again see the mighty changes which it has effected. The waters have now
been carried into the distant ocean. The earth is everywhere covered by
a deep deposit of muddy loam, which in drying splits into deep and
narrow chasms, presenting a reticulated appearance, and from which, as
the weather becomes warmer, disagreeable, and at times noxious,
exhalations arise, and fill the lower stratum of the atmosphere as with
a dense fog. The banks of the river have almost everywhere been broken
down in a greater or less degree. Large streams are now found to exist,
where none were formerly to be seen, having forced their way in direct
lines from the upper parts of the bends. These are by the navigator
called _short-cuts_. Some of them have proved large enough to produce a
change in the navigation of the Mississippi. If I mistake not, one of
these, known by the name of the _Grand Cut-off_, and only a few miles in
length, has diverted the river from its natural course, and has
shortened it by fifty miles. The upper parts of the islands present a
bulwark consisting of an enormous mass of floated trees of all kinds,
which have lodged there. Large sand-banks have been completely removed
by the impetuous whirls of the waters, and have been deposited in other
places. Some appear quite new to the eye of the navigator, who has to
mark their situation and bearings in his log-book. The trees on the
margins of the banks have in many parts given way. They are seen bending
over the stream, like the grounded arms of an overwhelmed army of
giants. Everywhere are heard the lamentations of the farmer and planter,
whilst their servants and themselves are busily employed in repairing
the damages occasioned by the floods. At one crevasse an old ship or
two, dismantled for the purpose, are sunk, to obstruct the passage
opened by the still rushing waters, while new earth is brought to fill
up the chasms. The squatter is seen shouldering his rifle, and making
his way through the morass, in search of his lost stock, to drive the
survivors home, and save the skins of the drowned. New fences have
everywhere to be formed; even new houses must be erected, to save which
from a like disaster, the settler places them on an elevated platform
supported by pillars made by the trunks of trees. The land must be
ploughed anew, and if the season is not too far advanced, a crop of corn
and potatoes may yet be raised. But the rich prospects of the planter
are blasted. The traveller is impeded in his journey, the creeks and
smaller streams having broken up their banks in a degree proportionate
to their size. A bank of sand, which seems firm and secure, suddenly
gives way beneath the traveller's horse, and the next moment the animal
has sunk in the quicksand, either to the chest in front, or over the
crupper behind, leaving its master in a situation not to be envied.
Unlike the mountain torrents and small rivers of other parts of the
world, the Mississippi rises but slowly during these floods, continuing
for several weeks to increase at the rate of about an inch a day. When
at its height, it undergoes little fluctuation for some days, and after
this, subsides as slowly as it rose. The usual duration of a flood is
from four to six weeks, although, on some occasions, it is protracted to
two months.
Every one knows how largely the idea of floods and cataclysms enters
into the speculations of the geologist. If the streamlets of the
European continent afford illustrations of the formation of strata, how
much more must the Mississippi, with its ever-shifting sand-banks, its
crumbling shores, its enormous masses of drift timber, the source of
future beds of coal, its extensive and varied alluvial deposits, and its
mighty mass of waters rolling sullenly along, like the flood of
eternity.
THE SQUATTERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI
Although every European traveller who has glided down the Mississippi,
at the rate of ten miles an hour, has told his tale of the squatters,
yet none has given any other account of them, than that they are "a
sallow, sickly looking sort of miserable beings," living in swamps, and
subsisting on pig-nuts, Indian-corn, and Bear's-flesh. It is obvious,
however, that none but a person acquainted with their history, manners,
and condition, can give any real information respecting them.
The individuals who become squatters, choose that sort of life of their
own free will. They mostly remove from other parts of the United States,
after finding that land has become too high in price, and they are
persons who, having a family of strong and hardy children, are anxious
to enable them to provide for themselves. They have heard from good
authorities that the country extending along the great streams of the
West, is of all parts of the Union, the richest in its soil, the growth
of its timber, and the abundance of its game; that, besides, the
Mississippi is the great road to and from all the markets in the world;
and that every vessel borne by its waters affords to settlers some
chance of selling their commodities, or of exchanging them for others.
To these recommendations is added another, of even greater weight with
persons of the above denomination, namely, the prospect of being able to
settle on land, and perhaps to hold it for a number of years, without
purchase, rent or tax of any kind. How many thousands of individuals in
all parts of the globe would gladly try their fortune with such
prospects, I leave to you, reader, to determine.
As I am not disposed too highly to color the picture which I am about to
submit to your inspection, instead of pitching on individuals who have
removed from our eastern boundaries, and of whom certainly there are a
good number, I shall introduce to you the members of a family from
Virginia, first giving you an idea of their condition in that country,
previous to their migration to the west. The land which they and their
ancestors have possessed for a hundred years, having been constantly
forced to produce crops of one kind or another, is now completely worn
out. It exhibits only a superficial layer of red clay, cut up by deep
ravines, through which much of the soil has been conveyed to some more
fortunate neighbor, residing in a yet rich and beautiful valley. Their
strenuous efforts to render it productive have failed. They dispose of
everything too cumbrous or expensive for them to remove, retaining only
a few horses, a servant or two, and such implements of husbandry and
other articles as may be necessary on their journey, or useful when they
arrive at the spot of their choice.
I think I see them at this moment harnessing their horses, and attaching
them to their wagons, which are already filled with bedding, provisions,
and the younger children, while on their outside are fastened
spinning-wheels and looms, and a bucket filled with tar and tallow
swings between the hind wheels. Several axes are secured to the bolster,
and the feeding-trough of the horses contains pots, kettles, and pans.
The servant, now become a driver, rides the near saddled horse, the wife
is mounted on another, the worthy husband shoulders his gun, and his
sons, clad in plain substantial homespun, drive the cattle ahead, and
lead the procession, followed by the hounds and other dogs. Their day's
journey is short, and not agreeable; the cattle, stubborn or wild,
frequently leave the road for the woods, giving the travellers much
trouble; the harness of the horses here and there gives way, and needs
immediate repair; a basket, which has accidentally dropped, must be gone
after, for nothing that they have can be spared; the roads are bad, and
now and then all hands are called to push on the wagon, or prevent it
from upsetting. Yet by sunset they have proceeded perhaps twenty miles.
Rather fatigued, all assemble round the fire, which has been lighted,
supper is prepared, and a camp being erected, there they pass the night.
Days and weeks, nay months, of unremitting toil, pass before they gain
the end of their journey. They have crossed both the Carolinas, Georgia,
and Alabama. They have been travelling from the beginning of May to that
of September, and with heavy hearts they traverse the State of
Mississippi. But now, arrived on the banks of the broad stream, they
gaze in amazement on the dark deep woods around them. Boats of various
kinds they see gliding downwards with the current, while others slowly
ascend against it. A few inquiries are made at the nearest dwelling, and
assisted by the inhabitants with their boats, and canoes, they at once
cross the Mississippi, and select their place of habitation.
The exhalations arising from the swamps and morasses around them have a
powerful effect on these new settlers, but all are intent on preparing
for the winter. A small patch of ground is cleared by the axe and the
fire, a temporary cabin is erected, to each of the cattle is attached a
jingling bell before it is let loose into the neighboring cane-brake,
and the horses remain about the house, where they find sufficient food
at that season. The first trading-boat that stops at their landing,
enables them to provide themselves with some flour, fish-hooks, and
ammunition, as well as other commodities. The looms are mounted, the
spinning-wheels soon furnish some yarn, and in a few weeks the family
throw off their ragged clothes, and array themselves in suits adapted to
the climate. The father and sons meanwhile have sown turnips and other
vegetables; and from some Kentucky flatboat, a supply of live poultry
has been procured.
October tinges the leaves of the forest, the morning dews are heavy, the
days hot, the nights chill, and the unacclimated family in a few days
are attacked with ague. The lingering disease almost prostrates their
whole faculties, and one seeing them at such a period might well call
them sallow and sickly. Fortunately the unhealthy season soon passes
over, and the hoar-frosts make their appearance. Gradually each
individual recovers strength. The largest ash-trees are felled; their
trunks are cut, split, and corded in front of the building; a large fire
is lighted at night on the edge of the water, and soon a steamer calls
to purchase the wood, and thus add to their comforts during the winter.
The first fruit of their industry imparts new courage to them; their
exertions multiply, and when spring returns, the place has a cheerful
look. Venison, Bear's-flesh, Wild Turkeys, Ducks and Geese, with now and
then some fish, have served to keep up their strength, and now their
enlarged field is planted with corn, potatoes, and pumpkins. Their stock
of cattle, too, has augmented; the steamer, which now stops there as if
by preference, buys a calf or a pig, together with the whole of their
wood. Their store of provisions is renewed, and brighter rays of hope
enliven their spirits.
Who is he of the settlers on the Mississippi that cannot realize some
profit? Truly none who is industrious. When the autumnal months return,
all are better prepared to encounter the ague which then prevails.
Substantial food, suitable clothing, and abundant firing, repel its
attacks; and before another twelvemonth has elapsed the family is
naturalized. The sons have by this time discovered a swamp covered with
excellent timber, and as they have seen many great rafts of saw logs,
bound for the mills of New Orleans, floating past their dwelling, they
resolve to try the success of a little enterprise. Their industry and
prudence have already enhanced their credit. A few cross-saws are
purchased, and some broad-wheeled "carry-logs" are made by themselves.
Log after log, is hauled to the bank of the river, and in a short time
their first raft is made on the shore, and loaded with cord-wood. When
the next freshet sets it afloat, it is secured by long grape-vines or
cables, until the proper time being arrived, the husband and sons embark
on it, and float down the mighty stream.
After encountering many difficulties, they arrive in safety at New
Orleans, where they dispose of their stock, the money obtained for which
may be said to be all profit, supply themselves with such articles as
may add to their convenience or comfort, and with light hearts procure
a passage on the upper deck of a steamer, at a very cheap rate, on
account of the benefit of their labor in taking in wood or otherwise.
And now the vessel approaches their home. See the joyous mother and
daughters as they stand on the bank! A store of vegetables lies around
them, a large tub of fresh milk is at their feet, and in their hands are
plates, filled with rolls of butter. As the steamer stops, three broad
straw hats are waved from the upper deck, and soon husband and wife,
brothers and sisters, are in each other's embrace. The boat carries off
the provisions for which value has been left, and as the captain issues
his orders for putting on the steam, the happy family enter their humble
dwelling. The husband gives his bag of dollars to the wife, while the
sons present some token of affection to the sisters. Surely, at such a
moment, the squatters are richly repaid for all their labors.
Every successive year has increased their savings. They now possess a
large stock of horses, cows, and hogs, with abundance of provisions, and
domestic comfort of every kind. The daughters have been married to the
sons of neighboring squatters, and have gained sisters to themselves by
the marriage of their brothers. The government secures to the family the
lands on which, twenty years before, they settled in poverty and
sickness. Larger buildings are erected on piles, secure from the
inundations; where a single cabin once stood, a neat village is now to
be seen; warehouses, stores, and workshops increase the importance of
the place. The squatters live respected, and in due time die regretted
by all who knew them.
Thus are the vast frontiers of our country peopled, and thus does
cultivation, year after year, extend over the western wilds. Time will
no doubt be, when the great valley of the Mississippi, still covered
with primeval forests interspersed with swamps, will smile with
corn-fields and orchards, while crowded cities will rise at intervals
along its banks, and enlightened nations will rejoice in the bounties of
Providence.
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE NAVIGATION OF THE MISSISSIPPI
I have so frequently spoken of the Mississippi that an account of the
progress of navigation on that extraordinary stream may be interesting
even to the student of nature. I shall commence with the year 1808, at
which time a great portion of the western country, and the banks of the
Mississippi River, from above the city of Natchez particularly, were
little more than a waste, or to use words better suited to my feelings,
remained in their natural state. To ascend the great stream against a
powerful current, rendered still stronger wherever islands occurred,
together with the thousands of sand-banks, as liable to changes and
shiftings as the alluvial shores themselves, which at every deep curve
or _bend_ were seen giving way, as if crushed down by the weight of the
great forests that everywhere reached to the very edge of the water, and
falling and sinking in the muddy stream by acres at a time, was an
adventure of no small difficulty and risk, and which was rendered more
so by the innumerable logs, called _sawyers_ and _planters_, that
everywhere raised their heads above the water, as if bidding defiance to
all intruders. Few white inhabitants had yet marched towards its shores,
and these few were of a class little able to assist the navigator. Here
and there a solitary encampment of native Indians might be seen, but its
inmates were as likely to prove foes as friends, having from their birth
been made keenly sensible of the encroachments of the white men upon
their lands.
Such was then the nature of the Mississippi and its shores. That river
was navigated, principally in the direction of the current, in small
canoes, pirogues, keel-boats, some flatboats, and a few barges. The
canoes and pirogues, being generally laden with furs from the different
heads of streams that feed the great river, were of little worth after
reaching the market of New Orleans, and seldom reascended, the owners
making their way home through the woods, amidst innumerable
difficulties. The flatboats were demolished and used as fire-wood. The
keel-boats and barges were employed in conveying produce of different
kinds besides furs, such as lead, flour, pork, and other articles. These
returned laden with sugar, coffee, and dry goods suited for the markets
of St. Genevieve and St. Louis on the upper Mississippi, or branched off
and ascended the Ohio to the foot of the Falls near Louisville in
Kentucky. But, reader, follow their movements, and judge for yourself of
the fatigues, troubles, and risks of the men employed in that
navigation. A keel-boat was generally manned by ten hands, principally
Canadian French, and a patroon or master. These boats seldom carried
more than from twenty to thirty tons. The barges frequently had forty or
fifty men, with a patroon, and carried fifty or sixty tons. Both these
kinds of vessels were provided with a mast, a square sail, and coils of
cordage known by the name of _cordelles_. Each boat or barge carried its
own provisions. We shall suppose one of these boats under way, and,
having passed Natchez, entering upon what were the difficulties of their
ascent. Wherever a point projected, so as to render the course or bend
below it of some magnitude, there was an eddy, the returning current of
which was sometimes as strong as that of the middle of the great stream.
The bargemen therefore rowed up pretty close under the bank, and had
merely to keep watch in the bow, lest the boat should run against a
planter or sawyer. But the boat has reached the point, and there the
current is to all appearance of double strength, and right against it.
The men, who have all rested a few minutes, are ordered to take their
stations, and lay hold of their oars, for the river must be crossed, it
being seldom possible to double such a point, and proceed along the same
shore. The boat is crossing, its head slanting to the current, which is,
however, too strong for the rowers, and when the other side of the river
has been reached, it has drifted perhaps a quarter of a mile. The men
are by this time exhausted, and, as we shall suppose it to be twelve
o'clock, fasten the boat to the shore or to a tree. A small glass of
whiskey is given to each, when they cook and eat their dinner, and after
repairing their fatigue by an hour's repose, recommence their labors.
The boat is again seen slowly advancing against the stream. It has
reached the lower end of a large sand-bar, along the edge of which it is
propelled by means of long poles, if the bottom be hard. Two men called
bowsmen remain at the prow, to assist, in concert with the steersman, in
managing the boat, and keeping its head right against the current. The
rest place themselves on the land side of the footway of the vessel, put
one end of their poles on the ground, the other against their shoulders,
and push with all their might. As each of the men reaches the stern, he
crosses to the other side, runs along it, and comes again to the
landward side of the bow, when he recommences operations. The barge in
the meantime is ascending at a rate not exceeding one mile in the hour.
The bar is at length passed, and as the shore in sight is straight on
both sides of the river, and the current uniformly strong, the poles are
laid aside, and the men being equally divided, those on the river side
take to their oars, whilst those on the land side lay hold of the
branches of willows, or other trees, and thus slowly propel the boat.
Here and there however, the trunk of a fallen tree, partly lying on the
bank, and partly projecting beyond it, impedes their progress, and
requires to be doubled. This is performed by striking it with the iron
points of the poles and gaff-hooks. The sun is now quite low, and the
barge is again secured in the best harbor within reach. The navigators
cook their supper, and betake themselves to their blankets or Bear skins
to rest, or perhaps light a large fire on the shore, under the smoke of
which they repose, in order to avoid the persecutions of the myriads of
mosquitoes which are found along the river during the whole summer.
Perhaps, from dawn to sunset, the boat may have advanced fifteen miles.
If so, it has done well. The next day, the wind proves favorable, the
sail is set, the boat takes all advantages, and meeting with no
accident, has ascended thirty miles, perhaps double that distance. The
next day comes with a very different aspect. The wind is right ahead,
the shores are without trees of any kind, and the canes on the bank are
so thick and stout that not even the cordelles can be used. This
occasions a halt. The time is not altogether lost, as most of the men,
being provided with rifles, betake themselves to the woods, and search
for the Deer, the Bears, or the Turkeys that are generally abundant
there. Three days may pass before the wind changes, and the advantages
gained on the previous fine day are forgotten. Again the boat proceeds,
but in passing over a shallow place, runs on a log, swings with the
current, but hangs fast, with her lee side almost under water. Now for
the poles! All hands are on deck, bustling and pushing. At length,
towards sunset, the boat is once more afloat, and is again taken to the
shore, where the wearied crew pass another night.
I shall not continue this account of difficulties, it having already
become painful in the extreme. I could tell you of the crew abandoning
the boat and cargo, and of numberless accidents and perils; but be it
enough to say that advancing in this tardy manner, the boat that left
New Orleans on the first of March often did not reach the Falls of the
Ohio until the month of July,--nay, sometimes not until October; and
after all this immense trouble, it brought only a few bags of coffee,
and at most one hundred hogsheads of sugar. Such was the state of things
in 1808. The number of barges at that period did not amount to more than
twenty-five or thirty, and the largest probably did not exceed one
hundred tons burden. To make the best of this fatiguing navigation, I
may conclude by saying that a barge which came up in three months had
done wonders, for, I believe, few voyages were performed in that time.
If I am not mistaken, the first steamboat that went down out of the Ohio
to New Orleans was named the "Orleans," and, if I remember right, was
commanded by Captain Ogden. This voyage, I believe, was performed in the
spring of 1810. It was, as you may suppose, looked upon as the _ne plus
ultra_ of enterprise. Soon after, another vessel came from Pittsburgh,
and before many years elapsed, to see a vessel so propelled had become a
common occurrence. In 1826, after a lapse of time that proved sufficient
to double the population of the United States of America, the navigation
of the Mississippi had so improved, both in respect to facility and
quickness, that I know no better way of giving you an idea of it than by
presenting you with an extract from a letter written by my eldest son,
which was taken from the books of N. Berthoud, Esq., with whom he at
that time resided.
"You ask me in your last letter for a list of the arrivals and
departures here. I give you an abstract from our list of 1826, showing
the number of boats which plied each year, their tonnage, the trips they
performed, and the quantity of goods landed here from New Orleans and
intermediate places:--
Boats. Tons. Trips. Tons.
1823, from Jan. 1 to Dec. 31, 42 7860 98 19,453
1824, " " " Nov. 25, 36 6393 118 20,291
1825, " " " Aug. 15, 42 7484 140 24,102
1826, " " " Dec. 31, 51 9386 182 28,914
The amount for the present year will be much greater than any of the
above. The number of flatboats and keel-boats is beyond calculation. The
number of steamboats above the Falls I cannot say much about, except
that one or two arrive at and leave Louisville every day. Their passage
from Cincinnati is commonly fourteen or sixteen hours. The "Tecumseh," a
boat which runs between this place and New Orleans, which is of 210
tons, arrived here on the 10th inst. in nine days, seven hours, from
port to port; and the "Philadelphia," of 300 tons, made the passage in
nine days, nine and a half hours, the computed distance being 1650
miles. These are the quickest trips made. There are now in operation on
the waters west of the Alleghany Mountains 140 or 150 boats. We had last
spring (1826) a very high freshet, which came four and a half feet deep
in the counting-room. The rise was 57 feet 3 inches perpendicular."
All the steamboats of which this is an account did not perform voyages
to New Orleans only, but to all points on the Mississippi, and other
rivers which fall into it. I am certain that since the above date the
number has increased, but to what extent I cannot at present say.
When steamboats first plied between Shippingport and New Orleans, the
cabin passage was a hundred dollars, and a hundred and fifty dollars on
the upward voyage. In 1829, I went down to Natchez from Shippingport for
twenty-five dollars, and ascended from New Orleans on board the
"Philadelphia," in the beginning of January, 1830, for sixty dollars,
having taken two state-rooms for my wife and myself. On that voyage we
met with a trifling accident, which protracted it to fourteen days, the
computed distance being, as mentioned above, 1650 miles, although the
real distance is probably less. I do not remember to have spent a day
without meeting with a steamboat, and some days we met several. I might
here be tempted to give you a description of one of these steamers of
the western waters, but the picture having been often drawn by abler
hands, I shall desist.
KENTUCKY SPORTS
It may not be amiss, kind reader, before I attempt to give you some idea
of the pleasures experienced by the sportsmen of Kentucky, to introduce
the subject with a slight description of that State.