in the country of Cambaia, forty leagues from Diu. This place, which has
no trade but in corn and rice, has many villages under its jurisdiction,
which the Portuguese possess quietly during peace, but in time of war
they are all occupied by the enemy. From Damaun we passed to _Basaim_,
[Baseen] and from thence to _Tanna_ in the island of Salsette, at both
which places the only trade is in rice and corn. The 10th November we
arrived at _Chaul_ on the firm land, at which place there are two towns,
one belonging to the Portuguese and the other to the Moors. That of the
Portuguese is nearest the sea, commanding the bay, and is walled round;
and a little above it is the Moors town, subject to a king called
_Xa-Maluco_. At this place is a great trade for all Kinds of spices,
drugs, silk, raw and manufactured, sandal-wood, elephants teeth, much
China work, and a great deal of sugar made from the nut called _gagara_,
[coco]. The tree on which it grows is called the _palmer_, and is the
most profitable tree in the world. It always bears fruit, and yields
wine, oil, sugar, vinegar, cordage, coals, or fuel; of the leaves are
made thatch for houses, sails for ships, and mats to sit or lie on; of
the branches are made houses, and brooms wherewith they sweep them; of
the wood ships. The wine issues from the top of the tree, and is
procured thus: They cut a branch, binding it hard, and hang an earthen
pot under the cut end, which they empty every evening and morning; and
still[403] the juice, putting raisins into it, by which it becometh
strong wine in a short time. Many ships come here from all parts of
India, and from Ormus and Mecca, so that there are many Moors and
Gentiles at this place. The natives have a strange superstition,
worshipping a cow, and having cows dung in great veneration, insomuch
that they paint or daub the walls of their houses with it. They kill no
animal whatever, not so much as a louse, holding it a crime to take away
life. They eat no flesh, living entirely on roots, rice, and milk. When
a man dies, his living wife is burnt along with his body, if she be
alive; and if she will not, her head is shaven, and she is ever after
held in low esteem. They consider it a great sin to bury dead bodies, as
they would engender many worms and other vermin, and when the bodies
were consumed these worms would lack sustenance; wherefore they burn
their dead. In all Guzerat they kill nothing; and in the town of Cambay
they have hospitals for lame dogs and cats, and for birds, and they even
provide food for the ants.
[Footnote 403: I am apt to suspect the word _still_ here used, is only
meant to imply fermentation, not distillation--E.]
Goa is the chief city of the Portuguese in India, in which their viceroy
resides and holds his court. It stands in an island about 25 or 30 miles
in circumference, being a fine city and very handsome for an Indian
town. The island is fertile and full of gardens and orchards, with many
palmer trees, and several villages. Here are many merchants of all
nations. The fleet which sails every year from Portugal, consisting of
four, five, or six great ships, comes first here, arriving mostly in
September, and remaining there forty or fifty days. It then goes to
Cochin, where the ships take in pepper for Portugal. Often one ship
loads entirely at Goa, and the rest go to Cochin, which is 100 leagues
to the south. Goa stands in the country of Adel Khan, which is six or
seven days journey inland, the chief city being Bisapor. [Bejapoor.]
On our arrival in Goa we were thrown into prison, and examined before
the justice, who demanded us to produce letters, [of licence?] and
charged us with being spies; but they could prove nothing against us. We
continued in prison till the 22d December, when we were set at liberty,
putting in surety for 2000 ducats not to depart from the town. Our
surety was one Andreas Taborer, who was procured for us by father
Stevens, an English Jesuit whom we found there, and another religious
man, a friend of his. We paid 2150 ducats into the hands of Andreas
Taborer, our surety, who still demanded more; on which we petitioned the
viceroy and justice to order us our money again, seeing they had it near
five months, and could prove nothing against us. But the viceroy gave us
a sharp answer, saying, we should be better sifted ere long, and that
they had other matter against us. Upon this we determined to attempt
recovering our liberty, rather than run the risk of remaining as slaves
for ever in the country, and besides it was said we were to have the
_strapado_. Wherefore, on the 5th of April 1585 in the morning, we
removed secretly from Goa; and getting across the river, we travelled
two days on foot in great fear, not knowing the way, as having no guide,
and not daring to trust any one.
One of the first towns we came to is called _Bellergan?_ where there is
a great market of diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and many other precious
stones. From thence we went to _Bejapoor_, a very large city, where the
king keeps his court, in which there are many Gentiles, who are gross
idolaters, having their idols standing in the woods, which they call
pagodas. Some of these are like a cow, some like a monkey, some like a
buffalo, others resemble a peacock, and others like the devil. In this
country are many elephants, which they employ in their wars. They have
great abundance of gold and silver, and their houses are lofty and well
built. From thence we went to _Galconda_, the king of which is called
_Cutub de lashach_. In this country, in the kingdom of Adel Khan, and in
the Decan, those diamonds are found which are called of the _old water_.
Golconda is a pleasant fair town, having good and handsome houses of
brick and timber, and it abounds with excellent fruits and good water.
It is here very hot, and both men and women go about with only a cloth
bound about their middles, without any other clothing. The winter begins
here about the last of May.
About eight days journey from thence is a sea port called Masulipatan,
toward the gulf of Bengal, to which many ships come out of India, Pegu,
and Sumatra, richly laden with spiceries, pepper, and other commodities.
The country is very fruitful. From thence I went to _Servidone?_ which
is a fine country, its king being called the _king of bread_. The houses
here are all built of loam and thatched. The country contains many Moors
and Gentiles, but there is not much religion among them. From thence I
went to _Bellapore_, and so to _Barrampore_, which is in the country of
_Zelabdim Echebar_ the great _Mogor_. In this place their money is of
silver, round and thick, to the value of twenty-pence. It is a great and
populous country; and in their winter, which is in June, July, and
August, there is no passing the streets except on horseback, the waters
are so high. In this country they make great quantities of cotton cloth,
both white and painted, and the land produces great abundance of corn
and rice. In the towns and villages through which we passed, we found
many marriages celebrated between boys of eight or ten years old, and
girls of five or six. These youthful couples did ride both on one horse,
very bravely dressed, and were carried about the streets with great
piping and playing, after which they returned home and banqueted on rice
and fruits, dancing most of the night, and so ended the marriage, which
is not consumated till the bride be ten years old. We were told they
married their children thus young, because when a man dies his wife is
burnt along with him; and by this device they secure a father-in-law, in
case of the fathers death, to assist in bringing up the children that
are thus early married, thus taking care not to leave their sons without
wives, or their daughters without husbands.
From thence we went to _Mandoway?_ a very strong town, which was
besieged for twelve years by Echebar before he could reduce it. It
stands on a very great high rock, as do most of their castles, and is of
very great circuit. From thence we went to _Vgini?_ and _Serringe?_
where we overtook the ambassador of Zelabdim Echebar, attended by a
prodigious retinue of men, elephants, and camels. In this district there
is a great trade carried on in cotton, and cloths made of cotton, and
great store of drugs. From thence we went to Agra, passing many rivers
which were much swollen by the rains, so that in crossing them we had
often to swim for our lives[404].
[Footnote 404: In this route from Masulipatan to Agra, there are several
places of which the names are so disfigured as to be unintelligible.
Barrampore and Mandoway, are probably Burhampore and Candwah in the
northern part of Candeish; Vgini and Serringe, may he Ougein and Seronge
in Malwa.--E.]
Agra is a very great and populous city built of stone, having large and
handsome streets, upon a fine river which falls into the gulf of Bengal,
and has a strong and handsome castle with a broad and deep ditch. It is
inhabited by many Moors and Gentiles, the king being Zelabdim Echebar,
called for the most part the great _Mogor_. From thence we went to
_Fatepore_, where the king ordinarily resides and holds his court, which
is called _Derican_. This town is larger than Agra, but the streets and
houses are by no means so good, but it is inhabited by a vast multitude
of people, both Moors and Gentiles. In Agra and Fatepoor, the king is
said to have 1000 elephants, 30,000 horses, 1400 tame deer, 800
concubines, and such numbers of ounces, tigers, buffaloes, game-cocks,
and hawks as is quite incredible. Agra and Fatepoor are two great
cities, either of them larger than London, and very populous, at the
distance of 12 miles from each other[405]. The whole road between these
places is one continued market of provisions and other articles, and is
constantly as full of people as a street or market in a great and
populous town. These people have many fine carts, many of which are
richly carved and gilt, having two wheels, and are drawn by two little
bulls, not much larger than our biggest English dogs, which run with
these carts as fast as any horse, carrying two or three men in each
cart: They are covered with silk or fine cloth, and are used like our
coaches in England. There is a great resort of merchants to this place
from Persia and all parts of India, and vast quantities of merchandise,
such as silks, cloths, and precious stones, diamonds, rubies, and
pearls. The king is dressed in a white _cabie_ made like a shirt, and
tied with strings on one side, having a small cloth on his head, often
coloured red and yellow. None enter into his apartments, except the
eunuchs who have charge of his women.
[Footnote 405: Futtipoor, certainly here meant, is now a place of small
importance about 20 miles west from Agra.--E.]
We remained in Fatepore till the 28th of September 1585, when Mr John
Newbery took his journey towards Lahore, intending to go from thence
through Persia to Aleppo or Constantinople, whichever he could get the
readiest passage to; and he directed me to proceed to Bengal and Pegu,
promising me, if it pleased God, to meet me at Bengal within two years
with a ship from England[406]. I left William Leades the jeweller at
Fatepore, in the service of the king Zelabdim Achebar, who gave him good
entertainment, giving a house and five slaves, with a horse, and six
S.S. in money daily. I went from Agra to _Satagam_ in Bengal, in company
with 180 boats loaded with _salt_, opium, _hinge_, lead, carpets, and
various other commodities, down the river _Jemena_, [Jumna]; the chief
merchants being Moors.
[Footnote 406: In Purchas his Pilgrims, I. 110, is the following notice
respecting Mr Newberry: "Before that," meaning his journey along with
Fitch, "he had travelled to Ormus in 1580, and thence into the
Continent, as may appear in fitter place by his journal, which I have,
passing through the countries of Persia, Media, Armenia, Georgia, and
Natolia, to Constantinople; and thence to the Danube, through Walachia,
Poland, Prussia, and Denmark, and thence to England."]
In this country they have many strange ceremonies. The bramins, who are
their priests, come to the water having a string about their necks, and
with many ceremonies lave the water with both their hands, turning the
string with both their hands in several manners; and though it be never
so cold, they wash themselves regularly at all times. These gentiles eat
no flesh, neither do they kill any thing, but live on rice, butter,
milk, and fruits. They pray in the water naked; and both dress and eat
their food naked. For penance, they lie flat on the earth, then rise up
and turn themselves round 30 or 40 times, lifting their hands to the
sun, and kiss the earth with their arms and legs stretched out; every
time they lie down making a score on the ground with their fingers, that
they may know when the prescribed number of prostrations is finished.
Every morning the Bramins mark their foreheads, ears, and throats, with
a kind of yellow paint or earth; having some old men among them, who go
about with a box of yellow powder, marking them on the head and neck as
they meet them. Their women come in troops of 10, 20, and 30 together to
the water side singing, where they wash themselves and go through their
ceremonies, and then mark themselves, and so depart singing. Their
daughters are married at ten years of age, and the men may have seven
wives each. They are a crafty people, worse than the Jews. When they
salute one another, they say, _Rame_, _rame_.
From Agra I came to _Prage_[407], where the river Jumna enters into the
mighty Ganges, and there loses its name. The Ganges comes out of the
north-west, and runs east to discharge its waters into the gulf of
Bengal. In these parts there are many tigers, and vast quantities of
partridges and turtle-doves, besides many other kinds of birds. There
are multitudes of beggars in these countries, called _Schesche_, which
go entirely naked. I here saw one who was a monster among the rest. He
had no clothes whatever, his beard being very long, and the hair of his
head was so long and plentiful, that it covered his nakedness. The nails
on some of his fingers were two inches long, as he would cut nothing
from him; and besides he never spake, being constantly accompanied by
eight or ten others, who spoke for him. If any one spoke to him, he laid
his hand on his breast and bowed, but without speaking, for he would not
have spoken to the king.
[Footnote 407: At the angle of junction between the rivers Jumna and
Ganges, the city of Allahabad is now situated.--E.]
We went from _Prage_ down the Ganges, which is here very broad, and
abounds in various wild-fowl, as swans, geese, cranes, and many others,
the country on both sides being very fertile and populous. For the most
part the men have their faces shaven, but wear the hair of their heads
very long; though some have their crowns shaved, and others have all
their heads shaven except the crown. The water of the river Ganges is
very sweet and pleasant, having many islands, and the adjoining country
is very fertile. We stopt at _Bannaras_, [Benares], a large town in
which great quantities of cotton-cloths are made, and sashes for the
moors. In this place all the inhabitants are gentiles, and the grossest
idolaters I ever saw. To this town the gentiles come on pilgrimages out
of far distant countries. Along the side of the river there are many
fair houses, in all or most of which they have ill favoured images made
of stone or wood; some like lions, leopards, or monkeys; some like men
and women; others like peacocks; and others like the devil, having four
arms and four hands. These all sit cross-legged, some with one thing in
their hands, and others with other things; and by break of day or
before, numbers of men and women come out of the town to these places,
and wash in the Ganges. On mounds of earth made for the purpose, there
are divers old men who sit praying, and who give the people three or
four straws, which they hold between their fingers when they bathe in
the Ganges; and some sit to mark them in the forehead: And the devotees
have each a cloth with a small quantity of rice, barley, or money, which
they give to these old men when they have washed. They then go to one or
other of the idols, where they present their sacrifices. When they have
finished their washings oblations and charities, the old men say certain
prayers by which they are all sanctified.
In divers places there stand a kind of images, called _Ada_ in their
language, having four hands with claws; and they have sundry carved
stones on which they pour water, and lay thereon some rice, wheat,
barley and other things. Likewise they have a great place built of
stone, like a well, with steps to go down, in which the water is very
foul and stinking, through the great quantity of flowers which are
continually thrown into the water: Yet there are always many people in
that water, for they say that it purifies them from their sins, because,
as they allege, God washed himself in that place. They even gather up
the sand or mud from the bottom, which they esteem holy. They never pray
but in the water, in which they wash themselves over head, laving up the
water in both hands, and turning themselves about, they drink a little
of the water three times, and then go to the idols which stand in the
houses already mentioned. Some take of the water, with which they wash a
place of their own length, and then lie down stretched out, rising and
lying down, and kissing the ground twenty or thirty times, yet keeping
their right foot all the time in the same place. Some make their
ceremonies with fifteen or sixteen pots, little and great, ringing a
little bell when they make their mixtures, ten or twelve times. They
make a circle of water round about their pots and pray, divers sitting
by them, and one in particular who reaches the pots to them; and they
say certain words many times over the pots, and when they have done,
they go to their idols, before which they strew their sacrifices, which
they think very holy, and mark many of those who sit by in the
foreheads, which they esteem highly. There sometimes come fifty or even
an hundred together, to wash at this well, and to sacrifice to these
idols.
In some of these idol houses, there are people who stand by them in warm
weather, fanning them as if to cool them; and when they see any company
coming, they ring a little bell which hangs beside them, when many give
them alms, particularly those who come out of the country. Many of these
idols are black and have brazen claws very long, and some ride upon
peacocks, or on very ill-favoured fowls, having long hawks bills, some
like one thing and some like another, but none have good faces. Among
the rest, there is one held in great veneration, as they allege be gives
them all things, both food and raiment, and one always sits beside this
idol with a fan, as if to cool him. Here some are burned to ashes, and
some only scorched in the fire and thrown into the river, where the dogs
and foxes come presently and eat them. Here the wives are burned along
with the bodies of their deceased husbands, and if they will not, their
heads are shaven and they are not afterwards esteemed.
The people go all naked, except a small cloth about their middles. The
women have their necks, arms, and ears decorated with rings of silver,
copper, and tin, and with round hoops of ivory, adorned with amber
stones and many agates, and have their foreheads marked with a great red
spot, whence a stroke of red goes up the crown, and one to each side. In
their winter, which is in May, the men wear quilted gowns of cotton,
like to our counterpanes, and quilted caps like our grocers large
mortars, with a slit to look out at, tied beneath their ears. When a man
or woman is sick and like to die, they are laid all night before the
idols, either to help their sickness or make an end of them. If they do
not mend that night, the friends come and sit up with them, and cry for
some time, after which they take them to the side of the river, laying
them on a raft of reeds, and so let them float down the river.
When they are married the man and woman come to the water side, where
there is an old bramin or priest, a cow and calf, or a cow with calf.
Then the man and woman, together with the cow and calf, go into the
river, giving the old bramin a piece of cloth four yards long, and a
basket cross bound, in which are sundry things. The bramin lays the
cloth on the back of the cow, after which he takes hold of the end of
the cows tail, and says certain words. The woman has a brass or copper
pot full of water; the man takes hold of the bramin with one hand, and
the woman with the other, all having hold of the cow by the tail, on
which they pour water from the pot, so that it runs on all their hands.
They then lave up water with their hands, and the bramin ties the man
and woman together by their clothes[408]. When this is done, they go
round about the cow and calf, and then give some alms to the poor, who
are always present, and to the bramin or priest they give the cow and
calf, after which they go to several of the idols, where they offer
money, lying down flat on the ground before the idol, and kissing the
earth several times, after which they go away. Their chief idols are
black and very ugly, with monstrous mouths, having their ears gilded and
full of jewels, their teeth and eyes of gold, silver, or glass, and
carrying sundry things in their hands. You may not enter into the houses
where they stand with your shoes on. In these houses there are lamps
continually burning before the idols.
[Footnote 408: This tying of new married folks together by the clothes,
was used by the Mexicans in old times.--_Hakluyt_.]
From Benares I went down the Ganges to _Patenaw_, [Patna] passing many
fair towns and a very fertile country, in which way many great rivers
enter the Ganges, some as large as itself, by which it becomes so broad
that in time of the rains you cannot see across. The scorched bodies
which are thrown into the water swim on the surface, the men with their
faces down, and the women with theirs up. I thought they had tied some
weight to their bodies for this purpose, but was told no such thing was
done. There are many thieves in this country, who roam up and down like
the Arabs, having no fixed abode. Here the women are so decked with
silver and copper that it is strange to see them, and they wear so many
rings on their toes that they cannot use shoes. Here at Patna they find
gold in this manner: They dig deep pits in the earth, and wash the earth
in large holes, and in these they find gold, building the pits round
about with bricks, to prevent the earth from falling in.
Patna is a long and large town, being formerly a separate kingdom, but
is now under subjection to the great Mogor. The men are tall and
slender, and have many old people among them. The houses are very
simple, being made of earth and covered with straw, and the streets are
very large. There is here a great trade in cotton and cotton cloth,
likewise great quantities of sugar, which is carried to Bengal and
India, much opium, and other commodities. He that is chief here under
the king is called _Tipperdas_, and is held in much estimation by the
people. Here in Patna I saw a dissembling prophet, who sat on a horse in
the market-place, making as if he were asleep, and many of the people
came and touched his feet with their hands, which they then kissed. They
took him for a great man, but in my opinion he was only a lazy lubber,
whom I left sleeping there. The people of these countries are much given
to these dissembling hypocrites.
From Patna I went to _Tanda_ in the land of _Gouren_[409], which is in
the country of Bengal. This is a place of great trade in cotton and
cotton cloth, formerly a kingdom, but now subject to the great Mogor.
The people are great idolaters, going naked with only a cloth about
their middles, and the country hath many tigers, wild buffaloes, and
wild fowl. _Tanda_ is about a league from the river Ganges, as in times
past the river flowed over its banks in the rainy season, and drowned a
considerable extent of country with many villages, and so it yet
remains, and the old bed of the river still remains dry, by which means
the city now stands at a distance from the water. From Agra I was five
months coming down the Jumna and the Ganges to Bengal, but it may be
sailed in much shorter time.
[Footnote 409: In our modern maps Tanda and the country or district of
Gouren are not to be found; but the ruins of _Gour_, which may have some
reference to Gouren, are laid down in lat. 24° 52' N. long. 88° 5' E.
about seven miles from the main stream of the great Ganges, and ten
miles south from the town of Maida.--E.]
I went from Bengal into the country of _Couche_[410], which is 25 days
journey north from Tanda. The king is a Gentile, named _Suckel Counse_.
His country is very extensive, and reaches to within no great distance
of Cauchin China, whence they are said to procure pepper. The port is
called _Cacchegate_. All the country is set with bamboos or canes made
sharp at both ends, and driven into the earth, and they can let in the
water and drown the country above knee-deep, so that neither men nor
horses can pass; and in case of any wars, they poison all the waters.
The people are all Gentiles, who kill nothing, having their ears
marvellously great and a span long, which they draw out by various
devices when young. They have much silk and musk, and cloth made of
cotton. They have hospitals for sheep, goats, dogs, cats, birds, and all
kinds of living creatures, which they keep when old and lame until they
die. If a man bring any living creature into this country, they will
give money for it or other victuals, and either let it go at large or
keep it in their hospitals. They even give food to the ants. Their small
money is almonds[411], which they often eat.
[Footnote 410: This seemeth to be Quicheu, accounted by some among the
provinces of China.--_Hakluyt_.
The name of this country is so excessively corrupt, and the description
of the route so vague, that nothing can be made out of the text at this
place with any certainty. It is merely possible that he may have gone
into Bootan, which is to the north of Bengal.--E.]
[Footnote 411: In Mexico they likewise use the cacao fruit, or chocolate
nut, for small money, which are not unlike almonds.--_Hakluyt_.]
From thence I returned to _Hugeli_, [Hoogly in Bengal] which is the
place where the Portuguese have their residence in Bengal, being in lat.
23° N[412]. About a league from it is _Satagan_[413], called by the
Portuguese _Porto Piqueno_, or the little port. We went through the
wilderness, because the right way was infested by robbers. In passing
through the country of Gouren we found few villages, being almost all
wilderness, in which were many buffaloes, wild swine, and deer, with
many tigers, the grass being everywhere as tall as a man. Not far from
Porto Piqueno, to the south-westwards, and in the country of _Orixa_, is
a sea-port called _Angeli_[414]. It was formerly a separate kingdom, the
king being a great friend to strangers; but was afterwards taken by the
king of Patna, who did not enjoy it long, being himself conquered by the
king of Delhi, Agra, and Cambaia, Zelabdim Echebar. Orissa is six days
journey south-westwards from _Satagan_. In this place there is much,
rice, and cloth made of cotton; likewise great store of cloth made of
grass, which they call _Yerva_, resembling silk, of which they make
excellent cloth, which is sent to India and other places[415]. To this
haven of _Ingelly_ there come many ships every year out of India,
Negapatnam, Sumatra, Malacca, and many other places, and load from hence
great quantities of rice, much cotton cloths, sugar and long pepper, and
great store of butter and other provisions for India[416]. Satagan is a
very fair city for one belonging to the Moors, and is very plentiful in
all things. In Bengal they have every day a great market or fair, called
_chandeau_, in one place or other, and they have many boats called
_pericose_, with which they go from place to place to buy rice and many
other things. These boats are rowed by 24 or 26 oars, and are of great
burden, but are quite open. The gentiles hold the water of the Ganges in
great reverence; for even if they have good water close at hand, they
will send for water from the Ganges at a great distance. If they have
not enough of it to drink, they will sprinkle a little of it upon
themselves, thinking it very salutary.
[Footnote 412: More accurately 22° 55' 20" N. and long. 88° 28' E. Hoogly
stands on the western branch of the Ganges, called the Hoogly river,
about twenty miles direct north from Calcutta.--E.]
[Footnote 413: We thus are enabled to discover nearly the situation of
Satagan or Satigan, to have been on the Hoogly river, probably where
Chinsura now stands, or it may have been Chandernagor.--E.]
[Footnote 414: Injelly, at the mouth of a small river which falls into
the Hoogly, very near its discharge into the bay of Bengal. Injelly is
not now considered as in Orissa, but in the district of Hoogly belonging
to Bengal, above forty miles from the frontiers--E.]
[Footnote 415: A similar cloth may be made of the long grass which grows
in Virginia.--_Hakluyt_.]
[Footnote 416: India seems always here limited to the Malabar
coast.--E.]
From Satagan I travelled by the country of the King of Tippara, or
_Porto Grande_[417]. The _Mogores_ or _Mogen_ [Moguls] have almost
continual wars with Tiperah; the Mogen of the kingdom of _Recon_ and
_Rame_, are stronger than the King of Tiperah, so that Cittigong or
Porto Grande is often under the dominion of the king of _Recon_[418].
There is a country four days journey from _Couche_ called
_Bottanter_[419], the principal city of which is _Bottia_, and the king
is called _Dermain_. The people are tall, strong, and very swift. Many
merchants come here out of China, and it is said even from Muscovy and
Tartary, to purchase musk, _cambals_, agates, silk, pepper, and saffron,
like the saffron of Persia[420]. This country is very great, being not
less than three months journey in extent, and contains many high
mountains, one of them so steep and high that it may be perfectly seen
at the distance of six days journey[421]. There are people on these
mountains having ears a span long, and they call such as have not long
ears asses. They say that from these mountains _they see ships sailing
on the sea_, but know not whence they come nor whither they go. There
are merchants who come out of the east from under the sun, which is from
China, having no beards, who say their country is warm; but others come
from the north, on the other side of the mountains, where it is very
cold. These merchants from the north are apparelled in woollen cloth and
hats, with close white hose or breeches and boots, who come from Muscovy
or Tartary. These report that they have excellent horses in their
country, but very small; some individuals possessing four, five, or six
hundred horses and cattle. These people live mostly on milk and flesh.
They cut off the tails of their cows, and sell them very dear, as they
are in high request in those parts. The rump is only a span long, but
the hair is a yard in length. These tails are used for show, to hang
upon the heads of elephants, and are much sought after in Pegu and
China.
[Footnote 417: Perhaps this ought to have been, by the country of Tipera
_to_ Porto Grande. Porto Grande, formerly called Chittigong, is now
called Islamabad, and is in the district of Chittigong, the most
easterly belonging to Bengal.--E.]
[Footnote 418: Aracan is certainly here meant by _Recon_; of _Rame_
nothing can be made, unless Brama, or Birmah be meant.--E.]
[Footnote 419: _Bottanter_ almost certainly means Bootan. Of _Bottia_ we
know nothing, but it is probably meant to indicate the capital.
_Dermain_ may possibly be some corruption of _Deb raja_, the title of
the sovereign. It is obvious from this passage, that _Couche_ must have
been to the south of Bootan, and was perhaps Coch-beyhar, a town and
district in the north-east of Bengal, near the Bootan frontier.--E.]
[Footnote 420: The saffon of Persia of the text may perhaps mean
_turmeric_. The cambals may possibly mean camblets.--E.]
[Footnote 421: These seem to be the mountains of Imaus, called Cumao by
the natives.--_Hakluyt_.
The Himmaleh mountains, dividing Bootan from Thibet, said to be visible
from the plains of Bengal at the distance of 150 miles.--E.]
From Chittigong in Bengal, I went to _Bacola_[422], the king of which
country is a Gentile of an excellent disposition, who is particularly
fond of shooting with a gun. His country is large and fertile, having
great abundance of rice, and manufactures much silk, and cloths of
cotton. The houses of this city are good and well built, with large
streets. The people go naked, except a cloth round their waists, and the
women wear many silver hoops about their necks and arms, and rings of
silver, copper, and ivory about their legs. From thence I went to
_Serrepore_ upon the Ganges, the king or rajah of which is called
Chondery. They are all hereabouts in rebellion against the great Mogul,
for there are so many rivers and islands that they escape from one to
another, so that his horsemen cannot prevail against them. Great store
of cotton cloth is made here. _Sinnergan_ is a town six leagues from
_Serrepore_, where the best and finest cotton cloth of all the east is
made[423]. The chief king of all those countries is called Isa-khan,
being supreme over all the other kings or rajahs, and is a great friend
to the Christians. Here, as in most parts of India, the houses are very
small and covered with straw, having a few mats hung round the walls and
over the door-way, to keep out tigers and foxes. They live on rice,
milk, and fruits, eating no flesh and killing no animals; and though
many of them are very rich, their sole article of dress is a small cloth
before them. From hence they send great quantities of cotton cloths and
much rice, all over India, Pegu, Malacca, Sumatra, and other places.
[Footnote 422: Perhaps Pucouloe, a place of some size near Davas between
the Ganges and Burhampooter rivers.--E.]
[Footnote 423: Serampoor on the Hoogly river agrees at least in sound
with the Serrepore of the text; but, from the context, I rather suspect
Serrepore to have stood among the numerous islands of the great eastern
Ganges, in the province of Dava, and near the junction of the Ganges and
Burhampooter or Megna rivers. Of Sinnergan I can make nothing, only that
it must have stood in the same district.--E.]
I went from Serrepore the 28th of November 1586 for Pegu, in a small
ship or foist, commanded by one Albert Caravallos, and sailing down the
Ganges, we passed by the island of Sundiva, Porto grande, or Chittigong,
in the country of Tiperah, and the kingdom of Recon and Mogen[424],
leaving all on our left hand, our course being south by east, with the
wind at north-west, which brought us to the bar of Negrais in Pegu. Had
we met with a foul wind, we must have thrown many things overboard, for
we were so lumbered with people and goods, even on the deck, that there
was scarce a place to sit down upon. From Bengal to Pegu is 90 leagues.
We entered the bar of Negrais, [at the mouth of the western branch of
the river of Ava], which is an excellent bar, having four fathoms water
where shallowest. Three days afterwards we came to Cosmin, a very pretty
town, pleasantly situated and abounding in all things. The people are
tall and well disposed; the women white, round faced, and having small
eyes. The houses are high built, set upon great high posts, and they go
up to them by means of ladders for fear of the tigers, which are very
numerous. The country is very fertile, abounding in great figs, oranges,
coconuts, and other fruits. The land is very high on the sea coast, but
after getting within the bar, it is very low and much intersected with
rivers, so that they go everywhere in boats, which they call _paraos_,
in which many of them dwell with their wives and children.
[Footnote 424: Recon has already been supposed to be Aracan, which is
now quite obvious; but in what manner Mogen may refer to Ava, the next
country to the south, does not appear.--E.]
From the bar of Negrais to the city of Pegu, is ten days journey by the
rivers. We went from _Cosmin_ to Pegu in paraos or boats, and passing up
the river we came to _Medon_, a very pretty town, having a wonderful
number of paraos, for they dwell in them, and hold markets on the water.
In rowing up and down with their commodities in these boats, they have a
great _sombrero_ or umbrella over their heads, to defend them from the
sun, as broad and round as a great cart wheel, made of the leaves of the
coco or the fig tree, which are very light. From Medon we went to Dela,
where there are 18 or 20 great long houses, where they tame and keep
many elephants belonging to the king, as elephants are caught in the
wilderness near this place. From Dela we went to _Cirian_, [Siriam] a
good town having an excellent sea-port, to which come many ships from
Mecca, Malacca, Sumatra, and other places; and there the ships discharge
their cargoes, and send up their goods in paraos to Pegu. From Siriam we
went to _Macao_, a pretty town, where we left the boats, and in the
morning taking _delingeges_, which are a kind of couches made of cords
and quilted cloth, carried on a _stang_, or long pole, by three or four
men, we came to Pegu the same day.
Pegu is a great strong and fair city, having walls of stone and great
ditches all round about. It consists of two towns, the old and the new.
In the old town dwell all the stranger merchants, and very many native
merchants, and all the goods are sold in the old town, which is very
large, and hath many extensive suburbs all round about it, all the
houses being of bamboo canes and covered with straw. In your house,
however, you have a warehouse, which they call a _godown_, built of
bricks, in which to keep your goods, as often the city takes fire, and
four or five hundred houses are burnt down, so that these _godowns_ are
very useful to save your goods. The king with all his nobility and
gentry dwell in the new town, which is a great and populous city,
entirely square with fair walls, and a great ditch all round about full
of water, in which are many crocodiles. It has twenty gates, five on
each side of the square, all built of stone. There are also many turrets
for centinels, made of wood and splendidly gilded. The streets are the
handsomest I ever saw, all as straight as a line from one gate to the
other, and so broad that ten or twelve men may ride abreast through
them. On both sides, at every door, there are palmer trees planted,
which bear coco-nuts, and which make a fine shew as well as a commodious
shade, so that the people may walk all day in the shade. The houses are
of wood, covered with tiles.
The palace of the king stands in the middle of this city, and is walled
and ditched all round, all the houses within being of wood very
sumptuously gilded, and the fore-front is of very rich workmanship, all
gilded in a very costly manner. The pagoda, or house in which his idols
stand, is covered with tiles of silver, and all the walls are gilt over
with gold. Within the first gate of the palace is a very large court, on
both sides of which are the houses for the king's elephants, which are
wonderfully large and handsome, and are trained for war and for the
king's service. Among the rest, he has four white elephants, which are a
great rarity, no other king having any but he; and were any other king
to have any, he would send for it, and if refused would go to war for
it, and would rather lose a great part of his kingdom than not have the
elephant. When any white elephant is brought to the king, all the
merchants in the city are commanded to go and visit him, on which
occasion each individual makes a present of half a ducat, which amounts
to a good round sum, as there are a vast many merchants, after which
present you may go and see them at your pleasure, although they stand in
the king's house. Among his titles, the king takes that of king of the
white elephants. They do great honour and service to these white
elephants, every one of them having a house gilded with gold, and
getting their food in vessels of gilt silver. Every day when they go to
the river to wash, each goes under a canopy of cloth of gold or silk,
carried by six or eight men, and eight or ten men go before each,
playing on drums, _shawms_, and other instruments. When each has washed
and is come out of the river, he has a gentleman to wash his feet in a
silver basin, which office is appointed by the king. There is no such
account made of the black elephants, be they never so great, and some of
them are wonderfully large and handsome, some being nine cubits high.
The king has a very large place, about a mile from Pegu, for catching
wild elephants, in a great grove or wood, having a fair court in the
middle. There are many huntsmen, who go into the wilderness with
she-elephants, trained for the purpose, each huntsman having five or six
which are anointed with a certain ointment to entice the wild males to
follow them. When they have brought a wild elephant within their snares,
the hunters send word to the town, on which many horsemen and footmen go
out, and force the wild elephant to enter into a narrow way leading to
the inner inclosure, and when the he and she are in, then is the gate
shut upon them. They then get the female out, and when the male finds
himself alone and entrapped, he cries out and sheds tears, running
against the enclosure, which is made of strong trees, and some of them
break their tusks in endeavouring to force their way out. The people
then goad him with pointed canes, till they force him into a narrow
stall, in which he is securely fastened with strong ropes about his body
and legs, and is left there for three or four days without food or
drink. Then they bring a female to him, with food and drink, and unbind
the ropes, and he becomes tame in three or four days. When they take the
elephants to war, they fix a frame of wood on their backs with great
ropes, upon which sit four or six men, who fight with guns, bows and
arrows, darts, and other weapons; and it is said that the elephant's
hide is so thick that a musket ball will not pierce them, except in some
tender place.
The weapons of these people are very bad, their swords being short and
blunt at the points. They have arquebusses also, but they shoot very
badly with them. The king keeps great state, sitting in public twice
every day, having all his nobles, which they call _shemines_, sitting on
each side at a good distance, and a numerous guard on the outside of
all, so that the hall, or court is very large. If any one wish to speak
to the king, he maketh three profound reverences, when he enters, in
the mid way, and when he comes near the king; at each of these he kneels
down, holds his hands above his head, and bows with his head to the
ground three times. He then sits down to speak to the king, and if
favoured is allowed to come near, within three or four paces, but
otherwise is made to sit at a greater distance. When the king goes to
war he is accompanied by a great military force. While I was in Pegu, he
went to Odia, in the kingdom of Siam, with 300,000 men and 5000
elephants. His particular guard was 30,000. When the king rides abroad,
he is accompanied by a strong guard and many nobles, and often rides on
an elephant having a great castle on its back superbly gilded; sometimes
he travels on a great frame of wood like a horse-litter, having a small
house or canopy upon it, covered over head, and open at the sides, which
is all splendidly gilded with gold, and adorned with many rubies and
sapphires, of which he hath an infinite store, as a vast many of them
are found in this country. This couch or litter is called _serrion_ in
their language, and is carried on the shoulders of 16 or 18 men. On
these occasions, there is much triumphing and shouting made before the
king, by great numbers of men and women.
This king has little force by sea, having very few ships. He has houses
quite full of gold and silver, both of which are often coming in to him,
but very little goes out again, so that he makes little account of it,
and this vast treasury is always open to inspection, in a great walled
court with two gates, which are always open to all men. In this court
there are four houses very richly gilded and covered with leaden roofs,
in each of which is a pagod or idol, of huge stature and vast value. In
the first of these houses is the image of a king, all in gold, having a
golden crown on his head richly set with large rubies and sapphires, and
round about are the images of four children all in gold. In the second
house is the image of a man in silver, of prodigious size, as high as a
house, insomuch that the foot is as long as the stature of a man. This
figure is in a sitting posture, having a crown on its head, richly
adorned with precious stones. In the third house is the statue of a man
in brass, still larger than the former, with a rich crown on its head.
In the fourth house is another brazen statue, still larger than the
former, having also a crown on its head richly adorned with jewels. In
another court not far from this, there are four other pagodas or idols
of wonderful size, made of copper, which were formed in the places in
which they now stand, being of such enormous size that they could not be
removed. These stand in four separate houses, and are gilded all over
except their heads, which resemble black-a-moors. The expences of these
people in gilding their images are quite enormous. The king has only one
wife, but above 300 concubines, by whom he is said to have 80 or 90
children. He sits in judgment every day, on which occasion the
applicants use no speech, but give up their supplications in writing,
being upon long slips of the leaves of a tree, a yard long and about two
inches broad, written with a pointed iron or stile like a bodkin. He who
gives in his application, stands at some distance carrying a present. If
his application is to be complied with, his present is accepted and his
request granted; but if his suit be denied he returns home with his
present.
There are few commodities in India which serve for trade at Pegu, except
opium of Cambaia, painted cottons from San Thome or Masulipatam, and
white cloth of Bengal, vast quantities of which are sold here. They
bring likewise much cotton yarn, dyed red with a root called _saia_,
which never loses its colour, a great quantity of which is sold yearly
in Pegu at a good profit. The ships from Bengal, San Thome, and
Masulipatam, come to the bar of Negrais and to Cosmin. To Martaban,
another sea-port in the kingdom of Pegu, many ships come from Malacca,
with sandal-wood, porcelains, and other wares of China, camphor of
Borneo, and pepper from Acheen in the island of Sumatra. To Siriam,
likewise a port of Pegu, ships come from Mecca with woollen cloth,
scarlet, velvets, opium, and other goods.
In Pegu there are eight brokers called _tareghe_, which are bound to
sell your goods at the prices they are worth, receiving as their fee two
in the hundred, for which they are bound to make good the price, because
you sell your goods on their word. If the broker do not pay you on the
day appointed, you may take him home to your house and keep him there,
which is a great shame for him. And, if he do not now pay you
immediately, you may take his wife, children, and slaves, and bind them
at your door in the sun; for such is the law of the country. Their
current money is of brass, which they call _ganza_, with which you may
buy gold, silver, rubies, musk, and all other things. Gold and silver is
reckoned merchandise, and is worth sometimes more and sometimes less,
like all other wares, according to the supply and demand. The ganza or
brass money goes by weight, which they call a _biza_; and commonly this
biza is worth, in our way of reckoning, about half a crown or somewhat
less. The merchandises in Pegu are, gold, silver, rubies, sapphires,
spinels, musk, benzoin, frankincense, long pepper, tin, lead, copper,
_lacca_, of which hard sealing-wax is made, rice, wine made of rice,
[_aruck_,] and some sugar. The elephants eat sugar canes in great
quantities, or otherwise they might make abundance of sugar.
They consume many canes likewise[425], in making their _varellas_ or
idol temples, of which there are a prodigious multitude, both large and
small. These are made round like a sugar loaf, some being as high as a
church, and very broad beneath, some being a quarter of a mile in
compass. Within these are all of earth, faced round with stone. In these
_varellas_ they consume a vast quantity of gold, as they are all gilded
aloft, and some from top to bottom; and they must be newly gilded every
ten or twelve years, because the rain washes off the gold, as they all
stand exposed to the weather. Were it not for the prodigious quantities
of gold consumed in this manner, it would be very plentiful and cheap in
Pegu. About two days journey from Pegu there is a _varella_ or pagoda
called _dogonne_, of wonderful bigness, gilded all over from top to
bottom, to which the inhabitants of Pegu go in pilgrimage; and near it
is a house where their talapoins or priests preach to the people. This
house is fifty five paces long, and hath three _pawnes_ or covered walks
in it, the roof being supported by forty great gilded pillars, which
stand between the walks. It is open on all sides, having a vast number
of small gilded pillars, and the whole is gilded both within and
without. Round about this there are many fair houses for the pilgrims to
dwell in, and many goodly houses in which the talapoins preach, which
are all full of idols or images, both male and female, all gilded with
gold. This, in my opinion, is the fairest place in the world. It stands
very high, having four roads leading to it, all planted on each side
with fruit-trees, so that the people walk in the shade in all these
avenues, which are each above two miles long. When the grand festival
of this varella approaches, one can hardly pass any way, on account of
the great throngs of people, both by land and water, as they flock from
all parts of the kingdom of Pegu to be present at the festival.
[Footnote 425: Surely the bamboo, not the sugar cane. It may be noticed,
that almost the whole of this account of Pegu seems to have been
borrowed from the relation of Cesar Frederick.--E.]
In Pegu, there are many priests or talapoins, as they are called, who
preach against all abuses, and many people resort to hear them. When
they enter into the _kiack_, that is to say the holy place or temple,
there is a great jar of water at the door, having a cock or ladle, and
there they wash their feet. They then walk in, and lift their hands to
their heads, first to the preacher, and then to the sun, after which
they sit down. The talapoins are strangely apparelled, having a brown
_cambaline_ or thin cloth next their body, above which is another of
yellow many times doubled or folded over their shoulders, and these two
are girded round them by a broad girdle. They have a skin of leather
hung by a string round their necks, on which they sit, bare headed and
bare footed, as they wear no shoes. Their right arms are all bare, and
they carry a large _sombrero_ or umbrella over their heads, which
protects them from the sun in summer, and from the rain in winter.
Before taking their orders, the talapoins go to school till, twenty
years old or more, and then go before a head talapoin appointed for the
purpose, called a _rowli_, who is the most learned of the order, who
examines them many times, whether they will leave their friends,
foregoing the company of women, and assume the habit of a talapoin. If
any one be content, he is made to ride through the streets on a horse,
very richly apparelled, accompanied by many drums and trumpets, to shew
that he is about to quit the riches and vanity of the world. A few days
afterwards, he is again carried through the streets, on a thing like a
horse litter, called _serion_, mounted on the shoulders of ten or twelve
men, and dressed in the habit of a talapoin, preceded by drums and
instruments of music, and accompanied by many talapoins and all his
friends. He is thus carried to his house without side of the town, and
is there left.
Every individual talapoin has his own house, which is very small, set
upon six or eight posts, and to which they have to go up by a ladder of
twelve or fourteen staves. Their houses are mostly by the road sides,
and among the trees in the woods. They go about, having a great pot of
wood or fine earthen ware covered, and hung by a broad belt from their
shoulder, with which they beg their victuals, being rice, fish, and
herbs. They never ask any thing, but come to the doors, when the people
presently give them, some one thing and some another, all of which they
put into their pot, saying they must feed on their alms and be
contented. Their festivals are regulated by the moon, their chiefest
being at the new moon, when the people send rice and other things to the
_kiack_ or church which they frequent, where all the talapoins belonging
to it meet and eat the victuals that are sent. When the talapoins
preach, many of their hearers carry gifts to them in the pulpit, while
preaching, a person sitting beside the preacher to receive these gifts,
which are divided between them. So far as I could see, they have no
other ceremonials or religious service, except preaching.
From Pegu I went to _Jamahey_, in the country of the _Langeiannes_, whom
we call _Jangomes_, which is twenty-five days journey north from
Pegu[426], in which journey I passed through many fertile and pleasant
countries, the whole being low land, with many fine rivers; but the
houses are mean and bad, being built of canes and covered with straw.
This country has great numbers of wild elephants and buffaloes.
_Jamahey_ is a large handsome town, well peopled, and the houses are
well built of stone, with broad streets. The men are strong and well
made, having a cloth about their middles, bareheaded and with bare feet,
as in all these countries they wear no shoes. The women are much fairer
than those of Pegu. In all these countries they have no wheat, living
entirely on rice, which they make into cakes. To Jamahey there come many
merchants out of China, bringing great store of musk, gold, silver, and
many Chinese manufactures. They have here such great abundance of
provisions, that they do not take the trouble to milk the buffaloes as
they do in other places. Here there is great abundance of copper and
benzoin.
[Footnote 426: The names here used are so corrupted as to be utterly
unintelligible. Twenty-five days journey north from the city of Pegu, or
perhaps 500 miles, would lead the author into the northern provinces of
the Birman empire, of which the geography is very little known, perhaps
into Assan: Yet the _Langeiannes_ may possibly refer to _Lang-shang_ in
Laos, nearly west from Pegu. _Jamahey_ may be _Shamai_, in the north of
Laos; near the N.W. frontier of China.--E.]
In these countries, when people are sick, they make a vow to offer meat
to the devil in case of recovery; and when they recover, they make a
banquet, with many pipes and drums and other musical instruments,
dancing all night, and their friends bring gifts of coco-nuts, figs,
arecas, and other fruits, and with much dancing and rejoicing they
offer these to the devil, giving him to eat, and then drive him out.
While dancing and playing, they often cry and hallow aloud, to drive the
devil away. While sick, a talapoin or two sit every night by the sick
person, continually singing, to please the devil, that he may not hurt
them. When any one dies, he is carried on a great frame of wood like a
tower, having a covering or canopy made of canes all gilded, which is
carried by fourteen or sixteen men, preceded by drums, pipes, and other
instruments, and being taken to a place out of the town, the body is
there burned. On this occasion, the body is accompanied by all the male
friends, relations, and neighbours of the deceased; and they give the
talapoins or priests many mats and much cloth. They then return to the
house, where they feast for two days. After this, the widow, with all
her neighbours wives, and female friends, goes to the place where her
husband was burnt, where they sit a certain time lamenting, and then
gather up all the pieces of bones which have not been burnt to ashes,
which they bury; they then return home, and thus make an end of
mourning. On these occasions, the male and female relations shave their
heads, which is only done for the death of a friend, as they greatly
esteem their hair.
_Caplan_, the place where the rubies, sapphires and spinels are found,
is six days journey from Ava in the kingdom of Pegu. There are here many
great hills out of which they are dug, but no person is allowed to go to
the pits, except those employed in digging. In Pegu, and in all the
countries of Ava, Langeiannes, Siam, and of the Birmans, the men wear
little round balls in their privities, some having two and some three,
being put in below the skin, which is cut for that purpose, one on one
side and another on the other, which they do when 25 or 30 years of age.
These were devised that they might not abuse the male sex, to which
shocking vice they were formerly much addicted. It was also ordained,
that the women should not have more than three cubits of cloth in their
under garments, which likewise are open before, and so tight, that when
they walk they shew the leg bare above the knee.
The _bramas_, or birmans of the kings country, for the king is a birman,
have their legs or bellies, or some other part of their body according
to their fancy made black by pricking the skin, and rubbing in _anile_
or indigo, or some other black powder, which continues ever after; and
this is considered as a great honour, none being allowed to do this but
the birmans who are of kin to the king. Those people wear no beards, but
pull out the hair from their faces with small pincers made for the
purpose. Some leave 16 or 20 hairs growing together, some on one part of
the face and some on another, and pull out all the rest; every man
carrying his pincers with him, and pulling out the hairs as fast as they
appear. If they see a man with a beard they wonder at him. Both men and
women have their teeth black; for they say a dog has white teeth, and
therefore they have theirs black. When the Peguers have a law-suit that
is difficult to determine, they place two long canes upright in the
water where it is very deep, and both parties go into the water beside
the poles, having men present to judge them; they both dive, and he who
remains longest under water gains his suit.
The 10th of January, I went from Pegu to Malacca, passing many of the
sea-ports of Pegu, as Martaban, the island of _Tavi_ whence all India is
supplied with tin, Tanaserim, the island of Junkselon, and many others.
I came on the 8th of February to Malacca, where the Portuguese have a
castle near the sea. The country without the town belongs to the Malays,
who are a proud kind of people, going naked with a cloth about their
waists, and a small roll of cloth round their heads. To this place come
many ships from China, the Moluccas, Banda, Timor, and many other
islands of the Javas, bringing great store of spices, drugs, diamonds,
and other precious stones. The voyages to many of these islands belong
to the captain of Malacca, so that no one can go there without his
licence, by which he draws large sums of money every year. The
Portuguese at Malacca are often at war with the king of Acheen in the
island of Sumatra; from whence comes great store of pepper and other
spices yearly to Pegu, Mecca, and other places.
When the Portuguese go from Macao in China to Japan, they carry much
white silk, gold, musk, and porcelain, and bring from thence nothing but
silver. A great carak goes on this voyage every year, and brings from
thence about 600,000 crusadoes: and all this silver of Japan, and
200,000 more which they bring yearly from India, they employ to great
advantage in China, whence they bring gold, musk, silk, copper,
porcelains, and many very costly articles richly gilded. When the
Portuguese go to Canton in China to trade, they are only permitted to
remain there a certain number of days. When they enter the gates of the
city, they have to set down their names in a book, and when they go out
at night must put out their names, as they are not allowed to remain in
the town all night, but must sleep in their boats. When their time of
stay is expired, if any one remain, he is liable to be imprisoned and
very ill used, as the Chinese are very suspicious and do not trust
strangers; and it is even thought that the king of China does not know
of any strangers being admitted into his dominions. It is likewise
credibly reported, that the people of China see their king very seldom,
or not at all, and may not even look up to the place where he sits. When
he goes abroad, he is carried in a great chair or _serion_, splendidly
gilded, on which is made a small house with a lattice to look through,
so that he cannot be seen but may see about him. While he is passing,
all the people kneel with their faces to the ground, holding their hands
over their heads, and must not look up till he is past.
In China, when in mourning, the people wear white thread shoes and straw
hats. A man mourns two years for his wife, the wife three years for her
husband, the son a year for his father, and two years for his mother.
During the whole time of mourning the dead body is kept in the house,
the bowels being taken out, filled with _chaunam_ or lime, and put into
a coffin. When the time expires, it is carried out with much playing and
piping, and burned. After this they pull off their mourning weeds, and
may marry again when they please. All the people of China, Japan, and
Cochin-china, write downwards, from the top of the page to the bottom
using a fine pencil made of dogs or cats hair.
_Laban_ is an island among the Javas, whence come the diamonds of _the
new water_. They are there found in the rivers, as the king will not
allow them to be dug for in the rock. _Jamba_ is another island among
the Javas, from whence also diamonds are brought. In this island the
king has a mass of earth growing in the middle of the river, which is
gold; and when he is in want of gold, they cut part of this earth and
melt it, whereof cometh gold. This mass of earth is only to be seen once
a year, in the month of April, when the water is low. _Bima_ is another
island among the Javas, where the women labour as our men do in England,
and the men keep the house or go where they will[427].
[Footnote 427: All the names of these islands among the Javas, or isles
of Sunda are unintelligibly corrupt.--E.]
The 28th of March 1588, I returned from Malacca to Martaban, and thence
to Pegu, where I remained the second time till the 17th of September,
and then went to Cosmin where I took shipping; and escaping many dangers
from contrary winds, it pleased God that we arrived in Bengal in
November. I had to remain there, for want of a passage, till the 3d
February 1589, when I embarked for Cochin. In this voyage we suffered
great hardships for want of water; for the weather was very hot, and we
were many on board, merchants and passengers, and we had many calms. It
pleased God that we arrived in Ceylon on the 6th of March, where we
staid five days, to furnish ourselves with water and necessary
provisions.
Ceylon is a beautiful and fertile island, yet by reason of continual
wars with the king, every thing is very dear, as he will not suffer any
thing to be brought to the castle belonging to the Portuguese, so that
they are often in great want of victuals, and they are forced to bring
their provisions every year from Bengal. The king is called rajah and is
very powerful, for he comes sometimes against Columbo, where the
Portuguese have their fort, with 100,000 men and many elephants. But
they are all naked people, though many of them are excellent marksmen
with their muskets. When the king talks with any man, he stands on one
leg, setting the other foot on his knee, with his sword in his hand; as,
according to their customs the king never sits. He is dressed in a fine
painted cotton cloth wrapped about his middle; his hair long and bound
about his head with a small fine cloth, and all the rest of his body
naked. His guard is a thousand men, which stand round about him. They
are all Chingalese, who are said to be the best kind of the Malabars.
They have very large ears, as the larger they are the more honourable
they are esteemed, some being a span long. They burn the wood of the
cinnamon tree, which gives a pleasant scent. In this island there is
great store of rubies, sapphires, and spinels of the best kind, but the
king will not allow the inhabitants to dig for them, lest they should
tempt his enemies to make war upon him and deprive him of his dominions.
There are no horses in this country, but many elephants, which are not
so large as those of Pegu, which are of prodigious size; yet it is said
all other elephants are afraid of those of Ceylon, and refuse to fight
them, though small. The women of this island wear a cloth round their
middles, reaching only to the knees, all the rest of their bodies being
bare. Both men and women are black and very little. Their houses are
small, being constructed of the branches of the palmer or coco tree, and
covered with the leaves of the same tree.
The 11th of March we departed from Ceylon and doubled Cape Comorin. Not
far from thence, between Ceylon and the main-land of India at
Negapatnam, they fish for pearls every year, whence all India, Cambaya,
and Bengal are supplied. But these pearls are _not so orient_ [are not
so round or of so fine a water] as those of Bahrain in the gulph of
Persia. From Cape Comorin we went to Coulan, a fort of the Portuguese,
whence comes great store of pepper for Portugal, as frequently one of
the caraks is laden here. We arrived at Cochin on the 22d of March,
where we found the weather very warm, and a great scarcity of
provisions, as neither corn nor rice grows here, having mostly to be
supplied from Bengal. They have here very bad water, as the river is far
off; and by this bad water many of the people are like lepers, and many
have their legs swollen as big as a mans waist, so that they can hardly
walk. The people here are Malabars, of the race of the Nairs of Calicut,
who differ much from the other Malabars. These have their heads very
full of hair, bound up with a string, above which is a great bush of
hair. The men are tall and strong, and excellent archers, using a long
bow and long arrows, which are their best weapons; yet they have some
fire-arms among them, which they handle very badly.
In this country pepper grows, being trained up a tree or pole. It is
like our ivy berry, but something longer, like an ear of wheat. At first
the bunches are green, but as they become ripe they are cut off and
dried. The leaf is much smaller and thinner than that of ivy. The houses
of the inhabitants are very small, and are covered with the leaves of
the coco-tree. The men are of moderate stature, but the women very
little; all black, with a cloth about their middles, hanging down to
their hams, all the rest of their bodies being naked. They have horribly
great ears, with many rings set with pearls and other stones. All the
pepper sold in Calicut, and the coarse cinnamon [cassia] grow in this
country. The best cinnamon comes from Ceylon, and is peeled from fine
young trees. They have here many palmers, or coco-nut trees, which is
their chief food, as it yields both meat and drink, together with many
other useful things, as I said formerly.
The nairs belonging to the Samorin or king of Calicut, which are
Malabars, are always at war with the Portuguese, though their sovereign
be at peace with them; but his people go to sea to rob and plunder.
Their chief captain is called _Cogi Alli_, who hath three castles under
his authority. When the Portuguese complain to the Samorin, he pretends
that he does not send them out, but he certainly consents to their
going. They range all along the coast from Ceylon to Goa, and go in
parties of four or five paraos or boats together, in each of which are
fifty or sixty men, who immediately board every vessel they come up
with, doing much harm on that coast, and every year take many foists and
barks belonging to the Portuguese. Besides the nairs, many of the people
in these paraos are Moors. The dominions of the Samorin begin twelve
leagues from Cochin and reach to near Goa.
I remained in Cochin eight months, till the 2d of November, not being
able to procure a passage in all that time; whereas if I had arrived two
days sooner I should have got a passage immediately. From Cochin I went
to Goa, which is an hundred leagues; and after remaining three days I
went to Chaul, sixty leagues from Goa. I remained twenty-three days at
Chaul, making all necessary preparations for the prosecution of my
voyage. I then sailed for Ormus, four hundred leagues from Goa, where I
had to wait fifty days for a passage to Basora.
From Basora I went up the Euphrates and Tigris to Babylon or Bagdat,
being drawn up most of the way by the strength of men, hauling by a long
rope. From Bagdat I went by land to Mosul, which stands near the scite
of the ancient Nineveh, which is all ruinated and destroyed. From Mosul
I travelled to Merdin in Armenia, where a people called _Cordies_ or
Curds now dwell. I went thence to Orfa, a fair town having a fair
fountain full of fish, where the Mahometans hold many opinions, and
practice many ceremonies in reference to Abraham, who they allege once
dwelt there. From thence I went to Bir, where I crossed the Euphrates,
and continued my journey to Aleppo; whence, after staying some months
for a caravan, I went to Tripolis in Syria. Finding an English ship
there, I had a prosperous voyage to London, where by the blessing of God
I arrived safe on the 29th of April 1591, having been eight years absent
from my native country.
* * * * *
Before ending this my book, I have thought right to declare some things
which are produced in India and the countries farther east[428].
[Footnote 428: This account of the commodities of India so very much
resembles that already given in the perigrinations of Cesar Frederick,
Vol. VII. p. 204, as to seem in a great measure borrowed from it, though
with some variations.--E.]
Pepper grows in many parts of India, especially about Cochin; much of it
growing wild in the fields among the bushes without cultivation, and is
gathered when ripe. When first gathered it is green, but becomes black
by drying in the sun. Ginger is found in many parts of India, growing
like our garlic, the root being the ginger. Cloves come from the Molucca
islands, the tree resembling our bay. Nutmegs and mace grow together on
the same tree, and come from the island of Banda, the tree being like
our walnut-tree, but smaller. White sandal wood comes from the island of
Timor. It is very sweet scented, and is in great request among the
natives of India, who grind it up with a little water, and then anoint
their bodies with it, as a grateful perfume. Camphor is esteemed very
precious among the Indians, and is sold dearer than gold, so that I
think none of it comes to Christendom. That which is compounded comes
from China: But the best, which grows in canes, comes from the great
island of Borneo.
Lignuo aloes are from Cochin China. Benjamin, or Benzoin, comes from
Siam and Jangomes[429]. Long pepper grows in Bengal, Pegu, and the
Javas. Musk comes from Tartary[430], Amber[431] is supposed by most to
come out of the sea, as it is all found on the shore.
[Footnote 429: In Cesar Fredericks peregrinations, Benzoin is said to
come from Siam and _Assi_, or Assam, which confirms the conjecture
already made, of Langeiannes and the Jangomes referring to Assam.--E.]
[Footnote 430: Fitch here repeats the ridiculous, story respecting the
fabrication of musk, already given by Cesar Frederick.--E.]
[Footnote 431: Certainly Ambergris, the origin of which from the
Spermaceti whale has been formerly noticed in this work.--E.]
Rubies, sapphires and spinels are found in Pegu. Diamonds are found in
several places, as in Bisnagur, Agra, Delhi, and the Javan islands. The
best pearls come from the isle of Bahrein in the gulf of Persia; and an
inferior sort from the fisheries near Ceylon, and from Ainan, a large
island off the southern coast of China. Spodium and many other drugs
come from Cambaia or Gujrat, commonly called Guzerat.
SECTION III.
_Supplement to the Journey of Fitch_[432].
INTRODUCTION.
In Hakluyt's collection, p. 235--376, are given letters from queen
Elizabeth to Akbar Shah, Mogul emperor of Hindostan, called there
Zelabdim Echebar, king of Cambaia, and to the king or emperor of China,
dated 1583. These are merely complimentary, and for the purpose of
recommending John Newbery and his company to the protection and favour
of these eastern sovereigns, in case of visiting their dominions; and
need not therefore be inserted in this place. The following articles
however, are of a different description, consisting of several letters
from John Newbery and Ralph Fitch to different friends in England; and
of an extract from the work of John Huighen Van Linschoten, who was in
Goa in December 1583, upon their arrival at that emporium of the
Portuguese trade in India, affording a full confirmation of the
authenticity of the expedition thus far.--E.
[Footnote 432: Hakluyt, II. 375--381. and 399--402.]
No. 1.--_Letter from Mr John Newbery to Mr Richard Hakluyt of Oxford,
author of the Voyages, &c._
Right well beloved, and my assured good friend, I heartily commend me
unto you, hoping that you are in good health, &c. After we set sail from
Gravesend on the 13th of February, we remained on our coast till the
11th of March, when we sailed from Falmouth, and never anchored till our
arrival in the road of Tripoli in Syria, on the 30th of April. After
staying fourteen days there, we came to this place, Aleppo, on the 20th
of this present month of May, where we have now been eight days, and in
five or six days, with Gods help, we go from hence towards the Indies.
Since my arrival at Tripoli, I have made diligent inquiry, both there
and here, for the book of Cosmography of Abulfeda Ismael, but cannot
hear of it. Some say that it may possibly be had in Persia; but I shall
not fail to make inquiry for it both in Babylon and Balsara, [Bagdat and
Basora] and if I can find it in either of these places, shall send it
you from thence. The letter which you gave me to copy out, which came
from Mr Thomas Stevens in Goa, as also the note you gave me of Francis
Fernandez the Portuguese, I brought away with me inadvertantly among
other writings; both of which I now return you inclosed.
Great preparations are making here for the wars in Persia; and already
is gone from hence the pacha of a town called _Rahemet_, and shortly
after the pachas of Tripoli and Damascus are to follow; but they have
not in all above 6000 men. They go to a town called _Asmerome_,
[Erzerum] three days journey from Trebesond, where they are to meet with
sundry captains and soldiers from Constantinople and other places, to go
altogether into Persia. This year many men go for these wars, as has
been the case every year since they began, now about eight years, but
very few return again; although they have had the advantage over the
Persians, and have won several castles and strong holds in that country.
Make my hearty commendations to Mr Peter Guillame, Mr Philip Jones, Mr
Walter Warner, and all the rest of our friends. Mr Fitch sends his
hearty commendations; and so I commit you to the tuition of Almighty
God, whom I pray to bless and keep you, and send us a joyful meeting.
From Aleppo, the 28th of May 1583.
Your loving friend to command in all that I may, JOHN NEWBERY.
No. 2.--_Letter from Mr John Newbery to Mr Leonard Poore of London_.
My last was sent you on the 25th of February last from Deal out of the
Downs, after which, in consequence, of contrary winds, we remained on
the coast of England till the 11th March, when we sailed from Falmouth.
The 13th the wind came contrary with a great storm, by which some of our
goods were wet; but, God be thanked, no great hurt was done. After this,
we sailed with a fair wind within the Straits, continuing our voyage and
anchoring no where till the 30th of April, when we arrived in the road
of Tripoli in Syria, which was a good passage, God make us thankful for
it. We left Tripoli on the 14th of this month of May, and arrived here
at Aleppo on the 20th; and with Gods help we begin our voyage to-morrow
for Bagdat and Basora, and so to India.
Our friend Mr Barret, commendeth him to you, and sent you a _ball_
[bale?] of nutmegs in the Emanuel, for the small trifles you sent him,
which I hope you have long since received. He has also by his letter
informed you how he sold these things, whereof I say nothing, neither
having seen the account nor demanded it; for, ever since our coming
hither, he has been constantly occupied about the dispatch of the ship
and about our voyage, and I likewise in purchasing things here to carry
to Basora and India. We have bought coral to the value of 1200 ducats,
amber for 400, and some soap and broken glass and other small matters,
which I hope will serve well for the places we are going to. All the
rest of the account of the bark Reinolds was sent home in the Emanuel,
which amounted to 3600 ducats, being L.200 more than they were rated; as
Mr Staper rated them at L.1100, and it is L.1300; so that our part is
L.200, besides such profit as it shall please God to send thereof;
wherefore you would do well to speak to Mr Staper for the account.
If you could resolve to travel for three or four years, I would advise
you to come here, or to go to Cairo, if any go there. For we doubt not,
if you were to remain here three or four months, you would like the
place so well, that I think you would not desire to return in less than
three or four years; as, were it my chance to remain in any place out of
England, I would choose this before all other that I know. My reason is,
that the place is healthful and pleasant, and the profits good; and
doubtless the profits will be better hereafter, things being carried on
in an orderly manner. In every ship, the fourth part of her cargo should
come in money, which would help to put off the rest of our commodities
at a good price. It were also proper that two good ships should come
together, for mutual assistance, in which case the danger of the voyage
would be as little as from London to Antwerp.
Mr Giles Porter and Mr Edmund Porter went from Tripoli in a small bark
to Jaffa, the same day that we came from thence, which was the 14th of
this month of May, so that I have no doubt they are long since in
Jerusalem. God send them and us a safe return. At this instant, I have
received the account from Mr Barret, and the rest of the rings, with 22
ducats and 2 medins in ready money; so there remaineth nothing in his
hands but a few books, and I left certain small trifles with Thomas
Bostocke, which I pray you to demand. From Aleppo, the 29th May 1583.
No. 3.--_Letter from Mr John Newbery to the same_.
My last was of the 29th May from Aleppo, sent by George Gill, purser of
the Tiger. We left that place on the 31st, and came to Feluchia, which
is one days journey from Babylon [Bagdat,] on the 19th of June. Yet some
of our company came not hither till the 30th of June, for want of camels
to carry our goods; for by reason of the great heats at this time of the
year, camels are very hard to be got. Since our coming here we have
found very scanty sales, but are told our commodities will sell well in
winter, which I pray God may be the case. I think cloth, kersies, and
tin have never been here so low as now. Yet, if I had here as much ready
money as our goods are worth, I would not doubt to make a very good
profit of the voyage here and at Basora, and as it is, with Gods help,
there will be reasonable profit made of the adventure. But, with half
money and half commodities, the best sort of spices and other
merchandise from India, may be bought at reasonable rates, while without
money there is very little to be done here at this time to purpose. Two
days hence, God willing, I purpose going from hence to Basora, and from
thence I must necessarily go to Ormus, for want of a man who speaks the
Indian tongue. While at Aleppo, I hired two Nazarenes, one of whom has
been twice in India, and speaks the language well; but he is a very lewd
fellow, wherefore I will not take him with me.
The following are the prices of wares, as they are worth here at
present: Cloves and mace the _bateman_, 5 ducats; cinnamon, 6 ducats,
and very little to be had; ginger, 40 medins; pepper, 75 medins;
turbetta[433], 50 medins; neel [or indigo,] the _churle_ 70 ducats: the
churle is 27-1/2 rotils of Aleppo; silk, much better than that which
comes from Persia, 11-1/2 ducats the bateman, each bateman being 7
pounds 5 ounces English. From Bagdat this 20th July 1583.
[Footnote 433: Most likely turmeric, anciently called turbith vegetable,
in contradistinction to turbith mineral, so named from its yellow colour
resembling turbith or turmeric.--E.]
No. 4.--_Letter from, John Newbery to Messrs John Eldred and William
Scales at Basora_.
Time will not permit to give you an account of my voyage after my
departure from you. But on the 4th day of this present September, we
arrived here at Ormus; and the 10th day I and the rest were committed to
prison. The middle of next month, or thereabout, the captain proposes
sending us all in his ship to Goa. The cause for which we have been
imprisoned is said to be, because we brought letters from Don Antonio:
But the truth is, Michael Stropene is the only cause, through letters
written to him by his brother from Aleppo. God knows how we may be dealt
with at Goa; and therefore, if you our masters can procure that the king
of Spain may send his letters for our release, you would do us great
good, for they cannot with any justice put us to death, though it may be
that they will cut our throats, or keep us long in prison. Gods will be
done.
All the commodities I brought to this place had been well sold, if this
trouble had not come upon us. You shall do well to send a messenger in
all speed by land from Basora to Aleppo, to give notice of this
mischance, even though it may cost 30 or 40 crowns, that we may be the
sooner released, and I shall thereby be the better able to recover again
what is now like to be lost. From prison in Ormus, this 21st September
1583.
No. 5.--_Letter Mr J. Newbery to Messrs Eldred and Scales_.
The bark of the Jews is arrived here two days ago, by which I am sure
you wrote; but your letters are not likely to come to my hands. The
bringer of this hath shewed me very great courtesy, for which I pray
you to shew him what favour you can. About the middle of next month, I
think we shall depart from hence: God be our guide. I think Andrew will
go by land to Aleppo; and I pray you to further him what you may: But,
if he should not go, then I pray you to dispatch a messenger in all
speed. I can say no more, but beg you to do for me what I should do for
you in the like case. From prison in Ormus, the 24th September 1583.
No. 6.--_Letter from Mr Newbery to Mr Leonard Poore_.
My last from Ormus certified you what had happened to me there, with the
rest of my company; as in four days after our arrival we were all
committed to prison, except one Italian, who came with me from Aleppo,
whom the captain never examined, except asking what countryman he was;
but I believe Michael Stropene, who accused us, had informed the captain
of him. The first day of our arrival at Ormus, this Stropene accused us
of being spies for Don Antonio, besides diverse other lies; yet if we
had been of any other country than England, we might freely have traded
with them. Although we be Englishmen, I know no reason why we may not as
well trade from place to place as the natives of other countries; for
all nations may and do come freely to Ormus, as Frenchmen, Flemings,
Germans, Hungarians, Italians, Greeks, Armenians, Nazarenes, Turks,
Moors, Jews, and Gentiles, Persians, and Muscovites. In short, there is
no nation they seek to trouble, but only ours; wherefore it were
contrary to all justice and reason that they should suffer all nations
to trade with them, and forbid us. Now indeed I have as great liberty as
those of any other nation, except it be to leave the country, which as
yet I desire not. But hereafter, and I think ere long, if I shall be
desirous to go from hence, that they will not refuse me licence. Before
we were suffered to come out of prison, I was forced to put in sureties
for 2000 pardaos, not to depart from hence without licence of the
viceroy; and except this, we have now as much liberty as any one, for I
have got back our goods, and have taken a house in the chiefest street
called the _Rue drette_, where we sell our goods.
There were two causes which moved the captain of Ormus to imprison us,
and afterwards to send us to Goa. The first was because Michael Stropene
had most falsely accused us of many matters. The other was, because when
Mr Drake was at the Molucca islands, he caused two pieces of cannon to
be fired at a Portuguese galeon belonging to the king, at least so they
allege. But of these things I did not know when at Ormus. In the same
ship which brought us to Goa, came the chief justice of Ormus, called
the veedor general of that place, who had been there three years, so
that his time was expired. This veedor is a great friend to the captain
of Ormus, and sent for me into his chamber, one day after coming here to
Goa, and began to demand many things at me, to which I made answers.
Among other things, he said that Mr Drake had been sent out of England
with many ships, and had gone to Molucca where he loaded cloves, and
finding a Portuguese galeon there belonging to the king, had shot two
pieces of his great ordnance against her. Perceiving this grieved them
much, I asked if they meant to be revenged on me for what had been done
by Mr Drake: To which he answered no; though his meaning was yes.
He said moreover, that the captain of Ormus had sent me to Goa, that the
viceroy might learn the news from me respecting Don Antonio, and whether
he were in England or not; and that it might possibly be all for the
best my being sent hither; which I trust in God may so fall out, though
contrary to his expectation and intention: For, if it had not pleased
God to influence the minds of the archbishop, and two padres or Jesuits
of the college of St Paul, to stand our friends, we might have rotted in
prison. The archbishop is a very good man, who has two young men in his
service, one called Bernard Borgers born in Hamburgh, and the other
named John Linscot[434], a native of Enkhuysen, who did us especial
service; for by them the archbishop was often reminded of our case. The
two good fathers who laboured so much for us were padre Mark, a native
of Bruges in Flanders, and padre Thomas Stevens[435], born in Wiltshire
in England. I chanced likewise to fall in with here a young man, Francis
de Rea, who was born in Antwerp, but was mostly brought up in London,
with whom I became acquainted in Aleppo, who also has done me much
service.
[Footnote 434: John Huighen van Linschoten, the author of the book
respecting the East Indies, formerly quoted, and from which a second
quotation will be given in this supplement.--E.]
[Footnote 435: This is he whose letter to his father from Goa has been
already inserted, and who was sometime of New College in
Oxford.--Hakluyt.]
We remained many days in prison at Ormus, and were a long while at sea
coming hither. Immediately on our arrival at this place we were sent to
prison, whence next day we were brought before the chief justice or
veedor, to be examined, after which we were remanded to prison. When we
had been thirteen days in prison, James Storie, the painter who
accompanied us, went into the monastery of St Paul, where he remains,
being made one of the company, which life he seems to like[436]. Upon St
Thomas day, 12th December, 22 days after our arrival here, I was
liberated from prison, and the next day Ralph Fitch and William
Bets[437] came out.
[Footnote 436: It will appear afterwards that he did not continue.--E.]
[Footnote 437: In the narrative of Fitch no such name occurs, but
William Leedes jeweller, is named as one of the party. Perhaps he ought
to have been named by Fitch, William Bets of Leeds.--E.]
If these troubles had not occurred, I think I was in a fair way of
making as good a voyage as was ever made with such a sum of money. Many
of our things I sold very well, both here and at Ormus while in prison,
although the captain of Ormus wished me to have sold all I had before I
embarked; so, by his permission, I went sundry times from the castle in
the mornings, accompanied by officers, and sold things, and returned
again at night to prison. They wrote down every thing that I sold; and
at my embarking, the captain directed me to deliver all my money and
goods into the hands of the _scrivano_ or purser of the ship, which I
did, and the scrivano left an acknowledgement with the captain, that
myself with the money and goods should be delivered up to the veedor
general in India. But on our arrival here, the veedor would not meddle
with either money or goods, seeing that no crime was substantiated
against us: Wherefore the goods remained in the ship nine or ten days
after our arrival; and then, as the ship was to sail from thence, the
scrivano sent the goods on shore, where they remained a day and a night
without any one to receive them. In the end, they permitted the bearer
of this letter to receive them, who put them into a house which he hired
for me, in which they remained four or five days. When afterwards they
ought to have delivered the money, it was ordered by the _veedor_, that
both the money and goods should be given into the custody of the
_positor_, where they remained for fourteen days after I was liberated
from prison.
When in Aleppo, I bought a fountain of silver gilt, six knives, six
spoons, and one fork, all trimmed with coral, for 25 chekins, which the
captain of Ormus took to himself and only paid 20 pardaos, or 100
larines, though they were worth there or here at Goa 100 chekins. Also
he had five emeralds set in gold, worth five or six hundred crowns, for
which he only paid 100 pardaos. He likewise took 19-1/2 pikes of cloth,
which cost 20 shillings the pike at London, and was worth 9 or 10 crowns
the pike at Ormus, for which he only paid 12 larines. He also had two
pieces of green kersie, worth 24 pardaos each; besides divers other more
trifling articles which he and the officers took at similar inferior
prices, and some for nothing at all. But the real cause of all was
Michal Stropene, who came to Ormus without a penny, and is now worth
thirty or forty thousand crowns, and is grieved that any stranger should
trade there but himself. But that shall not avail him; for I trust yet
to go both hither and thither, and to buy and sell as freely as he or
any other.
There is a great deal of good to be done here in divers of our
commodities; and likewise there is much profit to be made with the
commodities of this country, when carried to Aleppo. It were long for me
to write, and tedious for you to read, all the incidents which have
occurred to me since we parted; but the bearer is able to inform you of
every thing that has befallen me since my arrival in Ormus. It is my
intention to remain here in Goa; wherefore, if you write me, you may
send your letters to some friend in Lisbon, to be forwarded from thence
by the India ships. Let your direction, therefore be in Portuguese or
Spanish, by which they will the more readily reach me.--From Goa, this
20th of January 1584.
No, 7.--_Letter from Mr Ralph Fitch to Mr Leonard Poore_.
Loving friend, &c. Since my departure from Aleppo, I have not written
you, because at Bagdat I was ill of flux, and continued in all the way
thence to Basora, which was twelve days journey down the Tigris, when we
had extremely hot weather, bad fare, and worse lodging, all of which
increased my disease; besides which our boat was pestered with people.
During eight entire days I hardly eat any thing, so that if we had been
two days longer on the water, I verily believe I had died. But, thanks
be to God, I presently mended after coming to Basora. We remained there
fourteen days, when we embarked for Ormus, where we arrived on the 5th
of September, and were put in prison on the 9th of the same month, where
we continued till the 11th of October, and were then shipt for this city
of Goa, in the ship belonging to the captain of Ormus, with 114
horses[438], and about 200 men. Passing by Diu and Chaul, at which place
we landed on the 20th November, we arrived at Goa on the 29th of that
month, where, for our better entertainment, we were committed to a fair
strong prison, in which we continued till the 22d of December. It
pleased God, that there were two padres there who befriended us, the one
an Englishman named Thomas Stevens, the other a Fleming named Marco,
both Jesuits of the college of St Paul. These good men sued for us to
the viceroy and other officers, and stood us in such good stead as our
lives and goods were worth: But for them, even if we had escaped with
our lives, we must have suffered a long imprisonment.
[Footnote 438: In the narrative of Fitch, called 124, which might easily
be mistaken either way in transcription.--E.]
When we had been fourteen days in prison, they offered us leave to go at
large in the town, if we would give sureties, for 2000 ducats, not to
depart the country without the licence of the viceroy. Being unable to
procure any such, the before mentioned friendly fathers of St Paul
procured sureties for us. The Italians are much offended and displeased
at our enlargement, and many wonder at our delivery. James Storie the
painter has gone into the cloister of St Paul, as one of their order,
and seems to like the situation. While we were in prison, both at Ormus
and here, a great deal of our goods were pilfered and lost, and we have
been at great charges in gifts and otherwise, so that much of our
property is consumed. Of what remains, much will sell very well, and for
some we will get next to nothing. The viceroy is gone to Chaul and Diu
as it is said to win a castle of the Moors, and it is thought he will
return about Easter; when I trust in God we shall procure our liberty,
and have our sureties discharged. It will then, I think, be our best way
for one or both of us to return, as our troubles have been very great,
and because so much of our goods have been spoiled and lost: But if it
should please God that I come to England, I will certainly return here
again. It is a charming country, and extremely fruitful, having summer
almost the whole year, but the most delightful season is about
Christmas. The days and nights are of equal length throughout the whole
year, or with very little difference; and the country produces a most
wonderful abundance of fruit. After all our troubles we are fat and in
good health, for victuals are plentiful and cheap. I omit to inform you
of many strange things till we meet, as it would be too long to write of
them. And thus I commit you to God, &c. From Goa in the East Indies,
25th January 1584.
No. 8.--_The Report of John Huighen van Linschoten, concerning the
imprisonment of Newbery and Fitch; which happened while he was at Goa_.
In the month of December 1583, four Englishmen arrived at Ormus, who
came by way of Aleppo in Syria, having sailed from England by the
Mediterranean to Tripoli, a town and haven in Syria, where all ships
discharge their wares and merchandise for Aleppo, to which they are
carried by land, which is a journey of nine days. In Aleppo there reside
many merchants and factors of all nations, as Italians, French, English,
Armenians, Turks, and Moors, every one following his own religion, and
paying tribute to the grand Turk. It. is a place of great trade, whence
twice every year there go two _cafilas_ or caravans, containing great
companies of people and camels, which travel to India, Persia, Arabia,
and all the adjoining countries, dealing in all kinds of merchandise
both to and from these countries, as I have already declared in another
part of this book.
Three of these Englishmen were sent by the company of English who reside
in Aleppo, to see if they might keep any factors at Ormus, and so
traffic in that place, as the Italians do, that is the Venetians, who
have their factors in Ormus, Goa, and Malacca, and trade there, both for
pearls and precious stones, and for other wares and spices of these
countries, which are carried thence over-land to Venice. One of these
Englishmen, Mr John Newbery, had been once before in the said town of
Ormus, and had there taken good information of the trade; and on his
advice the others were then come hither along with him, bringing great
store of merchandise; such as cloths, saffron, all kinds of drinking
glasses and haberdashery wares, as looking-glasses, knives, and such
like stuff; and to conclude, they brought with them every kind of small
wares that can be thought of.
Although these wares amounted to great sums of money, they were yet only
as a shadow or colour, to give no occasion of mistrust or suspicion, as
their principal intention was to purchase great quantities of precious
stones, as diamonds, pearls, rubies, &c. to which end they brought with
them a great sum of money in silver and gold, and that very secretly,
that they might not be robbed of it, or run into danger on its
account[439]. On their arrival at Ormus, they hired a shop and began to
sell their wares; which being noticed by the Italians, whose factors
reside there as I said before, and fearing if these Englishmen got good
vent for their commodities, that they would become residents and so
daily increase, which would be no small loss and hindrance to them, they
presently set about to invent subtle devices to hinder them. To which
end, they went immediately to the captain of Ormus, who was then Don
Gonzalo de Menezes[440], saying that these Englishmen were heretics come
to spy the country, and that they ought to be examined and punished as
enemies, for a warning to others. Being friendly to these Englishmen, as
one of them had been there before and had given him presents, the
captain could not be prevailed upon to injure them, but shipped them
with all their wares for Goa, sending them to the viceroy, that he might
examine and deal with them as he thought good.
[Footnote 439: This seems a mere adoption of the rumours of the
Italians; as Newbery distinctly complains of the want of cash, by which
he might have made very profitable purchases in Aleppo, Bagdat, and
Basora.--E.]
[Footnote 440: The captain of the castle of Ormus is named Don Mathias
de Albuquerque by Fitch.--E.]
Upon their arrival at Goa, they were cast into prison, and were in the
first place examined whether or not they were good Christians. As they
could only speak very bad Portuguese, while two of them spoke good
Dutch, having resided several years in the low countries, a Dutch Jesuit
who was born at Bruges in Flanders, and had resided thirty years in
India, was sent to them, to undermine and examine them; in which they
behaved so well, that they were holden and esteemed for good and
Catholic Christians; yet were they still suspected, as being strangers
and Englishmen. The Jesuits told them that they would be sent prisoners
into Portugal, and advised them to leave off their trade in merchandise,
and to become Jesuits; promising in return to defend them from all their
troubles. The cause of thus earnestly persuading them was this: The
Dutch Jesuit had been secretly informed that they had great sums of
money, and sought to get that for the order; as the first vow and
promise made on becoming a Jesuit is, to procure and advance the welfare
of the order by every possible means. Although the Englishmen refused
this, saying that they were quite unfit for such matters, yet one of
them, a painter, who came with the other three to see the country and
seek his fortune, and was not sent by the English merchants, partly
through fear, and partly from want of means to relieve himself from
prison, promised to become a Jesuit. And although the fathers knew that
he was not one of those who had the treasure, yet, because he was a
painter, of whom there are few in India, and that they had great need of
one to paint their church, which would cost them great charges to bring
from Portugal, they were very glad of him, and hoped in time to get all
the rest, with all their money, into their fellowship.
To conclude, they made this painter a Jesuit, and he continued some time
in their college, where they gave him plenty of work to perform, and
entertained him with all the favour and friendship they could devise,
all to win the rest to become their prey. But the other three remained
in prison in great fear, because they did not understand any who came to
them, neither did any one understand what they said. They were at last
informed of certain Dutchmen who dwelt with the archbishop, and were
advised to send for them, at which they greatly rejoiced, and sent for
me and another Dutchman, desiring us to come and speak with them, which
we presently did. With tears in their eyes, they complained to us of
their hard usage, explaining to us distinctly, as is said before, the
true cause of their coming to Ormus, and praying us for God's sake to
help them to their liberty upon sureties, declaring themselves ready to
endure whatever could be justly ordained for them, if they were found to
be otherwise than they represented, or different from other travelling
merchants who sought to profit by their wares.
Promising to do our best for them, we at length prevailed on the
archbishop to deliver a petition for them to the viceroy, and persuaded
him to set them at liberty and restore their goods, on condition of
giving security to the amount of 2000 pardaos, not to depart the country
without licence. Thereupon they presently found a citizen who became
their surety in 2000 pardaos, to whom they paid in hand 1300, as they
said they had no more money; wherefore he gave them credit for the rest,
seeing that they had great store of merchandise, through which he might
at any time be satisfied, if needful. By these means they were delivered
out of prison, on which they hired a house, and began to open shop; so
that they sold many of their goods, and were presently well known among
the merchants, as they always respected gentlemen, especially such as
bought their wares, shewing them much honour and courtesy, by which they
won much credit, and were beloved of all men, so that all favoured them,
and were ready to shew them favour. To us they shewed great friendship,
and for our sakes the archbishop favoured them much, and gave them good
countenance, which they well knew how to increase by offering him many
presents, although he would not receive them, as he never accepted gift
or present from any person. They behaved themselves in all things so
discreetly, that no one carried an evil eye or evil thought towards
them. This did not please the Jesuits, as it hindered what they still
wished and hoped for; so that they still ceased not to intimidate them
by means of the Dutch Jesuit, intimating that they would be sent
prisoners to Portugal, and counselling them to become Jesuits in the
cloister of St Paul, when they would be securely defended from all
troubles. The Dutchman pretended to give them this advice as a friend,
and one who knew certainly that it was so determined in the viceroy's
council, and that he only waited till the ship sailed for Portugal;
using this and other devices to put them in fear, and so to effect their
purpose.
The Englishmen durst not say any thing to the contrary, but answered
that they would remain as they were yet a little while and consider
their proposal, thus putting the Jesuits in hopes of their compliance.
The principal of these Englishmen, John Newbery, often complained to me,
saying that he knew not what to think or say of these things, or how
they might get rid of these troubles. In the end, they determined with
themselves to depart from Goa; and secretly, by means of other friends,
they employed their money in the purchase of precious stones, which they
were the better able to effect as one of them was a jeweller, who came
with them for that purpose. Having concluded on this step, they durst
not make it known to any one, not even to us, although they used to
consult us on all occasions and tell us every thing they knew.
On one of the Whitson holidays, they went out to recreate themselves
about three miles from Goa, in the mouth of the river, in a country
called _Bardez_[441], taking with them a supply of victuals and drink.
That they might not be suspected, they left their house and shop, with
same of their wares unsold, in the charge of a Dutch boy whom we had
procured for them, and who remained in their house, quite ignorant of
their intentions. When in Bardez, they procured a _patamer_, one of the
Indian post-boys or messengers who carry letters from place to place,
whom they hired as a guide. Between Bardez and the main-land there is
only a small river, in a manner half dry, which they passed over on
foot, and so travelled away by land, and were never heard of again; but
it is thought they arrived in Aleppo, though no one knows: with
certainty. Their great dependence is upon John Newbery, who can speak
the Arabian language, which is used in all these countries, or at least
understood, being as commonly known in all the east as French is with
us.
[Footnote 441: Bardes is an island a short way north from the island of
Goa, and only divided from the main-land by a small river or creek.--E.]
On the news of their departure being brought to Goa, there was a great
stir and murmuring among the people, as all much wondered. Many were of
opinion that we had counselled them to withdraw, and presently their
surety seized on the remaining goods, which might amount to the value of
200 pardaos; and with that and the money he had received of the
Englishmen, he went to the viceroy, and delivered it to him, the viceroy
forgiving him the rest. This flight of the Englishmen grieved the
Jesuits worst, as they had lost so rich a prey, which they made
themselves secure of. The Dutch Jesuit came to ask us if we knew of
their intentions, saying, if he had suspected as much he would have
dealt differently by them, for he had once in his hands a bag of theirs,
in which were 40,000 _veneseanders_, [442], each worth two pardaos, at
the time when they were in prison. But as they had always given him to
believe he might accomplish his desire of getting them to profess in the
Jesuit college, he had given them their money again, which otherwise
they would not have come by so easily, or peradventure never. This he
said openly, and in the end he called them heretics, spies, and a
thousand other opprobrious names.
[Footnote 442: This word _veneseander_, or venetiander, probably means,
a Venetian chekin.--E.]
When the English painter, who had become a Jesuit, heard that his
countrymen were gone, and found that the Jesuits did not use him with so
great favour as at first, he repented himself; and not having made any
solemn vow, and being counselled to leave their house, he told them that
he made no doubt of gaining a living in the city, and that they had no
right to keep him against his inclination, and as they could not accuse
him of any crime, he was determined not to remain with them. They used
all the means they could devise to keep him in the college, but he would
not stay, and, hiring a house in the city, he opened shop as a painter,
where he got plenty of employment, and in the end married the daughter
of a mestee, so that he laid his account to remain there as long as he
lived. By this Englishman I was instructed in all the ways, trades, and
voyages of the country between Aleppo, and Ormus, and of all the rules
and customs observed in the overland passage, as also of all the towns
and places on the route. Since the departure of these Englishmen from
Goa, there have never arrived any strangers, either English or others,
by land, except Italians, who are constantly engaged in the overland
trade, going and coming continually.
END OF VOLUME SEVENTH.