CHAPTER VII.

ARCHITECTURE.

CHIEF CHARACTERISTICS OF KAFFIR ARCHITECTURE -- PREVALENCE OF THE

CIRCULAR FORM -- INABILITY OF THE KAFFIR TO DRAW A STRAIGHT LINE --

GENERAL FORM OF THE KAFFIR’S HUT -- THE INCREDULITY OF IGNORANCE

-- METHOD OF HOUSE-BUILDING -- PRECAUTION AGAINST INUNDATION --

FEMALE ARCHITECTS -- MODE OF PLANNING A HUT -- KAFFIR OSTENTATION --

FRAGILITY OF THE HUT -- ANECDOTE OF WARFARE -- THE ENRAGED ELEPHANT,

AND A DOMESTIC TRAGEDY -- HOW THE ROOF IS SUPPORTED -- SMOKE AND SOOT

-- THE HURDLE DOOR -- HOW IT IS MADE -- SCREENS FOR KEEPING OFF THE

WIND -- DECORATIONS OF DINGAN’s HOUSE -- AVERAGE FURNITURE OF THE

KAFFIR HUT -- THE KRAAL, ITS PLAN AND PRINCIPLES OF CONSTRUCTION --

KNOWLEDGE OF FORTIFICATION -- CHIEF OBJECT OF THE KRAAL -- TWO MODES

OF MAKING THE FENCE -- THE ABATTIS AND THE CHEVAUX DE FRISE -- SIZE

OF THE KRAAL -- THE KING’S MILITARY KRAAL OR GARRISON TOWN -- VISIT

TO ONE OF PANDA’S KRAALS -- THE HAREM, ITS INMATES AND ITS GUARDIANS.

The architecture of these tribes is very simple, and, although slightly

variable in different localities, is marked throughout by similar

characteristics. On looking at any specimen of Kaffir architecture,

the spectator is at once struck with one peculiarity, namely, that all

his buildings are circular. It is a remarkable fact that the Kaffir

does not seem to be capable of marking out a straight line, and whether

he builds a hut, or erects a fence, he takes the circle as his guide.

A Kaffir’s attempts to erect a square enclosure, or even to build a

fence in a straight line, are ludicrous failures. With Europeans the

case is different. A settler who desires to build a fence wherein to

enclose his garden, or a stockade within which his house and property

can remain in safety, invariably builds on the rectilinear principle,

and makes the fence in the form of a square. He would feel himself

quite fettered if he were forced to build a circular enclosure, whereas

the Kaffir would be as much at a loss if he were obliged to build a

square edifice. Indeed, though the European could, at the cost of some

trouble, build a circular house, and would make his circle true, the

Kaffir would utterly fail in attempting to make a building of a square

or an oblong form.

One of my friends, who has travelled much among the Kaffir tribes,

and gone among villages whose inhabitants had never seen an European

building, told me that it was hardly possible to make the natives

comprehend the structure of an European house. The very shape of it

puzzled them, and the gable ends and the ridged roof seemed so strange

to them as to be scarcely credible. As to the various stories in a

house, several rooms on a story, and staircases which lead from one

to the other, they flatly declined to believe that anything of the

kind could exist, and thought that their guest was trying to amuse

himself at the expense of their credulity. They did believe in the

possibility of St. Paul’s cathedral, on account of its domed roof,

but they could not be induced to believe in its size. They defended

their position by argument, not merely contenting themselves with

assertions. Their chief argument was derived from the impossibility of

such a building sustaining its own weight. The only building materials

of which they had any experience were the posts and sticks of which

their own houses were made, and the reeds wherewith they were thatched.

Sometimes a very luxurious house-owner would plaster the interior with

mud, producing that peculiar style of architecture which is popularly

called “wattle-and-daub.” They could not comprehend in the least that

stone could be used in building dwelling-houses; and the whole system

of cutting stone into rectangular pieces, and the use of bricks, was

equally beyond their comprehension. Mortar also was an inexplicable

mystery, so that on the whole they decided on discrediting the tales

told them by the white man.

[Illustration: KAFFIRS AT HOME. (See page 70.)]

A Kaffir house (see page 155) looks just like an exaggerated beehive.

It is of precisely the same shape, is made of nearly the same

materials, and has a little arched door, just like the entrance of a

beehive, through which a man can barely creep on his hands and knees.

The structure of these huts is very simple. A circle is drawn of some

fourteen feet in diameter, and around it are stuck a number of long,

flexible sticks. These sticks are then bent over at the top and tied

together, so as to form a framework very like a common wire mousetrap.

A reed thatching is then laid over the sticks, and secured in its place

by parallel lashings. These lashings are made of “monkey-ropes,” or

the creepers that extend their interminable length from tree to tree,

and are found of every size, from a cable to a packthread. They twist

themselves into so rope-like a shape, that many persons have refused to

believe that they have not been artificially made. The rows of lashing

are about eighteen inches apart. In shape, the hut is exactly like the

well-known snow house of the Esquimaux.

As, during the wet season, the rain pours down in torrents, the huts

would be swamped for several months but for the precaution which the

natives take of digging round each hut a trench of some eighteen inches

or two feet in depth, and the same in breadth. This trench is about

six inches from the wall of the hut, and serves to keep the floor

dry. The reader may remember that all European soldiers are taught to

dig a trench round each hut while they are under canvas, the neglect

of this precaution being sure to cause both great inconvenience and

unhealthiness.

The woman generally marks the outline of her hut in a very simple

manner. She takes a number of flexible sticks, and ties them together

firmly with leathern thongs, or the rough and ready string which the

Kaffirs make from rushes by tearing them into strips and rolling them

on the leg with the palm of the hand. Three or even four sticks are

usually joined together, in order to attain sufficient length. She

then pushes one end deeply into the ground, bends the other end over

so as to make an arch, and pushes that into the ground also. This arch

becomes the key to the whole building, settling its height and width.

Another arch is set in the ground at right angles to the former, and

the two are lashed together at the top where they cross, so that a

rough kind of skeleton of the hut is made in a very short time.

On the roof of the hut may sometimes be seen the skulls of oxen.

This ornament is highly characteristic of the Kaffir. The high value

which he sets on his cows is not surpassed by the love of the most

confirmed miser for his gold. But there is another trait of the Kaffir

mind, which is even stronger than avarice, and that is ostentation,

to which his cattle become of secondary consideration. Unwilling

as he is to kill any of the cattle which constitute his wealth, and

which he values scarcely less than his own life, he will, on certain

occasions, slaughter one, and give a feast to his neighbors, who are

sure to praise him in terms suitable to the magnificence--_i. e._ the

quantity--of the banquet. He is nearly certain to be addressed as

Father, and perhaps some of the more enthusiastic, when excited by

beef, beer, and snuff, may actually hail him as Chief. The slaughter of

an ox is therefore a great event in the life of a Kaffir, and is sure

to act as a step toward higher rank. Lest the memory of such an event

should fade away as soon as the banquet has been ended, the proud donor

takes the skull of the slaughtered ox and places it on the roof of his

hut, where it remains as a sign that the owner of the dwelling is a man

of property, and has been able to spare one of his oxen to serve as a

feast for his friends.

The building being now finished, the opening which serves as a door is

cut on one side, its edges guarded with plaited twigs, and the Kaffir

desires no better house. Though it has no window, no chimney, and no

door that deserves the name, he would not exchange it for a palace,

and many instances have been known where Kaffirs who have been taken

to European cities, have travelled much, and been tolerably educated,

have flung off their civilized garments, re-assumed the skin-dress of

their nation, and gone off to live in huts instead of houses. The whole

structure is necessarily very fragile, and the walls cannot endure much

violence. A curious example of their fragility occurred some time ago,

when one chief made a raid upon the village of another. A number of men

had taken refuge in a hut, from which it was not easy to drive them.

Assagais were hurled through the sides of the hut, and did much damage

to the inmates. The survivors tried to save themselves by climbing

up the framework of the hut and clinging to the roof, but the slight

structure could not support their bodies, and by yielding to their

weight betrayed them to the watchful enemies without.

The upper illustration on page 63 represents the interior of an

exceptionally large hut, being, in fact, the principal residence of a

chief. Very few huts have more than four supporting posts. On the left

may be seen two of the large store baskets, in which milk is kept and

made into “amasi,” while just beyond the first basket is a sleeping

mat rolled up and resting against the wall. Some large earthenware

pots, such as are used in cookery, are seen at the farther end of the

hut, and a calabash rests against one of the posts. To the roof are

hung bunches of maize, according to the curious Kaffir custom, which

seems to ignore the fact that every thing on the roof of a hut is soon

blackened with soot, owing to the smoke from the fire. Whether large

or small, all the houses are made on exactly the same principle, and

except for their superior size, and the ox skulls which decorate them,

the houses occupied by chiefs have nothing to distinguish them from

those which are inhabited by their dependants.

Against brute foes the hut is sometimes but a frail protection. On one

occasion an elephant was attracted by a quantity of millet, which was

stored within a fence. He pushed his way through the useless barrier,

and began feeding on the millet. There was a fire in one of the huts,

and the elephant, instead of being scared by it, became angry, knocked

the house to pieces, and walked over the ruins, trampling to death a

woman who was lying asleep. Her husband nearly shared the same fate,

but managed to roll out of the way, and then to escape by creeping

between the legs of the angry elephant.

The roof of the hut is not wholly dependent for support on the flexible

sticks which form its walls, but is held up by a post or two, on the

top of which is laid a cross-beam. This arrangement also permits the

owner of the hut to hang to the beam and posts sundry articles which

he does not wish to be injured by being thrown on the ground, such as

gourds, baskets, assagai-shafts, spoons, and other implements.

Ranged carelessly round the hut are the rude earthenware pots, in

which the Kaffir keeps his beer, his milk, and present stores of

grain. The floor of the hut is always kept scrupulously clean, and is

generally as hard as stone, being made of well-kneaded clay laid very

smoothly, and beaten until it is quite hard. The best clay for this

purpose is obtained from the nests of the white ant, which are beaten

to pieces, then pounded, and then mixed very carefully with water. In

a well-regulated hut, the women are very careful of their floor, and

rub it daily with flat stones, until it is not only smooth, but even

polished.

Just within the entrance is the primitive fireplace. This, like almost

everything which the Kaffir makes, is circular in form, and is made

usually of mud; its only object is to confine the embers within a

limited space.

Cooking is not always carried on in the ordinary house, nor is the fire

kept constantly. In a permanent kraal there are cooking huts erected

for that one special purpose, and not used for any other. They may be

called demi-huts, as their only object is to guard the fire from the

effect of wind. They are circular, like all ordinary huts, but their

walls are only four feet or so in height, and are carefully daubed

with a mixture of clay and cowdung, so as to form a most efficient

protection against the wind. The smoke from the fire is allowed to

escape as it can. Some of it contrives to force its way between

the interstices of the thatch, as may be seen by reference to the

illustration on page 63. Some of it circles around the walls and pours

through the door-way, but the greater part of it settles, in the form

of soot, upon the interior of the hut, blackening everything within it.

When the Kaffirs wish to season the wood of their assagai-shafts or

knobkerries, they stick it into the roof of the house, just above the

fireplace, exactly as bacon is cured in the smoke.

A curious reference to this custom is made in a song composed in honor

of Panda, King of the Zulu tribes. When Dingan murdered his predecessor

Tchaka, he killed other chiefs at the same time, but was persuaded to

leave Panda alive--

“Of the stock of Ndabitza, ramrod of brass,

Survivor alone of all other rods;

Others they broke, _but left this in the soot_,

Thinking to burn it some rainy cold day.”

Reference is here made to the custom of leaving sticks and shafts in

the sooty roof.

At night, the entrance of the hut is closed by a simple door made of

wicker work, and looking much like the closely-woven sheep hurdles

which are used in some parts of England. With the exception that the

Kaffir always sits down at his work, the mode of making these doors is

almost identical with that which is employed by the shepherds in this

country.

The Kaffir begins by choosing some straight and tolerably stout sticks,

and driving them into the ground at regular distances from each other.

These are intended as the supports or framework of the door. He then

takes a quantity of pliant sticks, like the osiers of our basket

makers, and weaves them in and out of the upright stakes, beating them

down continually to make them lie closely together. When the door is

completed, the upright sticks are cut off to the proper length, and it

can then be fitted to the hut. If the reader has any acquaintance with

military affairs, he may remember that gabions are made in precisely

the same manner, except that the upright stakes are placed in a circle,

and not in a straight line. In order to keep the wind from blowing too

freely into their huts, the Kaffirs make screens, which are placed so

as to shelter the entrance. These screens are made of sticks and rushes

such as the door is made of, only of lighter materials, and their

position can be shifted with every change of wind.

Some of the permanent houses are built with a great amount of care,

and occupy at least a month in their construction. In most of them the

interior view is much the same, namely, the domed roof, supported by

four posts placed in the form of a square, with the fireplace exactly

in the centre. The natives will often expend much time and trouble in

decorating their permanent mansions, and Mr. Christie tells me that he

has seen the very posts thickly encrusted with beads. Of course they

soon become blackened by the smoke, but a quick rub of the palm of

the hand brings out the colors anew. One of Dingan’s huts, which was

visited by Retief, the Dutch colonist, was most beautifully built, and

supported by twenty-two pillars, each of which was entirely covered

with beads.

The huts are, from the nature of the material of which they are made,

exceedingly inflammable, and it sometimes happens that if one of the

houses of a village take fire, the whole of them are consumed in

a very short time. Fortunately, they are so easily built that the

inconvenience is not nearly so great as is the case when European

houses are burned. Moreover, the furniture which they contain is so

limited in quantity and so simple in material, that it can be replaced

without much difficulty. A mat or two, a few baskets, a pillow, a

milking pail, one or two rude earthenware pots, and a bundle of

assagais, constitute an amount of property which is not to be found in

every hut.

The huts of the Kaffirs are generally gathered together into little

groups, which are popularly called “kraals.” This is not a Zulu or a

Hottentot word, and is probably a corruption of the word “corral.”

There are two modes of forming a kraal, and the particular mode is

determined by the locality. The Kaffir tribes generally like to place

their kraal on the side of a hill in the vicinity of the bush, in order

that they may obtain plenty of building material. They are, however,

sufficiently acquainted with the principles of fortification to clear

a large space around their dwellings, so that, in case they should be

attacked, the enemy cannot conceal his movements from the defenders.

The first care of a Kaffir is to protect his beloved cows, and for

that purpose a circular space is enclosed with a high fence, made very

strongly. The fence is about six or seven feet in height, and is made

in a simple and very effective manner. The fence which surrounds the

cattle and the huts is mostly made in one of two modes--at all events,

in the more southern part of the country, where timber is exceedingly

plentiful. The tribes on the north of Kaffirland, who live where timber

is comparatively scarce, build their walls of large stones piled on one

another, without any mortar, or even mud, to fill up the interstices.

The southern tribes use nothing but wood, and form the walls by two

different methods. That which is commonly employed is very simple.

A number of trees are felled, and their trunks severed a few feet

below the spot whence the branches spring. A great number of these

tree tops are then arranged in a circle, the severed ends of the stems

being inward, and the branches pointing outward. In fact, the fence is

exactly that species of rapid and effective fortification called, in

military language, an “abattis.” If the branches of a tree are very

large, they can be laid singly on the ground, just as if they were the

entire heads of trees.

In some cases, where the kraal is more carefully built, the fence is

formed of stout poles, which are driven into the ground, in a double

row, some three feet apart, and are then lashed together in such a way

that their tops cross each other. In consequence of this arrangement,

the fence stands very firmly on its broad basis, while the crossing and

projecting tops of the poles form a _chevaux de frise_ as effectual as

any that is made by the European soldier. If the enemy try to climb the

fence, they can be wounded by spears thrust at them from the interior;

and if they succeed in reaching the top, the sharp tips of the poles

are ready to embarrass them.

The entrance to this enclosure is just wide enough to allow a cow to

pass; and in some places, where the neighborhood is insecure, it is

so narrow that there hardly seems to be space enough for the cattle

to pass in and out. Each night it is carefully closed with poles and

sticks, which are kept just within the entrance, so as to be ready

to hand when wanted. Opposite to the entrance, and at the further

extremity, a small enclosure, also with circular walls, is built. In

this pen the larger calves are kept, the younger being inmates of

the huts, together with the human inhabitants. By the side of this

enclosure a little gap is left in the fence, just large enough for a

man to squeeze himself through, and not large enough to allow even a

calf to pass. This little aperture is the chief’s private door, and

intended for the purpose of saving time, as otherwise, if the chief

were inspecting his cattle, and wished to go to his own hut, he would

be obliged to walk all round the fence. The Zulu name for the space

within this fence is “isi-baya.”

Around the isi-baya are set the huts which constitute the kraal. Their

number is exceedingly variable, but the general average is from ten

to fourteen. Those which are placed at either side of the entrance to

the isi-baya are devoted to the servants, while that which is exactly

opposite to it is the habitation of the chief man. There are mostly a

great many kraals belonging to one tribe, and it often happens that

several neighboring kraals are all tenanted by the members of one

family and their dependants. For example, when the son of a chief

attains sufficient consequence to possess several wives and a herd

of cattle, he finds that the paternal kraal is not large enough to

afford to each wife the separate hut to which she is entitled; so he

migrates with his family to a short distance, and there builds a kraal

for himself, sometimes so close to that of his father that he connects

them by means of a short fenced passage. The chief hut may easily be

known, not only by its position, but by its larger dimensions. Some of

the other huts are occupied by married men, some by his wives, some by

his servants; while at least one hut is reserved for the use of the

unmarried men, or “boys,” as they are called.

This is all that is needed to complete a kraal, _i. e._ the circular

isi-baya, and the huts round it. But, in situations where plenty of

wood can be found, the Kaffir architect erects a second fence, which

encloses all the huts, as well as the isi-baya, and has its entrance

in exactly the same position, _i. e._ opposite to the chief’s hut. The

distant view of one of these doubly-fenced kraals, when it happens to

be situated on the slope of a hill, is extremely curious, and would

scarcely give a stranger an idea of a village.

It will be seen in an engraving opposite, that the central portion of

the kraal is given to the isi-baya, and that the Kaffirs devote all

their energies toward preserving their cows, while they seem to look

with comparative indifference on the risk of exposing themselves or

their fragile huts to the inroads of the enemy. As has already been

stated, the size of the kraal varies with the wealth and rank of its

chief man, and, owing to its mode of construction, can be gradually

enlarged as he rises to higher dignities and the possession of more

cattle. In shape, however, and the principle of construction, kraals

are alike, that of the king himself and the newly-made kraal of a

younger son being exactly the same in these respects.

The king’s kraals, however, are of enormous dimensions, and are several

in number. Panda, for example, has one kraal, the central enclosure

of which is nearly a mile in diameter. This enclosure is supposed to

be filled with the monarch’s cows, and is consequently called by the

name of isi-baya. Practically, however, the cattle are kept in smaller

enclosures, arranged along the sides of the isi-baya, where they can be

watched by those who have the charge of them, and whose huts are placed

conveniently for that purpose. The vast central enclosure is used

almost exclusively as a parade ground, where the king can review his

troops, and where they are taught to go through the simple manœuvres

of Kaffir warfare. Here, also, he may be seen in council, the isi-baya

being able, to accommodate an unlimited number of suitors.

Around the isi-baya are arranged the huts of the warriors and their

families, and are placed in four or even five-fold ranks; so that the

kraal almost rises to the dignity of a town, having several thousand

inhabitants, and presenting a singularly imposing appearance when

viewed at a distance. At the upper portion of the kraal, and at the

further end from the principal entrance, are the huts specially erected

for the king, surrounded by the other huts containing his harem. The

whole of this part of the kraal is separated from the remainder by

lofty and strong fences, and its doors are kept by sentinels especially

set aside for this purpose. In some cases, the warriors to whom this

important duty is confided are not permitted to wear clothes of any

kind, and are compelled to pass the whole of the time, day and night,

when on guard, without even a kaross to cover them. This rule lies

rather heavily upon them in the winter nights, when the cold is often

severe, and the wind sweeps chillily around the fence of the isi-baya.

However, the young ladies will sometimes contrive to evade the

vigilance of the sentries, when their attention is otherwise engaged,

as is amusingly shown in a few remarks by Mr. Angas. He had gone by

Panda’s invitation to see him at one of his great kraals:--“Last night

we slept at the new military kraal, or garrison town, of Indabakaumbi,

whither the king had sent word by message that he would be waiting to

receive us. The Inkosikasi, or queen, of the kraal sent us a small

quantity of thick milk and a jar of millet, and soon afterward made her

appearance, holding two of the king’s children by the hand, for whom

she requested a present of beads. The children were remarkably pretty,

nicely oiled, and tastefully decorated with girdles of blue and scarlet

beads. The old lady, on the contrary, was so alarmingly stout, that it

seemed almost impossible for her to walk; and that it required some

considerable time for her to regain the harem at the upper end of the

kraal was made manifest by some fifty of the king’s girls effecting

their escape from the rear of the seraglio, and sallying down the slope

to stare at us as we rode away from the kraal. The agility of the young

ladies, as they sprang from rock to rock, convinced us that they would

be all quietly sitting in the harem, as though nothing had happened,

long before the Inkosikasi gained her dwelling.”

At that time Panda had thirteen of these great military kraals,

each serving as the military capital of a district, and he had just

completed a fourteenth. He takes up his residence in these kraals

successively, and finds in each everything that he can possibly

want--each being, indeed, almost identical in every respect with all

the others. As a general rule, each of these military kraals forms the

residence of a single regiment; while the king has many others, which

are devoted to more peaceful objects.

[Illustration: (1.) INTERIOR OF KAFFIR HUT. (See page 59.)]

[Illustration: (2.) KAFFIR KRAAL. (See page 62.)]

It has already been mentioned that the women live in a portion

separated from the rest of the kraal, and it may almost be said that

they reside in a small supplementary kraal, which communicates by gates

with the chief edifice. As the gates are strongly barred at night, it

is necessary that the sentinel should enter the sacred precincts of the

harem, for the purpose of closing them at night, and opening them in

the morning. For this purpose, certain individuals of the sentinels are

told off, and to them alone is the delicate duty confided. The Kaffir

despot does not employ for this purpose the unfortunate individuals who

guard the harems in Turkey, Persia, and even in Western Africa. But the

king takes care to select men who are particularly ill-favored; and

if any of them should happen to be deformed, he is sure to be chosen

as a janitor. Mr. Shooter’s servant, when talking with his master on

the subject, mentioned several individuals who would make excellent

janitors. One of them had a club-foot, another had a very protuberant

chest, while a third had bad eyes, and was altogether so ugly that he

would never succeed in procuring a wife. The matrimonial adventures of

this man will be narrated in a future page. His uniform failures in

procuring a legitimate wife were exceedingly ludicrous and mortifying,

and quite justified the opinion expressed by his companion.

The uncivilized races of men in all countries of the world; vol. 1 of 2 Being a comprehensive account of their manners and customs, and of their physical, social, mental, moral and religious characteristics · 第 7 / 75 章