
reliable job, the letters should be heated to at least the temperature
of the cement.
«To Fix Gold Letters, etc., upon Glass.»—I.—The glass must be entirely
clean and polished, and the medium is prepared in the following manner:
One ounce fish glue or isinglass is dissolved in water so that the
latter covers the glue. When this is dissolved a quart of rectified
spirit of wine is added, and enough water is poured in to make up
one-quarter the whole. The substance must be kept well corked.
II.—Take 1/2 quart of the best rum and 1/4 ounce fish glue, which
is dissolved in the former at a moderate degree of heat. Then add 1/2
quart distilled water, and filter through a piece of old linen. The
glass is laid upon a perfectly level table and is covered with this
substance to the thickness of 1/8 inch, using a clean brush. Seize
the gold leaf with a pointed object and place it smoothly upon the
prepared mass, and it will be attracted by the glass at once. After 5
minutes hold the glass slightly slanting so that the superfluous mass
can run off, and leave the plate in this position for 24 hours, when
it will be perfectly dry. Now trace the letters or the design on a
piece of paper, and perforate the lines with a thick needle, making
the holes 1/16 inch apart. Then place the perforated paper upon the
surface of the glass, and stamp the tracery on with powdered chalk.
The paper pattern is then carefully removed, and the accurate design
will remain upon the gold. The outlines are now filled out with an oily
gold mass, mixed with a little chrome orange and diluted with boiled
oil or turpentine. When all is dry the superfluous gold is washed off
{19} with water by means of a common rag. The back of the glass is then
painted with a suitable color.
«Attaching Enamel Letters to Glass.»—To affix enamel letters to glass,
first clean the surface of the glass perfectly, leaving no grease or
sticky substance of any kind adhering to the surface. Then with a piece
of soap sketch the outlines of the design. Make the proper division
of the guide lines, and strike off accurately the position each letter
is to occupy. Then to the back of the letters apply a cement made as
follows: White lead ground in oil, 2 parts; dry white lead, 3 parts.
Mix to a soft putty consistency with good copal varnish.