Plaster is almost a necessity to the potter and therefore something
should be learned about it. Even if one does not use molds there are
numberless purposes for which plaster is convenient. For stiffening slip
into clay, and for absorbing water from glazes, shallow dishes of
plaster are used, and for holding work either in making or drying,
plaster bats or round slabs are always in demand.
It is best to purchase the finest quality of potters' plaster by the
barrel.[E] It will keep indefinitely if stored in a dry place. The
necessary appliances are:
One or two large jugs for mixing, or a metal can with a spout.
A metal spider or frying pan.
Six feet of rubber machine belting, six inches wide, or similar strips
cut from linoleum or enameled cloth.
Two or three thin pieces of steel of various degrees of flexibility
(scrapers).
Handy knives, called vegetable knives.
A small painter's brush.
Two or three fine sponges.
[E] Calvin Tomkins, 30 Church Street, New York City.
To begin with, a size of soft soap and water is prepared. Put a quart of
water into a kettle and add a piece of soap the size of an egg.[F]
Simmer for an hour or until the soap is entirely dissolved and then set
aside to cool. When cold the size should be of the consistency of maple
syrup. This size is used whenever plaster is to be kept from sticking to
a form or surface, and it has also the merit of causing clay to stick to
plaster. For example, if a mold is to be taken from a clay model no size
should be used, but if a plaster form is used as a foundation for clay
ornament it should be well sized first. The size is laid on with a brush
and wiped off with a sponge. Another sponge is then used with clean
water and the sized surface is washed, all superfluous water being
removed. Size is then applied a second time and washed off as before. A
third application is sometimes necessary, or until the sized surface
rejects water like grease does. On the last sizing, water is not
applied, but the surface is polished with the sponge containing size. If
the surface to be prepared be of wood or metal a single coat of size
will often suffice, but if it be of plaster three or four applications
are often necessary.
[F] Any good laundry soap will serve, but it should be sliced thin.
The first lesson may well be the manufacture of a plaster bat. The
frying pan is first sized and set upon a level table. Let us suppose
that a quart of water will fill it to about an inch in depth. This
amount of water is put into a jug and two pounds and three-quarters of
dry plaster is weighed out and allowed to trickle through the fingers
into the water. This proportion has been found to be best for ordinary
mixings. A smaller quantity of plaster to the quart of water will result
in a very soft bat; a larger quantity will be proportionately harder.
After the plaster has soaked up all the water it will take, that is in
about two minutes' time, the hand is plunged in and the whole stirred to
a smooth cream. All lumps must be broken up and the air bubbles removed
as far as possible. Continue stirring gently and presently the mixture
will be felt to grow thicker. The psychological moment arrives when the
plaster forms upon the hand a white coating which cannot be shaken off.
The creamy liquid is then poured into the frying pan which is gently
shaken to level the surface.
If the plaster has been poured at the right moment it will set smoothly
with a mat surface like sugar icing. If poured too late it will be stiff
and difficult to level, and if poured too soon it will curdle on the
surface and water will be seen above the plaster. A little practice will
show the right moment. The jug should be washed out immediately while
the plaster is soft. In the place used for plaster work a tub should be
provided in which all vessels and tools can be washed, for, if allowed
to flow down the waste pipe of a sink, the plaster will speedily choke
the outflow.
After standing for some ten minutes, more or less, the bat in the frying
pan will grow warm. This is the sign of a combination between the
plaster and the water and shows the completion of the setting. The pan
is now taken by the handle and, holding it upside down, the edge is
rapped smartly on a brick or stone. This will cause the contents to fall
out and there is a smooth disc which is one of the most useful of
appliances. The edge will need to be scraped and the bat can be set
aside until needed. It will be good practice to make a half dozen of
these.
This process of mixing and pouring plaster is the same for all
operations and the instructions will not be repeated, but when the
student is told to "pour plaster" it will be presumed that this
experiment has already been made.
[Illustration: Fig. 1. _A_, table. _B_, clay mound. _C_, plaster. _D_,
rubber belt.]
The next step is the making of a plaster bowl or dish for the purpose of
drying out slip or glaze. A convenient size should be determined upon as
it is best to have all the dishes the same. Upon any flat, smooth
surface a mound of clay is reared which shall be the size and depth of
the inside of the proposed dish. About twelve inches in diameter and
three inches deep is a good size, though fourteen inches is not too
large for the former dimension. This mound should be made as nearly
circular as possible and the clay finished as smoothly as may be. The
rubber belt is then set around the mound in the form of a hoop leaving a
space of two inches between the clay mound and the rubber hoop. The
rubber is fastened either by tying with string or by binding the
overlapping ends with clothes pins. A roll of soft clay is laid down
where the belt joins the table and pressed down outside to prevent
leakage. Enough plaster to fill the space within the belt is now mixed
and poured, covering the clay mound to a depth of at least one inch.
When the plaster has set the rubber is detached, the whole turned over
and the clay dug out. We have now a circular plaster dish three inches
deep but we have only one. The trouble of rebuilding the clay is
unnecessary a second time because a "case" or reverse can be made from
which as many dishes as may be necessary can be formed.
[Illustration: Fig. 2. _C_, plaster dish. _D_, rubber belt. _E_, plaster
case or reverse.]
[Illustration: Fig. 3. Plaster case, with rubber belt, arranged for
pouring.]
The dish is carefully smoothed and trimmed. The sharp edge is removed
and the inside is dressed with fine sandpaper to a perfectly smooth
surface. Size is now applied to the inside and upper edge until a bright
slippery surface is obtained. The rubber belt is now bound closely
around the dish and plaster is poured to a depth of about one and
one-half inches on the edge. This, of course, makes a depth of four and
one-half inches in the center. When this new plaster has set in turn the
rubber is removed and the two castings can be easily separated by
inserting a knife at the junction. The knife should be gently driven in
with a hammer. Obviously it is now possible to make a number of dishes
from the reverse thus obtained, by simply binding the rubber belt around
each time and pouring plaster as at first. The original mold having been
sized is no longer absorbent but must be kept in case additional
reverses are needed. The molds or dishes must be thoroughly dried out
before being used.
The molding of a vase form is more elaborate but not really difficult.
Even if one does not intend to produce pottery by molding there is
always an advantage in having a number of simple forms upon which to
make experiments.
The vase to be molded is first drawn to exact size upon paper and a
plaster model is turned on a lathe. This can be done equally well on the
potters' wheel and the method is as follows: A plaster bat is saturated
with water and set upon the wheel so as to run true when the wheel is
revolved, and is cemented to the wheel head by a little slip. A few deep
scratches are made on the face of the bat and a cylinder, either of the
rubber belt or of stiff paper, is rolled up and set on end in the center
of the bat. The size of the cylinder should be a little larger every way
than the proposed vase. Plaster is now mixed and poured to fill the
cylinder. It will adhere to the bat below by reason of the scratches.
When the plaster has set, the cylinder is unfastened and removed and the
turning may begin. To turn plaster well involves a good deal of practice
but it is better to spoil three or four plaster cores in the learning
than to spend a long time on one for fear of damaging it.
[Illustration: Fig. 4. Turning tools for plaster.]
[Illustration: Fig. 5. Position of tool in turning. _A_, correct. _B_
and _C_, incorrect.]
The board support and turning stick described on page 100 are used in
turning plaster as well as clay. The turning stick is held in the left
hand and the point is pressed into the board. All this is, of course,
made ready before the plaster is poured. The turning tools are here
illustrated. They are not sold in the stores but can be made by any
machinist. The head or cutting blade consists of a flat piece of steel
through the center of which is a shaft or pin which is driven into a
handle. The head may be of any shape but the triangle and the circle
will meet every need. The tool is held in right hand and braced against
the turning stick, the stick and tool being moved together by raising or
lowering the left hand which holds the butt of the stick.
While the plaster is still soft the round tool is used and the rough
form is rapidly turned. Then as the setting of the plaster proceeds and
it is found to grow harder, the triangle tool should be used and the
shape gradually wrought out with the point. Finally by using the circle
tool for concave lines and an edge of the triangle tool for convex lines
the form is perfected. The surface is to be finished and the tool marks
removed by using, free hand, a flexible scraper which is bent by the
fingers and thumb to fit the lines of the form, and a final smoothing is
given by fine sandpaper, the wheel being revolved all the time. At the
top of the form a small cylindrical piece is left, called the "spare"
which represents the thickness of the mold substance, and for the bottom
a small piece is turned in the shape of a truncated cone. The small end
of this should be the same diameter as the base of the vase. These are
shown in the illustration (Fig. 6).
[Illustration: Fig. 6. Vase with foot piece and template. _A_, vase.
_B_, spare. _C_, foot piece. _D D_, templates. _N N N N_, natches.]
It will be obvious that in the directions given above the base of the
vase is not finished off and therefore the form must be cut off from the
bat, either by a knife or saw, and the base is then finished by hand, or
by setting the form upside down in a clay cradle--called a "chum"--and
turning the base true. The form is now ready for molding.
[Illustration: Fig. 7. End plates for mold. _E_, upper plate. _E'_,
lower plate. _N N_, natches.]
The plaster vase is laid upon its side on a piece of soft clay and a
thin bat or plaster slab is cut to fit the outline. This template should
fit with reasonable accuracy but need not be absolutely exact. A pair of
these will be required, one to fit each side of the form. These slabs or
sheets of plaster are always useful and if a sheet of glass is kept
handy any excess of plaster left from a mixing may be poured on to it.
This upon setting is easily detached and will present a smooth face
where it has rested on the glass. The pair of templates must include, in
their outline, both the spare and the foot piece but should not extend
beyond either of these. The outside diameter of the mold is now to be
determined and the templates cut to this dimension so that the two
together, with the vase between them, constitute a longitudinal section
of the mold.
The vase must now be divided accurately into two halves by a line
running from top to bottom. There are several ways of doing this. While
the form is still on the bat a diameter of the bat may be drawn and a
perpendicular erected from each end of this diameter. These
perpendicular lines will, of course, mark the center of the vase on each
side; or after the vase has been cut off another method is possible.
With a pair of dividers find the center of both the top and the bottom
of the vase. Mark each with a small hole or the point of a pencil. Now
lay the vase on its side on the clay cradle upon a glass sheet or other
level surface and raise or depress one end until the two centers are
exactly the same height from the glass. Take this height in the dividers
and, sliding one of the compass legs along the glass, gently scratch the
plaster vase with the other or upper point. If the two centers have been
accurately adjusted this scratch line will be the exact center of the
form.
Some soft clay is now built up on each side of the vase and the
templates are pressed down upon it, one on each side until the upper
face of each corresponds with the scratched line. The vase is now seen
to be buried as to one half in a plaster surface, and plaster poured on
this will give a half mold. There is yet, however, nothing to confine
the plaster and it would flow away as fast as poured. Two end plates are
necessary and these must rise in a half circle above the bed formed by
the templates. The part below may be of any shape but must be high
enough to cause the diameter of the half circle to coincide with the
plane of the templates. Two pieces of cardboard, wood, or rubber belt
are now bound to the sides, the apertures at the top and bottom, caused
by the curve of the end plates, are stopped with clay and the whole
presents the appearance of a vase, only half of which is visible, lying
in a shallow trough. All the fitting should be carefully done but the
tying up is not yet. The whole is now taken apart and well sized. Vase,
foot piece, templates and end pieces are all to be sized thoroughly in
the manner described. They are then put together again and bound around
with twine. It is necessary now to make provision for the proper fitting
of the halves of the mold. This is done by providing knobs and hollows
which fit together. These are technically known as "natches" and will be
referred to as such. Take two pieces of moderately stiff clay each about
the size of a cherry. Roll them into neat balls and cut them in two with
a thin knife. Lay each of the halves, flat side down, upon the
templates, two on each, placing them in pairs opposite to each other.
Affix two or more of these on the inner face of the bottom end plate.
Now mix and pour the plaster. This should be poured to the height of the
top of the end plates and, after pouring, shake this well down by
dipping the fingers into it, so that no bubbles may cling to the
surfaces below. As soon as the plaster has become firm but while it is
still soft remove the string and the side boards, pull off the pieces of
clay and with a straight, thin piece of wood scrape off the surplus of
plaster by following the line of the end plates and thus making a half
cylinder.
As soon as the plaster has become warm the whole may be turned over and
the templates and end plates removed. The four half spheres of clay will
be found embedded in the face of the plaster and these, being removed,
will leave four hemispherical depressions. The vase can now be gently
detached from its bed and the first half of the mold is completed. A
little dressing will be necessary. All overhanging edges and rough
places should be finished off and the hollow natches smoothed with a
piece of muslin on the end of a finger.
The second half is simple. Replace the vase in the half mold, set the
foot piece in its place, replace the end plates with the diameter on the
line as before but with the semi-circular edges upward, and set two or
three clay natches on the bottom one. Size, bind up, pour and scrape off
as before, thus completing the two halves of the mold in cylindrical
form. It only now remains to make the bottom for, at present, the mold
is open at both ends.
The two halves with the vase inside are bound very tightly together with
twine and set on the table bottom upwards. The clay natches in the
bottom are taken out and the hollows smoothed. The foot piece is taken
out and the rough places dressed. The bottom end of the vase is now
visible and this, together with the end of the mold, is sized. A strip
of stout paper is bound around the mold, projecting about an inch above
the end and plaster is poured to fill it. When this is set the paper is
peeled off and the edges of the mold are dressed smooth. The bottom may
now be detached by inserting a thin knife at the junction, the mold
opened and the form taken out. The mold is now in three parts which may
be put together at will and used for casting the vase in clay.